David's retirement Project! Building a Roadster.

[David_L]

Hi guys! I’m finally building a Roadster! This is something I’ve wanted to do for years. Newly retired and this is my first major project. I’m located in Colleyville Tx and would love to touch base with some builders in the area. Seem I fall in the demographics of a lot of builders with 5 grandchildren and another on the way! My Son will be helping me when an extra set of hands are needed.


I placed the order back in January and got it delivered June 15th.
Progress:
The body is removed and stowed away on the ceiling of my garage, and I’ve labeled and removed all the panels.
Mounted the first 2 panels on the front and installed the lower control arms.

This is where my issues start. There are so many missing parts do to Covid that I need to help on what I can steps I can work on. Or maybe I just wait.. I will post the missing parts later but they seem to be something from every critical group.

Build:
Complete Kit
Powdercoating
Hydraulic Clutch
Body cutouts
Standard Seats (I’m planning on upgrading to high back when I get there)
Power Steering
3-Link Rear
17.9/10.5 Halibrand Wheels (These were my free gift for just asking!)
Wind Wings
Sun Visor
Wiper Kit
Heater/Defroster
Right and Left Rollbars in black (My wife might disown me if I had not gotten them for her)

I am going with the black rollbars and side pipe look. I’ve see where guys had success with painting the side pipes with high temp paint but may do the ceramic coating instead.
At this point I’m planning on doing my own body work and possibly the paint as well, but we will see how that goes! Lol
I loved how Papa, in his build thread, painted the panels black and used the Thermo-Tec so I will be doing the same.



Mike Forte will be supplying my Moser 8.8 with brakes as well as building my Engine and Transmission package.
Boss Small Block 363 expected to get 440-450 HP
Holley Sniper EFI
AC/PS
TKX 2.87 / .68
His Mechanical Throttle Linkage

Mods:
Russ’s Trunk mod. Looks like it would cost as much or more building it myself as getting it from him/
Lots of stuff from Breese Automotive. Battery to front kit, radiator shroud, mounting kit ect.. Didn’t get the seat mount till I decide what seat ect.. May want to do sliding seat mount.

Looking forward to getting input from everyone as my build continues.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153397&d=1631665357

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153399&d=1631665357

[Papa]

Congrats! I know back-ordered parts are not fun to wait for, but if you can't complete a mechanical system, start fitting and drilling all those aluminum panels. There are only about 1,200 holes to drill.

[460.465USMC]

Welcome aboard, David! Congrats on your order. I know you'll get great advice from the seasoned builders, so I'll just offer moral support. Pretty exciting day! You're in for a lot of fun.

I'm also going with dual black roll bars and black exhaust (and black wheels).

[David_L]

Wow! I'm honored that my first reply was from Papa! I loved your build thread! And how are you enjoying your 427? Or should I say your 347 with the mislabel? LOL

So some of the key missing parts:
Front upper control arm, Spindles, Spring, front, rear lower control arm, rod ends, pedal box, outer tie rod ends.

This keeps me from working on the front end and the rear end, but still waiting on the Moser to get shipped back to me.

So what panels can I work on without causing issues with prior steps?

Also how did your black bed paint hold up? I got the Rust-Oleum Professional Grade Undercoating Spray. I'm also guessing if you are putting on Thermo-Tec you don't want to paint that side of the panel?

[Papa]

Wow! I'm honored that my first reply was from Papa! I loved your build thread! And how are you enjoying your 427? Or should I say your 347 with the mislabel? LOL

So some of the key missing parts:
Front upper control arm, Spindles, Spring, front, rear lower control arm, rod ends, pedal box, outer tie rod ends.

This keeps me from working on the front end and the rear end, but still waiting on the Moser to get shipped back to me.

So what panels can I work on without causing issues with prior steps?

Also how did your black bed paint hold up? I got the Rust-Oleum Professional Grade Undercoating Spray. I'm also guessing if you are putting on Thermo-Tec you don't want to paint that side of the panel?

The 347 is a fun engine in one of these. You can fit and drill all the panels, just don't silicone and rivet them on yet. The spray on (rattle can bedliner is okay on the panels that don't get pelted with rocks, but useless everywhere that rocks hit it. I'd definitely not recommend using it the way I did. The Herculiner is perfect for the splash panels and everything exposed to the road. It has held up with no signs of wear.

Dave

[2FAST4U]

Congrats

[Straversi]

Congratulations and welcome. There may be some hiccups with missing parts but know that we are all jealous. We all wish we had another new kit sitting in the garage. Enjoy every rivet and keep us posted.
-Steve

[JB in NOVA]

Welcome aboard! Smart move with the suspended body buck--that is something I wish I had done. Instead, I lost an entire bay of my garage for a year. I look forward to following your build.

[SSNK4US]

Congrats David! Welcome. Sounds like you have close to the same kind of build we’re doing. YES everybody I’m still alive and actually getting somewhere after almost three years lol
LOTS of helpful people out here David. And LOTS of great ideas!!
Keep us all posted!!

[David_L]

Thanks everyone for all the input! For my suspended body buck I used a couple of kayak pully storage systems I got off of Amazon. They both have locks and allows be to lower or raise each end.

Papa, thanks for the drilling rivet holes idea. That will keep me busy while I wait for parts! I also need to order some Herculiner. Also I did find a company near me in Arlington TX that will do the ceramic coating for the pipes!

So I guess I still need 17 more posts to graduate.. lol

[Papa]

Just PM David Hodgkins and ask to be granted full access. You have the kit, so you're obviously committed, or maybe should be like the rest of us. :p

[David_L]

Amazing how many projects come up that keeps me from working on the build! LOL

I'm making a little progress drilling holes in panels per Papa's suggestion. drilled the firewall and some of the passenger foot box. I'm wondering if there's anything keeping me from riveting in the passenger foot box?

