Wiring Help?

[BeePea]

Hello All!

I am struggling with my wiring, between the Digital Guard Dawg, Sniper EFI, and Vintage Gauges sending units.

Starting with the Digital Guard Dawg, I put together what I think is a correct mapping from my ignition wiring from the RF harness to the DGD, but I have some gaps still, can anyone who has installed this check my work and fill in any blanks?

Ignition RF harness -> DGD
Read Headlight switch -> ?
Red ignition switch (think) -> Pink 1 ignition
Brown Acc -> Pink 2 Accessory
Brown Alternator -> ?
Orange Ignition feed -> ?
Light Blue Crank Power -> Purple Start/Crank
Light Blue Clutch Safety switch -> Purple Start/Crank

The Red DGD goes directly to the battery?
Black DGD gets ground to the chassis.

Proactive thank you for the help. I'll reply to myself with my other wiring questions in this thread.

[edwardb]

I have a DGD PBS-I in my Gen 3 Coupe. Tested it before installation and obviously now lots of times since it's in its second driving season. Basically, it's wired just like the ignition switch. With a couple of additions.

DGD Color/Description -> Connection
Red+12V Battery -> +12V battery power
Black Chassis Ground -> Chassis Ground
Purple Start/Crank -> RF Blue start wire
Pink Ignition -> RF Orange Ignition Feed
Pink/Blk Accessory 1 -> Available additional circuit that's on any time in start or run. I routed it to a 20 amp breaker and a USB accessory socket.
Brown Accessory 2 -> RF Brown Accessory Feed
Brown (small) Brakes (+12V cold side) -> To cold side of brake light switch (e.g. only has +12V when brake pedal is pushed down)
Purple (small) Ground upon Disarm -> Chassis Ground

RF headlight switch you can take directly to the battery. That's what's happening in the RF harness. Clutch safety switch isn't technically part of the DGD. It's just in the blue start wire that makes/breaks the connection to the starter based on clutch pedal up or down. Brown alternator wire in the RF harness at the ignition switch isn't typically used unless you have a one-wire alternator that needs the exciter wire. Not part of the DGD.

Note the above is their Type 2 configuration. First push of the button is accessory 2 mode. So if wired as shown, duplicates the RF harness with the standard ignition key switch turned to the left accessory position. Second push is accessory 1 mode plus run. Any time you can push the brake pedal down and hold the button to start.

Hope this makes sense. If you have the PBS-II, I don't have experience with that. But looking at the instructions, looks like the basic wiring (above) is the same. It adds an accessory harness that you access via short and long pushes of the buttons on the keyfob for controlling things like door poppers, windows, trunk, whatever.

[BeePea]

I have a DGD PBS-I in my Gen 3 Coupe. Tested it before installation and obviously now lots of times since it's in its second driving season. Basically, it's wired just like the ignition switch. With a couple of additions.

DGD Color/Description -> Connection
Red+12V Battery -> +12V battery power
Black Chassis Ground -> Chassis Ground
Purple Start/Crank -> RF Blue start wire
Pink Ignition -> RF Orange Ignition Feed
Pink/Blk Accessory 1 -> Available additional circuit that's on any time in start or run. I routed it to a 20 amp breaker and a USB accessory socket.
Brown Accessory 2 -> RF Brown Accessory Feed
Brown (small) Brakes (+12V cold side) -> To cold side of brake light switch (e.g. only has +12V when brake pedal is pushed down)
Purple (small) Ground upon Disarm -> Chassis Ground

RF headlight switch you can take directly to the battery. That's what's happening in the RF harness. Clutch safety switch isn't technically part of the DGD. It's just in the blue start wire that makes/breaks the connection to the starter based on clutch pedal up or down. Brown alternator wire in the RF harness at the ignition switch isn't typically used unless you have a one-wire alternator that needs the exciter wire. Not part of the DGD.

Note the above is their Type 2 configuration. First push of the button is accessory 2 mode. So if wired as shown, duplicates the RF harness with the standard ignition key switch turned to the left accessory position. Second push is accessory 1 mode plus run. Any time you can push the brake pedal down and hold the button to start.

