BeePea's Build Thread! - Heater Question

[BeePea]

Hello Everyone!

With my kit being loaded on to Stewart's truck today I decided it was time to officially kick off my build thread!

I ordered my kit on 10/30, was finished on 2/6 (ish) and shipped out 3/1. Stewart says 10-14 days delivery (2nd to last stop), so fingers crossed for 3/10!

Coming is:

Complete kit
Powdercoated chassis
Leather seats
Body cutouts
Power steering
IRS
GPS gauges
18 inch Halibrand wheels
Wind wings
Sun visors
Wiper kit
Brake duct wire mesh
Heater
Chrome roll bars (keeping my passenger alive too!)
Side louvers
Dash support
IRS center section and spindles


Pretty sure I am going to go with a Forte 363W but haven't landed that plane quite yet, whatever I go with it will be EFI.

Additional parts I need to order still:

Front battery mounting kit
Radiator fan shroud
LED exterior lighting
Cockpit storage behind seats
Breeze seat mounts
Drop trunk
Auto shutoff turn signal


Additional parts I am considering:

Push button start
Triple master cylinder reservoirs
Bigger fan
Quick release steering wheel
Mechanical throttle linkage


I would love the forum to spend some of my money and tell me anything I may have missed and any pros/cons to my consideration list.

Thanks all and I'll see you all soon!

BP

[BadAsp427]

Welcome to the madness we call fun!!! Mechanical Throttle Linkage all the way.... I started out with the FFR Cable, upgraded to the Locar Cable and then built/installed a mechanical... Night and Day difference. And now is the time to do that if your going to, not after the engine is in. Unless you really like the look of the dash support, you may find you don't use it. I use my heater and heated seats all the time. The heated seats are more therapeutic than anything. Depending on what your plans are, you may want to think about cruise control. I use mine all the time out on the highway... keeps me under 100... Again, Welcome!

[BeePea]

Welcome to the madness we call fun!!! Mechanical Throttle Linkage all the way.... I started out with the FFR Cable, upgraded to the Locar Cable and then built/installed a mechanical... Night and Day difference. And now is the time to do that if your going to, not after the engine is in. Unless you really like the look of the dash support, you may find you don't use it. I use my heater and heated seats all the time. The heated seats are more therapeutic than anything. Depending on what your plans are, you may want to think about cruise control. I use mine all the time out on the highway... keeps me under 100... Again, Welcome!

I forgot to mention the heated seats, that is a must for me and will be getting those. Thanks for the throttle linkage callout, good to know.

The dash support is an interesting topic, I was thinking of wrapping the three sides with sheet metal and then cutting out a middle rectangle that I can pivot to flip 180 degrees. This would let me add a small tablet to the call for maps directions but be able to flip it around when not in use to keep it looking more classic.

[edwardb]

Congrats! Let the fun begin. The stock cooling fan works fine with a shroud. Which you have listed. Even more especially because the area you live in isn't a particularly hot climate.

[BeePea]

Congrats! Let the fun begin. The stock cooling fan works fine with a shroud. Which you have listed. Even more especially because the area you live in isn't a particularly hot climate.

Good to know! No, we don't get heat here in Seattle, at best 5 days a year hovering around 90 degrees.

[Blitzboy54]

Both our cars are in the same truck. I spoke to Stewart today and he’ll be here most likely Wednesday afternoon or Thursday morning. I’m the second stop. I can try to sneak a picture and send it to you if you want. Might be able to see it through the other cars.

Either way congrats and look forward to following along with your build.

[BeePea]

Both our cars are in the same truck. I spoke to Stewart today and he’ll be here most likely Wednesday afternoon or Thursday morning. I’m the second stop. I can try to sneak a picture and send it to you if you want. Might be able to see it through the other cars.

Either way congrats and look forward to following along with your build.

Thanks Blitz, I appreciate it! I'll be following yours as well with us being truck buddies!

[D Stand]

I forgot to mention the heated seats, that is a must for me and will be getting those. Thanks for the throttle linkage callout, good to know.

The dash support is an interesting topic, I was thinking of wrapping the three sides with sheet metal and then cutting out a middle rectangle that I can pivot to flip 180 degrees. This would let me add a small tablet to the call for maps directions but be able to flip it around when not in use to keep it looking more classic.


Great to hear that you kit is almost here! X2 for the mechanical linkage. I have not purchased this yet but I have heard good things about the Russ Thompson throttle petal as well. If you are thinking of building a box in your center console, I would not buy the dash support. I am up in Bothell and just finished my center console. I tried using the dash support and wrapping it with sheet metal but just ended up starting from scratch. So I have a center support if you want it! I relocated the fuse panel to the center early on so mine is to hide it and giving me a spot to set my phone. A few pictures for some ideas for you. Sorry for the sideways photos, I have not figured out how to flip them..... 143589143588

[Kmcallahan]

Welcome to the club. You will enjoy the madness!! LOL

[BeePea]

Great to hear that you kit is almost here! X2 for the mechanical linkage. I have not purchased this yet but I have heard good things about the Russ Thompson throttle petal as well. If you are thinking of building a box in your center console, I would not buy the dash support. I am up in Bothell and just finished my center console. I tried using the dash support and wrapping it with sheet metal but just ended up starting from scratch. So I have a center support if you want it! I relocated the fuse panel to the center early on so mine is to hide it and giving me a spot to set my phone. A few pictures for some ideas for you. Sorry for the sideways photos, I have not figured out how to flip them..... 143589143588

Thanks D, I'll need to come check out your build here soon!

[BeePea]

Does anyone know how long the Wildwood brakes take to ship? With my completion date of 2/6 I figured I would have received them by now.

[Fman]

Congrats on the order! Nothing better than a FFR truck pulling up to your house!

Mike Forte sells a really nice throttle linkage setup, definitely worth checking out. Not sure if your going hydraulic or cable for clutch but Mike also sells a hydraulic setup. The FFR fan they supply is rated at 2180 CFM if you want to add even more cooling power look into the 3000 CFM flex a lite wave puller. It pulls more air, is quieter than the FFR fan and uses about the same amp draw. I have a 427 and wanted max cooling power so I opted for the 3000 CFM fan. Just another option...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-238

Good luck with the build! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

[edwardb]

Does anyone know how long the Wildwood brakes take to ship? With my completion date of 2/6 I figured I would have received them by now.

It's Wilwood and like many suppliers is experiencing longer than usual lead times. In the past, they often beat the Stewart delivery. But doesn't look like it now. Dave Smith specifically mentioned Wilwood in a video yesterday. I don't remember the exact quote but it was around double (or more) their usual lead time. Your contact at Factory Five should be able to confirm they're on order and the approximate promise date. The overall part situation for new builds is just plain tough right now. Dave said as much yesterday.

