Tras plate alignment issue

[kd0wda]

I just dropped in my engine/trans from Blueprint Engines (with TKO 600) yesterday. However, I'm finding the the slots on the transmission plate will not align (regardless of the flange orientation, although UP seems to be how it should go). Anyone else have this issue? Should I just grind the slots open a little more or is something else amiss? Any suggests would be greatly appreciated. Here's a photo under the chassis looking up at the trans plate. You can see how far off those holes are. I can get them close, but not enough to get the bolts to screw in correctly.

I saw P100DHG's post about having issues and I too had a heck of a time getting the engine into the car, but the engine mount bolts and pins are seated in the supports on the chassis. I did not modify the mounts as he did and sure hope that's not the required solution because my wife and neighbor aren't going to help me pull and drop it a second time ;)

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[P100DHG]

Can you take a wider shot of the trans mounting plate. I know that's probably difficult. I am trying to see if the bent end of the mount is facing up or down. It should be facing up, though the directions/manual make it seem like it is down which isn't correct.

Also take shot of you transmission and driveline from a birds eye view.

I know your pins and mounts are seated. So were mine, but man was my driveline way off.

Don't worry about your neighbor and wife. You don't need them to modify your mounts. Let me explain. Leave the transmission mounting plate in place and secured to the frame. This will support the end of the transmission. Then attach your engine hoist to the engine and lift the engine up 6". Remove the mounts, relieve them as necessary and reinstall them. The engine will slip into place. But before you go through the trouble, upload those two pictures if you have time.


For those of you wondering what's going on you can reference my experience here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29393-P100DHG-Build-Thread-Gen-3-Coupe-138&p=396461&viewfull=1#post396461

[kd0wda]

Here are those additional photos. The flange is UP. How much adjustability is there in the driveline? If I were to mill out the trans plate a little would it cause issues?

Note that at the moment the trans is just resting on the plate (because I can't get the bolts in underneath) and the engine is in place, but also not bolted tight. I can wiggle the trans either direction "a little". It's as though the trans needs to be shifted reward about 1/4" to work, not so much left/right, although it's off about 1/8" or so that direction too when not forced into place. Not sure how to adjust fore/aft at all w/o making adjustments to the trans plate.

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[kd0wda]

Here are images with the drive shaft mocked in place. Does this look reasonable?

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[P100DHG]

First your driveline looks pretty good you’re in the ballpark as compared to how off you’d be if the mount was upside down.

I am trying to remember what was going on at this point in my build. I remember that the motor mount appeared to be sitting flat but when I took a picture of it and sent it in to FFR. Dave said it’s wasn’t sitting flush. And on close inspection Dave was right.

When I relieved the mount it helped shift everything correctly. I am at the limit of the transmission mount like you, but it did line up forward/aft. I would not mill anything without consulting an expert. I am not an expert. You can see in my original post you have a ton of left and right play without muscling anything.

Knowing what I know now, if your engine block has those supports on it like mine did I don’t see away around making a relief in the mount.

I hate redoing work but I remembered when I got this right the feeling of satisfaction was tremendous.

This is a picture of a another engine I have in my garage and if you’re block has this support I’d get to relieving the mount and see if that works. If it doesn’t and you’re still having issues than I’d say this is above my pay grade.

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[David Williamson]

My car is an early one #16 and it had some QC issues with how the engine mounts were welded to the frame so it was slightly different. Anyway I ended up having to re-drill the transmission mounting plate so the slots would line up with the transmission mount. In my case I could not bolt up the transmission mount with the plate in either way, yours are closer than mine were. I used 2 bolts to hold the plate in not the 4 that it was designed with. The plate is on top of the frame and really only holds up the weight of the transmission so 2 bolts are strong enough. I also used grade 5 bolts not the low strength carriage bolts that come with the kit. As noted above check your engine mounts are correct and if they are what I did is an option. The other way is to slot the mounting holes on the plate and move it slightly so the transmission mount bolts sign up.
David W

[kd0wda]

Thanks guys. I gave it one more go yesterday and was able eventually to get it bolted down without modification. I think both adjustments are worthy of being mentioned in the next revision of the FFR manual. It was definitely more difficult than I expected. One thing I've noticed is the manual seems to provide a lot of detail on very obvious things (like mounting a battery tray) and avoids the bigger "gotchas" that one might come across. :confused: