Brake and Fuel Line: Preparing to install and looking for feedback

[txboiler]

I am preparing to run the fuel and brake lines. I have purchased the Eastwood tube flare and tube straightener tools and now I am stuck on weighing the the options for which material type to use nickel cooper or stainless tube; with or without gravel guards, etc. My plan is to use typical routes for the brake and fuel lines and I will layout the tube routes and make templates for the bends from the material provided by FFR. The car will be a cruiser.

[Robodent]

IMO. I would use the nicop for the brakes and Teflon braided for the fuel. Just my thoughts. Rob.

[CraigS]

NiCop all the way for both. SS looks pretty but you need a REALLY good tool to flare it. And even then, since it is so hard, you have to be careful to check for seeping at the fittings. On a not quite molecular level, if the metal will squish a little, it is much easier to get a good seal. Most auto parts stores have NiCop in pre-cut and flared lengths as well as in 20-25 ft rolls. I generally by the lengths for brake lines and the roll for a fuel line.

[FLPBFoot]

Again, same here....NiCop all the way!! Easy to bend, flares so easily and on all the flares I did I only had one that even tried to weep a little, tighten a bit more and all dry. Makes this so easy.

[CDXXVII]

Just my opinion. If you run NiCop lines then you certainly do not need the Eastwood tool. Super easy to bend and flair and just about any flair tool will do.


I ran stainless steel hard lines for everything and used ptfe stainless braided for final fuel line connections. Pretty much overkill but I love the look. BTW, I had no issues with leaks but you do need to be very careful when you prep the line before flairing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82790

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[nuhale]

Nicopp on my build. If you buy roll from amazon stick with stopshop product. My first roll I ordered was splitting when flaring.

I bought a 25' roll of stainless 3/16" line as well and will sell it for $20 +s/h

[Mike DiGiorgio]

copper is really nice to work with you can basically bend it by hand and make it look good.. just be make sure it only contacts rubber when mounted. as it is always the " softer" material so if it on a steel/aluminum mount the line itself with chafe though with vibrations.

[edwardb]

I've done SS hard lines for both fuel and brakes on multiple builds. Agree it's harder to work with than steel or NiCopp. But I also like the look and the durability. Not that other products won't last a long time either. Agree the right tools are needed. The Eastwood professional flaring tool is what I have and is the minimum I would recommend. The cheaper split die ones just aren't up to the task. Order a little extra material and practice. Too much pressure on the flare will split. But once you get the hang of it, work fine and I've never had a leaking issue. Also need decent benders. The little multiple size ones I didn't find work very well. Critical to get the right SS material. You have to use annealed SS specifically intended for this purpose. I get it from InLine Tube. BTW, I only flare the 3/16" brake lines. I use pressure fittings for the 3/8" fuel lines.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/.highres/IMG_3984_zpsfrujgv4u.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/844a0beb-1ecb-4083-86f3-88969cc43846/p/2ae81fc5-fbe8-47d3-b64f-77528bd3324f)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/.highres/IMG_3934_zpsbi789kcl.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/844a0beb-1ecb-4083-86f3-88969cc43846/p/d0c4d452-1d39-484d-ab5d-7ff74f07045c)

[cob427sc]

I like the nicop lines. Easy to work with and bend. If you plan the layout you can by pre-flared lines at the auto store and never have to flare any fittings. I typically run the 3/8 from the pump to just short of the firewall then switch to braided stainless in the engine compartment for looks.

[BrewCityCobra]

Ironically I'm actually in the process of running my gas and brake lines as we speak. I decided to go with the tempered stainless lines from inlinetube.com. Main reasons were 1) durability and 2) aesthetics. I didn't want to run gravel guards on the lines as they ran along the 4" tubes and I didn't feel comfortable running NiCopp unprotected under the car on the track (no scientific reason to back that up, just my gut feel).

You already have the Eastwood flare tool which is usually the barrier to entry for Stainless as people don't want to pay for it and a good tool is crucial for good flares in stainless - with that tool in hand I'd say the world is your oyster.

That said, I ran NiCopp on my 944 and the material is ridiculously easy to work with. Just decided against it for this particular build.

[BrewCityCobra]

Just my opinion. If you run NiCop lines then you certainly do not need the Eastwood tool. Super easy to bend and flair and just about any flair tool will do.


I ran stainless steel hard lines for everything and used ptfe stainless braided for final fuel line connections. Pretty much overkill but I love the look. BTW, I had no issues with leaks but you do need to be very careful when you prep the line before flairing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82790

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82792

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82794

Beautiful work on the lines.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you pickup those brackets? Really like the look.

[Avalanche325]

CDXXVII,
Show us some pictures after you clean it up a little!

That is some beautiful work.

My advice FWIW. NiCop, steel or stainless are all fine materials. I used steel under the car and stainless under the hood. I would buy straight lengths. Always use a bender or something firm to get a specific radius (socket, soup can etc), never bend by hand for aesthetics. With stainless, if you do get one that just won't quite seal there are aluminum soft seals that you can use. I it just a little AL cone that goes on the AN fitting.

I originally ran my front brake crossover in front of the main tube. It always bugged me in case I caught some road debris. I moved it to the engine side and did the V that many have done. I shielded mine. A fan belt letting go at high RPM is pretty much a weapon.

[skidd]

I can't offer any opinion on material type.. only on size. Don't make the mistake I made.. and install the provided fuel line (1/4" and 5/16").
While my car works perfectly.. using the 5/16 dead headed to a carb with a low pressure electric fuel pump.
I did also install the 1/4 return line in the event I might one day go Fuel Injected. Why not I figured.
Well.. that was a waste of time, since any of the FI options I would chose, are not designed with a 1/8 return line in mind. D'Oh!
If I do ever go FI... I'll have to replace 1 or.. perhaps both fuel lines.
CliffNotes: Future Proof your line sizes.

*edited.. fixed as per rich below.. duh.. imagine 1/8 line? *

[rich grsc]

FFR never shipped 1/8" line for fuel. It was 5/16" and 1/4"

[AC Bill]

I used standard armored steel lines, for both brake and fuel. I believe they are galvanized, or zinc coated. Easy to bend, or flair, lightweight, and reasonably priced.

The roadster is rarely exposed to any moisture, and always stored indoors, so they will never corrode in my lifetime.

[txboiler]

Nicopp on my build. If you buy roll from amazon stick with stopshop product. My first roll I ordered was splitting when flaring.

I bought a 25' roll of stainless 3/16" line as well and will sell it for $20 +s/h

Thanks for the advice. Based on what I am reading here I am going to with the nickel copper and not the stainless. I will put the tube straightener that I got from you to good use.

Thanks again

[txboiler]

Just my opinion. If you run NiCop lines then you certainly do not need the Eastwood tool. Super easy to bend and flair and just about any flair tool will do.


I ran stainless steel hard lines for everything and used ptfe stainless braided for final fuel line connections. Pretty much overkill but I love the look. BTW, I had no issues with leaks but you do need to be very careful when you prep the line before flairing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82790

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82792

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82794

Thanks for the great advice.....and yes I have some fabrication skills and tube clamp envy.

[CDXXVII]

I made all my own line clamps. I’m pretty sure there is a vendor that makes some nice billet clamps but I had time to kill due to budget so took the time to make them myself.


Beautiful work on the lines.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you pickup those brackets? Really like the look.

[cv2065]

I went 3/8" all the way around with Nicopp. I also used pre-cut flared lengths from Advanced Auto. Took a little more planning, but I knew each flare was not going to have an issue.