ATX MKIV #9644 Coyote Build Thread (Index #137) - Trickle Charger Port Added [Archive]

dbo_texas

08-16-2021, 10:53 PM

* Build Index Added - Post #137-#138 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=530783&viewfull=1#post530783) (will keep this updated as the build progresses)

Hi everyone!

I've been a member of the forum for many years, doing tons of research and planning my build. I've met quite a few members of this forum and the local Cobra Club here in Austin, some of who gave me rides in their cars and spent many hours answering questions for me. I was planning to do a salvage Coyote build in about a year, but recently a partially started MK4 kit came up for sale that I couldn't pass up. This kit has almost all the options I was planning and was within my "budget". So after many years of dreaming of this build, I've finally taken the plunge. It all happened fairly quickly so I wasn't really prepared - I spent the entire weekend rearranging my garage, building shelving, and shuffling tools around. But in the end I was able to make the space I need. I'll be building this in a 2.5 car garage and my wife's car will take up one spot. With the help of a good friend, and a very generous offer to borrow an enclosed trailer already set up for Cobras, I picked up the partially started kit on 8/11/21 from north Houston and hauled it back to Austin.

About Me
I have very little practical experience when it comes to working on cars other than basic maintenance, so I plan to ask a lot of questions and seek advice from more experienced builders. It's one of the things I love about this group - everyone is willing to help and offer advice. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and I'm not afraid to fab custom parts. So this build will be a first for me in many respects, but something I've been wanting to do for at least a decade.

Goals of this build:
I will primarily be doing street driving but have hopes of doing some beginner autocross occasionally. We do have a lot of great twisty roads and hill country surrounding Austin. I'll probably go to car shows every now and then as well. I want to add in a lot of creature comforts (AC, heated seats) to extend the driving season as the weather in TX can be brutal especially in the summer.

Kit Details & Build Plan:
At this time, I'm thinking that I want to go with a more modern look. I'm highly considering blacking out all the chrome (and wheels) and going with a less than traditional paint scheme. But I'm not 100% decided yet. I hope to make up my mind once I'm at go-kart stage. Here's a list of the major options/accessories included in the kit I purchased, which was shipped from FFR in late 2019. All parts were new/crate when purchased originally. Some of the items I don't plan to use and will probably sell them on the forum later once I'm sure I won't be using them.

From FFR:

MK IV COMPLETE KIT
POWDERCOATING ROADSTER CHASSIS
MODULAR 4.6/COYOTE ENG/TRANS MOUNT KIT
2015 IRS PARTS w/COMPLETE KIT
COYOTE FULL LENGTH HEADERS WITH KIT
BODY CUT-OUTS
BLACK LEATHER SEATS UPGRADE
COYOTE POWER STEERING w/COMPLETE KIT
FRONT LOWER ARMS - STANDARD WIDTH
FFR GPS GAUGE SET W/KIT
Mk4 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER KIT (will probably sell)
STAINLESS SIDE EXHAUST UPGRADE w/HDW
WIND WINGS
1.50" MK IV LH CHROME ROLL BAR UPGRADE
14" LEATHER STEERING WHEEL UPGRADE (will probably sell & replace w/ wooden trim wheel from FFR)
2018 IRS 3.55 CENTER SECTION & SPINDLES
12.88" FRONT WILWOOD BRAKES - RED W/KIT
12.88" 2015 IRS WILWOOD BRAKE KIT - RED
SUN VISORS
ROADSTER WIPER KIT (may sell this)
1.50" PASS SIDE CHROME ROLLBAR
1.50" ROLLBAR GROMMET SET
ASSEMBLED SIDE LOUVER SET
18" HALIBRAND STYLE WHEEL/TIRE PACKAGE
COYOTE INSTALLATION KIT

Other Items (included in sale)

Coyote Gen 2 Crate Engine - Complete and assembled (Forte)
Tremec-T56 Transmission - mounted to the engine (Forte)
Hydroboost (Forte)
Hydraulic Clutch (Forte)
Modified Wilwood Pedal Box Assembly (Forte)
LED Headlamps (will probably replace with different style)
OTB-6444 S.S. Triple Reservoir
Ford Mustang 2005-2018 Mass Air Flow Housing , 3.50" OD (HS-SS-350D6)
3.5" Diameter Aluminum Honeycomb Air Straightener Screen, 1/4" (6mm) Cell (S-350D14)
ThermoTech COOL-IT mats (for cockpit insulation)
Radiator Fan Shroud
lots of tools (engine hoist, torque wrenches, sockets, cleco tools, drill bits, grease gun, wheel dollies, brake flaring tool....lots of others I can't remember)

Additional Mods/Accessories
Here are some of the mods I'm considering, but not 100% decided on yet (more research needed):

Air conditioning/Heating
Heated seats (possibly cooled as well if possible)
All LED interior and headlamp lighting
Under-dash closeout panel
USB under-dash ports
Cup holders in trans tunnel
Push-button start
Roll bar LEDs
Front battery mount
Drop trunk storage mod
Rear cockpit wall cubby
High-back seats - although I prefer the look of the low-backs, I may go with high backs for added safety
Driveshaft safety loop
Custom saddle leather interior - seats, trans tunnel, rear cockpit wall, door cards
FFR carbon fiber dash (may covered in same saddle leather TBD - I saw another builder do this and it looked great)
Russ Thompson turn signal + quick release steering wheel
Maybe a bit ambitious, but I'm considering attempting the tilt-front mod (Jazzman & 2bking sent me detailed plans/instructions on how to pull this off, but man it looks like a real challenge!)
Body work & paint - I'll outsource these more than likely, although I do love how a lot of the first time builders pulled this off....something to be said for DIY if you have the patience for it

In the next post I'll provide some pics and additional details of the current state of this kit, as the previous owner got a good start on some of the main components. Still plenty to do, and lots of ways to make it my own!

dbo_texas

08-16-2021, 11:14 PM

I plan to pull the wheels off, put it back on jack stands, and thoroughly go over every inch of the car. I want to verify what's been completed, confirm everything is torqued down, and just get a better understanding of all the hardware in general. Here are some of the build tasks already completed on the car:

front suspension mounted
rear end (IRS) and suspension
rotors, brakes, calipers (front & rear)
brake lines routed (but not fasted in place or connected to brakes)
wheels
power steering rack
steering column
modified Wilwood pedal box w/ Forte hydroboost installed
gas tank mounted
engine/trans dropped in but needs to be centered and leveled still
most mounted aluminum coated in POR15, all visible and boxed panels were professionally powder coated black (still in boxes awaiting assembly)

Garage space: The MKIV will live on the left-hand side. I plan to hoist the body to the ceiling as others have done to get it out of the way. I didn't want to mess with rolling a body buck on/off the frame on a daily basis.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152228&d=1629167136

Packing: Here are the boxes I picked up with the kit. Many were opened just for inventory.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152227&d=1629167136

All loaded up and ready to head back to ATX:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152226&d=1629167136

Here she is after unloading:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152231&d=1629167158

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152232&d=1629167158

And all tucked in! I plan to hoist the body up to the ceiling this weekend so I can start to evaluate the current state.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152236&d=1629172974

Railroad

08-17-2021, 09:19 AM

Congrats. Looks like you got a great deal. Happy, happy, happy!

Straversi

08-17-2021, 09:24 AM

Congratulations and welcome. Looks like you have a good plan and are well underway. You are in for a really fun time.
-Steve

edwardb

08-17-2021, 09:41 AM

Blitzboy54

08-17-2021, 10:19 AM

Congratulations on what I can only assume was a good deal.

The good news is the build is not too far along and you can start really making it yours. The bad news is like Paul said you have to pull the engine back out. There is no way I can conceive of to get the inner footbox panels in with the engine there. I would also run the wiring harness before putting it back in and the fuel lines in not already installed. While you are doing that it's not that big of a deal to drill out the rivets and finish your panels in whatever you want. No need if your happy but that is an option too.

Going to be a great car when it's done. I've never met anyone that didn't love their Coyote.

dbo_texas

08-17-2021, 10:50 AM

Congratulations. Looks like you got a very nice package there. Should make an excellent final result. One comment. You said "...engine/trans dropped in but needs to be centered and leveled still." A little unusual for the engine/trans to be installed with what are obviously uninstalled and maybe unfinished aluminum panels. It's tight in there anyway. Especially so with the Coyote. Not sure how that will work out. You may want to think about pulling it and getting things finished up in the engine bay first. Also from the picture the engine position looks OK. The engine is by definition offset to the right 1-2 inches. Level isn't super critical as long as reasonable. Main criteria with the Coyote is that it's clearing the footboxes on both sides.

Good luck with your build and keep us updated.

Thanks for the tips Paul. I may consider pulling out the engine/trans like you suggest. Right now none of the panels are riveted, just held in place with clecos and silicone between the frame/panel. The passenger footbox panels are in place but not he driver's side. Also, fuel lines haven't been routed yet so that may be another reason. Many of the boxed panels (Box 6A) have been professionally powder coated black already. To be honest my head is spinning a little bit right now so I need to take some time and closely read through the manual and figure out what all needs to be completed before installing the engine/trans. I'll be taking a close look at a several of the build threads including yours for guidance.

Question time:

If I did want to re-finish some of the panels (currently coated in POR15), is there a good way to remove the POR15 or just scuff and re-coat with product of my choosing? Main reason I would do this is just inconsistent coverage job - I'd prefer a little bit cleaner look.
Is the wiring harness provided with the complete kit a Ron Francis wiring harness or does FFR make their own harness? If they are different, what are the benefits of the RF harness?
With a Coyote install, is it necessary to relocate the oil filter? It looks trapped by the tubular frame member. I think I've seen several people relocate that...just wanted to confirm if this is a good idea before I start researching more.

edwardb

08-17-2021, 11:37 PM

Thanks for the tips Paul. I may consider pulling out the engine/trans like you suggest. Right now none of the panels are riveted, just held in place with clecos and silicone between the frame/panel. The passenger footbox panels are in place but not he driver's side. Also, fuel lines haven't been routed yet so that may be another reason. Many of the boxed panels (Box 6A) have been professionally powder coated black already. To be honest my head is spinning a little bit right now so I need to take some time and closely read through the manual and figure out what all needs to be completed before installing the engine/trans. I'll be taking a close look at a several of the build threads including yours for guidance.

Question time:

If I did want to re-finish some of the panels (currently coated in POR15), is there a good way to remove the POR15 or just scuff and re-coat with product of my choosing? Main reason I would do this is just inconsistent coverage job - I'd prefer a little bit cleaner look.
Is the wiring harness provided with the complete kit a Ron Francis wiring harness or does FFR make their own harness? If they are different, what are the benefits of the RF harness?
With a Coyote install, is it necessary to relocate the oil filter? It looks trapped by the tubular frame member. I think I've seen several people relocate that...just wanted to confirm if this is a good idea before I start researching more.

My take:

1. Don't know for sure. Haven't tried to remove POR15. Might be able to rough it up and recoat. But don't know how it would respond including react which is always a big mess. Maybe experiment on in an area that's not seen when finished.

2. Factory Five supplies only a Ron Francis harness in the vintage kit you have. You'll get some negative comments from a few maybe. But don't reinvent the wheel. It works and I'd recommend you stay with it. And the majority of the build documentation you'll see on here is with it. So lots of tips, ideas, and troubleshooting if it comes to that. :p As a self-admitted newbee to this, be a little cautions about changes and mods. They can quickly cause complication and unintended consequences. I'd definitely put the wiring harness in that category.

3. No, normally for a Coyote build it's unnecessary to relocate the oil filter. In fact I'd recommend against it unless you have some specific reason to do so. Again, added and unnecessary complication. Most of use a smaller filter than the stock one. Fits fine and easy to spin on and off in the stock location. I use a Mobil 1 M1-113 Extended Performance Oil Filter. There are others. Keep in mind the Ford recommended oil change on these engines is 10K miles or one year max. Unless you're way above average, you'll end each year with significantly less than 10K miles.

Comment regarding your panels. You said the previous builds installed the panels with clecos and silicone? That's very unusual. Typically never use silicone until the final step with rivets and not planning to remove. You may have a difficult time getting them off. That stuff does stick pretty well if full coverage.

dbo_texas

08-18-2021, 08:38 AM

1. Don't know for sure. Haven't tried to remove POR15. Might be able to rough it up and recoat. But don't know how it would respond including react which is always a big mess. Maybe experiment on in an area that's not seen when finished.
Agreed about the potential mess. I have a few panels where I can try it out, but right now I'm leaning toward just scuffing and re-applying a different finish.

2. Factory Five supplies only a Ron Francis harness in the vintage kit you have. You'll get some negative comments from a few maybe. But don't reinvent the wheel. It works and I'd recommend you stay with it. And the majority of the build documentation you'll see on here is with it. So lots of tips, ideas, and troubleshooting if it comes to that. :p As a self-admitted newbee to this, be a little cautions about changes and mods. They can quickly cause complication and unintended consequences. I'd definitely put the wiring harness in that category.

Absolutely agree with you on this one. The electrical is one of the things on this build I'm most nervous about and not looking forward to. I don't plan to deviate from the norm on this one, I just wasn't sure if the RF harness is what comes with the kit so thanks for clarifying that.

3. No, normally for a Coyote build it's unnecessary to relocate the oil filter. In fact I'd recommend against it unless you have some specific reason to do so. Again, added and unnecessary complication. Most of use a smaller filter than the stock one. Fits fine and easy to spin on and off in the stock location. I use a Mobil 1 M1-113 Extended Performance Oil Filter. There are others. Keep in mind the Ford recommended oil change on these engines is 10K miles or one year max. Unless you're way above average, you'll end each year with significantly less than 10K miles.

OK this is good to hear. I'll look for the low-profile filter and swap it out when I pull the engine.

Comment regarding your panels. You said the previous builds installed the panels with clecos and silicone? That's very unusual. Typically never use silicone until the final step with rivets and not planning to remove. You may have a difficult time getting them off. That stuff does stick pretty well if full coverage.
I think the only ones I might need to remove would be the ones in the passenger footbox, and yes they are attached with silicone + clecos. Maybe I can slide a razor blade between the seam and cut through the silicone. Not ideal but I'll see how it goes.

Merlin Tech

08-18-2021, 04:53 PM

Hey Cuz,
What a fun project, I will be watching and as you know, I am but a text away. This is my view today. 152310

dbo_texas

08-18-2021, 07:46 PM

Hey Cuz,
What a fun project, I will be watching and as you know, I am but a text away. This is my view today. 152310

Awesome! I'm sure I will be in touch frequently!

460.465USMC

08-18-2021, 10:47 PM

Welcome, dbo_texas! Glad to have you aboard, and joining the F5 fun.

What an incredible find on your kit! And, tools to boot! Not too shabby. Also cool it came with a six speed. That will be nice.

Will be fun to see you get started, and watch your build.

I have limited experience with POR-15 (I love it), but from what I can tell that stuff is incredibly durable, and seems almost permanent. Seems like it would be quite a chore to remove, but I've never tried it, so can only speculate.

Welcome!

dbo_texas

08-20-2021, 09:08 AM

Hi folks,
I've been going through the boxes, just getting a feel for where different parts are located. For the most part, items are still in the original FFR numbered boxes. However, there are quite a few backordered parts that arrived later that are in random boxes so I'm trying to label everything really well before I stack them on my shelving to clear up the garage space. This weekend my goal is to get the body hoisted up to the ceiling (like THIS (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32003-Body-On-and-Off&p=365475&viewfull=1#post365475)), and get the car back up on jack stands so I can pull the wheels off. Then I plan to start going through the build manual step-by-step to verify the assembly for front/rear suspension, control arms, knuckles/hubs, rotors and Wilwood brake installs. I'm mainly planning to check clearances/gaps, and also re-check that all fasteners have been torqued down and then mark the fastener heads with something like THIS (https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-detection-paint/).

On to other questions:

Before I pull the engine out (to do some of the suggested stuff in the thread above such as fuel lines, electrical, etc), are there other things I should mock up now while it is in the frame such as electrical harness routing (others?).
Once I do finally pull the engine, should I remove it with the trans still attached or decouple it from the transmission? Right now nothing is really bolted down other than the engine mounts
Finally, I saw some people either build an engine stand out of wood (looking @ edwardb's 20th anniversary build) OR I know you can buy them as well. If I keep the trans on it, what's the best way to support it? Do I just add an beam under the transmission to support the weight of it? I know I can't just set it on the ground because it could damage the Moroso oil pan. Just looking for best suggestions on how to prop up the engine/trans while I get the other engine bay work completed.

Blitzboy54

08-20-2021, 09:18 AM

The transmission should come out with the engine. That is the best way to get those in and out. Although much easier with a small block. Remember to take off your shifter as that little pigtail sticking up causes issues. Definitely do not want to lay it on the ground. You can build a stand. Some guys that receive coyote engines have metal brackets that ship with them. Perhaps someone on the forum would sell/give you a set they are no longer using. Depending on how long you plan to have it out you can let it hang on your hoist as well. I did that for nearly a week, but it sounds like you will have it out longer.

dbo_texas

08-20-2021, 09:38 AM

Yes I would guess I'll have it out for a bit longer than a few weeks and the hoist does take up a lot of space with the legs out. I'm thinking I will need to get some type of stand (homemade or bought). I also need to get the engine lift brackets - the original owner thought he gave them to me but I haven't found them just yet but I also haven't been through all the boxes. Hopefully by the end of this weekend I'll get through them all and will know for sure if I need the lift brackets.

dbo_texas

08-20-2021, 03:25 PM

edwardb

08-20-2021, 05:04 PM

Reading through some other posts, there was mention of some extra stuff you may need to do if using the T56 vs. TKO (see this post HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31578-Intro-Planning-Thread&p=360713&viewfull=1#post360713)). I have the QuickTime bell housing so that isn't an issue. Can anyone fill me in on the reverse lockout feature (what is required to install this). Are there other mods necessary for the T56 to work in this setup? I'll do some more searching on the forums but if anyone has info please let me know!

That's my post you linked to, so I'll respond. Other than the right bell housing, a little clearancing, and possibly relocating the e-brake, the T-56 fits in an IRS Roadster and quite a few have done it. I really like it in my Coupe, although full disclosure have never installed one myself in a Roadster. For your reverse question -- the T56 has a solenoid powered gate on the shifter for reverse. It prevents you from putting it into reverse unless the solenoid is energized, e.g. opening the gate. It's a nice feature but does need to be addressed. Several approaches: It's possible to just brute force it into reverse. Some also cut the spring to allow it to be forced into reverse a bit easier. Tremec strongly advises against either of these, and so do I. Defeats the whole purpose. Included only for completeness. Some opt for a pushbutton somewhere that energizes the solenoid. So you push the button any time you want to go into reverse. Others tie the solenoid to the brake switch, so that when the brakes are pushed reverse is available. The most elegant solution IMO, and what I did, is to install a speed sensitive module that automatically unlocks reverse when the car is stopped. This one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1IteuOEcCg.

dbo_texas

08-20-2021, 05:30 PM

That's my post you linked to, so I'll respond. Other than the right bell housing, a little clearancing, and possibly relocating the e-brake, the T-56 fits in an IRS Roadster and quite a few have done it. I really like it in my Coupe, although full disclosure have never installed one myself in a Roadster. For your reverse question -- the T56 has a solenoid powered gate on the shifter for reverse. It prevents you from putting it into reverse unless the solenoid is energized, e.g. opening the gate. It's a nice feature but does need to be addressed. Several approaches: It's possible to just brute force it into reverse. Some also cut the spring to allow it to be forced into reverse a bit easier. Tremec strongly advises against either of these, and so do I. Defeats the whole purpose. Included only for completeness. Some opt for a pushbutton somewhere that energizes the solenoid. So you push the button any time you want to go into reverse. Others tie the solenoid to the brake switch, so that when the brakes are pushed reverse is available. The most elegant solution IMO, and what I did, is to install a speed sensitive module that automatically unlocks reverse when the car is stopped. This one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1IteuOEcCg.

As always Paul - thanks for jumping in with an elegant solution! I like the simplicity of this speed sensitive module. Sounds like a winner!

dbo_texas

08-22-2021, 09:58 PM

Well I accomplished my goal for the weekend, which was to buy some new tools (3-ton floor jack, 3-ton jack stands, pneumatic rivet gun, eyelet bolts), get the body off, hoisted the body up to the garage ceiling and out of the way, and then get the frame up on the quick jacks. Next steps will be to finish inventory review - I'm not doing a 100% review as this has been completed by the previous owner, but rather going through all the boxes to get familiar with them. For items that came in backordered, they aren't in the original numbered boxes so I'm trying to label them well and take pictures of what's in the box so I have an easier visual way to find stuff as it comes up in the assembly manual. After I pull the wheels I can start going through the assembly manual step-by step to check out all the work that has been done so far (front/rear suspension, steering column and rack, rotors and Wilwood brakes). While I don't plan on removing too much stuff, I do want to double-check the torque and mark all the bolts that have been buttoned up fully. Anything else I should specifically look for? I'll post some pics in some of these areas (particularly the suspension and steering column and steering rack) to get some feedback if everything looks OK (again - I'm relatively new to this so I don't know what I don't know).

I have a question about how I hoisted the body. I used a method I read about in this thread HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32003-Body-On-and-Off&p=365467&viewfull=1#post365467) and HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24967-Aluminum-panel-trimming-question&p=285222&viewfull=1#post285222), basically using a 2x4 to support the body via the trunk and hood opening and raising with some cheap ratcheting hoists (1/4", 300lb load rating per pair) I bought on Amazon ($10/pair). It worked like a charm - very easy to raise/lower and it gets the body out of the way. I like this better than a rolling body buck because I won't have to move it every time I want to work on the car.

Now to my question: Should I be concerned at all about deforming the body if I keep it elevated and supported like this for an extended period of time (let's say 6mo - 1 yr)? I do have a cross-brace between the front/rear cockpit openings, but wasn't sure if the 2x4 would cause any support issues over time. I didn't add any padding under the 2x4 - I could easily put some rags or something there but the fiberglass seems to be pretty stout as-is. Worst case I can cut the body profile out of plywood like you would with a body buck to support it better - I just wasn't sure if that was really needed. Opinions welcome!

Picture time:

Here is the hoist setup:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152538&d=1629685558

Here it is lifted to the ceiling and out of the way - note I had to rotate it 90° to clear the garage door when it is open. I'm 6'1" and it clears my head by a good 4 or 5 inches so I won't have to duck - nice!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152543&d=1629685599

Close-up of the hoist w/ 2x4 support brace in the hood - same setup in the trunk.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152542&d=1629685599

Jack-stand locations on main frame tubes. Front stands sit just behind the cross-tube, and the rear stands are just in front of where the rectangular tube bisects the main frame tubes:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152535&d=1629685558

Rear view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152537&d=1629685558

dbo_texas

08-24-2021, 05:11 PM

As I was working on the car this weekend I found that in several areas where the aluminum had been coated with POR15, it was coming off. I was peeling off in large flakes which makes me think the panels weren't cleaned properly prior to putting on the POR15. Other panels seem rock solid and it seems like it would be damn near impossible to remove it. I'm going to try some solvent on a few areas that would be covered with carpet just to see how much of a pain it would be to remove it and re-finish. I also plan to reach out to a local powder coater and see if they have any type of acid/solvent bath that could remove this stuff. While I'm doing that, I've requested a quote from FFR for new panels on any of the parts that are visible in the engine bay or wheel wells. I'm guessing it wouldn't be cheap to just get new panels, but if it saves me a week of sanding I might just do it. What budget? :) However, the downside of new panels is that the frame has already been drilled for rivets, so I'd need to maybe line up the new panel with the old ones and mark the holes that way everything lines up when I install them. I think that will work OK.

Pic of the firewall POR15 peeling:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152606&d=1629842372

Pic of the passenger footwell panels. These are going to be a chore to remove. They aren't riveted, but they have been siliconed. I figure I can slice through the silicone with an exacto and then try to clean up the frame after the panels come off so that the new panels sit flush. F-panels will also be difficult to remove with the front suspension already installed. They have been riveted/siliconed, and I don't think I have access to a few of the rivets unless I disassemble some of the front end....may not be worth it for those two panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152607&d=1629842372

Ed Mc

08-24-2021, 05:23 PM

I have the metal engine dolly my coyote came from Factory Five on as well as the engine lift brackets, you can have them for the cost of shipping from IL. Send a pm if this works for you

marshc56

08-24-2021, 07:14 PM

Congrats, dbo,
I found a simialr kit, not quite to what I would have ordered, but a Roadster nonetheless. Mine has the 8.8 reat from a donor thta needed rebuild, so that's where I started. Yours is much farther along than mine was.

I'll be following along. Happy Building!

marsh

egchewy79

08-24-2021, 07:25 PM

edwardb

08-24-2021, 07:57 PM

your idea of holding the old panels over the new ones and marking the drill holes might be flawed. I found that even if everything was drilled and cleco'd and fit well, the fit changes even when adding a thin layer of silicone between the panels. I'd be afraid that you'd need to go ahead and redrill the holes as a millimeter off here or there will really screw up your hole pattern. I'm guessing that slicing through the silicone and peeling the panels apart without bending/warping the panels will also be a bit of a challenge. Good luck and keep us up to date!

If you use new panels, I agree trying to match the old holes would be difficult. Just not necessary IMO. Lay out new hole locations avoiding the old ones. During final installation, just make sure to get some silicone in each of the old holes. Will seal them up and gone.

You may find the cost for new panels from FF could be a bit expensive. They don't give them away. Plus the shipping won't be cheap. Not to mention how busy they are right now and you might end up waiting. Short of destroyed panels, I'd try to reuse what you have. Powder coating often includes media blasting (versus solvent) which might remove the old paint. Not sure what your capabilities are, but fabbing panels yourself isn't that hard. One more option.

dbo_texas

08-24-2021, 10:29 PM

If you use new panels, I agree trying to match the old holes would be difficult. Just not necessary IMO. Lay out new hole locations avoiding the old ones. During final installation, just make sure to get some silicone in each of the old holes. Will seal them up and gone.

You may find the cost for new panels from FF could be a bit expensive. They don't give them away. Plus the shipping won't be cheap. Not to mention how busy they are right now and you might end up waiting. Short of destroyed panels, I'd try to reuse what you have. Powder coating often includes media blasting (versus solvent) which might remove the old paint. Not sure what your capabilities are, but fabbing panels yourself isn't that hard. One more option.

Good points - and I did consider that lining up the panels to mark the rivet holes might not work out. I guess it would depend on the cost of new FFR panels. I could try a few and see if it works and if it doesn't I would drill new holes and patch the old ones like suggested. I just really like the look of the cleaned/brushed aluminum + shark hide finish. But, depending on how much of a pain this is, I may just leave it and move forward. Worst case I can scuff and patch the POR15 where it is peeling up, buy my concern is that other areas will peel over time.

For those that have installed Forte's hydroboost, I need some help with understanding the plumbing. I've watched some Youtube videos so now I'm an expert :) - can anyone confirm if I have the plumbing correct for this unit? I know I can reach out to Forte but I thought I'd ask here first. Also, if anyone has pics of how they routed the hydroboost lines that would be a big help. From the looks of it, I might want to get some 90° -6AN adapters for those high pressure lines coming out of the hydroboost but wanted to see how others route the hoses before I buy anything.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152653&d=1629861502

Am I correct in my assumption that you can use a proportional valve on the brake lines coming out of the hydroboost to adjust the front/rear brake bias? Is this needed/recommended? Is there a particular proportional valve p/n that is recommended for this setup?

edwardb

08-25-2021, 05:22 AM

For those that have installed Forte's hydroboost, I need some help with understanding the plumbing. I've watched some Youtube videos so now I'm an expert :) - can anyone confirm if I have the plumbing correct for this unit? I know I can reach out to Forte but I thought I'd ask here first. Also, if anyone has pics of how they routed the hydroboost lines that would be a big help. From the looks of it, I might want to get some 90° -6AN adapters for those high pressure lines coming out of the hydroboost but wanted to see how others route the hoses before I buy anything.

Am I correct in my assumption that you can use a proportional valve on the brake lines coming out of the hydroboost to adjust the front/rear brake bias? Is this needed/recommended? Is there a particular proportional valve p/n that is recommended for this setup?

I used this diagram for the plumbing on my #7750 Mk4 build with hydroboost. It's very specific with fittings, which may/may not be exactly what you need or use. But the hose routing is right on.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/.highres/Hydroboost%20Diagram_zpsqnx20gzb.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/7927a54c-c86c-47c4-aa3d-c2c772deb900/p/44d5359d-b63c-412c-97e5-1ca62bed2b36)

That master cylinder is different than the one Forte supplied with my setup. But then that was a few years ago... "Normal" practice is for a prop valve to be on the rear brake line. But you'll find lots of debate in several threads on here that for these builds should be on the front brake line. Depending on how you use the car, you may not need one at all. For street use I'll bet you would leave it wide open and never touch it. That's been my experience anyway. May want to consider leaving it off for now and see what happens.

Merlin Tech

08-25-2021, 05:30 AM

When replacing panels, this is the method I use. Lay the old panel over the new panel and scratch mark the old holes. Put the new panel in place and either have someone help hold it or use clamps if possible. Take a pointed punch and tap it on the scratch mark. The punch will find the hole in the frame. Now drill and cleco the hole. Do the critical alignment spots or corners to ensure you have it in the right place. After you have 4 or 5 clecos in, Just pinch & drill. The drilling is just getting the new panel metal out of the way as the punch will have the drill centered in the old hole.
I use this method on trailer panels as the alignment of the hole needs to stay in line or it all looks wrong and I just won't sleep at night if the holes are all off.

dbo_texas

08-31-2021, 12:59 PM

Not much to report this week. I ordered a few parts:

FFR Carbon Fiber dash
lower radiator mount (Breeze) - I didn't order the upper as many folks seem to think it isn't needed
offset bushing mount for steering rack (Breeze)
Front mount battery kit (Breeze)
Rear cockpit cubby (Breeze)

I also plan to order a few Russ Thompson parts later this week:

Turn signal kit
Drop trunk storage box

I have Friday & Monday off this week so I plan on going through all the suspension and brake work done, retorquing everything to spec and marking all the bolts that have been tightened down. Then I might work on installing the KRC power steering pump/reservoir kit to the front of the engine. Once I get some of the parts above I'll start fitting those as well.

Question: For those that have installed the North Race Cars A/C system on a Coyote roadster, is it necessary to do the fire-wall forward mod (to make more room for running A/C vent hoses) or can you fit everything behind the stock FFR firewall? Also, I'm well aware that the glove box on the Carbon Fiber dash won't work with the A/C. I plan to do as others have done, and basically take the back off the glove box to shorten it significantly. I may be able to store a few small items in there (ear plugs?) but I don't expect much more than that.

toadster

08-31-2021, 01:14 PM

you could do a shortened (custom) version of a glovebox for the CF dash to make more room!

dbo_texas

08-31-2021, 02:27 PM

you could do a shortened (custom) version of a glovebox for the CF dash to make more room!

Yep I plan to do something like this. I'll take the plastic piece FFR provides with the dash and trim it shallow. I'll need to get the A/C components installed first so I know how much room there is to work with. My guess is that the glovebox will end up very shallow (.75" - 1.5") if I had to guess. But I could put insurance card, phone, etc. in there maybe. We'll see!

dbo_texas

09-09-2021, 08:50 AM

Not a lot to report last weekend - busy with the family and holiday. I did get a chance to pull out the aluminum in the passenger footbox and firewall. I had to drill out a few rivets but since they are aluminum it took all of 2-3 seconds per rivet. I made sure to take a lot of pics prior to disassembly so I know how it goes back together with the seam overlaps. I also had to cut through a layer of silicone between the panels and the frame, and between the panel overlaps. No issues.

Now the fun part - removing the POR15. I started with an orbital sander using 60-grit and 80-grit disks. It worked fine but was very labor intensive. It took about 20 minutes of solid effort to get one side of the firewall clean, and part is completely flat. Most of the other panels have bends in them which would make the sander difficult. After some searching and asking on the FFR Builder Facebook page, someone suggested using Aircraft Paint Stripper. I picked up a can at a local auto-parts store, followed the directions, and voila the POR15 bubbles up after 5-10 minutes and scrapes off with a plastic spatula. Easy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153195&d=1631194984

And here are the panels after stripping. The paint stripper doesn't lift up the silicone (as expected) so I still have a little bit of cleanup to do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153196&d=1631194984

I've received a quote from a local powder coat shop that is reasonable ($450 to blast & powder coat all panels) so I'll bring one of the other powder coated panels in to match, and then get all these stripped panels re-coated with a similar matte black powder coat. I also plan to include the trunk aluminum and rear cockpit wall because I had them include that in the quote, so why not. My main concern is that the POR15 is peeling up on those too and I'm worried over time the carpet will pull up if I don't take care of it now. They said they should be able to media blast the POR15 off of those - I could have done that with the visible engine panels instead of using the stripper but I didn't want to take any chances.

Many parts were ordered last week as mentioned in the previous post, and those should be arriving in the next few days. I'll fit the Breeze front battery box once it arrives - I may need to relocate the front hard brake line if it interferes (TBD). Original builder didn't run it across the X-tube so it might be in the way. I still need to re-torque all the bolts in the suspension too - hopefully I can get to that this weekend.

egchewy79

09-09-2021, 09:13 AM

nice job on the panels. I wasn't sure how much you might muck up the panels trying to remove them. Not sure why the original builder siliconed but didn't rivet the panels. Good idea on removing the POR from the rear bulkhead and trunk panels as well before carpeting. I applied POR to my rear caliper brackets and found that large chunks would flake off when trying to clear out the bolt holes. Might have been poor surface prep on my end though.

Merlin Tech

09-10-2021, 05:32 AM

Be aware that when they blast off POR15 it may take some time to get it off. This can cause warping of the panels as you are actually hammering the panel (with abrasive media). You will be much safer stripping the POR15 and then letting them blast the surface just to etch it. If they are careful, it may not be an issue. I have had this problem in the past.

toadster

09-10-2021, 11:58 AM

very cool that the paint stripper worked! nothing more satisfying than peeling off a slab of paint :)

Wcj

09-14-2021, 12:10 PM

I've received a quote from a local powder coat shop that is reasonable ($450 to blast & powder coat all panels) so I'll bring one of the other powder coated panels in to match, and then get all these stripped panels re-coated with a similar matte black powder coat. I also plan to include the trunk aluminum and rear cockpit wall because I had them include that in the quote, so why not.

Hi Darryl. Nice project you picked up there. You're much further ahead than I am. I'm fairly local to you (10 min N of San Marcos) and just picked up an MK3 project. Would you mind sending me the name of the powder coater? I'd like to get my panels coated as well. Thanks!

dbo_texas

09-14-2021, 12:20 PM

Hi Darryl. Nice project you picked up there. You're much further ahead than I am. I'm fairly local to you (10 min N of San Marcos) and just picked up an MK3 project. Would you mind sending me the name of the powder coater? I'd like to get my panels coated as well. Thanks!

PM sent. Let me know if you have any questions.

dbo_texas

09-19-2021, 10:01 PM

This weekend I removed the tank so that I could install the Russ Thompson drop trunk box. So first order of business was to remove the bolts for the trunk --> I went ahead and bought a metric and SAE set of deep sockets since I didn't have either yet (more tools!). That made the job easy. I used my floor jack to support the tank while lowering it slowly. No problem.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153546&d=1632105477

Next, since I had the tank removed I went ahead and installed the bolts and couplers nuts for the Kleiner Quick Jack mod (if you aren't familiar with this, it allows you to remove the body without having to drop the gas tank). I found all the parts I needed @ Home Depot. I bought 7/16-14 all-thread rod, 7/16-14 x 0.75" bolts, washers, and 7/16-14 coupler nuts (1.75" length). I'll put the rod aside until I'm ready to cut it to length. For now I just need to get the coupler nuts installed with the 3/4" length bolts installed from the tank side and everything else can be added later. Here is a shot from the rear after installing into the frame brackets:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153548&d=1632105477

And from the tank side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153549&d=1632105477

RT Trunk box install on next post.

dbo_texas

09-19-2021, 10:05 PM

With the Kleiner mod complete, I went ahead and assembled the RT drop trunk kit. The parts went together without any issues - Russ's instructions worked just fine. So I riveted the box together first (this is just prior to drilling):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153545&d=1632105477

Before I removed the tank I measured where the fuel level sensor was so I could attempt to position the hole in the drop trunk kit above that. I then positioned the kit from underneath and held it in place with the floor jack and a piece of lumber. From the top-side, I marked where the frame cross-bars intersected the flanges on the drop trunk box. I used a dremel w/ cutoff wheel to trim the aluminum flanges to a depth of 3/4" per Russ's instructions. I found this to be very tedious and I ended up having to tweak my cuts several times until I got the fit I wanted.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153552&d=1632105500

Next up, I re-positioned the box, installed the rear trunk aluminum (with clecos) and marked the bottom face of the trunk deck where the drop-trunk opening should be. I removed the trunk deck and cut the hole using a jigsaw w/ metal cutter bit (started w/ .25" holes in all 4 corners to get the blade through).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153553&d=1632105500

Finally, after re-installing and tweaking the edges a bit to get a good fit, I was ready to start drilling the rivet holes. With the drop trunk kit held in place with the jack, I drilled through the trunk deck and drop trunk at the same time. I used clecos to held it all together for now. I plan to powder coat the trunk box along with all the other aluminum panels in a few weeks. All in all I'm really glad I decided to install this kit. As everyone who's done this mod agrees, it really adds a ton of extra trunk space.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153558&d=1632105529

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153556&d=1632105529

dbo_texas

09-20-2021, 08:39 PM

I've been researching what to do with the fuel lines. I've confirmed that the original kit owner installed a 190 LPH in-tank pump from Forte's. I don't know the exact brand or p/n. He also purchased a fixed pressure regulator / filter. It looks like the Corvette style LS regulator/filter @ 58psi that many have used. Currently connected are a 1/4" flexible return line (between tank and regulator/filter), and 3/8" flexible hose from the regulator/filter outlet port, all with quick connect fittings. So this is what I'm currently working with:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153582&d=1632181743

Here are my questions - any feedback would be appreciated.
1. For this regulator/filter setup, is it safe to assume that by mounting it near the tank I will only need to run a single 3/8" line up to the engine compartment?
2. Should I be concerned about the 1/4" return line being too small for the Gen2 Coyote? I know Breeze sells a high flow return kit which adds a 3/8" return line to the tank. From the looks of it, you would need to pinch off the 1/4" return port on the sender unit (mounted on the tank), then drill a new hole in the tank to install the new high flow 3/8" return port. I wasn't sure if this was needed. I plan on running the stock Gen2 Coyote and this will mostly be a street cruiser. Let me know if I should stick w/ the 1/4" return or go for the Breeze high-flow 3/8" return line kit.
3. I'm considering buying a better protected flexible 3/8" fuel line - something with either a nylon or stainless steel mesh around the line. I would also like to switch to 6AN fittings vs. the quick connects. Does anyone have opinions and/or recommendations on a specific brand flex line to look into? I'm assuming I'll need to get some quick-connect to 6AN adapters to hook up to the regulator/filter and to the tank ports.

