Sniper and Holley Fuel pump wiring issue

[NA5KAR]

Hi Guys. This thread is a follow up to one I posted a couple weeks ago. The issue is that the engine will start, and run for about 2 minutes. Then it quits. I'm going to send an email to Blueprint for answers, but I figured that somebody here might have an answer to my problem. I posted a Youtube video (link below) showing the wiring of the fuel pump relay. The Sniper 7 pin wire harness is the focus. The Sniper Quickstart Manual has a system installation overview, but it does not show the thin Blue wire coming out of the 7 pin connector. On a previous page, the list of wires coming out of the 7 pin connector mentions 'Pin C - Blue - Fuel Pump Output (+) +12V Fuel Pump Supply from Relay'. The only Blue wire from the 7 pin says 'Fuel Pump Output (-)'. I have a picture attached.

My understanding of the functionality of a relay is that the trigger +12V Pink wire (pin 86), when energized (key on), connects to the Ground (pin 85) and closes the connection between the Red wire (Pin 87), Battery 12V, and The thick Blue wire (pin 30) Hot to positive on the fuel pump. That's not possible when the thin Blue wire (pin 85) has +12v. What am I missing?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFUtHCchb_Y

153755

[i.e.427]

Pull the relay. With it connected, you're reading through the coil of the relay and seeing 12V. Are you direct feeding the pump from the Sniper? If so the inertia switch is useless.

[michael everson]

Not sure what any of this has to do with it dying.
Mike

[NA5KAR]

Pull the relay. With it connected, you're reading through the coil of the relay and seeing 12V. Are you direct feeding the pump from the Sniper? If so the inertia switch is useless.

I appreciate the response. I accept that I'm reading +12V on the blue wire through the relay. Then, why do I not read +12V on the Fuel pump Blue wire (pin 30)? My only guess is that I have a bad relay. As for the inertia switch, I ran the fuel pump ground through the inertia switch. When the fuel pump does occasionally work with the key in the on position, if I disconnect the inertia switch, the fuel pump will not come on. Following your suggestion, the next step is to remove the relay and turn the key to on. I'll measure the voltage at the thin blue wire (if any). I can also replace the relay and see if that is an issue. Thanks again.

Dan

[Papa]

Are you using the RF relay? If so, you know that the Sniper blue fuel pump control is the output of a relay in the Sniper harness. I'm not using the RF harness relays for the fuel pump circuit at all.

[NA5KAR]

Are you using the RF relay? If so, you know that the Sniper blue fuel pump control is the output of a relay in the Sniper harness. I'm not using the RF harness relays for the fuel pump circuit at all.

Thanks Dave. I'm not using the RF harness either for the fuel pump. The Sniper came with the harness, which included the relay and the fuse. I just did another video based on the comments by i.e.427. It was enlightening. Actually, more confusing. Thanks again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zFpHeuqOPw

[FF33rod]

You are correct, the light blue wire coming out of the Sniper should go to ground to turn the relay on which provides +12V to the fuel pump.
If it is not going to ground properly then one possibility is that a good ground is not being provided to the sniper.
Maybe measure the resistance from the chassis (or negative battery post) to the Black wire in the 7 pin. Also check both sides of the 7 pin to make sure connectors aren't bent up.

Steve

[NA5KAR]

You are correct, the light blue wire coming out of the Sniper should go to ground to turn the relay on which provides +12V to the fuel pump.
If it is not going to ground properly then one possibility is that a good ground is not being provided to the sniper.
Maybe measure the resistance from the chassis (or negative battery post) to the Black wire in the 7 pin. Also check both sides of the 7 pin to make sure connectors aren't bent up.

Steve

Thanks Steve. That's a great observation. I'll test it tomorrow morning and let you know what I find.

[Norm B]

I believe the Sniper only switches the fuel pump on for 5 seconds after key on then again once rotation is sensed. If you try to measure the ground signal at any other time it won’t be there. I will do a search to confirm.

Norm

[i.e.427]

If I understand how you say you've wired this.
1-Sniper B+ out of relay direct to fuel pump.
2-Holley main ECU B- direct to battery?
3-Fuel pump B- wired through the inertia switch?

If this is the case, you've tried to pull 15 amps worth of ground through an 18 gauge wire all the way to the back of the car then back to behind the dash ground? I don't know how you managed to supply ground through the inertia switch relay to the back of the car when it's designed by Ron Francis to supply a 12v B+. Please explain.

