Issue with LED Headlights and high beam indicator - Solved

[Blitzboy54]

I have tested every electrical component on my car multiple times and everything has worked just fine (which is obviously good news). With the standard FFR headlights they turn on like they should and when I engage the high beams the blue indicator light I installed works like it should. When I turn them off the indicator turns off right away again like normal.

I recently decided to upgrade to LED headlights. I am using these (same as several other builders)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B376YOE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


When you install the LED headlights the high beams come on and the indicator lights up as normal. The issue is when you shut off the high beams the lights turn down but the indicator stays lit for close to 10 seconds. It then will rather slowly fade off instead of shutting off like normal.

To me this says there is capacitance stored in the headlight. What I am asking the electrical experts on the board (lookin at you Papa) is what can be done about it. Is it safe to assume that voltage is leaking back to the indicator? Would a diode fix it? I can provide a sketch of how it's wired but it's nothing to fancy. I believe with the switch is activated I am simply running the 12 volts through the indicator on it's way to the headlight.

Anyone else see this?

[edwardb]

A schematic of how you wired the indicator lights would be helpful. I've done LED headlights on a Roadster and now the Truck with an LED indicator. The LED switches on and off as quickly as I flip the switch in both cases. Agree could be unique to the particular lights you used. But would be good to see how it's wired. You describe the LED is wired "through the indicator." That suggests it's wired in series? It should be in parallel. The positive lead of the LED on the same wire as the +12V high beam lead to the headlight. Typically connected right at the switch. The other side of the LED to ground. It would be powered in parallel with the high beams. This is BTW, how it's shown on the RF schematic if you're using their harness.

[Blitzboy54]

All terrific points Paul. I went back through my notes. I definitely followed the schematic and based on the pictures I found it looks like I did what the RF manual shows. The big difference is I used a push button vs a toggle so I need to get under there and double check how I put it together. I have the body on now so it went from a 2 to a 8 out of ten on the easy to check scale.

This is a good place for me to start. I’ll sketch something out when confirmed and update it.

Thanks

[nucjd19]

Hey Blitz. I have not noticed this but I will double check tomorrow when I get home from work and have my wife kick them to high and back to low and see how they function. I am using the toggle switch that came with the kit.

[FF33rod]

FWIW, I seem to have the same issue on the hot rod. I don't really drive the '33 at night so it took awhile to notice. When you flip back to low beam, the blue high beam indicator stays lit very faintly so it's difficult to notice during the day as you test things. Was thinking of trying to figure this out over the winter but will definitely follow this thread. I have the standard FFR LED lights.

Steve

[edwardb]

Thought about his after my first post and realized that other than my first build with the often used latching Bosch style relay on the low/high beams, I've used an electronic modules for my switching. The no longer available American Autowire module on three builds and the currently available ididit 3100006040 High Beam/Low Beam Switching Relay on my Truck build. Which I highly recommend. Solves all the wiring complexity and issues when trying to use relays and works perfectly. Perhaps these modules are isolating the voltage from the LED indicator which is why I haven't experienced any latent indicator lighting. Including with the truck which I've tested in the dark. It goes immediately completely out when the high beams are switch off. That's with the kit supplied LED headlights.

[Blitzboy54]

I did a little testing last night and I think a relay might be the answer. I'll update when I have played with it some more.

I think I am going to re purpose the fuel pump relay since I’m not using it for anything

[Blitzboy54]

So a relay is the answer. LED headlights are manufactured they have a capacitive element that causes the signal issue I was having. For the record I am wired up exactly as the RF harness and schematic shows. There is a brown signal wire that runs in series with the switch. I suspect if my indicator was incandescent it wouldn’t happen but LED with LED creates noise.

So here was my solution. I have a sniper so I used the Holley relay that came with it. I also re wired the inertia switch to shutoff the Holley pump should it be activated so I had an unused fuel relay.

I cut the brown HB signal wire and ran incoming voltage side to the relay switch and the out going 12V that would have fed the fuel pump back to the indicator. This works and the nice part is I already had everything I needed.


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