Coupe wiring Ford Control Pack

[Fbird]

Hey there all I have a series of what will probably seem like stupid questions, but I like to check what I am doing frequently and this is my first rodeo building one of these cars...so better safe than sorry.
The car is a type 65 with Ron Francis harness. I have a 2015 coyote out of a mustang I am using. After I finish the majority of the wiring I am going to drop in just the motor to mock up fuel connections and cooling lines, in addition to the wires to starter, alternator etc.
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Under the hood questions.
1. In the Ford Control pack manual it says to wire a 4 awg line from the battery to the 1 side of the mega fuse and then another shorter 4 awg to the Ford Power Distribution box.
Ok. Seems straight forward. Do I have to do it like this or can I run a line from the battery to the starter and from to the starter up to the mega fuse to power the Ford power distribution box? Otherwise wouldn’t I still need to run another line from the battery to the starter to get power to the Ron Francis harness?
Or wait ..it looks like there is a blue wire to the starter from the Ford control pack. This would then provide power to the RF harness. I think that would negate having to run the second line from the starter.

2. I saw in my coyote install kit they provide a terminal and some 10 gauge red line. Any idea what this is for?Is this to make a hot junction spot to run a line to both the starter and the mega fuse?

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Inside wiring questions..
1. On the 16 way Ford connector I have the ground, SMR, ignition relay trigger,fuel pump wired into the Ron Francis harness.
I have one red HAAT b red line left...is this OK? There was nothing in the coyote install instructions about this hot line.
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2. In the Ron Francis line I have a purple coil tach, gray speed sensor, and green speed sensor lines? It appears I donÂ’t need these? Can I cut them off?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks all builders.

[edwardb]

Outside:

1. There are a number of ways to run the power. But running two cables from the battery isn't necessary. What you're describing is fine. Battery -> Starter -> Mega Fuse -> Coyote PDB. But you still need to power the RF panel. That's the three large red wires: RED-BATTERY FEED, RED-ALTERNATOR FD, and RED-IGN SW->SOL. Some pull those down to the starter battery connection. Works, but a little messy IMO. That red binding post you pictured in #2 is another place you could gather the wires and provide a battery connection for the RF panel. I've used a master disconnect in my Coyote builds. So Battery -> master disconnect. Then Coyote PDB powered off the unswitched (battery) side. So it's never off as the Ford instructions describe. Then on the switched side, a cable back to the starter and another cable to a bus bar for the RF panel wires. More details and pictures in both my 20th Anniversary Roadster and Gen 3 Coupe build. Did it the same for both. That smaller "N" starter wire from the Coyote control pack (don't remember if it was blue...) goes to the small terminal on your starter. Very important. The Coyote system puts +12V on that wire to energize the starter when you turn the key to start and the system is ready. It's not a standard power wire. Highly recommend using the Ford Performance Control Pack instructions in addition to the Factory Five installation instructions. Things like this are (IMO...) explained better.

2. Yes, that's one way to wire, as I described above and agree that's probably what Factory Five had in mind.

Inside:

1. You don't have to use the Coyote pigtail HAAT wire. (It's not even included on the Gen 3.) On my Roadster build, I used it to power the GPS keepalive and clock. Since it's always powered.

2. With the Coyote and a GPS speedo, no you don't need the gray and green speed sensor wires. Although on my Coupe I did use them for a module for my T-56 reverse lockout. Wouldn't apply if you don't have a T-56 or if you do the reverse lockout differently. The tach wire needs to be tapped into one of the Coyote coil-on-plug harnesses. If you're using the Speedhut gauges. The Factory Five Coyote installation instructions explain it. If you have Autometer gauges, you'll need a tach adapter module. And still use the tach wire since it routes the instrument panel tach signal from the engine compartment. There is no tach function in the Coyote control pack.

[Fbird]

Thank you as always Paul. Your documentation on your other builds has been a godsend. As I am looking at all the power feed wires that would be needed to be on the starter I can see why you would want to run to use a cut off . I could not see that until I found myself actually holding the wires in my hand. I am a very visual learner. Using a cut off provides a nice place to run power to the Ron Francis harness so that you don’t have to have a ton of thick lines all running to the starter.

Your feedback has helped solidify a lot of things. I am going to run a cable from the battery to the starter to the mega fuse and to the Ford pdb.That will get the power to the coyote. Then I am going to use the 10 gauge line provided in the coyote install kit to run a line to the starter and to the binding terminal. From the binding terminal I will tie in the 3 red lines on the Ron Francis harness.That will get power to the harness as you mentioned.

Eventually the blue wire from the control pack will go to the small terminal on the starter for the control pack to energize the starter.It is labeled starter lead N on the control pack.