I think I should be able to work on fitting the trunk drop when I get to marking and drilling those panels.150909150908

[David_L]

Papa I contacted David and he got me set up! Thanks again! Just watched the video on how to upload and post picture inline. Trying it now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150939&d=1626546402

[Blitzboy54]

Congrats and welcome! Your POL is likely similar to mine. I’ve been moving along pretty good and I’ve never run out of things to do. Came close once but that only counts in horse shoes and had grenades. If you get stuck reach out there will be plenty of directions we can help push you in

[David_L]

Congrats and welcome! Your POL is likely similar to mine. I’ve been moving along pretty good and I’ve never run out of things to do. Came close once but that only counts in horse shoes and had grenades. If you get stuck reach out there will be plenty of directions we can help push you in

Thanks Blitzboy54! I'm wondering if there's any reason I can't go ahead and rivet in the passenger foot box? Would this get in the way of anything I haven't done yet?

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks Blitzboy54! I'm wondering if there's any reason I can't go ahead and rivet in the passenger foot box? Would this get in the way of anything I haven't done yet?

No, not at all. You want to keep the top and outside of the driver open but you can certainly do the passenger foot box, F panels and even a chunk of the cockpit aluminum.

[CaptB]

You'll love the Forte's 8.8.

[David_L]

I just received a bunch of back ordered parts! But doesn't look like the spindles were included so bummer.

[David_L]

I received my pipes but passenger side end is bent up quite a bit and I think I will need to ask for a replacement. The Driver side also has a dent but not sure it will show? Thoughts?

Passenger side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151034&d=1626717109

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151034&d=1626717109

Driver side with the dent. Not sure it will show but do I want to have a dented pipe?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151035&d=1626717228

[Blitzboy54]

I would ask for both and would be surprised if you got any resistance what so ever.

[David_L]

Thanks for the input. I will do that. Once I get the replacements I get them ceramic coated black. I completed my inventory and have very few missing parts. Sent my email to partsales@ with inventory results about 3 weeks ago but not getting anyone at factory five to respond.

[David_L]

Quite a few updates to make! I've been working on fitting and drilling panels while waiting for parts. I've also been putting coatings on some of the panels. After much research hopefully I landed on the right combination for aluminum panels.

Sanding first then using 2 coats of etching primmer. Applying the topcoat after that. In the engine compartment I'm going to use a hammered black. Outside panels I'm using Herculiner .

I put together and fit/drilled the Russ Thompson Trunk Drop. Planning on using nut rivets for the access panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153395&d=1631660674

[David_L]

Mike Forte completed my Engine and did the Dyno! More HP and Torque then a Gen 3! Still waiting for the shipping information.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153393&d=1631660209

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153392&d=1631659886

Also made progress on the Front after I got the upper control arms and spindles. Still waiting for the hub nut and coil spring and can't take it further yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153394&d=1631660546

[hineas]

That engine is a thing of beauty! The dyno curve looks great!

[KDubU]

Nice engine! That is one I am considering for my next build, the 363 is great choice! Funny thing about reading your thread got me feeling like I did when I first got mine and started to build. Now all I need to do is move to another house that has a garage!

[Railroad]

Why don't you go ahead and shorten the rear link on the upper control arms? You will want the range of adjustment with power steering. Nice work.

[David_L]

Thanks guys! I'm very happy with the engine! It should be shipped any day now. I will be more happy when it's setting in my garage! lol But still be a while till it's installed.

[David_L]

Why don't you go ahead and shorten the rear link on the upper control arms? You will want the range of adjustment with power steering. Nice work.

Hi Railroad! Can you expand on the shortening the rear link? I did try doing the initial adjustment but wasn't able to bring in the rear link measurement the the required 7.375 This is with all the adjusters as pulled in as the can get. Best I could do was about 7.5 I would think there should be more adjustment or I'm missing something? see the picture.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153421&d=1631736571

[David_L]

Why don't you go ahead and shorten the rear link on the upper control arms? You will want the range of adjustment with power steering. Nice work.

After doing a search I think I found what you were referring to and that might be why I wasn't able to adjust to that measurement. Pictures from boat737's post. He cut of the nubs on both sides of the rear sleeves. This looks like something I will need to do as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153424&d=1631740775

[Nigel Allen]

Dave,

I reckon you have the steering arms installed on the opposite sides of the car. They should point outward with the large tapered hole pointing down.

Cheers Nigel

[David_L]

Dave,

I reckon you have the steering arms installed on the opposite sides of the car. They should point outward with the large tapered hole pointing down.

Cheers Nigel

Great catch Nigel! Thanks! Another item to take care of.. lol

[David_L]

Shortened the rear sleeves and the steering arms reversed to the correct position. Still waiting on the hub nuts and front coils before I can proceed with the frontend.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153577&d=1632169309

Did the initial install of the rear-end. At this point I just have the 3 links connected, but hey it's starting to look more like a car! lol
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153578&d=1632169333

[Railroad]

Make sure front bolt on rear control arm will come out with body on frame. I run IRS, so not familiar with 3 link. Looks like the grease fitting is pointing up. Is that correct/accessible?
Nice work.

[David_L]

Make sure front bolt on rear control arm will come out with body on frame. I run IRS, so not familiar with 3 link. Looks like the grease fitting is pointing up. Is that correct/accessible?
Nice work.

Railroad, thanks for pointing out the grease fittings.. I made a point of putting them on correctly yet I got them wrong! lol I should be able to remove the lower control arms with the body on. I don't believe the bolt could go in from the other direction.

I am planning on painting the Calipers red next using VHT caliper paint with the VHT clear coat on top of the red paint.

Ok the rear end is now complete. I wasn't shipped the .25 spacers for the Panhard bar but made do using washers. I will need the spacers for the upper link so it's just on with out spacers until I get them shipped to me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153630&d=1632355965
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153629&d=1632355965
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153628&d=1632355965

[John Ibele]

Nice looking engine and good progress. I've got a similar look with the black dress on the front (but with less oomph ... 347). Welcome, and it'll be fun following your progress. It's a great journey.

[David_L]

Nice looking engine and good progress. I've got a similar look with the black dress on the front (but with less oomph ... 347). Welcome, and it'll be fun following your progress. It's a great journey.

Thanks John! I wasn't planning on getting this much engine when I started.. I just kind of evolved! LOL

[David_L]

I started on my pedal box and realized I have a couple of issues.

The 2 switches for brake and clutch are still on back order so will need to wait on them.

