Turbo's MK4 build adventure

[msbrown6]

After a few weeks of negotiating/haggling/bargaining, my sweet wifey has finally capitulated on this build. Needless to say, I ordered it just a few minutes later before she could change her mind. It will be here in early November - thanks Stewart Transportation. I hope its not too early to start my build thread - there's some prep work that I need to do to be ready.

My home shop is nicely set up and will be a fun place for this latest project. My shop is a 36' x 60' Brohalla with a 12' x 7' projection screen for build videos, music and Netflix binging to keep me entertained during the project. Also, a homemade bar to host the wrenching helpers! As a fun aside, I entered my shop in last year's "Coolest Garage of the Year" with Racedeck.com (PS - GREAT flooring!) - and it beat out a few hundred other entries for the grand prize. Pretty fun contest - see https://racedeck.com/category/garage-of-the-year/.

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My first project after ordering was to build a rolling body buck and frame cradle - done with just some scrap lumber and a very easy project to finish in a day. Used the buck plans in the downloaded MK4 manual - and modified is just a little. The rolling frame cradle was modified from plans published by chrisarella - see https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28226-Chris-s-Chassis-Dolly-Build-Plans - thanks Chris!

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Next, I'm adding/replacing a few tools that will be helpful for this build - good electrical crimper, a good ATV/motorcycle hydraulic lift to replace my POS transmission jack, M3 fine line tape, a big pack of 1/8" drill bits, an air driven rivet gun and supplies, punch set, new brake bleeder set, bubble flare and double flaring kit, flare nut wrench set, cleco set and a few other odds and ends.

I'm planning on doing the body work and paint myself - I'll need to learn some additional skills along the way.

This will be a great adventure. To all reading this - thanks in advance for support and help along the way. William Yeats once said: "There are no strangers here; Only friends you haven't yet met".

[Chris Wingardh]

THATS a man cave if I ever saw one!!

[egchewy79]

If I had that garage, my wife would be filing a missing person's report...

[460.465USMC]

Dude! That's the sweetest garage/man cave I've ever seen. Amazing! Well done.

You've started a good trend that comes in really handy: buying more tools. I thought I was set up pretty good until after I started my build and realized I wasn't. It's a real sacrifice to have to buy a tool here and there, but you'll get through it. :p

Great strategy on clicking the order button while the gettin' was good!

What part of Idaho are you in?

[msbrown6]

Thanks Chris. It sure is a fun place to hang out and waste time. Some fun projects like this MK4 too! I'm just outside of Boise in Idaho.
Dude! That's the sweetest garage/man cave I've ever seen. Amazing! Well done.

You've started a good trend that comes in really handy: buying more tools. I thought I was set up pretty good until after I started my build and realized I wasn't. It's a real sacrifice to have to buy a tool here and there, but you'll get through it. :p

Great strategy on clicking the order button while the gettin' was good!

What part of Idaho are you in?

[460.465USMC]

Ah. I was hoping maybe you were in the Coeur d' Alene area, so I could come up with some sort of lame excuse to see your shop.

Now comes the hard part: waiting for your kit to arrive. At least you have a great place to get lost killing time.

[JB in NOVA]

That is seriously the best man cave I've ever seen! And here I was just happy to have a beer fridge within arm's reach. I need to up my game!

[TMartinLVNV]

Wow, that is an amazing setup. Beautiful work. You are going to have plenty of room in there to spread out for your build. I did mine in a two car garage bay and had just enough room.

My garage is my happy space. I wish I had a taller ceiling for a lift but make do with Quickjacks. I'm now out of space for more toys. Your garage looks like a paradise :)

[msbrown6]

Changing a few things with my Factory Five order. Decided to bite the bullet and go with the 427. Should be fun.

