Anybody familiar with Butcher Block Countertops?

[NiceGuyEddie]

I'm doing a down-to-the-studs kitchen remodel and it's almost time to buy my countertops. There are a lot of how-to videos online regarding sealing butcher blocks with with NSF approved oil, staining it, or both.

Great instructions with the finishing oil - once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then twice a year. OR - it could be treated with poly. Etc., etc.

The appearance I'm looking for is slightly-darker-than-natural. The problem is I don't know what material to start with and how to get there. I'm also not sure if butcher block darkens over time.

The online selections from say Home Depot or Lowes are Red Oak, Acacia, Baltic Birch, European Ash, and others.

Any advice regarding the entire installation is welcome.

152715

[Ducky2009]

If you're actually going to use the counter top as a cutting board, don't poly it.

[Papa]

Probably good advice not to poly if using as a kitchen countertop, but here are a couple of pictures of the countertop I did for my wife's craft room with poly over un-stained oak.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152716&d=1629936484

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152717&d=1629936484

I bought the top from Lumber Liquidators in a 12' length and cut it down to 10' for the room I did. The poly is about eight coats sanding between each coat to get a nice smooth surface.

https://www.llflooring.com/c/butcher-block-counter-tops/

[jts359]

My Dad was a butcher for 40 years and worked for A&P. They had to remove all butcher blocks because they could'nt be properly cleaned , He's 97 now so this was quite while ago , Ed

[RedRaider58]

I made an island with a hard maple butcher block top for my last house. I bought the wood from a local woodworking supplier and he kinda thought I was nuts for buying large pieces of wood to then cut into 2" strips to glue back together, maybe he was right. I used Watco clear butcher block oil from HD for the protectant and it gave more of a glossy finish, nearly looked like poly. I reapplied the Watco every quarter or when it started to look "raw". One thing to keep in mind is that your wood will grow/shrink with humidity and temperature changes and you need to allow for this so it doesn't crack. There are multiple ways to do this, I used some clips.

We used the top for about 3 years before moving and cut everything other than raw meat on it (sanitation as mentioned earlier). It was really nice to not have to get a cutting board out. I never really noticed any change in the coloring, always a natural look, the only change was the marks from the knife. The knife marks would fade a bit when the Watco was reapplied though.

[JohnK]

A while back I was doing some research on butcher block tops and came across this site that offered quite an array of different finishes.

https://hardwood-lumber.com/wood-finishes/

I never ordered from them so can't speak to their quality or pricing, but I found the site pretty helpful in understanding all the different finishing options out there for butcher block tops.

[Norm B]

Our island countertop is butcher block while the rest of the countertops are granite. Makes a nice contrast. It is treated with butcher block oil. It is safe for food prep and prevents staining. It does slightly darken the wood and make any grain standout better. Should be retreated a couple of times in a year. Just wipe it on with a clean rag, let it sit for a bit, then wipe of the excess with a dry rag. Don’t use the countertop for 24 hours after treating.
Don’t throw the rags in the garbage. Spontaneous combustion has been known to happen. I burn mine in the outdoor fire pit.

HTH

Norm

[frd2]

I bet the oil folks are using is mineral oil - about the only oil that is food safe and won't turn rancid when exposed to air.

Contact Boos butcher blocks in Effingham IL. You see their cutting boards on every food network cooking show. They sell different materials depending on the circumstances.

Greg

[NiceGuyEddie]

The photos of the OAK above is about what I want. I will skip on the poly - makes sense that's not the best for a kitchen.

The only cutting I will do is on a cutting board I will make from the scrap from the sink cutout. I have one of those sinks that have the ledge to fit a cutting board inside the sink.

The island, which is on wheels will be Caesarstone, maybe a quartz or marble color.

I will have one mitered corner with a 15 inch "L" and I'm sure I can join the edge with a Craigs Jig and pocket screws.

The only thing that makes me nervous is the sink cutout - I hope I can get it straight with consistent curves for the corners. Regarding the curved corners, I've never had good luck with a jig saw. Even a brand-new blade always seems to be flimsy, and never seems to cut perfectly square to the top surface.

EDIT: It's an under-mount sink so the sink cutout is visible.

