New Life For An 'Old' MK1 Roadster.

[mabbott74]

Hello FFR community. I picked up a MK1 Roadster back in August of 2020 and have been S L O W L Y working on getting it across the finish line. The car was purchased by a colorful hippie-biker-deadhead-philosopher as a project for he and his brother back in the late 90's. The guys shows up 30 minutes late to our meet in a crazy , twin turboed, rat rod pickup, laying rubber all the way up his driveway. After showing my wife and I around his place we go to his buddy's shop where the car is stored. 'Just around the corner' turns into a 20+ minute car ride out into the middle of nowhere without any cell service. This is pretty much how every episode of 'Unsolved Mysteries' starts. Obviously we didn't disappear and the guy turned out to be a really interesting character. He had a ton of other projects going and lost interest in the Roadster when his brother passed from cancer. We settled on a price and the details. A week later I hitched up the truck and trailer and made the 3 hour trek to East Tennessee to claim my prize.

The further I've dug in the more I realize that I have my work cut out for me. What I thought was going to be a quick build is anything but. When I purchased the car it was running and titled in Tennessee but definitely not road worthy. In some ways it may have been easier to start from scratch. But there is something cool about breathing new life into old broken things.

I appreciate the FFR community and look forward to sharing my journey and gleaning your wisdom. Thanks for stopping by.

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[Blitzboy54]

Just awesome! Really looking forward to it

[mabbott74]

Snag #1. The rear wheels were 'spaced' out with washers to clear the quad shocks. At best I had 3 threads per lug nuts. So off with the quad shocks and we'll see how bad the wheel hop is. I upgraded the 4 link control arms and got set of Koni's from FFR so hopefully with the stock 302 that will do the trick. If not I will have to look at a 3 link upgrade. It took some time to get everything during Covid but I have all the parts and I'll post some pics when I get everything installed. I had an issue with the coil springs not seating on the hats but FFR customer service was very helpful and got things sorted out.

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[johnnybgoode]

Congrats! I've been working on my MKII for 10 years (all while it's been on the road). It never really ends. That's part of the beauty of the hobby. Enjoy! Scott

[johnnybgoode]

Snag #1. The rear wheels were 'spaced' out with washers to clear the quad shocks. At best I had 3 threads per lug nuts. So off with the quad shocks and we'll see how bad the wheel hop is. I upgraded the 4 link control arms and got set of Koni's from FFR so hopefully with the stock 302 that will do the trick. If not I will have to look at a 3 link upgrade. It took some time to get everything during Covid but I have all the parts and I'll post some pics when I get everything installed. I had an issue with the coil springs not seating on the hats but FFR customer service was very helpful and got things sorted out.

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With upgraded control arms and the Koni coil-overs, you should be able to ditch the quad shocks, stock springs, and safety straps. The other four-link guys may also want to chime in. I've got a 3-link with QA1's and Breeze LCA's which rides and handles great. It's a nice upgrade if you decide to go that way. Scott

[mburger]

As the owner of a Mk1, I always enjoy seeing others giving the old girls a little love.

[R. Button]

Just a note on the safety straps in the rear. While the car is up on jack stands, and you have the "safety strap" in place, look up at the rear brake hose. The Mark I manuals have it mounted from the chassis to the top of the rear end. With the "safety straps" they keep the stock 8.8 rear end from dropping down too far and pulling on that brake hose.

I love the old Mark I's ... ya the new roadsters have lots of improvements... but me and my Mark I we get along well together!

[mabbott74]

Just a note on the safety straps in the rear. While the car is up on jack stands, and you have the "safety strap" in place, look up at the rear brake hose. The Mark I manuals have it mounted from the chassis to the top of the rear end. With the "safety straps" they keep the stock 8.8 rear end from dropping down too far and pulling on that brake hose.

I love the old Mark I's ... ya the new roadsters have lots of improvements... but me and my Mark I we get along well together!



Thanks for the recommendation. I am hopefully pulling the rear diff this weekend to do the disc brake conversion, install the new control arms and the coil overs. Oh and fix a small leak on the rear end. I will check the brake line clearance before I start.

[mabbott74]

My first big project is to upgrade the brakes to 4 wheel disc with larger rotors. After way too much research I decided to go with a 94-95 Mustang Cobra setup. It seemed to be the best bang for the buck. It was a challenge finding parts in stock during Covid and took me several months to acquire everything. I was able to find some 95 spindles to complete the swap about an hour and a half from me. It was a good day trip with my wife and free entertainment watching the guy try to remove a nut with a 10 foot pipe as a breaker bar. I had to walk away a few times because I couldn't contain my inappropriate laughter. It was seriously like a Three Stooges episode.

As with most projects one thing leads to another so I decided to upgrade the rear control arms and install a set of coil overs. A few of the 'things' I learned along the way. The Fox lower ball joints can be used but you have to add washers to the top because the shaft is longer than the 1994/95 versions. The tie rods will have to be adjusted out a good 1/2" on each side because the mounting hole is moved forward and outward compared to the earlier versions. Pigeon toed isn't a good look on the Roadster. Here are a couple of pictures from the project -

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[mabbott74]

Next project was relocating the battery from inside the trunk. I decided to put in a drop box and after doing a ton of research I landed on building my own. For about $60 in materials (and a $70 metal brake from Harbor Freight which I figured would come in handy throughout the build) this is what I ended up with -

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Fortunately I have some help.

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If anyone was wondering 14 Gauge aluminum (aluminium for our friends across the Atlantic) is sharp.

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[mabbott74]

Got a chance to do a little more on the project today. I installed the front brake line that I had to get redone and pulled the rear end to start the upgrades out back. That entailed disconnecting the driveshaft (not torqued and only 3 bolts), the shocks, the 4 link and the brake line. Here are a couple shots of the results -

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The hardest part of the whole project was getting the parking brake cables disconnected from the mount on the chassis (pictured in upper right). There has got to be a better way!

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Now to pull the axles, swap the drums for rear discs, clean and paint, install the new control arms, drill the holes for the coil overs and bend up some new brake lines. Oh and while I'm at it replace the pinion seal.

[mabbott74]

By chance does anyone know exactly where to drill the hole for the coil over upgrade in the upper mount. I reached out to FFR and they said, "You will need to drill a hole through both sides of the bracket as shown on page 4 of the link below:"

All page 4 had was this picture from the wrong angle LOL.

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I'm sure I could get close but I'm more of a measure twice and drill once guy.

[mabbott74]

When I bought the car it had sat for 'a couple of years' so I thought I'd dump the old gas and clean out the tank. It now has a new tank, pump and sender. This is why -

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[Railroad]

Not to "pile on", but makes me wonder about the inside of the tank. Carry on.

[svassh]

Making good progress, keep up the good work.

[WIS89]

MA-

Great find and good work so far. I admire you for taking on a project like this. Anyone that takes over on someone else's build is courageous in my book and one that has sat this long doubly so.

Looks like you are progressing well, despite the minor injury. Also looks like you have a competent helper! I wish you continued good luck as you progress!!

I look forward to following along as you bring her to life; best of luck!

Regards,

Steve

[NiceGuyEddie]

I had no idea there were still unfinished MK1's out there!

[mabbott74]

Not to "pile on", but makes me wonder about the inside of the tank. Carry on.

If you can believe it that picture is AFTER I scraped off some of the crud. It has a shiny new tank and internals. I flushed the lines and inspected them as best as I could but they appeared to be clean and clear.

[SourceLee]

If you can believe it that picture is AFTER I scraped off some of the crud. It has a shiny new tank and internals. I flushed the lines and inspected them as best as I could but they appeared to be clean and clear.

FWIW. Replacing that old fuel tank wouldn’t be a bad idea. Conditions inside the tank must have been “unique” or at least interesting during it’s existence. Especially to transform that fuel pump assembly into its current condition. It wouldn’t be surprising if there was a layer of fuel varnish throughout the tank. A new fuel tank could be had for $80 from Jegs. Plus you’re already underneath the car. You changed your underwear so might as well change your sock too.

