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richtersand
03-11-2021, 03:30 AM
Hi all, I'm confirming the last few details of my wiring setup before I lock it in. Forgive me if I'm asking obvious questions, just wanted to confirm a few details before there's no going back. Thanks in advance for bearing with me through this, I really appreciate the help.

Unless I'm missing something (which is highly likely), the alternator wiring is going around in a big circle from the battery to main cutoff switch to bus bar back out to the alternator. Given the proximity of the alternator to the battery, is it a bad idea to run the wire directly from the battery to the alternator? This seems simple and eliminates some firewall wiring.

The pigtails for the fuel tank senders are not sitting in the clips very well at all. One kind of pushes on but pops off easily and the other won't even seat very well. Any tips/suggestions on getting these to snap in and stay put?

The Ford Performance install guide 6.2.3 calls for blunt lead 4 to connect to negative lead on MIL. I'm a little confused here because C160A Inline to IP Pigtail does not have blunt lead 4 AND I already have a MIL light wired in the harness. On this MIL light in the harness, I am going to swap the light for MIL to match my other lights and put it on the dash. I am assuming the light wired in the harness is hooked up and I can ignore 6.2.3? Ditto for 6.2.5 MIL Power B+.

EdwardB is saying there is a "hot at all times" 12V coming from the coyote harness. I am assuming this is 6.2.6 HAAT Red? So this is where I wire my clock and GPS? Or is the 12V HAAT coming from somewhere else in the Coyote harness? How do I get both clock and GPS onto this circuit?

Thanks a million!
michael everson
03-11-2021, 06:38 AM
I do exactly what you said with the alt. wiring
I had some issues with those pigtails as well. Look into the pigtail and make sure the terminals are where they are supposed to be. Might need to move them a bit with a small pick or screwdriver.
Skip the MIL section as Its already done for you as you stated.
There are better places to get the "HAAT" in the ron frances harness. There is already a clock wire or you can use the radio memory wire. You can put the clock and GPS on the same feed.
Mike
edwardb
03-11-2021, 09:17 AM
I've done two Coyote related build threads. The Roadster was an early Gen 2 Coyote. The Coupe a Gen 3 Coyote. Ford Performance made a number of changes in the control pack between the two. So important to use the right one for reference. In this case the Gen 3 in the Coupe. Ford eliminated the MIL and HAAT connections in the Gen 3 pigtail. Among other things. For the MIL, later versions of the Gen 2 and the Gen 3 have the MIL installed and mounted next to the ODB2 connector. Easy enough to remove those wires and attach to an LED in the dash where it's more visible. Current versions of the Ron Francis harness have a HAAT connection (Radio memory) which can be used for the GPS keep-alive and the clock. The Gen 3 Coyote pigtail ends up only having three connections -- fuel pump, starter motor request, and ignition relay trigger.

For those connections to the fuel tank (sender and pump) adjust as necessary to get them seated and the little tab connector engaged. Then a good trick is to wrap a large tie wrap around the connector to help keep the tab locked in place. Don't have a picture, but think it's self-explanatory.

Wiring the alternator as you described is fine, as Mike said. I like to add a megafuse, but builder's choice.
rich grsc
03-11-2021, 12:19 PM
Fuel pump/fuel gauge connectors are different. Make sure you are using the correct connector on the correct device.
richtersand
03-13-2021, 01:28 AM
Thanks all!

Got the fuel tank clips zip tied in and feels like a very secure connection now. Thanks for the tip there.

I’ll pull HAAT from the RF harness. Appreciate the help!
richtersand
03-16-2021, 02:42 PM
Sorry, one more question popped up since I'm changing HAAT from PDB to RF. In the end I decided to add a disconnect switch. I will wire the positive to the disconnect switch and run the PDB off of the positive so it's always juiced. The switch will kill the power to the RF harness, so how do I get HAAT power to the clock & GPS?
edwardb
03-16-2021, 09:21 PM
Sorry, one more question popped up since I'm changing HAAT from PDB to RF. In the end I decided to add a disconnect switch. I will wire the positive to the disconnect switch and run the PDB off of the positive so it's always juiced. The switch will kill the power to the RF harness, so how do I get HAAT power to the clock & GPS?

The answer depends on how you plan to use the master disconnect. If only for maintenance and long term storage (my reasons) I'm not concerned if the clock stops or the GPS takes a little longer to acquire the first time back on. So I'm OK with it wired that way.

If you're planning to use the disconnect more frequently, there are jumper kits that keep current flowing for low draw purposes even with the switch open. Like this one from Breeze. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/keep-alive-memory-jumper-kit/. I'm personally not a fan of that approach. Mostly because I don't use the switch that way. Plus I don't like blowing a fuse if I forget to turn the switch back on. But it's an option.
richtersand
03-17-2021, 02:30 PM
The answer depends on how you plan to use the master disconnect. If only for maintenance and long term storage (my reasons) I'm not concerned if the clock stops or the GPS takes a little longer to acquire the first time back on. So I'm OK with it wired that way.

If you're planning to use the disconnect more frequently, there are jumper kits that keep current flowing for low draw purposes even with the switch open. Like this one from Breeze. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/keep-alive-memory-jumper-kit/. I'm personally not a fan of that approach. Mostly because I don't use the switch that way. Plus I don't like blowing a fuse if I forget to turn the switch back on. But it's an option.

Good point, thanks Paul. I don't plan to disconnect frequently either....