Forte Throttle Linkage Question

[BrewCityCobra]

So with engine parts on the fritz due to COVID supply chain problems, I'm attempting to install as much of the "peripherals" as possible as I wait for my engine to get delivered (which will understandably be delayed).

With that said, i'm trying to get a feel for location for installing the Forte throttle linkage setup. Vertically, it appears the proper location is just above the frame cross-member, shaving the inner fender washers a bit to get the assembly as low as possible.

I'm a bit lost on horizontal location without an engine for reference. Can anybody let me know how far from the driver footbox the bell-crank needs to be (dimension below)? For reference I will be running a 427W with a dart block and QuickFuel carb. I figure if I have that dimension there is enough adjustment in the system that I can get the system installed/drill the necessary holes and adjust as necessary with final assembly.

Thanks!

-Brew

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[egchewy79]

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I put my pedestals through the 2"frame for a sturdier feel. I know others have attached angled aluminum to prevent the flex from the firewall from occurring. You just need longer bolts if you go through the frame. Put your inner pedestal close to the center and your engine side arm will go somewhere in between. The lower placement of the rod also clears the top of the footbox which can also be an issue at times. I drilled the rod and used roll pins to secure it as the set screw can and will slip with enough force

[BrewCityCobra]

Excellent, I can certainly work with that.

[nucjd19]

I did the same as chewy and ordered longer bolts from McMaster and bolted the pedestals to the 2" frame as well. Super solid and excellent pedal feel.

[Daddy O]

Hey nucjd19, would you mind sharing the dims of where you placed your supports since I am ordering the same engine and would like to get my linkage in beforehand also?

Thanks!

[nucjd19]

Hey nucjd19, would you mind sharing the dims of where you placed your supports since I am ordering the same engine and would like to get my linkage in beforehand also?

Thanks!

Will do Daddy O. It will be tomorrow if you don't mind. I will PM you.

[Daddy O]

Awesome, whenever, no rush, totally appreciated!

[BrewCityCobra]

Will do Daddy O. It will be tomorrow if you don't mind. I will PM you.

nucjd19, would you mind sending me those dimensions as well? I did a bit of laying out in the garage last night and it would certainly be helpful to have some numbers to reference before I start drilling.

Thanks for the insight!

[CraigS]

Chewy's is an excellent install. I did mine just on top of the firewall square tube and that put the bell crank inside the footbox too close to the top aluminum so I had to trim it. BTW, in the top down pic see that all the bell cranks, as well as the top of the pedal and carb lever, are pointing up and at essentially the same angle is perfect. It also makes fabbing the shaft easier. Both bell cranks are parallel to each other. I ground a flat on the cross shaft for each bell crank set screw to fit against.

[egchewy79]

BTW, in my install, you will see that I put a clamp/limiter on either side of the pedestals on the shaft. Completely unnecessary. The kit comes with 2 clamps. Just put them either both on the inside or on the outside of the pedestals and there will be no chance of the shaft moving laterally either direction. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I got the extra clamps.

[BrewCityCobra]

BTW, in my install, you will see that I put a clamp/limiter on either side of the pedestals on the shaft. Completely unnecessary. The kit comes with 2 clamps. Just put them either both on the inside or on the outside of the pedestals and there will be no chance of the shaft moving laterally either direction. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I got the extra clamps.

If it's worth doing it's worth overdoing! I actually laughed reading this because I saw your photo and thought to myself, I really like the look of those extra two clamps, I should get some.

[Rdone585]

Brew, I was wondering if I could come over sometime and see the throttle linkage in person. I've contemplated retrofitting it to my car but hesitate because it's a finished car with body on and I don't like getting upside down in the driver footbox. So seeing how the parts attach would help me decide whether to pull the trigger or not.

[nucjd19]

Hey guys I will just post my pics with the numbers here for you. I am glad I went through the 2x2 frame with longer bolts cause it is solid but make sure you don't run into anything important attached on the other side :) you can see there is a ton of play in the system so you can adjust quite a bit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149567&d=1623884259
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149571&d=1623884500
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149563&d=1623884160
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149562&d=1623884160
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149561&d=1623884160

[Daddy O]

Thanks! What would you say the distance is from where the DS footbox intersects the firewall to the farthest support post centerline is?

