"Stuff" that you might need to build a GTM....I probably have it.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I guess the theme of this post is.....if you're working on your GTM and run across a problem, I probably have a solution already designed. I have a ton of stuff already drawn up in CAD to "fix" things that I don't have listed on my website. Some examples:

On the Gen I cars, we never use the FFR-provided hatch latch....because it's almost impossible to make it work. I have a mounting plate designed to accept the donor vette hatch latch along with the striker plate (adjustable) that mounts to the hatch. Yes, the striker itself you would have to fabricate yourself from 1/4" round stock, but at least most of the work is already done for you.

Does your B-pillar on your door stick way out past the body? Yeah, we run into that all the time. We end up making a small pie cut at the base of the B-pillar (we don't cut the B-pillar completely off!) so that the B-pillar can be "bent" in toward the body where it's supposed to be, and then we cut a couple aluminum reinforcement plates that we bond to the door to span the pie cut to hold the B-pillar at the angle we want and put the strength back into the pillar.

Are you missing one of the FFR aluminum close out panels or belly pans and can't reach FFR? Yeah, we've done that too....so I have a bunch of those panels already drawn up in CAD so we can cut them right here instead of waiting for FFR to ship us one.

Door strikers. We never use the FFR provided parts because they just don't work out most of the time. They're too short to reach the latch or the threads aren't long enough to reach thru the body and striker plate or they just look bad. We make our own from scratch with a nice aluminum mounting plate made to custom needed length to reach the latch

Brackets to secure the ends of the dash pods to the chassis so they aren't flopping around.

Alum panel to span between the waterfall and dash (needs covered with suede/upholstery)

Door popper solenoid mounting brackets

Reinforcement plates to reinforce the front hatch opening corners (so the main body does not crack from the hatch corners over to the quarter-window openings)

Hatch cable release bracket for Gen II GTM with Kooks exhaust to route the cable down between the mufflers instead of over the top of the muffler.

About a dozen different versions of ISIS (sorry, Infinitybox) Powercell and Mastercell mounting brackets with additional room on them to mount relays, other control boxes, etc.

Tillett seat mounting brackets (all set up for adjustable seat tracks/sliders)

GMPP LS3 engine harness fuse box mounting bracket

Aluminum overhead console (additional room for switches, traction control, radar detector stuff, dome lights)

Ram-lift Pro pump mounting bracket

Throttle pedal "adapter" for cable operated throttle body (made for car with FiTech intake/ECU/harness installed)

etc, etc, etc.

If you're building your GTM and run across something that seems like there should be a better solution, or something you've seen that we made for one of the cars we built here, but don't see is on the website and are interested to see if it's available....shoot me an email. Either I'll have something available that might help....or not...but doesn't hurt to check to see if maybe I can save you some time and prevent you from having to "reinvent the wheel"....

[Erik W. Treves]

you have a picture of this and cost?

"Aluminum overhead console (additional room for switches, traction control, radar detector stuff, dome lights)"

[Shoeless]

There is definitely some stuff on this list I will need to pick up. Thanks for posting this up Shane.

I'd be interested in seeing the Aluminum Overhead Console as well.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

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Not super-fancy, but it does give you some extra room to mount switches and things. On the one in the photo, he has his RaceLogic traction control, radar detector control, I think the 2 momentary push buttons between the dome lights are suspension lift up and down and the rocker switch on the side turns the dome lights on (and the dome lights were also wired up to an ISIS output that automatically turned the dome lights on when you activated the door popper and kept them on for 30 seconds or until the ignition was turned on.

I also set some of these up with the AC controls where the traction control is mounted, and push button switches for the fog/hazard and other stuff where the radar stuff is mounted. It does require that you bond a mounting plate to the roof above the dome light area. The front of the console has an L bracket that sits on top of the halo bar to hold the front of the console up and then the roof plate has a threaded stud sticking down to hold the rear of the console. The studs are above the dome lights....so you secure the console to the roof with the dome lights out, then snap the dome lights in last.

Not sure I have any other photos of this installed in other cars or not?

Cost would depend on what you want installed in there (how much time I'd have to spend changing the drawing to fit what you want in there). If you wanted the AC/4 push button switch/dome light version, I'd say $129 for all of the flat parts and you would have to make all of the bends yourself and then bond all of the parts together. Once the main center part is bent so that it perfectly fits the sides, we just tape the whole thing together with masking tape and bond the seams together from the inside with 8115. Once the epoxy cures on the inside, we remove the tape from the outside and fill the seams with 8115 and when that's cured, we just sand the excess epoxy off the outside so once it's painted, it all looks like one piece. The one in the photo we sent out to my upholstery guy to have covered.

If you want me to pre-bend all of the parts to fit, I'd say that would be $169 and you would have to bond the parts together. I'm not really interested in doing all of the bonding and sanding as I have too many other irons in the fire right now and that is the time consuming part. Easy and straight-forward, but time consuming.

I also have an overhead console for 3 gauges....not sure if I ever posted that before?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

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