Silly powder coating question with side mirrors and windshield

[nick7405]

Moving on to the body and everything chrome will be powdercoated. My questing is how are the side mirrors powder coated with the mirror lol shrugs... I don't know how to completely disassemble it including the actual mirror part.

[Bob Cowan]

With most mirrors, if you remove the bezel the mirror comes right out. I haven't held an FFR mirror in my hands for many years (didn't use them), so I don't remember exactly. But the last couple of mirrors I messed with it was one screw at the bottom of the bezel.

With a light weight part like, you're only going to heat them to 350*. A mirror can handle that.

[cv2065]

Speaking from experience, the FFR provided bullet mirror is a bit of a disaster to disassemble, PC and then re-assemble. The glass needs to be removed as it will get to 400 degrees in the PC oven and could shatter. There is also a plastic ring inside that needs to be removed. I ended up not using mine and bought some from The Dream Car Company (a supporting vendor of the site). A little on the expensive side (but what worthwhile isn't?) and the mirrors are WAY more functional and you don't have to drill into the body to install. TDCC will powder coat them for you on request.

Windshield is simple as you just disassemble the frame. Just be aware that the PC heat can warp it a bit and it could be a small challenge getting it all back together again. Use the same original gasket when you reinstall as the replacement ones from FFR are much larger. I'd suggest you getting the SS screw brackets from Whitby's, as that brass it REAL soft and I would have stripped it 100 times trying to get the frame back together.

[egchewy79]

Stock bullet mirror is easy to disassemble. Unscrew the nut at the apex of the bullet and the mirror comes out. Just send the bullet shell and pedestal out for PC.

[cv2065]

Stock bullet mirror is easy to disassemble. Unscrew the nut at the apex of the bullet and the mirror comes out. Just send the bullet shell and pedestal out for PC.

Comment wasn't really about the disassembly itself, but more about the design of the piece that doesn't lend well to powdercoating, unless you want the chrome piece that rotates to remain chrome, which looks a bit silly if you are getting the rest powdercoated. If you powdercoat that piece, it will ultimately scratch and look unsightly if you need to adjust the mirror.

[Blitzboy54]

I’m working on finding someone willing to PC my windshield frame. It wasn’t all that bad getting it apart but my assumption is I don’t want PC in windshield grove. Correct me if I’m wrong but it would make it thicker and harder to re assemble? If it doesn't matter that would be good to know as well.

[nick7405]

Thanks everyone.

[cv2065]

I’m working on finding someone willing to PC my windshield frame. It wasn’t all that bad getting it apart but my assumption is I don’t want PC in windshield grove. Correct me if I’m wrong but it would make it thicker and harder to re assemble? If it doesn't matter that would be good to know as well.

That’s correct. Have them tape off the grooves.

[olson_adam]

Good to know

[Brian76]

Sorry to hijack this thread but I have some additional PC questions...
1. How should the chrome surface be prepped for the windshield, gas cap, mirrors, etc? Light scuff, sand, etch?
2. I assume you "outgas" the parts before spraying them?
3. Is 400F the recommended bake temp?
4. I also want to PC the hood and trunk handles. Since the handle rotates relative to the base, won't the PC process join the two parts together making it unable to turn?
*I'm also curious to those of you with PC gas cap, hood and trunk handles how the finish has held up over time
Thanks!

[cv2065]

Sorry to hijack this thread but I have some additional PC questions...
1. How should the chrome surface be prepped for the windshield, gas cap, mirrors, etc? Light scuff, sand, etch?
2. I assume you "outgas" the parts before spraying them?
3. Is 400F the recommended bake temp?
4. I also want to PC the hood and trunk handles. Since the handle rotates relative to the base, won't the PC process join the two parts together making it unable to turn?
*I'm also curious to those of you with PC gas cap, hood and trunk handles how the finish has held up over time
Thanks!

I'm not expert, but my PC guy used a liquid stripper/etcher for large pieces and a sand blasting cabinet for the small parts, and takes it down to the copper color on the chrome parts. Kept he chemical in a 55 gallon drum and just dipped the pieces in. Apparently, due to recent EPA restrictions, he had to go to an enviro safe product. Said the result was the same but took 3 times the amount of time. You don't want any of that chrome plating left or it could impede adhesion. I have seen some that just scuff until they see copper and have been fine, but I'd hate to have to do it over again.

I believe 400 degrees is the target for baking...not sure about the outgassing part.

Hood and trunk handles don't need anything special. They can be heated and powdercoated as is. I would just ensure that no PC gets into the locking mechanism or it could cause issues turning the lock.

I clean mine with Mother's Instant Detailer. All has been good so far, but I've only got 500 miles, so time will tell. Good news is that you can always remove and have re-powdercoated if necessary.

[Brian76]

I'm not expert, but my PC guy used a liquid stripper/etcher for large pieces and a sand blasting cabinet for the small parts, and takes it down to the copper color on the chrome parts. Kept he chemical in a 55 gallon drum and just dipped the pieces in. Apparently, due to recent EPA restrictions, he had to go to an enviro safe product. Said the result was the same but took 3 times the amount of time. You don't want any of that chrome plating left or it could impede adhesion. I have seen some that just scuff until they see copper and have been fine, but I'd hate to have to do it over again.

I believe 400 degrees is the target for baking...not sure about the outgassing part.

Hood and trunk handles don't need anything special. They can be heated and powdercoated as is. I would just ensure that no PC gets into the locking mechanism or it could cause issues turning the lock.

I clean mine with Mother's Instant Detailer. All has been good so far, but I've only got 500 miles, so time will tell. Good news is that you can always remove and have re-powdercoated if necessary.

Thanks Chad. When your trunk and hood handles came back from the powder coater did they turn freely? Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I thought the powder would fill in the seam between the handle and the base and essentially "glue" both parts together. As for the lock, I was thinking about taping the top surface where the spring loaded keyhole is.

[cv2065]

Thanks Chad. When your trunk and hood handles came back from the powder coater did they turn freely? Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I thought the powder would fill in the seam between the handle and the base and essentially "glue" both parts together. As for the lock, I was thinking about taping the top surface where the spring loaded keyhole is.

Yes they turned fine. The top lock area was taped off during coating.