[Papa]

The only ground "signal" in the typical Sniper wiring is the fan control. The fuel pump control is +12v out of the Sniper relay.

7-Pin connector:
Sniper red goes to battery +
Sniper black goes to battery -
Sniper pink goes to switched +12v (RF orange coil for example)
Sniper blue goes to fuel pump +
Sniper yellow goes to coil (-) ... (depending on ignition type)


10-pin connector:
Sniper light blue goes to RF green fan thermo control

Depending on what type of ignition you have, the wiring will vary. What I described above it how I did mine with a standard old fashioned coil setup.

[NA5KAR]

If I understand how you say you've wired this.
1-Sniper B+ out of relay direct to fuel pump.
2-Holley main ECU B- direct to battery?
3-Fuel pump B- wired through the inertia switch?

If this is the case, you've tried to pull 15 amps worth of ground through an 18 gauge wire all the way to the back of the car then back to behind the dash ground? I don't know how you managed to supply ground through the inertia switch relay to the back of the car when it's designed by Ron Francis to supply a 12v B+. Please explain.

i.e.427, I appreciate your diagnosis. I don't recall where I read it, but either on this forum, in the Blueprint FAQ, or somewhere else, I read that I could run the fuel pump ground through the inertia switch so that if the inertia switch was activated, it would turn off the fuel pump. It does function that way now by disconnecting the wiring plug into the switch. However, after reading your analysis, I will retrace my wiring to verify the ground source, routing, and wire gauge. I will report back here later. Thanks for the heads up.

[NA5KAR]

The only ground "signal" in the typical Sniper wiring is the fan control. The fuel pump control is +12v out of the Sniper relay.

7-Pin connector:
Sniper red goes to battery +
Sniper black goes to battery -
Sniper pink goes to switched +12v (RF orange coil for example)
Sniper blue goes to fuel pump +
Sniper yellow goes to coil (-) ... (depending on ignition type)


10-pin connector:
Sniper light blue goes to RF green fan thermo control

Depending on what type of ignition you have, the wiring will vary. What I described above it how I did mine with a standard old fashioned coil setup.

Thanks Dave. Starting with the 10 pin ... I did use the light blue wire to run the fan and it works perfectly. For the 7 pin connector, I have the Quick Start manual that came with the engine from Blueprint, page 8 (description of pin functions), and page 14 (visual wire diagram) pictures below. I also have a pic of the actual wires coming from the 7 pin. The page 8 pin function list matches what you wrote above. However, the actual thin blue wire coming from the 7 pin (picture below) has a (-) printed on it. Also, it is the wire going to the 85 position on the relay. So, if the pink wire at relay position 86 is Switched Power (connected to Choke), then the blue wire at position 85 on the relay 'must be' Ground in order for the relay to work. FYI, if you look at the pic below of the wire diagram, the blue wire from the 7 pin is not even pictured. There are only 6 wires coming out of the 7 pin connector.

A friend that came over to help me figure this out, looked up blog posts on the Holley website. Apparently, this is a common problem and the Holley techs know about it. They have even stated that the manual is wrong but they have not changed it yet.

So, my buddy said that I should go to the Sniper side of the 7 pin connector and locate the thin blue wire. I should cut it and see if the Sniper is sending Ground out of that wire or if there is voltage. If it is Ground, I should bypass the 7 pin and run that wire directly to the pin 85 on the fuel pump relay. Thoughts? Thanks.




153801153802153803

[weendoggy]

I'm not a proponent of running either full ground or bat + through the inertia switch (although Ford did) so I use it for the "trigger" wire and usually on the ground side. That being said, the small blue wire from the Sniper would go through the inertia switch and on to the FP relay. The Sniper is providing the ground for the relay to connect. From your video's if all is connected correctly, it should work, although you have no complete circuit between #30 and #87. The pink wire is going to either #86 or #85 and the small blue to the opposite one. I would check all the Sniper wiring and insure you have good grounds. Not only from the Sniper to the battery, but also the battery to engine, battery to chassis and engine block to ground and also put a test jumper ground between the Sniper base (use the stud) and ground. I attached a drawing (using a CD Box and DS distributor) but the wiring for the FP relay is the same. The green/blk is the same as the small blue wire coming from the Sniper where I have it go through the inertia switch.

All this being said, you have an issue that can be fixed, but with all EFI's the grounds and power and wiring is the most important part. Also, I'm assuming you put a tune in the Sniper.