Thanks in advance for the input/opinions!

egchewy79

09-21-2021, 06:40 AM

I got my flex SS PTFE lines through Forte. I think he orders them from Fragola and they come custom cut with fittings attached. I have -6AN fittings for my pump hanger. The manual does mention drilling out the return port with a larger drill bit for better return flow, but you might also be able to find a pump hanger with a larger return port. I'd ask Forte what's available and he can get you set up.

dbo_texas

09-28-2021, 10:55 AM

Here is the plan for the fuel line. I spoke w/ Mark @ Breeze and he has a kit for direct mounting the fixed pressure regulator/filter directly to the return port on the fuel pump hanger on the gas tank. So I'll hook the regulator/filter return directly to the 1/4" return port using a swage adapter (5/16 on regulator to 1/4 on tank hanger). Mark suggested no need for a larger return with the 190 lph pump (only need a 3/8 return if using the 255 lph pump). Then I'll use a 3/8 send line from pump to regulator, and a 3/8 PTFE w/ stainless braid from regulator/filter up to engine compartment. I'll route that send line up the passenger side 4" tube, and up the inside face of the passenger footbox. From there, I'll run it over to the fuel rail on the Coyote. Here is a pic of the adapters near the tank - I'll post some pics later once it is installed and routed. The P/N listed are Breeze parts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153879&d=1632844055

dbo_texas

10-22-2021, 02:50 PM

Been a little while since my last update. We've been slammed the last few weekends with softball tournaments and family commitments, so I haven't really made a lot of progress. I now have a whole bunch of parts waiting to get installed. I plan to start with the Breeze rear cockpit cubby fab. Once that is finished I can hopefully send out all the sheet metal to get powder coated. While that material is out for paint, I will finish going through suspension and start finalized brake lines, fuel lines, install power steering rack offset bushings (Breeze), and RT turn signal system.

Question: I received the carbon fiber dash from FFR and was planning to get the under-dash filler panel from Replicaparts. Has anyone installed this on the carbon fiber version of the dash? I emailed Mike and he indicated the filler panel would interfere with the dash where the jog is for the buttons. He indicated the filler panel could just be notched to clear that area so that is my plan. Any reason this won't work?

I was planning to get a few items from there anyways and can just add it onto my order (seat belt trim rings for rear cockpit wall, windscreen post trim plates, firewall support bracket).

jiriza84641

10-30-2021, 10:30 AM

Keep. it up!

dbo_texas

11-22-2021, 11:05 PM

Well it has been a few weeks since I've had the time to work on the car, but today my brother came over and we knocked out a couple of items. I have tons of other parts that came in that I'm itching to install. But today here are the items we completed. I'm hoping to finish up all the aluminum panel work so I can send all the panels out to the powder coat shop to finish stripping the POR-15 and re-coat with black satin powder coat.

1. BODY SUPPORT: We replaced the 2x4's hoisting the body up to the garage ceiling with a contour plywood buck (front & back) --> this better supports the body instead of just having a single contact point on each end of the 2x4 I posted previously. I'm now less concerned with the hood or trunk opening warping over time due to stress concentrations.

2. BREEZE COCKPIT CUBBY: This is a nice kit and was super simple to install. The instructions are very clear on this one - installed the backing panel into the trunk first, and we used the "L" brackets to attach to the 1/2" square tubes on the sides. Also drilled / cleco'd the lower flange to the upper trunk floor. Trimmed the bulb-seal to length. Done. Next up was to cut the oval access hole in the rear wall of the cockpit. I was nervous to cut this, but it turned out to be quite easy. We marked the oval by centering it between the seat belt notches, and used the recommended 5" x 17.5" size, centered vertically between the two bends in the rear cockpit aluminum. Not only does this visually look like the right spot (vertically) to place it between the two bends, but the opening is about 0.75" above the trunk upper floor (instructions say to make the cut a minimum of 0.5" above so there is room for the edge trim). I used this 5" (127mm) hole saw (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081H24Q6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) from Amazon. For $18 this thing cut through the aluminum like butter and left a clean edge. To connect the two holes, we just clamped the sheet metal to a 2x4 (to raise it up and get a flat surface for cutting) and used a fine point metal-cutting bit on the jigsaw. Worked like a charm. After a little deburring and clean-up using the Dremel drum sander, we test fit and cut the edge trim. Overall I'm very pleased with how easy it was to install this.

5" holes cut:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156848&d=1637637406

Finished cut w/ trim installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156849&d=1637637406

Rear view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156855&d=1637638952

3. BREEZE STEERING RACK OFFSET BUSHINGS: I can't claim this install went as smooth as the cubby. First we disconnected the steering shaft from the steering rack (couple of lock nuts + set screws). We followed the instructions but had one heck of a time getting both bolts through the frame holes and bushings, and spacer washers. In the end, we ended up having to grind a little bit of the hole on the PS front frame bracket to get the bolt through. We also did as the instructions indicate, and we cut away part of the front frame flanges on both the DS & PS to clear the boot on the rack (used a die grinder for this). I coated the bare steel so it won't rust before installing the hardware. We used spacers on the engine side to push the rack forward into the front frame brackets all the way. After following the instructions to center the rack, we found that we really only needed to shift the rack about 1/16" which is way less than I was expecting. Anyone else experience this small of a shift? In the end, I'm not sure how much this will improve things vs. the stock setup, but I know a lot of folks do this install so I went with it.

Overall after install complete:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156851&d=1637637429

Driver side (note the blue sharpie marks we used to measure the rack shift after adjustment of the bushings), also the clearance notch in the frame flange to clear the boot:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156853&d=1637637429

Passenger side (note the notch in the frame flange to clear the boot):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156852&d=1637637429

4. BREEZE RACK TRAVEL LIMITERS: Finally, while we had this all apart we went ahead and installed the Breeze rack travel limiters (one per side). I figured these would be good to install and they were cheap. Not sure if I needed them or not, but they seem to prevent the tires from rubbing the F-panels at full lock on each side. To install, remove the steel clamp/strap (no easy task), slide boot out of the way, then simply clip onto the rack arm. Re-install boot and steel clamp (this was actually very difficult...some use industrial zip-ties but we were able to get the metal clamps back on):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156850&d=1637637406

Next up:
I'm hoping to temporarily mount the dash and Russ Thompson turn signal system. I'd like to do this so I can mount the ReplicaParts dash closeout panel underneath. This will hopefully be the last piece of aluminum I will need to hack up so I should be able to send out all the panels for powder coat after I mock that up and get it drilled out.

mosh1999

11-23-2021, 08:46 AM

egchewy79

11-23-2021, 10:35 AM

I also found that I needed to only move my steering rack like 1/8" towards the PS (IIRC) so not much movement necessary.
yes, your upper control arm zerk fittings should be pointing up according to the manual. makes access to greasing the joints much easier. I had to disassemble the control arm to flip things around when I got my kit.

edwardb

11-23-2021, 12:01 PM

Your steering arms are reversed, I believe (hard to see) your upper ball joint plates are upside down and as to the upper control arms it is best to have the nuts to the bottom in case of them backing out (the bolts will not fall out).

What he said. Can't believe with all the eyes on this thread we missed it. Upper control arms are in fact upside down. The ball joints should be pointed out. Not in. Agree grease zerks should be pointed up. And bolts on top, nuts on bottom. And steering arms should point out, not in. Have to say it -- all shown and described in the build manual. But you're not the first one (or I'm sure not the last) to make these errors.

dbo_texas

11-23-2021, 02:23 PM

What he said. Can't believe with all the eyes on this thread we missed it. Upper control arms are in fact upside down. The ball joints should be pointed out. Not in. Agree grease zerks should be pointed up. And bolts on top, nuts on bottom. And steering arms should point out, not in. Have to say it -- all shown and described in the build manual. But you're not the first one (or I'm sure not the last) to make these errors.

Thanks everyone for the comments & input --> #1 on my priority list is to go through ALL of the front & rear suspension work in detail, page-by-page through the manual, to make sure there aren't any more issues like this on the work that has already been done on the suspension. I will likely post pics for clarity/confirmation as I start to work through them. Never hurts to have multiple sets of eyes on this! Again everyone --> thanks for pointing this stuff out. I would have hopefully caught these issues when going through all the work done so far, but you never know. In reading other build threads, I know this issue has popped up quite a few times.

ydousurf

11-23-2021, 03:01 PM

I think the only last thing to note for you dbo_texas, is that the "coupler nuts" that are {cut/modified} need to be in the rear of the A-arms. So, in your original (top view) picture, the passenger side is correct, whereas the driver side is not. I don't think this was mentioned and I'm just pointing this out so when you remove the ball joints, don't forget to make that change too, before re-installing them.
Here's my pic:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1999&attachmentid=155348

Anyway, all the best to you in your build and make sure those bolts & nuts are torqued! Other than that, I think we'll all be watching... Have lots of fun!

dbo_texas

11-30-2021, 05:55 PM

JB in NOVA

12-01-2021, 12:00 AM

4. BREEZE RACK TRAVEL LIMITERS: Finally, while we had this all apart we went ahead and installed the Breeze rack travel limiters (one per side). I figured these would be good to install and they were cheap. Not sure if I needed them or not, but they seem to prevent the tires from rubbing the F-panels at full lock on each side.

Good call on those. I can confirm from my 500-mile inspection that the tires do rub on the inside of the wheel liners (if you choose to install those). So I'll probably also be ordering a pair from Breeze.

egchewy79

12-01-2021, 11:16 AM

As I didn't originally assemble the front end, anyone have a guestimate of how much time it would take to disassemble / reassemble these items on both sides (upper control arms, ball joint, steering arms, etc)? Also, anything I should be aware of or keep an eye out for as I start taking it apart? Trying to plan my day for Saturday :) I would like to get these sorted as priority #1.

shouldn't take more than a few hrs assuming you have all the stuff you need (famous last words). The biggest issue, IIRC is getting the steering arms off since I think you'll need to remove the hub nut/rotor. Those hub nuts are a one time use nut, so make sure you pick up some before starting the process. other than that, it's just removing the bolts/nuts, swapping some things around, and then reinstalling things correctly.

dbo_texas

12-01-2021, 11:22 AM

shouldn't take more than a few hrs assuming you have all the stuff you need (famous last words). The biggest issue, IIRC is getting the steering arms off since I think you'll need to remove the hub nut/rotor. Those hub nuts are a one time use nut, so make sure you pick up some before starting the process. other than that, it's just removing the bolts/nuts, swapping some things around, and then reinstalling things correctly.

Thanks this is exactly they type of feedback I was hoping for. Hopefully I can get the hub nuts at a local auto parts store?

dbo_texas

12-06-2021, 12:58 PM

edwardb

12-06-2021, 04:35 PM

Quick update - I'll post an update later with a lot more details describing the trials & tribulations of taking the front end apart (I had one hell of a time with a few items), but in the mean time I wanted to ask a few questions.

I was able to swap the steering arms so that they point out towards the rotors, instead of in toward the motor like they were originally installed. Does this orientation look OK now?
While removing the hub, on the driver's side it looks like the bearing seal for the hub (I'm not sure what it is actually called) stayed on the front axle and didn't slide off with the hub (i.e. looking at the hub you can see the ball bearings and grease). The passenger side slid off and stayed assembled onto the hub. Should I be concerned about this or when I put the hub back on, it will be OK?

Orientation of the steering arm looks right to me. Pointed out and tie rod end in the right direction. Regarding that wheel bearing, that would be concerning to me. Those are supposed to be lifetime lubricated and not meant to be disassembled. If it were me, I'd probably replace it. Just not worth the risk for the future. Factory Five has always supplied PartsMaster PM513115 for my kits. (Mustang SN-95 part) That exact brand is in the $50-60 range looking at several sites. Moog sells a MOOG 513115 that's for the same application. Around $35 on Amazon and Summit. I've had good luck with Moog parts. Something I'd consider. Curious what others think.

dbo_texas

12-06-2021, 05:19 PM

Thanks Paul - I agree if it's only a $35 part, I'm going to go ahead and replace it. Hopefully I can get that seal cap off the axle without too much trouble (famous last words). *edit* I went ahead and ordered the MOOG hub p/n 513115 mentioned - it has pretty good ratings and the price is a bonus ($36 w/ next day delivery on Amazon).

dbo_texas

12-12-2021, 11:45 PM

I spent the weekend fixing a couple of items that were assembled incorrectly on the front end (thanks everyone for catching this!). I ran into some problems and I'll describe the issues/fixes below in case it helps someone in the future. Here are the items that needed to get fixed:

steering arms were on the wrong sides and needed to be swapped (they were pointed IN toward motor instead of OUT toward rotor).
upper control arms were upside down with grease fittings pointing down instead of up, and the linkages were backwards (i.e. the shorter trimmed coupler nut wasn't in the rear like it should be). When flipping the control arm over, it also meant that the ball joint needed to get removed and threaded from the other side so it points OUT instead of IN
Wilwood rotors were on the wrong sides and needed to be swapped (right was on left, left was on right)

Steering arms
There were three issues I had trying to swap these. The only way to disassemble these is to first remove the brakes, rotor & hub. This gives you access to the two bolts that mount the steering arm to the spindle. The first issue I had was getting the hub nuts removed. I couldn't for the life of me get the hub nut to break free from the axle threads. I tried multiple length breaker bars, added cheater bars to those for more leverage...nothing was working. So in the end I went and bought a corded impact wrench with 400 ft-lb of torque. This worked great and pulled the nuts off quickly. I ended up using this impact wrench for removing several other bolts and I'm pretty glad I bought it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158551&d=1639369296

The 2nd issue is that when I removed the hub on the driver's side, the bearing seal on the inside stayed on the axle instead of coming off with the hub. The part was cheap (<$40), as mentioned in the post #54 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=476395&viewfull=1#post476395), so I went ahead and bought the Moog replacement. It worked great. To get the bearing seal off the axle, I used the propane torch to heat it up, and knocked it a few times with a small hammer and screwdriver. Did the trick.

The 3rd issue I had with the steering arms was getting the steering rack tie rod ball joint to release from the steering arm socket. I did some Googling & watched a few YouTube videos. The popular solution seems to be smacking the steering arm with a hammer right where the bore for the tie rod stud is. So I tried hitting it a few times with the hammer - not super hard - but enough to persuade the joint to pop free. You have to be careful not to miss, otherwise you could damage the grease boot or the threads of the tie rod. This actually worked on one side, but on the other I ended up unthreading the tie rod with the steering arm still attached to it. I was able to release the joint by lightly tapping the shaft of the tie rod to pop it free (again, I didn't hit it too hard). If those methods hadn't worked, I was prepared to buy a pickle fork which is specifically made for releasing ball joints like this.

Upper Control Arms
After removing the rotors, hub & shocks, I was able to remove the UCA from the frame. The main problem I had was trying to unthread the ball joint from the UCA so I could flip it around. After consulting w/ the forum, I ended up applying heat to the UCA plate with a propane torch to loosen the Loctite that was on the threads, then hit it with a special ball joint socket (1-59/64") and the impact wrench. This worked like a charm. That impact wrench is starting to look like a great purchase!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158553&d=1639370225

After this, I swapped the two coupler nuts so that the shorter trimmed one was in the rear, and the longer one was in the front. Then re-threaded the ball joint into the UCA plate so that it points outward like the assembly manual says. Finally, I adjusted the coupler nuts so that it matches the recommended dimensions in the manual for the pre-alignment settings. Please take a looks and if anything looks off, let me know.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158549&d=1639368385

Wilwood rotors
I noticed while disassembling the rotors, that the arrow on the rotor and on the brake caliper were not going in the same direction. I had read in the Wilwood instructions that the rotors were side-specific, so I figured this was also wrong. I went ahead and swapped them so the arrows are now going in the same direction. I asked around and this seems to be the correct assembly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158552&d=1639370091

Some more pics of the finished job:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158554&d=1639370462

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158555&d=1639370595

dbo_texas

12-28-2021, 11:02 PM

This weekend I was able to do a little bit of work on the Cobra. But first, I spent about 6 hrs putting together this awesome UGears model my wife got me for Christmas. I was shocked how detailed this kit was. Highly recommended if you are in to this sort of thing:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159355&d=1640749299

On to the RT Turn signal install. I followed the directions and got it installed without too much difficulty. For me the hardest part was separating the solid upper steering shaft (with spring washers) from the middle hollow steering shaft. In the end, to get them apart I removed both (through the engine side), then used a piece of rebar to tap the solid shaft out. I sanded it down good, but find that after you slide it into the hollow tube just past the 2nd dome washer it gets extremely difficult to go any further. I'm not sure what the issue is.

Anyhow, I installed the RT turn signal system by mounting the bracket, match drilling the 3 holes, and then loosely installing the 3 bolts. Next I installed the steering shaft to make sure the RT system tube was aligned with the steering shaft. Then I tightened everything down. I have a couple of questions I was hoping the forum could answer:

Is it normal for the steering shaft / RT turn signal body to be angled the way it is (axis of blue line)? It looks like it runs parallel w/ the trans tunnel DS wall, vs. perpendicular coming out of the dash (red line). I wasn't sure if this was normal. If NOT normal, what did I screw up and how do I fix it? It looks like the bearing block is angled relative to the RT mounting bracket which is dictating the angle of the steering shaft. When testing it out, there is no binding or issues with turning the steering wheel.
I'm planning to install the NRG quick-release hub once I get the parts. Since that adds about 0.5-0.75" thickness, I wanted to cut off about 1/2" of the RT tube to allow the turn signal & steering wheel to sit closer...basically just beyond the dash surface (see yellow arrows below - this is the amount I would cut off basically). Any issues with this plan? Should I just take a hacksaw to the aluminum tube on the RT turns signal?
I plan to mount my FFR carbon fiber dash next, and will need to cut the hole for the steering column to pass through. What is the best method to find the exact center of the steering column on the dash with the RT turn signal setup? I thought about removing the RT tube, but leaving the bearing block for the steering shaft to pass through. Then I could remove the joint, and slide the shaft towards the engine until it clears the back side of the dash and then mark it on the back side of the dash. Is there a better way to do this?
I checked my power steering rack - it is only about 2 full revolutions lock-to-lock. Is that normal? I do have the Breeze rack limiters installed, and the tire just barely rubs the F-panel on the DS (clears on the PS F-panel by about 3/16"). Seems like if I removed the travel limiter clips I'd get significantly more rubbing. I was just surprised it is only 2 full revolutions lock-to-lock. Can anyone confirm if this is normal/expected with the FFR power steering setup?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159354&d=1640749128

edwardb

12-28-2021, 11:13 PM

Yes it's normal for the steering column to be a bit off axis. It has an angle to work through the engine compartment and the various engine/header combinations. You'll get used to it within minutes of driving. No big deal. Yes, you can cut some off the RT aluminum tube. I did the same thing when I installed the RT and NRG setup in my Coupe. Russ has a step in the tube that fits into the turn signal mechanism. He has it longer than it needs to be when delivered. I was able to trim just over 1/2-inch and push the mechanism back to the beginning of the step. That's the maximum I could do without taking more drastic measures. The other end has a plastic bushing and didn't want to mess with that. My NRG installation added only 7/16-inch of distance from the steering wheel to the dash. To cut the hole in the dash, I agree, remove the RT assembly. Then mount the dash with the bare column sticking through. Then mark what needs to be cut to clear the RT assembly. Mike Everson has a nice trim ring that cleans up the opening that I've used on my builds. No help on the steering rack. I haven't used the rack from FF. I'm sure the limiters are preventing you from getting the actual spec turn ratio. But kind of a moot point if the tires hit.

dbo_texas

12-31-2021, 07:40 PM

zackmd1

01-01-2022, 12:02 PM

I'm working on setting up the carbon fiber dash to install into the chassis. I think I'm going with the competition layout. I searched the forum and FB group and can't seem to find a good consensus for how to locate the carbon fiber dash on the frame. Some say to make the top of the dash flush with the top of the hoop...some say it should be slightly below (3/16" to 3/8") and some say it should be slightly above. The FFR assembly manual only says "The corners of the dash support tube are 3/16” below the top edge of the dash. The tube will be lower as it goes to the middle." This implies that at the middle, the dash would sit slightly higher than the hoop. Can anyone confirm if these same instructions apply to the carbon fiber dash, or is there a better reference for how to properly fit the CF dash to the frame (MK4)?

If your dash is anything like my carbon dash, the corners of the steel pipe will be flush with the edge of the dash with the center of the dash edge being about 3/16" or so higher than the steel pipe. The glove box lip on my dash forced this as the dash could not go any higher without hitting the bottom of the steel pipe. Do not have a great picture of this but here is an overall. My thought is that this is the proper fitment since the center dash support I have "mostly" fits (dash should be slightly higher to actually fit better but as mentioned before, that's impossible with the glove box lip hitting the bottom of the steel pipe)

dbo_texas

01-05-2022, 12:51 PM

zackmd1

01-05-2022, 05:08 PM

Thanks for the info. I got the glove box installed this past weekend so I will mount it to the frame w/ the RT turn signal and see where it ends up. BTW - those gauges look awesome - they look like they are quite a bit larger than the standard FFR vintage gauges. What size are those?

No problem!

The gauges are New Vintage CFR series. I believe the speedo and Tach are 4 5/8" with the smaller ones being 2 1/16". They have integrated turn signal and high beam indicators and are backlit. I will say though that the tach barely fits in that area to the left of the steering wheel....

dbo_texas

01-19-2022, 12:14 AM

Over the last few weekends I assembled and installed the FFR carbon fiber dash, along with the Russ Thompson turn signal w/ NRG quick release. More on those items in the next post.

For the CF dash, I followed the included instructions for assembling the glove box. It was a serious pain to get it all together, and took quite a bit of grinding on the hinges and opening up the holes in the dash (the holes are way too small to get the screws through it). With enough persuasion I was able to get it all together but it took way longer than it should have. I also spent quite a bit of time grinding the opening for the glove box lock which should have been super simple. I used epoxy like the instructions say to trap the hinge between the aluminum panel, and epoxied the panel to the glovebox door.

Here is the end result after getting the glove box together. I put tape over the entire face just to protect it until I'm ready to do final install. The gauge layout is based loosely on EdwarB's modified competition layout. I tweaked a few of the locations (such as the speedo and fuel gauges due to the lower switch bumpout which the CF dash has that the stock aluminum dash doesn't have. There is a raised surface around the bumpout that would prevent the exact location from his dimensions, but no big deal. I kind of like the look having the 3 smaller gauges follow a slight arc. Also - these locations are temporary as I plan to mount the seat and adjust the final locations in the car.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160424&d=1642528755

Open glovebox:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160426&d=1642528792

Next up I was ready to mount the dash onto the frame (temporarily). However, the steering shaft & Russ Thompson turn signal tube both protrude through the dash, so they prevent mounting. So I removed both of them (steering shaft & RT turn signal bracket), then re-mounted the steering shaft pillow bearing using a pair of washers to lift it up the the same height it sits with the RT bracket. After remounting it, I re-installed the steering shaft and pushed it up until it was flush with the back side of the dash. Here is a picture of that (ignore the cardboard - I had added this before just to give me a rough idea that the shaft was in the right spot that I originally had it...call it a gut check).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160431&d=1642528860

Next up, I needed to finalize the position of the dash. Upon the advice of some of the other folks on the forum, I pushed the dash as high as I could until the glove box hit the underside of the frame hoop - this is as high as you can go. Next, I centered the steering shaft on the MK3-MK4 marks on the dash aluminum template - this gave me a good approximate left-to-right location for the dash. Finally, I used a level along the straight bottom edge of the dash to finalize the position, then clamped it to the hoop. The final position put the top of the hoop pretty much flush with the top of the frame hoop, the DS edge of the dash sits almost exactly on the corner of the frame hoop, and on the PS the dash edge sits about 1/8" above the corner of the hoop.

Showing the DS positioning - at this point with the dash in its final position, I traced the steering shaft on the backside of the dash - this tells me exactly where to cut my hole for the RT turn signal tube:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160433&d=1642528860

Showing the PS positioning:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160434&d=1642528877

Overall engine side view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160435&d=1642528877

And finally the finished cockpit side view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160436&d=1642528877

The last step was to remove the dash, remove the aluminum template, and cut the hole for the RT turn signal tube. After that I remounted the RT system, brought the steering shaft forward, and remounted the dash.

dbo_texas

01-19-2022, 12:40 AM

I bought the under-dash filler panel from Replicaparts. This piece gives the dash quite a bit of extra stability. I plan to mount the dash to the frame hoop using L-brackets with 3M dual-lock strips (think super strong velcro!). Several builders have used this with success as a way to mount the dash without visible fasteners going through the dash. However, adding the filler panel really strengthens the dash, and also gives you a great way to discretely mount additional switches, buttons, and USB ports.

To mount this filler panel on the MK4 with CF dash, you need to do some slight modifications. Essentially, the steering bracket that is mounted to the frame interferes with the filler panel and prevents it from being positioned correctly on the 2x2 frame member. The panel will also interfere with any switches placed in the dash bump out so you need to notch the panel there as well. Mike Everson from Replicaparts recommended that I cut off the section to the left of the bracket on the DS. I did this, but I kept the little small strip on the end. I also notched out about a 2" deep section along the front edge right where the bump out on the CF dash is. Here are the cuts I made:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160484&d=1642569868

With the dash mounted in its final position, I then mounted the two pieces of the underdash panel (the main section, and the little strip to the left of the steering column). Clamp those pieces in place, mark and drill the rivet holes into the 2x2 frame member, and cleco to hold them in place. Finally, mark the dash lip with the pre-drilled screw hole locations on the filler panel where they meet up with the dash lip. I lost a few holes when I trimmed the area around the dash bump, so I just added a few more holes to each side of the notch. Two of the holes lie underneath the glove box (i.e. you don't have access to mark the holes), so once I removed the dash & panel from the frame I aligned the filler panel to the outside of the dash lip (vs. the inside), and marked those 2 hidden holes from the outside of the lip instead of the inside. After that, simply drill out the holes in the dash lip. Finally, install the little clip nuts on the filler panel (included with the panel), and remount the panel and dash. I installed the black finishing screws (provided w/ filler panel) just to make sure all the holes aligned and they did. Here is the final product - At some point I'll add some additional holes to mount the buttons for the gauges (speedo and clock) and possibly a USB port or two.

Closeup around steering column:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160440&d=1642528898

Overall:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160439&d=1642528898

dbo_texas

01-19-2022, 01:15 AM

Like many other builders, I like the idea of being able to remove the steering wheel, both as a theft deterrent and also because I'm 6'1 / 220 lbs, it will give me a lot more room getting in/out of the car. I know it isn't necessary, but I also think it's a cool addition. I bought the NRG p/n SRK-500CF (CF = carbon fiber)...they make it in many different colors/finishes but I chose the carbon fiber to match my dash. With kit received, I pretty much followed the exact instructions from this forum post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34975-Quick-Release-Russ-Thompson-turn-signal), especially post #15 in that thread which describes the best way to align the quick release with the RT hub to get the best screw spacing and center the "Open/Close" text on the quick release. It worked great, and I'm really happy with the final result. I'm wondering if it is possible to buy another one of the wheel side adapters so I can have both the leather steering wheel and the wooden vintage wheel and easily swap them out. I'll reach out to NRG and see if they sell just that half of the kit.

Anyhow, here are the steps I followed. I 3D printed the little round jigs that have been floating around the forum and FB page...I only used those to keep the RT hub concentric w/ the NRG adapter, and likewise to keep the wheel concentric with the other half of the NRG adapter. The jig worked great!.

Step 1: I cut this section off the NRG QR adapter (side that mounts to the RT hub). I disassembled the outer ring just so I wouldn't accidentally damage or scuff it. You could skip this cutting step and use a spacer that NRG makes (p/n SRK-500BK), but by trimming it you save about 1/2" on the depth. I didn't end up using the spacer and elected to trim the QR adapter. But you do have to either cut it or use the spacer...this section of the adapter interferes with the RT hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160443&d=1642528898
Looks like this after trimming:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160445&d=1642529027

Step 2: After mating up the two halves of the NRG adapter, I realized that the wheel side adapter sticks through just enough to interfere with the RT hub also, so I cut off that section as well. I've seen some people just grind it down instead of cutting it off, but I don't think it makes a big difference. Here is the interference, and the fix:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160452&d=1642529051
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160453&d=1642529069

Step 3: Mark holes in hub. To do this, you need to mark the centerline of the RT hub --> Russ stamps a little "T" in his hub. On the QR adapter, just align the top screw hole with this location. Use the 3D printed adapter to keep the two parts concentric, and then use a center punch to mark the hole locations.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160451&d=1642529051

Step 4: Drill RT hub where you marked the holes. The QR adapter comes with M5 socket head cap screws, so you need to drill 4.2mm holes and tap them w/ an M5 thread tap. I suggest you use a drill press to keep the holes perpendicular to the surface. If you followed the instructions in the link above, these new M5 holes should be fairly evenly spaced between the original 1/4-20 threaded holes on the RT hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160456&d=1642529069

Step 5: Trim the original (6x) countersink steering wheel screws by about 3mm, and add countersinks to the original 1/4-20 tapped holes in the front section of the RT hub. Trimming is necessary since we are repurposing these screws to hold the two halves of the RT hub together and we don't want them protruding out the back. You then need to add 82° countersinks to these holes - make sure the countersink is large enough that the screw sits sub-flush with the surface. Screw the two halves of the RT hub together using the trimmed 1/4-20 flathead screws (originally used to mount the steering wheel, now used to fasten the two halves of the RT hub together).

Step 6: Mount the rear portion of the NRG QR hub to the front section of the RT hub using the (6x) M5 socket head cap screws provided with the NRG QR. Make sure to use some blue Loctite (medium).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160457&d=1642529069

to be continued...

dbo_texas

01-19-2022, 01:18 AM

(continued form previous post)

Step 7: Now that the back half is done, its time to drill new holes in the steering wheel. The front half of the NRG QR adapter uses M5 threads as well, so you need to go and buy (6x) M5x14 flathead screws. Next, use the 3D printed jig to make sure the NRG adapter is concentric w/ the steering wheel. Pay special attention to the orientation of the adapter relative to the steering wheel. You want to make sure you have the correct hole at the top, so that this front half of the QR adapter can mount to the back half of the adapter (already mounted to the RT hub). Mark your hole locations on the steering wheel using a center punch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160455&d=1642529069

Step 8: Drill out the (6x) new holes in the steering wheel. They should be in the exact same pattern/locations as the ones you drilled on the RT hub. I used drill size 5.5mm (for an M5 screw) and added a 90° countersink (for metric screws). Make sure the countersink is large enough that the screw sits sub-flush.

Step 9: Mount the steering wheel to the front half NRG QR adapter using the M5x14 flathead screws + blue Loctite. Now you are DONE!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160462&d=1642529095

Backside of the wheel:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160459&d=1642529095

Final install:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160464&d=1642529115

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160463&d=1642529115

dbo_texas

01-30-2022, 02:37 PM

This week I had two projects I wanted to knock out since I'm hoping to send the panels off for powder coat next week, and both of these projects had parts I needed to throw in with the powder coat lot. The first was the Breeze front battery mount kit, and the second is the custom bracket for mounting the triple reservoir.

For the Breeze front battery box, I've seen several Coyote builders add this and I like the idea of moving the battery up front. This gives you back your trunk space, creates shorter power cable runs, and puts the battery weight in the front right corner which is the lightest corner. Not that I care about the weight distribution too much as I don't plan to race this. I bought the kit several months ago with my flex fuel line kit and other items.

The kit Breeze provides is stainless steel. I'm going to have the box and cross bars powder coated with all the other aluminum panels so I wanted to make sure I had all the holes drilled and placement confirmed. The install was pretty straight forward following the provided instructions. I still need to add the 90° grease fitting Breeze provides to replace the straight fitting on the LCA pivot. Once the battery is installed, you wouldn't be able to attach the grease gun hose to the straight fitting, so they provide a 90° fitting to solve that problem. I also haven't drilled the negative terminal attachment point to the frame. I'll add those later. For now, I will just leave the box cleco'd in place until I remove it to send it off for paint. Once all my parts are off for paint, I plan to pull the engine/trans so I can get the panels re-installed and riveted in place. So this box will go back in permanently (with rivets) AFTER the engine/trans goes back in. I just don't want it in the way as I try to drop the engine back in.

Here is the kit:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161448&d=1643569865

Here is the installed finished product. It is quite easy to install. The box comes with 3 holes pre-drilled that go into the X-tube. I added 3 more for a total of 6 rivet holes that I had to drill into the X-tube. On the front of the 4" transverse tube, I drilled 2 more holes for the 1/4-20 screws. you need to use some washers between the 4" tube and the back of the battery box.
I was only able to fit washers on one side, as the side closest to the LCA was basically flush with the tube. The only issue I had drilling the hole for the 1/4-20 tap closest to the LCA pivot - it was more of a problem with drilling the hole, not the actual tapping. But in the end I drilled a slightly angled hole (due to drill access under the X-tube). But when I tapped the hole I was able to straighten it out. I don't have the battery yet but plan to use the same one EdwardB used in his 20th anniversary build. The box and 2 sheet metal "L" brackets will go out for powder with all the aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161449&d=1643569865

dbo_texas

01-30-2022, 03:18 PM

To mount this, I'm repurposing the "L" bracket FFR provides for mounting the Coyote PDB (Power Distribution Box) on top of the RH footbox. Like many others, I plan to mount the PDB directly to the firewall so didn't need this bracket. It is pretty much the perfect size to mount my polished aluminum triple reservoir (OTB Gear 6444). The previous builder had already purchased this triple reservoir, and it looks pretty nice so I thought I'd use it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161464&d=1643571830

I trimmed the FFR bracket to size, then mounted the reservoir to the bracket w/ (4x) 1/4-20 truss head screws I had laying around. Here is where I would love some advice form the forum. Right now I have the end of the reservoir mounted 20" from the front 3/4" cross tube. This is to clear the hood gas strut when the hood is closed. Ideally I'd like to move the reservoirs much closer toward the pedal box. But that would put it directly over the -6AN connection going into the hydroboost and I'm worried a right-angle fitting won't clear the bottom of the reservoirs. I haven't drilled the holes in the 3/4" frame yet for mounting the bracket. I need to figure out the hose routing to the hydroboost first. Can anyone take a quick measurement of the right-angle -6AN fitting and let me know how tall it is? I can also maybe angle that hose toward the engine slightly, and the route it toward the front. I don't think it will interfere with anything like that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161463&d=1643570500

Here is how I'd like to mount everything (below). These pics are from someone on the FFR Builder FB page that sent me of their routing w/ a Forte Hydroboost setup. As you can see, the triple reservoir is mounted as close to the pedal box as it can get. The hose routing on this is clean. The main difference is that the hydroboost in this setup is rotated slightly counter-clockwise (looking from the front) vs. my setup, which rotates the -6AN fitting closer toward the engine and gives it a little more clearance away from the reservoirs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161465&d=1643573132

Any advice on this one? I may just go buy the right angle -6AN fitting and see how it looks. If it clears, I'm all good. If not, I'll need to keep the reservoir where I have it and make it work. Another option might be to change the rotation of the hydroboost. I know nothing about it (no documentation from Forte on how to set it up) so I'd want to reach out to Forte before messing with anything, as I know he modified the pedal box for the previous builder and shipped it back pre-assembled.

dbo_texas

05-10-2022, 11:36 AM

Haven't posted in a while - had to put the project aside for the last few months, but I'm finally getting back into it. Last weekend I installed the firewall support bracket from Replicaparts. Nothing fancy here - had to do a little bit of trimming, then fit the bracket and mounted with some clecos. For now this is what it looks like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166550&d=1652199945

I might cut out the center section of the aluminum to allow cables and other items to pass through, but that is still TBD.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166555&d=1652200537

Upon the recommendation of a few folks on the FB FFR Builder page, I also went ahead and extended the cut on this PS filler panel by about 1/2". I guess the added notch depth helps the dash bracket rake angle clear without interference and allows it to mount properly. One of those things I probably would have found later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166549&d=1652199789

I also added some more rivet holes to the cockpit rear wall aluminum, to fasten it between where the seat belt harness passes through. The only rivet holes I have left to drill are to add some more rivets to the floor pan. I'm not sure where to drill though, so will be seeking some advice on this shortly.

dbo_texas

06-16-2022, 01:43 PM

This past weekend I finally was able to finish drilling out all the cockpit aluminum. There were 3 areas that hadn't been completed yet:

(1) The passenger side firewall closeout panel
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168169&d=1655404507

(2) The cockpit rear wall (added more rivets)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168171&d=1655404523

(3) The cockpit floor pans
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168170&d=1655404507

I believe this finishes up all the aluminum panel drilling. I think I'm ready to pull all the panels and send out for re-finishing (black powdercoat).

dbo_texas

06-16-2022, 02:04 PM

Another task I finished a few weeks ago was to make some small custom "L" brackets for mounting the dash to the hoop without any visible fasteners. This basically allow me to "velco" the dash to the frame hoop without having the screw heads visible on the front of the dash per the assembly manual. Several folks suggested that using the 3M Dual Lock velcro in a few places is plenty strong enough to support the dash. I also have the under-dash filler panel from ReplicaParts, so between these two it should hold up just fine.

First I cut a 3 or 4 small "L" brackets from some 3/4" angle aluminum. Then simply stuck the 3M Dual Lock onto the dash facing side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168166&d=1655404507

Next, I drilled and tapped some holes in the underside of the frame hoop and mounted the "L" brackets with (2x) screws + Loctite. After doing this I'm considering re-drilling the holes and installing rivnuts instead of just tapping directly into the frame hoop. I honestly think either will be fine, but the rivnuts may be better long-term.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168168&d=1655404507

From the front:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168167&d=1655404507

Here are the locations on the dash - I think I actually moved them around a bit because the steering column obstructed me from being able to drill some of the holes (don't have a right angle drill adapter). For the final positions, I can access all the screws from below the dash ((through the under-dash panel) if I need to remove the dash. I'm not sure if I would be able to do this with the body on or not.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168174&d=1655404961

Also, I've been experimenting with some color spray outs on speed shapes I bought on amazon (link (https://www.amazon.com/Didspade-Custom-Paint-Additives-Hydrodipping/dp/B084SG1VHW/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1WFTDX75TMZ6Y&keywords=speed+shape&qid=1655406118&sprefix=speed+shape%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-6)). I'm nowhere near ready for bodywork and paint, but I do need to pick a direction fairly soon with regards to whether I'm going to black out all the brightwork or stick with the stainless/chrome appearance. I have 2 primary color schemes I like - one for the blacked out look, and one if I go the more classis look. I used 12oz automotive aerosol sprays for some of these, and a few I used my new $30 airbrush which works even better and is cheaper because I can get 2oz jars of pretty much any OEM color for ~$12/ea vs. the $35 for the 12oz aerosol cans. I do have some 2k automotive clearcoat but I haven't sprayed that on yet. I'll do all of them at once after I finish mocking up a few more samples (waiting on paints to arrive next week).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168175&d=1655405787

dbo_texas

08-09-2022, 07:08 PM

Got all of my panels back from the powder coater last weekend. It only took about 3 weeks (they told me it would be 4-6 weeks) and the cost was around $500 which I thought was more than reasonable considering they blasted all the POR15 from a bunch of the panels, removed leftover silicone adhesive, and included all my after-market kit parts (front batter box, drop-trunk box, cockpit cubby, radiator shroud, under-dash panel, etc). I went with a smooth satin finish and the parts look fantastic. Next up for me is to finish up all the bolts in the rear end, then I'll re-tack the panels up and silicone/rivet where possible, leaving the DS footbox open and a the trunk area until I can run my brake lines, fuel lines and rear electrical harness.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170825&d=1660089731

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170824&d=1660089731

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170823&d=1660089731

facultyofmusic

08-09-2022, 07:52 PM

dbo_texas

08-10-2022, 10:56 PM

Loving the build quality and documentation thoroughness of your thread, keep it up guy! I'm a little late to the party, but in post #41 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=470064&viewfull=1#post470064)you showed a plan on how to route your fuel pressure regulator and return lines. Does the Gen 2 coyote not require a throttle vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator? I guess what I'm saying is, will 55psi constant fuel pressure be enough for your purposes?

From talking to Mike Forte and Mark Reynolds at Breeze Automotive, for my application and setup I think this will work great and simplify the fuel line routing. The regulator is a LS Corvette style fixed pressure at 58 psi. I have the 190 lph fuel pump hanger, which they say will work fine with the smaller 1/4“ return from the regulator. I guess if you have the larger 255 lph pump you need a different regulator with a larger 3/8" return.

I'm not sure about your question about the throttle vacuum line - I'm gonna need to research that one unless somebody else wants to chime in. I'm sure this is something well documented on the forum and in peoples build threads.

edwardb

08-10-2022, 11:25 PM

From talking to Mike Forte and Mark Reynoldsat Breeze Automotive, for my application and setup I think this will work great and simplify the fuel line routing. The regulator is a LS Corvette style fixed pressure at 58 psi. I have the 190 lph fuel pump hanger, which they say will work fine with the smaller 1/4“ return from the regulator. I guess if you have the larger 255 lph pump you need a different regulator with a larger 3/8" return.

I'm not sure about your question about the throttle vacuum line - I'm gonna need to research that one unless somebody else wants to chime in. I'm sure this is something week documented.

Lots of people have run the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyotes with the GM fixed regulator with no problem. It doesn't have provision for the vacuum reference line. Which is used per Ford Performance and FF installation instructions. But the engine runs fine without it. In fact, if doing a Lund tune, they tell you not to use it with a normally aspirated setup, e.g. a Coyote without boost like a supercharger. The GM piece isn't technically applicable for a Gen 3 since it's supposed to be run at a higher PSI than the fixed 58. My Gen 3 Coyote Coupe has an Aeromotive Universal 13129 Bypass Regulator with no vacuum reference line and a Lund tune. Runs great.

The smaller lines are OK with the lower volume pump as I understand. Both of my Coyote builds have a 255lhp pump with 3/8" supply and return. Lots of forum discussion early on with higher volume pumps burning out and the smaller lines were thought to be an issue. Aeromotive specifically says use 3/8" lines with my pump.

egchewy79

08-11-2022, 06:08 AM

dbo_texas

08-12-2022, 10:06 AM

I feel so much better now with the panels re-finished :) I don't know why but it was stressing me out seeing the POR15 in there, flaking off everywhere. Getting excited to get moving onto the next bullet list item.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170937&d=1660316702

dbo_texas

09-05-2022, 09:44 PM

This weekend I finally decided to work on the fuel system and install the Breeze single line kit for Gen2 Coyotes. But first, heeding the advice of many I went ahead and replaced the FFR provided fuel filler neck gasket with the much higher quality OEM Ford p/n F4ZZ-9072-DA. This was an easy swap, and good insurance to help reduce the chance of leaks around the filler neck. For reference as to why I did this, see HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32764-Fuel-leak-around-Fuel-Filler-neck) (an many other similar posts on this forum).

As I purchased my kit used, I didn't originally install the gasket, but it was easy enough to work the filler neck out, then remove the old gasket.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172072&d=1662431702+

Next, I installed the OEM gasket. I put a little bit of motor oil on the gasket to lubricate it and help with installation. It was easy to shape it into the hole. Finally, I applied a small amount of motor oil to the filler next and inserted it into the grommet - also very easy with the oil on it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172074&d=1662431702

Final step was to reinstall the bracket which prevents the neck from backing out. For this, the instructions look like the bracket points towards the rear, but on my tank the mounting hole would have interfered with the weld joint on the tank, so I had to flip it around. I don't think this will cause any issues as far as I can tell, but please let me know if there are any concerns with this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172075&d=1662431702

dbo_texas

09-05-2022, 10:16 PM

As shown in post #41 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=470064&viewfull=1#post470064), I had a plan for how to connect this Breeze system. Here's a link to the kit I used, but the Cliff Notes are that this system provides a fixed 58 psi outlet to the engine, and all excess fuel is returned directly to the tank from the regulator/filter which is direct mounted to the fuel pump hanger on the tank. This means you only need to run a single fuel line up to the engine bay (i.e. no need to run a return line back to the tank).

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/fuel-filter-regulator-and-line-kit-for-coyote/

I followed the provided instructions and it was super easy to install. Step one was to swage the 5/16 to 1/4 flaring adapter (p/n 21620) onto the regulator 5/16 return outlet. This is as easy as turning a nut while holding the adapter body in place. Driving the nut down 1-1/4 turns flares the line and the nut and flare become captive on the filter/regulator 5/16 return line.

Next, I removed the fuel pump hanger from the tank, cut off the 1/4" return line just behind the flange, and file the OD & ID smooth. The trim just shortens the entire assembly so it fits in the frame better.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172085&d=1662433953

Next up, I re-installed the fuel hanger into the tank, and direct mounted the regulator to the freshly trimmed 1/4" return on the fuel hanger using the previously mounted adapter. Same procedure is used (just tighten the nut). After this, I installed the 3/8" to 6AN outlet adapter to the filter regulator. This is what it looks like at this point:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172080&d=1662431725

Next, I attached the 3/8" send line from the fuel pump hanger outlet to the filter regulator inlet using the quick-connects on the hose (p/n 70748). Looks like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172081&d=1662431725

Finally, I re-mounted to fuel tank, making sure to put in the drop trunk box as that needs to go in above the tank.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172083&d=1662431732

I wasn't able to get the tank strap bolts to go through the straps - the DS seemed like it was about 1/2" short, and the PS was more like 1" too short. After messing with it for about 20 minutes and reading about this same issue many others have had with the straps, I gave up and went to Home Depot and just bought longer 3/8 x 3" bolts (FFR kit provides 2" length). Problem solved.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172084&d=1662431732

I went ahead and attached the regulator grounding strap to the 3/4" frame rail using a #10-24 bolt (tapped the frame rail). The Breeze instructions say you can remove the grounding strap, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to keep it.
The other adapters provided in the Breeze kit get mounted to the Coyote fuel rail (converts to 6AN connection), and onto the ends of the provided PTFE+Braided Stainless Steel 3/8 fuel hose. Routing the fuel line from the regulator to the engine bay will be next up on my to-do list.

edwardb

09-06-2022, 04:04 AM

dbo_texas

09-06-2022, 05:36 PM

Unfortunately, you missed the part in the manual and in other posts about flattening the flange on the fuel tank where those plastic bumpers on the frame contact the fuel tank. Those need to be against the flat of the tank flange. Not against the edge like showing in your picture. You need to correct that to get a much more solid fuel tank mounting. The provided bolts are a bit short and many replace them as you did. But leaving the flange bent like that made the situation worse.

Went back and checked the manual closely and I did indeed miss that little bit of important text. I saw the flanges on the tank bent and I thought the previous builder made those bends intentionally since they were directly where the straps come up from below. This is exactly why I love keeping a detailed build thread with lots of pictures. I'll lower the tank, flatten those flanges and see how the fit looks after that. Thanks for reviewing and helping out the newbs like me!

dbo_texas

09-06-2022, 08:12 PM

OK went back and straightened out the tank flange. This did allow me to get the original DS strap bolt installed, but I still had to use the longer bolt on the PS strap. I went ahead and replaced both with the longer bolts (use 2.5" on DS, and 3" on PS). The tank is sturdy - no play whatsoever.

Before: Tank flange w/ bends
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172126&d=1662512938

After straightening the flange with pliers:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172127&d=1662512938

Installed: showing DS w/ 2.5" bolt
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172128&d=1662512938

460.465USMC

09-11-2022, 03:21 PM

Hi Darryl. I enjoyed getting caught up on your build thread. I remember reading back when you bought the kit, and thought it was pretty cool it also came with some good tools. It looks like you are putting together a quality build, and you're doing a great job documenting it. Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing.

I added your NRG QR update to my quick release bookmarks. I'm going to tackle this mod in the not so distant future. Thanks again.

dbo_texas

09-28-2022, 10:40 AM

As many others have done, I created an activated charcoal filter to help reduce the gas smell coming from the tank vent line. This is a super cheap mod so why not? Many have done this but I pretty much copied EdwardB except used a different bracket. I think he may have increased the size of the vent hose coming from the tank as well...I stuck with the size that came w/ my kit (1/4").

Here's the parts used:

(1x) 3M Scotchbright pad
(1x) 2" PVC coupler - Home Depot
(2x) 2" PVC caps w/ 1/2" NPT threaded hole - Home Depot
(1x) 2" pipe bracket - Home Depot (spray painted black)
(1x) nylon barb (1/2" NPT male to 1/4" barb) - Amazon
(1x) activated carbon - Amazon

For assembly, simply cut the 3M Scotchbright pads into round circles that fit into each cap, then thread the barb fitting into one cap. Install the barbed cap into the PVC coupler (I added a little epoxy to fix in place), then fill w/ activated charcoal. Cap off the top with the other cap (no barb, no epoxy in case I need to remove cap and swap carbon). Plug in 1/4" vent hose coming from gas tank, and mount to trunk sidewall panel near tank filler neck. For mounting, I'm considering adding rivnuts to the bracket so that the screws would come from the trunk side (TBD) for easier access.

Parts:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173135&d=1664377091

Install pads:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173138&d=1664377091

Install barb into lower cap:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173139&d=1664377091

Fill w/ activated carbon:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173136&d=1664377091

Finished install location:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173137&d=1664377091

460.465USMC

09-28-2022, 03:31 PM

Nice work, Darryl! I built a very similar vapor filter (also inspired by Edwardb's), and can report no fumes in the garage over the summer. It does the job. If I put my nose right at the output of the filter, I can smell gas, but even a couple feet away and no smell. I probably should have anchored my bracket in the trunk's side wall like you. Would have been easier than drilling/tapping into the 3" chassis square tube just below.

Ted G

09-28-2022, 03:45 PM

Just curious if the carbon needs to be replaced from time to time?? Thanks,

dbo_texas

09-30-2022, 12:48 PM

Just curious if the carbon needs to be replaced from time to time?? Thanks,

Typically I think over time the carbon will become less effective and would need to be replaced. I have no idea how often that is though...I would guess maybe every year or two. I should be able to unscrew the bracket from below pull it off the vent line, pop the top cap off and re-fill. I need to see if the bracket I have will work for that or if I need to fab up something different and use the ratchet style pipe clamp (like used on hoses/barb connections). That typically requires a single screw and you just loosen it enough to wiggle the PVC out. But not sure yet...I'll need to see what access looks like with the body on.

dbo_texas

10-26-2022, 03:28 PM

A few weekends ago I finally cut holes in the FFR carbon fiber dash so I could mount the Vintage GPS gauges. I was a bit nervous because once you start cutting you are basically locked in on gauge position. In the end, like many things related to this build, just taking time and planning ahead made the task very simple. Here are the general steps I took:

Step 1 - layout the gauges: I positioned them where I think I would have best visibility and per my aesthetic tastes. I had the seat temporarily positioned so I could evaluate visibility. I had painters tape on the dash to protect it while working.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174205&d=1666806538
Step 2 - I drilled a small pilot hole at the center point of each of the 7 gauges, then used a compass (old school) to trace out the diameter for each cut
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174207&d=1666806538
Step 3 - This is when I realized some of the gauges were too close to the curved dash hoop on the frame and would interfere. So I used that pilot hole to draw the diameter of each gauge nut on the backside of the dash. I saw a couple that would have interfered, so I shifted my pilot hole down just a tad and redrew the new cutout hole diameters. Measure twice, cut once and all that...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174206&d=1666806538
Step 4 - To cut the actual holes, I didn't have a hole saw so I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to make polygon cuts for each hole. The cutoff wheel goes through the CF dash like a hot knife through butter. Just make sure to wear good PPE (long sleeve shirt, respirator, goggles) - you do NOT want that CF dust getting on your skin or in your lungs
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174209&d=1666806538
Step 5 - After cutting the rough shape of the holes, I used a Dremel sanding drum to clean up each cut. This also worked great and the sanding drums actually remove the CF material better than I thought they would.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174211&d=1666806552
Step 6 - Finally, I was ready to mount the gauges.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174212&d=1666806552
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174214&d=1666806552

As I'm still undecided on my final color scheme, I am considering replacing the chrome bezels on the gauges with black anodized aluminum bezels which can be purchased from Speedhut. I also need to finish mounting some of the other dash items such as the indicator lights, ignition, horn, toggle switches, and headlight switch.

dbo_texas

11-06-2022, 08:52 PM

Over the last two weekends I got a chance to finally install my brake hard lines. I used the steel 3/16 lines included with the kit. Some of the lines had already been installed, but I had to pull them out because the routing interfered with placement of some of the accessories I've added such as the front battery box from Breeze. In this post I'll show a couple of the issues I encountered, and in the next I'll go over the actual routing.

I started out using a cheap bending tool from Harbor Freight - it actually worked just fine for bending the lines without kinking them. Where I ran into problems was using the cheap Harbor Freight 45 degree double flare kit. The mandrel on the kit I had was completely crooked and wouldn't make a straight flare. I tried fixing it but not matter what I tried I couldn't get a decent looking flare. I sent ahead and bought a new tool from Capri (on Amazon) and this thing worked like a charm, making perfect double flares (45 degree SAE) every time. Here's the tool:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174579&d=1667785819

Next up, I also had to buy a 37 degree flaring tool for my 3AN fitting connection to the Forte hydroboost setup. I bought a Rigid flaring tool and this too worked very well - no issues making the 37 degree single flares with this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174578&d=1667785819

I did a couple of practice flares and bends before starting the real deal. I used some of the old tubing that I pulled off, straightened it, and mocked up some of the more complex bends to create a pattern, then replicated it on the new 3/16 steel tubing I picked up from the local auto parts store.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174580&d=1667785819

In the next post I'll include pics and videos of how/where I routed the lines.

dbo_texas

11-06-2022, 09:29 PM

I'm including pictures (*and YouTube video*) of how I routed my brake lines. I used the 1/4" hose clips included with the kit and mounted them to the frame using the larger Ø3/16 rivets which have a larger head to grab the clip. Drilling into the Ø4in tube frame was easy w/ titanium bits and a dab of oil on the bit.

ROUTING:
I started out with the small connection from the front brake output on the hydroboost (3AN fitting, 37 degree single flare on 3/16 tube) and ran it along the top of the 3/4" square frame to the "T" fitting on the DS F-panel. All the other brake fittings use the standard 45 degree double SAE flare with 3/8-24 threaded couplings.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174581&d=1667787319

From the "T" fitting I ran another line around the upper left control arm mount, across the front of the X-tube, and around the PS upper right control arm mount. This is the same way many others have done it and keeps the line away from the front battery box mounting on the inside of the X-tube. I opted not to put the big coil loops in the line like the instructions indicated - I simply added a couple of extra bends to add some amount of flexibility in the lines (acts as a bit of strain relief on the tube).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174585&d=1667787319
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174583&d=1667787319

To run the lines from the hydroboost output to the rear, instead of running it down the front of the footbox, I elected to route the line across the bottom of the 3/4" frame tube toward the front (see pic above), then down the 2x2 beam to the Ø4 inch frame tube on the DS. The only reason for this was to keep the lines away from the header heat which runs right in front of the DS footbox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174586&d=1667787337

After this, I ran a straight section toward the rear. Unfortunately, the pieces of tubing length I used, plus routing, meant I needed 3 sections of tubing to make this long run from the front DS "T" fitting to the rear DS "T" fitting. If I had to do this over again, I would try to make it all from one piece to eliminate all the extra couplings which just adds potential leak points. But I didn't have a tube straightener, so opted to use the straight pieces of tubing that I was able to find at the local auto parts store. Here's the run from the front to the rear, using female-female inverted flare coupler nuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174587&d=1667787337

Once in the rear, I ran the line up the rear 2x2 frame member to the inside of the trunk bay and over to the rear "T" fitting on the DS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174588&d=1667787337

From here, I ran another line across the 2x2 frame member over to the PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174590&d=1667787337

Here's a quick video showing ALL of the routing in one go:

https://youtu.be/nxtOFrqO6a4

460.465USMC

11-07-2022, 10:45 PM

Congrats on getting your brake lines installed. That's a good feeling. I'll be curious to hear later on once you're on the road what you think of the brake booster. Looking good.

dbo_texas

11-08-2022, 01:39 PM

Congrats on getting your brake lines installed. That's a good feeling. I'll be curious to hear later on once you're on the road what you think of the brake booster. Looking good.

Thanks - I don't know why I was procrastinating getting the brake lines run - it wasn't too difficult and I actually liked the challenge. BTW I've been reading your build thread - great job documenting everything. I'm finding it to be a very useful resource.

dbo_texas

11-13-2022, 09:29 PM

This weekend I finalized the mounting for the triple reservoir. I was originally worried about how to route the power steering hydraulic lines and not interfere with the reservoirs, but it looks like it will snake between the hoses coming from the reservoir just fine with this new mounting scheme. I actually bought the Tilton triple reservoir than many folks use (p/n 72-576) but found it to be quite large so decided to stick with the OTBGear polished CNC reservoir (Item #6444 (http://www.otbgear.com/Triple-Remote-Fluid-Reservoir-P254.aspx)) that came with the kit when I bought it. I used one of the FFR aluminum brackets that has the FFR logo on it....I forget what this is typically used for (maybe the fuse box?). Anyhow, I repurposed it and mounted it to the back of the reservoir. To mount this to the frame, I cut a 6x1.5x.25 in. piece of steel using my angle grinder w/ cutoff wheel. Then I tapped 3x 1/4-20 holes which allowed me to secure the reservoir bracket to the steel strip.

Angle grinder to cut a strip of steel (used to mount reservoir bracket to frame):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174891&d=1668391752

To mount the steel strip bracket to the frame, I plan to use (3x) of the 3/16 rivets to permanently mount it. For now, I just have it tacked in place with Clecos because I'm worried it will end up in the way when I pull the engine later one.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174892&d=1668391752

After a couple coats of paint, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Here's a FRONT VIEW:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174899&d=1668391850

TOP VIEW - plenty of room to remove the dipstick:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174895&d=1668391752

FRONT ISO VIEW - easy to remove if needed (3x 1/4-20 screws):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174898&d=1668391850

Next couple of big tasks (in no particular order):

Finish routing flex fuel line
Radiator & expansion tank mount + plumbing mockup
Mount power steering components and route hoses
Mockup electrical harnesses

dbo_texas

11-19-2022, 05:39 PM

I need some help/advice on my hydroboost. I've read several forum posts about needing to verify the hydroboost pushrod depth is set so that it has a very minimum gap (~.020") to the master cylinder push rod. My setup is a 1999 Chevy pickup hydroboost from Forte's. I'm reaching out to Mike separately to see if he can offer advice here, but I thought I'd ask the group as well. I did talk to him on the phone and he confirmed this is something that should be checked. So I removed the master cylinder from the front of the hydroboost and measured the pushrods on both sides.

What I measured has me worried that the current setup is pre-loading the brakes. The distance from the mounting flange to the tip of the hydroboost pushrod is 1.238". The distance from the flange to the receptacle on the master cylinder side (which I'm pretty sure is connected to the master cylinder pushrod) is 0.852". This means they overlap by 0.386" and I believe this means the master cylinder pushrod is displaced by this amount when everything is bolted up. If this is true, then the brakes are always actuated which is not good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175207&d=1668896798

I am able to sort of confirm this by mating the two, and push them together until the hydroboost pushrod bottoms out on the master cylinder socket --> you can see the gap here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175209&d=1668896798

If I bolt it up, the master cylinder compresses and the gap closes up.

Can anyone confirm if I'm looking at this the right way? If so, it implies I need to shorten my hydroboost pushrod by about 0.406" --> this would leave a .020" gap between the two when mated together which seems to be about what most people recommend (YouTube videos like this (https://youtu.be/XfsiNSxxjsA?t=67)). All the videos I've seen are for a vacuum boost system, so maybe there is something different w/ a hydroboost that I'm missing? The pushrod in my hydroboost looks like this picture below - I'm assuming to shorten it I'll need to remove some of the nuts? Seems I would need at least two to use as locking nuts....so not sure I will be able to shorten it enough. I haven't messed with it yet because I wanted to make sure I understand what I'm doing before I start turning nuts. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175211&d=1668897415

edwardb

11-19-2022, 06:10 PM

dbo_texas

11-19-2022, 08:14 PM

You're on the right track. I had that exact issue with my #7750 build and posted this thread with the solution on the other forum. https://www.ffcars.com/threads/bled-brakes-zero-pedal-pressure-help.410697/. Mine had a solid pushrod. No adjustment or the nuts like yours. Without knowing how yours is made, would seem you could remove nuts to get the proper length. As long as there's one left to hold the length.

Thanks Paul for confirming my suspicion. I read through your post on #7750 and looks to be the exact same issue, as you mention. I'll pull it back apart and see if I can adjust the nuts to get the right overall length.

460.465USMC

11-21-2022, 05:09 PM

I used one of the FFR aluminum brackets that has the FFR logo on it....I forget what this is typically used for (maybe the fuse box?). Anyhow, I repurposed it and mounted it to the back of the reservoir.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174892&d=1668391752

Hi Darryl,

Your gut is right on the bracket. In the manual they show it installed on top of the PS FB, and attach the Coyote PDB (AKA fuse box) to it. This is where I mounted mine. Not a huge deal as some guys mount the PDB elsewhere. There's plenty of Coyote wire harness length to give you some leeway to mount it to the firewall, for example. Not a big deal if you don't have the bracket. Or, you can make another one if you want to mount it on the FB.

dbo_texas

12-05-2022, 10:00 PM

To close the loop on the Hydroboost discussion - I confirmed w/ Mike Forte that I needed to shorted the pushrod in they hydroboost. This should be pretty much flush (or very small gap, like .010" - .020") with the cup/receiver in the master cylinder. I took it apart and remeasured, but found the actual interference was exactly 0.25", not the 0.386" I measured last time. Looks like when I measured before the brake pedal wasn't pushed all the way to the stop. I measured multiple times just to be sure. Anyhow, to adjust the length I just had to remove the middle nut from the pushrod which was exactly 0.25" thick. I put a hefty amount of blue Loctite on the ball stud end threads and tightened it down - I was worried that getting rid of that middle lock nut would allow it to vibrate loose but with the Loctite I think it will be OK. If anyone disagrees let me know!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176398&d=1670295165

I do need to still replace the hydroboost power steering return nipple (5/16" thread) with a Hydrotech HBS9101 06AN adapter (or equivalent). This will allow me to run a braided stainless steel line from the return.

dbo_texas

12-05-2022, 10:20 PM

After fixing the hydroboost I moved on to finishing up installing the Coyote single-line fuel send kit (Breeze p/n 70766). Back in post #80 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=502607&viewfull=1#post502607) I detailed modifying the fuel pump hanger unit and mounting the pressure regulator per the Breeze instructions. The only thing left to do was run the stainless steel braided PTFE fuel line included with the kit. The nice thing about this is you don't need to cut anything on the hose - it's the right length from Breeze. You do have to install the 06AN fittings to each end, but I found that to be pretty easy following the instructions HERE (https://youtu.be/QFJ2ilmT5Lw?t=356). Here are some pics showing the routing - nothing new here...lot's of folks have routed this kit the same way. I followed the reference pics from GTBradley's build.

View from above the 45° 06AN fitting goes on this end:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176399&d=1670295870

A little hard to see but I mounted an insulated hose clip (included w/ the Breeze kit) to the underside of the frame tube where I'm pointing:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176400&d=1670295870

Then down the 2x2" frame behind the passenger side of the cockpit and along the outside of the Ø4" frame tube to the engine bay:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176401&d=1670295870

Up the passenger side footbox (in the engine bay), across the firewall and to the fuel rail on the Coyoted Gen2. I didn't add the mounting clips in the engine bay but I'll probably use 2 on the firewall and one on the footbox inside wall. I was waiting to mount all the other components (mostly electrical harness) to the firewall before I put the clips in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176402&d=1670295870

For now everything is just tacked in place w/ Clecos but I'll probably go and tap the holes for the #10-24 screws included w/ the Breeze kit (stainless steel + split lockwasher). No reason I can see not to go ahead and permanently mount this, and if I need to remove it later I can just pop the screws out.

dbo_texas

12-13-2022, 09:10 AM

I was looking over the Wilwood pedal setup in my build (assembled by previous builder) and see that they mounted both of the FFR provided switches for the brake and clutch (newer style with both NO & NC contact pairs). These are mounted on the little tabs in front of the pedal arms. I'm leaving the brake switch as-is because it seems to work well and triggers almost as soon as you touch the brake pedal. However, I'd like to remove the FFR clutch safety switch (mounted similar to the brake pedal switch) and use the switch provided with the Coyote Controls Pack instead because it triggers only when the clutch is pushed all the way in which I think is the intended use. I don't think I have either bracket shown below (I found this image on the forum), or at least I can't find them. They look laser cut so I assume they came from FFR. I have seen some people make their own custom mounts but I'd rather use FFR parts if they are available (will save me time). The Coyote Install Instructions (Gen 2) show the switch bracket and the actuator bracket mounted to the clutch quadrant, but since I'm using a hydraulic clutch I think I need something like this instead. I'm guessing at some point FFR added this other version which doesn't require the clutch quadrant for mounting? Can anyone confirm this?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176702&d=1670939453

My second question is regarding the pedal positioning. I noticed that my brake pedal arm is currently hitting the 3/4" frame tube. I've seen on the forum that it shouldn't be this way because it means the MC piston is travel limited and not returning to the full resting position. Do I just need to adjust the threaded rod until the pedal arm clears the frame? What gap is appropriate here? I didn't see anything in the FFR instructions talking about this.

Finally - after reading more on the forum, and seeing the brake pedal arm issue, I'm wondering if the clutch pedal needs to be adjusted at all. How do you determine if the travel in the clutch MC is too much or too little which could impact the internal seals? I've seen people have added hard stops for the clutch pedal (to limit travel when depressed). Is this documented anywhere on how to check/adjust this? I have a Forte hydraulic clutch but haven't hooked it up yet. I think Forte adjusted the slave pushrod when he shipped the drivetrain (Gen2 + T56 + hydraulic clutch) but I'll check that to see what the travel is on the actual clutch fork - but can't do that until I hook up the hydraulic lines and bleed the system. Any guidance on how to make sure the pedal travel is appropriate for the clutch MC would be appreciated!

edwardb

12-13-2022, 10:57 AM

1. Yes, you want the Coyote control pack switch on the clutch pedal. It's at the bottom of the pedal motion as you described, so an actual safety device. At the top doesn't mean much. Plus the Coyote provided switch plugs into the control pack harness directly. Not a big deal, but worth something. Yes, those are the brackets from FFR. My earlier kit had them, but only for the cable version. 99% certain they now offer them when using a hydraulic setup. Best to contact them. A little off topic, but some wire this function into the neutral switch on the trans. Some even do both. Just do something.

2. Yes, you need the brake pedal to stop firmly short of that 3/4" tube for exactly the reason you mention. Yes, adjust the pushrod into the Wilwood clevis to move it. I don't think the actual clearance is critical. Just that it doesn't stop there.

3. For the clutch, I'm a fan of having the clutch at the same height as the brake pedal. Not everyone does it that way. But that's my preference. Once the brake pedal is adjusted, I adjust the clutch pedal to be the same height. Also check the accelerator to see if I have a decent "heel and toe" setup. Not that I'm a race driver. Just find this to be the most comfortable. You will be able to check to see if this provides the proper amount of travel for your clutch once you have it installed and bled. Just take it slow to not overdrive the slave and pop it out of the bore. (Not that I would know anything about that...). My experience is if the clutch MC is sized properly, you won't exceed the slave travel and the clutch will be fully disengaged. You can decide at that point if a stop is required. Likely it will and many recommend them out of caution. But just remember, if you're stopping the clutch pedal way short of the floor, you're trading travel for effort. Best to get the MC sized properly. Your left leg will thank you.

dbo_texas

12-13-2022, 02:49 PM

dbo_texas

12-14-2022, 05:01 PM

While messing around with the brake and clutch safety switch mounts and just getting more familiar w/ the Wilwood pedal box in general (I didn't assemble it originally so new to me), I discovered the brake pedal arm hits the 3/4" frame tube. I guess this is a known issue, but I was unaware. Anyhow from what I've gathered this is not good because it prevents the pedal from moving all the way to the resting position, which means the hydroboost piston in my case may not be moving all the way back to its resting position. So, all that investigating and effort to reduce the hydroboost pushrod length may have been for nothing :) I'll need to fix this pedal arm interference, THEN remeasure the hydroboost to MC pushrod distances again.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176763&d=1671051588

Now to my questions:

For those w/ hydroboost setups, what is the best way to adjust the brake pedal position? On my hydroboost there are no flats on the threaded rod to be able to turn it in the clevis. I tried with some pliers but it didn't seem to want to turn (access is limited when its all installed). Maybe I just didn't grip it tight enough. I thought about removing the pivot pin from the clevis, which would allow me to rotate the clevis in 180° increments. Looking for some advice on how to adjust this.
I notice this hydroboost threaded rod doesn't have a backer nut like the one on the Wilwood MCs (like the clutch MC). I'm worried this would allow this distance to change over time due to use/vibration if that rod does in fact turn. Should I be concerned about this?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176764&d=1671051588

460.465USMC

12-15-2022, 04:39 PM

As for the clutch MC, I have a 0.75 size provided by Forte so I'll see how that feels with his clutch setup. I've seen others using that same size with good results.

Hi Darryl,

Thought I'd pass along a tip given to me from Fman in case it also applies to your build. He was sent the wrong size. For the hydraulic clutch setup from Forte, the Wilwood MC should be 13/16" (0.81 inches). Thanks to his tip, I was able to confirm early on Forte sent me 0.81. This is true for the TKO600; I know you have the T-56, so maybe this won't apply. But, definitely worth confirming with Forte sooner rather than later.

dbo_texas

12-16-2022, 03:14 PM

dbo_texas

12-16-2022, 06:36 PM

Hi Darryl,

Thought I'd pass along a tip given to me from Fman in case it also applies to your build. He was sent the wrong size. For the hydraulic clutch setup from Forte, the Wilwood MC should be 13/16" (0.81 inches). Thanks to his tip, I was able to confirm early on Forte sent me 0.81. This is true for the TKO600; I know you have the T-56, so maybe this won't apply. But, definitely worth confirming with Forte sooner rather than later.

Thanks for the tip! I checked my MC on the clutch and it was 3/4" --> looks like the original builder used one of the FFR supplied MCs that came w/ the kit. I asked Mike Forte which size should be used w/ my Gen2 Coyote + T56 and he confirmed I should be using the 13/16 size and definitely NOT the 3/4 size. So I dug through some boxes because I remembered coming across 2 extra MCs about a year ago, and sure enough one of them was the 13/16 Wilwood MC so I'm guessing that is the one that came w/ the hydroboost from Forte. My only thought is that the original builder didn't realize it was a different size than the one FFR provides in the kit. I'll be swapping that out for sure to use the 13/16 size. So thanks again for the tip - you likely saved me a lot of troubleshooting down the road when I bleed the system and test it out.

dbo_texas

12-19-2022, 12:05 PM

After a lot of research I found that with my setup, the brake pedal arm was hitting the frame which prevented the hydroboost pushrod from returning to its resting position. In post #94 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=509214&viewfull=1#post509214) I discussed shortening the hydroboost pushrod because it was interfering with the master cylinder pushrod in the resting position. Well it turns out this interference was due to the pedal arm issue. To resolve this, I had to get rid of the pedal arm interference and then re-adjust the hydroboost pushrod length (grow length back to original length). Good thing I saved the lock nut!

Adjusting the pedal arm position turned out to be way more painful that I thought. I initially tried turning the threaded rod into the clevis on the pedal arm, but found that the rod bottomed out on the brake arm (i.e. it was too long). With it bottomed out, the pedal arm was still hitting the frame tube. My only option at this point was to completely remove the hydroboost so that I could cut the threaded stud shorter by about 1/4". Easier said than done. One of the bolts for the hydroboost is almost impossible to get to as it us buried by the Wilwood pedal box, including the Coyote pedal module. After about an hour of micro turns (that's all the wrench had clearance for) I finally got the nut off and was able to remove the hydroboost.