Bigger question though is wheels and tires. This may be unpopular, but I really don't like the look of the Hallibrand wheels. I'm hoping to get wheels and tires from a local dealer here. I've searched the forums and the manual - and can't really find specs for the rims and tires that I'll need to give my local tire shop. I'd like to stick with 15" or 17" tires. I will be getting the 2015 IRS rear end - and Wilwood brakes. What information do I need to tell my wheel/tire shop when ordering wheels and tires for my car? The manual has great information for pre-2004 rear ends (page 507), but little information on 2015 IRS rear ends and wheel choice.

Anyone able to help me with specs for both the tires and wheels? Thanks!

[edwardb]

Changing a few things with my Factory Five order. Decided to bite the bullet and go with the 427. Should be fun.

Bigger question though is wheels and tires. This may be unpopular, but I really don't like the look of the Hallibrand wheels. I'm hoping to get wheels and tires from a local dealer here. I've searched the forums and the manual - and can't really find specs for the rims and tires that I'll need to give my local tire shop. I'd like to stick with 15" or 17" tires. I will be getting the 2015 IRS rear end - and Wilwood brakes. What information do I need to tell my wheel/tire shop when ordering wheels and tires for my car? The manual has great information for pre-2004 rear ends (page 507), but little information on 2015 IRS rear ends and wheel choice.

Anyone able to help me with specs for both the tires and wheels? Thanks!

The Factory Five parts catalog (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/) gives dimensions of their wheels including backspace. That's where I'd start for reference. The 2015+ IRS setup works fine with those dimensions. No matter what ratio you choose, the track width is the same for all. The Wilwood upgrade brakes fit the Factory Five 17 and 18 inch wheels. You'd need to check any aftermarket wheels, but not sure quite how you'd do that. 15's are a non-starter for that package. Although I've heard Factory Five now has a 15" option for Wilwoods.

[msbrown6]

The Factory Five parts catalog (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/) gives dimensions of their wheels including backspace. That's where I'd start for reference. The 2015+ IRS setup works fine with those dimensions. No matter what ratio you choose, the track width is the same for all. The Wilwood upgrade brakes fit the Factory Five 17 and 18 inch wheels. You'd need to check any aftermarket wheels, but not sure quite how you'd do that. 15's are a non-starter for that package. Although I've heard Factory Five now has a 15" option for Wilwoods.

Thanks edwardb - That is exactly what I was looking for!

Front Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18"x 9"
Rear Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18"x 11"
Front Wheel Backspace: 6.00" (24mm Offset)
Rear Wheel Backspace: 6.46" (12mm Offset)
Wheel Lug Pattern: Ford style 5 lug x 4.5" bolt circle
Color: Black
Front: 255/35 ZR18
Rear: 315/30 ZR18

[460.465USMC]

Hi Matt,

Here's some great info. I got on a similar question/thread from GoDadGo:

Any wheel that fits a 1999-2004 Mustang will work well on your MK-4 Roadster.

AMERICAN MUSCLE:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/99-04...eels-rims.html

LATE MODEL RESTORATION:
https://lmr.com/products/94-04-Mustang-Wheels

OE WHEELS LLC:
https://www.oewheelsllc.com/make/For...tang/year/2004

I'm running discontinued wheels from OE Wheels LLC with 245/45-17's on 17X9 Fronts with 285/40-17's on 17X10 Rears.
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

I also do not prefer the Halibrands, so ordered a set of black wheels from American Muscle. However, after waiting around 8 weeks on back order, I cancelled and ordered almost identical 2003-2004 Cobra style wheels (and tires) from 17" from Late Model Restoration:

https://lmr.com/item/WTK-1007LBDG/mustang-03-cobra-style-wheel-tire-kit-black-g2-94-04

Wheel Specs
Size: 17x9
Offset: +26mm
Backspacing: 6.02"
Weight: 23lbs
Lug Pattern: 5x114.3

Size: 17x10.5
Offset: +20mm
Backspacing: 6.53"
Weight: 24.9lbs
Lug Pattern: 5x114.3

[msbrown6]

Stewart Transportation emailed that they are picking up my MK4 next Monday - and it should arrive here in Idaho around November 8th. Pretty excited about getting started. This is my first big build - so its nice to have the support of all of you here on the forum. Thanks in advance for subscribing to this thread and helping me along the way. Looking forward to a fun adventure over the next several months! November 8th can't come soon enough!

