Questioning need for Removeable DS Footbox Panels

[txboiler]

I started building up the DS footbox this past weekend and started to consider making panels #7 and #6 removable. This would allow more access to the brake and clutch master cylinders and electrical if the need were to arise. I would use rivnuts on the adjacent panels along the red lines in the photo, and the current removable panel would remain. I plan to run the brake and clutch lines from the reservoirs to the master cylinder through the front of the footbox and the mechanical throttle linkage through the side. I assume that if I did make these panels removable I would need to disconnect that linkage. I figure if I need to get into the footbox to do a repair; disconnecting that linkage would be a minor inconvenience.


Does anyone see a need for this?
Would screws be accessible along the top of the DS footbox where panel #7 attached to the 3/4" tube?
Would screws be accessible along the slower edge of panel #6 with a a SBF installed?

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[CraigS]

Mine is a MkII so the aluminum is different than the current cars, so I recommend you search for pics in build threads. The FFR removeable panel that you already have is about all you can get to w/ the body on. You might be able to get to the top 4-6 inches of panel 6 but the headers will be in your way going lower. Mine is a MkII so the aluminum is different than the current cars

[edwardb]

With the body on and the engine installed (even a SBF) those panels will be very difficult if not impossible to access. First just being able to remove screws. And then being able to actually remove them. I agree it's a little scary to consider any significant repairs through the available access panel and from underneath in the cockpit. No doubt one of the most uncomfortable and difficult areas to work in. But it's the nature of how this is put together. I'd recommend instead on making everything in the footbox as bulletproof as possible. Leave the outside and top DS panels off until the very last body installation. And keep your eyes on everything during that time and R&R if needed. I personally had a Wilwood MC that was leaking not long after the installation, and was able to replace it before buttoning everything up. Other than that, haven't had to do anything major inside the DS footbox on multiple builds. (Knocking on wood...)

[egchewy79]

the body covers up the top of panel #7, so you wouldn't be able to remove those screws.
and for the precut hole in panel #7, you will have a hard time even accessing rivnuts along the top and rear of the opening with the body on. I put a few rivnuts along the front and inside of the panel but none along the back or top. I lined the inside of the removable panel with sound deadener to act as a "gasket" to keep things from rattling.

[Jeff Kleiner]

As has been said the lines you show will be difficult &/or impossible to access once the body is on and engine in. I just snapped this photo of one with a Windsor which shows what you’re going to have:

144535

Short answer is that the FFR designed access cover is about as good as it gets unless you start redesigning and get real creative.

Jeff

[txboiler]

Thanks for all the feedback and helping me end this latest dose of "analysis paralysis".

[Avalanche325]

With just the standard top of footbox access panel, I not only converted from a cable to a hydraulic clutch, but I replaced the entire Wilwood pedal box. I can't imagine that there is a bigger job than that in the footbox area.

I didn't say it was easy...........but I got it done.

[vtullomk4]

144586I made the top panel as big as possible. See attached. The upper part has a tab that slides under the opening. Tab is riveted to the removable panel. Rivnuts on the bottom are accessible with body on.

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[txboiler]

144586I made the top panel as big as possible. See attached. The upper part has a tab that slides under the opening. Tab is riveted to the removable panel. Rivnuts on the bottom are accessible with body on.

144581

I like the approach. Could you send a photo of the panel and the tab?

[vtullomk4]

I thought I took a pic of the tab, but can’t find it. My shop I am using is closed until Monday. So I can take a pic next week.

But it is pretty simple. I made 2 strips of aluminum, from extra panels. Each was about 6-8in long. One about an inch wide. One about 3/4 inch. They are sandwiched and riveted along the top edge of the panel with the wider one sticking out. The narrow one just is a spacer so the wider one can slide under the top panel with the cutout.

[Blue Viking]

I thought I took a pic of the tab, but can’t find it. My shop I am using is closed until Monday. So I can take a pic next week.

But it is pretty simple. I made 2 strips of aluminum, from extra panels. Each was about 6-8in long. One about an inch wide. One about 3/4 inch. They are sandwiched and riveted along the top edge of the panel with the wider one sticking out. The narrow one just is a spacer so the wider one can slide under the top panel with the cutout.

I've been planning on using a tab like you on the panel, but I never even thought of making the panel bigger, might just do that. Thanks for the idea, love this site!

[txboiler]

I thought I took a pic of the tab, but can’t find it. My shop I am using is closed until Monday. So I can take a pic next week.

But it is pretty simple. I made 2 strips of aluminum, from extra panels. Each was about 6-8in long. One about an inch wide. One about 3/4 inch. They are sandwiched and riveted along the top edge of the panel with the wider one sticking out. The narrow one just is a spacer so the wider one can slide under the top panel with the cutout.

Thanks for the info. Photo would be good but not needed because your explanation was one way I was thinking. The other is to make a joggle on a sheet metal brake.

[vtullomk4]

Finally got to the shop to take pictures of the access panel construction. Let me know if you have questions.

Vince

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[ggunter]

Just like everyone else I have looked at accessability to the master cylinder area and cringed at the time it would take and the difficulty of replacement as well as thought of various access panels to make it easier to service that area. Saturday I removed my body for final prep for paint and timed myself without rushing to see how long it takes to remove the body and use that time factor as a hedge against the aggrivation it would be to try to get into the master cylinder area. Start to finish and not rushing it was only an hour and a half to remove the body by myself. So if I ever need to service the master cylinder area that will be my got to process. Even with that cool looking access panel above ( which looks great)it would still be no fun to work in that area.