What did you do on your GTM today?

[VD2021]

I've been reading a thread like this in the roadster section. It's an entertaining read so I thought let's start one here. This way there's a place to post trivial stuff like putting gas in the tank or tightening a lugnut......Huge milestones, right?...:)... Just kidding. Now, big or small, lets see what you did today.

[crash]

Well, I didn't do it today, but I did it last night, and the night before that, and the night before that...

For about 3-4 months now I have been laying body filler and sanding...and sanding...and sanding.

Doesn't look like I'm even half way done.

Did I mention I hate dust?

[beeman]

I cleaned the shop up last night, put the Z up on the rack for the winter. Pondering a few body mods on the GTM. My 2 1/2 yo daughter climbed into the GTM and said it was NEAT!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P2axecLkLIw/TrF_HjDs6iI/AAAAAAAAAP4/amwsIc2L_b4/s800/2011-11-01_17-53-29_928.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

I made a list of things to tackle next. I'll be working on the headlight buckets, and hood flashing for the remainder of the week/weekend. Most of my off-time (away from the car)
has been researching tools and fiberglass prep techniques.

I'm also working on a lead for an engine, and comparing various trans-axles which will likely come within the next two months. Installing the engine will be a turning point in
the process from what I can tell: finishing up the wiring, closing up internal panels, interior, etc.

Same question back to you!

[VD2021]

I actually finished it a few days ago.

[LCD Gauges]

I wont believe it until I see a video (or two, or three)!!!

[VD2021]

I wont believe it until I see a video (or two, or three)!!!

???

[LCD Gauges]

Ooops, I missed your bolded post title. I thought you meant you finished the car and I wanted to see a video. :D

The gauge cluster looks incredible. YOu have some talent for that sort of thing.

[VD2021]

I thought you meant you finished the car and I wanted to see a video. :D


Tino,
Oh how I wish that was true......

[LCD Gauges]

Soon Vidal, soon! If it makes you feel any better, I'm running up against more issues. The headlight buckets seem to have the lamp bores too close to the edge
and divider. It's not easy to drill the holes for the alignment pins. I'll need to add some epoxy filler to make it all work.

On top of that, the rivet tool that came with my kit is missing the insert to grab the shank of the rivets...delays, and more delays! I guess I'll be throwing a bit more
money toward this project yet.

[crash]

More cutting. GTM body has now been cut into 32 seperate pieces!!:eek:

[VD2021]

More cutting. GTM body has now been cut into 32 seperate pieces!!:eek:

Wow!

[VD2021]

Driver's side full side intake (Thomas#142 full door scoop) installed.

[Presto51]

More cutting. GTM body has now been cut into 32 seperate pieces!!:eek:

Well it’s really, finally confirmed, Crash is a glutton for punishment :rolleyes:

[kabacj]

More cutting. GTM body has now been cut into 32 seperate pieces!!:eek:

Thats pretty agressive Crash. I know you are building a race car and rubbing is racing as they say. Id hate to have to redo your 35 piece body! :). Kinda nice to just order new glass from the factory.

That said, im looking fwd to see your mods. I guess if you need to do repair, clearly chopping off a few panels from a new body will be childs play compared to this effort.


John

[mmaragos]

More cutting. GTM body has now been cut into 32 seperate pieces!!:eek:

Awesome!

[LCD Gauges]

More cutting. GTM body has now been cut into 32 seperate pieces!!:eek:

You should change your screen name to "craZY"!

:D :D :D Is that the latest trick for reducing front end drag? :D :D :D

Vidal,

I'm liking the side vent inserts. How/Where/ and $$$?

[crash]

Thats pretty agressive Crash. I know you are building a race car and rubbing is racing as they say. Id hate to have to redo your 35 piece body! :). Kinda nice to just order new glass from the factory.

That said, im looking fwd to see your mods. I guess if you need to do repair, clearly chopping off a few panels from a new body will be childs play compared to this effort.


John

Actually there is currently 5 gallons of body filler into this project, and I have 10 more sitting on the shelf. This will not be a usable body when I am done with it. It will be too heavy and not strong enough...I'll leave the rest to your imagination, but let's just say that repairs won't be a problem. ;)

Still, this has taken twice as long as I had hoped with the summer "honey do" projects, which still aren't entirely complete, but since it's been raining, I HAVE to stay indoors, so cutting, filling, and sanding has been the order of the day!

[beeman]

More cutting. GTM body has now been cut into 32 seperate pieces!!:eek:

Are you going with fixed front fenders and a smaller hood? I'm pondering that myself...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5844&d=1320688639

[crash]

Are you going with fixed front fenders and a smaller hood? I'm pondering that myself...


Nope. Just cutting out the stuff that will have minor changes done to it...:p

I was pondering last night and have decided that those front fenders will need to be cut in half AGAIN, so I think I will be approaching the 35 number of seperate pieces!

The rear is coming out spectacular, at least I think it is, and I have been documenting it all so at some point, hopefully, I will have some process videos to show all exactly what I have done. Don't want to show/say too much at this point, but while it is a slow process, it is coming along nicely. :)

I should note that one of my criteria for "coming out spectacular" is in the fact that I have made a bunch of performance enhancing improvements, yet the car should be recognizable as a GTM and really not look any different "at first glance" to a "normal" GTM. To me, this is actually much more difficult than taking the easy way out of just throwing some flares on and some wider tires and calling it good. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but it's not the look I'm going for here.

[Fraser D]

58905891I managed to sneak about an hour tonight to finish off the passenger side exhaust and induction. The driver’s side is tacked together and does not require too much to complete it. All that the engine bay needs is some wire wrapping and to fabricate the wing and latch mount. Man it’s getting hard to find time lately but I can't wait to get this thing fired up again to make sure that I have not screwed anything up during the reconfig.

[timmyboy]

^^^^^^^^wow^^^^^^^^^

[VD2021]

Created a list to decide what I will tackle this weekend.

[VD2021]

Vidal,

I'm liking the side vent inserts. How/Where/ and $$$?

Thomas#142. Tom is a vender on the other forum.

I'm fortunate in that Tom has moved back to Florida and his shop is only 1.5hrs away.

I'll have to check on the $ because I also have his rear deck spoiler with integrated LED brake light and a few other custom pieces he makes.

He is an extremely talented with composites and fabrication. His side window scoops are on a lot of GTMs (finished and still building). I actually got to help lay up the full side scoops on the molds last Friday.

Here's a link that has both the full behind the door scoop and the side window scoops.
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/262954-side-window-scoop.html

[lrt1941]

Decided to put antifreeze in my gtm 284 and try to start it. Glad I did because I have two leeks. One where the temperature sender goes into the block and the other the water pump it self. I think I may have broken the temp sender when I was trying to get the imi 140 starter in . Time to take it all apart. I hope I can get the water pump off with out pulling the motor.
Leonard

[VD2021]

Vidal,

I'm liking the side vent inserts. How/Where/ and $$$?

Tino,
I just spoke to Tom. The full scoops are $250 +shipping which may be about $40 to Canada.

I was going to stick with the standard opening even after looking at them in his shop in the summer. The eye-opener was when I saw them side by side with my then current opening. It immediately became apparent that my current little rectangle was inadequate compared to taking advantage of the full opening.

I considered adding louvers to the full door scoops before installing, but wanted to see them with the forward wheel well panel in place. After seeing it with the panel in I am going to leave it just as it is. I am not planning to put anything (not even a mesh) on the back side. It has a sinister look as it is. Once it's on the road and if there becomes a problem with debris then I'll consider a mesh, but as of now I plan on leaving it as is.

[VD2021]

Decided to put antifreeze in my gtm 284 and try to start it. Glad I did because I have two leeks. One where the temperature sender goes into the block and the other the water pump it self. I think I may have broken the temp sender when I was trying to get the imi 140 starter in . Time to take it all apart. I hope I can get the water pump off with out pulling the motor.
Leonard

Leonard,
Sometimes it seems we take a step forward and then two back. I've had a few of those on the build.

The good news is that you shouldn't have a problem removing the water pump. I took mine off so I could install the engine by myself and don't recall any problems putting it back on.

[The Stig]

Leonard,
Sometimes it seems we take a step forward and then two back. I've had a few of those on the build.

The good news is that you shouldn't have a problem removing the water pump. I took mine off so I could install the engine by myself and don't recall any problems putting it back on.

Hi Leonard,

Taking the pump off and putting it back on is pretty easy. But make sure, if you do this, to have a set of replacement gaskets. Some people get away with re-using the original gaskets, but you really don't want to keep taking the pump off. The gaskets are 3 or 4 dollars each at your local parts store.

Also, while you have the pump off, check the bolts that hold the rear cover on, to make sure that they are snug.

[lrt1941]

Vidal and Stig
Thanks for your input. The part that make me up set is that I had the engine gone thru and up graded before I put it in the car. The sending unit is not the problem for the first leak. Either the head has a plug that was left out or there is something wrong with the way the head was put on . Head gasket or O -ring. I hope I can get the water pump rebuilt. I will dig into it further .
Leonard

[VD2021]

Cut the passenger side full side air intake opening and prepped it for be glassed tomorrow.

[VD2021]

Glassed in the passenger side full air side intake scoop.

[lrt1941]

Replaced the water pump. Not to bad of a job and have the missing plug for the head on order from local chev dealer. All is well till the next screw up.
Leonard

[Fraser D]

610261036104Almost fished the driver’s side exhaust today.
Managed to complete the wiring routing and wrapping before the hardware went in.
Should be able to fire this thing up again during the week and I can't wait to do some donuts and go-cart the hell out of this thing before I start playing with the body work.
Vids to follow!!!

[VD2021]

Tires arrived and were mounted on the wheels.

[VD2021]

Created this weekend's plan for what I want to get accomplished this weekend.

[spytech]

flipped the front shocks the other day.

[VD2021]

flipped the front shocks the other day.

N,
Is it too late in the season for a test run to see how it feels now?

[Sheldon]

Adjusted the driver's seat... again... I think I have it where I want it now. I'm not overly tall, so I can't just put it against the firewall like a tall guy could. The car is ready for paint. I have to wait for a couple of weeks for that, so I'm just goofing off with a few odds and ends.

