Attempted First Start - Coyote Not Happy

[richtersand]

Hi all, thanks in advance for weighing in on this. I am running Gen3 Coyote with control pack. I attempted first start today and got the cold shoulder. I was afraid this might happen as I noticed that the engine had strangely never attempted to prime the pump with key in the on position. Any suggestions/advice is much appreciated!


Ignition seems to be wired correctly. This was my first guess as I went off the reservation with a 65 Mustang replica with bevels instead of the factory setup. But I think I am getting all the right signals at the right times. Most notably, I am getting 12v from the ignition switch input to the pigtail coyote SMR wire when the key is turned to "Start". I am getting 12v from the ignition relation trigger when key is turned to "On" and "Start". Also see next point
When key is turned to "On", the Coyote throttle body is fully responsive. So I believe the coyote is powered/grounded properly
All fuses (RF and Coyote PDB) are good
Fuel wiring checks out as I can power fuel pump manually through Coyote pigtail where Coyote power would normally be coming from
I rechecked all the connectors I could think of such as alternator, O2 sensors, MAF, throttle pedal, clutch safety switch, etc.
I am getting MIL light. I have a cheap OBD II Scanner on the way from Amazon to see if I can get any hints from the code(s)

The biggest hint in my mind is the fuel pump is not priming despite the fact that the throttle body/DBW is working. My thought is the Coyote is unhappy for one or another and in a no start condition. Any thoughts as to what might cause that??

Thanks again!

PS--I found this old post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28921-no-start-condition-on-coyote) but I believe my EFI crank wire is showing 12V...

[JohnK]

Do you have the inertia switch wired into the fuel pump ground circuit? If so, check to make sure it's not tripped.

[richtersand]

Do you have the inertia switch wired into the fuel pump ground circuit? If so, check to make sure it's not tripped.

Thanks John. Yes, forgot to mention that I tested fuel pump circuit and inertia switch by powering the circuit to show fuel pump works, then pulled the inertia switch and it stopped working. So I believe all is functioning as expected on that front....

[michael everson]

The last 3 GEN 3s I have done did not prime the fuel pump. It took forever to start due to this. Wasn’t a problem after the first start. Probably took several 30 second cranking times to get it to fire. You could also try sending 12 volts right to the pump to prime
Mike

[richtersand]

The last 3 GEN 3s I have done did not prime the fuel pump. It took forever to start due to this. Wasn’t a problem after the first start. Probably took several 30 second cranking times to get it to fire. You could also try sending 12 volts right to the pump to prime
Mike

Thanks Mike. The issue isn't really priming the pump... I only bring it up as a symptom of the no start condition of the Coyote. The engine isn't turning over because the Coyote, for one reason or another, is preventing the start. I am trying to figure that part out...

For what it's worth, I followed EdwardB's suggestion to hot wire the pump to get the fuel pressure dialed in. Worked like a charm...

[michael everson]

Ok. Skip the self start. Jump the starter and see if it starts
Mike

[Al_C]

Hi all, thanks in advance for weighing in on this. I am running Gen3 Coyote with control pack. I attempted first start today and got the cold shoulder. I was afraid this might happen as I noticed that the engine had strangely never attempted to prime the pump with key in the on position. Any suggestions/advice is much appreciated!


Ignition seems to be wired correctly. This was my first guess as I went off the reservation with a 65 Mustang replica with bevels instead of the factory setup. But I think I am getting all the right signals at the right times. Most notably, I am getting 12v from the ignition switch input to the pigtail coyote SMR wire when the key is turned to "Start". I am getting 12v from the ignition relation trigger when key is turned to "On" and "Start". Also see next point
When key is turned to "On", the Coyote throttle body is fully responsive. So I believe the coyote is powered/grounded properly
All fuses (RF and Coyote PDB) are good
Fuel wiring checks out as I can power fuel pump manually through Coyote pigtail where Coyote power would normally be coming from
I rechecked all the connectors I could think of such as alternator, O2 sensors, MAF, throttle pedal, clutch safety switch, etc.
I am getting MIL light. I have a cheap OBD II Scanner on the way from Amazon to see if I can get any hints from the code(s)

The biggest hint in my mind is the fuel pump is not priming despite the fact that the throttle body/DBW is working. My thought is the Coyote is unhappy for one or another and in a no start condition. Any thoughts as to what might cause that??

Thanks again!

PS--I found this old post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28921-no-start-condition-on-coyote) but I believe my EFI crank wire is showing 12V...