153807

[Papa]

Thanks Dave. Starting with the 10 pin ... I did use the light blue wire to run the fan and it works perfectly. For the 7 pin connector, I have the Quick Start manual that came with the engine from Blueprint, page 8 (description of pin functions), and page 14 (visual wire diagram) pictures below. I also have a pic of the actual wires coming from the 7 pin. The page 8 pin function list matches what you wrote above. However, the actual thin blue wire coming from the 7 pin (picture below) has a (-) printed on it. Also, it is the wire going to the 85 position on the relay. So, if the pink wire at relay position 86 is Switched Power (connected to Choke), then the blue wire at position 85 on the relay 'must be' Ground in order for the relay to work. FYI, if you look at the pic below of the wire diagram, the blue wire from the 7 pin is not even pictured. There are only 6 wires coming out of the 7 pin connector.

A friend that came over to help me figure this out, looked up blog posts on the Holley website. Apparently, this is a common problem and the Holley techs know about it. They have even stated that the manual is wrong but they have not changed it yet.

So, my buddy said that I should go to the Sniper side of the 7 pin connector and locate the thin blue wire. I should cut it and see if the Sniper is sending Ground out of that wire or if there is voltage. If it is Ground, I should bypass the 7 pin and run that wire directly to the pin 85 on the fuel pump relay. Thoughts? Thanks.




153801153802153803

Yes, the ECU side of the connector does use a (-) to control the relay in the Sniper harness. I don't recommend messing with any of the wiring on the ECU side of the harness, although you certainly can if you wish.

[Norm B]

When I upgraded to the Sniper system I kept the existing fuel pump wiring and relay. I opened the harness between the Sniper unit and plugs. The Sniper fuel pump relay was removed and the small blue wire that comes out of the Sniper to their relay was run to the ground side of the trigger circuit for the fuel pump relay in my existing wire harness. I put a switch in this ground trigger circuit for maintenance and security purposes.
If using the Ron Francis harness then your inertial switch will also be in this circuit.

Norm

[NA5KAR]

I'm not a proponent of running either full ground or bat + through the inertia switch (although Ford did) so I use it for the "trigger" wire and usually on the ground side. That being said, the small blue wire from the Sniper would go through the inertia switch and on to the FP relay. The Sniper is providing the ground for the relay to connect. From your video's if all is connected correctly, it should work, although you have no complete circuit between #30 and #87. The pink wire is going to either #86 or #85 and the small blue to the opposite one. I would check all the Sniper wiring and insure you have good grounds. Not only from the Sniper to the battery, but also the battery to engine, battery to chassis and engine block to ground and also put a test jumper ground between the Sniper base (use the stud) and ground. I attached a drawing (using a CD Box and DS distributor) but the wiring for the FP relay is the same. The green/blk is the same as the small blue wire coming from the Sniper where I have it go through the inertia switch.

All this being said, you have an issue that can be fixed, but with all EFI's the grounds and power and wiring is the most important part. Also, I'm assuming you put a tune in the Sniper.

153807

Thanks a million for this explanation. After verifying that everything is well grounded, I will reroute the thin blue wire through the inertia switch and back to the FP relay 86 pin. I suspect that I'll find some lack of grounding going to the Sniper. I'll be in the garage in a couple of hours and start my search.

[NA5KAR]

Yes, the ECU side of the connector does use a (-) to control the relay in the Sniper harness. I don't recommend messing with any of the wiring on the ECU side of the harness, although you certainly can if you wish.

Thanks again Dave. I really don't want to mess with the Sniper side of the wiring connectors. Weendoggy made it clear to ensure good ground all around, and I'll be looking for that later today.

[NA5KAR]

When I upgraded to the Sniper system I kept the existing fuel pump wiring and relay. I opened the harness between the Sniper unit and plugs. The Sniper fuel pump relay was removed and the small blue wire that comes out of the Sniper to their relay was run to the ground side of the trigger circuit for the fuel pump relay in my existing wire harness. I put a switch in this ground trigger circuit for maintenance and security purposes.
If using the Ron Francis harness then your inertial switch will also be in this circuit.

Norm

Thanks Norm. I've been thinking about adding a maintenance switch as well. Now would be a good time to do it.