[Blitzboy54]

It's Wilwood and like many suppliers is experiencing longer than usual lead times. In the past, they often beat the Stewart delivery. But doesn't look like it now. Dave Smith specifically mentioned Wilwood in a video yesterday. I don't remember the exact quote but it was around double (or more) their usual lead time. Your contact at Factory Five should be able to confirm they're on order and the approximate promise date. The overall part situation for new builds is just plain tough right now. Dave said as much yesterday.


I called them late February. They can’t find our shipments because they are ordered by FFR, but as an exercise he looked at lead times as if they were ordered that day. I gave him the kit number and he basically said if they were ordered on 2/26 you could expect deliver last week in March/first week in April. I’m guessing you will have them in a week or two.

[BeePea]

It's Wilwood and like many suppliers is experiencing longer than usual lead times. In the past, they often beat the Stewart delivery. But doesn't look like it now. Dave Smith specifically mentioned Wilwood in a video yesterday. I don't remember the exact quote but it was around double (or more) their usual lead time. Your contact at Factory Five should be able to confirm they're on order and the approximate promise date. The overall part situation for new builds is just plain tough right now. Dave said as much yesterday.

Good info on the video, just watched it, didn't know it was out there. And yes, I know it's Wilwood, but apparently the autocorrect on my phone does not!

[John Ibele]

Hey - welcome and looking forward to seeing your build unfold. It looks like you have a solid plan, and yes, you'll find plenty of ideas here to spend more money along the way.

Another dash support comment. Lots of ways to go at this. I have 3 brackets and a grab rail providing support for the bottom edge of the dash, and the dash is very, very solid. Brackets can be easily fabbed from 0.040" 6061 with a cheapie press brake or even a hand seamer in a pinch. I'm currently working on a console storage box, and I'm not planning on tying it into the dash to provide support - it just doesn't need it. I also used an additional thickness of aluminum behind the dash as others have done, and I would do that again in a heartbeat. Gives the dash a very solid feel. Again, welcome!

[JB in NOVA]

Sounds like you've done your homework. Great build plan! Please post lots of pics.

[460.465USMC]

Welcome, BeaPea! Great to see another Washington state builder!

[TDH]

Pretty sure my car is on the same load as yours :). I will be starting my build thread soon as well. I live in socal so not sure where on the stop train I am at. Will definitely be following your build!

[Blitzboy54]

So I learned today that they can put up to 10 kits on the Stewart truck. Most have to be roadsters to pull it off but they can do it. So that's your fun fact for the day. I tried to take a picture of your car but it was really back there. This was the best I could do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143685&d=1614816633

[txboiler]

Stewart is awesome. That was the same view I had about 2 months ago. Who was your driver?

[NYMike]

I called them late February. They can’t find our shipments because they are ordered by FFR, but as an exercise he looked at lead times as if they were ordered that day. I gave him the kit number and he basically said if they were ordered on 2/26 you could expect deliver last week in March/first week in April. I’m guessing you will have them in a week or two.

I emailed with Dave Brigham at FFR last week about this and some other POL parts and as you guys said Wilwood is really backed up. My completion date was 2/13 and he said I should expect to see mine sometime in April.

[BeePea]

So I learned today that they can put up to 10 kits on the Stewart truck. Most have to be roadsters to pull it off but they can do it. So that's your fun fact for the day. I tried to take a picture of your car but it was really back there. This was the best I could do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143685&d=1614816633

That might be me back there! (But I highly doubt it). Thanks for trying and congrats on your delivery!!

[BeePea]

I emailed with Dave Brigham at FFR last week about this and some other POL parts and as you guys said Wilwood is really backed up. My completion date was 2/13 and he said I should expect to see mine sometime in April.

Interesting, good to know, thank you!

[Blitzboy54]

Sorry I just saw this. After thinking about it I never got his name. Shame on me actually. Hopefully BeePea picks up my slack and makes a more proper introduction

[BeePea]

Sorry I just saw this. After thinking about it I never got his name. Shame on me actually. Hopefully BeePea picks up my slack and makes a more proper introduction

Will do!

[BeePea]

While I wait for my delivery (hopefully this week!) I decided to experiment with some sheet metal paint options, figured better to experiment on fake metal vs the real stuff.

I knew I wasn't going to powdercoat due to cost, so I wanted to find a painting alternative. Read decent things here about the Rustoleum Hammered products so thought I would give it a try. Without primer I painted the bare steel with a single coat of black hammered. This came out okay but kind of blotchy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143976&d=1615237474

I then tried my hand with the silver hammered paint, for this one I used much more to get away from the blotchy look previously, but lesson learned, don't use too much at once or it just turns into a sea of paint.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143979&d=1615237507

I went to the store and picked up some bedliner spray and rustoleum black primer. The bedliner spray was a disaster, first when I took the cap off I ripped off the nozzle, I pushed it back on and held it with force to get it to somewhat work, what came out was a goopy mess. Not sure if that was the nozzle or the liner in general, but I did not care for it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143975&d=1615237466

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143974&d=1615237422

For the moment of glory, I leveraged the backside of one of the pieces I used already, this had drippings from the previous spraying on the other side and I was curious of how it would handle primer and two coats of black hammered. To my enjoyment I think it came out great. On the top and bottom edges you can see the imperfections slightly, but they were covered up fairly well all things considered. A close up of the middle really shows it working well. It also had a better feel to it, more dense. I sprayed the primer, then waited an hour, then black hammered, waited an hour+, then second coat of black hammered.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143978&d=1615237497

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143977&d=1615237483

[Fman]

Just a heads up when you paint aluminum even if you primer, prep, etc... it will easily chip. It can always be touched up but it will not even be close to what the powder coat process can withstand. Definitely cheaper to DIY paint but you have to be realistic of what kind of durability you will get with spray paint.

That last sample looks nice!:)

[BeePea]

Just a heads up when you paint aluminum even if you primer, prep, etc... it will easily chip. It can always be touched up but it will not even be close to what the powder coat process can withstand. Definitely cheaper to DIY paint but you have to be realistic of what kind of durability you will get with spray paint.

That last sample looks nice!:)

I agree, I also have some steel wool to scratch up the panel first, that could help for grip. Going to also hit my best sample with a hammer tonight to see how it holds up.