Hey! That's my old post! (a walk down memory lane, perhaps?) In any event, if you go to the end (more or less) of that thread you see the primary culprit was the orange efi/crank wire. There are two connections from the pigtail to the RF harness. Please keep in mind that mine is a Gen II, and my RF harness is a 2015 vintage. My best suggestion, assuming you have all the other bases covered, is to ensure that the physical wire connections are solid. I had a couple of them that weren't and those were hard to find. So just for fun, perhaps go through all the connections between pigtail wires and RF and/or ignition switch wires and make sure the connectors/connections are solid.

[edwardb]

Even though it doesn't run long enough to fully prime on the first start, you should hear the pump run briefly when you first turn the key to run. If you're not hearing it, then something isn't right or not solid in the fuel pump wiring. The fact that the throttle body is alive and the engine cranks suggests the Coyote harness and PCM is alive.

[richtersand]

Even though it doesn't run long enough to fully prime on the first start, you should hear the pump run briefly when you first turn the key to run. If you're not hearing it, then something isn't right or not solid in the fuel pump wiring. The fact that the throttle body is alive and the engine cranks suggests the Coyote harness and PCM is alive.

Thanks EdwardB, was looking forward to your thoughts. Appreciate you always jumping in with your wisdom. Sorry this wasn’t clear in my posts but the engine is NOT cranking. I get nothing when I turn the key to Start.

[richtersand]

A little more clarification here on my testing procedure. Hopefully you guys can check my logic. On the coyote pigtail with the three primary interfacing wires, pictured below...

I took a 12V test light to the prongs. On the RF side of the harness...

I am reading 12V on the tan ignition wire when the ignition switch is set to ON and when it is set to START. As I understand it, this is INPUT to the coyote for ignition to run the engine.

I am reading 12V on the blue wire when the ignition is set to START. As I understand it, this is the impulse INPUT to the coyote to start the engine.

By applying 12V to the green fuel wire, I am able to power the fuel pump with no issues. As I understand it, this is the OUTPUT from the Coyote to power the fuel pump.

So naturally my question is if I am getting the two key input signals to the coyote, why isn't the coyote then outputting the right signals to the fuel pump and the starter?? The only thing I can think of is I have a No Start condition triggered somehow (e.g., a critical sensor is loose) that is preventing the engine from turning over.

Any ideas what would cause the coyote to ignore the start impulse from the ignition switch?

I will also call Ford Performance tomorrow to ask them.

In addition to previous assumptions, am I correct to assume the wiring between the Ignition SW & Coyote Pigtail is correct if these signals are going through as described? One troubleshooting idea is to triple check the wiring, starting from the ignition switch. But my assumption is that the wiring is correct if these signals are coming through correctly. Or is this flawed logic?

Thanks again!



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153565&d=1632113091

[JohnK]

It would seem to me that if you're getting 12V at the blue starter trigger wire when the ignition is set to start, but the engine is not cranking then the problem is with the starter. All other conditions on the coyote end have been met if the blue wire is being energized. To confirm, you're seeing 12V on the blue starter trigger wire at the starter?

[richtersand]

It would seem to me that if you're getting 12V at the blue starter trigger wire when the ignition is set to start, but the engine is not cranking then the problem is with the starter. All other conditions on the coyote end have been met if the blue wire is being energized. To confirm, you're seeing 12V on the blue starter trigger wire at the starter?

That’s a good thought. No, I am measuring 12V behind the dash, not at the starter. I will definitely check it.

But that said, it doesn’t solve the mystery about the fuel pump not activating… since both (fuel pump and starter) are not activating I am thinking it has to do with the coyote controller…

[Al_C]

A few more thoughts. Look back at my original thread. Post #16. I listed the pigtail connections. The key ones (at least on my Gen II) are pigtail green to RF tan; blue start request to blue RF efi/crank; green ign request to RF orange efi/crank. Ensure those are good.

Next, check your coyote clutch safety switch. maybe i missed it, but I didn't see anything about that in your notes. Ensure that the switch is adjusted properly so it engages when you depress the clutch. without that switch working, the starter will not turn.

