Doug's Coupe-R Build Thread

[Bluemont]

Here's the 411 on the FFR build so far...

- Coupe Gen 3 R complete kit
- Gen 3 Coyote crate engine
- T56 transmission w/ 2.66 1st; .63 6th
- Power steering
- IRS
- 3.73 Torsen
- R-Coupe front aero bumper
- Front splitter
- Rear race wing
- Nose and rear side ducts
- Heater/defroster - no A/C
- Windshield wipers
- Sway bars
- Wilwood brakes (black)
- *delete* gauges
- *delete* seat and harness
- Forgeline GX3 wheels

So I've already ordered my engine/drivetrain. That should all arrive here early April. I also ordered my wheels. They should get here May/June. So I'll order tires next. Get all of that stuff assembled and then sit and look at them while I drink beer until the kit arrives.

I'm going to apologize in advance because I'm terrible about taking pictures while I'm doing work in the garage. I'll try to do my best to contribute to the group with build information but I'm confident I won't do nearly as good of a job as so many of the build threads I've been on here learning from.

[Rsnake]

Congratulations and welcome to the family. Great thing about building these is you won't get dirty like working on the old ones. You are going to love it.

[Logan]

Welcome Doug! Congrats on the Coupe-R order. Looking forward to following your build thread. Post pictures of those wheels when they arrive!

[Bluemont]

@Logan - will do. I hope my color combination doesn't get old. And BTW, thanks for all the behind-the-scenes help spec'ing things out.

@RSnake - Thanks and that's a good point. I'm really going to look forward to that. I guess I can put that can of Liquid Wrench back on the shelf.

[Bluemont]

The first parts have arrived... No car yet, just drivetrain parts. I suspect I won't get the car until July.
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[Bluemont]

Another picture of the rear (not like you all haven't seen these before - I'm trying to get better about taking pictures and posting them). I'll spare you from the pictures of all the smaller miscellaneous parts so far. I think the first thing I'm going to do is figure out how to hang this thing up and paint it with POR 15. It already looks like it needs it.
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[only1moreracecaripromiss]

Bluemont,
Not sure if we have met yet? Congrats on your Coupe R order. Mine is set to be complete on May 8th....come one Steward and don't take too long. Question for you? I'm building very similar to you but with a built 427 (eventually with some mild boost) and not a Coyote thought I did heavily consider hacking up my daily S550. I haven't gotten a straight answer out of anyone on wheels. I've seen all over that 17/18"x10 in the front and 12"s in the back are possible. Can you tell me what you specifically got on your Forgeline GX3 wheels?

Good luck on your build and cant wait to see that monsters 5.0 fire up!

[Bluemont]

Bluemont,
Not sure if we have met yet? Congrats on your Coupe R order. Mine is set to be complete on May 8th....come one Steward and don't take too long. Question for you? I'm building very similar to you but with a built 427 (eventually with some mild boost) and not a Coyote thought I did heavily consider hacking up my daily S550. I haven't gotten a straight answer out of anyone on wheels. I've seen all over that 17/18"x10 in the front and 12"s in the back are possible. Can you tell me what you specifically got on your Forgeline GX3 wheels?

Good luck on your build and cant wait to see that monsters 5.0 fire up!

I went with 18x10 front and 18x12 rears. I downloaded the build manual. Page 556 shows what wheel sizes they recommend. 10 front and 12 rear should be fine for what I'm doing so I just went with what FFR recommended.

Congratulations on your car too. I'll look forward to seeing how it comes out. That sounds like it is going to be a pretty hot setup...

[Bluemont]

New wheels arrived today.
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[GoDadGo]

New wheels arrived today.
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Nice!

[Bluemont]

No kit yet but I finally got time to start on a few things for the engine. Got the engine on the stand.
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Removed the flywheel that came with it.
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Started painting the rear with POR 15.
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Going to start on the oil pan next. Looking at the FFR instructions it looks like there is a sensor plug for the pan but I haven't found that yet. Need to figure out what's up with that.

