txboiler
06-19-2021, 01:06 PM
I am installing the rear wall in the drivers compartment and have run into a minor fit issue. I believe that my floor panels are two far outboard by approx .10 to .125 inches, which brings the upstanding angle of the on the back side forward from where it should be. the first photo below shows the gap between the inboard seat belt bracket and the transmission tunnel. these brackets are hard up against the inboard side of the clearance cuts in the floor. If I centered the brackets in the clearance cut I would be shifting the panel approximately 0.050" to 0.060" inches inboard. The passenger side is worse than the drivers side
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You can see from the photos below that the rear panel and the rear side panels are not too far off from the alignment marks I made prior to removing and drilling any of the panels. The two sheetmetal screw holes that we used during shipping line up but not not great.
149698 149699
The last photos below show the gap that I have between the vertical 2" x 3" tubes and the horizontal 2"x 3" tube and upper 1" x 1" tube.
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The challenge I have is that I have already drilled, siliconed and riveted many of the other panels so I am left with what I see are two options.
1) drill out the rivets, try to deal with the silicone and shift the floor panels inboard. This will bring the upstanding angle on the floor panel inboard and back since it is on an angle. It will allow the rear panel to move back and be in better contact with the chassis. I would need to drill the existing holes oversize and use over size rivets. shifting the floor panel inboard will create a slightly larger gap between the inboard seat belt bracket and transmission tunnel allowing more space for the hardware.
2) leave the panels where they are. Fabricate aluminum spacers to go in between the rear panel and chassis. Drill and install using longer rivets. I could address the gap between the seat belt bracket and transmission tunnel with either a thin nut or cutting an access hole in the transmission tunnel side wall for installing the nut. a plug could be installed to close the hole up and allow access in future if needed.
option 1 above seems to the a Pain in the butt and risky to bend panels when trying to remove the silicone....causing more down stream problems. Option 2 seems like the better approach but will driving the perfectionist in me crazy.
Have others run into similar fit problems and have any suggestions?
149696 149697
You can see from the photos below that the rear panel and the rear side panels are not too far off from the alignment marks I made prior to removing and drilling any of the panels. The two sheetmetal screw holes that we used during shipping line up but not not great.
149698 149699
The last photos below show the gap that I have between the vertical 2" x 3" tubes and the horizontal 2"x 3" tube and upper 1" x 1" tube.
149700 149701 149702
The challenge I have is that I have already drilled, siliconed and riveted many of the other panels so I am left with what I see are two options.
1) drill out the rivets, try to deal with the silicone and shift the floor panels inboard. This will bring the upstanding angle on the floor panel inboard and back since it is on an angle. It will allow the rear panel to move back and be in better contact with the chassis. I would need to drill the existing holes oversize and use over size rivets. shifting the floor panel inboard will create a slightly larger gap between the inboard seat belt bracket and transmission tunnel allowing more space for the hardware.
2) leave the panels where they are. Fabricate aluminum spacers to go in between the rear panel and chassis. Drill and install using longer rivets. I could address the gap between the seat belt bracket and transmission tunnel with either a thin nut or cutting an access hole in the transmission tunnel side wall for installing the nut. a plug could be installed to close the hole up and allow access in future if needed.
option 1 above seems to the a Pain in the butt and risky to bend panels when trying to remove the silicone....causing more down stream problems. Option 2 seems like the better approach but will driving the perfectionist in me crazy.
Have others run into similar fit problems and have any suggestions?