[msbrown6]

It was an exciting morning when the Stewart truck showed up. Lots of boxes and equipment to sort through. I've spent a couple of days doing inventory - and will reinventory some of the bags that seem to be missing a few things.

I've had a few difficulties with items that aren't really labeled well - or are given names that aren't familiar to me - or to Google when I search for what the item is. In addition, unfortunately, FF doesn't have a detailed parts catalog or any reference material with pictures which makes the detailed inventory more difficult. The manual can be helpful as it occasionally will picture the item - or there is an engineering drawing with part names, numbers and uses. However, when none of the above are available, some of the inventory can be confusing and difficult. Regarding the missing items, supply chain issues means that there are lots of items missing from my order - pretty unavoidable these days. I'm confident that FF will get all of the missing things to me eventually. However, having a better resource to assist with the inventory would be helpful.

I'm pretty excited about the weeks to come. Will start the process of aluminum drilling and riveting after getting the body removed from the chassis shortly. The fun adventure begins!
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[John Ibele]

It was an exciting morning when the Stewart truck showed up. Lots of boxes and equipment to sort through. I've spent a couple of days doing inventory - and will reinventory some of the bags that seem to be missing a few things.

I've had a few difficulties with items that aren't really labeled well - or are given names that aren't familiar to me - or to Google when I search for what the item is. In addition, unfortunately, FF doesn't have a detailed parts catalog or any reference material with pictures which makes the detailed inventory more difficult. The manual can be helpful as it occasionally will picture the item - or there is an engineering drawing with part names, numbers and uses. However, when none of the above are available, some of the inventory can be confusing and difficult. Regarding the missing items, supply chain issues means that there are lots of items missing from my order - pretty unavoidable these days. I'm confident that FF will get all of the missing things to me eventually. However, having a better resource to assist with the inventory would be helpful.

I'm pretty excited about the weeks to come. Will start the process of aluminum drilling and riveting after getting the body removed from the chassis shortly. The fun adventure begins!
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Congrats on the arrival ... that's a fun day!! And man, what a shop.

You're probably on top of organization, but I'll share what I wish I would have done after taking inventory down to every individual nut and bolt. Make two copies of the inventory sheets. Take one copy and put each page in a sleeve and tape it to the appropriate box, so I could walk up to each box and see in detail what was in each one without opening it. Use the second to mark up status (POL, removed, on car, etc). Put the original in my 3 ring binder as an 'as received' record.

And most important, take a shot of each page and keep it in an album on my phone (which is the most frequently viewed version now) so it's always with me. Good luck and have fun!!

[msbrown6]

Great recommendations - I'll be sure to do all of that. Thanks John!

[msbrown6]

So, I'm finally getting started and am running into an issue with the front control arms. The nuts on the right and left ends of the mounting bar (attached to the frame) seem like they thread just fine to start - but when the nut is almost completely on, it dead stops as if the nut is not the right size. With strength, I can thread the nuts on. Its like these are locking nuts of a type I've not run into before. Is this resistance pretty normal for these nuts? Thanks all!160771160772

[NYMike]

So, I'm finally getting started and am running into an issue with the front control arms. The nuts on the right and left ends of the mounting bar (attached to the frame) seem like they thread just fine to start - but when the nut is almost completely on, it dead stops as if the nut is not the right size. With strength, I can thread the nuts on. Its like these are locking nuts of a type I've not run into before. Is this resistance pretty normal for these nuts? Thanks all!160771160772

Hey Matt. Congrats on getting going with the build. Those are distorted thread lock nuts and that resistance is normal. They are not particularly easy to get on and require quite a bit of effort to tighten. I remember ours being very difficult as well.