Jon Gen I

[fact5racer]

Worked on wiring, finished the headlights with a plug soa s to unplug the lights with one plug when removing the nose. Also played with wiper some. Gonna do some soundproofing this week before carpeting the interior.

[kabacj]

I opened the crate with my new Mendiola Transaxle!

Boy its a nice piece of hardware. Everything is put together very well. Every fastener, the safety wired parts, the paint pen marked bolts so you can see if they are tight, the cadmium plated parts. Super nice. Even the crate is well built! My son (7) wanted to use it as a toy box. Even kids can see how well made this stuff is. :)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6851&d=1324224023

[spytech]

N,
Is it too late in the season for a test run to see how it feels now?

V-

Unfortunately. The roads don't have snow, but tons of salt and don't want to get that crap on my car. Spring cant come soon enough now!

[kabacj]

Since I need to finish up welding on the frame, one of the things I did today was mount the AC accumulator. I needed to make sure none of my modifications interfered with the AC line routing as well as set the accumulator in place. I like when you mount something that I looks like it belongs there. I quickly fabricated a little bracket from some scrap 1 inch square tube. Its way stronger then it needs to be, but it holds the accumulator very nicely. And it was an excuse to fabricate something.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6860&d=1324264788

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6859&d=1324264788

This accumulator is just for mock up purposes. Ill put in the new one when I put the front together for the last time.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6858&d=1324264788

john

[Kempo]

Very nice work John. That weld is very clean too. I wish I could weld like that.

[The Stig]

I've been completely consumed by work (including weekends) since the middle of November. Since I got the GTM back into the Garage, I haven't had a chance to get started back on the tasks to finish it up. I did go out this weekend and "Start it up". The battery had drained down, so I had put the charger on it for an hour and then kick it over. After a few tries, it came back to life!

This brought the neighbors out, and over to my house for a look. It was pretty cool to see the big grins as they walked up the driveway and saw the GTM sitting there. I talked to them for 20 - 30 minutes explaining what it was and letting them look around it. Then I took it out for another drive around the block.

It's really cool to see the "double-takes" when people get their first glimpse of it coming around the corners. Lots of smiles, and thumbs up.

Life is good. :cool:

[LCD Gauges]

Bought a 5 inch tach, but it's not close enough to the ProComp series. Need to return it and wait for the back-ordered matching tach.

6890

[mendo]

I purchased the doner parts. should have them mid Jan. only thing missing at this point is the transmission. you all remember this stage of the build?

[LCD Gauges]

Not only do I remember that stage...I am AT that stage. I'll be taking notes to find out all that is needed, options, tips, etc.

[VD2021]

Installed rear anti-sway bar.

[LCD Gauges]

Found a place to store my car for two and a half months. :(

Getting specs on the motor, and chasing down a source for the transaxle.

Going to pick up some materials to continue prepping the hood (tomorrow and Wednesday).

It will be one of the last things I do before it goes away.

P.S. The pic looks good Big V. :cool:

[sk7500]

I know it's progress, but pulling the body for paint sure feels like a step back in time. It was Christmas last year when we put the body on and it was at least all one color. We still have some glass reinforcement to to on the inside and lots of block sanding to do but the body mods are DONE!!
Hopefully the next time I post there will be some red in the pictures.

[LCD Gauges]

Wow, nice shop space. May I have it?

I'm liking the fixed hood mod more and more, I'm just too chicken to attempt it.

[kabacj]

My Ohlins shocks were delivered last week and it was time to mount them. I could have taken the easy way out and mounted them using the FFR supplied 1/2 inch bolt. However as usual I could not take the easy way out and decided that I would upgrade the solution and hopefully get something that both looks cool and works a bit better. I was able to get larger custom end eyes for the shocks that were designed to be used in euro spec cars. These have larger metric ID bearings of course. The bearings will support larger loads as well as allow for a greater off set angle.

Because I was making each spacer or bushing from 303 stainless I could control the tolerances and managed to get the clearance down to .005 mm between the shock eye and the bushings. I then made up bushings to reduce the 1/2 inch FFR shock mount to 3/8ths and pressed in those spacers. I upgraded to extreme strength 450 stainless steel 12 point bolts . Mostly because I thought they looked cool, would be plenty strong, and of course since they are ARP are incredibly well made.

Finally I made up new collars that limit the side to side movement of my front anti roll bar. I just could not bring my self to mount cheap Chinese made galvanized steel collars on my pride an joy. Of course billet aluminum collars both look nice and are lighter weight. As they say light makes right.

Shown below is the shock upper mount with a set of bushings and reducers. I actually put a chamfer on the inside shoulder of the bushings to allow for full articulation of the shock eye. (not shown on the example bushing)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7217&d=1325644228

Very proud of these tolerances on my 1945 logan lathe. This baby was well cared for and still can put out quality parts, however soon as the GTM is done ill pony up for a quality CNC mill. Something about programming a tool path and spitting out parts is rather attractive after spending a day making 16 of the 32 parts I need.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7218&d=1325644090

Some billet locating collars for the ARB. Totally unnecessary but they make me happy.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7219&d=1325644228

John

[kabacj]

This weekend I mounted my adjustable seat brackets. I purchased the jegs units for 29 bucks then decided that I wanted to install them with the double locker. The annoying thing is they are not mirror image of each other . One locking mechanism lifts toward the front and one toward the back on the other when the seat mounting studs are facing inward.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7597&d=1327452430


After a little bit of noodling i decided to reverse one of the locking mechanisms. I had to move the pivot and reverse the bends in the mechanism itself. I did my best to channel a black smith and this is how it came out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7599&d=1327452434
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7598&d=1327452432
Next I wanted to cut off all the stuff on the latch that I would not use as it would hit the leather on the seat when I pulled the latch fully up. Sure its not a big deal but I was in it this deep why stop now

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7600&d=1327452436

I matched both sides and moved the spring attachment points to slightly decrease the pressure required to unlatch the locks.

I mounted the seats in the car and was very happy with the adjust ability and the ease of the action of the locks. The final step is to mount a u shaped actuator that will located just under the front lip of the seat. This way with one hand I can unlock both tracks while holding the steering wheel to pull myself forward or push myself back.

A minor convenience for sure, but it was a fun way to spend the day.

John

[Presto51]

Damn John your machine work is “wicked” cool. Nothing like “parts porn” to make the day go by

Thanks for sharing

Ron

[mendo]

I purchased the doner parts. should have them mid Jan. only thing missing at this point is the transmission. you all remember this stage of the build?



Got a big box full of doner parts

Got a motor in another box.

will be unpacking and inventorying this weekend.

here we go.

[rev2xs]

Mounted the doors in for the last time today. Installed my door seals in today. Seems like the door might be perfectly sealed too. Connected the headlights today and encounted a new problem while i was at it. My park lights both front and rear stopped working :( No idea whats caused it as the fuse is fine. So, i'll save myself a post in this thread and let you all guess what i will be doing tomorrow :(

[VD2021]

Picked up some and ordered the remainder of the parts in preparation of the magnasteer power steering install.

[lrt1941]

Put the napa pilot bearing in the crank need for the mendeola. Missed the socket that I was using and hit my finger with the hammer. ******* I think I!m number 15 on the waiting list.
Leonard

[mikespms]

76977698 Made brackets to mount the seat belts with out having to modify the seat belt mechanism and switching sides also adapted corvette cover .

[kabacj]

As many have noted the way you mount the corvette column with two bolts in line allows the wheel to flex a bit when you pull down or push up on it. Not a major deal, but I wanted it to be firmer. First I cleaned up the column and cut a piece of 2x2 square stock so it fit exactly parallel with the section perpendicular to the column that currently has the two mounting bolts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7786&d=1328585388

I welded the square piece on and painted it up.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7787&d=1328585390

Then installed it in the car. I had planned on welding in another slot on the frame to bolt the column to the frame but it was very firm without it. I might still go ahead and bolt it, but as long as the new support is parallel with the factory perch it really makes the wheel solid.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7788&d=1328585392

John

[Kempo]

Great idea John. I'm not happy with the movement on the column. I will be removing mine for this same fix. Thanks for sharing.

[fastthings]

Great idea John. I'm not happy with the movement on the column. I will be removing mine for this same fix. Thanks for sharing.

Yes, Thank you, for sharing. I like, and will use.

Gene

[mikespms]

77977798 I mounted the HUD and IP and modified the dash pad. But I had to modify the steering colunm mount to fit IP in dash.

[kabacj]

Finally I am nearly complete with my seat track install.

In order to have the seat perfectly centered relative to the wheel I needed to move the right hand side seat mounts inboard 1 inch to compensate for the width of the seat tracks. This allows you to move the seat right up to the tunnel in the same way as its designed by factory five without using seat tracks.

First I made and installed steel mounts and attached them to the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7897&d=1329189028

Note when the seat track is fully back it goes into the stock aluminum panel so I needed to make a cut out and filler piece. I proceeded to bend up a few of these.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7892&d=1329188979

I got those all mounted up and painted the bare steel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7896&d=1329189028

Got the stock panels trimmed and drilled

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7895&d=1329189028

Then proceeded to test the seat travel. First fully forward.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7893&d=1329189028

Then fully back.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7894&d=1329189028

By tipping the seat I can move the seat back over 8 inches. Ill test with some of my taller friends to see how they fit. I think tipping the seat really helps in the head room department. I find it more comfortable as well. I can raise the seat and tip it back so I have plenty of room for a helmet and good ergonomics with the pedals, shifter and wheel.


To wrap up the shifter install I welded in the frame and painted it all up when it was done.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7898&d=1329190410


John

[LCD Gauges]

Made arrangements to pickup my PCM and harness from the engine builder. I've also been sketching out some mods that I'd like to try (IE: reverse lights relocation, intake air box, push button start
electronic circuit build).

I'll post up some pics of the sketches and photos of the 'goods' after grabbing them tomorrow.

[mmaragos]

John (kabacj) - that is one heck of a job on the seat slider mounting. Solid and it looks great!

[kabacj]

Thanks Mmargos. It's funny when I look at the post I say. That should take a few hours. But that's the magic of the Internet. Sure it was a few hours of fab time but lots of head scratching and experimenting in between.