I originally was planning on a hydraulic clutch and I ordered that in this kit. Somehow after discussions with Mike Forte I decided to go with a manual clutch using his effort reducer. It appears that because I ordered the hydraulic clutch for the kit, the pedal box didn't come with the clutch cable quadrant kit (that I can find). So I'm assuming I will need to order this from Factory Five? Would this just be part 15613 what would include everything I need? Anything else I'm overlooking?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153884&d=1632858584

[egchewy79]

I can't remember, is there an ordering option for manual vs hydraulic clutch? I thought the clutch quadrant assembly was included on all complete kits. Was this on your POL when you did your inventory or not included in your kit?

[David_L]

I can't remember, is there an ordering option for manual vs hydraulic clutch? I thought the clutch quadrant assembly was included on all complete kits. Was this on your POL when you did your inventory or not included in your kit?

I don't see it listed anywhere in POL. Yes there was an ordering option for hydraulic clutch. I'm just assuming it's not needed when you order the Hydraulic Clutch master cylinder kit (Which I will be selling later. lol)

The good news is I found it in the listed parts for sale and should have it mailed to me shortly.

The other good news is I just got a FEDEX email that I have backorder parts on the way! Of course they don't tell me what's being shipped so it will be a surprise!

By the way, has anyone wished that the parts list was electronic so it could be searched on your PC?? LOL

[460.465USMC]

By the way, has anyone wished that the parts list was electronic so it could be searched on your PC?? LOL

Hi David,

I have a couple electronic versions I pulled down from the forum some time ago. I'm happy to email them to you. They won't exactly match your order, nor did they mine, but I still found them quite useful. Especially early on in my build. If you are interested, PM me your email address and I'll send them to you.

[David_L]

I'm way behind on my update so will start with this one. I got my engine!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158673&d=1639615469

Lifted it up so I could drive the truck out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158674&d=1639615469
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158675&d=1639615469

I added wheels to the shipping mount so I can roll it around when needed.

I might be biased but I think Mike Forte created a work of art!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158676&d=1639615469

[egchewy79]

looks great. you might want to check the depth of your oil pan. you have about 7.5in on a SBF before the pan hangs below the frame rails. I'm sure Forte accounted for these things.

[David_L]

I got my AC system from https://northracecars.com/
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158677&d=1639617113
When fitting the Evaporator in the dash and marking the hole in the firewall I saw the dash brace would be in the way and needed removing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158681&d=1639617113

I was told the brace was only need when someone was doing serious barking of the tires and kept the dash from flexing. I wanted to keep it anyway and it was a good chance to practice and use my welder!

I made a new brace and welded it in and also added brackets to attack the evaporator. And I know my welding really sucks but it should do the job.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158683&d=1639620203

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158685&d=1639620912

Hole in the firewall. I'm not attaching the box till the engine is installed as it could interferer with the install I'm told.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158686&d=1639621281

[David_L]

looks great. you might want to check the depth of your oil pan. you have about 7.5in on a SBF before the pan hangs below the frame rails. I'm sure Forte accounted for these things.

Thanks. I will ask him but I do hope he understands the dimensions needed. I hope.. lol

[David_L]

I ordered the kit for an hydraulic clutch and decided to switch to manual. I was able to find a clutch quadrant assembly, as it didn't come with the kit, and installed it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158689&d=1639622551
I also installed the pedal pads from Mike Forte and really like them way better then the stock pads.

Also installed the brake master cylinders and made the initial adjustments. I wasn't able to get to included black hose clamps for holding the fitting on top of master cylinder to open enough and broke them. I wonder if anyone else had this issue? I put on silver ones shown in picture and have since got black painted ones.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158688&d=1639622551

Accelerator pedal

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158687&d=1639622551

[David_L]

My wife observed me going back and forth to look at the manual on my large office monitor. She t!old my son about it so I got an early Christmas gift from him! This is so much better to see the manual!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158691&d=1639624794

[John Ibele]

Well, you may be behind in your updates, but that's not a shabby one as updates go! Really exciting picking up the engine, and it's a really clean layout. Nice choice in components and builder.

On the clutch, my kit got caught in the move from the initial cable clutch design for the MK4 (wasn't a winner) and the present one, and that meant I had to line up and drill my own hole for the clutch spacer in the front of the footbox. I took pains to line this up precisely so that the clutch cable cleanly entered the slot in the clutch quadrant. This may be aligned well by default but do whatever you need to to ensure that that alignment is spot on. Otherwise the cable will wear against the sides of the slot.

For cable routing, you're going to want to do what you can to get the cable routed as far from the headers as possible, to protect the cable housing from heat. I was able like many others to get it around in front (and underneath) of the DS motor mount. It rests against the oil filter in that spot, but is well away from the heat. With your SBF-based block you will likely be able to do the same thing.

And, pretty sure no one's going to pick on your welding. This forum appreciates those who try, period. Have fun and thanks for the update!

[David_L]

Well, you may be behind in your updates, but that's not a shabby one as updates go! Really exciting picking up the engine, and it's a really clean layout. Nice choice in components and builder.

On the clutch, my kit got caught in the move from the initial cable clutch design for the MK4 (wasn't a winner) and the present one, and that meant I had to line up and drill my own hole for the clutch spacer in the front of the footbox. I took pains to line this up precisely so that the clutch cable cleanly entered the slot in the clutch quadrant. This may be aligned well by default but do whatever you need to to ensure that that alignment is spot on. Otherwise the cable will wear against the sides of the slot.

For cable routing, you're going to want to do what you can to get the cable routed as far from the headers as possible, to protect the cable housing from heat. I was able like many others to get it around in front (and underneath) of the DS motor mount. It rests against the oil filter in that spot, but is well away from the heat. With your SBF-based block you will likely be able to do the same thing.

And, pretty sure no one's going to pick on your welding. This forum appreciates those who try, period. Have fun and thanks for the update!

Hey John, thanks for the clutch cable hole and routing information! I hadn't really started thinking about the routing yet so this this is great info.

I did check with Mike about the oil pan. He says it will fit and may be below the frame but there are no concerns from him or me.

[egchewy79]

You might reconsider the last statement. if the oil pan hangs below the frame, if you hit a raised area of the road, the oil pan/engine will receive the brunt of the impact. That would concern me.