[D Stand]

Here is how I did mine. I cut the inertia switch out and spliced it inline in the sniper light blue “fuel pump -“ wire. This is not documented in the sniper manual because you are not supposed to see or mess with it. This wire is a negative trigger from the ECU to the built in fuel pump relay supplied. The documented blue “fuel pump +” is the heavy gauge blue wire that is being switched via this relay. It sounds like you do have a grounding issue to look into. I believe my wiring diagram is explaining exactly what weendoggy is explaining. If you do make this adjustment with the inertia switch make sure you have a good ground connection to your fuel pump when done. Moving it here removes all of the fuel pump amperage through the switch as this is just a signal wire to the relay doing all of the work.

The only other suggestion is while testing in your videos you are only probing with the positive lead on the relay which the other to ground. This works for the positive terminals but that small blue wire is a switched ground and like others have stated this only triggers for a few seconds with only first click of ignition. In your second video once you put the relay back in and how that you have 12volt positive, you are actually reading the voltage from the pink wire through the coil of the relay. The reason for this is by the time you get to this step the sniper has opened the small blue wire. I would put the red lead on the pink and black lead on the small blue then turn the switch on. You should see a positive 12 volts on the meter then it will drop out. This will prove if you are grounded ok on the sniper. If not, start looking for loose connections at the 7 pin connector and lack of grounds to the sniper, engine, chassis, fuel pump…

[i.e.427]

For those of you that chose to wire outside of the F5R/Ron Francis recommended method, what exactly made you do it differently? Cause I can tell you, we've done a number of these with FiTech, Sniper and are in the process of wiring a Holley TerminatorX and I can see no advantage to cutting and spicing into the Sniper wiring. Well other than voiding any warranty. F5R makes it pretty easy. Splice the EFI fuel pump wire into the orange wire of the RF Harness at the fuse box and done.

[D Stand]

[QUOTE=i.e.427;469881]For those of you that chose to wire outside of the F5R/Ron Francis recommended method, what exactly made you do it differently? Cause I can tell you, we've done a number of these with FiTech, Sniper and are in the process of wiring a Holley TerminatorX and I can see no advantage to cutting and spicing into the Sniper wiring. Well other than voiding any warranty. F5R makes it pretty easy. Splice the EFI fuel pump wire into the orange wire of the RF Harness at the fuse box and done.[/QUOTE

So you splice the blue (+12V output of fuel pump relay)of sniper 7 pin to the orange (efi-coil) RF wiring? And that works?

[NA5KAR]

For those of you that chose to wire outside of the F5R/Ron Francis recommended method, what exactly made you do it differently? Cause I can tell you, we've done a number of these with FiTech, Sniper and are in the process of wiring a Holley TerminatorX and I can see no advantage to cutting and spicing into the Sniper wiring. Well other than voiding any warranty. F5R makes it pretty easy. Splice the EFI fuel pump wire into the orange wire of the RF Harness at the fuse box and done.

i.e.427, I have no desire to mess with the factory supplied wiring or harness. This all started because my engine keeps quitting. Looking for the cause. In my two videos, I show the results of my tests on the FP relay. Based on responses above, I need to re-test the relay wiring correctly to get the true result. Gonna do that tomorrow hopefully. I got a late start this afternoon, but here is what I accomplished. Using a Power Probe, I looked for Ground all around the car. I found strong Ground at every bolt and rivet. There was strong ground at the Sniper studs and other bolts on the Sniper body. A few weeks ago, I ran a dedicated 2 gauge ground wire directly from the battery to the engine block. It appears to be a good Ground for the whole engine. I tested the 7 pin G Black Battery Ground and it was correct. Next, I traced how I installed the Ground wire for the fuel pump. It came from the back of the car, though the transmission tunnel, and up behind the dashboard. It was connected to the inertia switch. I realized that I had a thicker FP Ground wire spliced to the thinner inertia switch wire, so I removed it. Tomorrow, I'll run the FP Ground wire to the frame just above the FP, which is right next to the battery ground wire on the frame. Once I do that, I'll 'correctly' test the FP relay. If all goes well, and with the blessing of Blueprint (hopefully they respond to my email), I'll run the thin blue wire from the Sniper 7 pin through the inertia switch and back to the 85 pin of the FP relay, as weendoggy suggested. Still not sure why I was seeing voltage on the thin blue wire, or how any of this can cause my engine to quit, but I'm gonna take these small bites of the elephant till I eat the whole thing.