I like to see what others are doing so hopefully my posts are entertaining.

John

[VD2021]

Finally I am nearly complete with my seat track install.

In order to have the seat perfectly centered relative to the wheel I needed to move the right hand side seat mounts inboard 1 inch to compensate for the width of the seat tracks. This allows you to move the seat right up to the tunnel in the same way as its designed by factory five without using seat tracks.

First I made and installed steel mounts and attached them to the frame.


Note when the seat track is fully back it goes into the stock aluminum panel so I needed to make a cut out and filler piece. I proceeded to bend up a few of these.


I got those all mounted up and painted the bare steel.


Got the stock panels trimmed and drilled

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7895&d=1329189028

Then proceeded to test the seat travel. First fully forward.


Then fully back.


By tipping the seat I can move the seat back over 8 inches. Ill test with some of my taller friends to see how they fit. I think tipping the seat really helps in the head room department. I find it more comfortable as well. I can raise the seat and tip it back so I have plenty of room for a helmet and good ergonomics with the pedals, shifter and wheel.


To wrap up the shifter install I welded in the frame and painted it all up when it was done.



John

John,
I'm impressed more with each post of your fabrication. Keep the post coming.

Mid 70s to low 80s........................... I'll supply the gas and rods:)

[sk7500]

And because it makes me feel good to just look at it.
We got the body about 80% color sanded and polished. I burned holes in both doors and the hood. I repainted the hood and polished it inside and out to about 70%. Will have to respray the doors after the touch ups. but I think I'll color sand and polish the rear hatch, wing, mirrors and front splitter first. Maybe if I wait long enough the doors will fix themselves? probably not.:(

79047905790379027901

[LCD Gauges]

And because it makes me feel good to just look at it.
7904


:eek:
Oh my gaaaaaaaawwwwwwwd!

Look at that finish. :eek:

[kabacj]

And because it makes me feel good to just look at it.

WOW

Beautiful. That is surely work to be proud of.

Nice job.

John

[VD2021]

Reset the front shocks, completed the fix for the fix and reinstalled the front shocks in the correct orientation.

[VD2021]

C5 Donor Magnasteer Variable Assist Power Rack installed and wired into the Active handling traction control system.

[kabacj]

Rebuilt my Corvette CV joints.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8198&d=1330916556

Modified the Mendiola transaxle mount.

The mount sits right on top of the allen stud and lock nut that are used to adjust where reverse engages relative to the 1-5 pattern. With the mount installed there is no way to get an allen key in to make an adjustment. You can see ont this picture in between the green marks the little relief that was made to allow the mount to slip over the adjuster lock nut.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8196&d=1330916292



Then I measured how much room I would need to fit a 90 degree allen wrench fully into the nut. The cutout trace allows for the clearance. Unfortunately I have now chopped half of the width of my transaxle mount. I doubled it up in order to recover the strength. I think this mount is overbuilt anyway so im just restoring the fortitude of the mount. If you can I think its always better to have a stronger part then you need. I welded all the way around the brace.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8201&d=1330917152

This is how it looks installed on the transaxle.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8200&d=1330917150

John

[Edgeman]

Installed the kooks, ISIS Master cell, powercell and mega fues block. Had to move the front rad hose on the drivers side to fit the front powercell.

[crash]

The mount sits right on top of the allen stud and lock nut that are used to adjust where reverse engages relative to the 1-5 pattern. With the mount installed there is no way to get an allen key in to make an adjustment.

I don't have details about the Mendeola FFR SDR box, but do you need to make these adjustments? Is this what Mendeola recommends you do, as far as messing with adjustment screws?

Just wondering, as our boxes are pretty much ready to go right from Mendeola. :)

[kabacj]

I don't have details about the Mendeola FFR SDR box, but do you need to make these adjustments? Is this what Mendeola recommends you do, as far as messing with adjustment screws?

Just wondering, as our boxes are pretty much ready to go right from Mendeola. :)

Hey Crash,

It is not recommended to mess with this adjustment out of the box.

My mod is only to allow for future adjustment without removing the FFR mounting bracket. With my luck I will be at the track 55 hours away from my house. I ll have just come in off the track and the motor and exhaust will be blazing hot and ill need to make this adjustment or miss the last run of the day. ( I know I don’t go in reverse on the track but humor me) To make the adjustment with just the square relief cut that allows the bracket to connect to the transaxle but covers the allen stud, ill break out the drill /air saw and what ever else to thrash my way to access while sweating and cussing as I burn myself on the kooks exhaust. Remember the kooks exhaust are supported off of a stud welded to this bracket. Over active imagination.. maybe, however I know you have been there when you are at the track, and you had the chance to make something easier but you said hell Ill NEVER need to mess with that. Ill just leave it alone. I know its happened to me.

Well this little mod will allow me to cut down a normal allen key (even if I am in the middle of the Mojave desert on some runway I can find a normal allen wrench) and slip it down into the stud fully engaging the facets of the hex. (which is important because when its most critical to not strip something is when you strip it) and make this adjustment in 30 seconds. Ill be back out on the track disaster averted.

I thought about other ways to access the stud (one of those hex ball end wrenches or a custom tool that I make or changing the allen stud to a male square drive stud and this was the easiest way I could think of. This solution does not mess with the transaxle. The FFR bracket is roughly as strong as it was before I relieved the access area and if I need to make an adjustment is is a drama free process.

John

[kabacj]

This weekend I finished up my cooling system including the heater bypass upgrade offered by Crash. I tested the valve that promotes recirculation of coolant even when the heat is off using a miti vac pump and it looks like it will work fine. Even though I know there are plenty of GTMs running without the kit, I think it makes lots of sense to do this upgrade.

Next I spent a ton of time getting near 20 gallons in a single tank on the passenger side. As others have realized there is no other way to put the tank of this size behind the passenger seat then to remove two of the supporting bars from the frame.

It made me sad, but I cut out the two square tubes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8328&d=1331688475

after putting the motor in to confirm clearances i will weld in new cross bracing for the vertical hoop behind the passenger and driver as well as for the rear suspension pick up points that should more then account for the loss of these supports.

Next I mocked up my the fuel tank I drew in Google sketch up. It fits well with plenty of clearance all around the tank and the tank is fully inside the cage.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8320&d=1331684939

Finally I laid out the fill plate on the top of the tank inside the car. Ill need to modify the FFR supplied fill cap so it can take a 2.25 inch fill tube which matches the fill plate, but that should be easy enough.

I just wanted to show you guys how cool these fill plates are. This rubber flapper valve seals against the support structure behind it in the event of a roll over. A few years back it was common to use a large ball in a channel that would block the fuel flow like many shop vacs have. It turns out in a high G situation that ball would bend the cage that it rides in and render the valve useless.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8327&d=1331688474

[JCHRacer]

Got tired of how long the GTM was taking and bought a new toy to play with while I complete the GTM:

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad102/jchracer/GTM_20120327036.jpg

[The Stig]

Ok... Now that's just cheating; plain and simple... :cool:

Wish I could get one, and had somewhere to put it.




Got tired of how long the GTM was taking and bought a new toy to play with while I complete the GTM:

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad102/jchracer/GTM_20120327036.jpg

[kabacj]

That's awesome Joel. You beat me to it. I had my first opportunity to drive an indy car last year and I just have to have one. The performance is just amazing. The perfect blend between a motorcycle and car. Sadly, I have been banned from getting any other projects until the gtm is complete.

What chassis is that? Looks like a late 80s March Penske? I have been looking at 1200 cc motorcycle motor powered cars as I don't want a car that has lots of expensive hard to find components. BUT if the right car comes along...

Congratulations. Nice purchase.


John

[JCHRacer]

That's awesome Joel. You beat me to it. I had my first opertunity to drive an indy car last year and I just have to have one. The performance is just amazing. The perfect blend between a motorcycle and car. Sadly, I have been banned from getting any other projects until the gtm is complete.

What chassis is that? Looks like a late 80s March Penske? I have been looking at 1200 cc motorcycle motor powered cars as I don't want a car that has lots of expensive hard to find components. BUT if the right car comes along...

Congratulations. Nice purchase.


John

It's actually a Swift DB-4 Formula Atlantic. 1.6 ltr Toyota engine so the cost is not hateful. Lighter than an IndyCar but makes less power (~280 HP). Still it's REALLY fast. Should be fun.

[crash]

IIRC an Atlantic car is what holds the overall track record at Thunderhill, where the 25 hour race is held every year. Atlantic cars are WICKED fast, but the engines do require a bit of maintainance. Not sure I would feel real safe running one at speed with others on the track though, and depending upon the track layout, I might not even feel safe running it by myself! Great car though.

My former employer bought an ex Gurney 1996 vintage Indy car for $40k with TONS of spares. It was almost two cars worth of stuff.

There are certainly some "deals" to be had on race cars right now.

[VD2021]

Took the GTM down from the jack stands Sunday after almost two months. Took it for a drive this evening, around the neighborhood, to test the magnasteer power steering addition.

[Kalstar]

Picked the final color. I will say it will be one of a kind.

[Edgeman]

I had installed the fix for the belt pulley from Shane At VRaptor. I had to get my lathe out and cut it into two pieces, then machine the ends down. With out the lathe would have been hard to get them straight. Also had ordered the hatch props will install at a later date. Thanks again for the great work Shane.

8522852185238524

[Roger Reid]

Put the motor in tonight. Puts new meaning to the word shoehorn. The motor was a thing of beauty. Headers, ac pump, serpintine system, and thermostat had to be removed to get the engine in. At least I didnt have to remove the clutch. Now that the motor is in I get to put all those things back in.

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mjollnirgtm/184.jpg
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mjollnirgtm/186.jpg
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mjollnirgtm/191.jpg
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mjollnirgtm/192.jpg
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mjollnirgtm/193.jpg
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mjollnirgtm/194.jpg

[kabacj]

Awesome Roger! Not long till you are lighting up those slicks!

[rev2xs]

How was it?


Took the GTM down from the jack stands Sunday after almost two months. Took it for a drive this evening, around the neighborhood, to test the magnasteer power steering addition.

[VD2021]

How was it?

Just like it was in the donor.