I then marked and cut off about 1/4" inch off the bolt. This looks like Forte welds a 3/8-16 bolt to the stock GM hydroboost pushrod. I also added a jam nut to the rod since it didn't have one from the previous builder - after talking to Forte he said it would be a good idea to add the jam nut to lock everything in place. I didn't have a thin nut so I used an angle grinder with the sanding wheel and made my own out of a standard 3/8 nut.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176952&d=1671469102

After this was done, I re-installed the hydroboost and adjusted the thread depth into the clevis until it pulled the brake pedal arm off the frame tube by about 1/8". I made sure the hydroboost piston was at full travel to resting position, then re-measured the interface between hydroboost pushrod and the master cylinder pushrod. I had to increase the length of the hydroboost pushrod back to its original length from before I had made the previous adjustment.

Once the bolts were re-installed (again, that one bolt was a PITA), everything was good to go.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176949&d=1671469102

Here's a picture of the clearance to the brake pedal arm:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176951&d=1671469102

The last step was to adjust the brake switch position so that it fires almost as soon as the pedal arm starts to travel:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176950&d=1671469102

dbo_texas

12-19-2022, 12:19 PM

As previously mentioned, my build had a 3/4" MC installed on the clutch. Per Forte, and as others have mentioned, with his setup the proper MC is 13/16 for Forte's hydraulic clutch setup. Luckily the previous builder had the 13/16 MC in a box still, so I went ahead and swapped that out - easy. I did have to cut the 5/8" off the threaded rod but that was simple and quick. I then adjusted the clutch pedal position to be even with the brake pedal (just thread the MC pushrod into the clevis until the pedal position is where you want). This leaves about 8.5" from the face of the pedal to the firewall (just for reference). After bleeding and testing the clutch actuation, I may need to add a pedal stop to the firewall (TBD) - I'll be looking to make sure the piston in the slave cylinder isn't extending beyond it's range. Some have had it travel too far and the piston actually pops out of the slave cylinder. So if this happens I'll add a pedal stop to limit clutch pedal travel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176955&d=1671469115

Next up, I needed to mount the clutch safety switch provided by Ford with the Coyote Controls Pack. This switch gets mounted using some brackets provided by FFR with the Coyote Install Kit. My kit was from 2019, so this was before FFR started providing brackets specifically for those with hydraulic clutch setups. But others on the forum had made it work using the provided bracket which was intended to mount to the clutch quadrant. All I had to do with drill one extra hole in the bracket and tap a 1/4-20 thread into the clutch clevis. I could then use the existing pivot on the clevis to prevent the bracket from rotating, and drive in a screw to secure it. I used a washer on the backside to match the offset of the brass washer and lock ring on the pivot. This worked like a charm. Here are some pictures - you can see I marked where the switch closes the circuit and where the end of travel is. I set the position of the switch (adjustable with the FFR bracket slots) so that the circuit closes close to the end of clutch pedal arm travel. This should guarantee the clutch is fully disengaged before triggering the switch. One thing I will check once I bleed the system and verify slave cylinder piston travel and clutch actuation, is whether or not I need to move the switch a little bit based on final pedal arm travel. If I have to use a clutch pedal stop, then I might need to shift the switch forward but that's easy since it is slotted and I would be moving it forward so it triggers sooner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176954&d=1671469115

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176953&d=1671469115

Here's a video showing the switch actuation and testing:

https://youtu.be/ApIA6aJrVTw

Finally, I hooked up the flex line so I could mock up where to route it to the transmission. I think I'll do as some others have done and drill a new hole in the DS inside footbox panel and use a grommet to pass the flex line out. Very similar to how I have it shown in these photos, just a little cleaner than trying to squeeze it between the gaps in the panels which doesn't really work.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176956&d=1671469115

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176957&d=1671469115

dbo_texas

12-26-2022, 06:51 PM

Today with a little bit of time off from work I decided to start tackling the cooling system. I wanted to mock up the radiator mounting. I used the Breeze fan shroud as well as upper and lower radiator mounts (which Santa conveniently delivered just yesterday!). Here are the Breeze part numbers used:

70551 - Lower Radiator Support Kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/lower-radiator-support-kit/)
70558 - Heavy Duty Hinged Radiator / Shround Mount Kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/heavy-duty-hinged-radiator-shroud-mounting-kit/)
70772 - Radiator Fan Shroud (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-fan-shroud/)

As usual, the Breeze instructions are straight forward. I started with the fan shroud. This has holes to mount the stock FFR radiator fan - just attach with 4 provided screws and nylock nuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177219&d=1672097273

Next up, I went ahead and mounted the upper mount hinged bracket to the radiator upper front flange. I did this before mounting the shroud to the radiator because some of the hardware has to go through the upper hinged bracket and needs to be drilled out. So I marked my rivet holes, and drilled them through the radiator flange and hinge bracket flange, making sure the actual hinge pivot faces rearward. Using cleco's to tack it together for now, because ultimately I will disassemble and paint the radiator and brackets black. There is a special paint made specifically for painting the radiator, if that is the look you are going for. Here you can see the upper hinge bracket with rivet holes drilled.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177216&d=1672097257

I then mounted the shroud to the FFR radiator (AFCO). The fan shroud has 2 holes on the top that you mark on the back of the radiator flange, then drill through both radiator flanges and the upper hinge mount, then insert a spacer (between the flanges). Once the top was held in place with the bolts, I marked and drilled the two lower holes and secured with the provided screws, washers, and nuts. I Here's a good view showing what it looks like after complete:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177215&d=1672097257

Next up I went ahead and mounted the lower radiator mount to the frame. For this I just followed the instructions - nothing much to it really. The kit comes with a square tube, a couple of pieces of hose to slide over the tube, and some mounting brackets and hardware. I centered the radiator, marked and notched the tube to clear the weld beads on the bottom of the radiator, and them temp mounted it all to the frame. I used a floor jack to hold the weight of the radiator, then adjusted until I got the 51° angle required (noted in the instructions). I then marked where the brackets were on the frame, removed it all and drilled the holes in the frame for the lower mount brackets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177224&d=1672097291

Here's what the lower mount bracket looks like installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177227&d=1672097291

And a close-up of how it mounts to the frame:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177225&d=1672097291

I temp mounted everything and realized why the Breeze instructions say to cut away the stock FFR radiator mounts (these are the two small sections of 3/4" tube welded below the 3/4" cross tube). The upper hinge pivot hits the stock FFR mount. By cutting it away, you create clearance for the hinge which lets the flange sit flush with the cross tube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177218&d=1672097273

So what is left for me to to? I need to remove all the parts/brackets and spray paint everything black. I'll cut the stock FFR radiator mounts off the frame and then touch up everything with paint. For the radiator I'll use the special radiator paint, and for all the Breeze brackets and frame touch-ups I'll use Rustoleum Matte Custom Shop Black - P/N 263422 - which does a decent job of matching the FFR powder coat used on the frame. Once painted, I can re-mount everything, rivet the upper hinge, and bolt everything down.

dbo_texas

01-02-2023, 06:13 PM

Over the Christmas break I went ahead and spray painted all the radiator mount brackets, as well as the hood hinge brackets and trunk hinges as well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177596&d=1672700945

Next up I went ahead and cut off the stock FFR radiator mounts, on the recommendation of several folks (this is recommended in the Breeze upper radiator mount instructions as well). I used an angle grinder w/ cutoff wheel, as well as a Dremel with cutoff wheel, then cleaned up the cuts with the sanding wheels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177607&d=1672701961

After cleaning them up, I hit them with some of the Rustoleum Matte Custom Shop Black (P/N 263422) which matches the FFR frame powdercoat decently enough:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177608&d=1672701961

After letting them cure for a few days, I re-mounted the radiator and drilled the 4 holes in the upper hinge for the the 1/4-20 bolts to secure it to the 3/4 frame tube. I have the radiator set to 51° per the Breeze instructions. I might still paint the radiator black once I finalize my overall color scheme. It's easy enough to remove/disassemble when the time comes. For now, I won't rivet the hinge bracket to the radiator just yet until I make that paint color decision.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177597&d=1672700945

Side view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177598&d=1672700945

Rear view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177599&d=1672700945

dbo_texas

01-02-2023, 06:24 PM

Having finalized the radiator mounting, next up on my list is the coolant expansion tank. I bought the Mishimoto MMRT-MUS-15EBK tank which is very similar to the Moroso tank many Coyote installers use. I went with the Mishimoto tank because #1 it is black, and #2 it has a little fill-level indicator tube on the side which I like. However, in order to place the expansion tank, I needed to go ahead and mount the hood hinge brackets since this will dictate how close to the side of the engine bay I can position the tank.

I had a couple of helpers to assemble the hinges. Everything is pretty straight forward following the FFR instructions, and we didn't have any issues with assembly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177601&d=1672700973

Here's one of the hinges assembled and ready to mount:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177602&d=1672700973

And installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177603&d=1672700973

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177605&d=1672700986

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177606&d=1672700986

Question #1: Is the gas strut supposed to be this long? I haven't mounted to bracket with the ball-stud to the hood yet, but in the uncompressed state the strut is hitting my triple reservoir. I had marked the frame with blue tape where I thought the strut length would stop, based on reading other build threads. Just wondering if this is a non-issue once the strut gets compressed and mounted to the hood bracket?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177604&d=1672700973

Question #2: For the expansion tank, should I plan on mounting it as close to the hood hinge on the PS as possible? I'm thinking I'll need room for the air intake elbow. Also, are there any recommendations on how high the tank should be sitting? I couldn't find any mentions of vertical position of the expansion tank so that the cap clears the hood. Any recommendations?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177600&d=1672700973

edwardb

01-02-2023, 11:54 PM

1. The only time the strut is that length is when it's uncompressed while the hood is open. With the hood closed it's compressed and you'll be fine. You just have to make sure the location of the ball stud on the hood doesn't bottom out the strut when closed.

2. I don't have a Roadster here to give you an exact measurement. But this thread has some discussion and a lot of pictures. If you were using the same Moroso tank a lot of us use, there's specific information. But perhaps there's enough to go on. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30519-Coolant-expansion-tank. The hood is arched more than you might think. So there's plenty of clearance if placed properly.

dbo_texas

01-09-2023, 12:08 AM

This weekend I finished mounting the Mishimoto MMRT-MUS-15EBK expansion tank. This one is similar to the Moroso tank many folks use, just with the included sight tube to see fluid level. I opted for the matte black version (they also make a bare aluminum finish). To mount this, I needed to make 3 brackets - two for the mounting flange, and one to support the bottom of the tank. Took a little longer than I anticipated, but I'm pretty happy with the end result.

Here's a pic of the upper brackets. All are made with 0.100" aluminum stock and 1/4-20 rivet nuts. With the Breeze upper radiator hinge mount in place, I was able to wedge this bracket between the hinge and the 3/4 tube and bend it so that the mounting flange is flat/level. It is positioned on the 3/4 frame tube so that the expansion tank flange is even with the bottom of the 3/4 frame tube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177862&d=1673240272

Upper brackets get riveted to the underside of the 3/4 frame tube. I had to remove the radiator to get access to drill the rivet holes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177863&d=1673240272

Looks like this with the tank mounted:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177866&d=1673240272

I needed to reinstall the radiator in order to figure out how to fab the lower bracket. Due to the position of the tab on the tank, it actually extends slightly past the Breeze fan shroud. After positioning and mocking up the bracket out of cardboard, I fabricated the lower bracket, marked the position on the shroud, and riveted it in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177864&d=1673240272

Here's how the tab on the bottom of the tank mates with the lower bracket. After bolting in place, the overall assembly is rock solid and doesn't move at all. I'm pretty happy with the result.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177867&d=1673240285

Here's the final product, showing reference dimension from center of the hinge mount on the frame:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177865&d=1673240272

Side view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177868&d=1673240285

edwardb

01-09-2023, 06:17 AM

That tank looks to be taller than the Moroso tanks many of us have used. Hard to tell from the angle of your picture. But seems that location might interfere with the hood. I can't give you a specific measurement because my Roadster build isn't around here any more. But these threads have a lot of pictures. Maybe mock up your hood as I show from my build thread. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=220495&viewfull=1#post220495. Another thread where the Moroso tank is discussed and has pictures. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30519-Coolant-expansion-tank.

dbo_texas

01-09-2023, 10:06 AM

Thanks for the feedback - I perhaps incorrectly assumed the Mishimoto tank was the same as the Moroso from mounting flange to top of tank. I'm checking with Lidodrip to get more details on his positioning since he has the same Mishimoto tank as me. Looks like he got some similar feedback and repositioned his tank (although it looks fairly close to where mine is and he said it clears). Here's his THREAD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42278-Coyote-Expansion-Tank-Mishimoto) for reference. I'll report back once I have it figured out.

In your hood placement mockup, looks like you have a couple of small wood blocks the hood is sitting on (based on measurements from your already built MK4). Do you happen to remember the thickness of those blocks? They look to be about 3/4" thick. I'm thinking it might be good for me to do a similar mockup and also mount the air intake elbow as I'm a little worried about that as well.

edwardb

01-09-2023, 04:19 PM

Lidodrip

01-09-2023, 11:05 PM

Thanks for the feedback - I perhaps incorrectly assumed the Mishimoto tank was the same as the Moroso from mounting flange to top of tank. I'm checking with Lidodrip to get more details on his positioning since he has the same Mishimoto tank as me. Looks like he got some similar feedback and repositioned his tank (although it looks fairly close to where mine is and he said it clears). Here's his THREAD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42278-Coyote-Expansion-Tank-Mishimoto) for reference. I'll report back once I have it figured out.

Hello Darryl, I have updated the thread you referenced regarding the Mishimoto tank. Hopefully this helps, I have at least 1" of clearance between the hood and tank cap.

James

dbo_texas

01-10-2023, 04:17 PM

Hello Darryl, I have updated the thread you referenced regarding the Mishimoto tank. Hopefully this helps, I have at least 1" of clearance between the hood and tank cap.

James

Thanks a lot ->> I'll take a look this week and confirm my positioning. This is a huge help!

dbo_texas

01-23-2023, 06:36 PM

Following up on Post #114 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=513624&viewfull=1#post513624), I sat the hood on some 3/4" blocks to check hood clearance to the Mishimoto expansion tank cap - looks like I have about 1/2" - 3/4" clearance. I did shift the hood forward/rearwards slightly because I'm not sure 100% where it sits relative to the frame, but the clearance seems to be adequate +/- 1" in either direction which is all the hood hinge slots would allow for so I think I'm good to go.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178533&d=1674516269

Also, I found out that the overflow nipple which comes out of the neck where the cap screws on is a 1/16-27 NPT thread, not the 1/8 NPT I thought originally (see HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42278-Coyote-Expansion-Tank-Mishimoto&p=514505&viewfull=1#post514505)). Mishimoto tech support confirmed the thread size for me via email. As this port isn't needed, I still needed to plug it. So, I bought the correct size 1/16-27 NPT plug, but unfortunately couldn't get them to thread into the hole. I had one hell of a time getting the nipple to unthread also...so something strange was going on with the threads. Anyhow, this was easily resolved by buying a 1/16 NPT Tap (about $5 on Amazon w/ next day delivery). I ran the tap through the hole, and threaded it a little deeper than the original threads which opens up the diameter of the tapered threads just a bit. I think this was the issue - the original ID of the taper was too small to get my plugs started. After re-running the threads a little deeper, the plug threaded in perfectly. I added some thread sealer grease too.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178527&d=1674516100

dbo_texas

01-23-2023, 06:49 PM

This is one of those things that should have been like a 20 minute install but took me about 2 hrs. I ran into 2 issues. First up, I wanted to replace the flow restrictor valve with the smallest size available. The KRC Coyote unit ships with a -6 size, but many on this forum swapped that with the -4 restrictor valve (p/n 2530400). The smaller the size, the less assist you get. My first issue was that I couldn't get the threads to break loose! I didn't have a 1" deep socket, or any combo wrenches large enough, so my only option was to use a large adjustable wrench. I put it in the vice, cranked on it, and still couldn't get it to break free. Finally, I took out my hammer, whacked it good, and it finally broke free. Seem to me hitting stuff hard with a hammer solves a lot of the assembly issues I've had on this build!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178529&d=1674516100

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178528&d=1674516100

Next up, I followed the FFR installation instructions for the actual install. First up was installing the bracket with the spacers:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178537&d=1674517598

I found that my kit didn't come with the new screws to mount the dual pulley to the water pump. No big deal - I just used the original 3 screws used to hold the original serpentine belt pulley on. All good...until I stripped out the screw using the impact wrench. So...off to Home Depot to buy a new M8 flange head bolt. 2 beers and 45 minutes later I was back in business. Got the new KRC dual pulley installed (I had to use the bushing that came with the pulley):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178530&d=1674516100

Then installed the serpentine belt & then the small belt for the KRC PS Pump:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178531&d=1674516100

Lastly, pushed the pump over to the left as far as it could go and tightended the bolts.
Here's the final result:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178532&d=1674516124

dbo_texas

03-06-2023, 11:50 AM

This weekend I spent some time on some easy stuff --> drilling and mounting the access panels. Some will be riveted, some will be mounted using screws (for easy removal/access).

First up was the panel on the front of the driver footbox. This will get siliconed+riveted during final panel assembly:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181164&d=1678120980

Next up was the access panel in the Russ Thompson drop trunk box. This will be screwed on for access so I used 10-24 rivet nuts + screws to mount. I will replace the panhead screws with some black low-profile head screws later.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181170&d=1678121008

Next up was the fuel pump / filter access panel on the rear trunk aluminum. Also wanted access, so these are mounted with 10-24 rivet nuts + screws.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181168&d=1678120980
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181169&d=1678121008

Then I did the upper footbox access panel. I ran into an issue with the rivet nut installation tool --> I applied too much force on the handles and ended up snapping off the mandrel. It took a surprisingly small amount of force on the handle to break it. Luckily, Amazon sells replacement mandrels for about $7 so after 1 day I was back in business and finished it up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181165&d=1678120980
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181166&d=1678120980
Again...these panhead screws will be replaced with some low-profile black screws so it looks nice and they won't stand out so much:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181167&d=1678120980

These panels are all easy to mount. Next up: heater+defroster & wiper motor install

dbo_texas

03-06-2023, 12:11 PM

I had been debating installing an A/C system, but ultimately opted for just the heater. It requires less install and less plumbing than the A/C, and without a top I don't think the A/C will do much good. Anyhow, I bought the FFR heater/defroster from someone on the forum, and started mounting it this weekend. Here are a few things I learned:

I knew that installing the heater would be an issue for the carbon fiber dash with glovebox. There are 2 ways to address this.
Option 1 - reduce the depth of the glovebox significantly so it clears the heater plenum. For this option, you only get about 1" of usable glove box depth. This is enough for insurance and registration cards, maybe a pair of sun glasses, but that's about it.
Option 2 - build a box to push the heater assembly further into the engine bay. This option requires a fair amount of fabrication to make the push-out box and you would have to cut a much larger hole in the firewall to allow the entire assembly (including custom box) to punch through. Not super difficult, but a fair amount of extra work.

I elected to go with option 1 and shorten the actual glove box behind the dash. I don't see a need for a ton of glove box storage given that I have the RT drop trunk and Breeze cockpit cubby for storage. Making the glove box shorter seems pretty straight forward and I plan to do this at a later date. Based on where the heater plenums are, you pretty much have to shorted the glove box tub to only be about 1" --> basically get rid of the separate plastic tub that comes with the FFR carbon fiber dash, and just leave the ~ 1" carbon fiber lip and then add a rear panel to close it off. I will need to figure out how best to mount that panel to the back of the lip and make it look nice from the inside.

I also learned that the template provided in the install instructions are not even close to exact. Good thing I checked this before I started cutting holes in the firewall. I made a new template using the actual heater unit, and then cut the holes in the firewall for the screws, water lines, and airflow path. I didn't end up final-mounting this yet because my engine will need to come up so I can button up the engine bay panels. So for now it is just sitting there, but when I'm ready I will RTV seal the inside unit to the inner firewall face (per the instructions), and screw the blower unit onto the engine bay side.

Firewall cuts
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181171&d=1678121683
Another thing I learned --> the firewall support bracket (attached to the angled 3/4" frame tube) will be in the way of the heater hose, so I'll either need to add and access hole or remove the bracket completely.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181172&d=1678121683
This shows a top view - you can see how close the heater body is to the carbon fiber return lip on the glove box opening. There is about 1.25-1.5" from the front face of the dash to the heater plenum body.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181173&d=1678121683
And this is what it looks like from the cockpit side --> you can see how the heater body comes right up behind the dash.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181174&d=1678121683

dbo_texas

03-09-2023, 11:51 AM

I'm too excited about this not to share. For a long time I wanted high back seats (for safety reasons). There are quite a few options people have fit into the Roadster, but by far my favorite is these Intatrim Stoneleigh seats. They are narrower at the top than most, so fit well around the body. This seat to my knowledge has only been used in a few FFR roadsters, but they look killer. My inspiration came from forum member Hacksaw84 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=2157) who has an amazing interior which has been features in many videos and magazine articles like this (https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/10/16/what-does-it-take-to-build-a-kit-car-we-asked-the-guy-who-put-together-this-stunning-factory-five-mk4-roadster/) one. I also knew I wanted to go with saddle leather, regardless of my paint scheme. I'm going to attempt to mount these with the Breeze seat mounts which I already bought....if it doesn't work out I may need to fab something custom (like Hacksaw84 did HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?43291-High-Back-Seat&p=497306&viewfull=1#post497306)). I plan to pair these with silver/gray colored harness to match the silver stitching.

Since this pic was taken they've added the shoulder grommets (per the concept art). I worked with their designer on the stitching, thread colors, and then selected the saddle leather from one of their raw leather suppliers. I'm pretty stoked. Both DS & PS seats have heater pads wired in as well. I'm getting an extra half-hide of matching leather shipped to me with the seats so I can have matching door cards, shifter boot, ebrake boot, and maybe a few other accents. I'm still a little ways off from starting the interior but this is pretty cool I had to share.

Concept art vs. "almost finished" seat - still missing the shoulder grommets which have been added but I don't have a picture yet:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181329&d=1678379583

Close-up of the stitching colors and saddle leather:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181330&d=1678379583

And close-up of the Cobra logo stitching:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181328&d=1678379583

dbo_texas

03-30-2023, 09:18 AM

Today I received the custom Stoneleigh Intatrim seats. I'm super pleased with how they turned out. I also got an extra piece of matching hide to cover some of the accent pieces like door cards, shifter boot, e-brake boot, and possibly trans tunnel although I'm still debating coving that with leather or trying to match the carbon fiber on the dash (satin finish). Anyhow, here are the finished seats - they even flipped the Cobra logo!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182255&d=1680185338
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182256&d=1680185338
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182257&d=1680185338
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182258&d=1680185338

I also decided to bump the heater out into the engine bay by a few inches, as others have done, so that I can at least keep a few inches of the glove box. I modeled this up and it's getting fabbed at Send-Cut-Send (online shop that can laser cut and bend pieces). I could make this myself but the price was fairly cheap to get it made so I went ahead and farmed it out. I'll post some updates once I've integrated the heater and mounted this to the firewall. This will install from the glovebox side so that the flanges are mounted to the inside of the firewall (not visible from engine bay). I think the final placement of the heater will have one of the ports coming out right about where the dash support tube is, so I will likely need to make a 3D printed joggle adapter to reroute around the tube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182259&d=1680185795

Sarcasticshrub

03-30-2023, 10:51 PM

Those seats. Wow. Just wow. They look fantastic!

dbo_texas

04-05-2023, 03:46 PM

Not much to update - haven't had a free weekend to work on the car the last few weeks. I did receive the prototype heater box today. I ordered this from an online vendor - you send the flat pattern and they'll laser cut and bend it up. Its fairly simple and could have very easily made this on my own but I just don't have time at the moment so I hit the "easy button". Prices was less than $50 shipped so it was a no brainer for me. It turned out great and I'm hoping to cut the opening in the firewall and mount the heater this weekend. I'll post some updates when its done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182546&d=1680727499

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182547&d=1680727499

This isn't the final position --> it will punch through the firewall and hang into the engine bay by about 2". With this I should be able to keep at least 2.5"-3" of glovebox depth, vs. the 1" I would have without this bump-out. I'll need to make sure the windshield wiper motor clears it too.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182548&d=1680727499

dbo_texas

04-18-2023, 10:53 AM

For those wondering, here are the steps I followed to mount the heater with the bump-out box. This entire effort was actually a lot more involved than I originally thought, and took a fair amount of time to complete.

STEP 1 - lay out the provided template and cut the two 1.25" holes. Warning: Do NOT drill the screw mounting holes or the rectangular cutout --> these vary on each unit so if you cut the holes with the template they will NOT align with your heater.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182763&d=1681147889

STEP 2 - mount the paper template to the side of the heater that goes behind the dash (i.e. the plenum side, not the side with the blower), and then cut the rectangular hole and punch holes in the paper for all the screw holes. After punching holes in the paper template to match the actual heater, transfer it back to the bump-out box and you can go ahead and drill the holes and cut the square cutout in the metal
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182765&d=1681147889

STEP 3 - Do a fit check to make sure the heater can be mounted. I actually had a flaw in my bump-out box design - I didn't account for the severe angle that the heater plenum is at vs. the panel mount face. So it didn't fit into my box. I had to unbend the upper flange to about 75° (vs. 90°). Luckily I had enough material that I could still get some rivets into the flange after this, so no big deal. You can see this at the top of the image on the right:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182764&d=1681147889

STEP 4 - I made a cardboard template of the bump-out box cutout needed so I could tape it to the firewall. I traced the opening and made the cut in the firewall, then mounted the box.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182766&d=1681147889

STEP 5 - After the cut, I test fit the box into the firewall and drilled my mounting holes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182767&d=1681147889

STEP 6 - Time to mount the heater to the bump-out box. I'm choosing to screw the bump-out box to the firewall vs. riveting, so that I can easily remove it in the future if needed. I will also temp mount this, as I will probably remove it when I pull the engine out to finish riveting all the engine bay panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182768&d=1681147906

At this point, I needed to evaluate the glove box fit. When I designed the bump-out box, I made it about 2" deep, knowing it wouldn't quite be enough to fully clear the glove box. I just didn't want to run into the engine so I left about 15mm shorter than I think I needed. At this point I re-mounted the glove box and found that the dash sits about 12mm off the 3/4" frame tube. This is the minimum amount I'd need to shorten the glove box to clear the heater box. See next post for how I addressed the glove box interference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183123&d=1681830215

dbo_texas

04-18-2023, 11:05 AM

With the heater installed, now it was time to address the glove box. I needed to shorten it by 12mm bare minimum - that would but the back of the glove box touching the heater plenum body. I elected to shorted the glovebox by 20mm so that I had some extra clearance. To do this, here are the steps I took.

STEP 1 - mark the glovebox, and used a jigsaw to cut 20mm off the rear. To get the blade started, I just cut a small slit using a Dremel cut-off wheel. The jigsaw cuts the plastic like butter. This leaves a 20mm deep flange on the back cap piece that gets removed. My plan was to re-use this back piece and mount it inside the glovebox (STEP 2)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183124&d=1681830215

STEP 2 - using a blow torch, I heated up the flanges on the rear piece that I had just removed, and press-fit it through the front opening of the glove box until it was flat and flush with the rear cut edge. By heating up the plastic, it basically allows it to deform to the sides of the glovebox and create a nice tight fit. I secured the rear piece to the sides by drilling holes all around and then riveting them together. This provides a pretty clean look from the inside of the glovebox. You could paint the rivet heads black if desired, but I left them bare aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183125&d=1681830215

STEP 3 - remount the glovebox and mount the dash. This is the end result. Overall I have about a 1/4" gap between the glove box and heater body:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183126&d=1681830215

The remaining depth of the glove box is about 3" --> this is plenty for storing insurance cards, small tools, charging cables, etc. I'm pretty happy with the end result - looks clean and is also still functional.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183127&d=1681830215

Its Bruce

05-07-2023, 05:50 PM

Have you mounted the seats to the Breeze mounts yet?

dbo_texas

05-07-2023, 08:53 PM

Have you mounted the seats to the Breeze mounts yet?

No I haven't done a fit check yet with the Breeze mounts.

dbo_texas

05-10-2023, 11:25 AM

With the heater bump-out box installed, next up I tackled the wiper motor installation. This was pretty straight forward, I just had to do it after the heater box because I needed to know how much to angle is so that the drive cable would clear the box. I did purchase some 5/16 nicopp tubing that I will use to route the cable (replacing the 5/16 stainless tubing that came with the wiper kit). Per several builders, the nicopp is much easier to bend vs. the stainless, and performs the same function just as well as the stainless.

Starting out, I put some tape on the firewall so I wouldn't scratch it up. Then positioned the wiper motor and angled it so the drive cable just clears the heater box. I'll need to put about a 15°-20° bend in the nicopp shroud in this area. It's been done before and I checked with a few others that have done similar, and they say this doesn't cause any issues with wiper function. I marked my holes and drilled clearance holes for 5/16-18 bolts to go through. Just based on my positioning of the motor, the lower hole actually goes through the center of the 3/4" frame tube. I originally planned to just tap the threads in the 3/4" tube, but instead opted to drill all the way through. I had to get a new bolt which was 1/2" longer than the ones that came with the wiper kit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184338&d=1683735419

Here's the installed motor. The bolts are secured on the backside using large washers and nyloc nuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184340&d=1683735419

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184339&d=1683735419

I need to pull the heater and wiper motor off soon so I can drill the holes for the Coyote and RF harnesses into the firewall. When I remove those I'll pull off the tape before re-installing them.

dbo_texas

05-10-2023, 11:30 AM

This was a simple one. Not much to it really --> I installed it per the location in the FFR instructions, essentially aligning the lower rear ECU mounting hole with the front of the PS footbox. I've seen some people say it is difficult to install the Coyote harness connectors because the 3/4" vertical frame tube just in front of the ECU gets in the way. If that happens, I can easily remove the ECU, plug in the cables, then re-mount. Or I can add some small spacers to raise the ECU off the bracket a but and maybe gain some clearance. We'll see when I get to that point.

Bracket held on with clecos for now --> I'll rivet it once I check that harness plug after I run electrical. To mount the ECU, I used bolts + nyloc nuts on the backside. I considered using rivet nuts on the mounting bracket instead of the loose nyloc nuts, but in the end I stuck with the loose nuts. I may change my mind later --> if anyone has a good argument for using rivnuts instead, let me hear it!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184336&d=1683735419

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184337&d=1683735419

dbo_texas

06-14-2023, 03:48 PM

Not much to update - I disassembled all the items in the engine bay that I think would interfere with removing the engine/trans. I borrowed a 2 ton lift from a neighbor, just haven't had a free weekend to actually pull the engine out yet. I think the front brake lines may also be in the way, so I'll probably disconnect those and just push them out of the way. Other items removed: triple reservoir, heater, firewall, hood hinges, disconnected steering shaft, radiator, coolant expansion tank
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185824&d=1686775443

Also, I finally put some clearcoat on the color samples. They look pretty good but unfortunately there are several that I really like so I still have no idea what color scheme I'm going to go with. Was hoping that after adding the clear coat there would be a front runner, but all I did was successfully add even more options that I like.
Before clearcoat:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186359&d=1687794829
After clearcoat:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185829&d=1686777965
1. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = white
2. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2019 Honda Civic: Tonic Yellow Pearl Y78P
3. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Jeep Wrangler: Chief Blue PQB + Porsche Chalk
4. Base = 2022 Honda Civic: Sonic Gray Pearl NH877P / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Jeep Wrangler: Chief Blue PQB
5. Base = 2022 Kia Telluride: Everlasting Gray Metallic ERG / Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Jeep Wrangler: Chief PQB + 2011 Acura Mdx: Palladium Metallic NH743M
6. Base = 2017 Porsche 911: Graphitblau Metallic A7/ Stripes = 2022 Porsche Taycan: Black 041 / Pins = 2017 Porsche 911: Miamiblau J5 + Porsche Chalk
7. Base = 2023 Ford Bronco Sport: Area 51 5FG5 / Stripes = 2022 Kia Telluride: Wolf Gray Metallic C7S
8. Base = 2015 Honda Cr-V: Mountain Air Metallic BG62M / Stripes = 2011 Acura Mdx: Palladium Metallic NH743M

dbo_texas

06-26-2023, 10:46 AM

Arrived back from my vacation to Mexico to find my Herb's carbon fiber door cards had arrived. When I ordered my Intatrim Stoneleigh seats, I ordered an extra half-hide of raw leather knowing I wanted to match some of the other interior accents, including the door cards. I shipped Herb some leather pieces (he told me the sizes he needed), and he built these for me, including the carbon fiber insert to match the dash. He even added the elastic to the pocket which I wasn't sure he'd be able to do with the saddle leather. They turned out great.

Here is an image of the 1/2 hide. I cut some rectangular sections per Herb's required dimensions: 2 pieces 16"x24", and 2 pieces 8"x16" (I added 1 extra inch to each dimension so Herb could do the final cut/fitment):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186721&d=1688399549

Here is the finished carbon fiber door card. He was able to match the satin finish on the CF inserts so that it matches the FFR CF dash exactly:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186358&d=1687794154

Here's the matching seats for reference:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182255&d=1680185338

I'm also planning to do a diamond stitch with the same leather on the transmission tunnel, and also the shifter and e-brake boots.

dbo_texas

07-03-2023, 11:22 AM

I've been trying to get to this for the last several weeks but kids sports (softball tournaments, swim meets, and basketball tournaments) plus a vacation to Mexico have wiped out my weekends pretty much since Summer started. Anyhow, this weekend we finally had a break so I decided to tackle this before I go out of town for work. I need to remove the engine for 2 reasons:

So that I can silicone+rivet all the engine bay panels
So I can run power cables from the front battery box to the firewall, as well as many of the other electrical harnesses (just easier access with the engine removed)

I borrowed a neighbor's 2-ton lift for the job. I have a 1.5 ton Harbor Freight lift, but with the boom arm fully extended (required to reach the engine), you are at the 1/4 ton setting which is right about how much the Coyote + trans weighs. I know its possible, as this is the lift used to install the engine, but since I was able to borrow the larger lift for free, I no longer need to worry about it tipping due to the weight so it seemed like a no brainer. With the 2 ton lift, when the boom arm is extended all the way it is at a 1/2 ton setting which is way above what the Coyote+trans weights (~650 lbs I believe).

First step was to remove the shifter. Simply remove the 6x bolts on the shifter cover, then tap with a rubber hammer and it pops right off. When I reinstall it later (after engine re-install), I'll make sure to reseal this cover with a bed of RTP gasketing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186723&d=1688399571

I bought a leveler on Amazon and mounted it to the engine using the Coyote lift brackets, when get mounted to the engine with some M14 bolts. I got the lift brackets and FFR Coyote stand from someone on this forum (for free - I just paid shipping). The lever works OK, but the handle hits the chains so I just bent it out about 30° and it still cranks OK. To pull the engine was a 2-man job, although I've seen some folks do it solo. We used a lot of micro-adjustments and I supported the trans using my jack until it was free. From there it took a few height adjustments on the frame to get the engine to clear - this was mostly because the crane was hitting my garage door at the top. Ultimately we got it out in about 20-30 minutes. Here's a video time lapse of the process:

https://youtu.be/fT1cMPw6HZk

After we pulled it out, we needed to mount it to the FFR Coyote stand. Here is where I ran into a few issues.

I needed to remove all the header studs from the engine --> it's difficult to get the stand installed with those on, plus I planned on swapping those with bolts anyways.
The T56 doesn't seem to align with the little brackets on the back of the FFR stand. I think they were meant for a TKO600 or maybe TKX, but not the T56. I had to remove them because they were interfering with the clutch fork hydraulic piston assembly.
The FFR engine stand was hitting the oil filter on the front passenger side --> I had to remove that to be able to install the stand. I've seen i.e. 427 Garage's Coyote install video and he leaves the oil filter in place, so maybe my filter is just larger diameter? Eh...I removed it and it fit so not problem.