[Bluemont]

Painting the rear of the car I learned a lesson about POR-15. Be very careful about getting paint around the lid of the can. If that stuff dries on the lid, you're screwed. So I bought a can of gloss black and with my new learning repainted the rear since I thought gloss black would look better. And I guess I had nothing better to do. Oil pan next. Still waiting on notification from Factory Five about when my kit will be ready.
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BTW - cicadas are starting to get pretty crazy around here. But the dog thinks they are delicious!
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[TheMole]

Painting the rear of the car I learned a lesson about POR-15. Be very careful about getting paint around the lid of the can. If that stuff dries on the lid, you're screwed. So I bought a can of gloss black and with my new learning repainted the rear since I thought gloss black would look better. And I guess I had nothing better to do. Oil pan next. Still waiting on notification from Factory Five about when my kit will be ready.
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BTW - cicadas are starting to get pretty crazy around here. But the dog thinks they are delicious!
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I also got some POR under the lid and thought I was done...then I looked at a screwdriver and some tape and just punched a new hole...when I was done I taped over the hole, and repeated this process until I was finished...

[Bluemont]

I'm sure many have done this part before me but here's an update anyway (sorry if you've seen this stuff before)...

I'm heading out to Colorado and Wyoming for two weeks. My car should be done on Saturday. I called Stewart and asked them to not deliver it until at least July 10 when I'm back. I can't wait to get back and get started...

Since it is getting close I figured I would knock out the oil pan. Took off the original and installed the new windage tray, pickup and oil pan. Here's some pictures (they didn't seem to come out in order, not sure why). Everything went together pretty smoothly.

Still no ECU. Who knows how long that's going to take on backorder these days... :rolleyes:

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[TheMole]

Nice Progress!

[Bluemont]

The car is here! Here's some pictures. Thanks to my friends Doug, Jim and Scott for helping to unload. Having 3 extra people was just about right to get everything unloaded and put away in the garage pretty quickly...

Now to start taking inventory and figure out how I'm going to organize all of this...

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[Skuzzy]

Congratulations on the delivery!!

[Bluemont]

Ok, so I have started on my inventory. Trying to count every nut and bolt. Some of the parts are hard to tell what they are but you can usually figure it out via a process of elimination. I have one box so far that seems like is has nothing to do with what the packing list says it is. I'll see if there's something mis-labeled as I get further through. Trying to keep everything in the boxes and organizing them a bit more to get started.
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[Zlinman]

Any idea what you will do for an oiling system? I had no luck with the stock Coyote/FFR setup. Currently I am running an Accusump. Thinking of a dry sump.

[Jim Wehr]

This was a FUN Day!

[Logan]

As Zlinman alluded to, the amount of G-forces this chassis is capable of will test the limits of even a well-baffled wet sump oil pan. I spent months going back and forth on whether to do a dry sump on mine. Ultimately I chose not to, for two reasons:

1. I wanted AC, which means the AC compressor goes where the dry sump pump would have needed to go. So it's one or the other.
2. Cost. Around 4-5k for the dry sump kit from Aviaid.

My car is not done yet (not even close), but I'm driving it right now, and running autocross events. I already regret my choice for not going with a dry sump. My advice is to consider one now, while it's much easier to add! I'm going to run my Gen3 Coyote with the baffled wet sump pan and keep an eye on the oil pressure. If I can squeeze an Accusump into my system, that could be a halfway solution, but dry sump is by far the best way to go if you can.

On a lighter note, congrats on receiving the kit! Hopefully your backorder/POL list is short and quickly fulfilled. Have fun with the inventory!

[Bluemont]

Any idea what you will do for an oiling system? I had no luck with the stock Coyote/FFR setup. Currently I am running an Accusump. Thinking of a dry sump.

I'm planning on using an Accusump. I agree with Logan that a dry sump is the best way to go. But I have an Accusump on a Cobra that I used to do a lot of track days and autocrosses in and it did the job. I could see the oil pressure gauge come down and see the Accusump kick in long enough to get me through the turn I was in. So I'm going to give that a go this time. And it is a whole lot cheaper (and I think a little less complicated).