[NYMike]

That last sample looks great! We are using silver Rustoleum hammered on our panels and are happy with what we have gotten so far with the F panels. The paint didnt flake or peel on the edges after we had to trim the panels, and I also scratched one when I slipped with the rivet gun and it didn't go all the way through, just to the primer. Not sure how we are going to touch it up yet, but it doesnt stand out too much since its pretty close to the aluminum color. We orbital sanded the panels, sprayed with brake clean and wiped with lint free rag(didn't have acetone), did 2 coats of Rustoleum aluminum primer, and then 2 coats of the hammered paint. How did your hammer test hold up?

[BeePea]

Big day today! At 8am Eric drove up with his beautiful Factory Five truck and unloaded #9997 into my possession. Pics to come but after 6.5 hours of inventory I'm tired. Inventory wasn't bad, only missing a few minor things, plus missing a whole box (15). POL list is quite long, like others. Can't wait to get back to it tomorrow!

Fedex driver stopped and said it was bad-a$$ before Eric even got back to his truck after my delivery. Then the dominoes driver stopped by and I had to give him a tour.

[D Stand]

Congrats!!

[GTBradley]

Big day today! At 8am Eric drove up with his beautiful Factory Five truck and unloaded #9997 into my possession. Pics to come but after 6.5 hours of inventory I'm tired. Inventory wasn't bad, only missing a few minor things, plus missing a whole box (15). POL list is quite long, like others. Can't wait to get back to it tomorrow!

Fedex driver stopped and said it was bad-a$$ before Eric even got back to his truck after my delivery. Then the dominoes driver stopped by and I had to give him a tour.
Congrats! Get used to the tours, they’ll never end. I’ve found the that the trick is to figure what kind of fan they are first and then tailor the tour to them personally.

[Blitzboy54]

Big day today! At 8am Eric drove up with his beautiful Factory Five truck and unloaded #9997 into my possession. Pics to come but after 6.5 hours of inventory I'm tired. Inventory wasn't bad, only missing a few minor things, plus missing a whole box (15). POL list is quite long, like others. Can't wait to get back to it tomorrow!

Fedex driver stopped and said it was bad-a$$ before Eric even got back to his truck after my delivery. Then the dominoes driver stopped by and I had to give him a tour.

YES! Eric. That guy was great. Congratulations!!!

[BeePea]

The manual states the front shocks are shorter than the rears by 2.5 inches, but mine are all the same length, did I read the manual wrong or does this go on my inventory list?

[Fman]

Mine were also all the same length, do you have IRS? also dont forget to put the zip ties on top collar (ask me how I know), they will help keep everything aligned when you jack up the wheel and release pressure.

[JB in NOVA]

The manual states the front shocks are shorter than the rears by 2.5 inches, but mine are all the same length, did I read the manual wrong or does this go on my inventory list?

Same as FMan -- mine were all the same size.

[BeePea]

Yes to IRS, thanks for the confirmation!

[BeePea]

As mentioned above, Eric at Stewart arrived at 8am and we proceeded to unload. Due to the town homes having a narrow street we unloaded at the front of the complex and pushed the cart the 50 or so yards.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144453&d=1615824049

So many boxes! (except for #15, which was MIA)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144452&d=1615824049

Flying car!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144451&d=1615824049

Pushing up the hill
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144450&d=1615824049

Welcome home!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144449&d=1615824049

[BeePea]

With the help of my son and wife we got the body off.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144448&d=1615824049

Did 6.5 hours of inventory (questions on that to come...) then the next day marked and removed all the sheet metal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144447&d=1615824049

Started working on the shocks and ended up injuring my ring finger pretty bad, so now I wait a day or two for that to heal! I'll be painting and mounting my F panels during the healing time.

[John Ibele]

Bummer! That's a shame ... but it does happen. Just not possible to have all the safety routines fine-tuned with activities we don't do on a daily basis, no matter how cautious we try to be.

A few random thoughts about this phase of the build from what I can remember, FWIW:



If you're using rattle can paint, Rustoleum's Comfort Grip (https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/comfort-grip/) was a life saver for me. My desk-job trained fingers literally couldn't keep the spray nozzle button down on some jobs.
You may have read plenty on inventory and finding parts already, and there's plenty out there. I took photos stored in an album on my phone of all the inventory sheets so I could refer to them anywhere. I had the paper copy ready at hand on the work bench, but I also made a copy of each sheet and taped them (with a bit of physical cut / paste) on each box so I could see box content on the front of each box.


Hope you have a fast recovery.

Cheers,

-- John

[BeePea]

Inventory questions:

Is the dash supposed to be curved on the passenger side? Think I've seen this question before but couldn't find it in search.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144463&d=1615839435

I had some misc parts in my box 21/21 where POL items were tossed in that I could use some help identifying.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144464&d=1615839443

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144465&d=1615839455

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144466&d=1615839464

[NYMike]

Congrats on the delivery! Looking good so far! Sorry you got hurt. Hopefully it heals up soon. Unfortunately it seems like that is part of the game for us as well. Its a bit chilly in the garage without heat and I have a few busted knuckles and cuts to show for it.

In your last picture, those are IRS parts for mounting the upper control arm to the spindle. I'm pretty sure the 2 on the left are the 7/8 misalignment spacers and the 2 on the right are the angled mount adapters. Great names aren't they? The number on the bag of bolts looks like those bolts go with the engine mount box. Not sure on the hoses.

What did you end up deciding on the paint?

[John Ibele]

My guesses for the fuel line pic would be


p/n 13900, Flexible fuel line, 1/4” ID, high pressure, 3’
p/n 13932, Flexible fuel line, 5/16” ID, high pressure, 3’
p/n 14494, tank to filter fuel line assembly
p/n 13699, hose clamp (to hold fuel filter to bracket p/n 14495)


Disclaimer: I have an older kit, but that’s my best guess looking at my inventory sheets.

[BeePea]

Hoping folks can check my work, since I am missing parts I just have everything super loose, looking for general "this piece is in the right spot (or not)."

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144627&d=1616011939

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144628&d=1616011954

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144629&d=1616011961

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144630&d=1616011986

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144631&d=1616012001

[Railroad]

On turn buckle type adjusters, as on the upper control arms, have the same amount of threads exposed on each side of the adjuster, when installed. Thank edwardb for this.

[JB in NOVA]

I see you plan to run power steering. Many on the forum advise cutting the sleeves off the rear arms to allow enough room to meet the PS alignment specs. Here's an example. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27330-Unable-to-get-enough-Caster-amp-Camber But of course there's lots of debate about it, so it's really up to you.

[BeePea]

Am I safe to rivet in my Wilwood front drivers panel and the passenger footbox without needing to muck around with them in the future?

[BeePea]

Am I using the wrong pedal box front? Thought I had it right but if I did I would need to drill holes for the pedals to mount.144785

[BeePea]

Am I using the wrong pedal box front? Thought I had it right but if I did I would need to drill holes for the pedals to mount.144785

I think I have the right box, still question around the rivets.

[Blitzboy54]

I think I have the right box, still question around the rivets.

I'm at the same point as you. I'm leaving my cleco"ed until I have to . Once you mount the peddle box I think your committed so mind as well. Obviously I would wait until someone that's done it responds though

[edwardb]

No reason not to rivet in the DS footbox front at this point. You need it in place for the pedal box, steering column, reservoir hoses, brake lines, etc. You'll want to leave the DS top and outside off until the final time you put the body on. But the rest when you're ready. That's the right one for the Wilwood pedal box.

[BeePea]

This weekend I tackled the pedal assembly (waiting for mechanical linkage) and the passenger footbox. This was my first time riveting and it was interesting. I did mark up a panel a bit where the angles got tight but in the end it will be hidden by the body and I shouldn't be worried about it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145021&d=1616511044

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145020&d=1616511044

Any idea how to get some excess silicone off? In the moment I went with a paper towel but it was too late and made more of a mess. Don't want to ruin the paint.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145019&d=1616511044

Here you can see where I dinged it up a bit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145018&d=1616511044

Up next... cut down front upper control arms for power steering and loctite my ball joints.

[BeePea]

Depending on the silicone used. A plastic putty knife and patience. It should peel off. Had the same thing, I ended up doing the same thing as JBNova and switched to black silicone to hide my mistakes a little better after I did my cleanup.

Thanks, I'll try the putty knife tonight. Good call on black silicone, will do that switch as well.

[NYMike]

Looking really good! The black hammer paint looks great.

[BeePea]

Looking really good! The black hammer paint looks great.

Thanks! Been using quite a bit of it... sure takes some time.

[Blitzboy54]

I've been using black silicon and it is amazing. Whatever additives that are in it that make it black also make is incredibly smooth and non sticky. I don't know that I'll every use anything else unless it shows and I have to use white or clear around the house. Try it, you wont regret it.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YOVFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BeePea]

I've been using black silicon and it is amazing. Whatever additives that are in it that make it black also make is incredibly smooth and non sticky. I don't know that I'll every use anything else unless it shows and I have to use white or clear around the house. Try it, you wont regret it.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YOVFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting, thanks for the link. I bought some JB black silicone for RVs, I'll see how I like it and will switch to yours if I don't!

[460.465USMC]

Big day today! At 8am Eric drove up with his beautiful Factory Five truck and unloaded #9997 into my possession. Pics to come but after 6.5 hours of inventory I'm tired. Inventory wasn't bad, only missing a few minor things, plus missing a whole box (15). POL list is quite long, like others. Can't wait to get back to it tomorrow!

Fedex driver stopped and said it was bad-a$$ before Eric even got back to his truck after my delivery. Then the dominoes driver stopped by and I had to give him a tour.

Awesome! An exciting day! The fun begins!

[460.465USMC]

Any idea how to get some excess silicone off? In the moment I went with a paper towel but it was too late and made more of a mess. Don't want to ruin the paint.

From the advice of the forum I started using Goo Gone followed by Windex to clean-up the silicone before it sets up.

[BeePea]

Progress is being made, but slowly!

Fitted and painted the drivers inner footbox and tops. Got my forward firewall last week, so drilled it out for the heater and have it temp installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145318&d=1617051878

I have a little bit of a gap where the diver inner panel comes above the driver top panel, the driver inner panel was an extremely tight fit and to make it work this was the compromise I had to go with. Might end up cutting it off.

Got the differential installed with the help of my son and father-in-law. It was a real pain, three of the four bolts went in without a problem, but the last one was killer. We ended up doing some fancy physics leverage work to get it in the right position. My 12th grade science teacher would be proud. Got the four bolts torqued to 100lbs and marked them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145319&d=1617051888

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145320&d=1617051898

After that I worked on the drop trunk mod, got it all assembled and ready for fitting under the car sometime this week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145321&d=1617051906

Anyone know if I am good to rivet the firewall and driver's inner box in place? I would like to get the heater installed but looks like I need to rivet first.

No POL parts yet, which means no IRS parts. :(

[NYMike]

Looking great! The diff was such a pain to get in for us too. What a battle. I'm curious about finalizing the firewall as well. We've been putting ours off for a while but if its ok to go in for good, then maybe its time for us to finally figure it out.

[Blitzboy54]

I see no reason not to put the firewall in. The manual calls for it pretty early. I goofed up a little by putting my heater in too early but if your passenger foot box is done I think your fine.

[BeePea]

To adjust camber, do you shave down just the independent rods or also the ones attached to the weld point?

[D Stand]

You need to shave all of the parts equally. Both right and left head threads as well as both sides of the coupler.

[Blitzboy54]

One side will be the solid weld side. The other the weld side will be the longer leg so you only need to shave the removable threaded pieces. If you look at my build thread I originally did it wrong. But you can see it in the pic after Jeff corrected me

[BeePea]

You need to shave all of the parts equally. Both right and left head threads as well as both sides of the coupler.

Thank you, I didn't realize it was all four sides!

[edwardb]

Thank you, I didn't realize it was all four sides!

Something isn't computing here. The job here is to shorten the rear threads and adapters to get the desired amount of caster for power steering. The threaded portion will come off the ball joint plate welded on one side and with a pivot on the other side. That's correct and normal. There's no reason to do anything to the front threads or adapters. If that's what you meant.

[BeePea]

Something isn't computing here. The job here is to shorten the rear threads and adapters to get the desired amount of caster for power steering. The threaded portion will come off the ball joint plate welded on one side and with a pivot on the other side. That's correct and normal. There's no reason to do anything to the front threads or adapters. If that's what you meant.

Okay, this makes more sense, I thought it was just one set per side

[D Stand]

I am just up in Bothell if you want to see what I did. Edward is right only on the back adjusters. On my driver side all parts where able to be done on the bench. The passenger side I had to cut one on the car as it was already assembled on the car before I made this mod.

Dale

[BeePea]

I am just up in Bothell if you want to see what I did. Edward is right only on the back adjusters. On my driver side all parts where able to be done on the bench. The passenger side I had to cut one on the car as it was already assembled on the car before I made this mod.