[i.e.427]

So you splice the blue (+12V output of fuel pump relay)of sniper 7 pin to the orange (efi-coil) RF wiring? And that works?
Did you not receive a Factory 5 wiring guide inside the box for your Ron Francis chassis harness? I can look up the page if necessary but it says to splice the fuel pump wire from your EFI system [(Sniper in this case) blue wire] into the orange wire feeding the Ron Francis fuel pump relay. There are even pretty pictures showing you how. And yes, it's worked on a number of build even those we've done with the Ford Control Pack.

[Papa]

NA5KAR,

If the car was running, it was wired in a way that worked. So, what would cause it to die after a period of time? First thing that comes to mind is enrichment curve in the Sniper or other setting tied to coolant temperature perhaps. How much fuel is in the tank? In tank or external fuel pump? Have you done any data logging with the car running and at the time it dies? Does it start again after it dies and run for a couple of minutes? Does it start again after the car has cooled down? The inertia switch, as wired out of the box, gets a ground on one side and feeds the RF fuel pump relay on the other. If you wired the Sniper as I described, the inertia switch and the RF fuel pump relay play no part in the Sniper and it's control of the fuel pump. If you wire it the way I described and still want to use the inertia switch, you just need to run the fuel pump ground direct to the switch. I'm trying to follow what you are doing, and I'm confused about what you actually have wired at this point.

Dave

[D Stand]

Did you not receive a Factory 5 wiring guide inside the box for your Ron Francis chassis harness? I can look up the page if necessary but it says to splice the fuel pump wire from your EFI system [(Sniper in this case) blue wire] into the orange wire feeding the Ron Francis fuel pump relay. There are even pretty pictures showing you how. And yes, it's worked on a number of build even those we've done with the Ford Control Pack.

Yes I did receive the factory five wiring guide. I chose to not fire an additional relay and only have a 15 amp fuse feeding my fuel pump when the sniper is fed with 30 amps and it’s 30 amp relay is set up to run the fuel pump. I cleaned up the wiring and ran a 10 gauge wire from the sniper blue wire to my fuel pump. Since I did this, my inertia switch was no longer in the loop. This is why I spliced it in-line to the sniper relay. I could have spliced this on the pump side but the wires look small to me and it was wired to the coil side of the RF relay so I simply mimicked this on the sniper relay. There is several ways to wire these and this is just how I did mine. Just offering up how I did it in case it helps The OP solve their problem.

[NA5KAR]

NA5KAR,

If the car was running, it was wired in a way that worked. So, what would cause it to die after a period of time? First thing that comes to mind is enrichment curve in the Sniper or other setting tied to coolant temperature perhaps. How much fuel is in the tank? In tank or external fuel pump? Have you done any data logging with the car running and at the time it dies? Does it start again after it dies and run for a couple of minutes? Does it start again after the car has cooled down? The inertia switch, as wired out of the box, gets a ground on one side and feeds the RF fuel pump relay on the other. If you wired the Sniper as I described, the inertia switch and the RF fuel pump relay play no part in the Sniper and it's control of the fuel pump. If you wire it the way I described and still want to use the inertia switch, you just need to run the fuel pump ground direct to the switch. I'm trying to follow what you are doing, and I'm confused about what you actually have wired at this point.

Dave

Thanks for the questions Dave. Here is the series of events that led me here. First start a few weeks ago. The engine ran for about 10 minutes, then quit. After 5 minutes, I started it again and it ran for 45 seconds and quit. My first thought was from the Blueprint FAQ from Johnny, that said, "Don't run the engine for short time periods because it needs to come to temp during a run. Being a newbie, I put the car away till I could ask questions and get answers. Spoke to Blueprint and was given a few suggestions. Run a ground directly to the engine block, install a fuel pressure gauge near the Sniper (should be 55 to 60 psi), Check the inertia switch, and make sure the coil plug was connected. Did all of that. They also suggested that I should do a go-cart, because the Sniper needs to have varied speeds to learn. About a week later, we did a go-cart. I took it around the block and it ran great. My son took it next and got half way around when it died. Had to tow it home. Would not start again that day. When it does not start, with the key in the on position, the fuel pump does not come on. The next weekend, a buddy came over to help me diagnose it. He is an aircraft and car mechanic. I started the car and it quit after 2 minutes. He went right to the fuel pump relay with his meter. He probed the wires, and afterward, the fuel pump came on with the key. He suggested swapping the relay. Did that and the car started and ran well for at least 10 minutes. Turned it off and restarted with no issue. Thought we had solved it. FWIW, the relay we replaced was rattling when shaken. Yesterday, a couple of friends came over to see he car progress and to help me diagnose the fuel gauge issue I had. I started the car and it ran for 2 minutes and 58 second before it quit. After it quit, the fuel pump did not come on when the key was in the on position, so we focused on the relay. If you've looked at my videos, you saw the things we saw. Voltage on the thin blue wire. So, here is the extent of my wiring. I am using the Sniper wiring for the fuel pump and bypassing the Ron Francis harness for that. I ran the FP ground wire from the FP to the relay side of the inertia switch. This was suggested in Johnny's FAQ. I tested the ground pin of the inertia switch and it is good. I've made no modifications to the Sniper wiring at all. For the Switched Ignition pink Sniper wire, I connected it to the Electric Choke wire, also in the FAQ. Today, I removed the FP ground from the inertia switch, and I plan to connect it to the frame near the FP. Then, I'll properly test the FP relay as suggested by guys on this thread. As for your other question, 10 gallons in the tank, external Holley fuel pump mounted per specs, coolant is full, and at 180 degrees, fan comes on, I didn't do any tunes on the Sniper or record any data. Sorry for the long response. Wanted to cover everything. If I'm not looking in the right place, I'm happy to entertain suggestions. Thanks again.

