Transmission Cover Questions

[edwardb]

Included these two questions in my most recent build update. But so far no responses. Really like to hear what others have done. Would be the same for the Truck or the Hot Rod.

1. What are you doing with the cable harnesses that go through the transmission tunnel above the transmission? There are a number (main power, rear harness, transmission controller, vent, etc.) that logically have to go between the transmission main body and the fiberglass cover. Is it a problem if they rest on top of the transmission? An automatic in my case. Or did you figure out some way to attach them to the underside of the cover so they’re not touching the transmission? If so, what have you done to accomplish that? Please don’t tell me to route them elsewhere, e.g. underneath on the chassis. Way too late for that.

2. Speaking of the cover, I go back and forth on whether I want it removable or not. I can't find this addressed anywhere in the manual. Ideally, would be best to be removable, I guess. But planning full insulation and carpeting, and not necessarily ideal to have that stuff removable. At least how I like to do it. There is the center top fill piece that could be made removable. Don’t know if that would really help and the same issue(s) with making it look decent. One option would be making the custom console I’m thinking about go all the way to under the dash. That could be a solution for question 1 too. But again, still TBD. Wondering what others have done.

Thanks in advance.

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy!
Following your points:
1) My cable routing is in the don’t mention it category…

2) I made the trans tunnel removable as a complete entity. I got disgusted with the squared off tail section and removed it entirely from the tunnel. I don’t see what purpose it serves anyways…and it makes install/removal far easier. I plopped some rivnuts into the floor panels and use 1/4” x 20 screws with quarter (plus) sized flat washers to hold it in place.

3) Used velcro in a few places to retain the edges of the carpet.
Cheers,
Pat

[progmgr1]

Paul,

I hesitated to respond since I'm building a Gen 1 Hot Rod and the path I'm following may not be available to Gen 2 builders. Specifically, I'm running the cables down the side of my auto transmission and then between the upper and lower frame rails. The cables then go through a race that I fabricated from 1.5" angle iron that is bolted to the lower frame rails front and back.

Sorry for the crappy photos. My wonky back didn't permit me much time under the car this week. Note that the corrugated tubing is what I use to mock up cable routing and define anchor points.

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The other thing I'm doing differently from most is that I'm building the car with everything removeable, at least for now. My plan is to complete the car through go kart and bodywork, then tear it all apart and have the chassis powder coated while the body is being painted. This translates to having very few rivets in the build - only used for attaching parts that stay mounted through powder coating. Everything else is self-tapping screws or threaded fasteners. I think that the final trans tunnel attachment will be with screws hidden under the carpet, but that's years away from now.

HTH Keith HR #894 (aka the eternal project)

[Sbda4]

I made the trans tunnel of my 35 truck removable. I installed 3 large grommets into the top front of the trans tunnel, then cut the section with the grommets out and bolted it to the firewall tubing. That enables me to keep the harnesses on the chassis and still be able to remove the trans tunnel. I routed the rear harness down beside the transmission under the drivers side floor so it stays with the chassis. It continues over the trans mount and into the trans tunnel on the floor on the drivers side corner of the tunnel.

The tunnel is bolted to the firewall and floor with button head fasteners and rivnuts. When I installed sound deadening mat, I kept it separate on the floor and the trans tunnel. The floor carpet covers the bottom flange of the trans tunnel and bolts, so I would have to pull back the carpet to remove the trans tunnel.

[progmgr1]

I like that idea. I may have to adapt (steal) it for my build. Thanks for sharing your design.
Keith HR #894

[Prslegmaker]

I covered my transmission tunnel with graphite and Epoxy resin. Recoated several times until i had a smooth ultra gloss finish. I then drilled holes through the floor and installed 1/4-20 rivnuts in so I could bolt it in place. I used stainless bolts for the floor and then added black button 1/4-20 on the top cover so it could be easily removable. Needless to say, I have no intention of installing the carpeting over it

[Ted G]

Mine is removable and is secured with only the four screws on the ring around the shifter. I covered the trans tunnel in leather and had to make additional surfaces with sheet aluminum so all four screws attached to something underneath. I also have a lower dash and thus cut the trans cover shorter to accommodate removal without removing the lower dash. Super clean look IMO.

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[mkassab]

Paul,

I do not plan to have the trans tunnel removeable easily. I ran my wiring in wire loom and insulated the loom along the side of the trans (less heat vs the top I believe?) I'll also build a full length console, so the tunnel top can be removed easily.

I'm still building as you're aware, and will post pictures soon on my build page.

Let us know how you proceed.

Mark