Oil Pressure Help

[BB767]

Question for engine people.
Since first start my oil pressure has been rock solid between 50 and 55 psi. I now have almost 5000 miles. On my last drive it dropped down to around 25 then back up to normal. This happened over 2 to 3 seconds. It repeated this four or five times during a 2 hour drive. It did not seem to be associated with any certain rpm or throttle position.
The question is where to start looking for problems, gauge, wiring, sender, or pump? Thanks.

[BluePrintEngines]

Hello BB767,

I am sorry to hear you are experiencing an issue with our product. Can you contact us at 800-483-4263 ext. 017 and have your serial number handy? I would like to do some troubleshooting, so we can get this issue resolved for you. We look forward to resolving your concerns in a timely and professional manner. If you have any other further questions, feel free to reach out to us.

Thank You, Jose

[BB767]

Thanks Jose. I also sent the questions to Josh directly. He may get back to me with ideas. Thanks for reaching out!

[bobl]

OP sending unit failing.

[davekp]

OP sending unit failing.

Yes. Mine did the same thing.

[Jeff Kleiner]

OP sending unit failing.

If you’re using Speedhut gauges this is likely the culprit...I’ve had 3 or 4 of their pressure senders fail across multiple cars.

Jeff

[BluePrintEngines]

If you have any other questions, or concerns feel free to reach out to us.

Thank You, Jose

[mike223]

If you’re using Speedhut gauges this is likely the culprit...I’ve had 3 or 4 of their pressure senders fail across multiple cars.

Jeff

My experience is that their sensors *may* be sensitive to vibration - I'm not certain if they're capacitive or piezoresistive.

I have had my oil pressure sensor (Speedhut G-SNDR-01) remotely mounted to the frame for years (associated with Accusump plumbing) - and never had a problem with it.

I have replaced multiple fuel pressure sensors (Speedhut G-SNDR-02) which I currently have mounted to the fuel log feeding a double pumper - I've had nothing but trouble with these (mounted to the engine).


I plan to move this sensor to the bypass regulator (mounted to the frame) next time I get into it.


All my temp gauges are the old one wire thermistor type (G-SNDR-14) - I haven't had trouble with any of those mounted directly to the engine.

[edwardb]

One thing to keep in mind -- assuming we're talking about Speedhut gauges -- there are two versions of the oil pressure gauge and sensor. The older style 2-wire resistive sensor was definitely a quality concern. They were used for a number of years and as Jeff said had a somewhat checkered history. I've replaced one myself. In the last year or two, Speedhut changed to a 3-wire voltage output style. In addition to being more compact it's supposedly more durable. Too early to say from what I've seen. This has come up in several build threads because the parts where ahead of the instructions.

[BB767]

Thank you! I was thinking sender myself but wanted confirmation. I am using the sender and vintage gauges from the kit. Any suggestions on brand of replacement part? Obviously I do not want to do this again, what brand will last? I was thinking a Ford Motorcraft stock 351W sensor.

[BB767]

Edward. I am not at home to confirm but I am pretty sure it is a two wire. My kit is a 2017 manufacture. Have you found a quality two wire to replace it with? Thanks.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thank you! I was thinking sender myself but wanted confirmation. I am using the sender and vintage gauges from the kit. Any suggestions on brand of replacement part? Obviously I do not want to do this again, what brand will last? I was thinking a Ford Motorcraft stock 351W sensor.

It's Speedhut specific. Call them and they'll send you one...they're kind of used to having to replace them ;)

Jeff

[BB767]

Bummer. Ok, thanks for the clarification.

[emac]

I had the same issue with my oil pressure sender. One of the posts was loose and if you jiggled it it would work. Replaced it.

[BB767]

https://www.kasensors.com/sites/default/files/downloads/ASH%20High%20Performance%20Pressure%2006.20.pdf

Has anyone tried something like this? Reading the details it appears it can be configured with the same input (1/8"-27 NPT) and output (0.5 - 4.5V) parameters as the Speedhut 100psi unit. Of course Speedhut (and all the other manufacturers) want you to buy their product, but as long as the signal is compatible I do not see any reason it would not work. Worst case outcome, it reads wrong and I have to go back to the original. Opinions?

[edwardb]

https://www.kasensors.com/sites/default/files/downloads/ASH%20High%20Performance%20Pressure%2006.20.pdf

Has anyone tried something like this? Reading the details it appears it can be configured with the same input (1/8"-27 NPT) and output (0.5 - 4.5V) parameters as the Speedhut 100psi unit. Of course Speedhut (and all the other manufacturers) want you to buy their product, but as long as the signal is compatible I do not see any reason it would not work. Worst case outcome, it reads wrong and I have to go back to the original. Opinions?

Wrong sending unit type. If in fact you have a 2-wire sender (likely based on your 2017 kit) that's a resistive style. The sender you linked to sends a variable voltage signal. Not compatible. The Speedhut sensor you need https://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/product/603/Resistive-Pressure-Sensor---100-psi,-240-33-Ohms-(Speedhut-Line) has had issues to be sure. But also many use them without any issue. In typical fashion, only the failures get mentioned. If you really want to dig into it, you could replace the gauge with a variable voltage type and run a 3-wire sensor. Arguably would be an upgrade and likely the reason Speedhut has changed over to this type for newer gauges. But a lot of work on a finished car. Personally, I'd replace the $29 sender and move on.