The effort required to turn the wheel, while not moving and at low speed feels close to how it did with the manual rack. I can turn the wheel with a finger with the GTM at a standstill, but not with the ease of a luxury car.

A lot of the feedback that was felt with the manual rack is gone and I like how it gets stiffer as the speed increases. I also like that it takes less time to get going when I back out of my driveway because I'm not turning the wheel for three minutes. Its 2 1/4 turns from lock to lock so it’s a lot quicker than the manual rack.

It's a nice to have, but I wouldn't put it in the must have list.

[rev2xs]

Cool, how much does the magnasteer system suited for the GTM go for these days?


Just like it was in the donor.

The effort required to turn the wheel, while not moving and at low speed feels close to how it did with the manual rack. I can turn the wheel with a finger with the GTM at a standstill, but not with the ease of a luxury car.

A lot of the feedback that was felt with the manual rack is gone and I like how it gets stiffer as the speed increases. I also like that it takes less time to get going when I back out of my driveway because I'm not turning the wheel for three minutes. Its 2 1/4 turns from lock to lock so it’s a lot quicker than the manual rack.

It's a nice to have, but I wouldn't put it in the must have list.

[LCD Gauges]

Sanding down more flash today, and remove tape residue. I might even order some headers!

[crash]

Cool, how much does the magnasteer system suited for the GTM go for these days?

Vidal can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you need all the Vette electronics to make that system work properly. It is not your average build we have here.

[VD2021]

Vidal can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you need all the Vette electronics to make that system work properly. It is not your average build we have here.

You're correct.

The EBTCM controls the a magnetic actuator that varies the steering effort, but the rack requires the entire traction control system to function fully.

[mikespms]

You're correct.

The EBTCM controls the a magnetic actuator that varies the steering effort, but the rack requires the entire traction control system to function fully.

I am not shure if you can, but you might be able to make it work with out the body control module. In the corvette all system modules comunicate thru the star connectors and the bcm connects to the data link. you would need to bypass the bcm and a link from the ebtcm to the pcm and use the harness of the ebtcm that conects to the abs, traction control and steering sensors inputs and outputs with the magnasteer rack also need the corvette engine driven p/s pump.

[VD2021]

I am not shure if you can, but you might be able to make it work with out the body control module. In the corvette all system modules comunicate thru the star connectors and the bcm connects to the data link. you would need to bypass the bcm and a link from the ebtcm to the pcm and use the harness of the ebtcm that conects to the abs, traction control and steering sensors inputs and outputs with the magnasteer rack also need the corvette engine driven p/s pump.

It may be easier to just keep/add the BCM. It may work, but I don't think I'd add it without the complete system. The steering wheel position sensor and the lateral accelerometer are two important items of the system. And if you're adding these the BCM is only one more module. If you install this without the BCM you should plan on working through a lot of trouble codes and emulating the nodes on the bus, relative to any DTC that would put the rack into a service mode. Just my 0.02 cents.

[mikespms]

It may be easier to just keep/add the BCM. It may work, but I don't think I'd add it without the complete system. The steering wheel position sensor and the lateral accelerometer are two important items of the system. And if you're adding these the BCM is only one more module. If you install this without the BCM you should plan on working through a lot of trouble codes and emulating the nodes on the bus, relative to any DTC that would put the rack into a service mode. Just my 0.02 cents.

Hi Vidal, You're right ,but when I rerouted the wiring I think that all of those sensors run to the ebtcm as an independent system and use the bcm as the link. But the best safe and easy way is to use the complete corvette system like we did, it was just an idea that it might work as a stand alone .

[VD2021]

Hi Vidal, You're right ,but when I rerouted the wiring I think that all of those sensors run to the ebtcm as an independent system and use the bcm as the link. But the best safe and easy way is to use the complete corvette system like we did, it was just an idea that it might work as a stand alone .

Yeah, I concur. Especially when something as simple as unplugging the hazard swt causes a DTC and the system to go into service mode.

[Roger Reid]

Got the transaxle installed. What a bear.

Now I can measure the axle length.

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mjollnirgtm/005.jpg

[VD2021]

Met Spdmon2791 and Jeremy of Fastproms. Kbentzel was also there with his GTM.

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/vd2021/IMG_20120427_101458.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/vd2021/IMG_20120427_101412.jpg

[sk7500]

Wish I could say it was as easy as changing a tire but it wasn't. I can say it was 10 times easier than putting in the ABS cover that came with the kit. The only hard part is our car is almost ready to put the body back on and it's kind of awkward working and arms length in the foot well. But the Shane's kit was well worth the money and I wish is would have put it in a long time ago instead of just following the GTM instruction manual. Pulling in air from behind the radiator and trying to cool it and blow in into the interior just doesn't make sense.

[kabacj]

I got some great news today. FINALLY all the parts have arrived to complete my motor. Mast sent me this shot of the first bank of Hillbornes installed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9497&d=1336005680

[Arrowhead]

Those stacks are gonna look pretty sexy John, very nice.

[cmainor]

Ding-friggin'-DANG!!! You GO big boy!!!

[VD2021]

Decided last night NOT to go with the power seats. I was planning to use the donor power seat tracks (modified) as Mike (MikesPMS) did. Mike and I (mostly mike) spent a few hours grinding/fitting/prepping one of my seats to accept the modified donor power seat track. Last night I was able to set the seat in the car, sit in it and make a decision. I also considered potential passenger fit.

[Edgeman]

1037010371
My Dad sent these pictures on Fathers Day. This was his latest project after working on the Paddle Wheeler with the Steam Engine. I need to get back to the garage.

[VD2021]

......Nothing:)......Well I did stare at it for about 30 seconds when I had to grab something from the garage this evening.

[mendo]

Bolted the rear suspension on and installed the axles to measure the distance between them to explore transmission options.

[docglock]

I started working on the brake line routing. I decided to modify the front bracket the same way as RumRunner did.

http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/2012/07/brake-line-bracket-front.html

[kabacj]

Based on the advice from Kempo and Joe Mush I swapped out my clutch master cylinder from 3/4 to 13/16. This is the hot setup for the Mendiola Transaxle as it will prevent driving the clutch slave cylinder too far and damaging the clutch return fingers.

The mounting bosses on the willwood master cylinders always bothered me so I removed them off the front and rear brake and the old clutch master cylinder.

Of course that means I needed to remove them from the new 13/16 master cylinder.

This is what they looked like before.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10906&d=1343615089

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10905&d=1343615087

and after

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10903&d=1343615084

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10904&d=1343615085

Another thing that nobody sees but me, however it makes me happy.

John

[The Stig]

Started working on the seat belt install. Got partially through the set up of the seat belts, and then learned that my plumbing in the house was showing signs of backing up. Called the plumber, who charged me 315.00 for 30 minutes of work to clear the blockage. Turned out that a root had grown into one of the joints on the main line going out, cause it to split. "Joe the Plumber" quoted me $1000.00 + dollars, (above the $315.00 that I had already paid), to fix the problem.

He quoted me a rate of $177.00/hr plus materials. Estimated 4+ hours to do the work. I thought to myself, "Not in my lifetime"...

So my neighbor and I dug it up, and replace the bad parts, and covered it back up. Took us an hour to dig it out, and about 45 minutes to change the joints and line, and 15 minutes to cover back up. The temp was well into the high 90's, and I was spent afterwards...

Needless to say, that my time in the garage was cut short for the day... But I saved $1000.00 from "Joe the Plumber".

Materials cost me $26.00.

So it was a very productive day!

[crash]

Yeah, I'm always amazed at what plumbers charge. It's like they went to medical school or something. On the other hand, if I was a plumber, I would probably charge big $$ too as the job description usually involves dealing with other peoples...poo...so to speak.

[VD2021]

Yeah. I definitely think the poo factor has a huge role in their rates.lol

[JCHRacer]

Plumbed up the master cylinders. Purchased some banjo's and a slick banjo bolt with integral pressure sensor switch (eliminates the installation and adjustment hassle of the mechanical actuated switch). Cleaned up the look and leaves the bleeders in the correct location.

10916 10917

[crash]

Plumbed up the mater cylinders.



As in "Tow Mater"? LOL

That banjo sensor is pretty cool. Where did you get it?

[Kempo]

Plumbed up the mater cylinders. Purchased some banjo's and a slick banjo bolt with integral pressure sensor switch (eliminates the installation and adjustment hassle of the mechanical actuated switch). Cleaned up the look and leaves the bleeders in the correct location.

10916 10917

Joel,
That same switch came stock in my Atom. I had two of them fail before making a mechanical switch an replacing that one with a regular banjo bolt. Thankfully my failures were just leaks around the plastic area where the wires come out. Others at the Atom club forum reported complete failures. This allowed all the pressure to escape from the system and a complete loss of brakes occurred on that master cylinder. If you still plan to use it do it in the rear wheels master cylinder. In case it fails you will still have some stopping power at the front.

[JCHRacer]

As in "Tow Mater"? LOL

That banjo sensor is pretty cool. Where did you get it?

Got this one at Pegasus Racing.

[JCHRacer]

Joel,
That same switch came stock in my Atom. I had two of them fail before making a mechanical switch an replacing that one with a regular banjo bolt. Thankfully my failures were just leaks around the plastic area where the wires come out. Others at the Atom club forum reported complete failures. This allowed all the pressure to escape from the system and a complete loss of brakes occurred on that master cylinder. If you still plan to use it do it in the rear wheels master cylinder. In case it fails you will still have some stopping power at the front.

Thanks for the feedback, it is on the rear brakes and I will keep a close eye on it. I have gotten good feedback from other people that have used them on their race cars without incident. Not a big fan of complete brake failure....now I'm nervous....any special circumstances involved?

[Kempo]

any special circumstances involved?

Not really some car like mine are cars that are used mostly at the track. In other cases they were street driven cars. The second one I installed started leaking fluid when I was bleeding the system after installing it. My car is used 90% of the time on track that is why I decided to remove that part from the car. Didn't want to have that in the back of my mind every time I braked.

[sk7500]

Started working on the seat belt install. Got partially through the set up of the seat belts, and then learned that my plumbing in the house was showing signs of backing up. Called the plumber, who charged me 315.00 for 30 minutes of work to clear the blockage. Turned out that a root had grown into one of the joints on the main line going out, cause it to split. "Joe the Plumber" quoted me $1000.00 + dollars, (above the $315.00 that I had already paid), to fix the problem.