[Bluemont]

Ok, today's report. I finally finished the inventory. Counted every nut and bolt. I have a bunch of things that were missing (most that FFR noted as missing and some that I noted that they said was there). Sent them an email to find out how they want to do the reconciliation discussion since I know they're really busy. I now have enough brown wrapping paper to start the fire pit for years to come.

While my son was home from college for a few days, I took the opportunity to have some help to take off the body and remove all the aluminum panels. Those two in front of the foot boxes were tricky to get out - we'll see if I can ever get them back in there.:confused: Here's some pictures. My son is 6'3" and seemed to fit in there ok. We'll see how that goes when there's a seat and panels back on. Climbing through the cage didn't seem to bad on this car. We'll see how that is also when there's a seat and other stuff in there. I also started a Google photo album (https://photos.app.goo.gl/qZg81XEJszYcuDL27) for anyone that would like to take a look. But be warned there are a lot of random pictures of things just to document how they go together. So if you dive in there, there will be a lot of scrolling...

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[Bluemont]

I got the first small part done. Bolted up the steering rack. Pretty straightforward. Just had to clear out some of the powder coating to get the bolts through the holes in the frame. The challenge now is that suspension is next but my control arms were all backordered so I don't have them.

Anyone have suggestions for what areas I should focus on that won't mess things up being out of order? I was thinking I might be able to start mounting the rear end center section. There's a lot of parts I don't have so it is pretty slim pickings for areas to work on.

Here's picture proof of the progress so far...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zZA84dw3Jl0FOyH4h7e9wjZcBk09rDCZf0h3VvYEJN-WFubEKAVCMYmx8vbvmJ5mdcw7L6MQcvKFhv3jM9491OMDgCsei 3IpKMDF_dSq99VJ-68iEUbGctmcJpA6kfqr-lbV3ZF5OI-2NtDRdmalHnFwBR0mnDG7iESBE1oHv8ziNsFdnTwKwfSiiZouU 8kwrSqmcGUE3gZPboZt4HbjtWknVDxEGuUUAGcoo6_X5IoXmjo 8GCF9RYNGzZanINdDSbhQKYnDV4hnTX7OL_S0XObt47h5uMUmh jsVGxGBT9xvA1e9Y43_8u4K_ZhfuYEyP3TxNraN0s26hug9c4D u7XX1qCV-_2sjxExQbwu_8nmbOT0owTQ37n8N7iX88aosWcStcAJZs3IP4_ 7CyxA9WnhlMSgKf5Qva_JQyNNAY-At3JFG8ohCN0McBfChOTgnrYxLXiKz-LZj_z9oGpVmvYIw40sDSLihX59Qh4ANmdexuNn3huEAF8qK-0SjQvH-GoGrJ_ZtZGCAOBELnJK1fGyGWEHT4QQrrxdwkm6XhY2W62aiBP GAQfZcdS6mHzQaTRr3hfTXA8sBKYiu72Dmy2uKip7TuJTXMYGX 6qLEkwPhGc3zg2a92O7jRyFXNPe8VXZua6fJi2IOrx46NnIUSy p-tS7xh4bYSznpYxETaMgslYWZXQrMMEIs6ic9Dzy9edVB43iFK4 s7krtQCw=w1668-h939-no?authuser=0

[Logan]

1. Clean powdercoating from all suspension mounting holes
2. Mount differential
3. Start drilling and cleco'ing the aluminum panels
4. Mount radiator, and AC condensor/PS cooler if using those
5. Install pedal assembly with master cylinders
6. Install steering shaft bearings, and install column with steering wheel (at least temporarily). You'll want a quick-release steering wheel too, so research those, I recommend the NRG brand
7. Start figuring out seat fitment. This takes longer than you think to get right, at least it did for me
8. If you have your rear knuckles, trim them so they're ready to go when you get your control arms
9. Mount the battery tray, which goes just behind the steering rack unless you're going to relocate it
10. Start laying out your dash configuration with a sharpie
11. Is your clutch and pressure plate installed? Bellhousing dial-indicated? Transmission bolted to the bellhousing yet?