[msbrown6]

Thanks Mike. Makes sense. Never heard of distorted thread nuts. I guess we learn something new every day. More to learn with this project... ��

[msbrown6]

I'm trying to get the tie rods onto the spindles - but there is a metal collar on the tie rod - and it doesn't fit into the spindle. I've read posts about this and most people say it is a perfect fit. I'm puzzled. Should I drill on the spindle to fit the tie rod end? I'm a little hesitant to do that. Any ideas fellas? Thanks!167628167629

[edwardb]

No, do not drill anything! The tie rod ends go in from the bottom. Not the top. Assuming you have the steering arms installed properly, the large taper should be on the bottom and they should go right in. Check the pictures and instructions in the build manual. Pretty thoroughly explained and pictured.

[msbrown6]

Oh my word. I'm considering deleting my post just because I'm embarrassed I'm so dumb. But, I'll leave it here for posterity. Thanks edwardb!

[460.465USMC]

Matt, there are countless examples of basic questions asked here on the forum. Many of them by the knuckle-dragger writing this. You don't know until you know. Now, if you would have drilled first, asked question second? We may have let that one stand as dumb. :p

[Rickysnickers]

I live in unincorporated Eagle. I'll be looking for your car on the road :)

[JB in NOVA]

Oh my word. I'm considering deleting my post just because I'm embarrassed I'm so dumb. But, I'll leave it here for posterity. Thanks edwardb!

If it's any comfort, you aren't the first to make this mistake (see my post #43 here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35795-JB-in-NOVA-s-MK4-build-Fried-spark-plug-wire/page2)

Wisdom comes from experience.
Experience comes from making mistakes.

[edwardb]

X3 on don't apologize for making mistakes! The only difference between you and me is I usually don't post them. :rolleyes: But your experience makes an important point that I like to frequently remind builders about. Especially new builders. If something doesn't seem right and the only option appears to be to start cutting or drilling or getting out the big hammers, STOP. Review the instructions some more and if necessary, ask questions. While not perfect, these kits are pretty well sorted out. I would say especially the Roadster but others are similar. Frequently you'll find it's builder error or misunderstanding, at least in my experience, versus something that requires more drastic action. That should be the last resort. Not the first. Now carry on and enjoy the build.

[msbrown6]

Working on the steering shaft - and the 1" DD tube that runs between the u-joint at the footbox flange and the u-joint that attaches to the steering rack seems to be just a little too long. Does this need to be trimmed down so the steering can fully rotate? I haven't drilled it yet but think I may need to take a little length off so the ends don't stick into the u-joints and interfere with rotation. Will wait to hear from someone here to tell me if I'm doing something wrong of course. Thanks fellas!168528168527168529168526

[flyboyjy]

i.e. 427 has a video on youtube from a week or so ago on the steering shaft. He said to not cut it and it does fit with out modification.

[Chopper]

This is a little bit different than the steering shaft in my (2014 delivered) MKIV. Is that yoke as far down as it will go on the steering rack shaft? If it will slip on that spline a bit further I think may take up the slack.

[msbrown6]

i.e. 427 has a video on youtube from a week or so ago on the steering shaft. He said to not cut it and it does fit with out modification.

Thanks - but I can't find that video. Is 427 a username? Do you have a link to the video?

[flyboyjy]

https://youtu.be/uzJYW1m8O8k It’s about six minutes in.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Matt. I agree with flyboyjy: you shouldn't need to trim the steering shaft. Some builders will mount this on the inside of the FB to give a little more play; others say that's not necessary. I mounted mine on the inside, and it looks like this. The red arrow was me pointing out that I had to remove a little material for the Wilwood pedal mount bracket to fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140122&d=1609461894

[msbrown6]

Working on fitting the gas tank today - and there are a couple of frame elements that meet the edge of the tank and prevent the tank from moving higher - that are pretty snug on the passenger side of the gas tank at the front and back - see pics. If I raise the tank to the level I think it needs to be it scrapes on the frame elements and will end up denting in the gas tank a little I suspect. Is it supposed to be this snug? Also, there's no way 1" bolts will hold the tank straps unless I skip the plastic cover. Lots of options I'm sure - wondering what you all do with your tanks. Thanks all!