Here are some reference images of the Coyote + T56 on the FFR Coyote stand. I couldn't find any good pics online so maybe this will help someone in the future. Seems to be well support and in no danger of tipping, but put a 2x4 under the trans tail anyways for storage.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186719&d=1688399549
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186720&d=1688399549

Here's a before/after pic:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186718&d=1688399549

And here is a pic showing how I'm storing the engine while I work on electrical and engine bay prep...making the most of the space I have. This allows my wife to still pull her car into the other bay of the garage.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186722&d=1688399549

Here is a pic of the Coyote + T56 in all it's glory - just because this thing is a beast:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186724&d=1688399571

Final wrap up: Removing the engine wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, which gives me confidence that re-installing it will be OK too. I took my time, and had a 2nd set of hands which I would recommend. One person mostly operated the crane, while the other managed moving the engine/trans around to clear items in the engine bay. I would recommend you remove anything that will get in the way before starting this --> for me it was the firewall which had the heater box & wiper motor, the triple reservoir, radiator + expansion tank, hood hinges, disconnect steering shaft, disconnect brake hard lines in the front (will depend on your routing). Also, that FFR coyote stand is laser cut steel....and it is super sharp. After removing the engine, I took off my gloves thinking I was done. Then my buddy reminded me to re-install 2 bolts on the trans that we pulled off thinking we had figured out where the engine stand brackets in the rear could attach. So I went to go reinstall those, and the wrench slipped and my hand bashed into the engine stand. Sliced it open pretty good and resulted in a trip to the ER with 3 stitches and a tetanus shot. So moral of the story - wear mechanics gloves any time you are working!!! Not a snake bit....but now I can officially say I have blood, sweat & (no tears yet....):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186725&d=1688399958

dbo_texas

07-03-2023, 12:32 PM

Index (will keep this updated as the build progresses)
#2 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=466051&viewfull=1#post466051) - Kit pickup
#19 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=466723&viewfull=1#post466723) - hoist body to ceiling - frame on jackstands
#31 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=468291&viewfull=1#post468291) - stripping POR15 from aluminum panels
#37 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=469218&viewfull=1#post469218) - Tank Removal & Kleiner Quick Jack Mod
#38 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=469219&viewfull=1#post469219) - Russ Thompson Drop Trunk Kit Install
#44 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=475177&viewfull=1#post475177) - Breeze Cockpit Cubby / Breeze Rack Travel Limiters & Offset Bushings
#57 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=476973&viewfull=1#post476973) - Front Suspension Re-Do
#58 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=478371&viewfull=1#post478371) - Russ Thompson Turn Signal System
#64 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=480472&viewfull=1#post480472) - FFR Carbon Fiber Dash Install
#65 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=480473&viewfull=1#post480473) - Under-dash Filler Panel Install
#66 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=480475&viewfull=1#post480475) - NRG Quick Release Install + Russ Thompson Turn Signal
#68 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=481658&viewfull=1#post481658) - Breeze front battery box
#72 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=494818&viewfull=1#post494818) - Hidden Dash Mount (3m Dual Lock Velcro)
#73 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=499800&viewfull=1#post499800) - Aluminum panel powder coating
#79 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=502603&viewfull=1#post502603) - Fuel filler neck grommet replacement
#80 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=502607&viewfull=1#post502607) - Breeze Fuel Filter, Regulator and Single Line Kit Install (Gen2) Coyote
#83 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=502700&viewfull=1#post502700) - Fuel tank mounting + issues
#85 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=504816&viewfull=1#post504816) - Fuel tank vent activated charcoal filter
#89 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=507271&viewfull=1#post507271) - Carbon fiber dash gauge install
#90 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=508110&viewfull=1#post508110) - Brake line flaring & bending
#91 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=508116&viewfull=1#post508116) - Brake line routing
#94 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=508668&viewfull=1#post508668) - Brake-Clutch Triple Reservoir Install
#95 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=509214&viewfull=1#post509214), #99 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=510634&viewfull=1#post510634), - Hydroboost Pushrod Adjustment
#100 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=510638&viewfull=1#post510638) - Fuel Line Routing - 3/8 SS Braided PTFE
#101 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=511313&viewfull=1#post511313), #109 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=511967&viewfull=1#post511967) - Clutch Safety Switch Mounting
#104 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=511498&viewfull=1#post511498), #108 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=511961&viewfull=1#post511961) - Brake Pedal position adjust w/ hydroboost
#110 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=512535&viewfull=1#post512535), #111 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=513142&viewfull=1#post513142) - Radiator Mount - Breeze Fan Shroud + Upper/Lower Mounts
#112 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=513145&viewfull=1#post513145) - Hood Hinges Installation
#114 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=513624&viewfull=1#post513624), #120 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=515200&viewfull=1#post515200)- Mishimoto Coolant Expansion Tank MMRT-MUS-15EBK Install
#121 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=515201&viewfull=1#post515201) - KRC Coyote Power Steering Kit Install
#122 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=519481&viewfull=1#post519481) - Access Panel Installation
#123 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=519486&viewfull=1#post519486), #127 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=522394&viewfull=1#post522394), #128 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=523667&viewfull=1#post523667), #129 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=523671&viewfull=1#post523671) - Heater Installation (multiple posts)
#125 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=521867&viewfull=1#post521867) - Intatrim Stoneleigh Custom Saddle Leather Seats
#129 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=523671&viewfull=1#post523671) - Shortening Glove Box Mod (to fit heater)
#132 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=525716&viewfull=1#post525716) - Wiper Motor Install
#133 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=525719&viewfull=1#post525719) - Coyote ECU Install
#134 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=528906&viewfull=1#post528906) - Color Spray-outs and Engine Removal Prep
#135 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=530054&viewfull=1#post530054) - Herb's Door Cards - Carbon Fiber w/ custom saddle leather
#136 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=530778&viewfull=1#post530778) - Coyote + T56 Engine-Trans Removal
#141 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=531105&viewfull=1#post531105) - E-Brake mounting bracket removal
#143 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=532513&viewfull=1#post532513) - Master Cutoff Switch and USB Ports
#145 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=537864&viewfull=1#post537864) - Aluminum panel final install - footboxes and cockpit
#146 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=538678&viewfull=1#post538678) - Courtesy light install

dbo_texas

07-03-2023, 12:33 PM

#147 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=540675&viewfull=1#post540675), #148 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=540676&viewfull=1#post540676) - Wiring Planning
#162 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=543610&viewfull=1#post543610) - Dash wiring
#162 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=543610&viewfull=1#post543610) - Coyote ECU & Chassis Power Wiring
#169 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=548378&viewfull=1#post548378) - Drivetrain install (engine/T56 prep and initial install)
#170 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=548383&viewfull=1#post548383) - Headers, driveshaft IRS adapter, driveshaft install
#171 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=548420&viewfull=1#post548420) - T56 interference, A-frame Modification, Transmission Mount, Driveshaft Installation
#172 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=549740&viewfull=1#post549740), #173 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=552634&viewfull=1#post552634) - Metco Driveshaft Safety Loop install
#175 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=553659&viewfull=1#post553659), #180 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=556167&viewfull=1#post556167), #183 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=557178&viewfull=1#post557178) - Transmission Tunnel Cutouts
#176 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=554954&viewfull=1#post554954), #179 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=556165&viewfull=1#post556165), #181 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=556170&viewfull=1#post556170) - e-brake handle relocation
#183 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=557178&viewfull=1#post557178) - Cup Holders
#182 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=556714&viewfull=1#post556714), #185 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=557857&viewfull=1#post557857), #186 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=559012&viewfull=1#post559012) - brake & hydraulic clutch bleeding
#184 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=557180&viewfull=1#post557180), #205 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=568886&viewfull=1#post568886), #211 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=572302&viewfull=1#post572302) - Footbox Blowers
#187 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=559415&viewfull=1#post559415), #194 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=562049&viewfull=1#post562049), ??? - Fluids (Diff, Transmission, Power Steering, Coolant)
#192 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=561805&viewfull=1#post561805), #193 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=561806&viewfull=1#post561806), #197-#199 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=565048&viewfull=1#post565048) - Coolant System & Heater Plumbing
#195 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=564430&viewfull=1#post564430), #215 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=573875&viewfull=1#post573875) - Hydroboost Power Steering Plumbing & Oil Cooler Install
#200 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=565078&viewfull=1#post565078) - Coyote Intake Install & Plumbing
#193 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=561806&viewfull=1#post561806), #204 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=568341&viewfull=1#post568341), #211 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=572302&viewfull=1#post572302)- Heater bypass valve
#205 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=568886&viewfull=1#post568886) - Header heat deflectors
#214 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=573867&viewfull=1#post573867) - Upper Ball Joint Dust Boot Swap
#162 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=543610&viewfull=1#post543610), #217-#219 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=574236&viewfull=1#post574236), ??? - Electrical

dbo_texas

07-05-2023, 09:23 AM

***reserved for build index continuation***

Its Bruce

07-05-2023, 02:52 PM

FYI - I installed my Stoneleigh seats with the Breeze mounts this past weekend. Let me know if you need photos.

dbo_texas

07-05-2023, 10:19 PM

FYI - I installed my Stoneleigh seats with the Breeze mounts this past weekend. Let me know if you need photos.
Yeah I'd definitely like to see some photos to see how you mounted them. Did you just drop through the seat pan? I'll send you a DM with my email.

The T56 transmission hits the e-brake mounting bracket which is welded to the frame on the PS of the trans tunnel. The stock location is fine for TKO500/600 and TKX transmissions, but not the T56. So now that I finally got the engine & trans removed, I decided to use the July 4th holiday to cut this bracket off the frame. My plan is to mount the stock FFR e-brake handle to the top of the trans tunnel --> not sure which side yet. I think I prefer the PS toward the rear because it seems that would put it within perfect reach, but I may mock it up, put my seat in and determine if I like that location.

To remove the stock bracket from the frame, I started with a Dremel + cutoff wheel, but the welds on this bracket were so large it was taking forever, so I brought out my angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. That made pretty quick work of it, but I did have to put in a new cutoff wheel which had a large enough diameter to cut all the way through the flange. After removing it, I used a large file to trim down some of the leftover metal, and finished it off with the angle grinder + sanding disc. After it was cleaned up and smooth, I sprayed a thick coat of Rustoleum Matte Custom Shop Black - P/N 263422 spray paint which is a pretty decent match to the FFR frame powder coat. I'll need to make a patch panel to cover up the side of the hole on the trans tunnel, but I have plenty of leftover aluminum I can use for that and the part should be easy to make using a cardboard template.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186841&d=1688566777

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186842&d=1688566777

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186843&d=1688566777

dbo_texas

07-21-2023, 09:13 PM

I mocked up the location of my FFR e-brake mounted on the PS of the top of the trans tunnel. I'm using all stock FFR parts currently. My main issue right now is that I need to shorten the FFR cable length significantly. I'm a little worried about putting a good crimp on the end - something that will hold under the tension of the actuated brake. Some folks on the FF Builder Facebook page said to use nicopress sleeves and call it a day - they look pretty straight forward to crimp on with the right tool. The alternative is to use the Wilwood Universal Parking Brake Cable Kit 330-9371 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-330-9371) which has a clamp style block to interface w/ the cable (no crimping required). But that kit is pricey ($100 - $160). All I really need is the clamping block so I may try the nicopress sleeves first and if they don't work I can always buy the Wilwood kit.

Assembly: For some reason I actually have QTY 2 of the FFR e-brake kits (p/n 15183). I see it on the original builder's POL list...so maybe he actually had it and missed it, then FFR shipped him another one. One small modification I made was to put two nylon washers on each side of the ratchet pawl. Without those, the pawl had a ton of left-to-right play, and seemed like it was just barely grabbing the teeth. With the washers, it feels rock solid. You can just see a little bit of the white nylon washers I added peaking out in the pics below.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187486&d=1689991191

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187487&d=1689991191

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187488&d=1689991191

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187489&d=1689991191

OK so here is an interesting view --> I overlaid an image (white outline) I had of when the engine+T56 trans was installed, and turned that image transparent and then scaled it and positioned it so the 3/4 frame bars lined up pretty close with my new picture of the e-brake install. I'm trying to see if there would be any interference issues with the transmission and my e-brake location. Looks OK as far as I can tell from this picture. We'll see when I put the engine back in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187490&d=1689991191

And here's a video showing the actuation. Anyone see any issues with my plan to try cutting the cables shorter & crimping them? Seems like this will let me keep all the stock FFR hardware.

https://youtu.be/Z4z-rjUXnr0

dbo_texas

07-22-2023, 03:04 PM

Today I installed a couple of the electrical items - didn't take very long and I only had about an hour to spare so this was a good little project to keep the build moving forward. I used the 1000A Hella billet cutoff switch from Northracecar (https://www.northracecars.com/other_items.html). It's a nice looking switch and installs easily by drilling 3 holes, and then it mounts with 2 screws from the rear that drive into the billet cover on the front. It comes with both the red plastic key and a billet aluminum key which looks really nice.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187509&d=1690055468

Closeup of the engine side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187510&d=1690055468

Front side w/ the key in off/on positions:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187512&d=1690055468

After this was complete I installed a combo 12V + USB port at the rear of the trans tunnel. I do plan to add another USB port on the bottom side of the dash filler panel so I can charge my phone when mounted to a holder on the dash. I plan to use these USB ports for potentially charging stuff that is stored in the cockpit cubby. I have ideas about maybe mounting a portable Bluetooth speaker in the cubby (strapped down) so this would give me an easy way to charge it periodically.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187513&d=1690055487

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187514&d=1690055487

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187515&d=1690055487

I also installed a dual USB port on the under-dash filler panel so I can have a power cable to my phone holder which I still need to figure out how/where to mount. I have 2 holes drilled - one is centered, and the other is biased toward the driver side. I'm thinking I will use the center location but not sure yet. Need to finalize all the other switches on the dash bump-out and then I'll decide.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190260&d=1695137293

Still thinking about the parking brake situation...my general thoughts are that I might end up moving it to the DS of the trans tunnel because there is more room on that side vs. the PS due to how the T56 sits biased to the PS. The mounting would be the same, just reversed. I think because of the 3/4" cross brace locations on the DS, I'd need to move it up significantly and I'm a little worried the handle won't clear the dash lip. I've seen other mount the Lokar handle in that position but I think its maybe a little shorter. I need to play with this a little more and do a test fit. I also think I might buy the Lokar brake cable kit because many people have said it is much easier to adjust than the FFR kit, and you don't need to crimp any wires because it uses a clamp style block. There are knockoff kits on Amazon which look identical but cost about 1/3 what the Lokar kit costs so I might go that route.

Its Bruce

07-22-2023, 08:21 PM

My suggestion: go electric on the parking brake and get rid of the handle entirely. If I did it all over again, I'd run the actuator in the rear fender instead of in the trunk area.

dbo_texas

09-20-2023, 05:03 PM

I got to spend a solid day getting the panels permanently mounted with silicone + rivets. I used the GE Silicone II (clear). Most of the rivets are the shorter 1/4" grip, but pretty much anything going into the 4" round frame tube, 2"x2" frame tube, or steel seat pan used the longer 3/8" grip length. I didn't mount the trunk floor yet because I need to run the rear chassis harness first, so that will go in later. Feels good to finally get these installed in preparation of the harness routing. Here are some reference pics in case it helps anyone:

Footboxes: I left the DS outer panel off for now so I still have access to the pedal box
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190306&d=1695242173

Firewall & Coyote PDB fuse bracket (custom):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190312&d=1695246753

Cockpit rear wall:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190305&d=1695242173

Cockpit floor
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190307&d=1695242173

More cockpit
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190308&d=1695242173

Transmission tunnel:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190309&d=1695242192

Under-dash filler panel and firewall support bracket:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190260&d=1695137293

Next Up:

Install cockpit heat/sound insulation
Installing the Coyote power wires and Coyote harness
Installing chassis harness
Finish final assembly on the dash. I bought all new '65 Mustang switches, knobs and bezels because I wanted all of them to match, vs. the hodge podge of mix-n-match parts FFR provides. It's going to look pretty sweet when it's all put together (coming in a later post).

dbo_texas

10-02-2023, 09:33 AM

Over the weekend I installed some courtesy lights. I placed 4 on the dash, and 2 on each side of the trunk. I may put a couple in the engine bay as well. I bought a 10-pack from Amazon. Easy to install - they are epoxy sealed and come with a rubber grommet for installation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRR1J4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190762&d=1696256810

Dash locations - After installing my dash switches however, I may need to shuffle the LEDs around a bit so they aren't in the way. An example is the headlight switch which mounts really deep into the dash and might interfere. But adding a new LED locations is as simple as drilling a new hole in the under-dash filler panel, so no biggie.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190761&d=1696256810

Trunk PS:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190763&d=1696256810

Trunk DS:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190764&d=1696256810

dbo_texas

10-27-2023, 03:07 PM

I've been reviewing the schematics for the different harnesses and connectors, and trying to figure out what to modify and what to add. Here's the general plan - as a reminder I have a Gen 2 Coyote + T56. I'd like any input/feedback on the plan below - if any advice or recommendations to improve, please reply to my thread. I highlighted a couple of questions I either haven't had time to investigate yet or couldn't find details on the forum. Big shoutout to edwardb, JohnK & 460-465USMC build threads for a lot of the excellent details. Apologies if I screw up some of this below - it most definitely isn't your fault but my own so feel free to set me straight.

Power Wiring
I plan to pretty much mimic what edwardb did on this build #8674 (reference (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=231732&viewfull=1#post231732)). For the most part this is straight forward.

Run #2 AWG from battery to master cuttoff unswitched side
Run #4 AWG from same terminal (unswitched side of master cutoff switch) to 250A mega fuse, then over to PDB front terminal
Run #4 AWG from master disconnect switched side (upper post) left to the starter on the PS side of engine (run w/ Coyote harness ground wire & starter wire from Coyote ECU leg of the Coyote harness)
Breakout the starter power and starter wire near the starter motor and continue the Coyote harness ground to the main chassis ground point located near the front battery (tap 4in frame tube)
Connect #2 AWG or #4 AWG to main chassis ground point (tapped threads on 4" frame tube)
I don't have a cable crimper for the large AWG cable lugs, so I might buy the Fusion solder lugs instead of buying more tools (TBD).

Coyote Harness

Reroute the long blunt cut black #10 AWG ground wire with the main battery feed cable along the frame and terminate at the Ø4" tube ground location (near battery). This should break out of the Coyote harness at the loom split near the firewall. This wire is hanging out, already split at the firewall breakout --> will I need to extend this (it isn't long enough to reach the front ground point)?
Reroute the blue start signal wire from the ECU leg of the harness to break out at the loom near the firewall and run this down the main power loom (new) with the ground wire & main battery feed --> break it out of the loom near the starter location. Will need to unwrap the ECU leg to get this free and reroute.
Breakout the orange fan power wire (#10 AWG) from the ECU leg, and create a new loom extension to run it to the front and then down to the radiator fan
Add a new wire to the new cooling fan leg back to the dash so I can connect my dash "fan running" indicator lamp. You will need to do this while the ECU leg of the harness is unwrapped
May need to strip back the dash side of the harness loom to relocate some items (TBD) Here are some examples I may want to relocate: OBD2 port, MIL, throttle DBW, and clutch bottom switch area all grouped together. Throttle & clutch switches need to go to DS footbox, MIL & OBD2 can mount under the dash somewhere -->edwardB puts OBD2 over by the glove box but others put it under the steering column. Either is fine….just need to lay it out and evaluate if I need to break the harness apart and relocate stuff.
Connect the Blue SMR Start Request from 16-way connector to the Blue EFI Crank wire in the RF harness --> is this Blue EFI Crank wire connected to the "START" terminal on the ignition?
OK to cut the factory oil pressure sensor connector off the Coyote Harness (will use the Speedhut oil pressure sender instead), heat shrink the wires & wrap it into the harness loom. Or you can just leave the connector and tie it off somewhere out of the way. You can wrap this entire leg back into that portion of the harness which then needs to route over to the exhaust O2 sensor --> there is advantage to this because DW O2 sensor is on this leg, and if you don't need to plug in the Coyote harness oil pressure plug you can reroute it so the length is OK per JohnK (reference post #195 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(Nice-shoutout-on-Insta-about-my-build)&p=466949&viewfull=1#post466949))
For splicing into the cylinder tach wire, consider using Posi-Tap (per JohnK post #192 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(Nice-shoutout-on-Insta-about-my-build)&p=466507&viewfull=1#post466507)) or T-Taps

RF Chassis Harness

Plan to remove the 33 hotrod leg of the harness (not needed). --> Are any of these on fused circuits? If so, I might want to keep them for other stuff.
The starter leg of the harness (3 red wires, one blue solenoid start wire) can be re-routed to the Blue Seas busbar instead of to the starter solenoid (I will run a separate #4 cable from master disconnect to starter motor, and then #8 from this same place to the Blue Seas Busbar). So this one isn't really removed, just not routed through the firewall with the included 1.25" grommet. The Blue Solenoid Start wire in this leg can be capped and tied out of the way (or dieted out) - it won't be used w/ the Coyoted build
For the alternator leg, I think I have two options:

OPTION 1 - Remove alternator feed wire from the loom and route this to the alternator with the sender unit harness.

OPTION 2 - keep this leg on the main chassis harness, and add the sender unit harness wires to this leg --> I think I'm leaning toward this option because it eliminates the separate sending unit harness (either way they all go to the same place, so I don't need both the alternator leg of the main chassis harness and the separate sender unit harness so I plan to merge them. Is this alternator leg long enough to reach the alternator or will I need to extend it?
I think I can cap the brown wire in the alternator leg...I don't believe this is needed for a 1-wire alternator. I'm pretty sure I have a 1-wire setup (from Forte), but I'm not sure how to check. Any suggestions for how to confirm?
OK to cut & cap off the 2 blue clutch safety wires in the RF harness (I'll be using the clutch bottom switch on the Coyote harness instead)
Orange cooling fan wire --> since this is a fused circuit and I don't need it to run the fan (that will be controlled by the Coyote harness), I can use this to power the seat heaters. I Plan to break out of the harness and route along outside of trans tunnel on either side (extend as necessary)
I'll check ignition and headlight leg lengths --> might be possible to shorten these based on where my switches are on the dash.
I'm planning to use the tan electric choke wire (10 amp fused) for the Coyote light green Ignition Relay Trigger --> FFR instructions say to use COIL/EFI (15 A fused) bus I plan to use that for my footbox fan blowers. As long as I'm using a source for the Ignition Relay Trigger which is +12V when ignition is on, that should be OK right? I think the tan choke wire meets the criteria.

*continued in next post - exceeded post 10,000 character limit*

dbo_texas

10-27-2023, 03:08 PM

*wiring plan continued*

Sender Unit Harness
As mentioned above, I think I'll pull these wires out of the loom and route them with the alternator leg of the main RF chassis harness. Any reason this is a bad idea?
For the sending unit wires (oil pressure, water temp), I think there are 2 options again.

OPTION 1 (my preference) - Use the RF sender unit wires (oil pressure, water temp). I think this just means I need to terminate the dash side of those wires with the Speedhut Vintage Gauge connectors. Is that correct?
OPTION 2 - use the sender wires that came with the gauges

Front Harness
The only thing I think I need to modify on this are:

Possibly shorten the ends to the headlights, horn, etc. and add Weather Pack connectors on the ends for connecting the lights
Add wires to this loom for the DS footbox blower (the PS wire might need to route w/ the Coyote harness ECU leg and break out with the cooling fan wire)

Rear Harness

OK to remove Speedo wire (don't need w/ GPS gauge) or cap & tie off
Add wires for the +12V for USB ports on trans tunnel - I plan to use the existing radio circuit in RF chassis harness - would the fuse rating on this be sufficient to power 3 USB ports? 2 in the trans tunnel, one on the dash?
Add wires for the +12V courtesy light power for trunk & cockpit cubby (tap into existing RF circuit for courtesy lights)
Add wires to harness for reverse lights --> need a fused Ign. switched +12v feed to the transmission reverse switch, and the subsequent +12v switched (via the transmission) feed to the rear of the car. (per FixIt post #165 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-40-Watt-Garage-amp-9365&p=339844&viewfull=1#post339844)) - I'm not fully understanding what is needed here so need to research a bit more. Anyone has details/ideas on this, let me know
Possibly shorten the tail light/ brake light legs, and maybe add Weather Pack connectors on the ends for connecting to the lights

Dash & Gauges - Speedhut Vintage GPS

can eliminate the speedo wire from rear harness - not needed w/ GPS
will power the GPS & clock using HAAT from Coyote harness. Could also use RF chassis harness radio memory right?
I switched the stock FFR ignition, headlight switch, and wiper switch to use '65 Mustang switches. The terminals are slightly different so I need to figure out how to wire these up. I think the '65 Painless Wiring Harness instructions have pinout diagrams for these, so I still need to try and map these over to FFR harness wires. If anyone has already one this, please share the details (otherwise I'll post later how they map over)!

New stuff I'll be adding (i.e. not part of kit)

Run #2 AWG ground cable from battery to Ø4" frame tube near battery (#4 AWG should also be OK).
Run #2 AWG battery cable from positive battery lead to master disconnect non-switched post (lower post)
Run short #4 AWG battery cable from master disconnect non-switched post (lower post) to the 250A mega fuse below PDB
Run #4 AWG battery cable from 250A mega fuse to PDB front power tap
Run new #4 AWG cable from master disconnect switched side (upper post) left to the starter on left side of engine (run w/ Coyote harness ground wire & starter wire from Coyote ECU leg of the harness)
Run #8 AWG cable from master disconnect switched side (upper post) to the right and merge into the rear harness and enter the footbox, then break out of rear harness and route up to the Blue Seas busbar. This will serve as the main +12V feed to the RF harness.
On the Blue Seas busbar (added), connect +12V from switched side of master disconnect (per item above), and then connect the three +12V wires from the RF harness (Red Battery Feed, Red Alternator Feed, and Red Ignition Switch Feed) - these are on the starter leg of the RF harness and can be rerouted to the busbar --> note the Red Alternator Feed should go through a 150A mega fuse before it gets to the busbar
Neutral Safety Switch --> I plan to splice 2 wires into the Coyote Bottom Clutch Switch and run them to the Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission. This puts the Neutral Safety Switch in parallel to the clutch switch, and when EITHER switch is closed, the circuit will close and the ECU will allow the car to start. Does this plan seem like it will work as intended? While not necessary since I have the clutch switch, it would allow me to start the car without being in the driver seat
Add power wires for the footbox fresh air blowers --> as mentioned above I plan to use existing COIL/EFI circuit from RF fuse box for this functionality

Its Bruce

10-27-2023, 04:50 PM

dbo_texas

10-27-2023, 05:20 PM

Most USB's have a 2.5A max rating. How does 7.5A compare to your USB fuse?

What's the reason for the backup lights?

The neutral switch seems like overkill, but that's just my opinion. I guess you'd wire it in parallel with the clutch switch so either/or would be required to start the car; are you planning a remote start?

USB: The RF schematic for the chassis harness shows this circuit is for Gauge feed & radio power (when ignition ON) --> shows a 10A fuse. I don't think the gauges draw very much, so I'm assuming the 10A is good to power them.
Reverse/Backup light: I need to get inspected in Texas and I think they are required (I haven't confirmed this yet, but planning for it)
Neutral switch - yes wiring it in parallel to clutch switch was recommend to me...I think edwardb suggested that as one option (there are other ways to do it). I realize its overkill...but want the flexibility to start the car without being in it. Not planning remote start function (but who knows...)

Its Bruce

10-27-2023, 05:56 PM

I haven't inspected yet, but I don't believe back up lights are required because it wasn't provided by Shelby in 65.

edwardb

10-28-2023, 06:50 AM

OPTION 1 (my preference) - Use the RF sender unit wires (oil pressure, water temp). I think this just means I need to terminate the dash side of those wires with the Speedhut Vintage Gauge connectors. Is that correct? Either way works. But this is how I've done my builds. I prefer the wires going through the dash connectors.

Connect the Blue SMR Start Request from 16-way connector to the Blue EFI Crank wire in the RF harness --> is this Blue EFI Crank wire connected to the "START" terminal on the ignition? Yes.

Add wires to harness for reverse lights --> need a fused Ign. switched +12v feed to the transmission reverse switch, and the subsequent +12v switched (via the transmission) feed to the rear of the car. (per FixIt post #165) - I'm not fully understanding what is needed here so need to research a bit more. Anyone has details/ideas on this, let me know. That's how I wired the backup lights in my Coupe. Works fine. Used LED lights so the current draw across the transmission switch is very low. Backup lights not required in Michigan. But I prefer them for safety plus future if it ever ends up in another state where they are required.

Plan to remove the 33 hotrod leg of the harness (not needed). --> Are any of these on fused circuits? If so, I might want to keep them for other stuff. They are all parallels to other existing circuits. Easiest is just to leave it. If you remove, trace the wires as far back as you’re comfortable and make sure the ends are capped/insulated. They are typically live circuits.

Is this alternator leg long enough to reach the alternator or will I need to extend it? Don’t know. Depends on how you route it. No big deal to extend or replace.

I think I can cap the brown wire in the alternator leg...I don't believe this is needed for a 1-wire alternator. I'm pretty sure I have a 1-wire setup (from Forte), but I'm not sure how to check. Any suggestions for how to confirm? Forte didn’t provide the Ford Performance Coyote specific alternator? Too bad. You won’t be able to use the Coyote harness connector that allows the PCM to control it. If it only has a single large lug for the 12V cable and nothing else, it’s a 1-wire.

I'm planning to use the tan electric choke wire (10 amp fused) for the Coyote light green Ignition Relay Trigger --> FFR instructions say to use COIL/EFI (15 A fused) bus I plan to use that for my footbox fan blowers. As long as I'm using a source for the Ignition Relay Trigger which is +12V when ignition is on, that should be OK right? I think the tan choke wire meets the criteria. I used the choke wire for my Coupe build. Works fine.

As mentioned above, I think I'll pull these wires out of the loom and route them with the alternator leg of the main RF chassis harness. Any reason this is a bad idea? Worked for me.

Add wires for the +12V for USB ports on trans tunnel - I plan to use the existing radio circuit in RF chassis harness - would the fuse rating on this be sufficient to power 3 USB ports? 2 in the trans tunnel, one on the dash? Depends on the amperage draw. USB plugs have a relatively low draw. That radio circuit may need a lower amp fuse to really offer the proper protection.

I will power the GPS & clock using HAAT from Coyote harness. Could also use RF chassis harness radio memory right? The Coyote HAAT is the better choice. The RF chassis HAAT will go off with the master disconnect the way you have it wired.

I switched the stock FFR ignition, headlight switch, and wiper switch to use '65 Mustang switches. The terminals are slightly different so I need to figure out how to wire these up. I think the '65 Painless Wiring Harness instructions have pinout diagrams for these, so I still need to try and map these over to FFR harness wires. If anyone has already one this, please share the details (otherwise I'll post later how they map over)! Can’t help you with much of that. Good luck with the wiper switch (getting it to park, etc.) and the headlight switch needs to be wired exactly like the AC-Delco version supplied with the kit to match the RF wiring scheme. Plus it has the internal circuit breaker for the headlights. Personally IMO that’s a lot of work just to have a different knob. Maybe graft the Mustang knob onto the kit supplied switch? In both cases.

460.465USMC

10-28-2023, 01:07 PM

Hi Darryl,

Great work on all the planning for your electrical.

Reroute the long blunt cut black #10 AWG ground wire with the main battery feed cable along the frame and terminate at the Ø4" tube ground location (near battery). This should break out of the Coyote harness at the loom split near the firewall. This wire is hanging out, already split at the firewall breakout --> will I need to extend this (it isn't long enough to reach the front ground point)?

I didn't see a response to this question. Yes, assuming the #10 AWG with your earlier version Coyote harness is the same as my Gen 3, it will easily reach a grounding point to the 4" chassis tube near the forward battery location.

For the alternator leg, I think I have two options:

OPTION 1 - Remove alternator feed wire from the loom and route this to the alternator with the sender unit harness.

OPTION 2 - keep this leg on the main chassis harness, and add the sender unit harness wires to this leg --> I think I'm leaning toward this option because it eliminates the separate sending unit harness (either way they all go to the same place, so I don't need both the alternator leg of the main chassis harness and the separate sender unit harness so I plan to merge them. Is this alternator leg long enough to reach the alternator or will I need to extend it?
I think I can cap the brown wire in the alternator leg...I don't believe this is needed for a 1-wire alternator. I'm pretty sure I have a 1-wire setup (from Forte), but I'm not sure how to check. Any suggestions for how to confirm?

You may want to double check, because Forte supplied an alternator compliant with my Coyote harness. Check your alternator for a multi-pin plug that matches the one in the harness. In the picture below, it's the black connector (side view--right side of alternator directly below the +12V lug connection) where the harness plugs in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167395&d=1653791146

dbo_texas

10-28-2023, 06:26 PM

Hi Darryl,

Great work on all the planning for your electrical.

I didn't see a response to this question. Yes, assuming the #10 AWG with your earlier version Coyote harness is the same as my Gen 3, it will easily reach a grounding point to the 4" chassis tube near the forward battery location.

You may want to double check, because Forte supplied an alternator compliant with my Coyote harness. Check your alternator for a multi-pin plug that matches the one in the harness. In the picture below, it's the black connector (side view--right side of alternator directly below the +12V lug connection) where the harness plugs in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167395&d=1653791146

Thanks for the feedback both of you! Much appreciated.

I just checked and the P/N on my alternator matches yours and has the plug for the coyote harness connector, so I assume I'm good to remove the brown wire from that alternator leg of the RF chassis harness. I think I'm still set on my plan, now time to just go do it.

edwardb

10-28-2023, 09:52 PM

I just checked and the P/N on my alternator matches yours and has the plug for the coyote harness connector, so I assume I'm good to remove the brown wire from that alternator leg of the RF chassis harness...

Good to see you have the recommended alternator. Same one I have as well. Sold as Ford Performance M-8600-M50BALT. For reference, that's a 6G alternator (as opposed to a 1-wire) and is available in 130, 170, and 200-amp ratings. Haven't been able to figure out which one we're getting. But even if the lowest 130 amp, should be plenty. And yes, loose the brown wire.

dbo_texas

11-01-2023, 04:03 PM

For those who have installed the T56 in the roadster, I have 2 questions:

Does the bracket circled in the pic interfere w/ the T56? I already cut out the main e-brake mounting bracket from the PS, but wasn't sure about this one originally used for routing the e-brake cables.
For e-brake relocation, I'm planning to put on top of the trans tunnel on the PS. I superimposed the top view of the e-brake location onto the temporary placement of the T56, and it looks like it will fit but gets a little close at the trans joint with the driveshaft. I thought maybe I could move the e-brake forward and it might have a little more clearance to the driveshaft and still clear the shifter. Has anyone located it in this area with a T56? I've seen most move it to the DS but with the carbon fiber dash bump out, the handle is just too long - I'd need to go with a completely different e-brake which I don't think I want to do. E-Stop is another option but I prefer to keep the manual pull handle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191829&d=1698872586

edwardb

11-01-2023, 04:47 PM

dbo_texas

11-01-2023, 05:30 PM

The location you're proposing is exactly where Factory Five mounts the e-brake handle on the Coupe. I realize the tunnels are likely different. But my Coupe has the T-56 and the handle fits there perfectly. The Coupe version doesn't use the right angle mounting brackets. It sits up higher and I suspect yours also needs to be higher to clear the transmission. FWIW, picture of the handle mounted during my Coupe build:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78646&d=1515021607

I see - thanks for the reference image. Looks like the teeth on the e-brake sit mostly above the tunnel. I guess that's ok as long as nothing smacks into the boot/cover. I'll mock mine up like yours once I reinstall the drivetrain and see how much clearance there is.

edwardb

11-02-2023, 06:23 AM

I see - thanks for the reference image. Looks like the teeth on the e-brake sit mostly above the tunnel. I guess that's ok as long as nothing smacks into the boot/cover. I'll mock mine up like yours once I reinstall the drivetrain and see how much clearance there is.

One more comment about the installation in the Coupe which may apply to you if you use this mounting location. Factory Five supplied the same boot as the Roadster side mounted setup and said to modify it as needed for the Coupe location and configuration. I wasn't super happy with that, so bought a Lokar 70-EHBF Hand Brake Boot kit. The boot didn't fit. So I ended up modifying the Roadster one that FF supplied after all. But I did use the Lokar trim ring which worked perfectly. Maybe it's available separately? I don't know. Haven't looked. The teeth exposed on the back side is not an issue at all in my experience. One more shameless Coupe picture. :rolleyes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119896&d=1578025278

dbo_texas

11-02-2023, 08:09 AM

One more comment about the installation in the Coupe which may apply to you if you use this mounting location. Factory Five supplied the same boot as the Roadster side mounted setup and said to modify it as needed for the Coupe location and configuration. I wasn't super happy with that, so bought a Lokar 70-EHBF Hand Brake Boot kit. The boot didn't fit. So I ended up modifying the Roadster one that FF supplied after all. But I did use the Lokar trim ring which worked perfectly. Maybe it's available separately? I don't know. Haven't looked. The teeth exposed on the back side is not an issue at all in my experience. One more shameless Coupe picture. :rolleyes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119896&d=1578025278

Thanks for the tip on the boot. I did buy the Lokar trim ring already, and will be making a custom boot out of the same saddle leather as my Intatrim seats. I'll give the upholstery shop the FFR boot and make sure they know we'll need to modify the pattern a bit.

dbo_texas

11-06-2023, 01:15 PM

One more question on power --> Originally I planned to run an 8AWG +12V feed from the switched side of master disconnect over to the Blue Seas terminal block behind the dash. Would there be any concern if I ran a 4AWG instead? I might add a 2nd fuse panel with 6 additional circuits behind the dash, and I was thinking the 4AWG would be safer to power both the RF fuse panel and the new fuse panel daisy chained off the Blue Seas terminal block. Any concerns with this? The Blue Seas terminal block can handle plenty of current (100 amp) so I'm not concerned with that part - just wondering if there is any downside of running the 4AWG cable which I already have plenty of from the FFR kit. I'd need to buy some 8AWG wire, so there's that too (but that's a minor issue).

dbo_texas

12-04-2023, 10:06 AM

It's been a little while since I updated, but I've been slowly working through the electrical. My primary goal is to finish the power wiring and re-routing the Coyote harness starter wire and main harness ground to run with the power from the master disconnect to the starter location. All this has to be completed so I can re-install the drivetrain. As of last night, I finally finished those items, as well as finished mounting all the switches & knobs on the CF dash. I haven't completed the dash yet (i.e. haven't daisy chained the gauges or attached the dash harness), but it feels good to get all the switches mounted.

