Rivets on the transmission cover

[Blitzboy54]

So the manual specifically tells you to mark the River holes along the front of the transmission tunnel on both pieces of cockpit aluminum but as far as I can tell never tells you when to finish riveting them. When can I complete the rivets on both of the front sides of the tunnel? Appreciate the help

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[TMartinLVNV]

I sealed and riveted that part at the stage you are at now. It was not a problem for me. Leave your tranny tunnel cover removable until just before you cover it with carpet.

[GoDadGo]

Here is a little food for thought:

Many of us rivet the side bits and then make the transmission tunnel top removable.
Factory Five Metals has a really nice .060" thick piece that has no holes.

Link To FFMetal:
https://www.ffmetal.com/#ttt

All Access Panels & Dash Are Removable:
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

Just a suggestion from the Peanut Gallery.

[toadster]

the one cool thing with rivets is you can drill them out anytime and re-do them :) trust me, I know!! LOL

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks Terry! I’ll start today

Godad, I used their firewall and like it a lot. I am most likely going to get the transmission cover.

Toadster, great point.

[egchewy79]

In my experience, the tunnel sides don't quite meet the 3/4" diagonal frame and it's hard to get a rivet to stay there. I just riveted along the top of the tunnel frame.
you're also going to want to pull your steering shaft out a bit. it seems like your wheel wouldn't clear the dash with it pushed in as far as you have it.

[RBachman]

Dittos!

I did the same thing......riveted the sides and left the top removable. A thin adhesive backed weatherstrip along the top rails provides better sealing for the FFR Metals tunnel cover. The interior/carpet along with the extra thickness of the tunnel cover makes it tight enough that only a few screws (3 on each side) are needed.

[Jeff Kleiner]

So the manual specifically tells you to mark the River holes along the front of the transmission tunnel on both pieces of cockpit aluminum but as far as I can tell never tells you when to finish riveting them. When can I complete the rivets on both of the front sides of the tunnel? Appreciate the help



To answer the original question...you can rivet them now.

Jeff

[CobraboyDR]

Instead of rivets, has anyone considered aircraft-type quarter-turn Camloc fasteners for components that may require frequent removal, like dashboards and transmission covers?

Something like these: Aeroloc quarter-turn aircraft fasteners. (http://www.aeroloc.co.uk/200-1000-series)

They make removing metal covers on small (and maybe large) aircraft simple and effective.

[Jdav]

Instead of rivets, has anyone considered aircraft-type quarter-turn Camloc fasteners for components that may require frequent removal, like dashboards and transmission covers?

Something like these: Aeroloc quarter-turn aircraft fasteners. (http://www.aeroloc.co.uk/200-1000-series)

They make removing metal covers on small (and maybe large) aircraft simple and effective.


FYI - neither of those require frequent removal

[GFX2043mtu]

Leave it open until after the drivetrain is in and any wiring and trans hook up’s are done. It just makes the job easier.

[CobraboyDR]

FYI - neither of those require frequent removalSeems some do remove them frequently, based on forum posts.

Seems a better alternative to drilling out rivets. Just sayin'...

[egchewy79]

My trans tunnel top is attached via 1/4"-20 nutserts on the sides at each corner. easy removal if needed.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

4 black upholstery screws. FWIW only removed once so far but don't see the need to rivet it in.

[Rdone585]

Over 19 years mine has been off at least 8 or 10 times. Remove tranny once or twice, remove engine and tranny a few times, replacing carpet, redoing wiring alone the underside of the tunnel, changing tranny fluid, replacing shifter, replacing shifter boot. OK it looks like maybe more than a dozen times. It's easy to remove mine, only one bold in the rear. It's held in place with, one bolt, rails near the front on each side, and a piece of Z shaped aluminum sheet metal that mates with another piece on the frame in the front. The whole tunnel cover is lightly padded and covered with the same material as the dash.
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[Blitzboy54]

In my experience, the tunnel sides don't quite meet the 3/4" diagonal frame and it's hard to get a rivet to stay there. I just riveted along the top of the tunnel frame.
you're also going to want to pull your steering shaft out a bit. it seems like your wheel wouldn't clear the dash with it pushed in as far as you have it.

You're right about the shaft. Thanks for the tip.

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[dpariso]

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