EDIT AGAIN: Look at the attached picture. Maybe the corners of the sink cutout don't need to be rounded after all, or at least not as rounded as I was originally picturing in my mind.


152727

[JohnK]

Drill the four corners with a bit of whatever radius you want, then connect the four holes with the jig saw.

[Norm B]

I would make the corners with a fine tooth hole saw and cut up to them with a good blade on a circular saw with a good guide. Cut from the top and just until you touch the hole then finish the cut with a hand saw. To prevent splintering on the cross cuts score the wood with a sharp utility knife along the outside of the intended cut. Rough sand off any imperfections then put a 1/4 radius on the top of the opening with a router then finish sand.

Practice this on scrap first until you’re comfortable with the technique required. The tricky part is the plunge cuts with the circular saw.

I can’t recall seeing an under mount sink in a butcher block countertop. The edges of the wood are going to get a lot of water contact and get beat up from dishes going in and out of the sink (or at least they would at my house).


Good Luck

Norm

[tony]

I've done two butcherblock tops. I've used waterlox on both of them and have been very happy with the results of it. It keeps it looking nice for a long time. I applied about 5 coats each time.

[NiceGuyEddie]

OK - the good news is due to my layout, I need to buy (2) 8' pieces. If I screw up the cutout for the sink, I can always cut it and use that section for the short side of the "L".

[Robodent]

I installed butcher block 6 years ago . My buddy has a counter top shop . I purchased them in slabs the back splash you can get already cut in 4”x 8’ lengths. The inside corners are tough that’s why my buddy cut it out for me . He added biscuits and a screw mechanism underneath to tighten up the 45 degree area but that takes work with a router underneath the top . Joe did all my cut work and I installed them myself. Easy peasy just use silicone to glue them down. I use mineral oil to freshen them up . Yes the more work you do oiling then the darker they get . Sun pays a factor as well it dries out the wood faster. 152745

[Lidodrip]

I like to use Tried and True Varnish Oil - https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/varnish-oil/. It is a penetrating linseed oil that brings out the grain and adds depth, safe as a countertop finish. If you need some extra protection you can add a few coats of wipe on satin poly - it will still keep the hand rubbed finish look.

I also like Waterlox too, it is a more durable finish that can be spot refinished if needed. I find the original formula better than the low VOC.

[KDubU]

The photos of the OAK above is about what I want. I will skip on the poly - makes sense that's not the best for a kitchen.

The only cutting I will do is on a cutting board I will make from the scrap from the sink cutout. I have one of those sinks that have the ledge to fit a cutting board inside the sink.

The island, which is on wheels will be Caesarstone, maybe a quartz or marble color.

I will have one mitered corner with a 15 inch "L" and I'm sure I can join the edge with a Craigs Jig and pocket screws.

The only thing that makes me nervous is the sink cutout - I hope I can get it straight with consistent curves for the corners. Regarding the curved corners, I've never had good luck with a jig saw. Even a brand-new blade always seems to be flimsy, and never seems to cut perfectly square to the top surface.

EDIT: It's an under-mount sink so the sink cutout is visible.

EDIT AGAIN: Look at the attached picture. Maybe the corners of the sink cutout don't need to be rounded after all, or at least not as rounded as I was originally picturing in my mind.


152727

I really like butcher block counter tops and was looking at walnut with maple coming in second. One thing though, I would highly suggest you have the right type of sink for it or you surround your sink with stone of some form about 12” out on both sides. The reason is no matter the protection you use, water and wood just don’t do well together long term. You can definitely have butcher block right up to a sink but you need to be proactive such as drying up any standing water/drips on it, put soap dispenser in a dish of some form, not directly on the wood itself (see pic below), etc. You will need to oil at least twice a year but that is the easy part of things so no worries there.

152752

Pic above came from this blog that actually details out the concerns and how to go about cutting your corners, etc.

https://abeautifulmess.com/diy-butcher-block-counters-with-undermount-sink/

[slarson]

I just put butcher block counters in our condo in North Carolina. Natural Birch butcher block counter top from Lowe's and Waterlox Satin finish. Great finish and easy to apply.
152751

[Lickity-Split]

Several years ago I had Michigan Maple Block Co make up some custom sized maple counter tops for our kitchen. I finished it with their "Good Stuff". My wife has been very happy with the finish.

https://www.butcherblock.com/products/residential-products/maintenance-and-care/

[Blitzboy54]

I installed BB in my kitchen remodel on the breakfast bar. It was pennies on the dollar compared to granite. It has held up well. I oiled it once and have not needed to touch it since. I used the left overs (comes 26" cut it down to 18") and made a cutting board.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153950&d=1633024040

[tony]

I love that people are big fans of butcherblock. I always thought I was an outlier because we've had it in our homes.