The control arms won't slow you down unless you let them :)

[Bluemont]

1. Clean powdercoating from all suspension mounting holes
2. Mount differential
3. Start drilling and cleco'ing the aluminum panels
4. Mount radiator, and AC condensor/PS cooler if using those
5. Install pedal assembly with master cylinders
6. Install steering shaft bearings, and install column with steering wheel (at least temporarily). You'll want a quick-release steering wheel too, so research those, I recommend the NRG brand
7. Start figuring out seat fitment. This takes longer than you think to get right, at least it did for me
8. If you have your rear knuckles, trim them so they're ready to go when you get your control arms
9. Mount the battery tray, which goes just behind the steering rack unless you're going to relocate it
10. Start laying out your dash configuration with a sharpie
11. Is your clutch and pressure plate installed? Bellhousing dial-indicated? Transmission bolted to the bellhousing yet?

The control arms won't slow you down unless you let them :)

Thanks for the list :cool:...

I figured that things like steering would be in the way. Radiator isn't here yet :(. But I'll go and get to it.

[Logan]

Hey Doug, how's the progress on the Coupe-R? Still waiting to see/hear how those awesome Forgeline GX3R wheels fit the chassis and body!

[Bluemont]

Hey Doug, how's the progress on the Coupe-R? Still waiting to see/hear how those awesome Forgeline GX3R wheels fit the chassis and body!

Hi Logan. Sorry for the late reply. I didn't get the notification of your post... I'll answer the question with an update.

So I was holding off on doing anything until I got the suspension parts. I finally received them this past week (like getting more Christmas presents :cool:). So I am really just getting started. I have now assembled the front upper and lower control arms as well as the coil overs. This evening I went out to install the spindles and ran into a snag. So I have a question for you and anyone else on the forum that can help...

The instructions say to use a spacer on the lower castle nut to line it up with the hole for the cotter pin. That all worked out fine. The top one doesn't mention anything about a spacer. And when I tighten down the castle nut, it looks like the hole is too high on the nut to have the cotter pin be reliable for holding it. Did anyone else have to shim the upper castle nut as well? I could probably use a couple of washers to shim it as it doesn't look like it needs to move a lot. Any help would be appreciated.

Here's a few pictures of some progress. I'm sure it is pretty much the same as you see on all the other threads, so sorry for the lack of any new news yet...

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[Bluemont]

Ok, got some more work done the last couple of days. Spindles and brakes are all done. Spindles and hubs all bolted up without any real issue. Big thank you to Paul for the tips on how to safety wire the bolts for the Wilwood rotor setup. I hadn't thought about using the safety wire pliers to pull the wire through. That helped a lot! You have to do that about 12 times. I started to get good at it on the last one. Anyway, got that stuff all done. Brake calipers didn't seem to need the shims that the instructions said to start with. Took them out. Still wasn't centered but that was the closest I could get. Test fit the wheels (see pictures below). Wheels are 18x10. Everything clears fine and wheels turn freely. It is fun seeing the wheels bolted on the front. @Logan - here's the first pictures of the front wheels.

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[Logan]

Looking good! Forgeline makes awesome wheels, I'm eager to see the rear fitment next, then with tires on the ground, then with the body on... :D

1. You're probably already noticed this and have a plan, but that's a lot of negative camber, since the turnbuckles on your UCA are all the way in. I suggest threading them out a bit and eyeball or measure the wheel shooting for 1-2 degrees of camber. That way when you get tires on, or body set in place, you don't panic thinking the wheels don't fit right.

2. Somehow I missed your prior post, but you can use a hardened washer under the nut to space it as needed for the cotter pin to fit better in the castle nut.

3. Another suggestion is to flip the front bolt around in your lower control arm. Put it in from the back, pushing through the bushing towards the radiator, with the nut on the front/radiator side. That way you could remove the LCA without having to remove the radiator to get that bolt out (the way you have it now). This logic applies to a few other areas during the build too, where a bolt could be "captured" by other components, so you may want to consider putting it in the other way.

4. Your upper control arm is mounted to the chassis in the higher setting, but everything else is in the lower setting. I believe you need to move the UCA down, and sandwich the black crossbar between the plates, rather than above the plates as you have it now. I remember the assembly instructions being confusing about this, especially with regards to Coupe-R setup.