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[Namrups]

Flatten out the raised edges of the tank to get a better fit. I am also putting 1/8" x 1" foam strip between tank and frame to help eliminate any possible clatter due to vibration.

[edwardb]

X2 on flattening out those flanges. The plastic bumpers on the end of the frame pieces should lay flat on the flange. It's in the manual, but you're not the first one to miss it. "Fuel tank install. At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat." It's also not usual to have to spread the frame pieces a bit to clear the tank. They're not hard to move with a couple of bumps with a dead blow hammer. You're also not the first to find the mounting bolts a bit short. Especially on the RH side. Once the threads are engaged and you tighten it, the original ones would have been long enough. But not easy to get them started unless slightly longer.

[msbrown6]

I'm curious about the caliper inlet connector for the flexible brake line on the Wilwood front brakes. The inlet connector supplied by Wilwood doesn't fit (it's too large) for the caliper (I have it stuck in in the photo - but it will not thread). Wilwood's install manual says the inlet size is a 1/8-27 NPT. Am I using the wrong inlet connector? I checked the size on the rear brakes - and it doesn't fit there either...171963171964

[460.465USMC]

I remember putting together my Wilwoods those angled NPT connectors are a precision fit. If I was threading them in from even the slightest angle, they wouldn't start. Because they're tapered, they don't thread in very far (maybe two turns?) before you start getting some resistance. As another point of reference, if you have the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, it also has this same 1/8-27 NPT thread for the pressure gauge.

[msbrown6]

Thanks 460 - it turns only about 1/10 of a turn and stops - the smaller caliber end of the angled connector (the one that attached to the flexible hose) fits pretty good but seems a little loose in the caliper and probably best goes on the flexible hose. I'm kinda stuck. I'll give Wilwood a call maybe this week too... Thanks for your help!

[edwardb]

There should have been a sticker over the opening on the calipers that confirmed the threads were 1/8-27 NPT. In addition to what the Wilwood instructions say. The angled adapters you received should have been in the flexline kit. Assuming they provided the correct ones (very likely) they're 1/8-27 NPT on the caliper side and -3AN on flexline side. The -3AN should thread easily onto the flexline. It's a tapered fitting and seals when properly tightened. Do not put that end into the caliper. As for the 1/8-27 NPT side, agree completely with the response you already received -- they need to be exactly aligned for the thread to start. NPT's are tapered and seal on the threads. So (1) you need to put thread sealant on the threads before turning them in (which may help them turn more easily at first) and (2) because they're tapered, they will start tightening and seal after maybe only 2-3 turns. Even from the beginning (assumed aligned properly!!) you may need to light wrench them before they really tighten down. This is all totally normal. Obviously, take it carefully and if you're not comfortable, stop. You really don't want to mess up that caliper. But I'm betting Wilwood will tell you something similar to what's already been posted.

[msbrown6]

I'm looking for suggestions for fuel pumps for my MK4 - with 427 EFI build. Thanks all!

[egchewy79]

Welcome back. I have a walbro in tank pump. You’ll likely need a high volume pump with the bigger motor. Ask Mike Forte who can set you up with everything you need from the pump to hanger to flex lines and fittings

[msbrown6]

Trying to get the engine moved to the car today - but when trying to slide the driveshaft on, it only advances a few centimeters - but then hits a hard stop. Tried nudging it with the "persuader" but no luck. I don't see any obstructions. What gives? Any ideas? Thanks all!