[NiceGuyEddie]

I will be ordering the butcher block countertops very soon. They are made of Baltic Birch.

I have a different sink now and it's an undermount sink, but the butcher block won't over-hang over the sink so I don't have to worry about the bottom exposed edge.

There is a waterjet place that we use at work - they will experiment with a scrap of the butcher block that is 1-3/4" thick. If it cuts well, I'll use them to cut the hole for my sink.

I will update with pictures as I go along, my goal is to have running water again by Thanksgiving.

[NiceGuyEddie]

I installed BB in my kitchen remodel on the breakfast bar. It was pennies on the dollar compared to granite. It has held up well. I oiled it once and have not needed to touch it since. I used the left overs (comes 26" cut it down to 18") and made a cutting board.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153950&d=1633024040

It makes absolute sense to have granite for a countertop and butcher block for an eating surface. I can't believe that people eat off of cold, rock-like surfaces like granite or marble. The dishes clank, the wine glasses clank, it's cold, and your food will even cool faster if a plate is put on a granite eating surface. Every restaurant I've even been to in my entire life had a wooden table, some with a tablecloth, most without. Sometimes it's a laminated table, but underneath is some type of wood or particle board.

I will have an island on wheels for prepping, and that island will have either granite or quartz. The rest of the kitchen will be butcherblock, including the eating surfaces.

[NiceGuyEddie]

154055

It took a very long time to find something like this. It looks like I will go with the Birch and mineral oil.

[Blitzboy54]

The best part is no matter what you do you are a belt sander and away from a complete reset. I have no regrets about using it. Best of luck and share some pics when done.

[NiceGuyEddie]

154685154686154687

I could not find the birch with square edges, it seems to only be available with factory-rounded edges. So that means if I did a butt joint on the "L", there would be a gulley where dirt and crud could live.

So I decided to do a miter joint in the corner and at the minimum, I think it will look better. My only concern is if I can cut two 45° angles true enough to have both parts line up properly. The pieces come in 8' and 4', so what I plan to do is cut the 45° angles first and then cut the square side to length. This way, I will have several chances at getting the miters correct.

The good news is the short side of the "L" isn't very long so as long as the miter line is flush I will be OK.

I have a framing square and a BORA circular saw track guide so I'm sure the lines will be straight, my only fear is will the cuts be at a 90º angle to the top.

[Papa]

You might reach out to your local big-box home improvement stores to see if they would be willing to do the cuts for you on one of their large saws.

[RBachman]

I have rock maple counter tops in my woodworking shop and like them. However, make sure that you get a wood that is hard enough for the application so that dings, dents, scrapes, etc. do not cause excessive or unwanted wear.

[NiceGuyEddie]

You might reach out to your local big-box home improvement stores to see if they would be willing to do the cuts for you on one of their large saws.

This is a great idea - until recently, for some strange reason the Lowes store near me didn't have a panel saw and could not cut down things such as 4'x8' plywood. The Home Depot near me always had a panel saw but I rarely shop there because it is not air conditioned. It's an older Home Depot, but when it's +100° I'll drive another half mile to Lowes.

I am not sure the panel saw cuts 45º angles but I will ask.

[NiceGuyEddie]

I have rock maple counter tops in my woodworking shop and like them. However, make sure that you get a wood that is hard enough for the application so that dings, dents, scrapes, etc. do not cause excessive or unwanted wear.

Believe it or not, I am trying for a lived-in look. The kitchen is to be new but look like grandma's house. For example, I have unfinished brass hardware and I'm going to let it tarnish.

[NiceGuyEddie]

GUYS:

Dumb question: I have a router that I used only once to trim laminate edges on the countertop that I made 17 years ago. With a long bit, can the cutout for the sink be cut with a router? I imagine I'd have to go real, real slow but I am not sure if this would work. I found zillions of videos on YouTube about cutting dado's and rabbits, but nothing like cutting out a hole for a sink.

