Parking brake advice

[Tbev]

I'm trying to figure out the best way to run my parking brake lines and thought it best to ask advice before I start drilling holes. My build is an MK4 with a coyote and TKX. I've searched the forum and originally was planning on following Paul's (Edwardb) solution for going over the 4 inch tube instead of under in his 20 Anniversary build. Since I did not purchase my Wilwood brakes from FFR I did not have the parking brake cable with the kit (I'm not even sure it comes with the kit if you get the brakes from them but that's irrelevant).
When I looked to purchase the cable I found this Wilwood universal parking brake kit:
146849


When I looked at this kit I thought I could do away with the pulley in Paul's plan if I mount the bracket in either of the locations below:
146851146850

My concern is that I have not found any posts from anyone else using this method, will there be interference with the transmission or drive shaft with either option? I would have to tap two holes into the 4 inch tube for the one where its sitting flat and the one that is on the 1 inch tube would be connected with two carriage bolts to avoid interference with cockpit aluminum.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. And it's my first time attaching photo's to a post so I'm hoping they went through.
Thanks,
Tony

[PhilO]

I would think both of those places would be a problem. Having those bends in the cable will cause wear at the end of the sheaths which could cause binding and eventually fray the cable. I would recommend setting it up so the cables are pulled inline with the sheath, which could be done with a pulley

[Tbev]

I would think both of those places would be a problem. Having those bends in the cable will cause wear at the end of the sheaths which could cause binding and eventually fray the cable. I would recommend setting it up so the cables are pulled inline with the sheath, which could be done with a pulley

After reading this and reviewing several build threads for the hundredth time I'm now thinking that I have the wrong parking brake cables. Can anyone tell me what cables will work?

[CraigS]

Run them under the 4 inch tube. It may not be the 'best' but it works fine for 13 years on mine.

[toadster]

I have the cables and calipers in the classifieds https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?37997-NEW-MKIV-Wilwood-MC-4-parking-brake-calipers-amp-cables-make-an-offer!

[D Stand]

I am thinking if you choose to go over the 4” tube you need to add the pulleys to get the angle right towards the e-brake handle.

[FLPBFoot]

Looking at the photos you want to make sure your cables flow freely from the arm to the cable entry points while under tension. I used the pulleys and the original FFR cable holding brackets on the frame. Also used the arm extension mods below ( not my design but a combination of others work). This mod is somewhat involved but reduces pull force on the brake handle and lets the cable flow over the pulleys with not cable chafing or binding. I enjoyed doing this mod as it let me use my fab skills.

A mod of two e-brake mods
The mod described below is a combination of the e-brake mods by edwardb and carlewms. I started out planning to do just the mod by edwardb, to relocate the e-brake cables over the 4" transverse tube using pulleys. That mod was straightforward. However, the Lokar clevis hit the bottom of the e-brake bracket when the brake was engaged and, although that probably didn't have any practical effect on the integrity of the mechanism, the engineer in me didn't like it. So, I looked at the ratchet handle extension that carlewms did (his photo below):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81057&d=1518819739

I didn't want to construct the entire handle so I opted to make handle extensions using soft steel bar (1/8" x 1/2") from McMaster-Carr. The goal was to move the clevis attachment pint another 1.5 in. from the ratchet pivot.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81058&d=1518819868

The side view (below) shows the pieces attached. Note also the modification to the Lokar clevis: this is the same modification done by edwardb to widen the attachment area.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81059&d=1518820323

The photo looking down shows the attachment from another angle as well as the spacers I put in using the steel tubing. Note the angle of the extension bars achieved using a spacer at the ratchet handle attachment pivot point. I also needed to purchase a longer shoulder screw because of the added width due to the extension bars and washers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81061&d=1518820567

The view from the transmission tunnel shows the set up in place. Now the clevis assembly doesn't hit the bottom of the e-brake bracket. An additional advantage is that the angle of the cable relative to the pulley is slightly less than without the extensions somewhat mitigating the rotational force on the pulley bolt when the brake is set.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81060&d=1518820431

Here is a list of the parts used in the modification.

Lokar clevis: (Lok-S-8078)

Pulleys: McMaster-Carr (p/n: 3434T24)

A longer ‘shoulder screw’ for the pivot point: McMaster-Carr (p/n: 91259A622)

Steel tubing: 3/8” O.D., 1 ft. long; for spacer material (McMaster-Carr (p/n: 8910K393)

Steel stock: 1/8" Thick, 5/8" Wide, 1 ft. long; McMaster-Carr (p/n: 9922K15)

Various bolts, washers and nuts.

Steve

[Tbev]

Looking at the photos you want to make sure your cables flow freely from the arm to the cable entry points while under tension. I used the pulleys and the original FFR cable holding brackets on the frame. Also used the arm extension mods below ( not my design but a combination of others work). This mod is somewhat involved but reduces pull force on the brake handle and lets the cable flow over the pulleys with not cable chafing or binding. I enjoyed doing this mod as it let me use my fab skills.

A mod of two e-brake mods
The mod described below is a combination of the e-brake mods by edwardb and carlewms. I started out planning to do just the mod by edwardb, to relocate the e-brake cables over the 4" transverse tube using pulleys. That mod was straightforward. However, the Lokar clevis hit the bottom of the e-brake bracket when the brake was engaged and, although that probably didn't have any practical effect on the integrity of the mechanism, the engineer in me didn't like it. So, I looked at the ratchet handle extension that carlewms did (his photo below):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81057&d=1518819739

I didn't want to construct the entire handle so I opted to make handle extensions using soft steel bar (1/8" x 1/2") from McMaster-Carr. The goal was to move the clevis attachment pint another 1.5 in. from the ratchet pivot.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81058&d=1518819868

The side view (below) shows the pieces attached. Note also the modification to the Lokar clevis: this is the same modification done by edwardb to widen the attachment area.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81059&d=1518820323

The photo looking down shows the attachment from another angle as well as the spacers I put in using the steel tubing. Note the angle of the extension bars achieved using a spacer at the ratchet handle attachment pivot point. I also needed to purchase a longer shoulder screw because of the added width due to the extension bars and washers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81061&d=1518820567

The view from the transmission tunnel shows the set up in place. Now the clevis assembly doesn't hit the bottom of the e-brake bracket. An additional advantage is that the angle of the cable relative to the pulley is slightly less than without the extensions somewhat mitigating the rotational force on the pulley bolt when the brake is set.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81060&d=1518820431

Here is a list of the parts used in the modification.

Lokar clevis: (Lok-S-8078)

Pulleys: McMaster-Carr (p/n: 3434T24)

A longer ‘shoulder screw’ for the pivot point: McMaster-Carr (p/n: 91259A622)

Steel tubing: 3/8” O.D., 1 ft. long; for spacer material (McMaster-Carr (p/n: 8910K393)

Steel stock: 1/8" Thick, 5/8" Wide, 1 ft. long; McMaster-Carr (p/n: 9922K15)

Various bolts, washers and nuts.

Steve

Steve,
This is great information. I think I was getting hung up on the fact that the Wilwood cable looks different then the one supplied by FFR when you buy the brakes through them. I now believe the Wilwood one will work. I understand now and will use the mods you detailed above on my build.
Thanks so much for the help.
Tony

[GFX2043mtu]

I put mine on the 4” main tube but I had to make a wear pad to go on where the reward carriage bolt is in the parking brake mount as it turns a corner there. You will also need to shorten the adjuster bolt screw as it will be to long. I’ll post pics of my set up tomorrow.