Dale

Sending you a PM Dale

[BeePea]

Updates sans pictures... (for now)

Installed the firewall forward and heater, also installed the inner drivers footbox. The panels take forever for me to do, doing four coats of spray paint per side. For panels not in the engine bay I am cutting some corners by leveraging some satin spray paint with primer built in, that is saving me drying time but I still want to cover all the bare metal with it to protect it.

Installed the drop trunk mod, ran into an issue (my fault) where I installed to too far back, this making the lip of the drop trunk does not meet up with the bottom of the original trunk area. What I ended up doing what shaving off all the aluminum to make a flat wall that drops straight down from the upper trunk level down to the drop trunk, and I will create a vertical piece that joins the two for strength. In the end I think it will look cleaner than it being centered in the trunk floor. Only need to worry about the gas tank access hole lining up, will see that when I mount the tank, and if I need to expand the opening I will.

Currently I am cutting from front upper control arms for the increased camber, nothing too major to report there other than my cuts were as square as I would have liked with the hack saw and I am going to clean them up with the Dremel next.

I did put together the hand brake and really enjoyed it, it was my first real wrenching project on the build and I really look forward to getting my suspension parts are some point so I can keep doing that. Jealous of other members who have already gotten theirs, FFR says 2 more weeks, not sure why I have to keep waiting when others have already got theirs.

My missing box 15 (fuel parts) is scheduled to arrive on Saturday, I will try to get the tank mounted this weekend!

Delivered was my triple chamber reservoir from Scotts Hotrods, time to start thinking about mounting that. Pretty sure I want to do so on the drivers side support bar rather than the footbox or firewall.

[BeePea]

Question for the audience... where do I locate the differential venting hose and hardware?

[NYMike]

Question for the audience... where do I locate the differential venting hose and hardware?

The fitting that goes into the diff should have been in the box with the diff. That's where it was for us. I forget what box the hose was in though. We didn't like how the clip fit the line, so we just used a zip tie to attach the hose to the frame. Not ideal, but should be fine.

[BeePea]

The fitting that goes into the diff should have been in the box with the diff. That's where it was for us. I forget what box the hose was in though. We didn't like how the clip fit the line, so we just used a zip tie to attach the hose to the frame. Not ideal, but should be fine.

I do have the fitting, I was referring to the hose and clamp.

[BeePea]

These ball joints are not going in all the way, as others have experienced. I purchased the Moog version, but now I need to back out the ball joint as I have it in almost all the way, with blue loctite. Any suggestions on how I can remove this ball joint?

[Railroad]

I have a large bench vice. I clamped the ball joint in the vice and used the control arm as the lever.
If that is not enough leverage, you might put a hoe handle through the control arm.
I did this for installation and did not need the extra leverage.

[BeePea]

I have a large bench vice. I clamped the ball joint in the vice and used the control arm as the lever.
If that is not enough leverage, you might put a hoe handle through the control arm.
I did this for installation and did not need the extra leverage.

I have a smaller vice, and it worked to get it almost all the way in, but now wont go any further, nor can I get it out using the same method. All I do is bend the vice, or break the workbench it's attached to. I think the vice is too small for this kind of pressure. It's a Bessey 3 inch https://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-3-in-Clamp-On-Vise-BV-CO30/205023099

[FLPBFoot]

FYI Autozone has ball joint socket sets they rent out. Put down a deposit and you get it back when you return the socket set. I love free rentals. You may then be able to clamp the control arms in the vice and get better leverage with a long breaker bar and a 3 or 4 foot pipe.

Steve

[BeePea]

FYI Autozone has ball joint socket sets they rent out. Put down a deposit and you get it back when you return the socket set. I love free rentals. You may then be able to clamp the control arms in the vice and get better leverage with a long breaker bar and a 3 or 4 foot pipe.

Steve

Thank you, that's good to know. I was not aware of that.

[BeePea]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

[JB in NOVA]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

Yep, I had the same problem. I replaced those with slightly narrower stainless steel bolts that slid through the retainer rings more easily. You can see one of them in the bottom right of this picture:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145581&d=1617491705

[NYMike]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

Yep. Same problem here as well. Ours were close enough that we were able to thread the bolts through them as if they were tapped. Not ideal but it worked.

[BeePea]

Interesting, thank you both. I need a portal to the local Ace to save me 5 min of driving each way.

Anyone know what the record visits in a day is? I have hit 3, I'm sure there are many more than that.

[NYMike]

Interesting, thank you both. I need a portal to the local Ace to save me 5 min of driving each way.

Anyone know what the record visits in a day is? I have hit 3, I'm sure there are many more than that.

Wouldn't that be nice... Would be a perfect job for a hopefully soon to be completed roadster.

[Blitzboy54]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

Same as the others. Although JB has BY FAR the better solution I reamed the holes with a drill bit to clear out some of the powder coat and re formed the strap hole a bit with a hammer.

I wish I had asked the question because smaller bolts is clearly a better solution.

[egchewy79]

I got a cheap ball joint socket (It's a chrysler 59/64" socket) on amazon for like $20 and used an air impact wrench to remove it. I had a 2' breaker bar waiting on standby just in case. Applying some heat with a torch helps as well. If you run a wire wheel to remove the black coating on the BJ threads it slides in easily.

[BeePea]

Actual updates and not just questions!

Been making good progress on the build. Trying to keep up with Mike and Jessie's build pace, but it's not possible!

Like most, I've been in a tough space with my POL list, limited to no suspension parts and my box 15 (gas tank) was given to the wrong person, so it had to be mailed back to MA, then back over to WA where I am. On the good news front, I got my IRS parts and my box 15 this week, so I am looking forward to completing those parts where I can.

What I've been doing in the meantime...

Picked up a triple reservoir from Summit, fabricated a bracket, and mounted it. At first I wanted to run the hoses behind the bracket to keep it looking clean, but the more I think about it I think maybe it would be better to run them under the reservoir so I can access it later if needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146220&d=1618428836

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146221&d=1618428853

Got my differential vent hose installed with vent cap, still need to clean up some of the POR that broke through my painters tape.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146219&d=1618428821

I've had some real issues with the Mevotech ball joint getting in place, so I picked up the Moog K772 ball joints. I test fit one and it fit so perfect I wanted to cry.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146222&d=1618428872

I now need to take my other UCA and back out the evil Mevotech ball joint (with blue loctite), it took heaven and earth to get it threaded 90% of the way in before it wouldn't go anymore, I can't wait to try and get it back out. Going to look for some loctite remover, leverage a hairdryer, and rent a ball joint socket to try and tackle it all.