[mabbott74]

Worked on the upgrade to the rear brakes today. I got the axles pulled and the drum brakes removed. It was the first time cracking open a rear diff. On a positive note I only dropped one of the C clips in the bucket of oil. I have to replace the seals and then I can start putting things back together. My wife volunteered to get the chassis prepped so the suspension parts are ready to go back on. #familyproject

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[mabbott74]

Still working on the rear diff and I ran into a little snag. When I went to install the 2nd axle bearing it wasn't the brand I bought. Apparently some one swapped it with a cheap one before they returned it. Of course the store didn't have another one in stock so I called it a night and will give it another go tomorrow. On another note I figured out that a toilet brush works great to clean out axle tubes!

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[mabbott74]

Why is it that everything takes twice as long and requires 3 more trips to the parts store than planned? Got the rear diff painted (and several others parts), bearings and seals installed, torqued the front spindles, cut the spring perches and got the back half of the frame prepped for paint.

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[mburger]

I left my spring perches in only because my body was on and it looked like a real pain clearance wise cutting all the way through and since it wasn’t in the way of anything and mostly hidden, I left it. What is the number welded into that 2 inch tube right there at the spring perch? Everything is looking great on your car.

[mabbott74]

I left my spring perches in only because my body was on and it looked like a real pain clearance wise cutting all the way through and since it wasn’t in the way of anything and mostly hidden, I left it. What is the number will dig into that 2 inch tube right there at the spring perch? Everything is looking great on your car.

I figured since the body was off and I had access I might as well. I think it would have been near impossible to do with the body on. Plus you know the weight savings.

[mburger]

I figured since the body was off and I had access I might as well. I think it would have been near impossible to do with the body on. Plus you know the weight savings.

Yup. I was using voice to text so I edited (fixed) it to say welded into the 2” tube.

[cob427sc]

I believe that number you asked about is the FFR serial number for the car. I know the MK1's had the number welded on the frame back there somewhere.

[mabbott74]

Yup. I was using voice to text so I edited (fixed) it to say welded into the 2” tube.

How the heck did you see numbers welded in the tube from those pictures?! I know it's time to get my eyes checked but man I didn't realize it had gotten so bad. I went down with a flashlight and sure enough there were some numbers welded inside.

[mburger]

Sorry - thought you were working on a Mk1.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153306&d=1631544048

[mburger]

How the heck did you see numbers welded in the tube from those pictures?! I know it's time to get my eyes checked but man I didn't realize it had gotten so bad. I went down with a flashlight and sure enough there were some numbers welded inside.

Ha! I didn't see them except the metal from the weld sticking up, but more importantly, I know from experience (I learned it here) that that is where they welded the frame number.

Here's mine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153311&d=1631544908

[mabbott74]

Buttoned up the rear end with the North Race Cars adapter plates, new rotors and powder coated calipers. I bent new brake lines, they look great but we will have to see how they work before we call them good. I just need to order some hub centric spacers and bolt it back in.

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[WIS89]

Matt-

I really like your progress; you are doing a first-rate job! However, I LOVE the fact that your wife and daughter are out there helping with the project -- does your wife now love the smell of gear oil in the morning? Smells like Victory!! I really like family projects. My boys and I have shared things in the garage that may not have been shared anywhere else. Oh, and we built some cool stuff too... The memories of those projects will help sustain me long after the projects have been completed.

Thanks for letting us follow along with your progress. I look forward to seeing the rest of her come back together!

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve

[mabbott74]

Matt-

I really like your progress; you are doing a first-rate job! However, I LOVE the fact that your wife and daughter are out there helping with the project -- does your wife now love the smell of gear oil in the morning? Smells like Victory!! I really like family projects. My boys and I have shared things in the garage that may not have been shared anywhere else. Oh, and we built some cool stuff too... The memories of those projects will help sustain me long after the projects have been completed.

Thanks for letting us follow along with your progress. I look forward to seeing the rest of her come back together!

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve

I've had A LOT of help with this project and it's provided a great opportunity to spend quality time with people (and teach a few valuable life skills along the way). I'm not sure wifey is quite there with the stank of old gear oil LOL. Right now she is trying to get the P.O.R-15 paint off from touching up the chassis. That stuff is impossible to clean off of skin!

