New Ignition Switch?

[Blitzboy54]

I sent a couple of PM’s to some builders because I was confused. I was expecting the same branded key and ignition that I have seen on all the other builds. What came with my kit has a galvanized finish that I don't think is right for a roadster.

143985

It’s not the end of the world and fortunately switches are relatively cheap. Papa pointed out (I think he’s right) that supply’s are tight right now so maybe they went with whatever they could get. I will be getting something aftermarket if this is what they offer now. Maybe it was a mistake.

Anyone else get this switch?

I emailed FFR and let you know.

[edwardb]

I received that same generic switch with my truck kit a couple months ago. I too wasn't impressed. The nice shiny switches from before with the Factory Five logo keys looked a lot nicer. I suspect a supply issue as well, but haven't questioned it. Fortunately there are lots of choices on the market that look better and aren't expensive. Just hate to replace perfectly good parts. :(

[RoadRacer]

I didn't use mine if anyone wants it. Has the black FFR branded keys (mine is from a hotrod kit if that makes a difference)

[sold now]

[richtersand]

Yeah I got the same. Agree it was pretty out of place with the rest of the shiny stuff on the dash. Would love to see links of what others are considering. I’ll poke around online tonight too.

[Blitzboy54]

Papa sent me these links , I’m going to use Roadracer’s unused older one, let us know what you find.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/735

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-420356-1-Position-Acc-Off-Ign/dp/B0082AMQ02/ref=sr_1_10?crid=F42V3DQJ4YZD&dchild=1&keywords=4+position+ignition+switch&qid=1615240366&sprefix=4+position+ignition%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-10

[P100DHG]

This is interesting because the only reason I went with a keyed ignition switch over a custom push button setup on my coupe was for the Factory Five key. Since I had customized everything else I figured it would be a cool nod to FFR. I guess their new rarity might make them more desirable... though I bet there are tons out there that go unused in favor of push button setups.

[frankeeski]

I use this one for the reliability. High quality and less expensive than the F5R option, especially when you factor in the high F5R shipping rates.

https://www.amazon.com/POLLAK-31-180P-Pollak-Ignition-Switch/dp/B004BTFIZS

[michael everson]

I too was pretty disappointed with the new FFR ignitions. I have been scouring the internet to find where they were sourcing them. No luck.
Mike

[GFX2043mtu]

I did not like the FFR switch either. I went with one from a 1965 mustang as I always liked the classic look of them. It makes the car look much more finished to me. Plus they are easy to install, reliable, re-keyable, and use vintage Ford keys. https://www.cjponyparts.com/install-mustang-scott-drake-ignition-switch-assembly-1965-1966.

[nuhale]

x2 on the 65 mustang from Scott Drake. You have to buy the 1. ignition 2. Tension mount 3. Bezel 4. Lock Core 5. wiring pig.

I have #1, 2 & 4 if anyone is interested but not Scott Drake brand. PM me.

[Joel Hauser]

Hey, I didn't even get an ignition switch with my basic kit! I just hot wire my car when it's time to go.
Just kidding. I bought a cheap 3 post ignition switch at NAPA. It's a little sticky, and I have to remember to turn it a little counter clockwise to get out of the start position, but that's ok. I pretend it's just "vintage". Back in the "60's my parents owned a Studebaker with a similarly temperamental switch.

[Erik W. Treves]

ok whew - that's what I am seeing as well

[weendoggy]

I sent a couple of PM’s to some builders because I was confused. I was expecting the same branded key and ignition that I have seen on all the other builds. What came with my kit has a galvanized finish that I don't think is right for a roadster.

143985

It’s not the end of the world and fortunately switches are relatively cheap. Papa pointed out (I think he’s right) that supply’s are tight right now so maybe they went with whatever they could get. I will be getting something aftermarket if this is what they offer now. Maybe it was a mistake.

Anyone else get this switch?

I emailed FFR and let you know.