Since I've had to wait for a lot of stuff I've been working my panels. It was at this point where I thought it was starting to look like a car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146218&d=1618428814

For some reason the paint didn't come out great on the outer rear panels, but then I remembered that this will all be covered and all I'm doing is protecting the metal at this point.

Drop trunk installed, I did so a little too far back and thus couldn't get the the drop trunk lip over the hole I cut to rivet it in, however I did manager to get it square under the vertical line from the upper trunk, so what I will do is cut out a vertical piece of metal from my firewall and use that as my entire back trunk wall, this will give the appearance that from the upper trunk it will just go straight down to the bottom. (plus it will all be covered in carpet)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146223&d=1618428930

Thank you everyone for reading and providing input as well as answering my questions!

Blake

[Railroad]

Just a caution, the fluid level of the reservoirs needs to higher than your master cylinders.
I cannot see your master cylinders, but most reservoirs usually end up somewhere close to the top square tube.
Nice work on your car.

[BeePea]

Just a caution, the fluid level of the reservoirs needs to higher than your master cylinders.
I cannot see your master cylinders, but most reservoirs usually end up somewhere close to the top square tube.
Nice work on your car.

Thank you, I eyeballed that today and I felt good about it, but I'll confirm it tomorrow to be sure!

[BeePea]

For the life of me I cannot get my knuckles into the lower control arms in my IRS, getting the control arms needed a lot of help from my dead blow hammer, but the knuckle can pivot and it's just not going in. Any suggests would be much appreciated.

[NYMike]

For the life of me I cannot get my knuckles into the lower control arms in my IRS, getting the control arms needed a lot of help from my dead blow hammer, but the knuckle can pivot and it's just not going in. Any suggests would be much appreciated.

We struggled for a while with that and then I got mad and bent the tabs on the lower control arms out a bit with an adjustable wrench. Freaked my dad out and probably not the best thing to do, but it worked and the bolts sucked it back together.

[BeePea]

We struggled for a while with that and then I got mad and bent the tabs on the lower control arms out a bit with an adjustable wrench. Freaked my dad out and probably not the best thing to do, but it worked and the bolts sucked it back together.

For better or worse, that worked!

[Fman]

I had to use a spreader rod on many of the connections, they will pull back together when tightened down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128100&d=1589148151

[BeePea]

Can people check out the drivers IRS side install? All finger tight until I get the okay from you all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146517&d=1618795181

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146518&d=1618795187

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146519&d=1618795194

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146520&d=1618795201

[NYMike]

Looks like ours. You might want to get the hubs installed before you lock everything down. You may not be able to get to the bolts in the back easily with the axle shaft in the way.

[BeePea]

Looks like ours. You might want to get the hubs installed before you lock everything down. You may not be able to get to the bolts in the back easily with the axle shaft in the way.

Thanks for the tip, I had stud issues on the spindle today, need to get the hardware I've seen posted here, then I'll install the spindle/hub

[BeePea]

Am I using the wrong hardware here? I cannot get this in and I'm using the forum tricks I saw here previously. It just spins out of my vice when I try to crank it down to pull it through.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146568&d=1618871285

[NYMike]

They're really tough to draw in like the manual suggests. We tried it and gave up and used a hydraulic press. Do you have a piece of pipe or a deep socket that can fit over the threaded portion of the stud? Not sure if it will be strong enough but you might be able to use your vice to squeeze the studs in against the pipe like a press. This is how we set up ours.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144289&d=1615609267

[D Stand]

146572
Am I using the wrong hardware here? I cannot get this in and I'm using the forum tricks I saw here previously. It just spins out of my vice when I try to crank it down to pull it through.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146568&d=1618871285 If you want to bring your parts up here to Bothell, I would gladly help you press them in.

Dale

[edwardb]

I've done a number of these. I assume you're using a socket wrench to turn the nut and draw them in? I tried that once. When I applied enough pressure to where I thought it would move, came out of the vise every time. Didn't matter how tight I tried to make it and at some point I don't like messing up parts in a vise. I did two things that worked for me: (1) Liberally coated the washers and nuts with grease. Plain old chassis grease works fine. (2) Used an air impact wrench. Doesn't have to be in the vise in fact works better if you don't. I just push it into a couple of rags holding by hand and the impact wrench pulls them right in. Short of that, I'd get them pressed in. Can't go wrong that way.

[BeePea]

Thanks everyone for the replies and confirming I'm not crazy. Going up to D Stands place here soon to talk shop and get these guys installed.

[jiriza84641]

Looks good!

[BeePea]

Updates!

Got the IRS fully installed, thanks to the forum for help there! All bolts are torqued, I did my best on the four bolts from the spindle to the hub, space was limited there.

If folks recall, I had gotten the FFR supplied ball joint into its socket about 85% of the way (with blue thread locker), and getting to that 85% was a real struggle. Well I went and bought the Moog ball joints and tested it on my open socket and it went in like butter, now to remove the other ball joint. I ended up buying from Amazon a ball joint socked (local auto stores did not have them to rent) and between it, two vices, and my torque wrench, I was able to free it from the socket. Used a paper towel to wipe the inside threads clean, dropped the Moog ball joint in and it went in without a problem. Yay!

Went over and met D Stand, he lives about 30 min away and we talked Cobra shop for a bit, he was able to help me press my studs into the hubs, was much appreciated for the help and we had a good chat about his build and what he has learned.

I've mounted the rear Wilwoods and put all the pieces together, things looked to fit fine with shims, am I missing something here or is this normal? I've taken it all apart again and just put in the red threadlocker to mount the hat to the rotor. I'll give that a day to dry (overkill I know) then do they safety wire (also overkill, I know).

I've got all my main panels done (prepped, fitted, drilled, and painted) and am getting close to permanently attaching the trunk metal so that I can mount the gas tank. Notorious JK trunk mod installed as well. In the tank is the Holley 340 in-tank fuel punk from Forte.

Also got my front battery mount, that is being painted before install, and I ordered a set of Hot Rod Fuel lines, and fittings, as well as the Breeze radiator products and offset bushings for the powersteering rack.

Lots of progress and I'm feeling good about where I'm at!

[BeePea]

I forgot to ask, I need a third 90 degree barbed fitting for my triple reservoir, where I can pick one up? On a similar note, do people normally connect at the bottom of the reservoir so it can be maintained with the body on, or behind it for ease of connection to the footbox and cleaner lines?

[toadster]

I forgot to ask, I need a third 90 degree barbed fitting for my triple reservoir, where I can pick one up? On a similar note, do people normally connect at the bottom of the reservoir so it can be maintained with the body on, or behind it for ease of connection to the footbox and cleaner lines?

