Front UCA alignment?

[richtersand]

Hi all, I have a question for you about the front alignment and the upper control arm. The manual recommends to size the shorter link to 7.375”. As you can see in the picture (bottom link), I have that side bottomed out and it’s still measuring slightly too long. Last time something like this happened I had made a mistake so I thought I would check in here. Thanks I’m advance for any guidance!

Cheers,
Matt

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150973&d=1626582497

[richtersand]

A couple more angles:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150974&d=1626583088

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150975&d=1626583088

[JohnK]

Not an uncommon problem for those installing power steering (alignment specs are different for manual vs power steering, so it's not really an issue for folks with manual racks). Many folks (myself included) have run into the same challenge getting the shorter link short enough, and have trimmed the link. Here's (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(wiper-motor-and-more-heat-insulation)&p=360743&viewfull=1#post360743) the link in my build thread where I show what I did. A quick search of the forum will show that others have done the same mod.

[boat737]

Yup, I cut roughly 1/4 inch (1/8 inch on each end) off the "coupling nut", and about the same off the studs (cause they will bottom out in the coupling nut).

I did most on the band saw, but the stud that is welded to the joint, I used a saw's-all while it was on the car. A little messy and cumbersome, but go slow and easy and it's very doable.

One other thing. On mine, it was the rear link that needed to be shortened. It looks like your pictures show the forward link.

[richtersand]

Thanks guys. Boat, interesting you point that out. I looked closely at the other posts on this and you're right--it looks like most are modifying the rear or clevis (not solid) side of the UCA. The one initially pictured (DS) is actually super close to 7-3/8". It's the other side that I'm having trouble with. It's about 7-1/2" (pic below). I didn't have any trouble with getting very close to the other measurements.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150980&d=1626589036

[JohnK]

There's no left and right UCA - they're the same P/N on both sides, so on one side the non-clevis arm will be the front one and on the other side it will be the rear. Make sure to trim the rear arm on both UCA's.

[rich grsc]

It's the rear adjuster that is shortest, not the front. John is correct, one side has the welded stud to the front, (driver side), it'll be to the rear on the other side(passenger)

[Jeff Kleiner]

As has been pointed out it is the rear link that measures shorter. The manual is incorrect (they mirror imaged the drawing but didn't correct for left/right). Also has been pointed out the rear adjuster sleeve usually needs to be shortened to achieve more than about 6 degrees positive caster. Don't fail to also shorten the inner male threaded stubs as well or they'll bottom out internally.

Jeff

[nucjd19]

Not to hijack the thread but I have question about this. I emailed Dan at FFR about this and he was adamant that no modification is to be done and everything will go into spec but obviously folks are having a problem with the caster and power steering. if you do not cut down the rear sleeves is the caster change very noticeable when driving ? Thanks.

[edwardb]

Not to hijack the thread but I have question about this. I emailed Dan at FFR about this and he was adamant that no modification is to be done and everything will go into spec but obviously folks are having a problem with the caster and power steering. if you do not cut down the rear sleeves is the caster change very noticeable when driving ? Thanks.

This has been going on for a long time. The current generation of UCA's may require the rear adjusters to be shortened. A previous vendor FF used required the front ones to be longer. I've experienced both. And so have many others. Not sure why Dan wouldn't acknowledge. Maybe just nervous about saying it's OK to modify the parts. But you can proceed with confidence to do what's necessary. Yes, getting the desired caster for power steering is noticeable and highly desirable. Go for it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Not to hijack the thread but I have question about this. I emailed Dan at FFR about this and he was adamant that no modification is to be done and everything will go into spec...

Which spec? The 3 degree spec for manual steering? Yes, no problem. But if you want more than about 6 degrees positive caster along with .5 or more negative camber you’re probably going to bottom out the adjuster before you get there.

Jeff

[nucjd19]

Which spec? The 3 degree spec for manual steering? Yes, no problem. But if you want more than about 6 degrees positive caster along with .5 or more negative camber you’re probably going to bottom out the adjuster before you get there.

Jeff

Regarding the Caster for power steering. I thought it was odd from Dan since everyone seems to do it. I am able to bottom it out and just barely get it. Thanks Jeff and edwardb for your inputs. Much appreciated. Sorry for thread hijack :)

[CraigS]

For any others reading this, I can cut your rear sleeves in my lathe so you end up w/ a real nice clean 90degree cut. I take off the round 1/4 inch or so at both ends of the sleeve. Email craigstuard at comcast dot net and put FFR as the subject so I don't delete an email from an unfamiliar name. There is no charge other than I ask you to slip a $10 bill into the package to cover return mail.

[Jaguar Engineer]

Not to hijack the thread but I have question about this. I emailed Dan at FFR about this and he was adamant that no modification is to be done and everything will go into spec but obviously folks are having a problem with the caster and power steering. if you do not cut down the rear sleeves is the caster change very noticeable when driving ? Thanks.

Same here. Dan was adamant that I should wait until getting it aligned before making any judgments. I wasn’t happy with the response, but glad to see this is a known issue. May have to go ahead and trim while I still have easy access to everything.

[AC Bill]

I wonder why FFR just wouldn't supply the correct length as required, in the first place? Seems odd that a crucial component would need to be modified, by the builder.
They would know from your order, (complete kit), if you were going with power steering, or not, or, they could ask you at the time of the (basic kit) order, and include the correct ones needed.

[JohnK]

I wonder why FFR just wouldn't supply the correct length as required, in the first place? Seems odd that a crucial component would need to be modified, by the builder.
They would know from your order, (complete kit), if you were going with power steering, or not, or, they could ask you at the time of the (basic kit) order, and include the correct ones needed.

My guess is because FFR sources these from an outside vendor, (https://www.spcalignment.com/race) and they have limited lengths available for the sleeves. FFR probably thought that this one length was "close enough" for both manual and PS racks and the other available lengths are too far off to be suitable.

[460.465USMC]

For any others reading this, I can cut your rear sleeves in my lathe so you end up w/ a real nice clean 90degree cut. I take off the round 1/4 inch or so at both ends of the sleeve. Email craigstuard at comcast dot net and put FFR as the subject so I don't delete an email from an unfamiliar name. There is no charge other than I ask you to slip a $10 bill into the package to cover return mail.

That's a very generous offer, Craig. I may take you up on it if my build requires it. I'm going to hold off until I know for sure, but will make a note of this for future reference. Thank you!