Hope this makes sense. If you have the PBS-II, I don't have experience with that. But looking at the instructions, looks like the basic wiring (above) is the same. It adds an accessory harness that you access via short and long pushes of the buttons on the keyfob for controlling things like door poppers, windows, trunk, whatever.

Thank you!!

For this: Red+12V Battery -> +12V battery power... is the connection side from the thick red wire in the RF ignition wires, or is this a direct line I need to run to the battery?

Also, do I wire together the 12v power line with the headlight line and connect to the DGD red power?, and similarly the alternator wire with the accessory wire to the DGD brown acc2 wire?

[BeePea]

Oh, and also, does my pink wire from my EFI harness also get connected to the battery line on the DGD?

[Hoooper]

What DGD model do you have? That could change the wiring/colors needed. Mine only had 4 wires.

[BeePea]

What DGD model do you have? That could change the wiring/colors needed. Mine only had 4 wires.

Same that Paul called out above, the PBS-I

[edwardb]

Thank you!!

For this: Red+12V Battery -> +12V battery power... is the connection side from the thick red wire in the RF ignition wires, or is this a direct line I need to run to the battery?

Also, do I wire together the 12v power line with the headlight line and connect to the DGD red power?, and similarly the alternator wire with the accessory wire to the DGD brown acc2 wire?

You asked about how the DGD wires get connected, which I answered. With one clarification described below. Here’s the complete version of how I did mine accounting for the DGD wires and the RF power wires. There might be other ways to do this. But worked for me. I've used a similar setup on several builds.

Connect the DGD wires as previously outlined. No change except this clarification: I said connect the DGD RED +12V BATTERY to +12V battery power. That was per my notes but leaves out that the easiest way to do that is connect it to the RF RED-IGN SW-SOL wire along with all the other wires that terminate at the ignition switch. There’s only the single connection for each DGD wire. As I said, with only a couple of additions, the DGD is basically a replacement for the ignition switch. If you think of it that way, it becomes simpler to understand.

For the RF power wires, I mounted a bus bar on the cockpit side of the firewall (Blue Sea Systems #2307. (4) 1/4"-20 Studs with Cover, 150A DC continuous rating) with a feed from the battery. The feed went through a master disconnect. But that’s optional. With the switch on, the bus bar had battery power at all times. Connected on the bus bar:

RF RED-BATTERY FEED
RF RED-ALTERNATOR FEED
RF RED-IGN SW-SOL
RF RED-HDLT SW 1 FEED (duplicates having it attached to the battery feed at the RF ignition switch)

It doesn’t help with details. But FWIW, this was what my setup looked like when completed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101284&d=1548528950


Oh, and also, does my pink wire from my EFI harness also get connected to the battery line on the DGD?

Sorry, mine was a Coyote setup. So I can't answer a specific question about your EFI setup. If your EFI instructions say that wire should go to the battery connection on the ignition switch, then I guess the answer is yes. But +12V battery voltage is available elsewhere. Nothing magical about it being connected to the always on location at the ignition switch (or DGD).

[D Stand]

The pink from the sniper should be a signal from the ignition. Needs +12volts while cranking and running. Not sure which wire this is on the DGD but that is the function requirement for the sniper to work.

[edwardb]

The pink from the sniper should be a signal from the ignition. Needs +12volts while cranking and running. Not sure which wire this is on the DGD but that is the function requirement for the sniper to work.

That's exactly how the RF-ORG EFI OR COIL wire works and is intended for that purpose. Not related to the ignition switch or DGD connection.

[BeePea]

Okay, thank you both. I'm pretty sure I'm aligned now. All four of the circled wires you have going to the bus, in addition to the DGD battery wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153616&d=1632322518

[edwardb]

Okay, thank you both. I'm pretty sure I'm aligned now. All four of the circled wires you have going to the bus, in addition to the DGD battery wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153616&d=1632322518

No. That's the ignition switch. Those go to the DGD wires as explained. The wires on the bus are the ones showing on the RF wiring diagram as STARTER SOLENOID. Again I would stress think of the DGD as a replacement for the IGNITION SWITCH. With this understanding it should make more sense. Basically the car is wired just like the RF schematic shows except I described using a bus bar to gather the main power wires instead of the starter solenoid and with the DGD instead of the ignition switch. Then with the few added wires showing in the DGD instructions.