I sometimes get parts from Summit, but recently Amazon has had some good deals and it shows up in a day, depending on the size that you need :)

Brass Hose Barb Fitting, 90 Degree Male Elbow, 3/8" Hose ID x 1/8" NPT Male, 2pcs (https://amzn.to/2S72T6N)

my connections are on the bottom of the reservoir, I used the 90-deg parts to keep the lines from getting too close to heat sources

[BeePea]

I sometimes get parts from Summit, but recently Amazon has had some good deals and it shows up in a day, depending on the size that you need :)

Brass Hose Barb Fitting, 90 Degree Male Elbow, 3/8" Hose ID x 1/8" NPT Male, 2pcs (https://amzn.to/2S72T6N)

my connections are on the bottom of the reservoir, I used the 90-deg parts to keep the lines from getting too close to heat sources

ordered, thank you!

[Blitzboy54]

I've mounted the rear Wilwoods and put all the pieces together, things looked to fit fine with shims, am I missing something here or is this normal? I've taken it all apart again and just put in the red threadlocker to mount the hat to the rotor. I'll give that a day to dry (overkill I know) then do they safety wire (also overkill, I know).

Shims are definitely normal. If you add a picture I can take a look, but I used them to get my calipers centered in the back

[BeePea]

Shims are definitely normal. If you add a picture I can take a look, but I used them to get my calipers centered in the back

Here is my caliper without shims mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147089&d=1619712759

[BeePea]

I ended up adding one set of shims to the caliper mounting posts and that did help the rotor glide when turned

[jiriza84641]

I added shims to raise the caliper, it was hitting the rotor when turning it by hand. it looks like you won't need the shims, so take another look at it and turn rotor by hand to verify you have no drag!!

[Blitzboy54]

The pic they look slightly out of center. Once shim is probably right

[BeePea]

no drag on the brake calipers, just the parking break, which the instructions say is the way to go? Seems odd to me, I must be missing something. Should I install the parking brake cables before or after the engine/trans install? Or does it not matter?

[BeePea]

Another question, should I try to adjust my rear camber now, or is that something to wait on for me to get the car off the jack stands and on the ground?

[edwardb]

Another question, should I try to adjust my rear camber now, or is that something to wait on for me to get the car off the jack stands and on the ground?

Does Factory Five have some starting dimensions in the manual? (I don't remember plus mine are not very new.) If so, use those for starters. But beyond that, no, don't try to adjust. Means very little unless you're on the ground at ride height. Same for the front BTW.

[BeePea]

Does Factory Five have some starting dimensions in the manual? (I don't remember plus mine are not very new.) If so, use those for starters. But beyond that, no, don't try to adjust. Means very little unless you're on the ground at ride height. Same for the front BTW.

Got it, I'll double check for initial alignment. What about the parking brake cables, should those go in now, or after the engine/trans install? Maybe it doesn't matter?

[edwardb]

Got it, I'll double check for initial alignment. What about the parking brake cables, should those go in now, or after the engine/trans install? Maybe it doesn't matter?

Technically doesn't matter. But probably a little easier before the engine/trans is in place. Easier to hook up the cables at the handle. Gets pretty tight in the tunnel with the transmission occupying most of the available space.

[BeePea]

Technically doesn't matter. But probably a little easier before the engine/trans is in place. Easier to hook up the cables at the handle. Gets pretty tight in the tunnel with the transmission occupying most of the available space.

Great, thanks!

[BeePea]

Fuel line routing question:

is it okay to run my fuel line in this fashion, then up on the outside of the frame tube?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147622&d=1620685840

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147623&d=1620685848

[BeePea]

Installed front brake lines. Will mount them to frame later today or tomorrow, it can sit flush no problem, and will once mounted.

Was real dumb and had the brass connector past my bend on my first bend, so I pushed it back to somewhat straight to move the fitting back to the end, then re-bent it. Looks a little chewed up, but not too bad (and hidden).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147773&d=1620851266

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147774&d=1620851281

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147775&d=1620851290

[FLPBFoot]

FYI...Usually the brake line is run on the outside (front) of the cross member so it does not have any interference with the battery. You might be ok but the battery terminals are on the front and might be an issue?

[BeePea]

FYI...Usually the brake line is run on the outside (front) of the cross member so it does not have any interference with the battery. You might be ok but the battery terminals are on the front and might be an issue?

Hmm, interesting, looking straight down the brake line is still in front of the battery box, so I hope it is okay that way.

[JB in NOVA]

FYI...Usually the brake line is run on the outside (front) of the cross member so it does not have any interference with the battery. You might be ok but the battery terminals are on the front and might be an issue?

Here's how mine looks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131863&d=1594872936

Perhaps too close for comfort? Your call.

[BeePea]

okay thanks, I'll pick up a battery and see how I feel about it, it does look close. Anyone have any issues with my fuel routing after my filter?

[JB in NOVA]

Just food for thought, but if you ground the negative terminal of the battery (like I did), perhaps it's actually not that much of a concern to have the brake line running nearby the negative terminal. An "accidental" ground to the brake line would be just one more ground to the frame (among several intentional grounds). Of course, if you ground the positive side, or if you use a reversed-terminal battery, that could be a problem. At this point, I'll just shut up and see if Edward B or other electrical gurus have anything more intelligent to say.

[Fman]

Installed front brake lines. Will mount them to frame later today or tomorrow, it can sit flush no problem, and will once mounted.

Was real dumb and had the brass connector past my bend on my first bend, so I pushed it back to somewhat straight to move the fitting back to the end, then re-bent it. Looks a little chewed up, but not too bad (and hidden).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147773&d=1620851266



One thing to consider is when you run that front brake line on the lower section of the frame you will be exposing it to a lot heat from the headers. Those headers throw A LOT of heat out from them. I ended up going on the top channel behind where I mounted my brake and clutch reservoirs. Going up high you will definitely have much less heat exposed to the line. Not sure if this would have any affect on your braking but I always thought cooler brake fluid is better than hot.

Here is where I made my run...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130384&d=1592885384

[edwardb]

I can't say with any data that having the brake line on that lower tube is a problem. But it does run relatively close to the headers and given the choice I run mine along the top tube. This picture from my #8674 build gives you an idea how much difference there is in space. This is a Coyote with long tube headers, so maybe not exactly like yours. But most will be about the same. As long as your front crossover clears the battery and terminals, should be OK. Although I do put mine along the front side. Now about those big loops on each side. :( I guess do what you have to do. But cutting and putting new flares on that steel tubing is super easy. Just saying.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/.highres/IMG_0467_zpscz8arbyl.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/9fc5592b-f6c0-442e-87aa-319e7e5e159e/p/6832ae1a-fdcb-4325-8b23-447886e9aaba)

[BeePea]

Bummer, looks like consensus is I need to toss those lines and buy new ones and run them differently.

