Coyote Engine mounts...

[ClemsonS197]

What slot did you guys mount the Coyote in, in your Mk4? This is the drivers side mount (front of the car to the left). Is this the correct slot for the proper header alignment when you guys start selling Coyote headers?

Also, I think I remember Dave Smith talking about doing a manifold and cats on PowerBlock a while back to make everything emissions compliant. Any news on that?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0011.jpg

[oldguy668]

You are using the correct slot, but I think you'll find need for a spacer on each side. I used Whitby's, and I think they are 3/8" thick. I just mounted my headers and pipes and they came out perfect just by enlarging the holes in the flanges to 7/16". My headers are stock FFR 2V modified and welded to the Coyote flanges AST Glenn makes. FFR is working on a set of shorties that will mate up with cats and J-pipes. They don't have any plans for 4 into 4's since most states require newly constructed vehicles like ours to be emissions compliant.

[ClemsonS197]

You are using the correct slot, but I think you'll find need for a spacer on each side. I used Whitby's, and I think they are 3/8" thick.

I should have a set of Whitby spacers in the mail. The lack of communication has been frustrating.


FFR is working on a set of shorties that will mate up with cats and J-pipes. They don't have any plans for 4 into 4's since most states require newly constructed vehicles like ours to be emissions compliant.

Interesting....

[ironman16nc]

Along this same line of engine mounts...
I just this weekend tried to set a 4.6L SOHC into a MK3. From what I've read, the Coyote engine is a later model with some significant mods but maybe the engine mounts are essentually the same. I have some issues. The top set of holes sets the engine sitting on the motor mount threads with the pads not making contact with the frame - no good. So I made some spacer: 4x 1/8" on each side seemed to be about right, but then the j-pipe on the driver side exhause would not clear the steering column shaft and caused it to bind. So I figured the spacers were making the engine ride too high. After a hell of a lot of effort, I managed to get the driver side in to the lower holes. Had to dismantle and re-assemble the passenger side motor mount in place to make this work. The passenger pad is making full contact but the driver side only has the top of the pad making contact with the frame - plus the transmission will not align with the a-frame slots. I'm thinking the 3/8" spacers on essential? Anybody have experience with a 4.6L?

[ironman16nc]

UPDATE: I lifted the engine out of the lower holes because that was obviously not right. Using 3/8" spacers on each side it sits pretty well on the engine mounts in the correct holes and the transmission lines up on the A-frame slots. BUT - I still have a problem witht he stock exhaust manifold binding on the steering shaft. See pic. Anyone else have success with the stock manifolds? Is the easy answer to this the headers for the 4.6L?
https://factoryfiveparts.com/product.php?productid=16139&cat=257&page=1
6151

[ClemsonS197]

UPDATE: I lifted the engine out of the lower holes because that was obviously not right. Using 3/8" spacers on each side it sits pretty well on the engine mounts in the correct holes and the transmission lines up on the A-frame slots. BUT - I still have a problem witht he stock exhaust manifold binding on the steering shaft. See pic. Anyone else have success with the stock manifolds? Is the easy answer to this the headers for the 4.6L?
https://factoryfiveparts.com/product.php?productid=16139&cat=257&page=1
6151

Is the trans mount where it needs to be? Raising the rear of the trans could be enough to clear the shaft. Also, see if you can slide the steering shaft pivot up just a tiny bit.

Dang! It seems every time I see the exhaust headers they get $50 more expensive. :mad:

[ironman16nc]

The steering shaft pivot is carved in stone - no way to move that. But I just jacked up the trans by 3/4" and that seems to just clear the shaft. I might grind down a flat spot on the manifold just to make sure it's got some additional clearance but that seems to do the trick. I just need to shim up the transmission on the A-frame with some 3/4" square stock. THANKS!!!! Great thought!