[michael everson]

Again. Skip the self start and see if you can start it manually by applying 12 volts to the start lug on the starter. The last 3 coyotes I built did not prime the fuel pump. Ford says it wasnt an issue. They were right. After the initial first start, everything was fine. Did you splice the blue wires in the RF harness that eventually goes to the starter? They are dead ended some where in the foot box area for a clutch switch. Wont start if these are no connected. This is separate from the coyote clutch switch.
Mike

[edwardb]

The fact that you have neither fuel pump activation or starter crank suggests an overall problem. The connections you describe are correct. +12V to the light green ignition relay trigger. Can be any ignition controlled +12V source from the RF harness. Most used the Coil/EFI wire. I've also used the choke wire. Just has to have +12V at all times in run and start. +12V to the light blue starter motor request (SMR) when key is in start. Typically the RF blue start wire from the ignition switch. Note the other blue wire branched from the ignition switch, which goes to the RF clutch switch isn't normally in the circuit. It can be tied away or removed. Finally, the Coyote fuel pump wire spliced into the RF fuel pump circuit. This has been posted about a number of times because the RF panel has changed over the years and so has Factory Five's instructions. Most recent have the Coyote wire on the coil side of the fuel pump relay (which enables the inertia switch), and the main pump power coming from the RF panel. Won't repeat all that here.

In my experience, if you don't hear the fuel pump run briefly when the key is first turned to run, then something is wrong. The Coyote clutch safety switch needs to be closed (e.g. clutch down) in order to crank. But you should still hear the fuel pump activate. There's nothing in the Coyote setup that I'm aware of that would prevent that logically, e.g. pressure sensor or whatever. The fact that the starter won't activate either is concerning, of course, but without the fuel pump I wouldn't try hot starting it or at least at this point suspect a defective starter. Something is wrong with the wiring or perhaps an issue with the PCM. But I wouldn't start there either.

There have been a few posts over the last months citing similar results. In at least two cases that I recall, the problem was found to be wiring. In one case an intermittent connection. In another a grounding issue. You should have one, or ideally two, ground straps from the engine to the frame. I use two. One on the LH side from the block to the frame. There are open threads on the block that can be used. Then another on the RH side from under a starter bolt to the frame. Then check the Coyote harness ground. Has to be rock solid. Could be good enough to allow the PCM to run (e.g. so your throttle body is working as you describe) but still not good enough to run. Make sure it's solid and on bare metal. On both of my Coyote builds, I ran the ground wire to the negative battery terminal. Not mandatory at all, but best likelihood of a solid and reliable connection.

If you're able to speak with Ford Performance (not easy sometimes) I can almost guarantee they're going to have you focus on the wiring before they'd admit to any component issues. Not wrong because multiple failures suggest an overall vs. single issue.

[richtersand]

A few more thoughts. Look back at my original thread. Post #16. I listed the pigtail connections. The key ones (at least on my Gen II) are pigtail green to RF tan; blue start request to blue RF efi/crank; green ign request to RF orange efi/crank. Ensure those are good.

Next, check your coyote clutch safety switch. maybe i missed it, but I didn't see anything about that in your notes. Ensure that the switch is adjusted properly so it engages when you depress the clutch. without that switch working, the starter will not turn.

Thanks Al. Sorry I didn't mention that. Yes, I checked the switch with a continuity test. It functions as expected open/closed.

[richtersand]

Again. Skip the self start and see if you can start it manually by applying 12 volts to the start lug on the starter. The last 3 coyotes I built did not prime the fuel pump. Ford says it wasnt an issue. They were right. After the initial first start, everything was fine. Did you splice the blue wires in the RF harness that eventually goes to the starter? They are dead ended some where in the foot box area for a clutch switch. Wont start if these are no connected. This is separate from the coyote clutch switch.
Mike

Thanks Mike. I took the blue RF harness wire into the Coyote harness, as *I believe* the Coyote brain controls the starter. I don't think there is a direct connection from RF to the Coyote with this setup. Coyote gets the SMR impulse and activates the starter. Is that correct??

[GTBradley]

Dumb question, but you do have the master disconnect switch connected and turned on, yes? I saw in one of your posts that you installed one, but you decided to power the PDM at all times but disconnect the wiring harness with the cutoff. Also, just throwing this one out there, is the the Coyote electronic gas pedal connected?

A side note, I don't know if this is the same on other people's monitors, but when looking through your thread for clues it is kind of difficult to see the photographs because they are in an extra large format. You might consider posting with a reduced resolution to help with viewing them. Just a suggestion.

I think I saw that you bought from Mike Forte? Did the engine and and controls pack all come from the same place?

[richtersand]

Dumb question, but you do have the master disconnect switch connected and turned on, yes? I saw in one of your posts that you installed one, but you decided to power the PDM at all times but disconnect the wiring harness with the cutoff. Also, just throwing this one out there, is the the Coyote electronic gas pedal connected?