The butcherblock is 1.75", I see they sell 2" router bits.

[NiceGuyEddie]

155265

I can't believe how much these things weigh! They are 8' in length and for some strange reason, they were shipped directly to my doorstep. If they were loaded to my truck at the store pickup it would have been easy to slide them off the truck and onto my work table. It was a bear schlepping them inside.

Lead time was only 2 weeks directly from somewhere in Northern Europe.

[GWL]

GUYS:

Dumb question: I have a router that I used only once to trim laminate edges on the countertop that I made 17 years ago. With a long bit, can the cutout for the sink be cut with a router? I imagine I'd have to go real, real slow but I am not sure if this would work. I found zillions of videos on YouTube about cutting dado's and rabbits, but nothing like cutting out a hole for a sink.

The butcherblock is 1.75", I see they sell 2" router bits.

Eddie,

Use a scroll saw to rough out the hole leaving only about a 1/4" of material. Then make an exact template out of 1/2" medium density fiber board. Clamp the template to the butcherblock in the exact location you want it to be. Using the router and a top bearing 1/2" straight bit (see below) follow the template with the bearing in a clockwise direction making about 1/4 - 3/8" depth cuts. You can make a series of shallow cuts eventually using the previous cut butcherblock as the template. You'll find you can remove the template once you get down into the block about 3/8" again then using the previous router cuts as your new template. Again, make shallow cuts.

When making the template, cut out the hole as close to the cut line as possible with the scroll saw. Use a new blade so the blade with not wander under your cut. Then use a wood file and sanding block to get it exact to the line. If you make a mistake and cut past the line you can make up a mix of epoxy and saw dust to fill in the mistake and file and sand it to the line.

Use a bit with a 1/2" shank bit similar to this one: https://www.rockler.com/rockler-pattern-flush-trim-bits-for-plunge-routers

Are you still going to make 45 cuts? If so and you want some pictures of my recent project out of the same butcherblock, PM me with your email and I can send you a bunch of pictures of the almost finished project in our laundry room and the way I attached the 45's together.

George

[GWL]

Eddie,

I read a few more posts and can give you some ideas about cutting the 45's. You don't need a special saw guide just a straight edge and a few clamps and using a 1/8" kerf blade in your circular saw will do. The 1/8" kerf is so the blade will not wander as easily as a 1/16" blade. When you do make the cuts you need to be cutting into the wood with material on both sides of the cut. If you make a mistake and want to make another cut, again you should be into the wood so there is material on both sides of the blade. Make the 45's the priority cut and then cut them to length later with a 90 cut. I ended up doing this several times until I got my cuts just right and my corner was not exactly 90 thus the cuts were not 45's.

How long is the long 45?

What are you using for your back splash? Home Depot sells them in the Baltic Birch too.

George

[mikeinatlanta]

Glad I read this thread. Getting ready to do granite counter tops and just bought a 10' piece of maple butcher block for the bar top. Never really thought about mixing materials before. I hate cold plates and this is a perfect solution for a bar top.

[Jeff33Ford]

This is a table I made. Rough cut the edges with a grinder then used a torch to burn areas for color differences. I put a piece of granite in the middle for hot plates.
155467

[NiceGuyEddie]

157937157938157939157940157941

UPDATE:

Thanks all for the information, advice, and encouragement. I was stressing out over the cutout for the sink because I have a flush-mounted, undermount sink and the lines have to be spot-on. The 8’ section of countertop is $325 and if I screwed up piece would be totally wasted.

First, the mistakes:
When I used the jig saw to finish the line to the corners, the center section did not drop out. Why? I forgot to set the saw blade low enough to cut through the whole thing and I had another 1/8” to go. I had to plunge-cut all four sides twice and fortunately, the lines were still straight.

I kept the saw in one place for too long and it burned a circle in the side of the wood. I was for the most part able to sand out the burn.

What went right:
Practicing, I found a traditional hole saw worked best for the corners. A spade bit did not work well, and curving a jig saw around the corner did not work well for me either. For the holes, I erred 1/32” inward, and it turns out the radius of the holes are right on the line.