He quoted me a rate of $177.00/hr plus materials. Estimated 4+ hours to do the work. I thought to myself, "Not in my lifetime"...

So my neighbor and I dug it up, and replace the bad parts, and covered it back up. Took us an hour to dig it out, and about 45 minutes to change the joints and line, and 15 minutes to cover back up. The temp was well into the high 90's, and I was spent afterwards...

Needless to say, that my time in the garage was cut short for the day... But I saved $1000.00 from "Joe the Plumber".

Materials cost me $26.00.

So it was a very productive day!

Wow! I thought I had a wasted day after breaking a window regulator. It just goes to prove. The worst day of working on the GTM is better than the best day of digging sewer pipes. On the other hand, now you have to use the money you saved on the GTM? :D At least that's what I would tell my wife. Sometimes it even works!

[LCD Gauges]

Did some run-around for the transaxle payments (at the bank), and did some more body work on the hood. I guess my goal is to finish the front end before the transaxle arrives, and then start cleaning
the dust off the frame. I don't think I'll achieve "Kempo Clean Status", but a good spray down of the body, and garage floor is in order.

I've set a goal to have the go-kart rolling by the end of September. Place your bets.

It appears everyone else is making progress with their projects. I'm jealous!

[JCHRacer]

Not really some car like mine are cars that are used mostly at the track. In other cases they were street driven cars. The second one I installed started leaking fluid when I was bleeding the system after installing it. My car is used 90% of the time on track that is why I decided to remove that part from the car. Didn't want to have that in the back of my mind every time I braked.

What kind of brake fluid are you running? Pegasus said the only reported problems have been with people running silicone (DOT5) brake fluid.

[Kempo]

I use ATE super blue and ATE TYP 200. They are both DOT4.

http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/us/en/ate/ate/themes/20_ate_brake_products/brake_fluid/download/888100003548_MSDS_Original_ATE_Brake_Fluid_SUPER_B LUE_RACING_DOT4_blau_US_E.pdf

[noother]

Ordered 9.9 lbs of carbon-kevlar and fabric
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/noother268/1100408387.jpg

[kabacj]

Noother,

I see a picture of recaro seat. Are you building a new seat with your carbon kevlar?

I am in the market for a full containment seat but not sure what will fit. Lots of companies out there that focus on the NASCAR and sprint car crowd that will build a custom seat, but that takes time.

Im interested in what solution you chose for a seat.

John

[noother]

Yep, Recaro Pro Racer SPG Hans. The only reason I think it will work is because I moved the driver almost five inches inboard by replacing the botton frame of the tunnel directly under the upper frames. This gained me almost an inch of headroom and gets my head away from the halo bar. I'm 5'9" by the way so I can afford to sit a little more upright and designing it primarily for myself.

I also found a smokin deal on the seat at $1200, Ebay. New, but has a few scratches and a fabric tear behind the left shoulder. This aint no show car anyway, I plan to track it alot.

Worst case it doesn't fit and I have to put it in the Cayman. I'll start a post when I get it here and fit it.

Mark

[crash]

That's a great looking seat, and I hope it serves you well, but I also wanted to warn others that many of the "carbon" or "kevlar" seats you see on sites like ebay are TIMED OUT. There is a useful life to pretty much anything, and in sanctioned racing events, anything made out of a composite material that has to do with safety will generally time out in 5 years from the date of manufacture. This is why you will see the date stamps on the products and why you will also see 5+ year old seats, helmets, HANS devices, etc for sale very cheaply on auction sites. Not saying they don't have plenty of life still left in them. Not saying that what we see here with noother's seat has any issues what so ever, just stating what a potential issue is with these types of seats so a buyer can be aware. This IS an issue that is looked at very closely and given very little lieniency by sanctioning bodies, so if you plan to track the car in a snactioned event, make sure the date stamps don't make the item "out of date".

[noother]

Good point Crash, where would we be with out you? To keep this thread on track I'll start a new seat thread soon with SCCA and NASA particulars.

What did I do on my GTM today? Spent hours on the internet trying to figure out how to get a seemingly simple job done.

Mark

[docglock]

I ran the hard coolant lines today. However, I wrapped them first in insulator tape (same as used for headers). I didn't have the lower radiator hose for the modification for the upper radiator connection, so I ordered the part from Corvette Salvage, and got around to ordering the header tank and heater by-pass from Crash.

[VD2021]

Backed it out to attempt a garage cleanup and to reorganize some items. This was cut short due to Florida summer showers.

[VD2021]

Not GTM, but related in many ways.......

Met Yos from the gt40s/SLC Clubhouse forum and took a look at his LS9 SL-C build. Great Guy and nice car. He'll be by next week end to see the GTM build.

[flotowngtm]

VD2021,

Do you know what Trans that is your buddy has in that SLC?

[VD2021]

VD2021,

Do you know what Trans that is your buddy has in that SLC?

F,
It's a G96.50.

[Edgeman]

Well after a month with very little done on the car I did get a day in. I painted the inner door frames. It was a scorcher today paint was baked on, along with the clear. 110741107511076

[Fraser D]

I had a little fun after not getting any car work done for the best part of two months.
Split the rear hatch as I don’t like the idea of removing the rear wing every time I want to pop the hood to check things out.
Using the Targa top latch from my donor to keep it secured with the rear clip being held on with dezus fasteners.
I am still playing with the mounting bracket.

[sk7500]

My wife was out of town so I had some time with the mistress this weekend.
I aligned the doors and rear hatch. Installed and adjusted side windows, regulators actuators and speakers. Installed and wired Amp Crossovers and Sub woofer. It sounds awesome even if it is playing into a tin can without a windshield. Can't wait to hear it once the interior is in. The doors close great but I still have some work to do on the door seals.

[sk7500]

I was also able to install the Rear window, diffuser, wing and accent lighting.

[rev2xs]

What door seal did you use?


My wife was out of town so I had some time with the mistress this weekend.
I aligned the doors and rear hatch. Installed and adjusted side windows, regulators actuators and speakers. Installed and wired Amp Crossovers and Sub woofer. It sounds awesome even if it is playing into a tin can without a windshield. Can't wait to hear it once the interior is in. The doors close great but I still have some work to do on the door seals.

[sk7500]

The door seals are from a Ford Taurus.

[docglock]

I love what you've done with the engine bay lighting!

[The Stig]

I was also able to install the Rear window, diffuser, wing and accent lighting.

Now that's how the hatch/glass should be fitted in these cars!

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Other%20GTMs/rearwindow.jpg

Steve, that looks perfect!

Mike

[Fraser D]

Now that's how the hatch/glass should be fitted in these cars!

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Other%20GTMs/rearwindow.jpg

Steve, that looks perfect!

Mike


My hatch glass is not even close to being that straight as supplied from FF5!
I need to fix it soon but after hearing horror stories about exploding glass I keep putting it off.
After seeing how nice Steve made his I will just have to grow a pair and make it happen.
Very nice fit and finish!

[kabacj]

Steve. Did you grind down the hatch glass? How did you do it?

Thanks.

John

[Kalstar]

Chewing up sand paper. 1116211161111601115511156111571115811159

[sk7500]

I worked on and drove the car for about a year and put on about a 1000 miles before pulling it apart for paint. So I'm pretty confident we'll be happy with the long term durability of this window. And if it does get beat up I'm only into it about $200. I'll replace it with a fresh one. I have a great pattern. I knew a long time ago that the back glass that came with the kit was never going to make me happy. It's the one area I really have a problem with. Body fitment is just one of those things that can make me feel really good if it's right and ruin my day if it's off. Once I figured I was never going to have a fit with the stock glass I decided to go with a polycarbonate window. I went down to the local hardware store, bought a 4X4 piece of 1/8" Lexan, laid it over the stock window as a pattern. Cut it out with a jigsaw, filed and sanded until I got the shape right and temporarily glued it in place for a year to see what engine temp and normal wear and tear would do. I also did some work to the rear hatch to make it match the shape of the body - 3/16" (final glass thickness). I'm sorry I don't have some better pictures, but look at the upper edge of the hatch and see how I had to add almost 1/2" to the center of the area that is closest to the body. If you can build up the hatch to match the body shape when you install the poly window it will take that perfect body shape. I think its important that you block and finish the new FG work because if it's wavy you're poly window will take that shape and you'll have waves in your glass.
After I painted the car I ordered a piece of polycarbonate 3/16" Hard faced on both sides from Mc Master Carr. I used the old window as a template and cut, filed and polished the edges of the new window. Then I cut the black out mask and found out how hard the hard facing really is. I wanted to sand the area I was going to spray black but it was too hard to sand. I wound up using a sanding sponge and even that did not do a great job. A light glass bead blasting would probably be best. I just sanded it as best I could and sprayed it black on the inside. Then on the first 105 degree day I put the window in the sun to soften it while I applied a liberal bead of window adhesive to the hatch. After the window was good and hot I put it in place and Gorilla taped the side edges down and let it sit over night. Next day pulled of the mask and Gorilla tape and cleaned the window with Liquid glass and a Microfiber wiping towel. The hard faced Polycarbonate is what they make safety glasses out of so it's extremely scratch resistant and I can vouch for that. I don't think I would try cleaning it with newspaper, but I have no problem rubbing it with a clean Microfiber towel. The 3/16 thickness and the natural curve make the window very strong and yes if you push hard enough in the middle you can deflect it. But it is crystal clear without any distortion. It's not like the headlight covers.

One other thing I did was reinforce the window frame because I suspect the stock glass is uses as a stiffener. I wont be able to use the stock lifting shocks because between the wing and rear louvers the hatch is pretty heavy.

Mike,
this is something you could do to your car without having to do any repaint work. Then after a couple years and a few thousand miles of road rash you could always pull this window out and have your body reshaped to the stock glass and then repaint. The problem is I didn't think I could make the stock glass fit the body and look right for for our car period. And I'm not afraid of a little body work. :)

And finally Polycarbonate is what they make bullet proof glass from so you are safe from bullets from the rear! :D



Steve. Did you grind down the hatch glass? How did you do it?