Here's the dash - I'll post more about this later along with a full breakdown of some of the modifications I had to do, but the main item is that I now have all the '65 Mustang switches mounted. I ended up sticking with the stock FFR headlight switch instead of the '65 mustang headlight switch, and I was able to modify the shaft and Mustang knob so it works (maintains 65 mustang knob appearance). But I am still using the '65 Mustang wiper knob (rotary), and heater knob (w/ FFR heater kit switch).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192882&d=1701701355

I bought a kit on Ebay from APC (https://www.ebay.com/itm/122217306383)which included a 65 mustang ignition switch + bezel, rotary wiper switch + bezel, headlight switch + bezel, and cigarette lighter. Note: I did NOT end up using the headlight switch from this kit.

Ignition Switch - I used the one from the APC kit, but had to buy the cylinder + a set of keys (https://www.cjponyparts.com/ignition-switch-cylinder-1965-1966/p/HW1541/), and a spacer (https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-ignition-switch-spacer-mustang-1965-1966/p/HW1538/) to mount it to the dash.

Headlight switch - I used the existing FFR switch and retaining nut, and used the bezel from the APC kit, and then bought this knob (https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-windshield-wiper-switch-knob-chrome-mustang-1965-1966/p/HW1399/) to replace the one on the FFR switch. If I recall, it was a pain to get the knob off the FFR shaft because it is a press-fit. I added a small flat on the end of the shaft to be able to tighten the set screw on the knob.

Wiper: used 65 mustang switch and bezel from APC kit, but had to buy this spacer (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDK-C4DZ17C443A) to mount it, along with this retaining nut (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDK-C4DZ-17512-A) to mount it to the dash

Heater: used FFR heater switch, but replaced the black plastic knob with this knob (https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-windshield-wiper-switch-knob-chrome-mustang-1965-1966/p/HW1399/), and had to add this bezel (https://tomsoffroad.com/products/66-77-ford-bronco-heater-fan-switch-bezel) and this nut (https://tomsoffroad.com/products/69-77-ford-bronco-wiper-switch-bezel-nut?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=b2df022de&pr_rec_pid=6989445300322&pr_ref_pid=6989364035682&pr_seq=uniform) to mount to dash
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192883&d=1701701355

I got the battery installed (Optima Yellow Top 8071-167) - it's a Group D51 size and installed in the front mount location with the Breeze box. No issues with that:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192881&d=1701701355

For the power wiring, I followed edward's 20th anniversary build, as many others have done. I also switched to #2 AWG battery cables with a #4 going to the starter. I de-loomed the ECU leg of the Coyote harness so that I could pull out the blue starter wire and rout that down with the battery cables to where it needs to end up on the passenger side near the engine mount. I also ran the Coyote harness blunt-cut #10 AWG ground wire with these items and ran it all the way up to the front battery ground location. Finally, I ran a wire through the Coyote ECU leg that I can tie into the Coyote Cooling Fan wire (orange) and ran that back up the loom into the dash so I can run it to my dash indicator light which will show me when the fan is running.

Here's the Coyote ECU leg after pulling it out of the 1" split loom:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192886&d=1701702018

This is what it looks like as I was re-adjusting the wiring. The blue wire running with the power cables is the starter wire (from Coyote ECU leg) - it terminates near the PS engine mount along with the starter +12V switched from the Master Disconnect. The blue wire hanging down is the fan wire running back to the dash for the indicator light (I didn't have any orange wire so just used what I had). All I can say is that my fingers are numb from getting these cables out of the loom and peeling off all that damn tape.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192884&d=1701701355

And here it is all buttoned up and put back into the split-loom. I may re-wrap these with some cloth loom tape and I also need to buy some smaller cable clamps. I bought the 1.125" ones from DelCity but they are way too big...I think I need the 1" or maybe even one size smaller than that (7/8" looks like it would be the best but I haven't found any that size yet). 3/4" looks like it would be too small:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192885&d=1701702018

toadster

12-04-2023, 01:13 PM

Here's the dash - I'll post more about this later along with a full breakdown of some of the modifications I had to do, but the main item is that I now have all the '65 Mustang switches mounted. I ended up sticking with the stock FFR headlight switch instead of the '65 mustang headlight switch, and I was able to modify the shaft and Mustang knob so it works (maintains 65 mustang knob appearance). But I am still using the '65 Mustang wiper knob (rotary), and heater knob (w/ FFR heater kit switch).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192883&d=1701701355

I got the battery installed (Optima Yellow Top 8071-167) - it's a Group D51 size and installed in the front mount location with the Breeze box. No issues with that:

love that dash setup! very nice!

dbo_texas

12-04-2023, 03:33 PM

Thanks - I got the inspiration from Lidodrip and a few others who've used the 65 mustang switches/knobs/bezels. They really look clean on this dash. Now I just need to figure out how to wire everything up!

dbo_texas

12-29-2023, 12:12 PM

I'm routing my rear harness, and I'd like to add some wires for a reverse light and reverse lockout.

For the reverse light:
I plan to use the reverse light function on my T56 transmission and already have the connector on the transmission (2-pin weather pack on the PS of near the front). Do I run +12V on ignition to one lead on the T56 reverse light connector, and then the other lead from that connector goes to the light in the back of the car? Then I would just attach the ground lead of the actual light to chassis ground? Is that the proper way to wire this?

The idea is that when you put the transmission into reverse, the reverse switch (on transmission) will close the circuit for +12V going to the reverse light. Just looking for confirmation before I add in my extra wires to the rear harness (will need to break out 2 wires ends in the area near the transmission connector).

For the reverse lockout:
I bought the reverse lockout from Forte's --> I need to see what needs to be routed for that connection as well (haven't researched it yet). I think there is a module (maybe a GPS? or maybe uses the speed sensor?) that I need to mount behind the dash, then run the connection up the trans tunnel to the dash. If anyone has bought/used the one from Mike Forte and can share details on how this works (i.e. the logic), please share! I will also go read the instructions that came with it :) Probably a good starting point.

Its Bruce

12-29-2023, 03:04 PM

It's just a NO switch, so 12V or ground will be enough to engage the reverse light(s).

dbo_texas

12-29-2023, 05:51 PM

It's just a NO switch, so 12V or ground will be enough to engage the reverse light(s).

OK perfect thanks that's what I thought. I think I'll bring 12V ignition power to the switch, then ground it at the light in the back of the car.

dbo_texas

12-29-2023, 05:57 PM

dbo_texas

02-05-2024, 10:36 PM

At this point I've spent the last couple of months working on the electrical. I'll do a few separate posts later once the electrical is completely finished, but for now I've modified all the harnesses and installed them in the car. I've also installed all the Coyote specific harnesses & ECU. This was the gating item preventing me from reinstalling the drivetrain, so with that out of the way, it was time to re-install. I prepped the engine bay by disconnecting the steering shaft to get it out of the way. I also disconnected my front brake hard lines where they mount to the F-panels. I might have been OK leaving them in place, but since I haven't bled the brakes yet I just disconnected them to push them out of the way. I then removed the battery from the Breeze box. I probably could have left it, but again, it was easy to remove and get it out of the way. Once I lifted the engine off of the FFR Coyote stand, I also did a quick test fit of both headers to make sure the bolt holes all lined up, and thankfully they did.

Prepping the transmission mount: I had a hell of a time finding the correct fasteners, and found that whoever installed the mount the first time used the wrong size fasteners. Looks like they used 7/16-14 bolts instead of the correct sized 1/2-13 bolts. Some of the threads were damaged, so I re-tapped both holes and then installed with the correct size bolts --> everything snugged up well so I think I'm good with the fasteners. I also removed the shifter assembly to make it easier to install into the frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195347&d=1707187979

Question: For those with my same combination (Coyote + T56), did you end up using the spacers with the trans mount? The FFR Coyote Fitment instructions don't show them, but the FFR Complete Kit instructions do show them. I'm not sure which one is correct for the Coyote + T56. I didn't install them, but I also ended up with a pretty big 1/2" gap between the trans mount and the A-frame after installing the engine. More questions on this later...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195350&d=1707188966

A-Frame Install: Also couldn't find these fasteners so went digging around in my parts bin and found the correct sized bolts and nuts. Install was no problem --> I installed it on TOP of the FFR frame tabs, but I've seen some folks say it may work better mounted below the tabs. So I may need to swap this - I need to study this more and figure out which will work best with my combo.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195348&d=1707188203

Engine Prep: Some of the work was already done by Forte, like the oil pan and oil filter nipple. The only think I really had to do was install the Vintage Gauge oil pressure sender and water temp sender. Had to dig around for quite a while to find the correct brass adapters, but ultimately got them both installed without too much trouble. I used Permatex high-temp thread sealant instead of Teflon tape (per FFR instructions) on the NPT threads for both.
Question: for the oil sender plug coming from the engine harness, will this be used at all or can it just get tucked away somewhere and secured?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195349&d=1707188512

Coyote Engine Mount Spacers: These 1/2" spacers come with the Coyote Install kit from FFR. No real issues with this, other than again having to dig around to find the correct fasteners (notice a trend here?). Overall, no problem with installing these per the instructions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195353&d=1707189514

Drivetrain Install: We used a 2-ton hoist with a leveler and extended the boom all the way out (on the 1/2 Ton setting). This allowed us to come in from the front. We had the back of the frame lifted on jacks, and the front end was sitting on tire dollies to lower it a little bit. This helped with getting the transmission over the radiator 3/4" frame bar at the front. From here, it was just a lot of small movements - one person to steer the transmission, one person to steer the hoist, and one person keeping an eye on clearances all around.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195354&d=1707189799

At this point the engine was about 2" above the mounts. So it was time to install the headers while you still have some amount of access.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195355&d=1707189799

dbo_texas

02-05-2024, 11:34 PM

I have the FFR Coyote Full Length stainless steel headers (p/n 16267). I've read that it's best to install these onto the engine when you are about 2-3 inches from seating the engine on the mounts. So with the engine/trans mostly installed, we gave it a go. The gaskets that came with the headers were folded in half in the box - not sure how that happened, but I didn't want to risk the crease causing any issues so I bought some new gaskets. We'll call it a $35 piece of mind purchase. I ended up going with some Remflex #3609 header gaskets as many others have used.

We started with the driver's side header. Before we installed the engine, I removed all 16 of the header studs that came installed on the engine. I decided to use all bolts instead, and I measured the thread size on the studs to be M10x1.5. To install the header, one person held the gasket in place, while a 2nd person placed the header over it and then got all the bolts started. For the bolts, I replaced the bolts provided by FFR and went with the Stage 8 #8914 locking bolts. These are great because they have a locking tab that you butt against the header tube, and then an little clip to hold it in place. This prevents the bolt from rotating counter-clockwise and loosening. Since these have locking hardware, I didn't use any Loctite but instead opted to use some anti-seize on them. Not sure if that was needed or not, but I don't think it could hurt to prevent some headaches in the future if I ever have to remove the bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195356&d=1707192149

Here you can see a closeup of the Stage 8 header bolt with the locking tab and clip.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195357&d=1707192149

Let me just say that I hope to God I did this correctly, because I don't ever want to have to remove and reinstall these headers. What a pain to install. On the DS especially, accessing the bolts is extremely difficult. I used everything in the toolbox (universal joint sockets, box end wrenches, extensions, etc). The FFR instructions do not give any recommendation on torque, so after doing some searching on this forum I found several recommendations to go with something in the 18-24 ft-lb range. I decided to go with 22 ft-lb. On the DS I could really only use the torque wrench on maybe 3 or 4 of the bolts, and on the PS probably 6 of them. For all the others, I used my finely calibrated hands to gauge how much to tighten them based on the ones I could access. Anyhow, I got them all installed. The PS was way easier to do vs. the driver side. All the bolts are more easily accessible on that side.

With the headers installed, I wanted to install the driveshaft IRS adapter and driveshaft. Once again, I had to go hunting for the correct bolts because they weren't with my adapter. After some digging, I ended up finding the correct bolts. They are socket head cap screws, size M10x25. I read on the forum that some 4 should be M10x20, and 6 should be M10x25, but all 10 of mine were M10x25 and they seem to work. The adapter uses 6 of these bolts going into the counterbore holes on the adapter and threading into the IRS joint. The remaining 4 are used to secure the driveshaft to the adapter. My adapter was the clear-zinc plated version, not the yellow-zinc one. I inserted the driveshaft before making the final engine push and this allowed me to get all the bolts installed. I didn't get any pictures of just the adapter installed on the IRS pumpkin, but the install was pretty straight forward. I torqued the bolts down per FFR instructions and applied some blue Loctite.

The driveshaft I have is FFR p/n 16038 (ROADSTER 31 SPLINE 8.375" DRIVESHAFT FOR 2015 IRS) which I'm pretty sure is the correct one for the Coyote + T56. After installing, it looks like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195358&d=1707192833

With both headers+gaskets on, and the driveshaft adapter and driveshaft installed, I went ahead and dropped the engine onto the mounts. This last 2 or 3 inches was quite difficult and I had to keep readjusting the transmission. I was finally able to get the mounting studs through the engine mount slots on both sides of the frame. Here's how both sides sit in the engine mounts:
Driver's side mount --> the stud is sitting about .375" above the bottom of the slot in the mount. Question: Does this look correct?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195359&d=1707193603

Here's the passenger side mount. It is seated at the bottom of the slot.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195360&d=1707193603

There are a few items I don't think look correct with my transmission mount and possibly the driveshaft, but I'll ask some questions about those in the next post. I haven't looked at the pinion angle or driveshaft angles yet --> I need to do some more research on what this should look like. As it stands, the driveshaft is pretty much straight between the pumpkin and trans and I know that isn't correct. So something is off.

Despite the issues w/ the transmission mount (to be detailed in future post), this still feels like a big accomplishment. With the engine back in, I think I can start reassembling a ton of items (radiator, hood hinges, coolant expansion tank, reservoirs, etc). Here's the final result:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195361&d=1707193942

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195362&d=1707193942

dbo_texas

02-06-2024, 12:56 PM

When I installed the drivetrain I found that I couldn't get the transmission mount to sit down on the A-frame. After some back and forth troubleshooting (detailed in THIS THREAD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48309-Help-needed-Gen2-Coyote-T56-IRS-install-trans-mount-and-clearance-questions)), here is a summary of what I found and how I fixed it.

1) T56 & A-Frame Interference & Fix:
It turns out the T56 transmission body was hitting the A-Frame, preventing it from seating all the way down on the transmission poly mount. After contacting FFR & some suggestions by Mike Everson, I determined that sometime after my kit was built (2019), FFR changed the A-frame design and shortened the plate spanning the two legs on the A-frame. You can see it very clearly here - my setup on the left (showing the T56 hitting the A-frame plate), and on the right is a picture FFR sent me of their current A-frame. I think Mike Everson said the A-frame was modified around the time The Tremec TKX came out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195681&d=1707946532

I'm not sure exactly how much they shortened it but it looks to be about 1.5-2" (using the FFR "5" logo as a gauge). I could have bought a new A-frame ($255+shipping), but instead I decided to modify my A-frame. I cut away 2" from the plate, then with the help of a neighbor we re-welded a strengthening flange back onto it. The flange was made from the piece we trimmed off the plate. This resolved the interference issue and allows the transmission to fully seat down onto the A-frame, all while retaining plenty of strength. Read the post linked above for details on the modification to the A-frame, but this is the result:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195833&d=1708396592

2) Driveline/Pinion Angles
Next up was the driveline angles. Based on THIS POST (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22594-Driveline-Setup-(aka-Pinion-Angle)) and THIS POST (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35320-Pinion-Angle-Yes-again), the 3 general criteria when setting up the driveline angles are:

Ideally, the pinion angle should be 1 degree or less
The operating angles on each end of the driveshaft should be equal to or within 1 degree of each other and have a 3 degree maximum operating angle
Have at least 1/2 of a degree continuous operating angle. Some definitions…

After fixing the A-frame and getting the transmission seated on the A-frame, I took measurements and found that while my pinion angle looked good, my two operating angles exceeded the 3° recommended angles. This is all captured in the A-frame post HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48309-Help-needed-Gen2-Coyote-T56-IRS-install-trans-mount-and-clearance-questions). To resolve this, I ended up removing the 0.4" cylindrical spacers and washers that FFR includes with the transmission mounting hardware. After removing them, I now meet all 3 criteria above for the driveline angles. Here are the resulting numbers with some reference images of how/where I took my angle measurements. I'm happy with these so I'm calling it good:
Measurements:

Frame: 0deg (reference)
Engine/Trans: -1.1° sloping down toward the rear
Driveshaft: -1.85° sloping down toward the rear
IRS pinion flange: -0.75° sloping down toward the rear
OA1 = 0.75°
OA2 = 1.1°
Pinion Angle = 0.35°

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195927&d=1708648937

dbo_texas

02-25-2024, 09:16 PM

After getting the driveline angles finalized, I went ahead and mounted the driveshaft safety loop. Like many others, I used Metco p/n MDL2500 (https://metcomotorsports.com/mdl2500) which seems to be a popular choice. Installation wasn't straight forward, due to the modifications I made to the A-frame detailed in THIS POST (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48309-Help-needed-Gen2-Coyote-T56-IRS-install-trans-mount-and-clearance-questions&p=549376&viewfull=1#post549376). The flange I welded didn't allow for enough space for the Metco mounting bracket. To resolve this, I had to cut off about 1.5" from the end of the Metco bracket. When mounting, I'm still able to get 4 bolts into the mounting side and I think that is just fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196064&d=1708912755

The other slight modification I needed to do was add about 0.25" of shim washers to raise the loop above the driveshaft and gain more clearance. Right now I have about 0.5" of radial clearance. This required longer bolts so I had to go out and buy some 3/8-16 x 1.25" bolts (Metco kit comes with 0.75" length). The u-joint going to the IRS pinion flange is still a little too close for comfort but does clear it. I'm not super happy using washers as shims, so I may find a better solution and re-do it. It's just the 4 bolts to release it so pretty easy to modify.

Here are some additional pics. This is using the super short driveshaft (FFR p/n 16038 - 31 SPLINE 2015 IRS 8.375" DRIVESHAFT). It doesn't really leave much room for error.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196060&d=1708912710

Here you can see the shim washers:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196061&d=1708912710

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196062&d=1708912710

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196059&d=1708912710

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196063&d=1708912710

Here's a quick little video showing the driveshaft rotating:

https://youtu.be/9kKYHlDo-0s

dbo_texas

04-08-2024, 10:59 AM

Got a few hours of work in over the weekend.

Safety Loop Modification
After the initial fitment, there were 2 changes I wanted to make. For the first, I wanted to shift the loop towards the front by about 3/8 inch to provide a little more clearance to the U-joint knuckles. To accomplish this, I needed to trim the front edge and elongate the mounting slots for the bolts. Used my angle grinder with cutoff wheel to make the long cut, then drilled new holes to extend the slots and used a Dremel cutoff wheel to clean up the slots. For the second update, I wanted to replace the washers I was using as spacers for the hoop with some solid aluminum spacers. I modeled these up in CAD then cut them on a laser cutter then painted them w/ epoxy paint. They turned out great and were a perfect fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197967&d=1712591154

Engine Lift Bracket Removal
Next up was to remove the Coyote lift brackets. This is where I ran into some trouble. I had read on another member's forum post that they ran into a problem removing one of the bolts --> there wasn't enough clearance to the Coyote header tube to back the bolt out. Well I ran into the same problem...I was aware of this but I didn't see the post until I already had the header installed and the engine in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197964&d=1712591154

The only way to cut this was with a multi-tool, but unfortunately for my build the hydroboost and steering shaft were in the way and I couldn't get the tool in. So I removed the steering shaft and unbolted the master cylinder from the front of the hydroboost, and this just barely gave me enough access to get the multitool in there.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197963&d=1712591154

I must have used some high strength alloy bolts because I chewed through (2x) nitrous carbide multi
-tool bits ($35) cutting the bolt, but I finally go it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197965&d=1712591154

Oil Filter Install
With the engine lift brackets removed, I went ahead and installed the low profile oil filter. I used Fram PH10060, but Mobil M1-113 or STP S10060 would also work from what I've read.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197966&d=1712591154

Triple Reservoir Re-Install
With the engine installed, I went ahead and reconnected my front brake lines and re-installed the triple reservoir. I had already made the mounting brackets and drilled the holes, so all I had to do was rivet the bracket onto the 3/4" frame and mount the hoses w/ hose clamps. Red hose goes to clutch, and the two black hoses go to the brakes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197968&d=1712591184

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197969&d=1712591184

dbo_texas

04-21-2024, 09:00 PM

I had a few hours of free time Saturday so decided to re-mount a bunch of the accessories. First thing I did was tighten the engine mount nuts to 60 ft-lbs. I couldn't find a spec for this but some folks on the FB page provided some recommendations in the 55-65 ft-lb range, so I split the difference.

Next up, I re-mounted the radiator. This went super quick since I was already familiar with how it mounts. I zeroed my angle finder on the bottom 4in frame tube, then taped it to the radiator and mounted it at the recommended 51°. While I was at it I went ahead and riveted the Breeze upper radiator mount hinge to the radiator. I had previously left that unmounted because I was on the fence about painting the radiator black. Since I'm not going with the chrome delete aesthetic any more, I went ahead and left the radiator as-is (unpainted). Here's the result:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198541&d=1713750119

Next up was the hood hinges. These also went on very quickly since I've mounted them previously. I left the nuts just barely tight because I know I'll need to adjust them when it comes time to fit the hood. For now the gas struts are just tied to the 3/4 frame tubes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198538&d=1713750119

After this, I re-mounted the Mishimoto coolant expansion tank. 3 screws to mount it, and done.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198539&d=1713750119

I really like the sight tube on the side of this tank.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198540&d=1713750119

After this, I went ahead and riveted down the Coyote PCM mounting bracket to the 3/4" frame tubes. I had been holding this on with clecos but I see no reason not to go ahead and mount it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198537&d=1713750119

NEXT STEP: trans tunnel shifter hole

dbo_texas

04-21-2024, 09:46 PM

I've been wanting to go ahead and cut the hole the FF Metal transmission tunnel that I bought. Before I re-installed the drivetrain, I crawled under the car and traced out the 3/4" frame cross members so I had some reference points. After taking some measurements with the drivetrain installed in its final location, I marked and drilled a pilot hole where the center of the shifter is located, then drilled out a 2-1/2" hole for the shifter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198542&d=1713750133

After mounting to the trans tunnel, the hole is a little off and I think I'll end up growing the size of the hole to about 3" to make sure I have plenty of room for clearance in all gears. Should be covered easily with the boot and trim ring. But otherwise looks pretty good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198543&d=1713750133

I still need to figure out which cup holders I'm going with - maybe the billet ones from Eddie Motorsports (MS281-43P) and cut the holes for those. After I do that, and the E-brake final mounting, I'll send this trans tunnel top off to a local upholsterer and have them cover it with the same saddle leather as my seats and door cards.

dbo_texas

05-08-2024, 02:18 PM

I worked on the e-brake handle mounting a bit recently but wanted to run this by the forum to see if anyone can point out any issues/concerns with the current approach. I'm moving this to the top of the tunnel due to the Tremec T56 interfering with the stock location on the side. The '65 Coup mounts the handle in this location and basically does away with the "L" brackets typically used to mount the handle. I followed some reference images from edwardB's coupe build thread (HERE) and this is what I came up with.

-drilled (3x) Ø5/16 holes through top of trans tunnel frame member on passenger side (used e-brake gear tooth bracket as template for hole locations/spacing)
-used (3x) 5/16-18 x 2.5" hex bolts to mount e-brake gear tooth bracket
-spaced the e-brake gear tooth bracket off the 3/4" frame tube using (2x) 3/8 hex nuts (the ID is just slightly larger than the 5/16 bolts so they work perfectly)
-secured with (3x) nyloc nuts

As far as I can tell, there is plenty of clearance to the transmission and the dash with this location. Looks like the cable routing is a straight show from the stock routing bracket in the rear of the tunnel to the piece attached to the handle.

TO DO:
-remove parts and epoxy spray paint for corrosion protection
-cut cables shorter and crimp on new stop sleeves to work with new handle location
-test

Video walkthrough of my setup:
https://youtu.be/kmKLxEtgYq0?si=U3hl3Lq5waXukIRZ

And here are some image --> please comment if you see any issues with this approach. Very easy to move/change it at this point.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199144&d=1715195044

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199142&d=1715195044

I have the FF Metal trans tunnel and already checked - there is enough clearance over the 5/16 hex bolt heads so they won't be visible. I may need to ditch the washer under the head, but that's no big deal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199141&d=1715195044

Top view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199143&d=1715195044

Its Bruce

05-08-2024, 05:13 PM

dbo_texas

05-08-2024, 09:00 PM

Are you okay with those hex heads on the side? Are you planning to carpet over them? You'll have to clearance the tunnel cover. Button cap screws may be a bit less noticeable under carpet / tunnel cover.

I will do a quick check but i'm using the FF Metal trans cover which has a little extra clearance on the sides. I think there is room for the thickness of the hex head, but the diameter of the washer I used may show slightly under the lip of the tunnel cover. So I may remove the washer but the hex head won't be visible.

dbo_texas

05-26-2024, 07:50 PM

After temporary mounting, I went ahead and disassembled the handle parts and spray painted an epoxy coating on them for corrosion protection. I left the teeth of the gear raw steel as that is going to wear away anyway.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199897&d=1716770934

Next up, I re-installed the handle and measured how much to shorten the e-brake cables. I unscrewed the adjuster sleeve so I had about 1/4" of thread engagement and had plenty of threads left to tighten if needed. I marked the cables with blue painters tape, and cut them using a Dremel cutoff wheel. The cable stays together fine (didn't fray).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199898&d=1716770934

Next up, I needed to crimp new stop sleeves onto the cables. I used a blade to cut back the vinyl coating off the cables, then crimped the sleeve using this crimper I borrowed from a neighbor. I was planning to use the double sleeve and loop the cable around, but I couldn't get this crimper to work well with the double sleeve, plus it was too large to fit in the FFR saddle. So I went with the single stop sleeve. I put a dab of red Loctite onto the cable, then slid the stop sleeve over it and crimped it down. I tested a crimp on one of the pieces I cut off first, and I did some very rough hard pulls on the stop and the sleeve didn't budge, so I think it will hold (time will tell).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199896&d=1716770934

After crimping, this is what it looks like mounted into the saddle. I ended up tightening the turnbuckle to take up a little bit more slack in the cable:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199900&d=1716770934

I did a couple of test pulls on the e-brake handle and it seems to work as intended. After locking up I can't turn the rear wheels, but the real test will be when I get it onto the ground and test it on a slope. But for now, I'm calling it good.

Video walkthrough:

https://youtu.be/cpCK_hI67XM

dbo_texas

05-26-2024, 08:09 PM

After finalizing the e-brake handle and getting it operational, it was time to cut the obround hole in the trans tunnel for the e-brake handle. I measured carefully and played around with the position of the trim ring until I liked it. I sort of aligned it to be even with the round shifter trim ring, then marked the holes and center of the slot. I think I used a 1.5" hole saw to cut the two ends, then used a jigsaw to cut the sides of the obround hole.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199901&d=1716771719

Here are some more images (handle down / handle up):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199904&d=1716771719

Here's what it looks like with the trim rings:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199902&d=1716771719

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199903&d=1716771719

Finally, the screws used for the FFR shifter trim and the Lokar e-brake trim are different. The FFR shifter trim uses thread-cutting sheet metal screws. The Lokar e-brake trim uses M5 (metric) screws. I decided to use 10-24 stainless steel machine screws for both so they would at least match. To do this, I installed 10-24 rivet nuts into the trans tunnel top so the screws could thread directly in. The rivet nuts hit the 3/4 frame tube below in 3 spots, so I just drilled a hole where they were hitting to clear the rivet nuts - this seems to work just fine. Now both trim rings mount with the same matching screws, and mount solely to the tunnel top.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199906&d=1716771738

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199905&d=1716771719

NEXT UP:

Cut holes for billet cup holders (needed to buy a Ø3.5" hole saw - using Eddie Motorsports MS281-43P (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMS-MS281-43P) billet cupholders from Summit Racing); you can see them 2 pics up and where I plan to install them
Send tunnel top off to upholsterer to coat with the leather that matches the seats and door cards

dbo_texas

05-26-2024, 08:21 PM

After relocating the e-brake handle, I needed to patch up the hole in the PS of the transmission tunnel where the original mounting location is. I made a cardboard template:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199907&d=1716772687

Next I used a Sharpie marker, spare aluminum, jigsaw and tin snips to cut the new part. To bend the bottom edge, I just clamped it between two 2x4's and hammered the tab over. Worked great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199908&d=1716772687

Here's the finished product after applying silicone & riveting:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199909&d=1716772687

I'll probably hit this with some of the epoxy spray paint I've been using before putting down the sound/heat insulation and carpeting:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199910&d=1716772687

dbo_texas

06-03-2024, 09:02 PM

I finally attempted to bleed the hydraulic clutch & brake circuits this weekend. Let's just say it didn't go according to plan.

I started off by bench bleeding the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch circuit. This worked just fine --> I ran a 1/4" ID PVC tube from the output of the Wilwood master cylinder back to the clutch reservoir, and slowly pumped the pedal to push fluid through the cylinder until there were no more bubbles in the line. I pinched off the hose each time I released the pedal pressure in order to not draw air back into the system, and then released the kink in the hose with every pedal push, going slowly and making sure the reservoir didn't run dry. This process worked fine and got all the bubbles out of the master cylinder.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200272&d=1717465000

Next I disconnected the hose, and connected the braided stainless hydraulic clutch line which I had already attached to the slave cylinder. After attaching a hose to the slave bleeder, I cracked it open and did the pedal-push method to get all the air out of the line. With every release of the pedal, I closed the bleeder to prevent air coming back up through the bleeder hose. Kept doing this until no more bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. Closed the bleeder valve for good after several pedal pushes with no bubbles. All good so far.

Here's where things started to go wrong. After closing the bleeder, I pushed on the pedal expecting it to be somewhat firm, and slowly it kept moving down and felt soft. After closer inspection, I found that there is fluid slowly leaking around the fitting going into the slave cylinder. It only leaks under pedal pressure. There's a video below, but after talking to the shop that this came from, I have a good suspicion about what he issue is (more on this later).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200273&d=1717465040

Video of the leak (https://youtu.be/fu5LTiz346A?si=RCYcpzx7b0DzJdWF)

After this, I decided to try my luck at the hydroboost brakes. I started by setting it up to bench bleed the master cylinder. Same setup as the clutch - I ran 2 tubes from the outputs of the master cylinder back into the front & rear brake reservoirs. Here's what this setup looks like (using 1/4" ID PVC hose):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200274&d=1717465253

However, as soon as I filled either reservoir, brake fluid started gushing from the banjo connections on the master cylinder. This is without any pedal pressure - just leaking like crazy from the banjo connector. It looked like fluid was gushing from both sides of the fitting where the crush washers were. I've never used banjo fittings and didn't assemble these, so I had no idea what to expect or how these fitting are supposed to work. The immediate reaction from the Facebook group was that the banjo crush washers weren't sealing properly and it sure looks like that is the case.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200276&d=1717465502

Brake hydroboost master cylinder banjo fitting leak:

https://youtu.be/mfrWeBWRHIA?si=zkp8RJd2FfEAYtlL

TROUBLESHOOTING: After reaching out to the component supplier, I think I have a pretty good idea what's going on with both the hydraulic clutch fitting AND the banjo fittings on the brake master cylinder. Sounds like for the setup I have, the vendor typically shortens the fittings by about 1mm because at the default length they bottom out and prevent full seating/sealing. By shortening the fitting (or banjo bolt) slightly, it allows them to thread in a little deeper and full seal. Sounds like maybe these fittings didn't get modified prior to assembly. I don't have the full history on these parts since I got my kit from another builder, but I believe that is what's going on after studying both leaks.

So this will be my next step - drain the clutch circuit, remove the fitting in the slave cylinder, shorting by about 1mm and then re-install and re-bleed the system. For the banjos, the brake circuit is already drained (all over the garage floor - lesson learned - put a catch pan under that). So I just need to remove the banjo bolts and shorten them slightly, then retighten everything down and try to bench bleed the master again. IF that is successful, I can try bleeding all 4 brakes after that.

dbo_texas

06-10-2024, 11:55 AM

While waiting for some new fittings to resolve the brake & clutch leaks, I decided to knock out the final change on the transmission tunnel which was to mount the cup holders.

I had previously traced the tunnel cross brace locations on the bottom side of the trans tunnel. I debated where to actually place the cup holders. I wanted them to be symmetric in the tunnel, but the only place to do that is under the dash. Any other locations in the tunnel would have had to be staggered to avoid the cross-braces or T56 transmission body underneath. So I settled on placing them under the dash, which means I won't be able to put a very large cup in them. It easily holds 12oz cans and some smaller thermos style cups, just not really tall ones.

The cup holders I used are from Summit, Eddie Motorsports Billet Aluminum Drink Holders MS281-43P. I had previously bought a cheap pair from Amazon, but I saw these in Lidodrip's build and they look way better.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200590&d=1718038074

And here's the final location:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200591&d=1718038074

Now that the transmission tunnel has all the holes cut in it, I'm ready to send this off to an upholstery shop to install the leather matching my seats. I do plan to add diamond stitch also.

dbo_texas

06-10-2024, 11:59 AM

While killing time waiting for some other parts to fix the leak in the brake & clutch circuits, I decided to mount both footbox blowers. I'll do a full writeup on this once I get the blast gates, hoses & electrical complete, but for now I have the two blowers mounted. I used M6 rivet nuts on the F-panels for mounting. I may need to shift the DS location slightly - I'm worried the hose coming off the blower will not clear the hydroboost master cylinder, so I may need to shift it forward a few inches to give me more room to make the job around the hydroboost.

Driver Side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200588&d=1718038074

Passenger Side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200589&d=1718038074

dbo_texas

06-20-2024, 09:37 PM

The fix for the hydraulic clutch fitting ended up being pretty simple. After draining that circuit and removing the port on the slave cylinder, I inspected the aluminum crush washer an noticed the indentation from the port seating was off-center.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200833&d=1718937057

I got a new copper crush washer, re-installed it with no other modifications, and was able to successfully bleed the clutch circuit. I did re-bleed the Wilwood master cylinder prior to bleeding the clutch line. But it holds pressure and doesn't leak. The pedal does feel pretty damn stiff though....I'll have to play with it more after I clear out some junk from the driver's seat and see if it is too much pressure or if it just feels that way doing it with my hand. I confirmed with the supplier that I have the correct master cylinder size for my setup (13/16").

I also received the new banjo bolts from supplier for the hydroboost master cylinder. They added a big chamfer to the inlet port (to theoretically clear the port inside the master cylinder).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200834&d=1718937253

Unfortunately this didn't do the trick. They didn't modify the length of the bolt at all, and the bolt was still bottoming out in the master cylinder before the bolt could squeeze the banjo fitting and crush washers. I took out the Dremel and cut off about 3mm from both banjo bolts and re-drilled the chamfer on the port opening using a center drill. This did the trick and I was able to successfully clamp the fitting and crush washers. I also added some Permatex liquid thread sealant just to be safe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200826&d=1718936099

Then I re-did the bench bleed on the hydroboost master cylinder (both front & rear together).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200828&d=1718936099

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200827&d=1718936099

Then I started bleeding the rear passenger side brake caliper (farthest from the master). I used my vacuum bleeder kit because it worked pretty well on the clutch slave. I have the Wilwood IRS brake setup, so I started with the outboard bleeder valve (per Wilwood instructions). On the rear brakes, there are 2 bleeder valves you need to bleed. However, I wasn't ever able to get it to stop producing bubbles. After inspecting the connections on the rear circuit, I fount a small puddle under the 3-way connection in the trunk area where the brake lines split to the left and right sides of the car. I tried tightening all the fittings, but it just keeps leaking from where the aluminum fitting goes into the brass Tee fitting. I think my only recourse is to drain the circuit, remove the fittings, and use some liquid thread seal on that fitting to see if that does the trick. ANY OTHER ADVICE ON THIS BEFORE I PROCEED?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200829&d=1718936099

dbo_texas

07-07-2024, 06:59 PM

I left off with a leak on the rear "tee" connection. To fix this, I just drained the rear circuit and completely removed the brass "tee", cleaned everything up, and re-assembled. Per the advice of someone on the Facebook group (Factory Five Builder), they suggested for every brake connection to tighten it, then loosen it, then tighten it and do this one more time (for total of 3 tighten cycles). I followed the advice, and low and behold no more leak. Go figure.

Next up, I had my 2 favorite helpers (12yr & 9 yr) give me a hand with the brakes. The 12yr old was working the pedal and the 9yr old was keeping an eye on the reservoir fluid levels and notified me when I needed to top them off.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201533&d=1720395742

We filled the reservoirs, re-bled the master cylinder (on the hydroboost), and then let the system gravity bleed for a bit. Next I had the 12yr old pump the brake and hold, then I cracked the bleeder, then closed it and she let off the pedal. We followed the Wilwood instructions and did the PS rear upper outboard bleeder first, then the upper inboard bleeder. Then did the DS rear, then PS front (single upper bleeder), then finally DS front (single upper bleeder). After all this, there were no leaks found, and all the bleeders were pumping fluid with no bubbles. However, the pedal still wasn't firm and was still going all the way to the floor. The pads also weren't gripping the rotors. It felt like there was air still trapped in the circuits somewhere. I posted to another thread on the forum HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49392-HELP-PLEASE!-Brake-bleeding-problems-Hydroboost-Wilwood-setup), and got some great suggestions.