I purchased a brand-new circular saw and used an aftermarket, fine-toothed blade.

What I did not know:
Using a saw guide or even a straight edge to run the saw next to did not help. It turned out it was best to scribe a right angle to your line, use that to set the front of the saw, and plunge-cut while watching the line carefully. Of course, err in the side of caution and saw 1/32” inward to the line.

I also learned treating virgin butcher block with Mineral Spirits is WILDLY satisfying.

A fine-toothed saw blade results in fine wood dust! I myself was covered after every cut and had to clean up the patio after every cut – fine sawdust is slippery!

I will update once the sink is in.

[NiceGuyEddie]

Eddie,

You don't need a special saw guide just a straight edge and a few clamps and using a 1/8" kerf blade in your circular saw will do. The 1/8" kerf is so the blade will not wander as easily as a 1/16" blade.

How long is the long 45?

George

I missed this tip, I will buy a 1/8" Kerf blade for the 45. the countertop is 25" so whatever length diagonal Chief Soh Cah Toa calculates to.... it will probably be about 36".

[cob427sc]

I would recommend sealing the singe edges with something as the moisture in this area will eventually stain the wood and over the long term the wood will swell and delaminate. This is from my own experience with a maple butcherblock and an undermount sink. We finished the counter with a recommended oil finish rubbed into the wood and touched up most every month but the continued splash, etc at the sink edges caused damage in less than a year. Refinished and sealed the entire top, bottom and edges with a flat polyurethane (3 coats) and finish has lasted over 4 years.

[NiceGuyEddie]

Well the good news is since it's an undermount sink the edges are flush with the sink and there is no exposed wood "under" the countertop and only the vertical faces are visible. The home is also a bit of a pied-à-terre and the sink is not used frequently. I plan to use lots and lots of mineral oil and I am confident the countertop will last longer than I will.

In any case, I am kind of obsessed with future-proofing so I will make the countertop easily removable. Instructions say to not use any adhesive to secure the countertop, use only brackets with slots that will allow the wood to expand and contract a bit.

[NiceGuyEddie]

158350158349158348158351

Well of all the things I planned, drew in CAD, mocked up, measured, measured twice, left room for, and dry fit, I never fully mocked up the faucet. Turns out it's made for a countertop of maximum thickness of 1-1/4". I did use the black nut to see where to put the holes, but the nipple on the faucet is too short and longer ones are not available.

It of course would have been very easy to route 1/4" of that section out, but now that the sink is screwed and glued in place it's going to be a challenge to remove some material.

P.S. I was told years ago do NOT use Teflon™ tape if the connections are straight pipe with the rubber bushings inside.

[ztoolman44]

158350158349158348158351

Well of all the things I planned, drew in CAD, mocked up, measured, measured twice, left room for, and dry fit, I never fully mocked up the faucet. Turns out it's made for a countertop of maximum thickness of 1-1/4". I did use the black nut to see where to put the holes, but the nipple on the faucet is too short and longer ones are not available.

It of course would have been very easy to route 1/4" of that section out, but now that the sink is screwed and glued in place it's going to be a challenge to remove some material.

P.S. I was told years ago do NOT use Teflon™ tape if the connections are straight pipe with the rubber bushings inside.

Couple of options-

1. Trace around the black plastic nut, remove the fixture and then carve the 1/4" out with a Dremel.
2. Use a hole saw the size of the black piece to cut a second hole but only 1/4" deep then chisel out the donut. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOUfFaIJUqo
3. Chisel all the way. It would take time and some good chisels but its possible.

I would not use teflon tape on a gasketed hose.

Matt

[NiceGuyEddie]

That is a very clever trick to re-use the plug as guide for a larger hole saw. But the plug will be a bit under-sized to the existing hole, so it might bounce around. If the palm router won't go far enough to the sink, I might try this:

Clamp a board on the bottom of the butcher block.
Drill from the top with the existing hole saw to get the guide hole.
Drill the guide hole all the way through.
Flip upside-down, use a larger hole saw and go about 1/4 deep into the butcherblock.

I hope I will be able to chip away the rest with the surface relatively even. but I have plenty of scraps to practice on.

[Papa]

Use one of these...

