Bodywork, filler on parting lines

[Otee453]

Doing the body filler , smoothing the parting lines….
I realize these bodies aren't perfect nor are they symmetrical, but I can feel an ever so slight hump on the top of the right fender. Best I can describe it is that the top of the round finder has a small ridge so the fender is not a perfect curve across the top. This anomaly is not present on the left fender. I’m nearly certain this slight hump is in the body and not my filler as the hump is clearly where the red gel coat is just starting to peak through the body filler. This very slight hump cannot be felt in the curve front to back on the fender, but side to side over the hump. (hope that makes sense.

I have blocked it out and guide coated it where no low spots exist. In the pictures, the small hump runs just between the two purple sticky notes. When using w&g remover to add a temporary shine and shining a light across the fender, I can’t see any abnormality. I've looked at it from numerous angles and it looks good.

Is this an anomaly in the body? I’m reluctant to build up the filler in that 12” spot as it seems it would create an obvious hump.

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[Presto51]

I will assume that your hand is flat when feeling, not your fingers tips.

By your description I would say don't worry about it, and keep moving on with your body work. I would bet by the time you have it all primed and final sanding done, you won't know it's there.

Ron

[Otee453]

I will assume that your hand is flat when feeling, not your fingers tips.

By your description I would say don't worry about it, and keep moving on with your body work. I would bet by the time you have it all primed and final sanding done, you won't know it's there.

Ron

Thanks for the input. That’s exactly where I’m at in my thinking. Explaining it like a hump or ridge makes it sound worse than it is but I know of no other way to describe the feel in words. It’s essentially just not an absolutely perfect roundness and very subtle.

[rich grsc]

That 'flat' spot is common. You can't see, but close your eyes and you can certainly feel it. If you can't see then maybe just move on.

[Otee453]

That 'flat' spot is common. You can't see, but close your eyes and you can certainly feel it. If you can't see then maybe just move on.

Thank you. I was hoping someone would confirm it was a common anomaly.

[GoDadGo]

We dealt with the same issue and avoided a lot of the common problems by doing a ton of blocking, specifically around the parting lines, prior to applying any filler.
I learned that using the Tubular and Taco-Shaped blocks worked best on the inside radius areas.
Since the car is nothing but curves Sam said it was like working an old VW Beatle.

Sanding Blocks Used:
https://www.dura-block.com/8-pc-Dura-Block-Kit-Special-Use-Version-_p_116.html

Redbone Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8m-MdRZvaH45Y6h4orIm7w/videos

Also, during the bodywork process my pal Sammy, who is a professional bodywork guy, taught me a lot about seeing with my fingertips and not with my eyes.
It made all the difference after the car was primed, trace coated, and re-blocked for a final time.
The work lessons The Sam Man taught me during the bodywork phase still amaze me.

Good Luck & Happy Sanding!

NOTE:..Just understand that the slicing & re-glassing of the driver's door was my idea and NOT a common practice, but it worked well.

[Otee453]

We dealt with the same issue and avoided a lot of the common problems by doing a ton of blocking, specifically around the parting lines, prior to applying any filler.
I learned that using the Tubular and Taco-Shaped blocks worked best on the inside radius areas.
Since the car is nothing but curves Sam said it was like working an old VW Beatle.

Sanding Blocks Used:
https://www.dura-block.com/8-pc-Dura-Block-Kit-Special-Use-Version-_p_116.html

Redbone Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8m-MdRZvaH45Y6h4orIm7w/videos

Also, during the bodywork process my pal Sammy, who is a professional bodywork guy, taught me a lot about seeing with my fingertips and not with my eyes.
It made all the difference after the car was primed, trace coated, and re-blocked for a final time.
The work lessons The Sam Man taught me during the bodywork phase still amaze me.

Good Luck & Happy Sanding!

NOTE:..Just understand that the slicing & re-glassing of the driver's door was my idea and NOT a common practice, but it worked well.


Thank you.
I have spent at least ten, 8-10 hour days just adding body filler, blocking most of it off & guide coating (rinse & repeat). I have saved an encyclopedia of information from the forums on bodywork/paint, so I am following all the advice I've found online. I have been using my bare hands and the method of a paper towel between my hand and the surface, with my eyes closed checking for irregularities and you're right... your hand "sees" things your eyes definitely do not.

I keep wondering how much the slick-sand will cover and/or correct, but as soon as that thought enters my head I correct myself and proceed as though the slick-sand will not correct anything and the body filler needs to be PERFECT, prior to proceeding.

Funny... I thought I was mentally prepared for the sanding and dust. NOPE. If you've never done it, I don't think you can actually fully grasp how much work it REALLY is. And Im just in the first phase!

[GoDadGo]

When we started the bodywork on my car I had a ton of information given to me by Jeff Kleiner...(aka: Sir Jeffski)
What I didn't understand was how much material needed to be put on the body only to be sanded off.
We used about 7/8 of a gallon of Rage Gold and about 20 ounces of Fibertech.
You can see in my final bodywork video that 90% of what we put on the car was eventually sanded off.

Final Body Work Video:
https://youtu.be/po1Bb2_XDDk