[David_L]

I finally got my tie rod ends in and was able to instill the PS rack and tie rod ends. I'm still waiting on my front brake pads so can't mount the rotor and calipers. I was supposed to get the pads last shipment and received one extra front rotor instead the pads, which were listed on the packing sheet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158789&d=1639793123
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158788&d=1639793087
better focus
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158986&d=1640116065

Steering linkage
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158787&d=1639793019

[David_L]

You might reconsider the last statement. if the oil pan hangs below the frame, if you hit a raised area of the road, the oil pan/engine will receive the brunt of the impact. That would concern me.

I should have done this before, but I just measured my oil pan. It appears to be right at 7.5 inches, so should be the perfect depth, correct?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158992&d=1640119351

[egchewy79]

only one way to find out :)
I ended up using 3 transmission shims from Forte to not only get my pinion angle correct but to get the back of the pan above the bottom of the frame.

[David_L]

only one way to find out :)
I ended up using 3 transmission shims from Forte to not only get my pinion angle correct but to get the back of the pan above the bottom of the frame.

What motor did you use? I wonder if that's normal to have to use shims for the pinion angle?

[Jryasko]

If you have not filled that differential yet, save yourself some aggravation, remove the cover throw the gasket away and seal the cover with oil resistant silicone. Let it sit for a day before filling it. I can't remember which silicone it is but I believe it is gray and has the most oil resistance.

[egchewy79]

What motor did you use? I wonder if that's normal to have to use shims for the pinion angle?

I have a 289SBF with a T5. My pan is a kevko cobra racing pan around 7” and just barely is above the rails with 3 shims from forte.

[John Ibele]

Yes, typically you'll need to shim the back end of the transmission to get the right angles for the joints on either end of your driveshaft. Typically these will need to something like between 1 and 3 degrees, but without introducing a large angle between the drivetrain and the differential (pinion angle). Do a bit of a google search and it should become clear. Pick up an angle gauge for about 30 bucks, which will have a magnet to hold it to balancer (to find engine and trans angle), driveshaft, and diff. Anything not clear will be just a shout away on the forum. You can buy spacers. You can also make your own with a bit of aluminum stock. I had some 0.090" sheet left from some other fab work and used that. A little reading needed, but it comes pretty quickly once you wrap your head around it and make a few trial measurements.

[John Ibele]

And man, Mike built you a handsome engine. Love the front dress on that thing. Nice job.

[David_L]

If you have not filled that differential yet, save yourself some aggravation, remove the cover throw the gasket away and seal the cover with oil resistant silicone. Let it sit for a day before filling it. I can't remember which silicone it is but I believe it is gray and has the most oil resistance.

Jryasko, I already filled the differential. I don't see any issues with leaks. Are you saying the Moser factory seal is bad?

[Jryasko]

The gasket supplied even with High Tack on it was dripping from the cover. The High Oil Resistant RTV if allowed to dry overnight will work fine no gasket required.

[egchewy79]

I had issues w/ a leak using the paper gasket provided w/ my Moser. had to drain the rear end and replace the gasket w/ RTV. no issues since.

[DIBaledo]

David,
You seem to be doing quite well, even with the lengthy POL.
I'm getting ready to finalize my order, but I don't anticipate it will be delivered until early 2023. Following your build thread with interest, you see:
1. This will be a retirement project for me as well,
2. You live relatively close - I'm in Aledo on the other side of Fort Worth, and
3. Us Daves need to stick together!

[WIS89]

Dave-

I like the updates a few weeks back, and I love that engine from Mike -- he does quality work!

I also wanted to compliment your son! That is quite a rig and quite a Christmas present. Would you mind telling him that I too hate going back and forth to the office to read the manual on my computer? HAHA

Thanks for letting us follow along, and keep up the good work!

Regards,

Steve

[David_L]

I've been working on coating and installing cabin panels. I'm really happy with the herculiner bed liner. That stuff won't be coming off anytime soon. Just trying to scrape edges off with a razor blade it quite the job! lol The hammered rustoleum paint, not so good. Very easy to chip but oh well. I will always be kicking myself I didn't do power coat!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163616&d=1646775985

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163615&d=1646775985

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163614&d=1646775985

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163617&d=1646775985

[David_L]

Dave-

I like the updates a few weeks back, and I love that engine from Mike -- he does quality work!

I also wanted to compliment your son! That is quite a rig and quite a Christmas present. Would you mind telling him that I too hate going back and forth to the office to read the manual on my computer? HAHA

Thanks for letting us follow along, and keep up the good work!

Regards,

Steve

Hey Steve! Thanks for the post. It definitely saves me a lot of walking back and forth. And my son will love your comments. He keeps up with my build thread, so I'm sure he's seen this! He finally sold his S10 that we Air bagged all 4 wheels a few years ago.. Now that was a very long weekend/Week.. lol

[David_L]

The next step in the manual is the fuel system. Since I'm using an in tank Holley fuel pump 12-345 that uses 6NA fittings trying to match up with the fuel system that came with the kit wasn't making sense. So I'm planning on building lines from scratch using PTFE Nylon Braided Fuel Hose and 6NA black fittings for Out and return lines. The HOLLEY SNIPER 550-510 has a built in fuel pressure regulator I plan to use.

I haven't worked out all the details on where I'm going to mount the filter, but will run the hose on the outside passenger frame. I'm still waiting on a filter bracket and hose brackets to come in.

Installed fuel pump, vent, and sending unit:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163621&d=1646776061

Fuel pump filter inside the tank baffles:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163620&d=1646776061

Fuel hose and fittings.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163619&d=1646776061

Added 3 coats of clearcoat to the tank filler tube. Hopefully that will protect it a bit
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163618&d=1646776061

[John Ibele]

Well, that's more polish than I put on my filler neck, that's for sure! Very nice. Did you order your OEM replacement for the gasket between that and the tank? Folks have had issues with the kit-provided part, and going to the OEM part is definitely recommended if you don't have it. Ford P/N F4zz9072da (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q6QO7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You can find other posts on the forum with more background, if you need it.

[David_L]

Well, that's more polish than I put on my filler neck, that's for sure! Very nice. Did you order your OEM replacement for the gasket between that and the tank? Folks have had issues with the kit-provided part, and going to the OEM part is definitely recommended if you don't have it. Ford P/N F4zz9072da (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q6QO7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You can find other posts on the forum with more background, if you need it.