A side note, I don't know if this is the same on other people's monitors, but when looking through your thread for clues it is kind of difficult to see the photographs because they are in an extra large format. You might consider posting with a reduced resolution to help with viewing them. Just a suggestion.

I think I saw that you bought from Mike Forte? Did the engine and and controls pack all come from the same place?

Hey, thanks GTBradley for taking a look. Yes, master disconnect is turned on and gas pedal is connected. I am able to activate the throttle body but not getting signal to the fuel pump or starter.

Thanks for the feedback on the pictures! I didn't know I can adjust the size but I'll start doing that.

Yes, bought the entire setup from Forte. I'm going to give him a call tomorrow.

[richtersand]

The fact that you have neither fuel pump activation or starter crank suggests an overall problem. The connections you describe are correct. +12V to the light green ignition relay trigger. Can be any ignition controlled +12V source from the RF harness. Most used the Coil/EFI wire. I've also used the choke wire. Just has to have +12V at all times in run and start. +12V to the light blue starter motor request (SMR) when key is in start. Typically the RF blue start wire from the ignition switch. Note the other blue wire branched from the ignition switch, which goes to the RF clutch switch isn't normally in the circuit. It can be tied away or removed. Finally, the Coyote fuel pump wire spliced into the RF fuel pump circuit. This has been posted about a number of times because the RF panel has changed over the years and so has Factory Five's instructions. Most recent have the Coyote wire on the coil side of the fuel pump relay (which enables the inertia switch), and the main pump power coming from the RF panel. Won't repeat all that here.

In my experience, if you don't hear the fuel pump run briefly when the key is first turned to run, then something is wrong. The Coyote clutch safety switch needs to be closed (e.g. clutch down) in order to crank. But you should still hear the fuel pump activate. There's nothing in the Coyote setup that I'm aware of that would prevent that logically, e.g. pressure sensor or whatever. The fact that the starter won't activate either is concerning, of course, but without the fuel pump I wouldn't try hot starting it or at least at this point suspect a defective starter. Something is wrong with the wiring or perhaps an issue with the PCM. But I wouldn't start there either.

There have been a few posts over the last months citing similar results. In at least two cases that I recall, the problem was found to be wiring. In one case an intermittent connection. In another a grounding issue. You should have one, or ideally two, ground straps from the engine to the frame. I use two. One on the LH side from the block to the frame. There are open threads on the block that can be used. Then another on the RH side from under a starter bolt to the frame. Then check the Coyote harness ground. Has to be rock solid. Could be good enough to allow the PCM to run (e.g. so your throttle body is working as you describe) but still not good enough to run. Make sure it's solid and on bare metal. On both of my Coyote builds, I ran the ground wire to the negative battery terminal. Not mandatory at all, but best likelihood of a solid and reliable connection.

If you're able to speak with Ford Performance (not easy sometimes) I can almost guarantee they're going to have you focus on the wiring before they'd admit to any component issues. Not wrong because multiple failures suggest an overall vs. single issue.

Thanks Paul, I will look into grounds. I actually ran the engine block directly to the battery ground circuit and don't run anything through the frame itself. Same with Coyote main harness ground. But I might have missed something and will double check everything. More soon.

[Nigel Allen]

I seem to recall a guy in New Zealand having a problem with his Coyote not firing up and it turned out that the ECM had not had a program installed. I also think that there was something unusual about the part number that indicated that the ECM had been purposely supplied that way.

I hope my memory serves me correctly and that I'm not sending you on a wild goose chase.

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul, I will look into grounds. I actually ran the engine block directly to the battery ground circuit and don't run anything through the frame itself. Same with Coyote main harness ground. But I might have missed something and will double check everything. More soon.

I've never done it quite like that so can't say whether it's good or bad. When you say "directly to the battery ground circuit" do you mean the actual negative post of the battery? Or to a frame location by the battery and tied together there? It should be the latter in my experience. No matter what, I'd highly recommend adding a ground strap from under one of the starter bolts to the frame. That makes sure you're starter has a direct and solid ground. Also adds another ground path based on your other engine connection. I'm assuming your ground connections are bare metal to bare metal and tight with full contact.

As far as continued troubleshooting, these are the things that come to mind. Maybe some (all) of this you've done already.

- You say you have +12V on the SMR connection with the key in start. Have you measured the voltage at the small terminal on the starter when in start? I'm guessing it won't show voltage unless the starter is defective. You can hot check the starter by putting +12V directly to the small terminal on the starter by using a jumper cable from the battery. It should activate the solenoid and spin the engine.