That's an OEM F5 MKI switch! Collector item for sure. :)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well if nothing else the change of switch will open up the pool of keys! There aren't a lot of key combinations with the "5" branded switches. On at least 3 occasions I have been able to start 2 of the cars that I've had in the shop with the same key and one time I was able to use the same key for 3! A few years ago at the London show we needed to move a friend's car and he was nowhere to be found but we hit the jackpot after trying 2 or 3 others! Of course everyone already knows about the hood and trunk locks, right? ;)

Jeff

[AC Bill]

There was a period of time a few years back when builders were having issues with the supplied ignition switch.
I never had a problem with mine, mind you, but it looked a lot like the one pictured, other then the cap on mine is a shiny chrome, and has the FFR logo'ed key. Maybe FFR switched switches, to avoid the problems?:)

[richtersand]

I did not like the FFR switch either. I went with one from a 1965 mustang as I always liked the classic look of them. It makes the car look much more finished to me. Plus they are easy to install, reliable, re-keyable, and use vintage Ford keys. https://www.cjponyparts.com/install-mustang-scott-drake-ignition-switch-assembly-1965-1966.

Bad @$$!

I bought the mustang one with the bezel kit so I can have the matching ignition and headlight bezel. Thanks for sharing.

[Blitzboy54]

I got the following response:

Evening Jesse,

Unfortunately FFR lost our vendor/manufacturer of the black fobbed FFR logo keys/ignition and had to source a variable option rather quickly and ended up with what we currently have. Our engineers are working on a replacement solution as quickly as possible.

Our apologies for any inconveniences.

[richtersand]

Picked up the 65 mustang bezels and ignition. Love them, super high quality and I think matching set is going to look awesome.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144344&d=1615673190

[Flip Smiley]

I am changing over to all vintage 1965 Mustang headlight switch, bezel, shaft and knob. Does anyone know if there is an OEM style connector plug “pig tail” to fit the stock ‘65 headlight switch available? Or will I just need to use flag connectors and wire direct to the switch? If you have part # and supplier I would appreciate it.
Best regards, Flip

[nuhale]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCN30I8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There is a cheaper one on amazon. DO NOT BUY. I ended up buying 2 of them and both had a short in the over molded part.

[Flip Smiley]

nuhal, thanks for the heads up on the ignition pigtail. I am looking for the headlight pigtail connector for ‘65 Mustang OEM.
Flip

[richtersand]

I am changing over to all vintage 1965 Mustang headlight switch, bezel, shaft and knob. Does anyone know if there is an OEM style connector plug “pig tail” to fit the stock ‘65 headlight switch available? Or will I just need to use flag connectors and wire direct to the switch? If you have part # and supplier I would appreciate it.
Best regards, Flip

Here’s the one I bought (https://www.cjponyparts.com/ignition-switch-wiring-pigtail-mustang-1965-1966/p/HW2907/?utm_source=Pony&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=OrderConfirmation&lac_guid=8ef5632c-d281-eb11-8358-0050568b5164)

[Flip Smiley]

Sorry for the confusion, but I am not looking for the ignition switch pigtail. I am looking for the headlight switch connector or pigtail.
Thanks, Flip

[nuhale]

nuhal, thanks for the heads up on the ignition pigtail. I am looking for the headlight pigtail connector for ‘65 Mustang OEM.
Flip

Does the Ron Francis connector not fit... it should.

[Flip Smiley]

I was under the impression that the RF fit the F5 supplied GM style switch? I have the Ford style ‘65 vintage switch and 1990 diet harness.
Thanks, Flip

[Raddksn]

I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but is anybody using a keyless option? something like a fob you have in your pocket, with an enable switch and starter pushbutton on the dash!

[Quincy]

There are a few threads about push button start. Here is one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33154-Coyote-engine-builds-key-start-or-push-button-start

[Lickity-Split]

That vintage Mustang ignition switch really gives the car a professional factory finished appearance. No "kit car" look there.

I'm going to get one of those myself. Thanks for bringing it to our attention!

[richtersand]

Sorry for the confusion, but I am not looking for the ignition switch pigtail. I am looking for the headlight switch connector or pigtail.
Thanks, Flip

Sorry about that. I'm using the stock RF headlight, so already wired into the RF harness...

[Hacksaw84]

I went with the 60s mustang one too. Had the bezel powder coated to match the rest of dash.

https://restorationpartssource.com/store/ignition-switch-1964-66-mustang-restoration-parts-source-details.html

144711

[GFX2043mtu]

If you use a mustang light switch kick the wires over to flag terminals and be done with it. They are plenty secure and won’t just fall off as long as you get good ones from a place like dell city. Glad to hear people like the mustang switch. I wish FFR would just include it in the kit, as they look much better and are reliable.

