Rear Axle Paint

[CaptB]

If the search feature on the forum didn't suck ***, I probably would find a lot of posts around this item but is the consensus for the rear axle paint POR 15 or is there a better alternative?

[Blitzboy54]

For me it's

-Powder coat

-POR 15

-Paint

In that order

[chmhasy]

If the search feature on the forum didn't suck ***, I probably would find a lot of posts around this item but is the consensus for the rear axle paint POR 15 or is there a better alternative?

https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Google-to-Search-Within-a-Specific-Website

[usafajk610]

Decided to check this thread because I had seen POR 15 thrown around on here, not knowing what it was, I expected to find an answer here. But the google search of "site:whateverwebsite.com search item" is also some welcome knowledge

[J R Jones]

The heat phase of powder coating is tough for larger, heavier parts. Dimensions and mass make it hard to heat evenly.
POR primer cures hard, glossy and durable. Flow minimizes brush marks but leads to dripping and separation from sharp edges.
Primer is not UV resistant so it may fade in sunlight. I find POR spray top coat is not chemical resistant, primer is.
The primer will bond the cap on the can for subsequent use. Dipping out of the can sets the can-cure off. It cures through humidity. I never get through a can without in can cure. Buy small cans.
jim

[toadster]

POR15 is the best IMHO

my horrible video showing the etch step

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9av3P7s1Yuc

[narly1]

I never get through a can without in can cure. Buy small cans.
jim

Jim, there is a simple solution. Leave the lid on the can alone. Poke two holes into it, one for pouring the paint out of and one for a vent. When you're done using the paint seal the holes off with a couple of sheet metal screws. The ones meant for steel roofing with rubber gaskets under the heads are ideal.

Earl

[TriPower]

I used foam brush, NO brush marks and it looked sprayed on. 52000 miles looks like new.

Lee R.

[J R Jones]

Earl, Thanks, I will try that. I did try transfering to a screw top plastic jar, not much better. I tried a glass jar with rubber gasketed lid, no better.

TriPower I recently used POR engine paint on a 327 SBC. I tried the recommended foam brush but it left small bubbles in the paint, I went back to bristle brush. It was good on the castings but I went to spray for the stamped parts.

Toadster, Careful with phosphoric acid and Metal Prep. The acid will eat cast iron if left soaking or wet too long. Needs a good rinse.

jim
BTW the 1968 Corvette 300hp is for sale. 13K miles and fresh heads.

148563148564

[Rdone585]

Here is another vote for POR15. That's what I did with mine and I'm more than satisfied after 19 years. My only advice is to make sure you have finished welding and drilling (whatever part you are working one) before you paint it. I have to grind the POR15 just to get a drill bit started.

[thebicman]

Have used the por paint for so many items. What I do to make it last is put it in glass jars but use waxed paper between the glass and sealing ring. Over 3 yrs old and still just like new.

[Al_C]

Here's a contrarian view. I used Rustoleum engine paint on my IRS center section. Cleaned it, primed it (also with Rustoleum) and painted it. So far, so good (it was painted 5 years ago). Other than that, I powder coat whatever will fit in the oven.

[narly1]

I recently picked up a late model center section and the cast iron portion was already painted black from the factory.

What are everybody's thoughts on laying a second coat over top of that? And what to use? POR 15? Tremclad/Rustoleum?

[J R Jones]

I recently started using KBS Clear Diamond Finish on bare aluminum chassis parts. It goes on just like POR and seems to have similar durability.
I did my Corvette third member, looks great.
jim