Thanks.

John

[LCD Gauges]

Slowly plugging away at the body work, and starting to get the engine ready for the transaxle delivery (month end).

Fraser,

Your engine looks insane! I love how you mounted the intercoolers as well. I'm going with a similar concept with my hatch, and intake location. I'm just torn between permanently securing the back half to the
main body, or using fasteners like yourself.

Are you planning to install some sort of seal to close the gap between the hatch, and rear section?

[Fraser D]

Slowly plugging away at the body work, and starting to get the engine ready for the transaxle delivery (month end).

Fraser,

Your engine looks insane! I love how you mounted the intercoolers as well. I'm going with a similar concept with my hatch, and intake location. I'm just torn between permanently securing the back half to the
main body, or using fasteners like yourself.

Are you planning to install some sort of seal to close the gap between the hatch, and rear section?

Thanks and I am planning on using soft seal on a weather lip between the two halves.
I am still waiting on my wing mounts and brackets to come back from the machine shop to complete the rear frame, its cover and make the slots in the rear hatch section. Once that is done I will have the body back off and post some pictures of how all of that is mounted to the trans frame and how the top part is removable.
The cooler on the driver’s side is for engine oil hooked up through a remote filter and the other is the trans cooler. When I first started this everyone was freaking out about engine bay temps and associated heat soak so I took extra precautions to compensate for the temp increase from the turbo’s. in hind sight a little overkill but at the very least I have two fans to draw hot air out of the engine bay when stationary.

[VD2021]

Did a general clean up in the garage as I prepare to start-up again after basicly taking the last two months away from the build.

I also saw Mikes Cartoonized Pic and created this: :cool:

[Kempo]

Vidal, that's one cool picture and site. I did one as well. Thanks for sharing.


11218

[Edgeman]

Those pictures would look GREAT in this years Calendar.

[RumRunner]

Finally got around to mocking up my interior. I used a center console I had fabricated by Front Panel Express. In case anyone cares, the switch above the stereo allows me to view either my front or rear camera at any time. The stereo still displays the rear camera automatically when in reverse. And I did have to get both driver's and passengers dash pods completely recovered. The material was pulling up badly from all the concave areas on the driver's pod, and the passenger pod had to be recovered because I had to move the vent and right edge toward the middle of the car about an inch to clear the door panels. $250 total to completely re-cover both with a very similar material. Dropped it off one day, and it was ready two days later.

112691127011271

Also showing for the first time my 3-gauge cluster. Fits really well within the view line of the Momo steering wheel.

1127211273

And lastly I installed two 5-inch waterproof fans in the diffuser to keep air moving when at a standstill. I'll probably just run them all the time.

1127411275

-Michael

[Kempo]

Very nice Michael!!!

[RumRunner]

Very nice Michael!!!

Thanks Hugo. Just trying to keep up (catch up) with you! You're build looks amazing. Has Junior turned his first wrench yet?

-M

[VD2021]

Michael,
Outstanding!

[Kempo]

You're build looks amazing. Has Junior turned his first wrench yet?

-M

Thanks Michael. Not yet, and I'm worried. Because when he does it will most likely be against some kind of painted surface that will not be compatible with any wrench type. :-)

[Kalstar]

11321

It's in primer, note some of the body mods we are doing....... More mods will be apparent once nose, hood, doors and hatch can be seen..

[Joe Mush]

The roof and side scoops look great.

[docglock]

I am working on building an electronic brake for the parking brake. This will replace the convention hand brake with a rocker switch connected to a actuator that retracts and releases the brake cable. I also plan to incorporate Mastershift paddle shifters on the steering column.

[Edgeman]

With some help from my Dad (X Body Man) we installed the doors. Also with the lathe he machined up some new door posts. What a task to compete.

[LCD Gauges]

More body work, and gathered some items for the trip to Buffalo tomorrow. If anyone is near the Clarence area, let me know! I'll be picking up the transaxle in the morning, but should have some time
around noon for a bite to eat/drink.

[lrt1941]

The mendola with 3:55 came today. Hope to start instillation this next week.
Leonard

[LCD Gauges]

Gonna roll'er outside for some sunshine, and clean-up all the dust from body work. Then the body will come off to allow access for the motor/transaxle install over this coming week.
I'm actually getting butterflies thinking about the possiblity of firing up the motor within a month (or thereabouts). Haven't felt the rumble of a V8 against my body for almost 2 years!
(really missin' the SS this Summer).

[sk7500]

I upholstered the engine and console cover, cut down the dash to fit with the body on, fabed the door seal lips and all the interior panels. I plan to
Dynamat the stock FFR panels on the passenger side, and with a thermal barrier on the engine and tunnel side. Then I'll put another thermal layer on the engine side of these aluminum panels and landau foam on the passenger side before stretching the leather. I know it's too much to ask for a cool quiet interior. I just hope this strategy gives us a less hot and less noisy interior.

[kabacj]

I worked on and drove the car for about a year and put on about a 1000 miles before pulling it apart for paint. So I'm pretty confident we'll be happy with the long term durability of this window. And if it does get beat up I'm only into it about $200. I'll replace it with a fresh one. I have a great pattern. I knew a long time ago that the back glass that came with the kit was never going to make me happy. It's the one area I really have a problem with. Body fitment is just one of those things that can make me feel really good if it's right and ruin my day if it's off. Once I figured I was never going to have a fit with the stock glass I decided to go with a polycarbonate window. I went down to the local hardware store, bought a 4X4 piece of 1/8" Lexan, laid it over the stock window as a pattern. Cut it out with a jigsaw, filed and sanded until I got the shape right and temporarily glued it in place for a year to see what engine temp and normal wear and tear would do. I also did some work to the rear hatch to make it match the shape of the body - 3/16" (final glass thickness). I'm sorry I don't have some better pictures, but look at the upper edge of the hatch and see how I had to add almost 1/2" to the center of the area that is closest to the body. If you can build up the hatch to match the body shape when you install the poly window it will take that perfect body shape. I think its important that you block and finish the new FG work because if it's wavy you're poly window will take that shape and you'll have waves in your glass.
After I painted the car I ordered a piece of polycarbonate 3/16" Hard faced on both sides from Mc Master Carr. I used the old window as a template and cut, filed and polished the edges of the new window. Then I cut the black out mask and found out how hard the hard facing really is. I wanted to sand the area I was going to spray black but it was too hard to sand. I wound up using a sanding sponge and even that did not do a great job. A light glass bead blasting would probably be best. I just sanded it as best I could and sprayed it black on the inside. Then on the first 105 degree day I put the window in the sun to soften it while I applied a liberal bead of window adhesive to the hatch. After the window was good and hot I put it in place and Gorilla taped the side edges down and let it sit over night. Next day pulled of the mask and Gorilla tape and cleaned the window with Liquid glass and a Microfiber wiping towel. The hard faced Polycarbonate is what they make safety glasses out of so it's extremely scratch resistant and I can vouch for that. I don't think I would try cleaning it with newspaper, but I have no problem rubbing it with a clean Microfiber towel. The 3/16 thickness and the natural curve make the window very strong and yes if you push hard enough in the middle you can deflect it. But it is crystal clear without any distortion. It's not like the headlight covers.

One other thing I did was reinforce the window frame because I suspect the stock glass is uses as a stiffener. I wont be able to use the stock lifting shocks because between the wing and rear louvers the hatch is pretty heavy.

Mike,
this is something you could do to your car without having to do any repaint work. Then after a couple years and a few thousand miles of road rash you could always pull this window out and have your body reshaped to the stock glass and then repaint. The problem is I didn't think I could make the stock glass fit the body and look right for for our car period. And I'm not afraid of a little body work. :)

And finally Polycarbonate is what they make bullet proof glass from so you are safe from bullets from the rear! :D


Steve. Thanks for the detailed write up. I think polycarbonate is the way to go. The hard faced is an even better option.

I was thinking of making a bubble in the center of the window to increase the area above my intakes. Polycarbonate would be a great way to do that.

Thanks again.

John

[sk7500]

John,
I'm not sue how the hard facing would react to a severe bending. I would suggest buying a small piece and trying it first. As for creating a bubble, I went to a shop that made the windshields for helicopters and I can tell you how they make the bubble windows. If you don't already have a plan.


Steve. Thanks for the detailed write up. I think polycarbonate is the way to go. The hard faced is an even better option.

I was thinking of making a bubble in the center of the window to increase the area above my intakes. Polycarbonate would be a great way to do that.

Thanks again.

John

[VD2021]

John,
I'm not sue how the hard facing would react to a severe bending. I would suggest buying a small piece and trying it first. As for creating a bubble, I went to a shop that made the windshields for helicopters and I can tell you how they make the bubble windows. If you don't already have a plan.

Steve,
Isn't it heated (baked) and then set on/into a mold to cool???

[sk7500]

The ones I seen heated the pre cut shape, clamped it into a perimeter mold and then injected air into a cavity beneath the heated plastic. They injected air until the softened plastic ballooned out and broke a laser beam. They stopped injecting air and let it cool in that shape. They then took the formed pc to a light room that had a giant grid pattern on the wall to check for distortion. It was pretty amazing how distortion free they were considering the shape.

Steve,
Isn't it heated (baked) and then set on/into a mold to cool???

[Edgeman]

I have been thinking about building a cover for around the tensioner. Is it needed? Just looking at what will happen to the cover (water fall) if this thing lets go.
Thanks,

11542

[LCD Gauges]

Cut, and "aligned" right front inner tie-rod. Buzzed off more rust on the left rear caliper, and primed it.
Washed some dust, and dirt from the rims.

Got leads on motor mounts/brackets too! Engine drop EToC: next Saturday.

[sk7500]

From looking at the pictures all I got done was Dynamat the passenger side and upholster the dash and reinstall. I did start laying down the carpet pad and cut the passenger carpet. Doesn't seem like much for probably 20 hours work. Good thing I don't get paid by the hour.

[kabacj]

From looking at the pictures all I got done was Dynamat the passenger side and upholster the dash and reinstall. I did start laying down the carpet pad and cut the passenger carpet. Doesn't seem like much for probably 20 hours work. Good thing I don't get paid by the hour.

