Aluminum Panel Fitment Questions

[BrewCityCobra]

So I’ve been in the process of pre-fitting the front aluminum panels for powder coating and have a few questions I was hoping the board could help with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1) For the dashboard, should I be trimming the top curve so that it matches the hoop to which it will be mounted. I didn’t want to cut this off only to find out that it was needed to better match the shell once I put that back on. Am I OK to remove?

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2) For gauge location, if I keep a ¾”-ish gap below the top of the hoop, will that also be sufficient to avoid the lip of the shell once it is attached as well? My initial photos of the kit appear to show that ¾” should be low enough but I wanted to make sure I didn’t place an LED too close to the top of the dash and have it interfere or look bad.

3) For the F-Panels – how am I supposed to know if the attachment lip for the elephant ears is at the right angle? I wanted to get it fitted now before I got the panels powdercoated to avoid any undue damage to the coating by bending the panel after the fact (another instance where I am trying to avoid having to put the shell back on to measure if at all possible).

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4) I’m trying to keep the rivet holes as even and straight as possible. Unfortunately, whoever screwed these panels together did so pretty hap-hazardly so I have some self-taping screw holes that are all over the place. Any suggestions on the best way to fill these in that will hold up to the powdercoating process? I would weld them if they were steel but I don’t have the proper equipment to weld aluminum. Can I just fill them with filler?

[edwardb]

1. No, don't trim the dash. The curve of the dash doesn't match the dash hoop. But that's OK. It fits under the body.

2. That's plenty. Typically the larger issue is placing the gauges so they don't interfere with the dash hoop on the back of the dash.

3. The angle on the F-panels is typically OK. Even if you did have to adjust them a little, can be done without harming the PC if you're careful. Not unusual to have to tweak the splash guards themselves.

4. Can't help you there. I agree, the holes are sometimes haphazard. More often than not, they're in a hidden location. When they do show, I usually just go ahead a put a rivet it in. Even if not per my layout. Looks better than a hole.

[AC Bill]

I can't say what to do with your #1 question, as this was not an issue with my Mk3.1. No trimming was required, other then the very outer tips of the dash panel.

As to #2, 3/4" inch should be fine as far as clearance for gauge mounting goes, to clear the dash hoop, but again there was no rolled edge on my body, so can't help in regards to that.
#3, I wouldn't mess with the angle on the F-panel at this point. I don't recall there being any issue with it. Once the body is on, the splash shield can be fitted, and easily adjusted if required. It's quite flexible.
#4- I would just stick another rivet in the factory drilled hole, even if it was out of sync with your other drilled holes. No one will ever notice it. 95% of the aluminum is hidden under the body, or carpeting, other than perhaps a portion of your foot-boxes, and that's only when your hood is open. You could always dab any out of sync rivets, with some paint the same color as the powder coat, if you really wanted to make them less obvious.

[BrewCityCobra]

Glad I asked RE: #1! I was ready to chop that baby up. Interesting that the fiberglass body doesn't rest on that hoop over the entire width of the car.

Just to confirm (now that I'm second guessing myself). To position the blank dash, I generally placed the center of the dash so it was flush with the top of the hoop at the middle of the car, and then evened out the sides so a small amount, as pictured above, sat above the hoop on both the passenger and drive sides.

[Flip Smiley]

BrewCity, I would locate the dash when you test fit the body. With the body on you can see exactly where the dash panel fits best.
Just my experience, Fip

[Rdone585]

BrewCity, I'm just around the corner from you. My MKII may have some differences but more similarities than you might think. You're welcome anytime I'm at home. Or, I can come over to your place, it's just not quite Cobra driving weather yet.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...To position the blank dash, I generally placed the center of the dash so it was flush with the top of the hoop at the middle of the car, and then evened out the sides so a small amount, as pictured above, sat above the hoop on both the passenger and drive sides.