Thanks for the info John!! Exactly why I'm doing this thread! I will order it now.

[Springsyeti]

Awesome thread and sweet motor.

[David_L]

Awesome thread and sweet motor.

Thanks Springsyeti! Hopefully I will make it detailed enough someone can get some uses out of it.

[David_L]

I decided it was time to start looking at header options. Mike Forte let me know I can use standard 302 headers with the Boss 363. As I'm using EFI I need an O2 port. I will most likely go with the long pipe headers supplied from either FF or GAS-N and I will be using the Stainless side pipes from FF.

Note: I originally ordered the plain steel side pipes as I'm going to have them Ceramic coated in black. They were still on backorder as the first set arrived damaged. They are now shipping me the stainless side pipes for now extra charge, and they have no ETA on the plain steel pipes.

1. Use OEM mustang headers with the kit included J pipes:

This option appeared attractive the J pipe has an O2 port built in. It would also be fairly inexpensive to buy OEM headers. But drawbacks seem to be appearance and a loss of HP.


2. Use long pipe headers supplied from FF or GAS-N:

During my first forum searches I found there were no O2 ports in the headers, but it appears that this issue has been corrected in both FF and GAS-N. There are now collectors in the headers so the O2 sensor can be placed in engine compartment. The GAS-N headers are about $100 more.

I did see that the GAS-N headers might have more options like 1-3/4", 1-7/8" or Step-Header. With Step-Header the way to go?

My main questions are:

Which one will I have less fitment issues with? (Less Breeze wedge adapters)

Which one is made better? I'm guessing GAS-N as it's not made somewhere else..

This subject has maybe been beaten to death, but I'm willing to bet there will be guys still interested and any input would be great!

Update: I talked to Mike Forte and he said the 1 3/4 pipe size is more then enough for the 363 motor. That should also provide more room in the engine compartment as well. Please provide any thoughts you might have, but at this point I'm most likely going with GAS-N long pipe headers at 1 3/4 and O2 bung.

[David_L]

Trying to catch up on my posts!

I built and ran the fuel lines from the tank to the engine compartment. I left some extra hose with not ends until I know what length will be needed.

The fuel filter was supplied by Mike Forte and appears to be the stock filter for Mustang so I'm going with it.. I also used the quick connect 6AN fitting so it will be fairly easy to replace.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171524&d=1661473467

Mounted the fuel filter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171528&d=1661473467

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171525&d=1661473467


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171527&d=1661473467

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171529&d=1661473496

[David_L]

I built the bracket for my brake reservoirs and installed. I used rivnuts to mount the bracket and reservoirs.

I used 4AN fuel line and fittings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171531&d=1661473567

[David_L]

Flex lines for front and back installed. I realized after installing my front flex lines I didn't have the back ones or the clips as I ordered my brakes from Mike Forte. So I ordered them from Breeze as he had the flex lines, banjo bolts and clips.

I also realized that every one of my calibers needed to be switched from left to right as the bleed screw wasn't on top.. you would think I would have gotten at least one set correct? lol

And after the fact, I saw that many guys install the clip horizontally instead of vertically but hopefully it will work fine this way.



Front:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171533&d=1661473567

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171532&d=1661473567

Rear:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171538&d=1661473613

[David_L]

After much research I decide to use the lines provided in the kit as I could get different lengths from my local O'Reilly's. I also didn't want to spend the money for the tool required for a double bevel and learning how to use it.

I did use a 51', 8' and 12' (for the rear) line and was able to keep the extra coils to a minimum.

Master Cylinder connection. I ended up switching to the outside MC later for the front.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171535&d=1661473613

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171536&d=1661473613

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171537&d=1661473613

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171534&d=1661473567

[David_L]

I kind of took the easy way out and routed the rear lines on the outside of the foot box per what was shown in the manual. Hopefully I won't regret it, but it was fairly easy to do. I may been to add some padding under the line at the top of the foot box to make sure it's not damaged later.

MC connections
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171576&d=1661535456

Front of footbox
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171578&d=1661535456

underneath
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171541&d=1661473651

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171579&d=1661535654

Attaching to the T fitting and connection to flex line. This was the only place I can to coil extra hard line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171543&d=1661473651

Here is where I should have rounded the corners as I needed up short a foot.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171545&d=1661473679

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171546&d=1661473679

[David_L]

This was a bit of a pain as I didn't have a helper handy.

I did the bench bleeding on the car then did gravity and used a vacuum pump to get it started. I finished up doing the passenger front and back brakes first and attached bottles with hose to the nipple of both.
After much pumping and filling reservoir I got them somewhat air free so this worked on the drivers side. I went back and forth a couple time and finely it looks air free. I actually had no leaks to any of my connections!

MC bench bleed setup. During the bleeding I got my reservoirs up as high as I could.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171530&d=1661473567

[David_L]

I've started to research wiring and there are a couple of mods I have to be aware of.

1. I'm installing AC in the right side of the firewall
2. Holley sniper EFI so need to research where to mount and connect this.
3. Using the Breeze front batter mount.
4. Currently contacting Russ about his column mounted direction signal. I don't think this will require much change?

I have the Breeze radiator mound and shroud and I plan on running the wire harness under the radiator the way many have done.

But just starting my research at this point and any tips would be great!

Also I trying to figure out what the Russ Thompson trunk hoop mod does. I can't seem to find any good pictures of it, including his web site. lol very low res pictures.

[Fman]

Nice looking build, engine looks sweet... you don't see them with A/C often. I hope your oil pan works out for you, mine had to be 7" to be up inside the frame but I am also using fixed mounts which drops the engine lower than poly mounts.

[David_L]

Nice looking build, engine looks sweet... you don't see them with A/C often. I hope your oil pan works out for you, mine had to be 7" to be up inside the frame but I am also using fixed mounts which drops the engine lower than poly mounts.

Since I'm getting closer to engine install I guess I better revisit the whole oil pan issue. I find it hard to believe that Mike Forte would sell me something that won't work correctly. I called him and asked about it. He says that guy's were worrying to much about oil pan depth. Not sure it that's correct or not, but he has a lot of experience. I did measure again and the depth appears to be about 8.5 inches from the lip to the bottom of drain plug. Is a Boss 363 block going to set a little higher then a standard SBF 302 block?

For guys that use donor cars, do they always replace the stock 302 oil pan?

If I do need to replace the oil pan, what are good options for the Boss 363 and what other parts will I need to replace? Dipstick ect.. I'm guessing what I currently have is a standard mustang pan

Also I was reading that I might need to get different motor mounts for the Boss 363 block or I will need to mod the ones that came with the kit? Sounds like I need to call Mike again.

[Chopper]

For what it's worth, I have a 306 with a fox oil pan, the drain plug and bottom of the rear sump are lower than the frame. I also have a Quicktime SFI bellhousing that hangs down below the frame. I haven't had an issue yet. I do live in VA, so we don't have some of the truely winter destroyed roads like more northern states.

With that said, I am considering getting a low profile oil pan and cutting off the bellhousing flange where it protrudes this winter...

[David_L]

For what it's worth, I have a 306 with a fox oil pan, the drain plug and bottom of the rear sump are lower than the frame. I also have a Quicktime SFI bellhousing that hangs down below the frame. I haven't had an issue yet. I do live in VA, so we don't have some of the truely winter destroyed roads like more northern states.

With that said, I am considering getting a low profile oil pan and cutting off the bellhousing flange where it protrudes this winter...

Wow! Yet another item to worry about! LOL Never even thought about my bellhousing!

[Chopper]

Most bellhousings don't hang down that low, but if you have an SFI bellhousing there is a good chance it will. It is surely easier to cut out of the car though...

[David_L]

After much input from the guys in the general forum, I ordered a Kevko Corba pan at 7.5 inches before I saw that the Champ pan is 7 inches! They had already sent me a UPS tracking number. lol Quick service. But I was able to call them and have it canceled.

Just ordered the Champ pan, pickup and dipstick and he said it will ship out today or tomorrow. At 7 inches there shouldn't be any more worries about the oil pan hanging out! Just wish I had paid a bit more when I ordered the engine and had the correct one installed then.

Also today I called Mike Forte and asked about the engine mounts supplied by FF. He said to send the mounts to him and he will modify for the Boss block. I dropped them in the mail.

Also shipped my steering wheel boss to Russ Thompson for the turn signal mode. Before I sent it off I tried to put in on the shaft. Wow was just trying to get it on over the first quarter inch and it was peeling aluminum back so I gave up. Anyone else had issue just getting it started?

I also started mounting my Breeze front battery box. And of course realized I'm going to have to do some shifting to my front brake line.

[David_L]

Been slack on posting updates so here's a few.

Breeze battery box mounted with battery and Neg cable installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182662&d=1680891106
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182663&d=1680891106
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182664&d=1680891106

[David_L]

Main wiring harnes installed.

I beleve this is the wire I cut to wire into my Sniper Blue wire. I wire to the lead going to the relay. I'm assuming I can use the wire going to the fuel pump fuse as an additional fused power source.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182665&d=1680891436

[David_L]

Finished installing trunk panels and drop trunk.

Also installed the Ebreak. Since I didn't order the rear brakes from FF I also didn't receive an ebrake cable so I found one on Amazon. "WHYQL Emergency Parking Brake Cable Kit Adjustable Compatible with Lokar Floor Mount Units/Disc or Drum Brakes" It worked perfectly. I saw lots of discussions about routing the cables but went with the standard under tube routing. Mounted the cable end cradle on the seatbelt flange and used the hardware that came with the brake cable. Just needed to shorten the cable and mount using the Lokar Floor Mount that clamps the cable ends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182673&d=1680893823

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182674&d=1680894063

[David_L]

Engine Install! The install went somewhat smothly. I first installed the transmission mount to the transmission. I also pulled out the shipping donut from end of transmission. Used a pair of channellock pliers for a good grip and worked it out from side to side. I heard you can keep it in but makes it hard to install the drive shaft.

Once I raised the engine up I removed the shipping brackets and installed the "modified by Mike Forte" motor mounts.

Everything went well till I had the engine over the mounts and realized the PS reservoir was getting blocked by the steering linkage! So I had to remove the pump and reservoir before I could seat the engine. My wife was my helper!

Once seated and bolted in I mounted the transmision under carriage mount. But discovered that to line up the holes to the transmission mount there was interference with a tab on the transmission to the Ebrake mount.. I had done researh and read there should be now problem with the TKX. Not true in my case, but I was able to use a hack saw from the transmission tunnel to cut off the amount needed to get to line up the holes.

So engine is now installed!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182666&d=1680893593

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182668&d=1680893593

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182667&d=1680893593


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182670&d=1680893593



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182671&d=1680893621

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182672&d=1680893621

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, David. Seems like there's plenty of surprises on these builds. I've encountered my fair share. Glad you had a successful drivetrain install. Big milestone.

[John Ibele]

I’m pretty sure that last-minute use of the hacksaw for this purpose is a rite of passage with these builds. For that and all the other progress: congratulations!

[David_L]

I’m pretty sure that last-minute use of the hacksaw for this purpose is a rite of passage with these builds. For that and all the other progress: congratulations!

Here's the tab I removed to clear the Ebrake.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183133&d=1681831738

[David_L]

I installed the driveline and used the TREMEC app to adjust the angles. I found I needed spacers to set the angle correctly and ordered them from Mike Forte. It seems the mount for the TKX must be different then the TKO as I had to drill holes closer the to middle of the plates for them to fit.

I put jackstands under the rearend so weight was on the suspension and used 2 spacers (1/2 inch) to get with in specifications. I'm not sure that even with weight on, if the suspension even moved?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183129&d=1681831565

[David_L]

I finally got the dash covered. I couldn't use the FFR cover as it had a crease that I could't remove. And I used all the tricks.. Laying out in the sun and a steamer. No luck.

When the JOANNS and got 2 yards of marine vinyl. Added a 1 mil foam then the cover usine DAP Products Weldwood Landau Top & Trim. My wife embroidered a Corba logo where the glove box would be. I can't have one since I will be installing AC.

Installed all the gages as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183134&d=1681832908

[David_L]

I used extra marine vinyl and sent it to Herb and he made me some gorgeous door panels with the large pocket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183135&d=1681833293

[David_L]

I installed all my sensors and completed wiring of the engine sensors and Sniper EFI connections.

I also installed a new coolent fitting that allows heater hose and coolent temp sensor mounting for the gage. There is another coolent temp sensor for the EFI.

Capped off the vacuum advance on the distributor.

7 pin connector
1. Ran main power (red) and (black) wires directly to the battery
2. Connected the pink 12 volt wire to the Orange EFI or Coil wire. I beleve I could have also used the Elec Choke wire as well
3. Connected the Blue fuel pump wire to the Tan jumper wire on the fuse box leading the to relay after cutting the jumper. I know there are a couple ways to do the which mean relocating the Inerta switch but I wanted to keep it simple and use the RF harness as much as posable.
4. Connect the yellow wire to the coil (-) post

Not using the sprial pigtail



10 pin connector
1. Connect the fan control (light blue) wire to the top of
2. I will also need the Orange (Connect to a ground triggered A/C relay) I'm assuming I will connect to the Hayden 3647 relay but not sure where at this point as all the connections are listed a + and I need a ground. Installing and wiring the AC will be later.

Haven't install the EFI monitor or the O2 sensor (Installing headers is soon).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183155&d=1681835985

EFI wiring
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183154&d=1681835985

[David_L]

I made the last fuel connections to the Sniper.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183156&d=1681836739

[David_L]

So last night I started looking at wiring the dash and the first item I looked at was the speedometer then I got stuck.. lol

I'm using the autometer ultra lite gages with tremec tkx. I pluged in the 2 wire speedo plug in the transmission which I be to be Sine wave2 wire sender (VSS). I think the Dark Green connects to the Signal tab on the Speedo and the Gray Signal return just gets grounded in the RF dash harness?

Also it appears that I should have received a wiring harness with the autometer ultra lite gages? I'm wondering if that was left out as the gages were backorder?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183159&d=1681837917

[F500guy]

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/faqs/detail.cfm?id=38

183160

[David_L]

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/faqs/detail.cfm?id=38

183160

Thanks F500guy! I feel stupid as I just realized the bracket was covering the labels for the bottom row of tabs! Makes a big difference to see the labels!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183161&d=1681843556

[F500guy]

I know I will be that guy soon, got to try and help when i can!

[Railroad]

I installed the driveline and used the TREMEC app to adjust the angles. I found I needed spacers to set the angle correctly and ordered them from Mike Forte. It seems the mount for the TKX must be different then the TKO as I had to drill holes closer the to middle of the plates for them to fit.

I put jackstands under the rearend so weight was on the suspension and used 2 spacers (1/2 inch) to get with in specifications. I'm not sure that even with weight on, if the suspension even moved?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183129&d=1681831565
Push the u joint snap ring into the groove. Ends of snap ring will be even when right.
Good work.

[David_L]

Push the u joint snap ring into the groove. Ends of snap ring will be even when right.
Good work.

Thanks! I didn't even notice the rings. Great example of why I do this build thread!

[David_L]

I got my dash all wired up but still need to clean it up a bit. Also pulled the front therm fan wire from the front harness to use with switch for manual override of the Sniper if needed. I'm planning on using the button on the Russ Thompson turn signal for my horn.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183283&d=1682122312

[David_L]

I received my new PS pump with the remote reservoir and installed the pump. But now need to find a place to mount my reservoir.

Will this work? Hopefully you can see where it is as it was hard to hold the reservoir and take a picture! lol

Is it better to install the PS lines before I install my radiator? Wasn't sure if it would be in the way or not..
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183284&d=1682123020

[Jeff Kleiner]

That reservoir location will conflict with hood hinge gas strut.

Jeff

[460.465USMC]

Is it better to install the PS lines before I install my radiator? Wasn't sure if it would be in the way or not..


Hi David. It certainly is easier to install them with the radiator out, but I think it can be done afterward as well. I removed my radiator during drivetrain install, so took advantage of the openness and installed the lines.

[David_L]

That reservoir location will conflict with hood hinge gas strut.

Jeff

Jeff thanks so much for the input. Do you have any suggestions on where I could mount it? Hood hinge gas struts are a mod and not standard, correct? I've searched for pictures and this was all I could come up with. I will need to nail this down before I order hoses and parts from Breeze.

Thanks David

[David_L]

I've made some progress, just haven't been updating regularly. lol

I didn't liike how long the FF High and low preasure lines were, plus they didn't include what I needed for the remote reservoir. They were AN10 lines. Also the rack fittings that came with the kit were both for the high preassure and I needed the low preasure fitting. Why FF supplies 2 fittings I will never know.

I ordered my lines and fittings from Breeze to build my own, plus his low preasure 6AN fitting. I've since also ordered the High preasure fitting as I can't get it to stop leaking with just the o-ring. His come with a washer and o-ring so hopefully that will resolve my leak?

After receiving the parts I realized I could have just built the lines using the same parts I built my fuel lines with. Which was Black Braided Nylon with SS brading over the PTFE.

I hope the location I picked for the reservoir won't interfere with anyting later, but the options were limited. It did requre a bit of a dip for the return line to the pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184686&d=1684440383

Return line. This was the best configuration I could come up with without making the radius of the turn too tight and go under the steering linkage.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184684&d=1684440383

Rack connections. It was tight going over the top but it works. Except for the leak.. lol
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184685&d=1684440383

[David_L]

I installed the headers without too much problem. That dosn't happen often building this car!

FYI I had the headers and side pipe ceramic coated. For black it requred a base coat then a top coat for the black. I think they came out nicely but a little pricey. Something like $800 for the headers, side pipes and the heat shelds. The insides were also coated with the base coat. This should really help with the heat control as well.

PS
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184682&d=1684440294

DS I have installed the O2 Sensor as well after I took the picture
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184683&d=1684440294

[David_L]

Since I now had the headers installed I could install the clutch cable. I used the cable (2 for one deal from Mike Forte) with firewall adjuster and he also sent me the cable adjuster extention, which I ended up not needing. I also added the clutch stop bolt and filed down the edges on the clutch quadrant to keep from cutting/wearing the cable.