[Railroad]

The manufacturers sometimes put a rubber donut on the output shaft. This puts it inside the housing past the tail shaft seal.
Slide a small screwdriver up the one of the spline grooves and see if it bottoms out. If so, you probably have the donut on the shaft.
It requires you pulling it out, without damaging the seal. It helps if the output shaft has some light oil on it.
If you can cut the donut it helps.
Small needle nose pliers are one of the tools I used.
Use your imagination on what will hook or hold the rubber as you pull it out.
If you do not have the donut on the shaft, put some gear lube on the spline and/or inside the yoke spline.
They do not like to mate dry.
At worst your spline could be wrong. Not something you hear often.
good luck,

[msbrown6]

The manufacturers sometimes put a rubber donut on the output shaft. This puts it inside the housing past the tail shaft seal.
Slide a small screwdriver up the one of the spline grooves and see if it bottoms out. If so, you probably have the donut on the shaft.
It requires you pulling it out, without damaging the seal. It helps if the output shaft has some light oil on it.
If you can cut the donut it helps.
Small needle nose pliers are one of the tools I used.
Use your imagination on what will hook or hold the rubber as you pull it out.
If you do not have the donut on the shaft, put some gear lube on the spline and/or inside the yoke spline.
They do not like to mate dry.
At worst your spline could be wrong. Not something you hear often.
good luck,

Thanks Railroad - but no rubber donut. Still can't get the driveshaft slid onto the shaft. I don't see any obstruction - but it won't advance more than about a couple of inches - seems to hit a hard stop. Everything else looks good. On the driveshaft, there is a space where a single spline is missing - wondering if this needs to line up with something? Grease didn't really change the situation. Thanks all for any help you can provide! Here are some pics too.

Transmission: TCET18084 FORD TKX 2.87 /.81 - new from Mike Forte
Driveshaft: Stock new from Factory 31 SPLINE 2015 IRS 8.375” drive shaft

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[msbrown6]

The output from the transmission doesn't fit the driveshaft - see pics. I'm sure this is a rookie question - but is there an adapter or other piece I'm missing? Thanks all!
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[edwardb]

The output from the transmission doesn't fit the driveshaft - see pics. I'm sure this is a rookie question - but is there an adapter or other piece I'm missing? Thanks all!
201811201812201813

Yes, an adapter is required. Should have come with your IRS parts. It bolts into the differential flange and then the driveshaft bolts onto the adapter.

[msbrown6]

Just curious if this fuel pump requires a special fitting for the inlet and return. The threads fit my male AN-6 other fittings but the female ends on the fuel pump seem really deeper than any of my AN-6 fittings. Is there a special AN-6 fitting that meeds to be used for this? Thanks fellas. 203714

[msbrown6]

Having a little trouble with the clevis on the parking brake. When installed, it sits too close to the coil spring/shock absorber assembly. Any ideas? Thanks all! 228449228450228451

[CDXXVII]

Just curious if this fuel pump requires a special fitting for the inlet and return. The threads fit my male AN-6 other fittings but the female ends on the fuel pump seem really deeper than any of my AN-6 fittings. Is there a special AN-6 fitting that meeds to be used for this? Thanks fellas. 203714

This is from the Holley Sniper fuel pump module - 6AN o-ring outlet and return port

Something like this - www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/ignition_and_fuel_systems/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/AT985006ERL?srsltid=AfmBOooIzGRJ4Bnld-boElApgiBSJrAip0Ucb3qNAKSJZ7Mg3WnvvYKuKd4

[edwardb]

Having a little trouble with the clevis on the parking brake. When installed, it sits too close to the coil spring/shock absorber assembly. Any ideas? Thanks all!

Switch to a rounded head screw, turn it around so the head is on the inside, make sure the attachment clevis is oriented away from the coilover. Your alignment could be affecting this too. If the camber is way off it could make it closer. The final result is close but it fits without interference. Picture here from my Mk5 build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216832&d=1753565025