Custom throttle cables?

[efnfast]

I'm going to need a custom throttle cable - I can order one from a place like Lokar, but I've heard talk of people using bicycle brake cables from bike shops since they're stronger, thinner, and cheaper?

Is there a certain brand or certain something I'm looking for, or do I just goto any bike shop and, for example, ask for 9ft of brake cable?

[CDXXVII]

Have you thought about mechanical linkage?

This is not of my car but definetely the route I am taking.

http://www.mycobrabuild.com/ThrottleLinkage.htm

[Bob Cowan]

Not sure I would trust a bicycle cable. They're not made for the kind of use that a throttle cable will see. I would consider a motorcycle throttle cable.

I uses a braided Lokar cable. I bought one extra long, and then cut it down to fit my needs.

[AC Bill]

I don't know Bob, when you think about how much pressure is applied to brake a bike, unless you had a very heavy throttle return spring, you think they would be plenty strong.
I know the FFR supplied cable is not very skookum looking, certainly no more than a bicycle cable, ( bike cables are also know as a Bowden cables)..

Custom ordered, you could also get a Kongsberg cable.
http://www.controlsandcables.com/index.php/Kongsberg-Automotive/View-all-products.html


Some cable size's vs breaking strengths. Funny the first one says aircraft control cable, but has a disclaimer, "not to be used on aircraft"??
http://www.wwewirerope.com/aircraftcable/

http://64.201.227.3/sava/precision.pdf

[Jacob McCrea]

I'd respectfully say that I would not hesitate to use a good bicycle brake cable as a throttle cable. I say that because I trust my life to them on 50 mph downhills on my race bikes, among other reasons. A derailleur cable should also work, although I would not use it. It will be thinner (they are usually 1.2mm, I think) and weaker, and the housing, which is wound differently than a brake cable, can be tricky to cut without either distorting the steel "middle" housing or melting the plastic inner housing. Also, the "ball" ends are very small and less conducive than a brake cable end to attaching to a gas pedal. In short, brake cables are probably much easier to adapt to this use.

If you use a bike brake cable, be sure to buy good cable and housing from a bike shop, e.g., one made by Shimano, Campagnolo, Sram, or Gore. The cheap cable kits available at sporting goods and "big box" stores are very low quality. You can buy the housing in "bulk," but just make sure you get the cable that matches the housing because brake and derailleur cables are different diameters. If you don't have a true cable cutter, cutting them to length with a cutoff wheel works reasonably well because it avoids the problem of crimping the steel housing, but you have to do it quickly so you don't melt the plastic inner housing. Also, regardless of what kind or brand of cable you use, you need to put "cable ends" on the ends to cap the cable. As for adjusting, I'd ask a bike shop mechanic for some motorcycle-style barrel adjusters from old cable-operated mountain bike brake levers. I'd also check out how they attach at the brake calipers as it may give some ideas on how to attach one to the throttle body.

With all this said, I don't think you can get 9 feet of brake cable in one piece. Nine feet of housing should be no problem, but the longest brake cables, or derailleur cables, likely won't be that long.

A motorcycle throttle cable should work just fine as well, and should already have an adjusting mechanism built into it. If not, I think you could find a suitable "barrel" adjuster in the bottom of any motorcycle guy's tool box. I would think that a single cable from a two stroke MX bike would work well with a little fabrication. I hope this helps.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'd wonder about bike cable tolerating the SLC engine bay heat.

Jeff

[Jacob McCrea]

That's a good point, Jeff. I have no idea what SLC means, but I doubt that the bike cables are designed to withstand high heat. The plastic inner housing certainly would melt and lock the throttle open at a certain temperature. I am not sure what that terperature is, but I bet it exists somewhere in an engine bay, like where the cable exits the footbox on my coupe and passes near the headers! Thinking about this a little more, I'd say that the bike cable would require even more careful routing than a purpose-built cable.

[efnfast]

I'd wonder about bike cable tolerating the SLC engine bay heat.

Jeff

Mmmm, I hadn't thought about the heat issue. That might be a concern, heh.

[Bob Cowan]

I'm sure the bike cable is very strong, it would have to be. Total breaking strength is not the issue. A bicycle cable and a throttle cable have two very differant jobs to do. The brake cable gets used very little, and has a fairly short range of moting. The throttle cable is just the opposite - it has a much wider range of motion, and it is in constant movement.

Heat is the other issue, of course. How long will the sheathing last when exposed to engine heat? IDK.

When looking for alternative components, try to look for items that similar operational charectoristics, and designed for similar working environments.

[dallas_]

I'm going to need a custom throttle cable - I can order one from a place like Lokar, but I've heard talk of people using bicycle brake cables from bike shops since they're stronger, thinner, and cheaper?



I'm thinking the Lokar is probably the way to go on that. Since that's what they are designed for.

Good points brought up on the heat, range of motion and usage and if bike cables would hold up to that.

[efnfast]

When looking for alternative components, try to look for items that similar operational charectoristics, and designed for similar working environments.

But where's the fun in that ;)

[CraigS]

I use the Lokar black sleave cable. I also got some heat protector sleaving made for plug wires.Working fine for 4 yrs now.

[Bill_VA]

I have a Lokar SS throttle cable, actually I'm on my third one. This last time I routed it differently to move it further away from the headers and I've eliminated the problem of binding because it got too hot. Now the real issue is the amount of flex in the SS housing when depressing the pedal. I like the look of the SS housing, I like the fittings, I just don't care for the flex. If anyone has a viable solution with the same fittings, I'm all ears.