MK IV E BRAKE, what a pain, need some advice

[ggunter]

I know it's been asked here before but has anyone come up with a redesign on the e brake on a MK IV. The original cables would hang up and drag and I changed to Wilwood brakes and added extra springs to the cables but still have dragging cables. Does the Wilwood electric e brake work well? And how much is it? Or has anyone come up with a design that works well using the cables? There is another cable mount on the frame that is higher mounted and would not have the cables running under the cross tube but I assume that would be for an IRS rear. Any thoughts? I know someone has made this thing work.

[egchewy79]

check out the pulley modification popularized by edwardb in his anniversary MK4 build thread. it puts the cable above the 4" tube, but might be a pain in a completed car unless you can remove the transmission tunnel cover.

[Fman]

I will be doing this retro for a winter project, I am not happy with the FFR brake and I did do the pulley modification.

https://520speedworks.com/shop/ols/products/e-stopp-electric-emergency-brake


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zulwRWvZSd8

[kgkeys]

I'm actually pretty proud of mine and I've posted it a couple of times, but no one's really shown any interest. My car IS IRS, but I don't see why this couldn't work on a solid axle as well. I used a Fiero brake handle mounted to the left of the driver's seat and ran the main cable out the back wall of the cockpit, inside of the tire and up along the frame, to the rear of the axle. From there, I set it up like a late model sedan using transverse cables that pull against each other (Basically, how the stock Lincoln mkVIII was setup). I built a simple steel subframe, used a stamped steel "equalizer" from a Buick, and built a custom tensioner using a threaded cable end, a threaded coupler, and a slotted bolt. I used stock mkVIII cables from the subframe to the calipers. It all works great and though it was a bit more expensive than some options, I couldn't be happier with it.

-Kyle

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[Al_C]

I have the pulley installed on the frame and the cables still got hung up on the bottom. My less-than-elegant solution was to make an extension to the ebrake handle. I used two small pieces of angle iron to extend the mounting area. I also used the Lokar clevis. It's not perfect, but it changed the angle of the cable enough that it no longer gets hung up. The only downside is that it makes the effort to engage the brake greater. Here's a photo:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118206&d=1575059158

[CDXXVII]

I am not a big fan of the FFR E-Brake handle. Looks great but!!! I ended up going with a Mustang handle and modified the cable routing. 10,000 miles and works great.

My rear brakes are 2004 Mustang Cobra Brake Calipers. Nothing special. The cable adapter I made and the cable ends were swagged at a local boat rigging shop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150754&d=1626104450

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150755&d=1626104467

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150756&d=1626104480

[RBachman]

Mine has the E-Stopp and I like it. 'Not a fan of the original setup on the PB.

[silver_pilate]

I also found FFR's design to not work well without significant changes. I ended up ordering a donor handle from a Mustang and using the routing for it. Works great.

[egchewy79]

I'm actually pretty proud of mine and I've posted it a couple of times, but no one's really shown any interest. My car IS IRS, but I don't see why this couldn't work on a solid axle as well. I used a Fiero brake handle mounted to the left of the driver's seat and ran the main cable out the back wall of the cockpit, inside of the tire and up along the frame, to the rear of the axle. From there, I set it up like a late model sedan using transverse cables that pull against each other (Basically, how the stock Lincoln mkVIII was setup). I built a simple steel subframe, used a stamped steel "equalizer" from a Buick, and built a custom tensioner using a threaded cable end, a threaded coupler, and a slotted bolt. I used stock mkVIII cables from the subframe to the calipers. It all works great and though it was a bit more expensive than some options, I couldn't be happier with it.

-Kyle

150745150746150747150748150749150750150751150752

I did look into the Fiero mod when I was building out my ebrake, but also read that with the scarcity Fiero parts these days, you might be out of luck if one of the teeth on the handle mechanism breaks. I do like the fact that you can lower the handle with the ebrake engaged though.

[kgkeys]

I did look into the Fiero mod when I was building out my ebrake, but also read that with the scarcity Fiero parts these days, you might be out of luck if one of the teeth on the handle mechanism breaks. I do like the fact that you can lower the handle with the ebrake engaged though.

True the Fiero handles are getting scarce. I know I've seen at least one other handle that operates like a Fiero handle (down when engaged), but I can't remember what it was. In any case, you could still use a Mustang handle or something universal like the Lokar handle in the center console, and still use the transverse cable pull.

-Kyle

[Hacksaw84]

I think the above mentioned one from edwardb's build is the most common mod to make this work with the items in the kit.

I however moved my ebrake to the top of the trans tunnel and used a Lokar kit. It worked well and really makes reaching the ebrake while buckled in so much easier.

[nucjd19]

I will be doing this retro for a winter project, I am not happy with the FFR brake and I did do the pulley modification.

https://520speedworks.com/shop/ols/products/e-stopp-electric-emergency-brake


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zulwRWvZSd8

Travis
I was looking into this. Does this decrease the resistance to the e brake spring compared to the original setup and therefore allow the E brake to disengage easier? I will be curious to hear your experience as I might be going down this route.

[Fman]

Travis
I was looking into this. Does this decrease the resistance to the e brake spring compared to the original setup and therefore allow the E brake to disengage easier? I will be curious to hear your experience as I might be going down this route.

Jon I would think it actually would pull even harder compared to the handle putting more pressure on the brake caliper spring. I added those extra springs on the caliper and have had no issues with the e-brake not disengaging.

[michael everson]

Kyle, the C4 corvette operated the same way. Might have even been the same handle.
Mike

[RBachman]

Travis
I was looking into this. Does this decrease the resistance to the e brake spring compared to the original setup and therefore allow the E brake to disengage easier? I will be curious to hear your experience as I might be going down this route.

I have the E-Stopp on mine without adding springs and it works fine (so far.) But I also swapped out the cables to a better set than what came with the kit.

[ggunter]

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to look at it closely this weekend, since this is the last thing to do while my body is off and away at paint. Looking at the the cables they make long sweeping turns so I dont think they are the reason for sticking. I believe going under the cross member is the real friction culpret causing the drag. In any case, while the body is off I will make changes. Are there any low friction cables on the market that would work? I priced the wilwood e brake kit at $1000, a bit steep but not out of the question. I think maybe the pulley system may be my route. Looking at the upper bkt mounts, that I think is for the IRS, how would those cables hook up to the handle or do they supply different cables when you order with an IRS setup?