[Jeff Kleiner]

https://www.kasensors.com/sites/default/files/downloads/ASH%20High%20Performance%20Pressure%2006.20.pdf

Has anyone tried something like this? Reading the details it appears it can be configured with the same input (1/8"-27 NPT) and output (0.5 - 4.5V) parameters as the Speedhut 100psi unit. Of course Speedhut (and all the other manufacturers) want you to buy their product, but as long as the signal is compatible I do not see any reason it would not work. Worst case outcome, it reads wrong and I have to go back to the original. Opinions?

Apparently you didn’t understand my reply...Speedhut will warranty your failed sender and there won’t be a charge (at least that’s what they’ve done for the ones that I’ve had fail). I have done the remote mount with a section of AN hose on 2 or 3 and they have not failed. I agree with Mike’s comment and think vibration is the killer.

Jeff

[BB767]

Edward, Jeff.

Thank you so much for your advice, I know it is some of the most respected and reliable help I can get here!

I do understand what you are saying and Speedhut already has a replacement in the mail. I'll take my chances with this replacement, if it fails again I'll add the remote mount. I agree that it is was probably killed by vibration; as many here have needed to do, mine is attached to a short extension tube necessary to have mounting clearance. This is all assuming of course that the sender turns out to be the root of the problem. Speedhut did offer to upgrade me to a mechanical unit (for a cost) but I am not inclined to tear into my finished car to change out the gauge and add the associated plumbing. Likewise for the three wire unit.

I am rather surprised that there are not other options for such a relatively simple piece of equipment. That is why I was asking about the aftermarket sending unit. There are a number of them advertised for hot and high vibration locations on competition engines and I'll bet someone with the necessary technical knowledge could easily determine which one of them would work. Unfortunately that is not me.

Thank you again gentlemen. I will update the thread once I have driven for a few hours with the new sender installed. Brien

[BB767]

P.S. Edward you are correct (as usual), it is a big silver two wire unit.

[egchewy79]

Looks like I'm the latest victim of a bad oil pressure sender from speedhut. I was on a 20min cruise and was having #55-60 pressure the whole time. While pulling in to my driveway, I looked down to see a pressure of 0. As far as I can tell, I didn't dump 8qt of oil on the street and haven't been smoking like a mosquito fogger truck, so I'm assuming it's the sender.

As I'm reading above, vibration seems to be the killer. My sender is directly screwed into my block. Do the extensions help with the vibration, or am I better off looking for a remote location? And does anyone know what size threads/adapters are needed for a SBF if going to a remote location? I'll be calling speedhut tomorrow.

[emac]

I would try a replacment from them and see how long it last. My replacement is still working.

[egchewy79]

I would try a replacment from them and see how long it last. My replacement is still working.

is your's directly in the block? with no extension arm?

[emac]

Just checked some pictures and mine is on an extension to clear the oil filter. If you look closely in the attached picture you can see the extension. You may be on to something with vibration. I am pretty sure my failure was self inflicted as on post was loose.


149609

[rich grsc]

Directly to the block is the least vibration

[egchewy79]

Directly to the block is the least vibration

less vibration than a remote location? I'm thinking of doing what Kleiner did and get a length of braided SS hose and fittings and putting it somewhere on the frame.
I can see how the extender might lead to more vibration. I've also read that it might be heat that kills these senders. any thoughts on that? Another forum thread mentioned how the gauge failed whenever the car was driving in hot situations and would work again after cooling down. I'll check it tonight to see if my gauge is reading pressures again after sitting overnight.

[egchewy79]

Oh, and I have some left over 6AN braided SS line. would it be OK to use this for my remote sender or should I get a smaller line? I've found adapters for 1/4NPT to 6AN (block thread) as well as 1/8NPT to 6AN (sender thread).

[BB767]

UPDATE:

Two fairly long drives in with the new sender. Pressure is rock solid again. Hope this one lasts. Thanks again for the advice.


Edward, Jeff.

Thank you so much for your advice, I know it is some of the most respected and reliable help I can get here!

I do understand what you are saying and Speedhut already has a replacement in the mail. I'll take my chances with this replacement, if it fails again I'll add the remote mount. I agree that it is was probably killed by vibration; as many here have needed to do, mine is attached to a short extension tube necessary to have mounting clearance. This is all assuming of course that the sender turns out to be the root of the problem. Speedhut did offer to upgrade me to a mechanical unit (for a cost) but I am not inclined to tear into my finished car to change out the gauge and add the associated plumbing. Likewise for the three wire unit.

I am rather surprised that there are not other options for such a relatively simple piece of equipment. That is why I was asking about the aftermarket sending unit. There are a number of them advertised for hot and high vibration locations on competition engines and I'll bet someone with the necessary technical knowledge could easily determine which one of them would work. Unfortunately that is not me.

Thank you again gentlemen. I will update the thread once I have driven for a few hours with the new sender installed. Brien

[egchewy79]

glad to hear that speedhut is responsive to the matter. I'm still waiting for a call back from them. I'm going to go ahead and set up a remote location so I don't have to worry about this in the future.