Steve I know exactly how you feel. Some times its amazing doing what looks like so little take so much time. Of course its fun, and the result is an amazing car. Everything will look just like a factory car that we all take for granted. Keep up the good work.

John

[kabacj]

I have been thinking about building a cover for around the tensioner. Is it needed? Just looking at what will happen to the cover (water fall) if this thing lets go.
Thanks,

11542

Hey Doug.

I am going to make a new cover out of aluminum plate. I'm not so worried about the belts. The lorring timing association requires a fireproof barrier between the passenger and engine. I could probably just cover the inside of the fiberglass with foil tape but making a cover will be fun.

John

[Kalstar]

Prayed to the god of paint... "please get my car in color this week".

[docglock]

I got the hatch latch installed today!

http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/2012/09/rear-hatch-latch.html

[Edgeman]

Hey Doug.

I am going to make a new cover out of aluminum plate. I'm not so worried about the belts. The lorring timing association requires a fireproof barrier between the passenger and engine. I could probably just cover the inside of the fiberglass with foil tape but making a cover will be fun.

John

I like taking on new tasks and I think it is a good little project. I will post a picture when I am done.

[kabacj]

I like taking on new tasks and I think it is a good little project. I will post a picture when I am done.

Oh yeah, Im with you on that one. Making a guard will be fun. There are those holes in the pully support that need to be used ;)

Loooking fwd to see what you come up with.

John

[docglock]

The roof scoop is now a permanent part of the car.

http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/2012/09/roof-scoop.html

[LCD Gauges]

I did something totally unnecessary; I test fitted the engine in the car knowing it would have to be removed in order to paint the aluminum panels. Call me crazy, or wasteful...but at least I know there are no issues dropping it in!
:P

1180811806
Here's a little trick to give the hoist legs enough clearance to roll under the control arms
11807

You know what really sucks though? I'm actually self conscious about my car, and how dirty the wheels, and parts of the cage remain.
I spent days cleaning the garage floor, and cage to prep for this, and it;s still not very clean. Kempo, and Stig you are to blame (mostly)!

Sometimes I wish my car wasn't sitting in a field before buying it. You all are setting a great example for workmanship standards, and we all
know that cleaniness is a must when engines are introduced to the install stage.

[The Stig]

I did something totally unnecessary; I test fitted the engine in the car knowing it would have to be removed in order to paint the aluminum panels. Call me crazy, or wasteful...but at least I know there are no issues dropping it in! :P

You know what really sucks though? I'm actually self conscious about my car, and how dirty the wheels, and parts of the cage remain.
I spent days cleaning the garage floor, and cage to prep for this, and it;s still not very clean. Kempo, and Stig you are to blame (mostly)!

Sometimes I wish my car wasn't sitting in a field before buying it. You all are setting a great example for workmanship standards, and we all
know that cleaniness is a must when engines are introduced to the install stage.

Hi Tino,

I don't know what you mean... Your build looks great. The thing about pictures is that they hide quite a lot of what's really there. My car and garage are not as pristine as the pictures seem to appear. I do my best to keep things clean and sorted out; but it doesn't always work out that way... Especially when your work space in one space in an oversized two car garage.

Take care Buddy.

[Edgeman]

My first attempt at the passenger side window has been very challenging. As I keep adjusting the tracks and position of the window it just keeps getting smoother and smoother.
That old saying one step forward with sometimes two steps backwards.

1181911820

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Mike, that's a nice compliment; I just wish I saw the same on this end. :p

SK7500: Your dash panel looks incredible. I might have to hire you to rebuild my gauge cluster.

Today I painted the engine bay panels, and dropped the motor onto the mounts. The transaxle install is next. Pics coming soon in the build thread.

[sk7500]

Thanks for the compliment but for the BEST gauge cluster you should start at the top and that would have to be what Vidal did. If I didn't have 10000 hours into the third attempt at doing our dash, I would do what he did. The cut down cluster fits the proportions of the GTM cockpit better in my opinion.

And don't worry about doing something two or three times unless you are in a race to be done. I'm not even sure "done" is possible. There is always something else to do. Enjoy the journey. Having piece of mind that something will fit later is never a waste of time. It's just one more of those moments that you look at it and say "That just makes me feel good". :) And Dirt, well when you live in a city that's claim to fame is "Worst Air Quality" like we do, dirt and dust is just a fact of life. Keep up the great work.


Thanks Mike, that's a nice compliment; I just wish I saw the same on this end. :p

SK7500: Your dash panel looks incredible. I might have to hire you to rebuild my gauge cluster.

Today I painted the engine bay panels, and dropped the motor onto the mounts. The transaxle install is next. Pics coming soon in the build thread.

[LCD Gauges]

Yes, I saw Vidal's setup; he has the whole system working including HUD. You guys all make me jealous! If I was to build a super-team of FFR members to assemble another GTM, you and Vidal would definitely be part of it.

[joe0121]

You're correct.

The EBTCM controls the a magnetic actuator that varies the steering effort, but the rack requires the entire traction control system to function fully.
Interesting. When I do my GTM I would actually want to keep all the electronic nanies. Not so much for me, but so my wife will be willing to get in the thing with me. Also I would want to have the HUD and at a minimum ABS.

[LCD Gauges]

Started to layout the fuel tank/fuel line routing, and modify the tanks for the cross-over. Just a few more days until all the AN fittings, and components arrive!

We're on track for mid-October karting!

[docglock]

The aluminum tanks from Quick Racing Products arrived this week. I got them installed this morning. These are really nice tanks!

http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/2012/10/aluminum-tanks.html

[VD2021]

More body work.......

[Fraser D]

During lunch today had to drive back to my hotel as there is no food in the CBD on Sundays. Even though my Sunday lunch break is the only time that I get to see the beach during the day I spent my lunch break rehashing my GTM to-do list for when I am home this coming weekend. My co-workers think that there is something wrong with me……. But they have never seen a GTM now have they ;-)

[VD2021]

Hood now ready for Poly Primer.

[sk7500]

The body work is easier and more rewarding after the primer is on. No less messy though :(

[Kalstar]

Got some paint sprayed today, hatch, clam, and jams are painted. Pics will be posted later today. Car will be in full paint in very short order.

[VD2021]

The body work is easier and more rewarding after the primer is on. No less messy though :(

Steve,
Thanks. That hood was a lot more work than I anticipated going in. All of the convex, concave and lines required a lot of time (For an amateur like me).

[VD2021]

Got some paint sprayed today, hatch, clam, and jams are painted. Pics will be posted later today. Car will be in full paint in very short order.

J,
Cool:cool:. Ready for the pics.

[Kalstar]

J,
Cool:cool:. Ready for the pics.

Not the best pics but the color is can finally be seen. Better pic tomorrow.

PS. The rough stuff will be painted black with a texture paint similar to truck bed linner. Same as how Joe's was done.

[kabacj]

Not the best pics but the color is can finally be seen. Better pic tomorrow.

PS. The rough stuff will be painted black with a texture paint similar to truck bed linner. Same as how Joe's was done.


Awesome Jim. Can't wait to see it in person.

John

[Kalstar]

Couple better pics.Very excited!

Thx V and K.

[VD2021]

Couple better pics.Very excited!

Thx V and K.

J,
Very nice. I had thoughts of going the body color on that support. It looks good. What are your plans for protection of the paint in the areas that are exposed to tire debris in the wheel well?

[VD2021]

More bodywork.........................................

[Kalstar]

J,
Very nice. I had thoughts of going the body color on that support. It looks good. What are your plans for protection of the paint in the areas that are exposed to tire debris in the wheel well?

The panels will be covered with eDead, any painted parts will be 3m clear bra material. The black is Bedliner so that will be untouched.

[docglock]

The big thing this past week are the fender louvers. After much measurement, cutting, sanding and bonding, I am now at th epoint where I am feathering in the fiber glass to eliminate the lip and have them blend into the hood.

http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/2012/10/fender-louvers.html

[Kalstar]

Look what I got in the mail today. Traded my Gen 1 gauges for the Gen2 with a fellow member over at the other site. I much prefer the black face.

[Kempo]

Jim, that was a great trade. Not only do they look better in black but they come with their own power and sensor harnesses.

[LCD Gauges]

S.F.A.! We all know what that means. The last two weeks have been uneventful
as I await cooling system parts. My suppliers are giving me the run-around with delivery dates.
That means the engine wont start this week.

Hope to have more progress pics of the PCM communication, and ignition eiring soon.

Here's to your build going smooth! :)

[docglock]

I have been concentrating on the front end this month. Last night I did most of the work on my DRLs. I plan to bond the brackets using 3M's 8115 adhesive. I am going to be using ISIS, so I labeling the leads and making sure they are out of the way for now.

http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/2012/10/drl-mounting.html

[VD2021]

S.F.A.! We all know what that means.

Um... Snack Food Association?:)

[VD2021]

~Five hours of bodywork:(..., but it's progress:)

[fact5racer]

I put mine in gear and went for a drive for breakfast, then instead of heading straight home, went east to the coastline. Mid 60's, perfect temp, very little traffic along the ocean. Such a fun car to drive!

[VD2021]

I put mine in gear and went for a drive for breakfast, then instead of heading straight home, went east to the coastline. Mid 60's, perfect temp, very little traffic along the ocean. Such a fun car to drive!

I am so looking forward to when I can mimic this.

[LCD Gauges]

What is your plan for the rear glass?

12490

[VD2021]

What is your plan for the rear glass?

12490

Tino,
I apologize as I am just seeing this today.

Hard to see anything here outside of the the "818 SEMA Update WITH PICS!" thread. FFR's soon to be latest kit, has the potential to become their fasted moving (sales per time block) kit. Never have I seen a forum thread with almost 1200 replies and an approach on 90,000 views (and most of the action has been over the past ~2 weeks).

I am still in the air with the convex sides of the hatch glass. I worked/adjusted it until I acheived, what IMO what is, and outstanding overall fit. I used that picture angle to show what I could not adjust out because of the differences in the glass and the surrounding hatch area. You would have to be sitting down in order to see it at that angle and Its nearly perfect everywhere except for the convex portion of the glass on both sides.