- Could be the starter and fuel pump are separate issues. Lots of forum bandwidth on the Coyote wiring to RF fuel pump circuit as mentioned before. I believe you said you hot checked the fuel pump and it worked? Maybe describe or ideally post a picture of how you have the Coyote fuel pump wire spliced into the RF panel. Assume you have the inertia switch in the circuit with the button pushed down.

- Have you checked the Coyote PDB fuses and relays? Unlikely to find anything. But need to cross that off the list. I highly doubt the harness itself is the issue. No easy way to troubleshoot.

- You mention scanning the ODB2 port. Will be interested to see if that shows anything. Is the MIL illuminated? Likely if there are codes it would be lit.

At the end of the day, Ford Performance may need to re-flash your PCM. Several have solved issues with this step. They have a process for returning to them and they get it right back to you. Don't know if that's changed or if it's as fast as the one day service they used to provide. But that could be in your future.

[rich grsc]

Always, always ground the frame. The frame is an excellent ground path for things like, lights, fuel pump, fuel gauges etcetera.

[richtersand]

Always, always ground the frame. The frame is an excellent ground path for things like, lights, fuel pump, fuel gauges etcetera.

Thanks Rich. The frame itself is grounded through the battery + engine strap. But no other grounds are connected to the frame - everything runs through a ground bus directly to the battery.


I've never done it quite like that so can't say whether it's good or bad. When you say "directly to the battery ground circuit" do you mean the actual negative post of the battery? Or to a frame location by the battery and tied together there? It should be the latter in my experience.

Yes, it is all tied together on the engine mount - the battery, the engine ground strap, and the beefy ground headed up to the harnesses.



No matter what, I'd highly recommend adding a ground strap from under one of the starter bolts to the frame. That makes sure you're starter has a direct and solid ground. Also adds another ground path based on your other engine connection. I'm assuming your ground connections are bare metal to bare metal and tight with full contact.


Will do. I wondered about starter ground strap but assumed the engine block would take care of it. I will add a strap to starter, good idea. Yes, connections are bare metal and tight.



- You say you have +12V on the SMR connection with the key in start. Have you measured the voltage at the small terminal on the starter when in start? I'm guessing it won't show voltage unless the starter is defective. You can hot check the starter by putting +12V directly to the small terminal on the starter by using a jumper cable from the battery. It should activate the solenoid and spin the engine.


No, will do this and report back. I agree, my assumption going into it is the Coyote brain isn't sending voltage. But I'll confirm and also test the starter with 12V.



- Could be the starter and fuel pump are separate issues. Lots of forum bandwidth on the Coyote wiring to RF fuel pump circuit as mentioned before. I believe you said you hot checked the fuel pump and it worked? Maybe describe or ideally post a picture of how you have the Coyote fuel pump wire spliced into the RF panel. Assume you have the inertia switch in the circuit with the button pushed down.


So I tested the fuel pump and convinced myself it is working by applying 12V through the coyote pigtail into the RF harness. When I apply 12V, it runs the pump and pressurizes the system. As a result, my conclusion was that the Coyote is not giving 12V to the fuel pump in the same way it is not giving 12V to the starter.

I also tested the circuit with the inertia switch pulled (open circuit) and the it does not power fuel pump. So I am also assuming this is wired correctly.

But let me know if I'm missing something here.


Have you checked the Coyote PDB fuses and relays? Unlikely to find anything. But need to cross that off the list. I highly doubt the harness itself is the issue. No easy way to troubleshoot.


Yes, checked fuses. But not relays. Suggestions on the best way to test relays? I will also research this point online.


- You mention scanning the ODB2 port. Will be interested to see if that shows anything. Is the MIL illuminated? Likely if there are codes it would be lit.


Here are the codes I got back:
P1289 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range
P2110 Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limited RPM
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0124 Throttle Pedal Position Sensor/Switch (TPS) A Circuit Intermittent
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch High Voltage



At the end of the day, Ford Performance may need to re-flash your PCM. Several have solved issues with this step. They have a process for returning to them and they get it right back to you. Don't know if that's changed or if it's as fast as the one day service they used to provide. But that could be in your future.

I called them and the only real thought the guy I spoke with had was to check the relay on the clutch pedal as he just had a guy with a bad relay. So my relay testing should be interesting. He actually gave me an email address frpp@ford.com and said to put the full story down with part numbers and they'll have good feedback/advice for me. So I'll keep you posted on that as well.

