Seam Repair | Questions | with Pictures and Videos

[Padawan]

All,
I got everything sanded down with 80 grit.

What process do I need to follow to repair the seams?

I’ve got the 3M Marine HSRF for the seams.

Do I need to grind out the seams when there are clear gaps?

Do I need to burr out the pin holes prior to filling with the 3M filler?

Video and Pictures:

https://www.mattmaresch.com/Private-...qJzj/Roadster/

I’m excited to repair the seams and then move onto rage gold :)

All advice is very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt

[edwardb]

I'm by far not the most experienced on this subject, but will respond in case others don't. No reason to get crazy grinding on the parting lines. I see guys posting pictures where they've carved into the body far more than needed. Yes, grind down the high points. Yes, clean out any leftover foreign material. Like clay used in the molds sometimes, etc. Ideally, should also get any gel coat out that's down in the parting lines. But the last couple bodies I've done that wasn't nearly the problem it used to be. Yes, open any voids enough to where they'll take filler. If you want, you can go back and fill with HSRF. But don't leave any on the surface of the gel coat and don't build it up any higher than the surrounding surfaces. It doesn't sand well (today's understatement) plus the Rage body filler will provide the finished surface.

Your provided link is showing "page not found" but I recall you posted about this before and did have pics. So relatively confident with this advice.

[GoDadGo]

I don't know if these videos will help or not, but what we did was at the advice given to us by Mr. Jeff Kleiner.

Parting Line Removal:
https://youtu.be/_3sLamdkIFg

Parting Line Smoothing:
https://youtu.be/meBYeI96_A8

Bodywork Begins:
https://youtu.be/6QXWP5H8mT0

Bodywork Continues & My Driver's Door Mod:
https://youtu.be/6UK6K2jcwTU

Bodywork Completed:
https://youtu.be/po1Bb2_XDDk

Reassembly Begins:
https://youtu.be/A0Jb1tjjtPU

Completed Car:
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

Good Luck, Happy Sanding & As Edwardb (Sir Paul) Said, "No reason to get crazy grinding on the parting lines."

[rich grsc]

You seem hellbent on using HSRF. So take one small spot that you think is the worst, 12-24" and apply it, then you'll know if it works or not.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Your photos and videos aren't viewable. As I told you in a reply a few weeks ago, and as edwardb and Paul have repeated here, HSRF is not USUALLY required on the Mk4 parting lines (they aren't seams) unless you have an anomaly. Since I can't see what you have I can not say with certainty whether you have any areas where it's necessary---but what I can say with certainty is that if you get carried away and have to sand a bunch of it down you won't be loving your life. If you can get some good photos posted in a format that we can view we might be able to offer more help.

Jeff

[Padawan]

Your photos and videos aren't viewable. As I told you in a reply a few weeks ago, and as edwardb and Paul have repeated here, HSRF is not USUALLY required on the Mk4 parting lines (they aren't seams) unless you have an anomaly. Since I can't see what you have I can not say with certainty whether you have any areas where it's necessary---but what I can say with certainty is that if you get carried away and have to sand a bunch of it down you won't be loving your life. If you can get some good photos posted in a format that we can view we might be able to offer more help.

Jeff

I’m sorry the about link, I’ve refreshed the link...


https://www.mattmaresch.com/Private-Domain/n-bWqJzj/Roadster

Because I don’t know, what needs HSRF and what doesn’t, is why I’m leaning to using the product... better safe than sorry...

I do have some deep gaps in the parting lines where two parting lines cross, spots where the partying lines intersect and make an X shape on the body - there are 6 of those spots and then down by the front wheels near the bottom there are some wide gaps in the parting lines

I really appreciate everyone’s help...

[rich grsc]

Seems you've made up your mind. Apply enough that you can really force it down it the gaps.:rolleyes:

[Jeff's First FFR]

I’m sorry the about link, I’ve refreshed the link...


https://www.mattmaresch.com/Private-Domain/n-bWqJzj/Roadster

Because I don’t know, what needs HSRF and what doesn’t, is why I’m leaning to using the product... better safe than sorry...

I do have some deep gaps in the parting lines where two parting lines cross, spots where the partying lines intersect and make an X shape on the body - there are 6 of those spots and then down by the front wheels near the bottom there are some wide gaps in the parting lines

I really appreciate everyone’s help...

Mine had many voids in the fiberglass. I hogged them out with a mini-die grinder and filled with HSRF. Then Rage Gold. Came out great.

148263

[Padawan]

All,
It’s like concrete... I don’t know what I’m doing so yes I probably didn’t need as much as I used.

The initial holes are filled and sanded down, that’s an understatement...it’s sanding concrete — while it was a beat down I do feel better because I had a couple of spots in the seams that crumbed away — and now I feel I’ve got a solid base.

Now onto the Rage Gold...

How much Rage Gold do you use along the seams?

Thanks,
Matt

[FF33rod]

Are you planning on doing all the body work yourself? If not, I wouldn't bother going any further. Rage Gold will be used in many places not just the mould parting line and will be done all at the same time.

Steve

[ggunter]

HSRF is a great product but the problem with using it and I think Jeff will attest to this is its a bit harder then the gelcoat and fiber glass so when you sand it, the softer material, (gelcoat ) will sand away first and you tend to be left with high spots from the HSRF then it becomes a visious circle. Unless it's a deep void I would just use RAGE. It sands so easy and you won't unndercut the surrounding gelcoat.

[Jeff Kleiner]

All,
It’s like concrete... I don’t know what I’m doing so yes I probably didn’t need as much as I used.

The initial holes are filled and sanded down, that’s an understatement...it’s sanding concrete — while it was a beat down I do feel better because I had a couple of spots in the seams that crumbed away — and now I feel I’ve got a solid base.

Now onto the Rage Gold...

How much Rage Gold do you use along the seams?

Thanks,
Matt

Here's a repeat of the reply I made to the same questions in your other thread. We tried to warn ya' about overdoing it on the HSRF :p Lesson learned, right? ;)

As for how much Rage Gold---it depends. If the body was laid up with good panel alignment it doesn't take as much to shape up the mold parting lines (again, they aren't seams) as ones that have some offset.

This is an example of one that was well aligned:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148967&d=1622730695

And here are a couple of bodies that had some misalignment:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148968&d=1622731143

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148969&d=1622731524

Clearly you can see that it required more "mud" to work in the shapes and compensate for the mold panel offsets in the second and third photos. Sometimes you get a good one, other times not.

If you're asking how much product it will take typically I'll use about 3/4 of a 3 Liter (0.8 gallon) container per car.

And no, you don't tape off before applying the filler. The idea is to fair it out and feather it to nothing; tape would leave an edge.

Hope that helps,
Jeff

[rich grsc]

Here's a repeat of the reply I made to the same questions in your other thread. We tried to warn ya' about overdoing it on the HSRF :p Lesson learned, right? ;)

As for how much Rage Gold---it depends. If the body was laid up with good panel alignment it doesn't take as much to shape up the mold parting lines (again, they aren't seams) as ones that have some offset.

Hope that helps,
Jeff
How many times? :rolleyes: