Prep for Lizard Skin

[JohnK]

Hey all,

I've been away from my build for a bit, but I'm finally ready to get back to it. When I left off, I was prepping the cockpit and trunk area to spray Lizard Skin heat and sound insulation. One of the issues I was running into was getting everything scuffed to my satisfaction. As is often the case, I may be overthinking this, so I wanted to get everyone's input.

I'm using a combination of 80 grit discs on a pneumatic RO sander, as well as sheets of 80 grit to get into tighter areas by hand. My challenge is that the RO sander with 80 grit discs pretty aggressively sands down rivet heads if I'm not careful, but no matter how tightly I try to get next to the rivets it still leaves a pretty large area of unscuffed powder coat around every rivet head. This is leaving a LOT of area around every single rivet that I'll need to go back and scuff by hand, in addition to all the edges/corners. Is this necessary? Here are a couple of photos of what I'm seeing.

Those of you have have sprayed Lizard Skin - how meticulous were you about scuffing right around rivet heads? Is this "good enough" or do I need to get right in there around every rivet head? I've tried using a wire brush on a drill, as well as hand wire brushes of different materials (stainless steel, brass) but they're nowhere near aggressive enough and just sort of burnish the area.

In hindsight, I'd definitely scuff all panels that are going to get Lizard Skin BEFORE riveting them in place to avoid this situation (hint, hint to anyone reading this down the road).

Any and all suggestions welcome!

Thanks,
John

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147787&d=1620866350

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147786&d=1620866341

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147785&d=1620866328

[FF33rod]

I used the Lizard Skin products as well, you're being far more meticulous than I was. Seems to stick to metal really well. What it doesn't stick to is Silicone sealant.

Steve

[JohnK]

Thanks Steve. Not sure if it's clear from these photos, but the panels are not bare metal. They're powder coated in a silver color. I called Lizard Skin and spoke to a very nice gentleman a while back who advised that I needed to scuff any powder coat with 100 grit or coarser for best adhesion. However, I know that Lizard Skin goes on pretty thick so as long as it has good "bite" in the larger flat areas, it might be OK not being perfectly adhered around rivets? (especially since it will all be covered by carpet eventually).

[P100DHG]

I think you’re doing the right thing. I powder coated my panels a matte satin silver, Lizard skin said no prep was necessary to me and I got good adhesion but on the panels I did prep I know it really grabbed well. I subjected both to a scratch test and though both were good the prepped panel is far better. But I’d say you’re ready to spray it as is. No further prep necessary.

Nice work!

[JohnK]

That's what I was hoping to hear! Thanks so much.

[narly1]

Maybe you could get in around by those rivets with a Dremel sized wire wheel or sanding discs?

[Straversi]

I hit mine with a light scotch bright pad and then cleaned it up with acetone. No problems. Light mist coat and then go back heavier. In areas you can’t reach wield with the gun, dab it on with a cheap sponge brush. Once the light dab coat sets up you can go back and brush it in heavy. You can also use the sponge brush to fill gaps and small holes with multiple coats after everything dries. Stuff is great.
-Steve.

[rich grsc]

I think you have WAY over thought this.

[JohnK]

I think you have WAY over thought this.

That's how I roll! ;)

Better to have overthought something, than to not quite have put enough thought into it.

[JohnK]

I hit mine with a light scotch bright pad and then cleaned it up with acetone. No problems. Light mist coat and then go back heavier. In areas you can’t reach wield with the gun, dab it on with a cheap sponge brush. Once the light dab coat sets up you can go back and brush it in heavy. You can also use the sponge brush to fill gaps and small holes with multiple coats after everything dries. Stuff is great.
-Steve.

The scotchbrite pad is the winning answer! No idea why I hadn't thought of this (so much for "overthinking" it). I went over all the rivets with a scotchbrite pad, and then came back and hit everything with the 80 grit sandpaper, and now I at least have some amount of scuffing on everything. Thanks Steve!

-John