Thanks everyone!!

[JohnK]

FWIW - I've been in communication with FRPP recently about an issue I'm having. They're great on the phone, but completely non-responsive to e-mails. The guy I spoke with was very nice and knowledgable. He gave me his personal e-mail and asked me to send him some photos and additional info. After two days of no response I followed up with another e-mail. After another three days of no response I called him back. He had never even looked at my e-mails. Long story short- phone seems to be best with them.

[richtersand]

FWIW - I've been in communication with FRPP recently about an issue I'm having. They're great on the phone, but completely non-responsive to e-mails. The guy I spoke with was very nice and knowledgable. He gave me his personal e-mail and asked me to send him some photos and additional info. After two days of no response I followed up with another e-mail. After another three days of no response I called him back. He had never even looked at my e-mails. Long story short- phone seems to be best with them.

Wow that's disappointing. Thanks for the heads up.

[edwardb]

Sounds like your pump wiring is OK.

For the clutch switch, easy enough to jumper across the leads of the switch and eliminate the switch itself. In my experience, the clutch switch only prevents the engine from cranking. That's it. When the key is first turned to run, with or without the clutch pedal being pushed down, the fuel pump briefly powers and pressurizes the system. It will only crank if the pedal is down (switch closed) and key is turned to start. So any suggestion that your inoperative fuel pump and starter are because of the clutch switch, or even the relay in the PDB, is in my opinion not correct.

To check the relays in the PDB, I've not done anything terribly scientific. As I recall, there are multiples of the same relay in the panel. The couple times I've chased an issue and I wanted to cross this off the list, I switched positions of the same relay types. One pair at a time. And then checked to see if the problem still existed. The assumption being it's unlikely two have failed. This exercise never uncovered any issues for me. But still something to check.

That's quite a list of DTC's. I've not seen most of them. P2110, based on a search, is serious enough it could cause a no-start for safety reasons. At least according to a couple places I looked. Some of the others, again according to what I looked at, could cause a limp mode. But not a no-start. Have you tried clearing the codes and see if anything changes? Including the code(s) coming back. That's kind of a standard troubleshooting process. But you may want to talk to Ford before doing so. I think the risk is low. But maybe not everyone will agree with me.

[richtersand]

Interesting. I cleared the codes on the OBDII and it actually cranked over. Scared me! I killed it with the key because the kids are sleeping directly over the garage :rolleyes:

I tried clearing the codes three times. The first time, I got a something of a clank (or hard click) from the engine bay when I turned the key to START. I thought, well that's interesting. The second time it cranked over. The third time it clanked again. I am going to revisit Mark's idea to hot wire the starter to get the engine going and see what happens. More soon.

[michael everson]

The “clank” may be low voltage. Throw a charger on it.

[richtersand]

It’s alive!! When I clears the codes it clanked again and then started right up. Everything worked except the tach, no leaks to note. Great feeling!! And sounds MEAN!

I’m very happy that I didn’t have to tear the wiring apart.

Thanks everyone for your help troubleshooting! Really appreciate everyone’s insight and suggestions.


https://youtu.be/A4fxlLHxCBY

[edwardb]

Nice! Congratulations. If you aren't already, keep an eye on those codes. Will be interesting to see if any come back or if they were false positives. Also, your MIL should be lighting if they do. If you have Speedhut gauges, did you set the tach calibration? Assuming it's wired correctly into one of the coil packs, that's the most common reason builders have for the tach not working with the Coyote. Should be on the ".5 pulse" (1 pulse per 2 revolutions) setting.

[richtersand]

Nice! Congratulations. If you aren't already, keep an eye on those codes. Will be interesting to see if any come back or if they were false positives. Also, your MIL should be lighting if they do. If you have Speedhut gauges, did you set the tach calibration? Assuming it's wired correctly into one of the coil packs, that's the most common reason builders have for the tach not working with the Coyote. Should be on the ".5 pulse" (1 pulse per 2 revolutions) setting.

Thanks so much! Really appreciate your help.

No other MIL codes yet, although the light does come on still. I saw your other posts about it so maybe it’s just the dim light coming through on the LED.

I set the tach tonight so I’ll start it tomorrow and see if it fixed it.

[JohnK]

The MIL should flash brightly briefly when you move the key to the accessory position, before going to the dim glow.

[richtersand]

The MIL should flash brightly briefly when you move the key to the accessory position, before going to the dim glow.

Good to know, thanks.