[D Stand]

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Here is my measurements. Mine are just above the 2” with an angle behind. When I installed the two supports inside the engine bay per the instructions I noticed that the shaft from last support to the pedal side was flexing. I moved the support to inside foot box and added another angle to support it. I have zero flex and it works great. Hopefully you can see the measurement (7 5/8”) from the foot box sheet metal to the inside support center. Engine is Ford Racing Boss block 427W with air gap intake and Holley Sniper EFI. Side picture to show how it lines up but like others have said, there is a lot of adjustment with this. nucjd19 has his inner support running past the throttle linkage. I would do that compared to mine if you do not have your engine yet.

Dale

[nucjd19]

Thanks! What would you say the distance is from where the DS footbox intersects the firewall to the farthest support post centerline is?

It is 2 ½ inches

[egchewy79]

It is 2 ½ inches

I think he's asking the distance from the inner DS footbox wall to the inner most pedestal support. In nucjd19's pic, it's around 9.5in. it's not really critcal where that center post goes. Just don't go too far where the length of the rod is too short. As you can see in the pics, the lever arm can be positioned anywhere along that rod, and is usually a few inches away from the central post. In my pics, you can see the grommets for the wiring harness coming out of the firewall above my central post. Those holes for the wires are the recommended spots based on the manual. You can likely figure out the distances based on that. I did have to move my inertia switch from the recommended position to get my outer pedestal support bolted through the 2" frame.

[Fman]

One item to double check on Forte throttle linkage is make sure you have clearance when you put the cover on for the footbox. I had to grind a little off the bracket to not make contact with the footbox when applying throttle, last thing you want is that bracket to get stuck or jammed up.

[Daddy O]

Great info guys, thanks a bunch, this forum rocks!

[Daddy O]

My main concern is interference with the electrical lines. I deviated from the manual just a bit. I did just two holes but centered them instead of offset like the manual directs. Will do some measuring when home.

[v1-vr]

I used the 1.5 inch foward dash and just attached the post to it. Its 090 alum. little thicker than FF and it very stable. I think the bushing through the foot box helps quite a lot. I like FMAN had to grind the inside lever some to clear the to of the footboy. Also I tried roll pins and decided that set screws would be easier to remove for me down the road if I have to remove. The inside lever was slipping quite a lot so I threaded into the rod. Engine side just the lever I threadedfor the set screw.

http://i.imgur.com/RV9KMWol.jpg (https://imgur.com/RV9KMWo)

http://i.imgur.com/Hkw53F5l.jpg (https://imgur.com/Hkw53F5)

[Cutter 54]

In the foot box how do you guys position or mount the gas pedal to have proper clearance for the Forte rod as it runs back from the top of the pedal arm to link with the bell crank arm near the firewall? My Mk4 gas pedal arm is angled inward
(toward the brake pedal) as it extends upward so the top of the pedal arm is located just left of (closer to the brake pedal) the horizontal 3/4” pedal box frame bar. The posted photos show the pedal arm and rod linkage lying BETWEEN the 3/4” rail and the inside footbox wall. So to clear the pedal bracket, do you bend the gas pedal arm(s) or redrill and angle the pedal mount plate? The latter would tilt the pas pedal off of plumb. Please comment.

[Fman]

In the foot box how do you guys position or mount the gas pedal to have proper clearance for the Forte rod as it runs back from the top of the pedal arm to link with the bell crank arm near the firewall? My Mk4 gas pedal arm is angled inward
(toward the brake pedal) as it extends upward so the top of the pedal arm is located just left of (closer to the brake pedal) the horizontal 3/4” pedal box frame bar. The posted photos show the pedal arm and rod linkage lying BETWEEN the 3/4” rail and the inside footbox wall. So to clear the pedal bracket, do you bend the gas pedal arm(s) or redrill and angle the pedal mount plate? The latter would tilt the pas pedal off of plumb. Please comment.

The russ thomspon adjustable gas pedal works really good with Forte linkage, it allows the pedal to slide up and down the mounting bar. It can also be adjusted side to side by bending the throw arm.

http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/mk3/mk3ftp.html

[Cutter 54]

That helps. Thanks for reply.
Anyone else have a diy solution?

[D Stand]

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Here are some photos of the FFR pedal mounted and the attachment of the mechanical linkage. I did drill out the end of the pedal arm to bolt the linkage to it.

Dale

[Cutter 54]

Thanks Dale. I see the gas pedal is canted slightly due to the rotation of the pedal bracket. I fabricated a spacer to mount at the top of the pedal arm to achieve the same thing, only without altering the orientation of the pedal. i.e. the pedal "pad" is vertical, the pedal arm is canted inward about an inch and I kept the pedal mounted to the factory holes. Same result, more work on my part. Thanks.