MK2 Brake ID and Advise?

[svassh]

Not built by me but trying to understand what my current brake situation is and how I may improve it. Manual brakes and Power Steering, brakes are OK would like to not have to apply so much pressure for a hard stop. I believe what I have is standard PBR 99-04 GT brake calipers front and rear, with a Wilwood dual master cylinder. I believe I also have the standard donor Mustang brake/clutch pedal setup.

From what I have researched I have a couple options open to me:

1. Try Hawk brake pads for improved stopping power.
2. Convert to Hydroboost system, can't do Power Brakes easily as I have the 4x2 Webers with no vacuum provision.
3. Levy Racing has a 4 piston front and rear Wilwood setup, want to stay with my 15" wheels.

Any other options I haven't considered or advice?

152950152951152952152953

Apologies on the upside down photos.

[Gordon Levy]

OK, you have 2000 Mustang GT front brakes, 95 GT rear brakes, your master cylinder is fine and my kits are 4 piston front and rear for 15" wheels.

[nuhale]

Svassh-

You are correct on the brake setup you have. They are the 99 GT PBR. The rears are the same period and were used on both the GT and COBRA setups. I am in the throws of this so can help with a couple points:

1. I would give the HAWK HPS a go before you start going down the brake assist path. I HAVE A SET OF THESE PADS FOR YOUR FRONTS!! IM ME.
2. I had the same fronts and rears (I have hydroboost) and couldn't lock the wheels with Wagner pads. The HAWKS were such a difference. Absolutely night and day.
3. I just upgraded my fronts to the COBRA 13" rotors and COBRA style calipers with power stop pads. They came with it... I actually got better performance out of the GT setup with HAWK. I plan to upgrade the pads a down the road as it's not as bad as the Wagner's but definitely not the HAWK.

I'm going to do a writeup in my build thread later with my upgrade if it interests. I don't think this is an option for you with 15". They barely fit in my 17's.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Svassh,
BEFORE YOU GET TOO CAUGHT UP ON THE BRAKES FIX THAT BALL JOINT THAT HAS COME UNSCREWED FROM THE UPPER CONTROL ARM!!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152951&d=1630605838

:eek:

Something else to note is that the SN95 spindles are either installed using the wrong set of holes in the spindle adapter (should be in the 2nd and bottom for SN95 if they are 4 hole adapters) or have been assembled with 2 hole Fox adapters. In either case it results in some less than desirable suspension geometry.

Jeff

[svassh]

Svassh,
BEFORE YOU GET TOO CAUGHT UP ON THE BRAKES FIX THAT BALL JOINT THAT HAS COME UNSCREWED FROM THE UPPER CONTROL ARM!!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152951&d=1630605838

:eek:

Something else to note is that the SN95 spindles are either installed using the wrong set of holes in the spindle adapter (should be in the 2nd and bottom for SN95 if they are 4 hole adapters) or have been assembled with 2 hole Fox adapters. In either case it results in some less than desirable suspension geometry.

Jeff

Thanks for noticing Jeff, yes old picture that has been resolved (Balljoint) will look at the geometry but once I tightened that balljoint the front end is very stable and I can let of the wheel without asking Jesus to take it.

[David Williamson]

I know some tack weld the ball joint to keep it from coming loose but I drilled a 1/8 hole near the flat and put a roll pin in. Keeps it from coming loose and you can easily see if it has moved.
David W

[svassh]

I know some tack weld the ball joint to keep it from coming loose but I drilled a 1/8 hole near the flat and put a roll pin in. Keeps it from coming loose and you can easily see if it has moved.
David W

Thanks David, good idea my welding skills are suspect.

[jts359]

I also have a recently purchased MKII and my brakes needed improvement . I replaced all the rubber brake lines with braided lines and I replaced the brake pads with Power stop , There was a great improvement but there is still room from for improvement , But what I did notice in your pictures is one of our cars has the front shocks are installed backwards ! My shocks are installed 180 from yours , The rears are the same , Maybe some one will chime in here or I'll start another thread, Ed

[tonywy]

Another issue I see is the rear springs took a set, they should not rub the shock body. Hyperco is a good source for springs, easily ordered for Summit.

[CraigS]

Hawk HPS or HPS5.0 will help. Hawk HP+ will really help but they dust more. I use this
https://www.armorall.com/products/wheels/brake-dust-repellent
And I have a small shop vac w/ a brush on the end of the hose that is dedicated as a wheel cleaner.
To get more rear brake w/o needing a double MC balance bar setup, use HP+ on the back and HPS5.0 on the front. BTW the HPS is their older compound and the HPS5.0 the newer. They both work nearly identically but some applications only one or the other is available.

[thebicman]

As long as we are all pointing out some safety issues. The front brake line needs to be secured at the bracket. Not just passing through it. With the brake issues I have been using Hawk pads and have had no issues stopping a manual brake setup.

[JimN]

Can't you go with a 1/8" smaller master cylinder? Has anyone tried this?

[mike223]

Can't you go with a 1/8" smaller master cylinder? Has anyone tried this?

Yes.

OP needs to establish what size the existing MC is.

I'm running SN95 brakes with a 21mm MC + 4:1 pedal.

I could not be happier - special pads not required.

Autozone NM1907 for the MC - I think that's off something like a 1982 Granada with manual brakes.

Works great = perfect feel + pressure (for me).

[CraigS]

Yes you could go w/ a smaller MC to get the MC to caliper piston area ratio you need BUT.... then you won't have enough MC to move the required amount of brake fluid. 3/4 front and 5/8 rear are the common sizes that work well.