In the end, I didn't want to spend another day building a DIY pressure bleeder, and Henry Renaud (65 Cobra Dude on the forum) suggested to try this method instead:
-with bleeder closed, 6 pumps of the pedal and hold on the 6th push
-with pedal pressure applied, crack bleeder and let air bubbles out
-close bleeder
-repeat several times, filling reservoir as needed

Today we tried this method, and sure enough it seems to have worked. We got a lot more air out of the system on each corner, and slowly got a firm pedal. After we were finished, we held pedal pressure for about 3 minutes and it stayed firm. I checked for leaks and so far so good. Finally, with the car up on jacks we spun the wheels and confirmed they lock up when the pedal is applied. I'll check everything again in a few days just to confirm no leaks and everything is working as intended, but for now I think the brakes are FINALLY done.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201532&d=1720395742

dbo_texas

07-12-2024, 03:46 PM

I'm almost to the point where I'm ready to fill all the fluids. I still need to hook up some plumbing lines before I can fill, but wanted to run my plans by the group for input. Let me know if you see any issues with my plans below. I have a couple of questions sprinkled in as well.

Engine Oil (Gen2 Coyote w/Moroso Pan):

I think I need about 8-10 quarts (FFR instructions say 8 quarts, some on the forum reported this combo took 10)
Planning ot use Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-20

Coolant:

I think I need 3-4 gallons of any Dex-Cool antifreeze - I'm just planning daily driving so I imaging any store bought stuff should work fine

Power steering (KRC Coyote Setup):

power steering alone needs 1.5 quarts (1.4L) I think, but with the hydroboost I'm guessing I need more? Anyone with this combo have a recommendation on total volume needed?
I'm planning to use the Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid 08206-9002 which seems to pretty much be what everyone uses.

Transmission (Tremec T56 TUET11010):

Instructions say it takes about 7.5 pints (~4.1 quarts)
I am a little confused on what to use here. These are some options I've seen based on other build threads, and there are different price points here ($6.99/quart - $20/quart). Here are some different options I'm considering - would love some input on which of these might be good to use (preferably something easy to get from auto store):
GM Synchromesh - Is this the same as the ACDelco 769476 GM OEM 10-4006 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid?
Pennzoil Synchromesh
Mobil 1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) - recommended in the Tremec tech bulletin
Tremec HP MTF oil - this is the one the T56 service manual recommends, but its hard to get so I don't plan on using it
Any Dexron-III fluid - also recommended in T56 service manual. I read on someone's thread that anything above Dexron-III will also work. Is that accurate?
Valvoline Dexron VI/Mercon LV ATF 822405

Differential (2018 IRS)

I read in the instructions this needs about 1.65 quarts. I've also seen a lot of discussion on the forum that some were pre-filled with oil, some partially filled, and some didn't have any oil at all. Mine is form 2019 and I haven't checked if it has oil yet. I plan to crack the drain plug and check. If it does have oil, I'll see if I can smell the friction modifier was added. If it has both, I plan to just top it off. If not, I'll use the recommended Motorcraft combo from the FFR instructions most likely
4oz Motorcraft® Additive Friction Modifier (U.S.) XL-3 (U.S.) (EST-M2C118-A)
3.15-3.3 pints (~1.5L or <2 quarts) Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL (WSS-M2C942-A)
I saw some discussion on the forum that heavier oils can be used here instead of the Motorcraft combo. Something like Valvoline SynPower SAE 75W-140 Full Synthetic Gear Oil which already has the friction modifier added. Can anyone confirm if this is a suitable alternative to the Motorcraft combo which I think you have to get at a Ford dealer?

Brakes & hydraulic clutch

I already filled these using Liqui Moly DOT 4 Brake Fluid. 1L bottle was plenty to fill both.

edwardb

07-12-2024, 08:15 PM

Power steering (KRC Coyote Setup):
power steering alone needs 1.5 quarts (1.4L) I think, but with the hydroboost I'm guessing I need more? Anyone with this combo have a recommendation on total volume needed?
I'm planning to use the Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid 08206-9002 which seems to pretty much be what everyone uses.

I had conversations with KRC with mine during the Coupe build. Explained I typically used the Honda power steering fluid. They recommended against it. I don't recall the specific reason. Of course they recommended their fluid. Since it doesn't take much, I followed their guidance and ordered some from Summit. Would be worth a phone call IMO.

Transmission (Tremec T56 TUET11010):

Instructions say it takes about 7.5 pints (~4.1 quarts)
I am a little confused on what to use here. These are some options I've seen based on other build threads, and there are different price points here ($6.99/quart - $20/quart). Here are some different options I'm considering - would love some input on which of these might be good to use (preferably something easy to get from auto store):
GM Synchromesh - Is this the same as the ACDelco 769476 GM OEM 10-4006 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid?
Pennzoil Synchromesh
Mobil 1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) - recommended in the Tremec tech bulletin
Tremec HP MTF oil - this is the one the T56 service manual recommends, but its hard to get so I don't plan on using it
Any Dexron-III fluid - also recommended in T56 service manual. I read on someone's thread that anything above Dexron-III will also work. Is that accurate?
Valvoline Dexron VI/Mercon LV ATF 822405

When I did mine several years ago, the Tremec instructions for T-56 were Dexron III / Mercon Spec ATF. I used Valvoline Dexron-III / Mercon. Standard parts store item.

dbo_texas

07-13-2024, 08:04 PM

I had conversations with KRC with mine during the Coupe build. Explained I typically used the Honda power steering fluid. They recommended against it. I don't recall the specific reason. Of course they recommended their fluid. Since it doesn't take much, I followed their guidance and ordered some from Summit. Would be worth a phone call IMO.

When I did mine several years ago, the Tremec instructions for T-56 were Dexron III / Mercon Spec ATF. I used Valvoline Dexron-III / Mercon. Standard parts store item.

Thanks for the feedback Paul. I may go with the Valvoline Dexron-III / Mercon for the transmission since it's easy to get. I'll dig a little on the KRC power steering fluid question but may just get the KRC fluid from Summit as suggested.

dbo_texas

07-23-2024, 09:21 AM

I noticed after bleeding the brakes that the brake pads on all 4 rotors drag just slightly. On the front DS it's enough to put marks on the black paint on the rotor. I've been told this black paint will rub off after bedding the brakes - I assume Wilwood paints the rotors as a form of corrosion protection? As this is my first build, I wasn't sure if this is typical or is something is off. I've got the Wilwood brakes installed. It looks similar front and rear, although on the rear its a little more difficult to tell how much drag because of the differential. In the rear, it also looks like the emergency brake pads also slightly rub the rotor even with no tension on the cable. But the pivot arm is against the hard-stop nub in the caliper housing, so I don't think this is an issue.

I posted to the Facebook group (Factory Five Builder) and got many comments from some experienced builders that this is typical/common to have the pads in contact with the rotor, and that after bedding the pads the slight dragging may go away. My plan for now is to let it be and just keep an eye on it after bedding the brakes. I did re-bleed the system yesterday one more time just to make sure there was no air (and there wasn't).
Here's a video showing the dragging:

https://youtu.be/qKbVKemT0rk?si=99iMgKJZcKt8FUMH

Not sure if anyone can make out any issues from these pictures, but the rotor does appear to be centered between the pads. Before I bled the brakes, the pads were not touching and the rotor was perfectly centered, and in the front at least they would spin freely. Only after bleeding did the slight dragging start.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202140&d=1721743849

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202141&d=1721743849

Hydroboost Question:
While messing with the brakes I also noticed the two ports on the top of my hydroboost master cylinder look almost like they are pushed upwards slightly. I'm not familiar with the hydroboost system - can anyone tell me is this normal? Do these just simply push down into the MC, or do they thread down into it?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202139&d=1721743849

edwardb

07-23-2024, 10:43 AM

The black finish on the Wilwood rotors (whatever it is) will wear off as you use and bed the brakes. As long as you have them centered (looks like you do) there’s nothing else to do. 100% normal for disc brakes to drag slightly when at rest. Jack your DD up and spin one of the tires. You will hear a slight scraping sound of the pad against the rotor. Same thing here.

dbo_texas

08-19-2024, 08:33 PM

I modified the upper radiator hose. I used a Motorcraft KM-5114 hose for 2012 F150. As others have done, I used a 1/8 Dremel bit to add a 2nd notch to the inside of the hose collar. This allows you to rotate the hose about 10-15° counterclockwise and gain some clearance off of the belt. This mod is very easy - I'd recommend everyone do it. Here are some before/after shots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202938&d=1724117056

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202939&d=1724117056

And here's the routing from the engine to upper radiator. I plan to use the Gates Gates PowerGrip 1-3/4 Inch To 2 Inch Hose Clamp (32948) for both the upper & lower radiator hose connections.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202940&d=1724117056

dbo_texas

08-19-2024, 08:49 PM

FFR ships a 2-way valve, but the Coyote requires constant coolant flow through the heads. I replaced the 2-way valve with a 4-way valve from Amazon (Four Season 74809 (https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74809-Heater-Valve/dp/B000C2QSVQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=31LYDLWI77HP7&keywords=74809&qid=1681844809&sprefix=74809%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-1)) which is what Ducky2009 used on his build. I just removed the diaphragm from the valve (not needed to spring-load the valve).

Here is the CAD drawing for the bracket. I printed out 1:1 size, and traced it onto some scrap aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202941&d=1724117955

Here' s the bracket after I folded it up. Just held it in my vice and worked the folds with a hammer. Easy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202942&d=1724117955

Added some 10-32 rivnuts to the firewall to mount the bracket:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202943&d=1724117955

Then mounted the valve assembly to the bracket:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202944&d=1724117955

Here is what it looks like with the hoses routed from the heater core. I painted the bracket with epoxy paint before mounting.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202945&d=1724117955

Still to do:

Figure out how to route the pull-cable from the dash
Make 2nd bracket to hold the cable (I plan to cut the end of the 2-way valve that ships from Vintage Air - it has a nice clamp to hold the cable in place); I'll probably use the same mounting rivnuts for the 2nd bracket. The pull cable is very stiff and I have the switch mounted on the lower bumpout of the carbon fiber dash which puts it at a bad angle (pointing down), so I have some work to do to figure out routing of this pull cable.
Route other set of hoses to PS & DS heater ports on the engine - I plan to route it just like Ducky2009 did on his build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1083&attachmentid=96861) - looks clean.

dbo_texas

08-24-2024, 10:04 PM

I went out and bought all the oils and fluids for the car, so this weekend I spent some time filling the rear differential, transmission, and engine with the appropriate oils. Here is what I used:

Differential (2015 IRS): Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL (WSS-M2C942-A) --> My transmission already has some oil in it, so all I did was top it off. Based on the smell, I'm pretty sure it already had the recommended 4oz of friction modifier (Motorcraft XL-3) so I didn't add any more of that. I only needed to a little over 1/2 quart before it started spilling out the fill hole.
Transmission: Valvoline DEX/MERC ATF (DEXRON-III / MERCRON - Tremec recommends any DEXRON-III automatic transmission fluid. Mine was dry, and it took about 3.75 quarts before it started spilling out the fill hole.
Engine (Coyote Gen II): Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-20 --> I bought 2 of the big 5 quart jugs and used a total of 9.5 quarts

DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL
Starting with the rear differential, last week I found that the fill plug was completely mangled by whomever installed it previously. I had a hard time getting it out with the 1/2" square ratchet driver, but eventually it broke free. I ended up buying a new plug on Amazon, but not the OEM 1/2" square hole style. I couldn't find that part anywhere except ordering direct from a Ford dealership (P/N 390943S101 (https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/differential-drain-plug-transmission-oil-level-plug-1-2-x-14-rear-p-390943s101?pdp=y)). Would have been about $25 for the part and shipping. Turns out this diff uses a 1/2-14 NPT plug size with built in magnet to grab any floating metal shavings. I ended up buying a replacement on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085S7WCRD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) which had an external 1/2" drive, but it works just as well and only cost me about $8 with free shipping. This part works just fine and you can see new new plug at the top:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203112&d=1724553329

To fill the differential, I used a Slippery Pete (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRYS3RG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) fluid pump purchased from Amazon for $11. I could have rigged something DIY up, but for $11 I got 2 pumps which I used the other one for the transmission. So I hit the easy button. It screws right onto the quart bottles, and comes with the hoses. You just pump/fill until the transmission fluid starts spilling out of the fill port. As mentioned before, my differential already had some oil, so I only added about 1/2 quart.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203111&d=1724553329

TRANSMISSION FLUID
On this one, the plugs were fine so I just unscrewed the upper fill plug, and used the other Slippery Pete hand pump to fill the transmission. It took about 3.75 quarts before spilling out the port.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203116&d=1724553412

ENGINE OIL
My engine is a new crate engine but it was purchased by the original build from Forte's back in 2019. So it's been sitting for quite a while. I decided to play it safe and prime the engine with oil vs. just pouring it into the normal oil fill. This has been discussed/debated a bit on the forum as to whether it is necessary, but personally I think its worth the $13 investment. Shout out to JohnK's Build Thread (Post #212) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(Nice-shoutout-on-Insta-about-my-build)&p=468608&viewfull=1#post468608) for documenting (and also answering my questions via PM). You basically use a cheap $11 garden sprayer with a 1/8 NPT - 3/16 barb adapter on the end. Screw that into the oil sender unit port on the DS of the engine, and manually pump 5 quarts of oil into the engine. This forces oil up into the oil filter as well as all the oil galleys in the engine. After priming with 5 quarts, let pressure out of garden sprayer and remove the hose and replace the oil pressure sender unit. Only about an ounce of oil spilled out the pressure sender port when I unscrewed the hose, so it wasn't too messy. Then, I filled the additional 4.5 quarts via traditional method, bringing the total to 9.5 quarts. I used the dipstick to verify it was at the FULL line. Here's a couple of photos:

Had some trouble getting the oil sender plug removed --> used a crow-foot adapter + ratchet and was able to get it off:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203114&d=1724553329

Here's the garden sprayer setup used:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203115&d=1724553329

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203113&d=1724553329

NEXT UP:

Back to the heater hoses --> will add the other 2 hoses to the engine heads, clamp & add mesh loom around them to clean them up a bit
Connecting the coolant hoses and Coyote intake items
Finish the heater bypass valve choke wire bracket
Back to electrical to test all circuits

dbo_texas

09-27-2024, 06:16 PM

Lidodrip

09-29-2024, 05:54 PM

I'm about ready to start building my own PTFE braided stainless power steering hoses, but wanted to confirm my setup first. I have the Coyote PS setup from FFR, P/N 16473 with KRC PS pump/reservoir married to a Forte Hydroboost and I plan to add a Mishimoto 10-fin oil cooler too. I "think" I have all the plumbing mostly figured out. I'm following Lidodrip's design for the most part (as he helped layout HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49797-KRC-power-steering-with-hydroboost-how-much-fluid-needed-to-fill&p=564371&viewfull=1#post564371)). He joined the hydroboost & PS rack returns with a Y-adapter and converted to 10AN hoses after the Y-adapter to go into the oil cooler and on to the reservoir. I have a few questions and looking for input. If there are ways to simplify, I'm all ears. Looks like I'm about to spend a fortune on AN adapters and hoses ;)

Questions:

Is it OK to go to 6AN or 8AN hoses on the returns AFTER the Y-adapter instead of 10AN? Or do I need the 10AN size because I'm joining (2x) 6AN lines together?
If sticking w/ 10AN hoses on the return (after the Y-adapter), I'd need to convert to 6AN female to screw onto the KRC reservoir. Does anyone know if you can get a 6AN female hose end on a 10AN hose? Or do you need to use a 10AN hose w/ female 10AN connector mated to a 10AN male to 6AN female adapter?
For MK4, are there recommended adapters on the PS rack that work best to prevent interference w/ the frame X-tube? The FFR kit comes w/ 6AN male adapters for the PS rack but I wasn't sure if angled adapters on the ends of the hoses work best for routing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204534&d=1727478665

Your diagram is exactly how I ran my lines. You are correct - there are a lot of fittings, but it does look pretty cool once everything is connected. I bought my power steering system through FFR and I believe they included the 6AN adapters for the rack (their lines, which I didn't use, were also 6AN). I used 10AN lines for the cooler circuit because the cooler has 10AN fittings, it makes sense from a flow perspective (two 6AN lines into one 10AN), and the 10AN lines look like the right size aesthetically. I did find a 90 degree 10AN to 6AN fitting that I used to connect at the KRC pump reservoir return. I also ended up using two 6AN U shaped connectors - one at the PS rack and one at the Y adapter. Good luck!

James

dbo_texas

10-06-2024, 12:18 PM

I finally finished up all the plumbing for the coolant system. I'm plumbing this using a Mishimoto coolant expansion tank (p/n MMRT-MUS-15EBK) and the plumbing mimics the OEM Mustang setup.

Ford OEM coolant system (reference) - I found this to be very helpful with understanding the cooling system plumbing needed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204919&d=1728233063

Here's an overview of all the parts used --> these are images from another builder's thread that I highlighted the hoses (during my planning phases), with pictures down below of my actual build. I highly recommend the Mishimoto Mustang Hose Kit (https://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-silicone-coolant-hose-kit-1517gt.html?fbclid=IwAR0PaxiPADcIrN8ktxvEfpNRD6_9g CXybudunSMB7d-h8QKw1fDdKARRcFI) because it comes with several of the hoses which I had a very hard time sourcing individually. Good quality kit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188216&d=1691013329

Parts list:
#1 - FR3Z-8C289-B (or maybe FR3Z-8C289-C which is the replacement) --> I couldn't find anywhere, but it comes included in the Mishimoto Mustang Hose Kit (https://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-silicone-coolant-hose-kit-1517gt.html?fbclid=IwAR0PaxiPADcIrN8ktxvEfpNRD6_9g CXybudunSMB7d-h8QKw1fDdKARRcFI)
#2 - FR3Z-8075-C - found at Tasca (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-overflow-hose-fr3z8075f?c=az0x), but also comes in the Mishimoto Mustang Hose Kit (https://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-silicone-coolant-hose-kit-1517gt.html?fbclid=IwAR0PaxiPADcIrN8ktxvEfpNRD6_9g CXybudunSMB7d-h8QKw1fDdKARRcFI)
#3 - FR3Z-8C289-B or -C or -D (newer versions) - could not find anywhere, but comes in the Mishimoto Mustang Hose Kit (https://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-silicone-coolant-hose-kit-1517gt.html?fbclid=IwAR0PaxiPADcIrN8ktxvEfpNRD6_9g CXybudunSMB7d-h8QKw1fDdKARRcFI)
#4 - DG9Z-8100-A - found at Summit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-rs531) and many other places
#5 - CL3Z-8260-A or KM-5114 - 2012 F150 upper radiator hose - bought mine on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-KM-5114-Upper-Radiator-Hose/dp/B009TKKU0W?&linkCode=sl1&tag=cobradreams-20&linkId=0fa36b25525666c172f85e971630adf7&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl) but can be found at many places. *Note - if using KRC power steering pump + pulley, you will need to add another notch in the engine side of the hose connection to be able to clock it correctly (see POST #192 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=561805&viewfull=1#post561805)).
#6 - FFR #16872 Lower Radiator Hose - this came with my kit...might have been included w/ the Coyote stuff (I don't know) --> Confirmed this is Dayco E70621 and can be found at Autozone (https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/hose-upper/p/continental-upper-radiator-hose-e70621/884643_0_0) --> I installed the inline Maradyne temp sensor (for fan control) with Mishimoto 38mm adapter p/n MMWHS-38-BK.

NOTE: I added expanded mesh sleeving to all of the hoses just so they look a little nicer, the exception being the lower radiator hose because I ran out of mesh for that larger hose size.

Hose #1 - lower expansion tank to water pump, and expansion tank cap:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204924&d=1728234692

Hose #2 - Expansion tank vent port to radiator overflow (on right side):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204922&d=1728234352

Hose #3 & ITEM #4 (expansion tank cap)- radiator expansion tank to port on engine:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204925&d=1728234948

Hose #5 - Upper radiator hose - used Gates PowerGrip hose clamp (p/n 32948) at radiator port.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204921&d=1728234188

dbo_texas

10-06-2024, 12:22 PM

Here's the Mishimoto MMWHS-38-BK in-line temp sensor I installed on the lower radiator hose. On this adapter, I installed the 1/8 NPT temp sensor that came with the Maradyne MFA136 Fan Controller Switch.

Hose #6 - lower radiator to water pump with in-line temp sensor:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204915&d=1728232179

Lower radiator connection:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204917&d=1728232179

Here's where I mounted the Maradyne fan controller (p/n MFA136). I just used (2x) 10-24 rivet nuts mounted to the F-panel for mounting the controller. This will hook up to the Coyote orange fan wire and control fan on/off directly, based off of the actual water temp coming out of the radiator. You can program the thermoset set points so that the fan doesn't come on all the time (a common complaint w/ the Coyote setup stock from Ford Racing and controlled by the ECU). It can also run the fan on low or high speed based on the set points (vs. full speed from the Ford ECU).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204920&d=1728233600

dbo_texas

10-06-2024, 04:44 PM

While plumbing the Coyote hook ups I went ahead and finished up the heater hoses. My layout mimics what Ducky2009 did on this build as it looks super clean after everything is in place. I also installed nylon mesh braided sleeving on the hoses for better aesthetic than the bare hose. See POST #193 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-136)&p=561806&viewfull=1#post561806) for the 4-way heater valve install.

The connector for the hoses at the front of the are Dorman 800-419 3/4" SAE to 5/8" barb. Heater hose size is 5/8. I think I bought about 8 or 10 feet of heater hose to make the 4 hoses. Here a pic with and without the engine cover installed - everything tucks up nice and clean underneath the cover:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204938&d=1728250390

To secure the hoses under the Coyote cover, I used a couple of large cable clamps - I think they were 1.5" or maybe 2", and flattened them out and mounted the tabs to the studs coming off the intake. I found some nuts that fit but I don't remember the exact size (was trial/error) but I think maybe they were #10-24 or #10-32 (don't quote me on that).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204937&d=1728250390

Here's an overhead view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204939&d=1728250390

And here's the hose that route to the heater core:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204940&d=1728250390

dbo_texas

10-06-2024, 05:43 PM

Today I was able to install the intake. FFR gives you a couple of options in the instructions. The kit provides one option which uses the following (this is the route I went):

Treadstone MAPHL35 MAF sensor tube
FFR 16404 - 90° silicone intake elbow with 2 fittings (one for DS PCB on the inside of the elbow, and one for CMCV vacuum connection on the outside of the elbow) --> more on this later
FFR 16608 air filter (I think this is K&N E-0649)

The other option is to put together your own kit using Spectre parts - that one has a stainless steel elbow and requires a little more work. I went with the FFR provided option as I don't think it looks too bad.

Here is the finished job with engine cover off:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204949&d=1728252293

Here's another view from above:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204948&d=1728252293

This shows the driver & passenger side PCV hoses. The PS goes to a port just behind the intake manifold and the DS plugs into the 1/2" barb on the inside of the elbow:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204947&d=1728252189

Next up is the CMCV vacuum hose. This one has garnered a LOT of discussion amongst the Coyote crowd. Many believe the FFR Coyote fitment instructions are simply wrong when it comes to how they show hooking up the CMCV hose. Lot's of details on THIS THREAD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35972-Coyote-Gen-2-PVC-CMVV), but in the end after studying the Ford diagram I agree with others on that thread that the FFR instructions are incorrect. That thread is a little tough to follow because Ford changed the Gen2 design, and so the advice in this thread evolved as that became evident. I suggest reading through all of it. In the FFR instructions, they indicate to hook up the CMCV vacuum hose (on the crate engine) to the 3/8" SAE port on the outside of the 90° intake elbow. After studying the Ford diagrams, both for the early version and the later version of the Gen2, I elected to hook the CMCV hose up directly to the 1/2" vacuum port which is directly behind the intake. In the FFR instructions, that port is used for fuel regulator vacuum reference line but they make no mention of the vacuum required for the CMCV/IMRC system. In my fuel setup, I'm using the Breeze returnless fuel kit which uses a fixed PSI fuel filter/regulator and doesn't need that vacuum line. If you study this Ford early Gen2 plumbing diagram, and follow the CMCV connection, you can see that in the end it actually does hook up to the 1/2 vacuum port behind the intake (indirectly):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204970&d=1728253923

It's worth mentioning that there are 2 versions of the Gen2 Coyote engine. The early gen2's did have some additional connections on the DS and required you to make some custom hoses (see diagram above) for CMCV venting (not vacuum reference), and the CMCV vents in the rear used the intake as the reference as indicated by the diagram above. However, later generation Gen2 Coyotes like the one I have change how the CMCV vents are designed and they vent to atmosphere instead of to the intake; the ports on the rear got capped and it eliminated that DS hose completely. This is a modified diagram showing how my later Gen2 CMCV vacuum reference line is plumbed. You can see the two hoses on the DS are gone completely, and are not needed. If using a pressure regulator you may still need to tap into one of the vacuum lines for that reference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202302&d=1722306825

So, after all this, given I have the newer Gen2 and don't need the fuel regulator vacuum reference, I elected to cap the 3/8 port on the outside of the intake elbow and instead hook up a 1/2" hose from the vacuum port directly on the engine (behind the intake) to the CMCV line. Here's how mine is plumbed. I still need to find a cap for the 3/8 port on the outside of the elbow. I'm thinking of getting a 3/8 SAE Quick Disconnect Blanking Cap instead of using the hose clamp + cap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204971&d=1728254584

And finally, here a pic w/ the engine cover installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204945&d=1728252189

Blitzboy54

10-06-2024, 05:53 PM

A lot of great detail in here. Much appreciated update.

dbo_texas

10-06-2024, 08:42 PM

And finally, here a pic w/ the engine cover installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204945&d=1728252189

Forgot to post this pic showing the direction/orientation of the MAF sensor. This is the sensor that gets removed from the stock intake/filter box that comes with the crate motor. I have it positioned with the rounded edge toward the bend in the intake elbow, so that the air gets forced into the sensor. If this is incorrect, somebody let me know! It's easy enough to flip - you just have to flip around the Treadstone MAF tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204946&d=1728252189

dbo_texas

10-14-2024, 09:35 AM

I found a 3/8 SAE Quick Disconnect cap to put on the 3/8 port on the outside elbow of the intake. Looks a little cleaner vs. the rubber cap + clamp option. I thought the evap purge vent above the throttle body was also 3/8 but it's slightly larger....maybe 7/16 so I kept that one capped with a clamp. Surprisingly there don't appear to be many places that make these SAE blanking caps, but this is where I got it from if others are interested:
https://www.anhosefittings.com/raceflux-3-8-sae-j2044-female-quick-connect-blanking-cap.html

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205288&d=1728916441

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205289&d=1728916441

dbo_texas

11-24-2024, 07:29 PM

Haven't had a chance to work on the car for about 2 months. I'm planning to take this week off for Thanksgiving and get some good hours in. Tonight I decided to mount the actuator cable for the heater bypass valve. This has been bothering me for a while because I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Turned out to be pretty simple. I used the bypass valve provided with the kit from FFR and cut the end off which has the screw clamp. Then I just riveted this to the firewall to secure the cable jacket. Tested and seems to work fine.

One question - what's the best way to secure the cable end onto the post? It can slip up or down (and fall off) fairly easily at the moment. Seems like one good bump will knock it off. I thought about using some JB Weld to fix a small washer just before the bend - that would take care of it moving up. I suppose I could do the same on the bottom after installing the cable but that would make servicing it a pain.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206777&d=1732493980

dbo_texas

12-01-2024, 07:25 PM

Over Thanksgiving break I was able to mount the blast gates for each footbox fresh air vent along with the pull cable. I also made some custom heat shields to create a barrier between the headers and the footboxes and also provide a little extra protection for the fresh air vent hoses. Overall this took way longer than I thought it would take. Not sure how much it will reduce the heat on either to footboxes OR the air vent hoses, but I thought it was worth a shot. I insulated the backside of the heat shields with CoolIT thermal/acoustic stick-on mats. Here are some pictures and videos.

VIDEO overview of driver side:

https://youtu.be/DS-zPvt-lcQ

VIDEO overview of passenger side:
https://youtu.be/Wah3vQmSD20

DS pull cable location (I may need to move this if it interferes w/ the door hinge):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207015&d=1733098174

DS blast gate and pull cable routing:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207016&d=1733098174

DS heat shield:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207017&d=1733098174

Another view of DS heat shield. Mounted using rivet nuts and 10-24 screws. The rivet nuts create about a 3/8" air gap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207018&d=1733098174

And here's the PS pull cable routing:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207019&d=1733098174

PS heat shield:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207020&d=1733098193

dbo_texas

12-23-2024, 10:37 PM

I have a complete setup from Forte - Gen2 Coyote + T56 + Quick Time RM-8080 bellhousing. I'm working on all things electrical, hoping to finish it during the holiday break and realized I don't have the bolts for the starter motor. I've tried a bunch of different bolt sizes and thread pitches, and nothing seems to work. I've tried 3/8x16, 5/16x18, 5/16x24, M8x1.25, and M7x1. The 5/16/18 seems to start threading into the bellhousing but stops pretty quick. The M7x1 actually goes in a little further before it stops. So now I'm thinking maybe it is an M8x1 fine pitch bolt? Weird size if that's it.... Anybody know what is the correct bolt thread size, thread pitch, and length for the mini-starter motor that Forte includes with the Coyote setup? The starter seems to be the stock Ford OEM starter motor (https://www.ford.com/product/hightorque-mini-starter-50l-coyote-and-modular-engines-p2741562912?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsaS7BhDPARIsAAX5cSCqy9IR SdMR3sOvk3ikgn-D23WUTAcUoFcQimtpjCrNzor5a1g_2uEaAtgCEALw_wcB&fmccmp=marketplace-gs-cta-accessories&searchid=20643481100%7C157311292289%7Cpla-293946777986&fcid=pse_20643481100_google-pla&ef_id=Cj0KCQiAsaS7BhDPARIsAAX5cSCqy9IRSdMR3sOvk3ik gn-D23WUTAcUoFcQimtpjCrNzor5a1g_2uEaAtgCEALw_wcB%3AG% 3As&s_kwcid=AL!2519!3!676763613569!!!g!293946777986!!2 0643481100!157311292289&gad_source=1)for Mustangs as far as I can tell.

I'll give Forte a call after the holidays but was hoping to work on it sooner.

topherchrisb

12-24-2024, 07:11 AM

dbo_texas

12-24-2024, 09:42 PM

I just put my coyote in a couple days ago. I was able to get to one of the bolts out and take some pictures for you. You're mileage may very with my hardware know how but I tried to give the detail in the pictures you need. Seems to me like 35mm long, m8x1.25, with a 13mm flange head. I tried to upload the photos from my phone but they are SUPER huge. I'll add the photos to this post when I get back to the house and I can edit the sizes on my computer. It'll probably be a few hours as I'm just starting my morning in the shop. Trying to get some things done before the kids wake up.

I was looking at the coyote install instructions and on page 3 they have this part number for the starter bolts W500310.S438 which does say m8 35 long.

It says 1.25 on the die if you can't read it in the picture.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208021&d=1735057739

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208020&d=1735057739

Thanks for checking and confirming the size. I picked up some with these specs (M8x1.25x35) and they worked. I think the threads on my bellhousing were messed up a bit because they still didn’t quite thread in. So I re-tapped with an M8x1.25 tap and then the bolts went in just fine.

Since you just went through this, can you tell me the small post on the starter motor is grounded? After I connected my engine ground strap and the ground from the starter housing (to the engine mount), I was just checking my grounds and tapped the smaller post on the starter which I have the blue starter wire from the Coyote harness connected. I wasn't expecting that to be grounded but for some reason it is. Tomorrow I'll take the lead off and see if the starter wire is grounded or if it is the post itself (on the starter). But either way I was surprised by this.....I don't really know how that post is used so wasn't sure if this is correct or not. If anyone knows, please let me know --> does the Coyote ECU ground this wire until it is triggered?

Also, the instructions don't say anything about having to do anything special when mounting the starter motor. Is there any procedure to check/verify the starter motor gear is aligned properly with the teeth on the flywheel? Is this documented anywhere on the forum?

topherchrisb

12-30-2024, 03:52 PM

Thanks for checking and confirming the size. I picked up some with these specs (M8x1.25x35) and they worked. I think the threads on my bellhousing were messed up a bit because they still didn’t quite thread in. So I re-tapped with an M8x1.25 tap and then the bolts went in just fine.

Since you just went through this, can you tell me the small post on the starter motor is grounded? After I connected my engine ground strap and the ground from the starter housing (to the engine mount), I was just checking my grounds and tapped the smaller post on the starter which I have the blue starter wire from the Coyote harness connected. I wasn't expecting that to be grounded but for some reason it is. Tomorrow I'll take the lead off and see if the starter wire is grounded or if it is the post itself (on the starter). But either way I was surprised by this.....I don't really know how that post is used so wasn't sure if this is correct or not. If anyone knows, please let me know --> does the Coyote ECU ground this wire until it is triggered?

Also, the instructions don't say anything about having to do anything special when mounting the starter motor. Is there any procedure to check/verify the starter motor gear is aligned properly with the teeth on the flywheel? Is this documented anywhere on the forum?

Just getting back to the forum... yeah I read this and checked mine. I did get the same result as you with the circuit off the small post being grounded. I'm pretty positive it's wired correctly... but seems unusual. I even powered up the pcm thinking maybe it changes states when it comes on but it was still grounded. I don't have my coolant plumbed yet so I can't try with a start request... it's right next to the exhaust so if it works I probably won't be measuring it in real time neither. When looking up how the solenoid works it may just be the nature of it electronically. It's using an electromagnetic effect from what I see. So no mechanical change is happening to the coiled circuit during a start condition. I don't think I'm too worried about it as I could not find any mentions of this or similar concerns. Hopefully I'll be attempting to start in the next couple days to know for sure.

dbo_texas

01-09-2025, 12:21 PM

Just getting back to the forum... yeah I read this and checked mine. I did get the same result as you with the circuit off the small post being grounded. I'm pretty positive it's wired correctly... but seems unusual. I even powered up the pcm thinking maybe it changes states when it comes on but it was still grounded. I don't have my coolant plumbed yet so I can't try with a start request... it's right next to the exhaust so if it works I probably won't be measuring it in real time neither. When looking up how the solenoid works it may just be the nature of it electronically. It's using an electromagnetic effect from what I see. So no mechanical change is happening to the coiled circuit during a start condition. I don't think I'm too worried about it as I could not find any mentions of this or similar concerns. Hopefully I'll be attempting to start in the next couple days to know for sure.

You are correct in your assumption about the wiring inside the starter motor. I did some additional research and asked the Facebook group (Factory Five Builders page) and they all confirmed that you are seeing that terminal grounded because it isn't a switch - its just the positive side of the coil for the electromagnet which drives the solenoid. The other side of that coil is ground....so there is no disconnect. You may measure a slightly higher resistance that a pure ground path but not much. So now it all makes sense. Apply voltage to that post and the magnetic field is created which drives the solenoid and engages the starter gear to the flywheel ring gear teeth.

I also called Forte's and they confirmed that I should not need any special spacers for the combo I have to set proper spacing between starter gear and flywheel teeth. So I just bolted my up. Hoping for first start in the next couple of weeks after I finish up my power steering hoses and add coolant to the system.

dbo_texas

01-12-2025, 07:46 PM

I detailed in Post #184 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=557180&viewfull=1#post557180) the blower install, and in Post #205 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=568886&viewfull=1#post568886) the blast gate install.

Since then, I moved the DS blast gate pull so that it hopefully won't interfere with the door check strap. I just moved it to the front face of the 2x2 frame tube and lowered it a bit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209039&d=1736728712

Next, I went ahead and installed the 3" hoses onto the blowers and blast gates. Both are routed above the heat shields I installed above the headers, hopefully to help keep some of the heat off of the hoses. At the front it's just hanging until I'm ready to put the body on and terminate at the brake duct openings. On the DS, I may have to tweak this a little bit once I go to install the elephant ears. I'll definitely need to add a notch for the hose to pass through. With the hydroboost in the same space, its getting a little packed on this side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209037&d=1736728317

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209038&d=1736728317

I also found a good way to hold the heater bypass valve choke wire onto the valve stem. I used a 3mm starlock push-on washer. It grips really well and I ended up putting one above and below the choke coil. It worked really well to secure it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209044&d=1736729066

dbo_texas

01-12-2025, 07:56 PM

I just happened to be reading through TTimmy's build thread and saw a comment (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49785-TTimmy%92s-MK3-Basket-Case-Build-Thread-SEAT-HEATERS&p=566569&viewfull=1#post566569) from the one and only Jeff Kleiner about the brake line routing to the master cylinder. He mentions that the front port on the master cylinder should route to the rear brakes and the rear port should route to the front brakes. The explanation that follows seems to make sense to me. In all my years on this forum I had never seen that comment or discussion before....so it got me wondering how I routed my brake lines. Sure enough, I did the same thing. Only difference is I've got a hydroboost in my setup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174581&d=1667787319

So today I went ahead and crossed the hard lines going into the master cylinder banjo connections. The process wasn't too bad - I used a syringe to pull all the brake fluid out of the reservoirs just in case they wanted to drain when I disconnected the lines. I also elevated the hoses from the reservoirs hoping to again prevent a big mess. It seemed to work - very little came out of the ports when I disconnected the hard lines. Anyhow, here's a "after" pick. I just crossed the lines, so all should be good now (front port goes to rear brakes, and rear port goes to front brakes). I will re-bleed the brakes when I have some time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209046&d=1736729724

TTimmy

01-12-2025, 10:37 PM

Just got caught up on your build - Good stuff!