Starrett KA19-N"Oops" Arbor, Hole Enlargement Arbor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HOLS2WU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TD4GH19KG27JYH10S8SE

[ztoolman44]

That is a very clever trick to re-use the plug as guide for a larger hole saw. But the plug will be a bit under-sized to the existing hole, so it might bounce around. If the palm router won't go far enough to the sink, I might try this:

Clamp a board on the bottom of the butcher block.
Drill from the top with the existing hole saw to get the guide hole.
Drill the guide hole all the way through.
Flip upside-down, use a larger hole saw and go about 1/4 deep into the butcherblock.

I hope I will be able to chip away the rest with the surface relatively even. but I have plenty of scraps to practice on.

If your pilot bit is long enough that will work or you can wrap some masking tape around the plug to replace the kerf and make it the correct size.

[NiceGuyEddie]

158384158385158386

I lucked out here.


Scrap from the 1-1/2" thick butcher block shelf was just tall enough to get the router butt high enough to clear the 2nd step in the sink flange.
With the router all the way down on the setting and with the 1" milling bit I already had it removed just enough material.
I finished off the very rear with a chisel, it took only 30 seconds.



I accidentally made a few divots when one side of the butt fell "off the ledge" but I eventually figured out you can turn it to a 45° angle.

Overall, it's "good enough for rock and roll", I'm just mad at myself for not figuring this out earlier as it would have been very easy to mill out before the sink was installed.

I can't wait to have running water, it's been over a year!

The next challenge will be the 45º cut on the other countertop.

[NiceGuyEddie]

158579158580158581

It came out pretty much perfect! The next and last challenge of the entire remodel will be the 45º miter on the other cabinet.

I have not been able to find a 7-1/4" blade with a 1/8" kerf except for this one. It isn't very fine and it's made for heavy-duty demo so I'm not sure it's good for a clean, straight line on a butcherblock countertop:

https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Carbide-Cutting-Demolition-Circular/dp/B000K28UHI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=7-1%2F4%22+blade+1%2F8%22+kerf&qid=1639424073&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOEk2V1RGSDFXMkQ4J mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIyNDE3MjgxWlgwNDgwTU9NVCZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDAyOTE2MlRTMzNXN0NaWEs4USZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[frankeeski]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158588&d=1639466305

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-7-1-4-in-x-60-Tooth-Fine-Finish-Circular-Saw-Blade-D0760R/100627136?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000086134205-58700007341211177-92700065813629870&msclkid=b88fa52d6bd71d983309c4952f9f528d&gclid=b88fa52d6bd71d983309c4952f9f528d&gclsrc=3p.ds

[GWL]

Eddie,

I must apologize. As I now remember, I went looking for an 1/8” blade but could not find one. I ended up buying a Sears/Craftsmen blade, 7-1/4”, 60 tooth with a .088” kerf. This blade is made for crosscutting. The cut you will be making will be sort of in between a rip and crosscut.

I found this blade (the one above that Frank is recommending) that actually is a thinner blade than the one I got. Maybe I was looking for the thickest blade I could find. Note the blades (Frank's) specifications state the following:

• Laser-cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration and stabilize the blade

• Laser-cut heat expansion slots allow blade to expand due to heat build-up, keeping the cut true and straight

• Kerf thickness is 0.059in.

Make your cut from the bottom of the countertop with the blade extended as far out of the bottom of the saw base as you can getting the arbor close to the wood surface. The teeth will be cutting up into the top/wood making for a cleaner/sharper cut on the top surface. The bottom, which you are seeing as you cut, may see some chips as the teeth come up out of the wood but that will not matter. Remember, again, to make your cut so there is wood on both sides of the blade and move slowly helping to keep the blade from wandering or reverberating. Let the teeth do the cutting without pushing the saw. Position yourself so you can make the cut in one smooth run without stopping. I ended up making several cuts until I got it right. You can make the 90º cut at the other end when cutting it to its final length. The goal is to get that 45º cuts first. I don’t think my corner was a perfect 90º so my cut was not a perfect 45º. It was because of a bulge in one of the walls. Any small variance can be hidden by the back splash trim piece.

When setting up your blade to the saw base get it to a perfect 90º. Make some test cuts and check those cuts with a good try square to see if they are at 90º. I use small machinist squares to do this.