[mabbott74]

Oh man what a circus. We reinstalled the rear end into the car today and I learned a few things along the way. Mainly it helps to have the chassis close to level before you start. Which I didn't. Not remotely. Also it helps if you don't install the lower control arms backwards. And on the wrong side. But eventually we figured it out and got it done. I will have to remove the coil overs to fit spacers in and torque everything down. It looks good and everything has plenty of clearance. I have a couple of questions. First - the stock upper control arms had washers inboard between the control arm and the bushing. It does not appear that the FFR control arms have room for them. Is that correct?

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Next - any thoughts about adding Ford Friction Modifier Additive? I'm using Royal Purple 75W-140 that already has Friction Modifier Additive included. On a sad note I did confirm the rear end ratio is 2.73. :(

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[mabbott74]

After a couple of crazy weeks I finally got to do a little work on the MK1. Of course I ran into a challenge. It seems the dash was either drilled incorrectly or is possibly for a different MK??? The speedo, tach and hole for the steering shaft seem to be off by about 2". If I look at the picture in the assembly manual it would seem to verify this. Any questions or suggestions?

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[JohnnyB]

After a couple of crazy weeks I finally got to do a little work on the MK1. Of course I ran into a challenge. It seems the dash was either drilled incorrectly or is possibly for a different MK??? The speedo, tach and hole for the steering shaft seem to be off by about 2". If I look at the picture in the assembly manual it would seem to verify this. Any questions or suggestions?]

Mark 1 and 2's use a different dash than the later versions. Factory Five reduced the size of the foot boxes and moved the location of the steering shaft towards the drivers door on the Mark 3s. Looks like you have the new dash.
On another note, it looks like you are using the lower donor shock mount for the rear coilover shocks. At the time Factory Five recommended using a grade 8 bolt for the lower shock mount. I believe they recommended this because the donor bracket isn’t up to the task since it is meant to be used in conjunction with the donor springs. A better solution is to use the newer three link style traction lock bracket.

[mabbott74]

Mark 1 and 2's use a different dash than the later versions. Factory Five reduced the size of the foot boxes and moved the location of the steering shaft towards the drivers door on the Mark 3s. Looks like you have the new dash.
On another note, it looks like you are using the lower donor shock mount for the rear coilover shocks. At the time Factory Five recommended using a grade 8 bolt for the lower shock mount. I believe they recommended this because the donor bracket isn’t up to the task since it is meant to be used in conjunction with the donor springs. A better solution is to use the newer three link style traction lock bracket.

Thanks for the input. Where might I locate the traction lock brackets? I looked on FFR parts page and didn't see that available.

[R. Button]

Call FFR for the Traction Lok, part number 15237, which has the following parts:

So you know 15237 includes all of the following


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TRACTION LOK BRACKET SET


BRACKETS, TRACTION LOK, SET, POWDERCOATED AND BOXED


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TRACTION-LOK BRACKET (LEFT)





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TRACTION-LOCK INSIDE/BACK BENT


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


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TRACTION-LOCK OUTSIDE


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


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TRACTION-LOCK INSIDE SPACER


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


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TRACTION-LOCK SHOCK MOUNT


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


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PWDR TRACTION-LOK BRACKET


POWDERCOAT, COLOR# TK100A, SATIN BLACK


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TRACTION-LOK BRACKET (RIGHT)





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PANHARD BAR SHOCK MOUNT


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


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PANHARD BAR OUTSIDE


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


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PANHARD BAR INSIDE/BACK


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


13193

TRACTION-LOCK INSIDE SPACER


SHEET, STEEL, HRPO, 7ga


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PWDR PANHARD BAR AXLE MOUNT


POWDERCOAT, COLOR# TK100A, SATIN BLACK

[mabbott74]

Got my Russ Thompson pedal installed and upgraded the other two to match. They weren't going to line up mounting them to the existing pads so I cut them off and made some mounts to match the throttle pedal. There may have been a little blood but I'm happy with the results.

