Question about terminating coyote starter wires

[JohnK]

Hey all,

I'm working on finishing up the power wiring in the engine compartment. I plan to leave the two starter wires long and unterminated until I drop in the engine so I can get their lengths correct. However, I have some concern about having enough room to get a hydraulic crimper in there to terminate the 4 ga. power wire. Question for those of you with coyote engines (gen 2, if it matters). What sort of room is there in that area once the engine and headers are in place? Will I be able to get a hydraulic crimper in there? An option I've considered is using rivnuts and 10-32 screws instead of rivets on the three padded clamps running down the angled brace, so I can free up that bundle and pull it down below the car, but I'm not sure if there's enough room once the engine is in to access screws on those clamps. Another option would be to temporarily remove the starter to get the crimper in there once I determine the correct wire lengths. I don't want to paint myself in a corner where I can't get a tool in there to crimp on those connectors.

Thoughts on the best way to do this?

Thanks,
John

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150637&d=1625933100

[rich grsc]

Pull the wire down on the outside of the frame, crimp the end on it.:rolleyes::confused: You have to leave the wire long enough to service the starter in the future.

[Nigel Allen]

It's a few years since I crimped mine, using a hydraulic crimper. I don't recall any access issue. My layout is the same, including the isolator.

I tapped a thread into the side of the engine mount. A short 8mm bolt provided a termination point for a short earth cable to the engine block.

Cheers, Nigel

[JohnK]

Thank you both. From the photos I've seen, things look pretty tight once the engine and headers are in place. Glad to hear it's that straightforward.

[Al_C]

Thank you both. From the photos I've seen, things look pretty tight once the engine and headers are in place. Glad to hear it's that straightforward.

A little late to the discussion, but I think you'll be fine. The "tightness" is due to the size of the heads. Below them is somewhat normal. The coyote is 90 degree, so the block is a bit wider than a small block, but there is room near the starter. Coming from underneath, you should have room between the block/starter and the footbox.