Keep up the good work, nice to see the progress pics! And Happy New Year!

[Bluemont]

Looking good! Forgeline makes awesome wheels, I'm eager to see the rear fitment next, then with tires on the ground, then with the body on... :D

1. You're probably already noticed this and have a plan, but that's a lot of negative camber, since the turnbuckles on your UCA are all the way in. I suggest threading them out a bit and eyeball or measure the wheel shooting for 1-2 degrees of camber. That way when you get tires on, or body set in place, you don't panic thinking the wheels don't fit right.

2. Somehow I missed your prior post, but you can use a hardened washer under the nut to space it as needed for the cotter pin to fit better in the castle nut.

3. Another suggestion is to flip the front bolt around in your lower control arm. Put it in from the back, pushing through the bushing towards the radiator, with the nut on the front/radiator side. That way you could remove the LCA without having to remove the radiator to get that bolt out (the way you have it now). This logic applies to a few other areas during the build too, where a bolt could be "captured" by other components, so you may want to consider putting it in the other way.

4. Your upper control arm is mounted to the chassis in the higher setting, but everything else is in the lower setting. I believe you need to move the UCA down, and sandwich the black crossbar between the plates, rather than above the plates as you have it now. I remember the assembly instructions being confusing about this, especially with regards to Coupe-R setup.

Keep up the good work, nice to see the progress pics! And Happy New Year!

@Logan - Happy New Year!

1) Yeah, I noticed the camber and was planning on tweaking that. Easy enough to do. Just hadn't bothered to do it yet. Was going to wait to get it on the ground and on the suspension.

2) That's what I ended up doing. I was planning on using a washer and Paul replied with the same thing. Hardened washer in place.

3) Thanks for the suggestion. I just blindly followed the instructions / directions. I didn't realize those would be trapped. I'll go and swap those.

4) So I originally installed it in between the plates. Then I flipped the page and saw they say to put it on top of them for the Base and R model. And I assumed that was a big part of the reason why I have the camber I have in it right now. But I also assumed they wanted it there for a reason. I'll email the tech guys and see what the deal is there. But it looks like I'll have to take some of my suspension apart to tweak some things, so might as well do that now.

Thanks for the help...

[Bluemont]

Ok, so I corrected the items @Logan pointed out. Manual is definitely a little misleading there. But it makes total sense and had I put a little thought into it while I was doing it, it would have made sense. Anyway, got that done and am starting to move onto the rear suspension. Today I started modifying the rear spindles. I was ok with the 1/2-20 stud so I swapped them out too. Got that done and attached the hubs onto the spindles. Next step is to start working on mounting the rear end...
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[Bluemont]

Got some more done last night and today. Got the rear control arms assembled and ready to go. Pretty straightforward. Did get slowed down a bit looking for the proper nuts for the toe arms. They were on the POL and when I finally received them, I forgot to label the bag they were in. So it was a bit of hunting to find them. Lesson learned. Fortunately, I've been pretty diligent about everything else that I've received. So I don't expect that to happen again. We'll see...
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Then it was on to mount the rear end center section. Didn't have my usual helper available so I got the engine crane out with a lifting strap. Was able to then use a floor jack to hold the back up where I needed it. I read a couple of build threads where people basically said they "just bolted up the center section". Made it sound pretty easy. Unfortunately I didn't have that experience. The holes didn't line up precisely, so it was a lot of prying, threading a little, prying some more, whack it with the mallet, repeat. But it is in there...
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Then to wrap it up for today I got the rear toe arms mounted. That was much easier...
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Hopefully next week I'll have the rear suspension completed...