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[NiceGuyEddie]

I said this years ago and I can't believe I'm saying it again, but I had no idea there were still unfinished MK1's out there!

The pedals are very even - nice job. Consider bumping out the left side of the driver's footbox and adding sort of a recessed dead pedal - there is room between the footwell and the body.

[WIS89]

Matt-

Still admiring your work! I love how nice of a job you are doing cleaning everything up. Everything you have worked on looks like it is brand new. I know how hard that can be, so hat's off to your wife and daughter for their hard work making things look so good.

You are making good progress, and it has been fun checking in on you. You have been getting good advice from some knowledgeable folks! It is one of my favorite parts of this family really! There are so many people stepping up to make sure we are doing the right thing the right way. And, almost without exception, they all are truly friendly and are happy to help. I have never seen a place like this, and it is fun to see folks rally around to help!

Sorry for the distraction... Keep up the good work, and thanks for letting us come along for the ride! All the best.

Regards,

Steve

[mabbott74]

I said this years ago and I can't believe I'm saying it again, but I had no idea there were still unfinished MK1's out there!

The pedals are very even - nice job. Consider bumping out the left side of the driver's footbox and adding sort of a recessed dead pedal - there is room between the footwell and the body.

Any suggestions for a dead pedal? Also it looks like I'll need to fab up some type of stop for the throttle pedal. Any ideas?

[mabbott74]

Got a chance to work on my seats today. I installed the seat heaters and started the layout for the mounts. I plan to use sliders for the driver's seat and a small riser on the passenger to match the height. A quick question... Are 1/4" rivnuts sufficient to attach the seats to the frame?

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[J R Jones]

mabbot74, Pick an OEM brand that you respect and inspect their seat mount engineering.
I predict you will see M8 or 5/16 minimum with through bolts or weld studs, nuts and washers, grade five or eight, which rivnuts are not.
jim

[JohnnyB]

Any suggestions for a dead pedal? Also it looks like I'll need to fab up some type of stop for the throttle pedal. Any ideas?

I tried a couple of dead pedals from production cars but they were all too big and interfered with the clutch pedal. I ended up using a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron covered with non-slip tape. It's not too pretty but it's functional and one of the better additions I’ve made. I installed it after the body was on for a few years so I used some hefty sheet metal screws to attach it to the foot box aluminum. I was concerned about the aluminum being strong enough to support it without additional backing but it has held up well. I use it all the time and it’s still solid after many years.
Not sure about the throttle pedal. I also used one of Russ's pedals but I don't believe it needed a stop.
I did install a stop to keep the brake pedal rod from backing out. Factory Five fixed this at some point but I remember reading about someone with a Mark 1 that caught their toe on the brake pedal and pulled the brake rod out of the master cylinder. That could make for a bad day so if your frame doesn't already have a stop I'd recommend installing one.
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[mabbott74]

That was easy! I upgraded my brakes to SN95 Cobra spec calipers & rotors. I had a local shop make brake hoses for the front. The first set was the wrong size (3/8" instead of 10mm). The second set was the right size but one side leaked. You know what they say, "Fifth times a charm."

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Got some help from a friend and my pit crew. Brakes are bled, pedal is firm and no leaks detected. I'd say it was a good shift!

[mrmustang]

I said this years ago and I can't believe I'm saying it again, but I had no idea there were still unfinished MK1's out there!

The pedals are very even - nice job. Consider bumping out the left side of the driver's footbox and adding sort of a recessed dead pedal - there is room between the footwell and the body.

There is an early, sub 1,100 (IE: one of the first 100 sold to the public) MK I kit sitting in a garage in Maywood, NJ, 2nd owner has it, and is slowly working on it as time and funds allow.

Bill S.

PS: yes, I'm still lurking about :D

[herb427sc]

I said this years ago and I can't believe I'm saying it again, but I had no idea there were still unfinished MK1's out there!

The pedals are very even - nice job. Consider bumping out the left side of the driver's footbox and adding sort of a recessed dead pedal - there is room between the footwell and the body.

I bought mine in 1999 an d it is only about 1/2 done.