I haven't decided yet if I will build it up to match the glass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ah8vcOzw4Sc&feature=share&list=UU5olcixvdYSITHM1BcrjNqw

[RumRunner]

Moved the GTM out of it's old garage and into its new home. Only moved it about 50 feet but much more space to work with now. Started the new garage in July, and finished the floor coating about a week ago. Lift was installed last week. Already had a friend over for a front end repair and a tire rotation. I'm hoping this will mark a new resurgence in my time to work on the car. I need to catch up to Hugo!

-Michael

12573125741257512576

[VD2021]

Moved the GTM out of it's old garage and into its new home. Only moved it about 50 feet but much more space to work with now. Started the new garage in July, and finished the floor coating about a week ago. Lift was installed last week. Already had a friend over for a front end repair and a tire rotation. I'm hoping this will mark a new resurgence in my time to work on the car. I need to catch up to Hugo!

-Michael

12573125741257512576

Very Very Cool...... Congratulations..........I wouldn't want to get dust on the floor..........

[mikespms]

Very nice I wish I could do that at my house. Just in time for the big storm.

[Kempo]

Very nice additon to the house Michael. Looks awesome. I especially like the amount of lights you installed and the electrical cords on the roof. Very nice looking floor as well. Congrats!!!!!!!

[LCD Gauges]

Tino,
I apologize as I am just seeing this today.

So long as you weren't avoiding me because you hate Canadians, then it's all good!

I'm still debating whether to build up the body, or switch to a poly window. We'll see how bad it gets when the time comes.

[flotowngtm]

Michael,
How did you even get that lift installed in there? It looks like the lift is right up against the ceiling. How did you get it to stand up? Looks great!

[Edgeman]

WOW! I like the new man cave. I think if I had that garage my Wife would even come out and visit me.

[RumRunner]

Michael,
How did you even get that lift installed in there? It looks like the lift is right up against the ceiling. How did you get it to stand up? Looks great!

It was tight! I had to cut into the ceiling drywall to stand up the columns. One more inch would have made a huge difference! It is literally right up against the ceiling.

So much for planning ....

-Michael

[RumRunner]

WOW! I like the new man cave. I think if I had that garage my Wife would even come out and visit me.

Doug,

Thanks. I think my wife is just happy to regain a garage she can park in and move the dust and smell of epoxy out of the house!

-Michael

[Aman]

Now that's a nice garage! Strong work man, looks beautiful!

[The Stig]

Moved the GTM out of it's old garage and into its new home. Only moved it about 50 feet but much more space to work with now. Started the new garage in July, and finished the floor coating about a week ago. Lift was installed last week. Already had a friend over for a front end repair and a tire rotation. I'm hoping this will mark a new resurgence in my time to work on the car. I need to catch up to Hugo!

-Michael

12573125741257512576

Very nice Michael! I'm envious of the new work-space. It makes it much more enjoyable when you're not tripping over everything in your garage in order to work on your car. Congrats! Looks like a great addition.

Mike

[VD2021]

Does anyone have any GTM news/data/info they would like to pass? We need something to break through the 818 traffic.............

[LCD Gauges]

The GTM has four wheels. My cooling system parts are still not here. Tonight I'll upload some photos of exhaust, and a MAF sesnor.

Does this help?

[LCD Gauges]

Picked up my cooling system parts! I repeat: my cooling system parts have arrived! This is breaking news! Stop looking in the 818 section already!

[Kalstar]

Does anyone have any GTM news/data/info they would like to pass? We need something to break through the 818 traffic.............

How about some Teaser paint pics.

Yes that is me in the reflection.

I love the color!

[sk7500]

It's so much more fun looking at yourself in color than in primer. Congrats.

[VD2021]

OHHH... Shiny........

[Edgeman]

Nice color!!!!!!
I have asked Hugo if i could copy his bezel that he put around the ISIS. He was nice enough to say yes so this is what I have done. I will fiber glass it at some time.

13148

[LCD Gauges]

How about some Teaser paint pics.

That is one hell of a colour, and nice job. Too bad someone had to ruin it with their reflection. ;)

[Kalstar]

It can be said..... that it's not really a refraction of my image as much as a reflection of how much this car has captued my sole. Cheesy but that is the first thing I thought of when I looked at the pic on my phone.

[carbon fiber]

lookin' good! i like the color also. won't be long now, congrats!

[Jayman174]

Finished up drilling the passenger foot box sheet metal and worked on the AC unit last night. Had to do some trimming on a couple panels and modify the AC mount a little bit to get it to fit well. Stayed up too late.... little tired this am. :-)

Paint looks pretty snazzy Fuzzy!!


Jayman

[VD2021]

Finished up drilling the passenger foot box sheet metal and worked on the AC unit last night. Had to do some trimming on a couple panels and modify the AC mount a little bit to get it to fit well. Stayed up too late.... little tired this am. :-)

Paint looks pretty snazzy Fuzzy!!


Jayman

J,
Congrats on the delivery and official start of your GTM build. Sounds like you're in the groove. Will we be seeing any pictures?

[Edgeman]

Nice color!!!!!!
I have asked Hugo if i could copy his bezel that he put around the ISIS. He was nice enough to say yes so this is what I have done. I will fiber glass it at some time.

13148

I did not like my first attempt so I made another one. Also went to the upholster to ask a few more questions and looks like I will not be fiber glassing the main body.
13372 13373

[VD2021]

Finalizing the driver's door to ensure I can take it apart and put it back together without issue. After talking to Mike (MikesPMS) on modding the doors to get the window glass to go down as far as possible, I fabbed this simple bracket.

The window now goes down as far as physically possible (which is about 5/8" from the top of window opening.) But the wiper conceals most of it.

The bracket tucks the top of the motor under the lower door frame bar. Haven't decided if I will rivet or weld it on yet.....

Thanks Mike.

[LCD Gauges]

Today I witnessed a miracle! My car secretly installed one spark plug from the pack of four, and fired up!

All of this without battery power, oil, or coolant! Not only are GTM's good looking, they are freaking smart too!

13389

:mad:

[LCD Gauges]

Plumbed the left side tank, and started the ignition wiring. Even took some time to re-string the tunnel area, and bundle up some wires.

Two days until the engine start test! I can almost hear that open exhaust idling ...:cool:

[Fraser D]

Trying to get all the fiber glassing completed before the real mess making starts.
I made a mold to cast a weather lip on the forward edge of my modified two part Gen 1 hatch.
It still needs to be cleaned up and fitted correctly but it is all starting to come together.
In addition to the rear hatch I grafted in a set of Shane’s rear vents.

[crash]

Guess what I did?

Yep, I cut the nose that was already in 4 pieces into 6 pieces!

[Kalstar]

Dustly from sitting for a week....not cut and buffed yet, but getting closer....BTW love what you did to the back of yours Fraser.

[Taz Rules]

I dreamed about it. sigh.......

[LCD Gauges]

Almost threw it to the curb...almost.

(^Yes, this is an attention post)

[Kalstar]

Came out of paint again yesterday. I did not like the way the painter broke the line between the two colors, so the whole car had to be scuffed up and resprayed. I am a happy camper now! Just need to put the pretty pieces back together. I know I'm holding out on the big pics, but I want those to be professionally taken when it is done and out in the sun light. As it is, it glows under just the shop lights.

[LCD Gauges]

U sick SOB! Looking mighty fine under the lights.

What is the secret to getting a good edge between colors?

[flotowngtm]

Nice paint job Kalstar. When you see another one almost like it in a few months, just know its been in the works for a long time. You have nice taste my man. Where did you find that color?

[Kalstar]

Nice paint job Kalstar. When you see another one almost like it in a few months, just know its been in the works for a long time. You have nice taste my man. Where did you find that color?

00SS.... They had turned the line straight across after the 3/4 sccops and it looked funny. I wanted it to follow the body line. As for getting it right (to my taste), the roof color needs to 1). Follow the body from under the 3/4 scoop to the lower edge of the hatch glass and 2). Has to be under the clear coat so there is no raised lip where the colors mate.

Flowto.... You too sir, have nice taste. Originally the car was going to be white, then orange caught my eye. The initial paint I wanted was beryllium off the Saleen S7, no go there as the paint code was/is top secret. Then I went to the Mclaren Volcano red, once again nearly impossible to get the exact color. Finally I went with Dodge Copperhead off the Viper with a custom mix pearl coat. The light variance is huge, in the shadows it looks 3 shades darker than it actually is and on the raised corners it looks almost like dark gold. The color really shows the lines of the car beautifully.

Now just have to figure out if I paint the wheels to match the gloss roof or leave them satin black. Thoughts??

[flotowngtm]

WOW we really were thinking alike on the paint! White was my first choice after seeing the Authotenica GTM with the LED tail lights. I love that Orange GTM thats in the classifieds. And when the new Mclaren P1 came out I saved every picture from every angle I could find online. I still have not settled. But next month I will be on vacation and will be taking a trip to a shop that may be painting the car. It will be somewhere between your color and that Mclaren.
I would go with rims that match the roof. With the gloss thats showing on that car I dont think that flat black wheels would look as nice. My rims are solid gloss black the pic was just an experiment.
Cant wait to see this thing together! You just made the top of my favorite list:D

[Taz Rules]

Now just have to figure out if I paint the wheels to match the gloss roof or leave them satin black. Thoughts??
DAMN YOU GUYS!

Kalstar, you and flotown are doing almost the exact same colour I dreamed of...except mine had a metallic charcoal grey roof. :mad: Now I'm going to have to come up with a new colour scheme....
How about this one???
14055

:cool:

Anyways, Kalsar, you were debating shiny or matte rims....maybe these will help you decide?

14056
14057
14058

I didn't know if you had continued the black down your hood or not...so I did it in one of the shots.
Colour match isn't perfect, but it might give you an idea.

[Kalstar]

Flo... We're brothers from different mothers. Thanx for the compliment, it means a lot. Wait until you see it done. Lots of minor and major changes and one of a kind additions. When both are done we should find a way to get pics together, where do you live?

Taz...again your the man. PM sent.

[flotowngtm]

Its easy to hook up with me, I have a place in South Carolina and in Texas. And a big trailer to take it everywhere in between. Confuses me a little on where I want to title it.