[Bluemont]

Got the rear suspension and brakes wrapped up today. Last weekend, I realized that FFR had sent me two right-side rear UCAs. When I went to install it on the left side, the grease fittings were facing up and would be impossible to reach with the frame right there (especially the one on the rear). So I contacted Tech Support. They said they would ship a new one out to me. When I asked if they had them in stock, they said to check with shipping. I remember that it took almost 5 months to get the ones that I have. I contacted shipping and didn't receive an answer all week. I figure they are still swamped and that the UCAs are probably not just laying around ready to ship. So I flipped the one I have over, drilled and tapped new holes and moved the grease fittings to the other side. I then used JB Weld to just plug up the old holes. Next time, I think I can do a couple of things to make it look a little cleaner. But the holes are filled and solid. I greased them up again and went back and installed them. When assembling the rear suspension many people mention it doesn't quite line up right. But there's no problem so complex it can't be overcome with brute force and ignorance. I've read about people using screws and nuts to spread the mounts. I was able to just use a big pry bar wrapped with a rag to just bend the ear I needed to move. After that, a little convincing with a mallet and they were in.

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Then I assembled the rear coilovers. Pretty straightforward. Just like the fronts except they mount upside down. Got those mounted up...

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Finally onto the rear brakes. I've got the 12.88 inch Wilwood kit. The kit is very nice and everything bolted right together. The only thing that was strange was that on the left side, I needed 1 shim to get the pads lined up evenly side-to-side with the rotor. On the right side, I had to remove the shim. I'm going to go back and make sure I don't have something else not on straight. But at first look I didn't see anything. I also had to take one shim out from under the caliper to get the pads to sit low enough to line up with the top of the rotors. That was the same on both sides.

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After I had the brakes all wrapped up, I had to try on the wheels to geek out and see how they look! Need to do a rough alignment. But it is fun to see the wheels on there!

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Next I need to torque everything down. Maybe do a super-rough alignment. Then onto the fuel system...

[jamminj]

your wheels look great
I'm running Forgeline also GA1R

[Bluemont]

your wheels look great
I'm running Forgeline also GA1R

Excellent choice. That was the other style I was considering when I picked mine. That's going to look great.

[jamminj]

Even though they look great
My main reason for using them is performance and 18 wheels clear my 15" 6 piston Brembo's

[Bluemont]

Ok, got the fuel tank assembled and installed yesterday. With this being my first FFR build, I'm learning a lot. I've done what I considered building cars before, but that was disassembling an existing car and rebuilding it with newer / better parts (BTW - it is nice working with all new parts instead of dealing with dirty, rusty, crappy ones that you have to take off). I've done that several times. So I already try to stay pretty organized and take my time. Organizing between steps is important. But I'm finding it is even more important with this kit and the much larger set of parts you're dealing with at any one time. I found yesterday that somehow, when I did my inventory, I missed part of box 8. It is strange. When I did the inventory, I very meticulously checked off every single item. I opened every single bag and counted every nut and screw. Or at least I thought I did. It took a long time. The page for box 8 looks like I started and just stopped in the middle. Don't know if I got interrupted or what. But it looks like box 8 might be missing some parts. Have to go back and trace that down and figure out what's going on there. I obviously didn't go through and double-check my work by going through the parts list. :rolleyes:

Also learning that this is very much like building a custom car. The term "kit car" feels like it is not quite right. While the kit has a lot of parts and some instructions, you're having to apply experience and some of your own thinking for how the thing goes together. I find it fun because I've been playing with cars for a long time. But I could see how it could be pretty daunting for someone who hasn't been around cars as much. I am totally new to the newer style Coyote engine, so I'm out of my element there and have a lot to learn and figure out.

Anyway, that's my reflection on the build process so far. Now back to continue on the build update. The fuel filler neck gasket is one of the things that was MIK for me. But I figure it is just a standard fox body one. I went to the auto parts store and bought one so I can keep moving. Looks like it fits right. Won't know for sure about the seal until I put gas in it. I installed the tank in the frame and quickly noticed that the bends in the lip around the tank to clear the straps when on a Mustang cause it to not sit as tight against the frame as it should. Pulled the tank back down. Flattened out the bends in the lip as smoothly as I could and put it back in the frame. Much better. Bent the straps to hold the tank up but the bolts that came with the kit still just seemed a little short. I assume my strap bends weren't as accurate as they could be. I have plenty of grade 8 bolts in all shapes and sizes just in case I need them. Pulled a couple that were just a little longer and bolted the straps up. Tank is in there very tight, it's not going anywhere.