I also removed the stock mounting bracket as I could see no good place to mount it. Instead I used a cable clip and riveted it in place on the 3/4 tubing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184675&d=1684440156

Cable routing
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184676&d=1684440156

Added some heat shelding just in case.. It also protects the cable where it was touching the corner of the DS footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184674&d=1684440156

The bare aluminum adapter that I don't seem to need. Does anyone need one?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184673&d=1684440156

[David_L]

I'm really getting excited! I feel I'm so close to my first start now!

I installed the radiator fan and breeze shroud then installed the radiator using the breeze lower support. I used about a 55 degree angle. I read in the forums anywhere from 51 to 58, and wasn't sure it matters that much?

I also installed the upper lines and lower using the SS flex lines and adapters. I needed a 90 degree hose from the water pump the the T. I did order an aluminum T fill fitting, but turned out the overflow nipple was to close for the ff hose adapter to work, so went with the plastic one in the kit for now.

I used only SS T-Bolt Hose Clamps and also use edwardb or Jeff Kleiner (I think) trick to add 3 small pan head SS screws on the end of each SS flex hose connection. This simulates a nipple so the how adaptor shouldn't pop off down the road.

Installed the FF coolent reservoir and I've read where it might be too small but others have said it works fine.. We will see.

I also install a couple of 1-3/4 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamps with rubber cushioning for the lower hose. Then I filled it up! Maybe 3.5 gals or so. No leaks the next day..

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184679&d=1684440217

Fan shroud
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184680&d=1684440217


Upper Hose
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184681&d=1684440217
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184691&d=1684440919

Lower Hose
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184678&d=1684440217
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184677&d=1684440217

Colent reservoir
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184690&d=1684440919

[David_L]

Prep for the SS Flex hose by adding screws to keep from popout.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184692&d=1684446673

[David_L]

Next item it to install the dash temporarily at least, and do some electrical testing and install my side pipes.

Also I may post this issue in the main forum for more feed back. Before I sent my steering hub to Russ for the turn signal mod, I started to fit it on the shaft. It seemed to me that the hole was too small and it was actually pealing back some aluminum. I did have the flat spots lined up. When I was causing so much resistance I stoped trying to install.

Are the any tricks for installing this? I just seems the hole in the hub is too small and I don't want to damage it, expecially after Russ Thomson modified it!

I will post some pictures

See where it's peeling back the aluminum?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184688&d=1684440383

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184689&d=1684440400

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184687&d=1684440383

[David_L]

Installing my dash using dropped screws that will allow me to remove it with the body on.

Also attempted to install the Russ Thompson Turn Signal but of course I have an issue. The set screw stripped. Don't know if it happed during disassembly or what. Looking at ways to fix this issue. May requre taping and using a larger screw. I'm also wondering if I can't just use a longer screw the same size, drill through the collar and add a small nut inside the collar. I dosn't appear that it will interfer with anything that I can see. I might need to grind off the tip of the set screw to remove that fixed washer/bracker as it appears to be pressed on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184817&d=1684862674

[Fman]

That set screw should not need to be very tight, have you tried a pair of needle nose to grab screw?

[David_L]

I can remove the set screw once I remove the pressed on clip on the end with a dremel. With the threads striped there is nothing to leverage/tighen with.

I think I'm going to get a slighly longer screw and drill a hole in the inside collar then srew into a nut on the inside of the collar. I dosn't appear that it will interferewith anything.

[David_L]

I was able to press on the hub using a Power Steering pully installer. The threads fit and it has a bearing on the pressing head. I will also need a pully remover to get is off as it's so tight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184815&d=1684862626

[David_L]

Connected a 6 amp battery charger to battery leads to test my ignition and gages. Everything seemed to be working and sniper relay was triggering, but my fuel pump wasn't coming on! I tested continuity on my ignition switch, and it was fine. So started testing the RF fuel pump relay. It also seemed to be sending power to the fuel pump. So I dug out the weather pak connection I built and the tank. A cheap connector not a name brand.. lol I found one of the male connectors had pushed back so wasn't getting power.

After fixing that, the fuel pump came on fine!

I added 3.5 gallons of gas and put a heavy plastic bag over the fill tube and zip tied it in place. Turned the ignition switch on to check for leaks. And of course, I had a leak on of the fuel filter fitting. I just required some tightening, and I pressurized once more. No leaks! Even heard the fuel pressure regulator in the sniper click.

[David_L]

Installed the side pipes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185418&d=1685989946

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185419&d=1685989946

[David_L]

I waited till Sunday when my son could come over to try my first start. I spent a little time tying up lose wiring and making sure everything was clear. We rolled it out of the garage for the first time, blocked the wheels and tried it out! As you can see it was successful!


https://youtu.be/Alf_RC97-D8

I do have a short list of issues I need to resolve.

1. Fan didn't come on automatically once the temp was at 180. But I was able to use my manual fan switch on the dash to turn it on, so that's good. This may be related to the other issue. My temp gauge was reading about 28 degrees less then the temp in the sniper. The sniper was saying the fan was on even with the manual switch off..

I'm thinking this may be due to using 2 different sensors, one for the Sniper on the front DS of the manifold and the other one is on the PS but in a stem with a heater hose nipple. Could this cause discrepancy?

Could I just move the gauge feed wire to use the sniper sensor?

2. Voltmeter not working. Should be an easy fix as it should only require a + and - feed. The voltage on the sniper monitor was fine.

Here's a picture of the temp sensors. DS is for the sniper and is just to the right of the distributer partly hidden in picture and PS is for the gauge and it's on the back side of that brass fitting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185420&d=1685992863

[David_L]

I did a check out of the car so after first start, my son and I went for a short ride! Here are a couple of observations.

Transmission is way tighter than other manual transmissions I’ve driven.

Incredible torque! Rear tires broke traction with just a small amount of acceleration when I touched the gas in the video!

I did notice a couple of times, a loud backfire or popping when I let up on the gas pedal. Not sure if that's a concern or not.

Brakes required a lot of force to work, but this might be because it's been years since I drove something without power brakes.

All in all, it was a blast! And I only went maybe 300 yards.


https://youtu.be/CnNwP-2Nw1s