Glad to hear you were able to sort out the brakes without too much rework.

TTIMMY!

dbo_texas

02-02-2025, 10:18 PM

I had several people recommend I switch out the blue upper ball joint dust boots that Factory Five supplies with some Energy Suspension 5.13102G. I got them for about $10 from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN9AQU?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp) so its a pretty cheap investment for a much better quality part. This set comes with 2 uppers and 2 lowers --> I only used the upper ones. I left the stock FFR lower dust boots because they look OK and I haven't heard of people having any issues with those. If you search the forum, it it littered with tales of the original blue upper dust boots tearing after about 400-500 miles on the road...some don't even make it on the road. Mine weren't torn yet (I'm still building) but I thought I'd go ahead and swap them out.

Many people struggle with getting the upper ball joint stud to release from the socket when trying to swap out this boot. So I made a quick video showing how to do it. It's actually very easy. The steps are:

Remove cotter pin and loosen nut but leave it threaded on with 1 or 2 threads. This is to catch the lower control arms from falling once it is loose. You can also put something under the lower arms to support them.
Hit the knuckle on the side at the ball joint stud with a big hammer. I used a 5lb sledge hammer and it works great. Here's a video showing how to do it:

https://youtu.be/fCJ-NhKvm8k
Once the stud is loose in the socket, remove the castle nut (careful the hub/knuckle will rotate down).
Once the stud is free from the socket you can slip the old dust boot off, clean up around the ball joint, and replace it with the new boot. It's a messy process due to all the grease so have some paper towels handy. The new boot doesn't stay in place very well until you re-seat the ball joint and tighten it down, then it forces the boot onto the joint lip.
Re-install the ball joint into the socket, tighten the castle nut (75 ft-lbs torque) and reinstall the cotter pin
Regrease through the zerk fitting on top until the boot starts to swell....don't over do it or it could pop off and spew grease everywhere.

Here are some pictures. This is the original FFR blue dust boot. Mine weren't torn like others experienced:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210033&d=1738552383

Removing the FFR dust boot:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210034&d=1738552383

The new Energy Suspension boot. Note that in the kit I bought, use the ones with the longer lip (at the bottom of the dust boot in this picture) for the upper ball joint. I think I've read the lower ones that come with this kit area also a perfect fit for the lower ball joints but I didn't install them.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210035&d=1738552383

Here's the finished result:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210036&d=1738552383

dbo_texas

02-02-2025, 11:25 PM

I was finally able to finish up the power steering hoses plumbing. This was a pretty big undertaking, complicated by the addition of hydroboost and an oil cooler. The hydroboost uses the power steering high pressure output to assist the brakes. And I added the oil cooler because I like the aesthetic of the cooler and hoses in the nose opening. This was a pretty expensive undertaking due to all the custom hoses I had to make - meaning lots of AN PTFE stainless braided hoses and many different types of adapters to connect it all together. I had to make a diagram to keep it all straight. This is what I ended up with - and I need to give a big shoutout to Lidodrip for helping clarify a bunch of questions. I basically mimicked his setup but with some slightly different hose routing. Here is a diagram showing all the hoses and adapters used:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210038&d=1738553378

If you are interested in the specific parts I used, here's my order spreadsheet. I used 10AN hoses for the oil cooler, and everything else is 6AN. One thing to note, is that I merged the 6AN return from the hydroboost with the 6AN return from the power steering rack into a Y-adapter which has a 10AN output. The output of the Y-adapter goes to the oil cooler, then back to the KRC pump. I guess one thing to note here --> I ended up NOT using (2x) of the Russell 620421 (high pressure right angle 6AN PTFE hose end) and (1x) Russell 620401 because I was able to use the power steering hoses that came with the KRC setup from FFR and just cut off one end and terminate with the connector of my choosing. So I plan on returning those.

Spreadsheet of parts I used: Worth noting that you need to be real careful when buying AN fittings - for power steering you need to use the PTFE hoses which can handle high pressure, and make sure to get the corresponding AN hose ends made for PTFE hose....many are made for EPDM or other hose types and won't work with PTFE. You will know it is the right one if it has the separate little metal ferrule that goes on the end of the hose and the adapter goes into:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gl65QVtV9GHNAiMJ_6B7lvTcWHaH5XDhwYp7hYPZSdA/edit?usp=sharing

Here are some pictures from the build. Every one of the hoses was custom built to length. I cut the PTFE using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and wrapped the hose with electrical tape where I made the cuts. This prevented the cut end from fraying until I could get the adapters installed. I started off installing the nose aluminum. I know this isn't supposed to go on until after the body, but I needed to fit the lower piece at a minimum so I could mount the oil cooler. The two side pieces come out easily (just using clecos for now) and can be trimmed and put back on after the body. For the lower piece, I will try to trim in place, but I realize I may have to disconnect the hoses and remove it which would kind of suck. We'll see if it can fit under the body without removing. I can always trim it in place if it is interfering anywhere. To start with the sides, I aligned the notches with the holes for the quick jack studs - this was a tip i.e.427 garage mentions on their video HERE (https://youtu.be/-pgHnCfUIYc?si=JFkAj_9Zbx9KTEL9&t=389).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210042&d=1738555678

Here are the left, right and lower panels mounted. I'm aware Replicaparts makes a nice shroud piece for the nose, but I'm personally not a fan of the rounded appearance so wanted to try to make the FFR pieces work.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210043&d=1738555678

After removing the lower panel, I carefully measured where the oil cooler needs to go to center it on the radiator and cut the holes and mounted it. I didn't use the FFR template from their oil cooler install instructions because my oil cooler was different and the holes didn't line up with my parts. I do worry the body will not be centered and therefore the oil cooler won't be centered in the opening....I'll reevaluate when the body goes on. Worst case, I can make another lower panel but hopefully this will work out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210044&d=1738555678

Some shots of the oil cooler installed onto the panel:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210046&d=1738555694

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210047&d=1738555694

And here it is with the hoses installed. I have some cardboard on the sides to keep the braided stainless hose from rubbing off the powder coat. I ended up just removing those side panels since I planned on removing them anyways to fit after the body goes on. I ended up routing the hoses up to the top of the radiator instead of punching holes into the side panels. There are a few reasons for this. One, I like the look of the hoses routed this way, and two, if I have to disconnect the hoses later to get the body one, that's two less parts I'd have to deal with. Again, maybe this will change after the body goes on but for now this is the plan. I did add a couple of hose clamps to secure them to the side panels after final assembly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210049&d=1738555694

Here is a video walkthrough of the hose routing:

https://youtu.be/OWnemcLhxdQ

dbo_texas

02-07-2025, 11:08 AM

I just finished routing all my wiring. Currently I don't have the battery cables connected to the battery, nor is the dash connected (so several of the RF harness wires are dangling, such as the ignition switch wires, headlight connector, and several of the accessory items. I did a thorough review last night and do NOT see anything touching something else (like chassis metal or other wires). Everything looks isolated as far as I can tell.

I wanted to start testing the circuits. My first thought was to check the master cutoff switch was working - and I confirmed it is. When I flip it "off" I get no continuity from the + battery cable to the RF fuse panel (or red ignition wires on the harness). When I flip it "ON" I get continuity. So the master cutoff is doing its job.

Next I wanted to verify I don't have any shorts between +12V battery and ground. This is where I'm at currently, and I think I have a problem. With the master cutoff switch ON, if I probe that + battery cable and touch chassis ground, I get the beeping from my digital multimeter (DMM) indicating continuity between them. When I flip the DMM to measure the resistance, its only about 1.2 ohm. To me this seems like something on the +12V battery circuit is shorted to ground. As mentioned, I don't have the ignition switch hooked up yet (all wires are dangling from the RF harness). The alternator is hooked up to +12V battery (from busbar behind the dash) and also the alternator control plug from the Coyote harness. Starter motor is also wired up (blue starter wire from Coyote ECU, and +12V from master cutoff switched side).

My next test, per suggestion on the FB Builder group, is to add a 5A fuse in-line with the + battery cable, then connect it to the actual battery +12V terminal, and then connect the ground terminal on the battery. If the 5A in-line fuse pops, that would be confirmation that I have a short somewhere.

I'll run this 5A fuse test later today, but assuming the fuse blows, how would I even approach trouble-shooting this? Do I disconnect everything (headlights, parking lights, turn signals, heater, relays, etc), then start connecting stuff one-by-one and checking for +12V shorting at each step?

Or should I hook up the dash connections, and do this same approach with the 5 amp in-line fuse? I just don't want to damage any of the parts so that's why I'm being cautious. Wiring is not my strong suite....I thought I was careful and had it all figured out but now I'm second guessing.

dbo_texas

02-08-2025, 11:20 AM

Well after a bit more troubleshooting I figured out my this first electrical issue. I went ahead and put an in-line fuse holder in series between the battery terminal and + battery cable and installed a 7.5A fuse. I then connected the negative battery cable to the battery, expecting the fuse to pop since I was pretty sure I had a +12V short to ground. To my surprise the fuse didn't blow. So next I searched around the car and looked at all the lights (headlights, parking lights, turn signals, courtesy lights, and brake lights)....and voila I immediately noticed both rear brake lights were ON.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210271&d=1739031233

I remembered that the FFR provided brake/clutch switch has two sets of terminals, one is normally open and the other is normally closed. I had my brake light wires initially hooked up to the rear set of terminals which are the NO terminals....so with the pedal in the resting position, it actuates the switch and closes the circuit (thus drawing power and lighting up the brake lights). To fix it, I just simply swapped to the front set of NC terminals....now with the pedal in the resting position, the circuit is open as it should be, and the brake lights are NOT running constantly. Easy fix...and thankful it wasn't something more devious.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210272&d=1739031233

Just to double check, I confirmed again with my multimeter that the +12V battery cable doesn't have continuity with the chassis ground anywhere. I re-measured the resistance after swapping the brake wires on the switch, and it went from 1.4 ohm originally to about 6-7 mega-ohm after the fix. So all is good now. Next up - checking the rest of the circuits one by one. I'll pull all the fuses from the RF panel and pop them in one at a time, checking each circuit one by one.

dbo_texas

02-10-2025, 12:08 PM

I went ahead and swapped all the incandescent bulbs for the LED bulbs from Breeze 70775 LED kit (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/led-exterior-lighting-kit/) that I bought on the forum. I didn't take pictures of the brake or parking lights bulb swap but those are very straight forward. Just remove the lens, twist the old bulb out and twist the new LED bulb into the socket. It's a drop-in replacement. The kit comes w/ 2x amber LED bulbs for the front parking/turn lights, and 4x red LED bulbs for the rear brakes/running lights/turn signals. I guess only thing worth noting is that the front lenses just twist off, but the rears are held on with 2 screws (from the visible side). On the fronts, I also replaced the amber lens provided with the FFR kit with a clear lens (Lucas L539). This is just a personal preference - I like the look of the clear lenses.

For the headlight bulb swap, the Breeze kit comes with a new Hella lens, LED A4 bulbs, and power converters which plug directly into the FFR 3-pring connector. Here are some pictures, following the Breeze install instructions.

Increase the hole in the bucket to 9/16", then slip the grommet over the LED connector. This was actually the hardest part of the whole conversion. I used a small screwdriver to stretch the grommet and get it over the connector.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210335&d=1739206523

Install grommet
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210336&d=1739206523

Next you need to mount the power ballast for the LED bulb. Breeze instructions show you drilling 5/32 holes in the back of the bucket and securing with included zip ties. So that's what I did - it works well:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210339&d=1739206523

Next step was a little confusing for me having never installed the headlight brackets before. The FFR bulbs have features molded in the glass, but the Breeze supplied Hella lens has little metal clips. You need to align these clips with the holes in the bracket. While there are extra holes on the bracket, when you rotate the bracket there is only one position which aligns all 3 brackets with 3 holes. This is the right orientation. Once aligned, install the 3 little clips with the short brass screws.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210337&d=1739206523

Next, plug the LED bulb into the lens, and secure w/ the metal wire clips. Then install the lens into the bucket. The slotted tabs on the bracket go into the grooves of the adjustment screws on the bucket (right image):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210338&d=1739206523

To secure the lens into the bucket there is a single thread-cutting screw which goes through the remaining metal tab on the bracket and into a boss in the bucket at the 4 o-clock position. Here's the final headlight assembly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210340&d=1739206548

Finally, I mounted the headlights & parking lights to the quick-jack brackets on the front just to keep them suspended for testing. You can see the clear Lucas L539 lenses here.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210341&d=1739206548

dbo_texas

02-11-2025, 12:31 AM

I went through all the circuits and tested them to make sure power was going where it was supposed to, then went ahead and hooked up the battery. Here's a video I took running through all the different circuits. Overall I'm pretty happy with it....most of the circuits are working as expected, but there are a few items I need to dig into. I'll do a series of much longer posts with lots of pictures of all my wire routing and schematics, but for now this will do:

Items I still need to check/verify:

When I turn key to ON, sometimes I get 12V on the dash gauge, sometimes I only get about 8V. I'm not sure what's going on here. Cycling the key off/on seems to fix it. This has me a little worried. Need to see if this is an issue or not...and what might be causing it. Almost seems like the ignition switch is a little flakey...I may take apart the cylinder and see if anything strange is happening.
Turning key to ON results in a sound coming form the trunk area...it's very brief...maybe just 1 second or so and then it stops. Is this the fuel pump? You can hear it at about the 15 second mark in my video below. Can anyone confirm if this is indeed the fuel pump?
Initially I had an issue with the DS rear tail-light. It wasn't working properly, so I de-pinned the Weatherpack connector and re-terminated the wires, and that seems to have fixed it. I think it was a ground issue with my jumper wires (two wires into one terminal on the connector). I think this one is resolved.
Wiper park function not working. Low/High speed work, but not park. Could be a number of reasons...I'm using a '65 Mustang rotary switch so not a standard setup. Could be I messed up the wiring (no clear instructions I could find that marries the '65 rotary witch to the FFR wiper), or could be the stuck park switch issue that others have reported (on the motor). I'll probably start there and see if I can take the motor apart and see if the switch is stuck.
Neither footbox blower is working. I'm not sure why - the billet buttons on the dash light up when headlights are on or if button is pressed --> this was how I intended it. But the relay isn't firing so I'm not sure what the issue is. On the relays for these, both the +coil and device power come from ORG-EFI OR COIL from the RF harness. I confirm I have 12V on the fuse panel so not sure what's going on. I will start by probing the inputs to the relay to make sure its getting power. Then I'll bench test the blowers just to make sure they aren't bad (unlikely).
I tried cranking the engine one time just to see if the starter motor would fire....I don't have any gas or coolant in yet. I was just hoping for the engine to try to turnover with the starter motor. I pressed the clutch switch (by hand), then turned key to "START"....I hear some noises/relays clicking in the Coyote PDB fuse box, and a single click from the engine bay (maybe the starter solenoid firing?), but no turnover. Transmission was in neutral for this. Not sure what is supposed to happen. Can anyone enlighten me what I should look for here? I haven't had a chance to probe the TAN-ELEC CHOKE wire which I'm connecting to the Coyote 16-pin pigtail light green IGNITION TRIGGER RELAY wire which wakes up the ECU. I did probe the ODB port and pin 16 has 12V power, as it is supposed to. So I have some work to do here.
I'll need to check the oil pressure & water temp gauges once I start the engine

Systems confirmed working:

Master cutoff switch works and kills all power to the RF fuse panel; Coyote PDB still gets power because its on the non-switched side of the master cutoff terminals.
Fuel pump manual manual cutoff switch works (in-line w/ inertia switch)
Dash gauges all have power & backlighting
Breeze LED conversion (headlights, tail lights, parking/turn signals) - all working
FFR Headlight switch working fine - parking lights, headlights, and courtesy lights. Dimmer function doesn't work...lights are either on or off (I have a 2018 harness so this is expected without adding a secondary LED dimmer I believe).
Headlights - low/high using RT turn signal stock w/ IDIDIT relays switch for control (flash to pass when headlights off and low/high switch when headlights are on)
Left/Right turn signals using RT turn signal
Flashers using billet button with diodes (button blinks w/ flashers, all 4 corners blink)
Horn using billet button (lights up w/ headlights)
Billet dash indicator LEDs & speedo indicator LEDs
Reverse light
License plate light (still using incandescent bulb --> can anyone recommend a good LED replacement? bulb size?)
Heater - low & high works (didn't run it long enough to feel heat since I'm not running coolant yet)
Wiper - low & high works. Park function does NOT work.
Courtesy lights (multiple LED lamps added all over the car - 2x in engine bay, 4x in cockpit, 4x in trunk)

And here is the full walk-through. I'm pretty stoked to finally see some blinky lights!

https://youtu.be/-fUYHbB_osg

dbo_texas

02-14-2025, 10:18 AM

Well...I'm officially in electrical troubleshooting hell. More details to come later but lots of stuff seems wrong. For some reason, sometimes I get 12V on the RF fuse panel, but most of the time I only get around 9V. In the video above, everything seemed to be working pretty well with the exception of the footbox blowers. But as I played around with it more I started noticing some strange things. For example when I'm in that condition of having only 9V showing on the RF fuse panel busses, if I press the horn button, all the gauges drop them come back up and the horn is muted/muffled like it isn't getting sufficient current/power. I disconnected the battery cables and measured directly across the terminals and get 11.8V so the battery is fine. But as soon as I hook up the cables, and measure across the terminals, I only get about 9V. Even that doesn't make sense to me. If something in the setup is pulling current, wouldn't measuring directly across the battery terminals still give me 12V?

I think I also have a short to ground form my IGN circuits. I'm going to try to isolate which circuit is the problem....I think I will start removing fuses one by one to see if the voltage ever stabilizes. Then if I get all of them removed and still seem to have some type of issue, I'm not sure where to go from there. The tan CHOKE circuit definitely has a path to ground (as indicated by my multimeter showing continuity to GND) but I'm pretty sure since I have that going to the Coyote LT GREEN TRIGGER wire on the 16-pin pigtail that should be a ground path through one of the Coyote relay coils. The resistance on that Coyote LT GREEN TRIGGER wire to GND is about 73 ohms which is what all the other relays measure across the coil. So that seems to make sense at least.

Its strange because even in this lowered voltage state (~9V) all the lighting works just fine (headlights, flashers, brake lights, parking lights, etc). The VOLT gauge also shows 9V instead of 12V (confirmed by probing the brown Gauge Feed wire in the dash harness). I know I'm getting voltage to the Coyote PDB too. Uh...this was my nightmare and why I prolonged the electrical for so long. Just going to take is step by step and try to figure this out. If anyone has suggestions how best track down this gremlin, I'm all ears.

edwardb

02-14-2025, 10:38 AM

Time to check your battery. Less than 12V surface voltage (nothing attached) is low. Should be in the 12.6 - 12.8 range. Then when you put just the slightest draw on it (connecting cables, etc.) it drops to 9V, also not good. Time for a test, charge, or maybe replacement. Maybe try a different battery or even jump it? Any auto parts store will test it for you. That's the obvious place to start. Lights (especially LED) will come on with lowered voltage, but higher draw items, like the horn, will just buzz and protest. Start with the obvious first.

dbo_texas

02-14-2025, 10:42 AM

Thanks for the suggestion & confirming it shouldn't drop to 9V when the cables are attached. It's a yellow top Optima battery that I bought in July '24 so its been sitting a while. I did hook it up to a trickle charger before I started testing and thought it was good. I'll try to charge it again and see if this changes anything, and if that doesn't work I'll pull the battery and take it to get tested.

Jeff Kleiner

02-14-2025, 10:43 AM

Paul is exactly right! You can show ~12 volts static but that doesn't mean that it has enough amperage to carry a load. In simple terms I think you have a dead battery.

Jeff

Jeff Kleiner

02-14-2025, 10:44 AM

Paul is exactly right! You can show ~12 volts static but that doesn't mean that it has enough amperage to carry a load. In simple terms I think you have a dead battery.

Jeff

dbo_texas

02-14-2025, 11:04 AM

Paul is exactly right! You can show ~12 volts static but that doesn't mean that it has enough amperage to carry a load. In simple terms I think you have a dead battery.

Jeff

Thanks! I'm borrowing a trickle charger from a neighbor. I think I remember you saying for anyone bringing a Yellow Top in their car to you, to bring a charger with it? Maybe I remember that wrong....

Its Bruce

02-14-2025, 12:08 PM

License plate light (still using incandescent bulb --> can anyone recommend a good LED replacement? bulb size?)

Ref. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41560-License-plate-light-bulb

dbo_texas

02-14-2025, 12:23 PM

Ref. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41560-License-plate-light-bulb

Yep I found that thread after my post and ended up getting some on Amazon. Should arrive today.

dbo_texas

02-17-2025, 10:52 PM

OK - Optima Yellow Top D51 battery got yanked and tested, and as suspected, the battery went bad despite never using it. I guess I let it sit too long (~ 1 yr). It was under warranty (3-yr) so they swapped it out. I had them test the new battery before I took it and it checked out. When I hooked the new battery up, so far it seems that most of my issues have gone away. I'm getting the full 12.6V everywhere I should be now, and the gauges aren't acting weird and power cycling like they were with the bad battery. The only issue I'm currently aware of are my footbox blowers still aren't working. The switch it getting power, and the relay is getting device power input, but I think I may have something wrong with the ground connection on the billet buttons because the relay won't trigger when the button is pressed. I pulled the dash tonight and will re-inspect my button wiring for those blowers. It's the same story on both sides, so I likely just messed up the wiring on the back of the button. I do have it set up so that either the parking lights OR the feed to the relay coil can light up the button (used diodes to prevent back current). I'm wondering if I messed that up somehow. Hopefully its something easy, and I can re-test then go in and clean up all the wiring behind the dash.

gbranham

02-18-2025, 09:52 AM

Thanks! I'm borrowing a trickle charger from a neighbor. I think I remember you saying for anyone bringing a Yellow Top in their car to you, to bring a charger with it? Maybe I remember that wrong....

Yep, Jeff said that. He said it to me recently, after I unwittingly bought a craptacular Yellow Top, thinking they were still good batteries. I'll likely replace it with a Walmart Special for 1/3 the price before I take it to Jeff to work his magic.

dbo_texas

02-18-2025, 02:04 PM

I'm investigating why my footbox blowers aren't working, and need some help to review the wiring on my billet button. Currently my hazard and horn billet buttons are working perfectly. For the footbox fan buttons, I wired them up so that ideally the button illuminates with either the parking lights OR with button press (latching style). I'm using the Blue LED on the switch, and when key is in ON position, the button does light up with both parking lights or button press. The issue is that the relay controlling the blowers is not triggering. I verified I'm getting 12V IGN to the relay device power input, and I bench tested both the blower and the relay so I know they aren't defective. I'm ~80% sure my problem is how I wired the button.

This diagram shows my current setup. The billet button uses a common anode (+) for all the LEDs, and you just ground the wire color (red/green/blue) you want to light up. For me, that's the blue LED wire. Red, green & yellow (switch normally closed) wires are not used in my setup. As you can see, I have 2 sources of power to this common anode wire (black wire). It can either get +12V from the normally open (NO) contact, so that when you push the button it gets power from the relay coil IGN feed, OR from the parking wire. I have diodes on both the parking wire and the NO wire (i.e. output of the switch) to prevent any reverse current flow. But with this setup, for whatever reason my path to ground (via the blue wire) doesn't seem to close. Which is confusing me because the LED works....which means it does have a ground path. If I probe the terminals with my multi-meter for continuity between the orange and blue wires, it does not show continuity. Any suggestions on what I did wrong here? I've also reached out to Billet Buttons but haven't received a reply yet so hoping someone here could offer some feedback.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210562&d=1739904747

Its Bruce

02-18-2025, 05:35 PM

You're putting +12V on both* sides of the relay coil (86 & 85). A cursory review suggests you need to take the orange wire off the NO terminal and run it to terminal 87 of the relay. Then connect the NO terminal to ground. There's probably a few ways to do it, but that's just one. Your LED also becomes a good functional relay light when you're parking lights aren't on.

*Edit: I realize now that the "upward facing" diode on the NO circuit prevents +12V from getting to terminal 85. Either way, you aren't completing the relay coil circuit.

dbo_texas

02-18-2025, 08:29 PM

Yeah the intent with the diode on the orange wire was to prevent the parking light 12V from going opposite direction into the relay coil (via terminal 85). And I agree that the NO terminal needs to somehow connect to ground to close the relay coil circuit. I thought the way I have it wired would accomplish this (via the black common anode(+) wire then through the blue cathode (-) wire to ground, but apparently not. When I probe orange to blue, I get no continuity. So I'm just confused how the internal function of the switch & LED power works on these buttons.

Its Bruce

02-18-2025, 08:53 PM

The LED circuit is independent from the common and NO/NC terminals. I guess that would make a DPDT switch.

dbo_texas

02-19-2025, 10:32 AM

The LED circuit is independent from the common and NO/NC terminals. I guess that would make a DPDT switch.

I get that they are two independent circuits. What I'm trying to figure out is how to power the LED from both the parking lights or button press. Currently the lighting part works exactly like that but the ground path for the relay coil doesn't seem to be working which is very confusing (if the LED is working, then there's a ground path....so why isn't the relay working?). I'm wondering if I add a parallel wire from the NO terminal directly to the same ground as the blue LED wire, if that will fix my problem. This basically puts the LED circuit in parallel but also gives the relay coil circuit a direct path to ground when the button is pressed (without having to go through the LED first).

AndrewIdaho

02-19-2025, 10:52 AM

I get that they are two independent circuits. What I'm trying to figure out is how to power the LED from both the parking lights or button press. Currently the lighting part works exactly like that but the ground path for the relay coil doesn't seem to be working which is very confusing (if the LED is working, then there's a ground path....so why isn't the relay working?). I'm wondering if I add a parallel wire from the NO terminal directly to the same ground as the blue LED wire, if that will fix my problem. This basically puts the LED circuit in parallel but also gives the relay coil circuit a direct path to ground when the button is pressed (without having to go through the LED first).

Just a thought: I deal with LEDs regularly in the electronics I design and all require a resistor to set the intensity and limit the current to an acceptable amount as to no burnout the LED. Some LEDs have this this resistor built in. Could it be that the LEDS in the switch have such a resistor and this resistor is limiting the current such that it is not enough to energize the relay?

Andrew

Follow on - could you measure the current through the LED and see if it is limited?

dbo_texas

02-19-2025, 12:01 PM

Just a thought: I deal with LEDs regularly in the electronics I design and all require a resistor to set the intensity and limit the current to an acceptable amount as to no burnout the LED. Some LEDs have this this resistor built in. Could it be that the LEDS in the switch have such a resistor and this resistor is limiting the current such that it is not enough to energize the relay?

Andrew

Follow on - could you measure the current through the LED and see if it is limited?

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't believe there's a built in resistor in the billet switches but I'm not positive. I say this only because on the Billet Buttons (https://custombilletbuttons.com/wiring-diagram/) website they have some comments about running the LED in parallel to any device going through the switch so as to not burn out the LED, and recommend using a relay instead which should draw minimal current through the LED circuit. This is what I'm doing so current draw should be small. For the parking lights, I converted everything to LED so current on that should also be relatively low (I think). If I were to try to measure current on the button LED do I just probe each side (black anode terminal and blue ground terminal)?

AndrewIdaho

02-19-2025, 12:59 PM

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't believe there's a built in resistor in the billet switches but I'm not positive. I say this only because on the Billet Buttons (https://custombilletbuttons.com/wiring-diagram/) website they have some comments about running the LED in parallel to any device going through the switch so as to not burn out the LED, and recommend using a relay instead which should draw minimal current through the LED circuit. This is what I'm doing so current draw should be small. For the parking lights, I converted everything to LED so current on that should also be relatively low (I think). If I were to try to measure current on the button LED do I just probe each side (black anode terminal and blue ground terminal)?

I am not sure of the wire colors. Not sure diagrams are visible. Does this help?

12V -----------Anode LED Cathode----------Ammeter--------GND

-------> Current Flow ----------->

Andrew

dbo_texas

02-26-2025, 12:14 PM

Well after trying a couple of different things, I've resolved the issue with the footbox blower fan wiring. It is now working as intended with with the button LED illuminating with either the parking lights OR with button press. The only thing I think I will add is a small resistor to dim the lights a little bit (from the parking light feed) and add some additional diodes on the power feed wire going to the blower fan to prevent back-feeding the LED when the fan is free-spinning (not powered on). More details on the discussion/solution HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50833-HELP!-Billet-Button-Wiring-for-Footbox-Blower).

Now that all my circuits are working, including the Mustang ignition & rotary wiper switch, I'll do a series of posts with schematics for each custom circuit. Mostly for my own records, but hopefully they can help someone else in the future. More to come...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210869&d=1740543656

dbo_texas

04-06-2025, 04:30 PM

I swear I'll get around to posting details on my electrical, it's just a lot and I haven't had time to write up the posts yet. In the mean time, I tackled a few smaller jobs before I attempt 1st start. One of these was the grab handle. I bought the Eddie Marine 275-24P (https://www.eddiemarine.com/product-p/275-24.htm) handle like many others. It fits perfectly just below the glove box on the FFR carbon dash, but be aware the glove box door will hit the bar when you open it. It's not really an issue as the door still opens almost to 90°, just pointing it out.

To mount it, I fabricated a couple of steel "Z" brackets. From the back of the dash, the used button head 5/16 screws going into the handle (handle has tapped holes), and then mounted the other end of the bracket to the 2x2 frame tube with some rivet nuts. I think I used 5/16 bolts all around. I did have to add some notches to my under-dash filler panel to allow the bracket to pass through. In hindsight, I think my brackets would have been better if they has mounted a little further down on the 2x2 frame tube which would have required cutting a bigger clearance notch in the under dash panel. But I think it would add quite a bit more strength having the support bracket at more of an angle. After mounting it up, it feels pretty secure but I didn't yank on it super hard. I'm sure some passenger someday will test this out for me :)

I didn't take any pictures of the bracket, but this is what it all looks like installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212305&d=1743974846

Hard to see but this is a top view looking down at the "z" bracket as it passes through the under-dash filler panel:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212306&d=1743974846

Here's the underside of the filler panel where both Z-brackets attach to the 2x2 frame tube:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212307&d=1743974846

And here's the full dash w/ handle:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212308&d=1743974919

dbo_texas

04-06-2025, 04:44 PM

I am getting ready for 1st start in the very near future so I wanted to mount up the side pipes. I wasn't sure if I needed to add temporary supports during go-carting so I went ahead and used a method that the one and only J. Kleiner suggested when I asked about options in THIS POST (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51055-Roadster-exhaust-hanger-options). Long story short, the suggestion is to temporarily swap the left & right pipes (just for go cart stage) so that the hanger mounting tab points up instead of down. This puts the tab almost directly under the door hinge, so it's easy to attach an exhaust hanger damper and a turnbuckle hook to this to support the weight of the pipes during go carting. I don't know if this is necessary or if everybody does it, but I figured its cheap insurance and gives me peace of mind. I bought some inexpensive 4 1/2" turn buckles (1/4" thread) from Hope Depot with an eyelet on one side and hook on the other, and these rubber exhaust hangers from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TMM21V4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) since they were so cheap.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212309&d=1743975513

I found that the box the pipes shipped in is perfect for making this a 1-man job. I turned it 90° from what is shown here to get the pipe a little closer to the header...you only need to lift it up about 1 inch to get bolts in (with the gasket of course).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212310&d=1743975513

Here it is installed. It's straighter (relative to the body) than I was expecting. I know I may need wedges once I get the body on and in final position. This was just my first impression:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212311&d=1743975513

Here's a side view showing the hanger I added and mounted to the door hinge:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212312&d=1743975513

And a close-up of the temporary hangers:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212313&d=1743975513

dbo_texas

04-06-2025, 05:00 PM

I tried mounting the roll bars today just to get them out of the boxes (and because they look cool!) but I ran into some problems. The primary issue is the the chrome plating on the hoop stud seems to be thick enough to cause an interference with the rear leg going on. I was unable to slide the rear leg onto the hoop stud at all...couldn't even get it started.

Some folks on the Factory Five Builder Facebook page suggested to grind the internal diameter of the leg pipe using a bore hone. I went to AutoZone and bought one, adjusted the tension spring almost all the way up, and went to work. I ground it for about 10 minutes, checking the ID along the way, and unfortunately after almost 10 minutes the ID only opened up about .002" and that's it. The grinding stones on the bore hone tool were just about toast (with the dust everywhere to prove it). So I'm thinking what the hell does it take to open these holes up?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212314&d=1743976206

I then tried a regular old sanding drum mounted to the drill. Again, I pretty much wore the sand paper down to nothing (about 5-10 minutes of grinding away).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212315&d=1743976206

After this, I was able to install the rear leg onto the stud, but just barely. I had to twist it and it still was extremely difficult. Next I tried mounting the bars to the frame. I was worried about binding since it was still difficult to assemble off the frame, so I added some chassis grease to each part (that's what you see in the picture below). Due to the very slight angle different between the hoop leg and the rear leg, when I try to slide the rear leg up onto the stud, this very tiny angle difference causes the legs to bind up. I got it about 1/4" from all the way home (i.e. flush to the top of the hoop leg) before giving up. I didn't snap a picture of that. I then had one hell of a time getting the rear leg to slide back down and off the hoop stud to take the whole thing apart.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212316&d=1743976206

So - what's the trick to getting this to fit? Do I just need to keep grinding that internal diameter on the rear leg? That seems to me to be the solution....to open up enough clearance to allow just a little bit of slip between the pipes and allow a little bit of angular tolerance. I figure .010-.020" of clearance might just be enough. The problem is how to achieve it? Is there a better way to grind away the internal diameter? I don't want to keep buying $20 bore hones...

Mike.Bray

04-07-2025, 08:22 AM

Try taking a piece of round bar stock and cutting a slot in the end about 2" long. Then put a piece of coarse (good quality) emery cloth in it to make a simple ID sander. You want to spin it pretty fast, not sure a drill is going to be very effective. Use a die grinder if you can.

Hope this makes sense.

Blitzboy54

04-07-2025, 08:31 AM

I used one of these. Worked great and pretty quickly. The 2" roll bar is 10x worse.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6YRZC73?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1&th=1

Jeff Kleiner

04-07-2025, 09:12 AM

So - what's the trick to getting this to fit?

You gotta' get rid of the chrome on the male stub and all 4 female ends. I can make pretty short work of it using a 40 &/or 80 grit sanding drums in a die grinder---you need the RPMs which you won't get in a drill. Same thing for taking it off of the male end, just work real carefully and maybe run a couple of layers around the larger OD to protect it from a slip ;)

Good luck!

Jeff

Mike(Ontario)

05-04-2025, 05:54 PM

I like this! I am building an Mk4 with a coyote + heater + glove box and am looking for a solution to fit it all together. If this worked well, for you, and from what I see it did, could I get the design for the box so I too can send it to a local metal laser cutting shop.

dbo_texas

05-05-2025, 12:42 PM

dbo_texas

05-18-2025, 11:48 AM

Haven't gotten back to the roll bars just yet. I bought all sorts of grinders, drum sanding bits, etc and will try those out at a later date. This weekend I had some free time so I went ahead and finished up the last couple of items I needed to complete before semi-permanently mounting the dash.

Heater vents:
I used the vents that came with the FFR heater unit from Vintage Air. I'm doing one vent for each footbox, and also plan on doing the windshield defrost vents. For mounting each vent, I mounted them to the 2x2 frame and they are pointing down. You can angle the baffle in the vent to direct it at your seat. It might not be as efficient as if I had mounted it horizontally, but that would have required the duct hose to exit from the rear of the vent and I couldn't figure out a good way to route the duct. So they point downwards. I mounted using 2 thread-cutting screws into the 2x2 frame tube. Easy.

DS vent (bottom view):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214022&d=1747586530

DS vent (top view):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214024&d=1747586530

PS vent (bottom view):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214025&d=1747586530

PS vent (top view):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214023&d=1747586530

Duct Hose Routing
For the duct hoses, for the DS footbox I used the lower port on the heater and for the dash defrost I'm using the upper port. On the PS it's the opposite simply due to how the hose routing worked out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214026&d=1747586547

Here's what it looks like with all hoses routed. I might need to 3D print a right angle elbow or make a fully custom dash vent for the defrost. I don't think I have room to come from below with the hose going into the defrost vent on the PS side. DS looks like it will work...we'll see.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214027&d=1747586547

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214028&d=1747586547

Question: Does anyone make a metal dash defrost vent trim piece? Preferrable chrome? If not I can have my own laser cut but just curious if anyone makes one already (preferred). I don't want to use the black plastic pieces FFR provides in the kit.