Dan

[michael everson]

Based on everything I read here, I would return the system for a replacement or at least a check of the computer running the unit. You have proven that it will run so it’s not a wiring problem.
Mike.

[phileas_fogg]

Is it possible your fuel pump relay is overheating & cutting out? I had an intermittent fuel pump problem that drove me nuts until I replaced the generic relay with a Bosch unit rated for temperatures it will never see behind my dash.

Also, you really need to log some data. That will help you eliminate lack of an RPM signal as a cause (if the ECU doesn't see an RPM signal, it shuts the engine down).


John

[weendoggy]

Based on everything I read here, I would return the system for a replacement or at least a check of the computer running the unit. You have proven that it will run so it’s not a wiring problem.
Mike.

One thing you can do prior to contacting Holley is do a few checks: 1. disconnect the battery for at least 10min, 2. re-flash the ECU with up to date firmware (both ECU and LCD), 3. reload or install a new tune (they can get corrupted). Check operation. This does not always cure the problem but I have found on HP's as well as Sniper's that just disconnecting the battery allows the ECU to "rethink itself". Not sure why, but works. Also, clearing out old data is sometimes a culprit and re-flash firmware can help get a clean start. Now, it may not work or solve your problem and will need to be checked by Holley. The other thing is, do you know what the fuel pressure is? You should monitor that with a transponder and/or live in-line fuel gauge. If the system goes below 20psi, you have nothing. Given the fact your system ran is a plus, but doing some simple things first may keep you from sending the unit in. Basically you are doing some troubleshooting and trying to find out why/what happened.

[NA5KAR]

Is it possible your fuel pump relay is overheating & cutting out? I had an intermittent fuel pump problem that drove me nuts until I replaced the generic relay with a Bosch unit rated for temperatures it will never see behind my dash.

Also, you really need to log some data. That will help you eliminate lack of an RPM signal as a cause (if the ECU doesn't see an RPM signal, it shuts the engine down).


John

Thanks John. I did notice something odd on the last start. The Sniper hand held showed about 1100 RPM, the engine sounded like it was running at 800 RPM, and the tach showed 300 RPM. I think weendoggy's post (the next one) might be on to something. I'm also emailing with Blueprint right now. I'll post results. Thanks.

Dan

[NA5KAR]

One thing you can do prior to contacting Holley is do a few checks: 1. disconnect the battery for at least 10min, 2. re-flash the ECU with up to date firmware (both ECU and LCD), 3. reload or install a new tune (they can get corrupted). Check operation. This does not always cure the problem but I have found on HP's as well as Sniper's that just disconnecting the battery allows the ECU to "rethink itself". Not sure why, but works. Also, clearing out old data is sometimes a culprit and re-flash firmware can help get a clean start. Now, it may not work or solve your problem and will need to be checked by Holley. The other thing is, do you know what the fuel pressure is? You should monitor that with a transponder and/or live in-line fuel gauge. If the system goes below 20psi, you have nothing. Given the fact your system ran is a plus, but doing some simple things first may keep you from sending the unit in. Basically you are doing some troubleshooting and trying to find out why/what happened.