Actually that’s incorrect. Position it so that about 3/16” of the hoop is visible ABOVE the dash on both ends. Also cut about 1 1/2” to 2” from the end of the dash on the passenger side.

Jeff

[edwardb]

...Interesting that the fiberglass body doesn't rest on that hoop over the entire width of the car.

To add to what Jeff said and eliminate any confusion, the body doesn't rest on the dash or the hoop at all. In fact if it does (e.g. the dash is placed incorrectly) it can mess up the door alignment. The body rests on the bulb seal on the firewall in front of the dash hoop.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I failed to mention in post #7 that the curve across the top of the hoop and dash do not match so don't be alarmed.

Jeff

[jeffhelms56]

Actually that’s incorrect. Position it so that about 3/16” of the hoop is visible ABOVE the dash on both ends. Also cut about 1 1/2” to 2” from the end of the dash on the passenger side.

Jeff

I’m really glad I looked at this post. I always thought that the dash corners were 3/16” above the hoop...not the other way around.

Thanks Jeff and Paul.

[BrewCityCobra]

I’m really glad I looked at this post. I always thought that the dash corners were 3/16” above the hoop...not the other way around.

Thanks Jeff and Paul.

Me too, it looks like the instructions must be wrong then (see below). Unless I am reading this backwards.

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[BrewCityCobra]

Jeff, thanks for clarifying. Just to confirm, this is what I have now for the "ends" (both set 3/16" below the hoop).

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Do you find it normal, with Thompsons turn signal kit, that you need to elongate the steering shaft hole upwards? Right now I can't get my driver side low enough without opening up that hole and just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something before I did so.

[jeffhelms56]

Jeff, thanks for clarifying. Just to confirm, this is what I have now for the "ends" (both set 3/16" below the hoop).

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Do you find it normal, with Thompsons turn signal kit, that you need to elongate the steering shaft hole upwards? Right now I can't get my driver side low enough without opening up that hole and just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something before I did so.

I’m doing that as we speak. I have the Russ Thompson turn signal too. When I do that it looks like the Mike Everson trim ring is not going to cover the bottom of the dash hole any longer. I’m going to have to account for that with some filler probably as my covering is the vinyl carbon fiber look-alike and it will need some sort of base to fill the gap.

[BrewCityCobra]

I’m doing that as we speak. I have the Russ Thompson turn signal too. When I do that it looks like the Mike Everson trim ring is not going to cover the bottom of the dash hole any longer. I’m going to have to account for that with some filler probably as my covering is the vinyl carbon fiber look-alike and it will need some sort of base to fill the gap.

Yeah, I have the same issue (using the same ring). I was thinking of possibly adding a small, flush-mounted, "half-circle" shaped piece to cover that up. But I'm holding off on any griding to the top of the hole until I know I'm not going down the wrong path positioning wise.

[AC Bill]

Jeff, thanks for clarifying. Just to confirm, this is what I have now for the "ends" (both set 3/16" below the hoop).
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It may be the angle of the picture, but to me it looks like the dash is still above the hoop, not below it. I can see the hoop above the dash panel in the center, but not on the end.
If you set the dash panel 3/16" below at the ends, you would expose the hoop the entire width of the dash. The hoop at the center of the dash would be even more exposed, by half as much again. It seems really odd that it would be that low on the hoop, but Jeff would know.

The mk3.1 I have was a lot different, when it came to the dash mounting. That added body roll may have created more issues then it was worth.

[BrewCityCobra]

Thanks for the heads up. I have to modify the driver side yet (Will do this weekend) and post a new photo. Still a bit off on whether this thing is properly positioned.

[AC Bill]

Thanks for the heads up. I have to modify the driver side yet (Will do this weekend) and post a new photo. Still a bit off on whether this thing is properly positioned.

I wonder how there will be enough room, when the dash panel is dropped down so far down on the hoop, at the dash center, to still manage to get a mounting screw in there? You think it would almost be at the point of where the hoop's corner is.