I used these Tite Joint Fasteners (see first picture below) to bring and hold the joint together. I also used a biscuit cutter and biscuits to keep the top surface level with each other. I did not use any glue.

I got my joint fasteners at Lowes.

When finishing, I put on at least 3 coats sanding between each coat using 220 with the grain. I only put two coats on the bottom. You’ve got to work fast brushing into the finish already applied.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744602567_85fb0ecb0f_w.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mQuBA8)27037-02-1000_1 (https://flic.kr/p/2mQuBA8) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr

https://www.rockler.com/tite-joint-fastener?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNOjyMs67T49jxQq0aew98G4Cw0yEKm8Z_QX opXICU81QDEgzXnguwRoCnlkQAvD_BwE

My countertop finished
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745423561_eb06cfa55c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mQyPDc)IMG_0805 (https://flic.kr/p/2mQyPDc) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr
Two underside shots of the countertop

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51746282590_f3516fedf1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mQDe13)IMG_0458 (https://flic.kr/p/2mQDe13) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51746040884_c9f37ee9bc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mQBZ9G)IMG_0457 (https://flic.kr/p/2mQBZ9G) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr

George

[NiceGuyEddie]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZEU0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The blade Frank recommended is the exact blade I have, it's really, really thin though.

George:

The idea of putting the blade as far down as possible (saw high up) so the cutting plane is as close as possible to the center arbor makes a lot of sense, never thought of that, nor did I see that tip anywhere on YouTube.

I went to the store and indeed, a Craftsman blade was the thickest I saw at-a-glance. I'll pick one up.

To hold everything together, I have a Kreg Jig HD with uge screws, but the dogbone fasteners might be better, since you have a change to move both pieces around and be sure they are flush. Once that screw from the Kreg Jig goes in, you're screwed, pun intended.

I don't have a biscuit cutter, so my plan is to use a few dogbone fasteners, glue, let it set 24 hours. I'll have a few extra Kreg HD pockets set up. Per the Kreg instructions, they will be about 75º to the cutting plane, and opposing each other. The short part of my "L" is only 18" on the short side so I think all of this will work.

Your cuts look just right, I hope mine come out just as good and that's the last hurdle with my remodel!

[GWL]

Eddie,
You can make several slots along the cut with a router and grove cutting bit referencing the grove cut from the top of the countertop. Make your own biscuits on the table saw with the grain running perpendicular to the 45º cut.

George

[NiceGuyEddie]

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After 5 or 6 failed attempts, I realized this miter cut would never be perfect. For some strange reason, there was always a bow (gap) in the middle. The saw seemed to stall just a bit in the center section – it’s not because of compression in the wood, because the cut-off edge was always hanging free. No idea what happened. The shorter section of butcher block was arched a bit so there would always be a high spot.

I took all the different advice and tried a few things – it turns out the best miter lines were made by running the saw on the top and in the same direction. I used painter’s tape and the wood did not chip, even though the blade is chipping away from the top and not into it. I guess the most important thing is the inside corner and outside corner came together, and the leg is almost exactly 90°.
Turned out there was no difference in the fine-tooth and the wider blade that was less fine. The only difference was the sawdust – MAN – it’s common sense now, but a fine-tooth saw blade makes really, really, fine sawdust – just like you were cutting MDF.

The gap was about 1/16” at its worst and I filled it with wood putty and sawdust. I’m currently sanding down the high spot on the shorter leg. I’ll have more details a bit later. I need to rush, because you are supposed to soak the wood with mineral oil within 48 hours of breaking the plastic seal.

I’ll provide details of how I joined the boards later on.

[mikeinatlanta]

Are you using a guide for your saw?

[NiceGuyEddie]

Yes, I used a guide for the saw. I didn't have any luck with the BORA track system, the one where you attach your saw to a plate and then to a track. It came out OK but not great. Best results was with a framing square, clamps, and using the track as an edge guide. I will have photos soon.

[NiceGuyEddie]

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I was wrong.

Turned out it COULD and DID come out perfect! The sanding wasn’t that bad and everything is perfectly smooth. Visible at most is a very faint line of wood filler.

