Heater valve vs H pipe.

[Svtfreak]

I know many people use the electric 4 port valve that allows flow when closed to the heater core. Some folks use the H pipe with the smaller diameter crossover. How does that work for y’all? I can decide what I want to do. Nothing will match the complete AN line and fitting setup I am building.

Here’s what I’m thinking. Build my own H pipe out of two -10 tees, two -10 to -4 reducers and a -4 adapter (or short hose with 2 ends) between them. Ford says use a 5/16” restrictor. The vintage air h pipe looks to be about that. -6 would actually be closer to that hose ID but I figure -4 would ensure enough flow to the heater core.

What say you more experienced dudes?

[Alan_C]

I am working on installing the Motorcraft YG-350 heater bypass valve. I agree not designed for AN fittings with it being plastic. You could install the hoses on the bypass valve with clamps, then use hose barb to AN fittings on the other ends.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=380395&jsn=3&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2F l2QOXSJubi7WaPjz7KO9EMWZdikYK5Il11ut5TqFdRxFbVlXmx o9uwf3pY3rGiTHWQfHjJ2XG151SS2mAMBviYODlv6Nbc4F5kbr Co2JEDFWp6ncSKzfStPe2gmjjD20AGjMJ4J0w5cM5qoG2HFRHK EkHMl4M2n0COlHz0jRlZ1%2BvApaYJYYiIcrr%2Ff8PZxKE3jS cq97UCXR5%2FQOUXbgF1GXZwaaveHJPBVCUx0L4wjGlfu5va%2 FJWg3tOBlNlblgFLkYjvyTAj2VPihcg%2BDt3KShcQZrslyFxH kj8IEdwI1q6fpcCpVZs5I

I am keeping the charge motion control valves on the back of the Coyote intake. So not a lot of room up high, but a fair about of room down lower. However the vertice stacking of the heater core inlet and outlet from my Vintage Air evaporator are up too high, so I am now researching how to bend the 5/8" aluminum tubing to relocate the exit points.

There was a discussion here somewhere about potential leaks when mounting the bypass valve inside the interior. I get that is a possibility, but it would sure be cleaner if the bypass valve were plumbed inside. Then you only have the two engine connections going through the firewall. What is your thoughts on this?

The heater hoses on the engine are 3/4" ID. I was going to introduce 3/4" to 5/8" reducers. Since they are under the engine cover, not going to see the reducer connections.

In my research on the bypass valve, I saw a YouTube video where a guy added the bypass valve and noted a 10 degree improvement in cooling the interior. So running hot coolant through the heater core constantly does appear to reduce cooling efficiency.

I used the bypass valve on my Factory Five Cobra. I used a setup recommended by another builder that allowed the use of a Vintage Air NC vacuum solenoid. The YG-350 is setup such that a NO vacuum solenoid is required for the designed usage. I found that Old Air Products sells a 3-way vacuum solenoid that can be set up for either NO or NC operation. I plan to use it correctly control the bypass valve and simplify the plumbing connections.

https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/3-port-vacuum-solenoid-25-1020

I am interested in seeing your complete solution.

[Svtfreak]

I am looking at the same valve you linked. There is one that is controllable by the electric output from the vintage air but I didn’t see it in the quick search I just did.

Originally I was gonna just drill a tiny hole in the 2 port vintage air valve but I don’t need to measure to know that enough coolant flow will seriously affect cooling inside. So ditching that idea. I agree that behind the dash could lead to a burn or messing up nice interior. But a good deflector could prevent the burns. I’m not against that, just yet.

I found coyote heater fittings for the block at Billet Pro Specialties (through beefcake racing). They fit in like stock but are threaded with -12 orb threads. I am using a -12 orb to -10 an which will allow me to run 5/8’s (-10) from there. Not sure how I’m going to adapt to the firewall fitting yet. They make inserts to adapt oring ac style to the an ends. Now I’m just trying to sort out the valve or bypass. I am seriously leaning to doing a valve like that behind the dash, or down low in front of the passengers feet, but behind a false front that will also act as a spray shield. That would be the mechanically proper way to do it, and still be safe.

[Svtfreak]

Here is an example of the the electronic controlled valve.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ELECTRONIC-BYPASS-HEATER-CONTROL-VALVE-FOR-CADILLAC-/153708411641?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Hard to tell but appears to be the same plug config as vintage air uses so it shouldn’t be hard to make it work.

[Alan_C]

The Motorcraft bypass valve is about $25 from RockAuto. The 3-way vacuum solenoid from Old Air Products is about $35 plus shipping. That electronic version is $120.

I already have the bypass valve and I will order the 3-way solenoid this week. I am also going to look at the possibility of having the bypass inside the car. I have to rework the plumbing from the evaporator, I will post pictures if the mock up makes sense.

[Svtfreak]

You’re right, vacuum would be cheaper. But I don’t mind paying a little more to go straight electronic and not have to run another vac line. I cut my lines down to 1. And made it out of -an (boost reference for fuel regulator).