So now I need to start planning out the rest of the fuel system. I'm sure this has been debated at length on this board (and all over the Internet). I'm thinking about using steel braided AN line for both the feed and return on mine. I'm probably going to wait to do that until I do some of the interior paneling work so I can figure out the best place to run it. Looks like the manual says to run it down the transmission tunnel. They probably say that because there's no other good place to go with it. In the meantime, I'll order my filter and some of the fittings that I don't already have sitting around.

Oh yeah, the little screw that holds the retaining ring for the filler neck ends up sitting right under the frame. Makes it tricky to tighten it. Haven't thought of a better way to handle that yet. One option could be to strap it to the small square piece of the frame instead. Not sure it is worth worrying about that much.

Anyway, here's a couple of pictures...

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[Bluemont]

Been a few months since I posted any progress. Got some of the sheet metal installed. Steering in. And installed the engine and transmission today.

A question for you all. I mounted the accelerator pedal. It looks like the instructions say you have to install the mount for the coyote pedal. But it looks like mine was installed and welded in. The holes didn't seem to be quite right so I had to drill a new one on top to make it sit straight. Now the plug on top of it is very close to the steering. Anyone else have that? I don't yet know if the plug will clear but it is really close. And there's no more room off to the right to move it. So I'll have to figure something out for that if the plug doesn't fit.

Here's a couple of pictures of the engine and trans going in today.

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[Ltngdrvr]

From the builds I have seen, everyone seems to have that issue with the throttle pedal assembly.
Have you cut off the mounts on the right side of the pedal base so it will sit as far to the right as possible?

[Bluemont]

From the builds I have seen, everyone seems to have that issue with the throttle pedal assembly.
Have you cut off the mounts on the right side of the pedal base so it will sit as far to the right as possible?

Yup. Here's a picture.
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[Ltngdrvr]

You can move it downward, and then cut the pedal pad shorter, most every build I have seen they cut the pedal pad shorter for more room. Some have reversed the pedal pad, which raises it up on the arm.

[Bluemont]

You can move it downward, and then cut the pedal pad shorter, most every build I have seen they cut the pedal pad shorter for more room. Some have reversed the pedal pad, which raises it up on the arm.

Yeah, I reversed the pedal pad already to move it up the arm. If I don't have space for the plug, I might have to cut it and slide it down like you said. Thanks for the ideas.

[edwardb]

Looking good. Yes, modifying and mounting the Coyote DBW pedal assembly in the Coupe has been a little bit of a challenge for all Coupe builders. In order to clear the connector, and get oriented properly, it's necessary to have it over the right as far as possible. That means taking more of the external ribs off the module. Then I found if rotated just slightly, it clears. Make sure to check the clearance with the steering column in its final location and the harness plug on the module. This post from my build thread shares my experience. The mounting plate and holes provided by FF are in my experience just a starting place. On the road for three seasons now. Position is fine and works as it's supposed to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=343699&viewfull=1#post343699

[Bluemont]

Looking good. Yes, modifying and mounting the Coyote DBW pedal assembly in the Coupe has been a little bit of a challenge for all Coupe builders. In order to clear the connector, and get oriented properly, it's necessary to have it over the right as far as possible. That means taking more of the external ribs off the module. Then I found if rotated just slightly, it clears. Make sure to check the clearance with the steering column in its final location and the harness plug on the module. This post from my build thread shares my experience. The mounting plate and holes provided by FF are in my experience just a starting place. On the road for three seasons now. Position is fine and works as it's supposed to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=343699&viewfull=1#post343699

Thanks for the information Paul. I can see in the picture of yours that you ended up with the plug on the left side of the steering. Mine is barely on the right side now. I'll look and see if it is possible for me to take off more of the ribs than I already did once I figure out if the plug fits where it is now.

[65BYBYE]

Enjoy the build and can't wait to see the progress pictures and final coupe.

[Honeybadger]

Hey Doug - sorry if I missed it, but what are you planning for gauges and seats/harnesses?

Are you doing a digital dash? Curious on your seat choice as well.

Looking forward to the build!