For the bottom, I used two dog-bone fasteners and two heavy-duty pocket screws at opposing angles. I also used wood glue – I understand the idea of biscuits and “floating” pieces but the short leg of the “L” is only 12” and I can’t imagine anything bad could happen.

I never used a wood-boring type hole saw before and I never even knew they existed. It worked flawlessly. It seems obvious now, but for the straight rabbits I should have clamped a framing square to the edge to get a straight line with the router, but I guess it doesn’t matter.

I’ll post another photo once the last countertop piece is installed. I still have the tile backsplashes to do, but it’s been over a year and I can finally put the stove back and have a fully-functioning kitchen again!

[mikeinatlanta]

Great to hear. Finished my butcher block bar yesterday and expect countertops Monday. Like you backsplash and done.

[NiceGuyEddie]

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Total cost was under $800 - the estimate for quartz was $5,500 installed and I would have had to take care of the under-mount sink AFTER they installed the countertop. The price for quartz did however include inserts for the sink mounting hardware.

I have a small island that's on wheels which currently has scraps on it, and I plan for quartz on that one only (maybe.)

[mikeinatlanta]

You think quartz is bad, my wife chose quartzite. About 2.5 times the price. Woman has expensive taste.

[NiceGuyEddie]

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OK - that's it for this round. Very happy with the results. Thanks for all the help. What's left is:

1. Tile Backslpashes (subway tile left, brick over stove area)
2. New Range (the one I have is ugly I think)
3. Microwave drawer (effing expensive)
4. Quartz Countertop for the island, which is on wheels

[mikeinatlanta]

Wheels for the island, good call. What's the plan for your backsplash?

[JDFinley]

That counter top came out very nice - love the look! Well done!

[NiceGuyEddie]

Thanks for the compliments, I'm very happy with it. The island is normal IKEA cabinets and are on a strong frame. There are eight (8) of them. ONE PROBLEM? I purchased what was called "soft urethane wheels that don't mar the floor." One of them seemed to have flattened out a bit and when you roll the island it goes dunk, dunk, dunk ;)

The back-side of the island cabinets has a removable wooden panel. I plan to tile it with something bold, and if in the event the trend changes it can be changed out.

Plan for the backsplash is white subway tile on the left, and brick on the stove wall. The brick will match my new fireplace brick in the adjoining room and also the brick floor in my front mudroom.

The theme for the kitchen has always been "Grandma's modern kitchen." As much as I would have loved to do something bolder, I have to consider resale and have a design that is as timeless as possible. Butcher block countertops have been around for longer than anyone on this forum has been alive and I don't expect them to ever go out of style.

[NiceGuyEddie]

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Lessons learned: The island, which is on wheels and pushed away in the photo, will be quartz. It's only 12 square feet, and there is typically a minimum charge of 25 square foot of material. I'm looking at $1700 for the quartz island countertop. It would have only been a few hundred more to do the countertops in quartz and the island in butcher block.

To Come: A retro-looking range (the current one reminds me of the 90s) and a new microwave, built into the cubby hole. Both are OK for now.

I'm poking around for a store that will simply cut me a remnant of quartz and bullnose the edges for me. Hopefully that'll be less than $1,700

Thanks for all the help, I really love this countertop!

[egchewy79]

Looks nice. I'm sure you can browse through the "bone yard" at a stone place to find 12sqft of quartz. I did that when doing a bathroom remodel and needed a new top for the vanity. They'll finish the edge as well.

[Cobradavid]

Looks great!

[NiceGuyEddie]

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I visited yet another stone countertop place looking for a 2'x6' white quartz or marble remnant and the guy told me you can make a countertop from white concrete.

After fiddling around with YouTube I was amazed that you can even paint in lines with grey concrete dye. Make a form upside-down with Melamine board.
Wet sand the whole thing, seal it up. looks like I can do the whole thing for less than $100.

The house is in Chino, not Calabassas, so it's going to be good enough for me.

Lessons learned!

[NiceGuyEddie]

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It's finished. Clever things such as lights that go on when you open the drawers. My favorite part of it is there are no kick-panels - the wood flooring goes all the way back to the wall.

This isn't my first choice in interiors but it was done to be as timeless as possible.

I hope to get a better-looking stove and a real built-in microwave some day.