[Flip Smiley]

GFX2043mtu, I think you are correct. I am going to go with flag connectors and be done with it. Should work just fine.
Best regards, Fip

[Skip]

Does the Mustang switch handle the current with a Ron Francis wiring harness or are relays needed?

The Mustang switch looks like one of the better options especially with the other, matching bezels.

[GFX2043mtu]

No relays needed. Just wire it to the Francis harness and go.

[BrewCityCobra]

I sent a couple of PM’s to some builders because I was confused. I was expecting the same branded key and ignition that I have seen on all the other builds. What came with my kit has a galvanized finish that I don't think is right for a roadster.

143985

It’s not the end of the world and fortunately switches are relatively cheap. Papa pointed out (I think he’s right) that supply’s are tight right now so maybe they went with whatever they could get. I will be getting something aftermarket if this is what they offer now. Maybe it was a mistake.

Anyone else get this switch?

I emailed FFR and let you know.

Funny you bring this up because, I too, was a bit disappointed by the lack of chrome finish on the starter switch and generic keys. I always thought the FFR keys were a nice touch.

Oh well, I was on the fence about doing some kind of keyless / push-button start system and this kind of pushes me a bit in that direction. Too bad.

[Souleman]

Yeah...received my kit Oct '22 and still had the disappointing ignition. Hence while I'm piling on this thread and now hunting for something better...anything. Even a simple shiny bezel would be helpful. So far the mustang may be the winner...not done looking yet though. Anyone got any new updates to add?

[Souleman]

Nuhale mentioned..."You have to buy the 1. ignition 2. Tension mount 3. Bezel 4. Lock Core 5. wiring pig" I've managed to find everything but the tension mount. Is that the ignition spacer that originally came with the 65 mustang switch, or is it something else? I'm starting to lean towards the Ron Francis option as it is becoming much easier and out right cheaper. If picking a RF, any preference between the IS-08 or IS-06?

[Papa]

I ended up going with a Cole Hersee switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9XPNC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works perfectly and is much better quality than the FFR switch. I also like that the switch can accommodate various dash thicknesses. The FFR switch's fixed depth was too shallow for a clean finished look with the FFR padded dash that I have in my car.

[i.e.427]

For our money or our customer's The Pollack 31-180P is what we use. Automotive style key and 4 position The bezel on it also looks nice.

https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&hs=eUp&sca_esv=573502981&sxsrf=AM9HkKm3cZu-50nQ2w6d42B31t7Z_xjFaw:1697315032339&q=Pollak+31-180P&tbm=shop&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwit8Mucr_aBAxUgBUQIHcPuDbAQ0pQJegQIDBAB&biw=1226&bih=900&dpr=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191150&d=1697315258

[edwardb]

X2 or whatever on the Pollack switch. That's what I put in my truck build. Price is right. Seems very solid. Looks decent. Does have Chevrolet styled rectangular keys. :( I'm sure something else could be cut if they really bother you.

[dbo_texas]

For those that used the 65 Mustang Ignition, here is the pinout I found in the Painless Wiring Harness instructions. (https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/20120.pdf)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191230&d=1697477626

On the pigtail linked to above, how do those map over to the RF Harness (I haven't gotten that far yet)? I bought the pigtail from CJ Pony.

[maclonchas]

Darryl.

Fairly straight forward

Wire #919 is the lt Blue- Ign Sw wire to solenoid or via clutch safety switch
Wire #933 is the IGN Orange wire to fuse block
Wire #932 is the BRN ACC wire to fuse block
Wire #934 is the Red IGN wire from Solenoid or Bus Bar/ Master Disconnect

Hope this helps

[dbo_texas]

Any idea if the pigtail wires for this switch can handle the current coming from the RF harness? I saw on TedG's (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42435-Ted-G-s-427-Cobra-Build-10333&p=511970&viewfull=1#post511970) build that he added relays. Just wondering if that is necessary with this ignition switch.

[rich grsc]

Wire it like maclonchas has it, no need for any relays

[Lidodrip]

Any idea if the pigtail wires for this switch can handle the current coming from the RF harness? I saw on TedG's (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42435-Ted-G-s-427-Cobra-Build-10333&p=511970&viewfull=1#post511970) build that he added relays. Just wondering if that is necessary with this ignition switch.

I have the same ignition switch and pigtail, no relays needed.

James

[phils88gt]

I used the Lucas switch. Am I the only one?

Phil