Brakes | Whitby | Pedal goes to the floor

[Padawan]

All,
I replaced the plastic reservoirs I got from Whibty because one was leaking. I got Jamar triple reservoirs, clutch/front/rear brakes.

Clutch has been bled — works perfect.

I’ve got the same problem as before — bled the master with the brake booster installed — pedal was hard as a rock.

Now that I’ve bled the brakes — no bubbles, went through 2 bottles of brake fluid — pedal goes to the floor

150069

150070

Thoughts?

It’s the last hurdle before a test drive…

[Norm B]

You have to fix and adjust your rear brakes before you will get the pedal to firm up. The anti rattle spring on the pad on the piston side is not correctly installed. There is a gap between that pad and the rotor. There is no way you will get any brake pressure like that.

The master cylinder is designed to move a small amount of fluid at high pressure and can't compensate for improperly installed or adjusted parts.

After the parts are correctly installed, follow the rear brake adjusting procedure using the park brake to properly set the pad distance.

HTH

Norm

[rich grsc]

Norm, we both have told the SAME story.:confused:

[Padawan]

You have to fix and adjust your rear brakes before you will get the pedal to firm up. The anti rattle spring on the pad on the piston side is not correctly installed. There is a gap between that pad and the rotor. There is no way you will get any brake pressure like that.

The master cylinder is designed to move a small amount of fluid at high pressure and can't compensate for improperly installed or adjusted parts.

After the parts are correctly installed, follow the rear brake adjusting procedure using the park brake to properly set the pad distance.

HTH

Norm

Ok — how do I adjust the anti rattle spring on the pad or take it apart and reinstall it — I did not attached the spring — it was on the caliper when it came in the box — and there’s nothing in the instructions from factory five on how to adjust or that it needs to be adjusted — https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/IRS-2015-11.65in-BRAKES.pdf

Dan at Factory Five said I needed to bled the brakes before the eBrake would work — I explained they’ve been bled repeatedly then I got silence

Trust me, she’s neighing and ready to take a loop around the track — but she’s got four bad hooves - the Pony wants to shoot the boot :)

[Norm B]

Take it apart and re-:instal it. 1 should look like 2 in the picture.

Norm

[Padawan]

Take it apart and re-:instal it. 1 should look like 2 in the picture.

Norm

On it, that's two bolts... be back shortly

[Padawan]

On it, that's two bolts... be back shortly


Ok - taken apart and adjusted the spring and put back together — both rears are matching

150101

150102

Foot still goes to the floor, what are the next steps…

Thanks in advance

[Norm B]

Cycle the parking brake about 50 times full up to full down.

[Padawan]

Cycle the parking brake about 50 times full up to full down.

On it…

Stay tuned…

[Padawan]

Cycled the parking brake 50 times full up to down on parking...

Unfortunately the brake pedal still goes to the floor...no leaks anywhere...

[Norm B]

Try pumping the brake pedal to build pressure, hold the pedal down and then cycle the park brake. If that doesn't work you may have to take the rear callipers off again and turn the pistons out until you can just slide the assembly over the rotor.

Norm

PS What park brake handle are you using and are your cables properly adjusted? Can you check that pulling the park brake handle is actually moving the lever at the caliper.

[egchewy79]

just curious, what method did you use to bleed your brakes? do you have pics of your brake lines? It sounds like you still might have air in your line somewhere.

[Padawan]

just curious, what method did you use to bleed your brakes? do you have pics of your brake lines? It sounds like you still might have air in your line somewhere.

I'm using the Factory Five ebrake handle.

When I pull on the eBrake handle the spring moving...I got under car late last night car to review to ebrake cables and there is no additional slack to tighten.

The last time, we used a pressure bleeder, motive brand, and was unable to get a firm pedal.

On the pedal bleeding...it was all manual...foot down, hold, release value, tighten...we did this for over and hour...went around the car 3 times.

Tried gravity bleeding last night after trying to set ebrake by pulling a full up and down 50 times.

Factory Five said the ebrake would not work until the brakes have been bled, per Dan.

[Norm B]

I am not familiar with the FFR park brake handle and the available adjustment with it. At your caliper make sure the park brake lever is able to fully release. Hopefully someone experienced with this set up will contribute.

Norm

[Padawan]

I am not familiar with the FFR park brake handle and the available adjustment with it. At your caliper make sure the park brake lever is able to fully release. Hopefully someone experienced with this set up will contribute.

Norm

Dan at Factory Five thinks I didn't proper pressure bleed master cylinder correctly.

I bleed the master cylinder on the car, replaced a brake line (don't ask :), then re-bled the system....I was getting tiny bubbles out of the front right caliper so I tighten all the blots and connections to the front reservoir...then the little bubbles went away...no bubbles from any of the calipers...I think part of the noise in the rear brakes is they flex a little bit when you press on them.

The pedal does now stop about 1 inch away from the floor, but the front brakes are working for sure...

After everything was bled...I did pull the eBrake handle up and down 50 times as requested before.

The rear brake are very tight against the rotor...

We going to give it a 3 mile an hour test drive tomorrow morning to test the brakes...

[Norm B]

Does the parking brake work now?

[Padawan]

Does the parking brake work now?

We still think there is something not right about the eBrake, but we were going to test it when we roll it down the driveway…

The rear calipers are really tight…so not 100% sold on there performance

How much braking power should be coming out of the rear brakes?

The front takes the most of the braking load?