Thanks weendoggy. I think you might be on to something. I mentioned this in my response to phileas_fogg above 'I did notice something odd on the last start. The Sniper hand held showed about 1100 RPM, the engine sounded like it was running at 800 RPM, and the tach showed 300 RPM'

I'm emailing with Blueprint now and I'll share your comments with them. I'll let you know what the results are. Thanks.

Dan

[Papa]

Thanks weendoggy. I think you might be on to something. I mentioned this in my response to phileas_fogg above 'I did notice something odd on the last start. The Sniper hand held showed about 1100 RPM, the engine sounded like it was running at 800 RPM, and the tach showed 300 RPM'

I'm emailing with Blueprint now and I'll share your comments with them. I'll let you know what the results are. Thanks.

Dan

Dan,

You can download the content of the SD card from Holley and then re-run the initial setup wizard to get a clean start. It's also not a bad idea to get the latest firmware installed, but I'd start with the clean tune.

https://www.holley.com/support/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/

Dave

[NA5KAR]

Dan,

You can download the content of the SD card from Holley and then re-run the initial setup wizard to get a clean start. It's also not a bad idea to get the latest firmware installed, but I'd start with the clean tune.

https://www.holley.com/support/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/

Dave

Thank you Dave. I was told by Blueprint that the Sniper would be tested and programmed with the engine and it was basically plug and play. I've since learned that there are steps that I need to be part of for the initial setup. Rookie mistake, but I'm anxious to learn everything. Thanks for the link.

[Papa]

Thank you Dave. I was told by Blueprint that the Sniper would be tested and programmed with the engine and it was basically plug and play. I've since learned that there are steps that I need to be part of for the initial setup. Rookie mistake, but I'm anxious to learn everything. Thanks for the link.

Yep -- I also reached out to BPE about any special tune they may have developed and found that they are basically going through the wizard and that's about it. That's definitely fine to get you going, but some tuning will be needed to dial it in.

Dave

[Norm B]

My Sniper was wired like the diagram with no light blue fuel pump control wire out of the 7 pin connector. I called Holley and they had no issue with me breaking into their harness to gain access to this control. Nice to see they have upgraded to make running an external relay easier.
Having said that, I think you are chasing a symptom and not the cause of your engine stalling. The Sniper unit shuts off the fuel pump if there is a loss of engine rotation sensed. What ignition system are you using and where is the Sniper unit getting its timing signal?
This test is going to sound weird but, wrap your distributor with aluminum foil and give it a try. Holley tech had me do this for exactly the symptoms you are describing and it solved the issue. Made a shield and bought a Cobra distributor cover as a permanent solution.

HTH

Norm

[i.e.427]

I chose to not fire an additional relay and only have a 15 amp fuse feeding my fuel pump when the sniper is fed with 30 amps and it’s 30 amp relay is set up to run the fuel pump.


You sure bout that? Cause all the wiring instructions from Holley state that anything higher than 15 amp loads should be used with a secondary circuit and relay. I spoke with Holley about cutting into the factory supplied wiring harness and they cautioned against it. Guess it's all dependent which tech you get. My main concern is that by feeding the ground side of his fuel pump though the inertia switch's small wiring somehow put undo stress on the Holley Sniper system and burned out something inside the unit. We continually see folks complain about their hesitancy to wiring. A lot of that can be sidestepped by simply following the Factory Five instructions. I still have issue with Ron Francis only supplying 15 amps to something Ford originally had a 20 amp circuit running to. But the 14 gauge wire they run to the fuel pump should be good to 20 amps for the short length of wire to the back of the car. We're both here to help the OP. I just want to make sure everyone understands Holley says 15 amps max in their instructions. I think, at this point, the unit needs to be sent back and checked by Holley.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153847&d=1632783697

[NA5KAR]

Hi Guys. Work has kept me out of the garage for the past week, but I did get some testing done yesterday. Jose from Blueprint sent me an email asking about the connections from the Sniper wiring to the distributor and the tach. I believe that Blueprints focus is on the coil overheating or a bad distributor connection. I made a couple of short videos to document my wiring. If you watch the videos and notice any issues with my testing methods, or my results, I would be grateful for your critique.

My next step this weekend is to attach the fuel pump ground wire and test the response at the fuel pump relay, using the information I've read from you guys here. Depending what the results are, I'm going to try the suggestions made in this thread. Thanks again for all of your help. Video links below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0FPOhC2fCI&t=31s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Knx-U8irD0

[danmas]

Did you resolve this?