Please post what you come up with here late. I’ll do the same. Still waiting on my heater fittings for the motor so I can see what i need and get the rest of the lines and fittings ordered. Tuesday, I will prolly look at the false front option ans see if that’ll work out to put the right heater valve in. I’m doing the 33, so there is NO room to hide it behind the motor. I guess I could come down the front behind the belt and flow the frame rails with the ac lines and put it there if needed.... ill have to look at that.

[sread]

I put mine down behind the frame next to the motor mounts because I didn't want it inside the car or visible with the open engine compartment. It can't be seen unless you get down on your knees and look for it...but I am running an LS and the outlets from the water pump come out on the lower right also.

[Svtfreak]

I put mine down behind the frame next to the motor mounts because I didn't want it inside the car or visible with the open engine compartment. It can't be seen unless you get down on your knees and look for it...but I am running an LS and the outlets from the water pump come out on the lower right also.

I’m thinking along those lines. Usually, the coyote goes out and along each side of the intake just on top of the fuel rails. But since I am building my own from braided lines, I can make it go wherever I wish. And coming down the front of the motor, of there is room around the belt routing, is one thing I’m considering. Then I’d put it just about where you did also. Maybe even tucked into the hollow back side of the body forward part there.

Thanks for all the suggestion and ideas y’all. Still waiting on one an fitting for the heater port on the motor then I’ll sort all that out.

[Svtfreak]

The Motorcraft bypass valve is about $25 from RockAuto. The 3-way vacuum solenoid from Old Air Products is about $35 plus shipping. That electronic version is $120.

I already have the bypass valve and I will order the 3-way solenoid this week. I am also going to look at the possibility of having the bypass inside the car. I have to rework the plumbing from the evaporator, I will post pictures if the mock up makes sense.

Alan, I found the electronic valve at restomodair.com for 75$.

[Alan_C]

Thanks, I am going to continue with the Ford Ranger bypass valve. I will buy the 3-way vacuum solenoid from Old Air Products so that it works properly.
I received the selection of hoses I bought from RockAuto yesterday and started figuring out how to best connect everything. I will need to bend the 5/8 aluminum hardlines and cut them. Got any ideas on a way to bend the aluminum tubing without kinking or crushing the tubing. Bends are going to be between 30 and 45 degrees, not too bad. My AC lines are ready to take in and crimp, so I am going to call the AC shop and see if they have a 5/8" tubing bender. I also need to flare or swage the end of the aluminum to keep the hoses in place. Once the tubing is bent and the hoses cut to length, I can then look at making a mounting bracket.
I am liking the idea of mounting the bypass valve behind the evaporator more and more. Simply unused space that we can put to good use and make the engine compartment connections simpler.

[Svtfreak]

Alan, I have a tubing bender so I don’t know any other good way to do that. As far as the ends, I have used a double flare tool to throw a slight single flare on the end amd that’s always held good. I’ve also used a file and cut shallow grooves around, 2 or 3 of them then clean up with fine sandpaper. The smooth areas provide sealing and the grooves just prevent it from sliding off.

I’m not worried about connections being back there. Burning someone is a valid concern but can be “engineered” out with protective covers to stop a wild spray and let it run down to safer place. I’m going to do mine like that with the H pipe and single valve. After talking to a couple ac/heat places, they all like that solution best. So I’ll give it a shot.

[Alan_C]

As of this morning, I have a plan. I bought a set of bending springs on Amazon for the tubing, cheap and should do the job for just two bends that are at most 45 degrees. For the bead on the hard lines I found a tool from Earl's last night made to add the hose barb bead. The EZ beader tool is not cheap, $44 for the 5/8" OD size, but it will last a lifetime that my friends will have access to.

https://www.amazon.com/TUOREN-Spring-Bender-Copper-Aluminum/dp/B07R4V431B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=tubing+bending+springs&qid=1617986177&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRU9IV0E0RFM3SlcxJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjY5OTI3MjhOTTVZWDlZMDNJWCZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzYyMzQ0V0RPQUUwWlAxUDZYJndpZGdld E5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm9 0TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-010erl?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=%2bearls+%2b010erl&utm_content=Earl%27s+Performance&utm_campaign=Part+Number+Ad+Groups

[Svtfreak]

That’ll def work.

[Alan_C]

So I received the bending springs and the Earl's EZ-beader. The bending springs would likely work if I could apply enough leverage to bend the tubing. I either had to make a jig, or buy a tubing bender that would handle 5/8". I contacted my local AC shop that crimped my AC hoses, but their tubing bender maxed out at 3/8". I contacted Vintage Air to see if they had a recommendation for a bender. Their recommendation was that I could find a bender at a local building supply that could do the job. Well not at HD or Lowes, so that went no where. I got back on Amazon and found a bender that would handle from 1/2 to 3/4 inch tubing for a bit over $40 plus $ 7 to ship, went for it.
I tried the EZ-beader on the 5/8 inch aluminum hardline. It worked, but it only increased the OD by 0.05 inches. The bead is noticeable and you can see it expand the rubber 5/8 inch hose, hopefully good enough once clamped.
So back to the UPS delay to get the tubing bender. I will post pictures once I have the bypass valve connected to the hardlines.