Driveline angle coyote t56

[Rsnake]

Hoping someone can help. I just installed the engine and t56 and figured I should check the driveline angles. The engine is at 0 degrees and the diff is angled down 2 degrees. I know they should be equal and opposite so I assume I need to lift the trans mount bracket which is attached under the chassis bracket as it wouldn't fit above the chassis mount, trans hit chassis at shift assembly. Should I just add some shims under the trans mount instead?
Not a lot of room to lift the trans much.
Thanks

[edwardb]

My Gen 3 Coupe with the Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Factory Five spacers in the Energy Suspension motor mounts, T-56, and trans mounting plate under the tabs on the frame has no additional spacers under the transmission. 2,200 miles now in its second season. All working fine. No driveline vibration of whatever. Two things: As you point out, the shifter is very close to the underside of the transmission tunnel cover. That with the mount plate on the bottom. Adding spacers will likely cause interference and only minimally change the angle before it does. The goal isn't necessarily 0 degrees. With IRS, recommended that engine is 1 - 2 degrees down from fixed diff. You're in that range and should be OK.

[Rsnake]

Thanks Paul! Your word is gospel and I appreciate it. I will give you credit in the driveline angle video on YouTube.:)

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul! Your word is gospel and I appreciate it. I will give you credit in the driveline angle video on YouTube.:)

Well I don't know about that... :rolleyes: but with the exact setup and miles can confirm it works. Plus no other easy options.

[Bob Cowan]

When measuring and adjusting pinion angles, it's important to remember that you're comparing the driveline angle to the pinion angle. NOT to the horizon. A good place to measure the driveline angle is the front of the crankshaft pulley or vibration damper. That angle should be exactly the same as the pinion angle; also measured at the front of the differential.

The angle at the front of the crankshaft should be the same as the angle at the front of the pinion. .

With a live axle, your goal is 1-2* down at the pinion, because you know that under acceleration the pinion will rotate up and be pretty close to 0*. With an IRS, it's solidly bolted to the frame, and will not move. You should make the pinion angle and the driveline angle exactly the same.

Most factory drivelines have a 3-5* down angle towards the rear. Yours is at 0*, and that's fine, as long as you can get the pinion angle the same. If you put shims under the transmission, you'll make it worse.

You want to place shims under the front mounts of the pinion, trying to get that to 0* also.

[edwardb]

When measuring and adjusting pinion angles, it's important to remember that you're comparing the driveline angle to the pinion angle. NOT to the horizon. A good place to measure the driveline angle is the front of the crankshaft pulley or vibration damper. That angle should be exactly the same as the pinion angle; also measured at the front of the differential.

The angle at the front of the crankshaft should be the same as the angle at the front of the pinion. .

With a live axle, your goal is 1-2* down at the pinion, because you know that under acceleration the pinion will rotate up and be pretty close to 0*. With an IRS, it's solidly bolted to the frame, and will not move. You should make the pinion angle and the driveline angle exactly the same.

Most factory drivelines have a 3-5* down angle towards the rear. Yours is at 0*, and that's fine, as long as you can get the pinion angle the same. If you put shims under the transmission, you'll make it worse.

You want to place shims under the front mounts of the pinion, trying to get that to 0* also.

All good points and nothing to disagree with. In a perfect world the IRS setup would be at 0*. But for this setup and combination of parts (listed in my post #2) nothing is going to move without getting out the cutting torch and welder and modifying things. The 2015+ IRS pumpkin for example is hard mounted to the chassis with horizontal bushings on all four corners. Shimming isn't possible. End of the day this setup does fall into a range that's acceptable and works OK.