[FLPBFoot]

Bummer, looks like consensus is I need to toss those lines and buy new ones and run them differently.

Hold on...are your headers ceramic coated? The 4 into 4 for the SBF supplied from FFR for my build are. FFR manual has you route the rear brake line down the front of the foot box about 2 or 3 inches behind the headers. I asked at Build School and talked to Dan at FFR and if you have ceramic coated headers the heat transmission is greatly reduced and they stand behind the manual saying you can rout brake lines as described. I think you can route the front lines as you have shown as they are 6 to 8 inches above the headers. Have to be many builders over the years that routed them per the manual with no problems.

I've used my IR gun on the ceramic coated headers and only get about a 300 Degree F reading at the heads. Ceramic is pretty amazing at reducing heat dissipation.

[NYMike]

Bummer, looks like consensus is I need to toss those lines and buy new ones and run them differently.

For what it’s worth we routed ours as the manual suggested. Don’t know if it will be ok yet but could always put heat shielding around it if it gets too hot. I think your fuel line will probably be ok as long as you clip it to make sure it stays away from the suspension.

[460.465USMC]

Hi BeaPea. I'm working on my front brake lines as well, and also using the F5 supplied lines. True confession: I also did not ensure the connector was on the right side of a bend...guess it's all part of the learning experience. Good news is these are only $9 to replace from O'Reilly's. They sell several lengths of the same brand.

In your run to your LF "T" fitting one thing to keep in mind is clearance from the steering shaft. I also took up some slack near the T fitting, and checked to ensure it won't interfere with the steering shaft. Just a friendly heads-up in case you hadn't checked for clearance.

[BeePea]

I re-did my brake lines, not 100% happy how my curls turned out in the engine bay for my second attempt due to less tube to work with after running across the front of the X, but they are done. Will be wrapping my fuel lines in the next couple of days as I just got the second batch of my fittings.

In the mean time I have been thinking about my dash, I am trying to go for a clean and symmetrical look, and I think I got it. Please let me know if anyone see's something I am missing. I am using the RT turn signal and leveraging the button for the horn, hence those items "missing." I know some don't care for the speedo on the left but I've always been a tach first kind of guy. I am using a toggle switch panel with four on-off-on switches and one off-on switch (for hazard). I need to find a better heater knob, pref one that is silver to match my start button.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148011&d=1621363339

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148012&d=1621363347

[egchewy79]

some recommend putting the most critical gauges closest to your vision, which in my opinion would be the oil pressure and water temp. you could swap fuel with the oil pressure and be fine.

[Fman]

That looks really nice, by chance did you mach up your steering wheel before cutting the holes for tach and speedo? It is a pretty small area where they need to be for good vision when driving with hands on the wheel.

Are you using the vintage toggle gauge bezel below the 5 gauge cluster?

[BeePea]

That looks really nice, by chance did you mach up your steering wheel before cutting the holes for tach and speedo? It is a pretty small area where they need to be for good vision when driving with hands on the wheel.

Are you using the vintage toggle gauge bezel below the 5 gauge cluster?

I'm using the pre-cut dash that comes with the kit, so I didn't cut out the holes for speedo, tach or steering wheel.

This is the toggle panel I got: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nvu-21101-03

[Fman]

Sorry did not realize the holes were pre cut, the tach and speedo gauges should be aligned for good vision. Good choice on that Vintage gauge bezel, good quality and IMO fits the period of the car really well.

Build on!

[BeePea]

Sorry did not realize the holes were pre cut, the tach and speedo gauges should be aligned for good vision. Good choice on that Vintage gauge bezel, good quality and IMO fits the period of the car really well.

Build on!

Thank you!

[Blitzboy54]

I like the toggle panel. looking good!

[NYMike]

Looks great! Toggle panel is going to look really cool.

[BeePea]

So I got my 3 way toggle switches delivered and they are incredibly stiff and require a lot of force to engage. I am worried that when installed they will put stress on the dash and bend it. Any way to loosen the switches up?

[msbrown6]

Toggle panel looks great - thanks for the link at Summit

[John Ibele]

So I got my 3 way toggle switches delivered and they are incredibly stiff and require a lot of force to engage. I am worried that when installed they will put stress on the dash and bend it. Any way to loosen the switches up?

I stiffened my dash, and I'm glad I did. But even if you don't plan to do a stiffener / backer behind the entire dash, you could do something more local in that area to stiffen things up. I guess my thought would be to put a rectangle of aluminum sheet in that area and holes drilled a bit oversized to make alignment easier. Rough up the back surface of the dash in that area and also the backer piece, then glue on with JB Weld. Then do a bracket which connects the bottom of the dash back to the frame. That should be sufficiently stiff to do the trick, if you can't find an alternative switch which needs less force. Good luck!

[BeePea]

I stiffened my dash, and I'm glad I did. But even if you don't plan to do a stiffener / backer behind the entire dash, you could do something more local in that area to stiffen things up. I guess my thought would be to put a rectangle of aluminum sheet in that area and holes drilled a bit oversized to make alignment easier. Rough up the back surface of the dash in that area and also the backer piece, then glue on with JB Weld. Then do a bracket which connects the bottom of the dash back to the frame. That should be sufficiently stiff to do the trick, if you can't find an alternative switch which needs less force. Good luck!

Good idea, thank you!

[Blitzboy54]

I regret not either buying a stiffer dash or re enforcing mine. When I operate the heater knob I get dash flex. Hoping the glove box shores it up a bit

[BeePea]

I regret not either buying a stiffer dash or re enforcing mine. When I operate the heater knob I get dash flex. Hoping the glove box shores it up a bit

I just ordered this morning a lower dash support that will also double to clean up the wires. Got it from Mike Everson.

[John Ibele]

I just ordered this morning a lower dash support that will also double to clean up the wires. Got it from Mike Everson.

Even better! I think you'll find that's plenty, but if not you could still glue a backer piece behind the switches.

[BeePea]

Is the vintage gauge dimmer switch located in the gauge box? I am hunting around for it and not locating it yet, maybe it is somewhere else in the kit boxes?

[Blitzboy54]

Is the vintage gauge dimmer switch located in the gauge box? I am hunting around for it and not locating it yet, maybe it is somewhere else in the kit boxes?

The gauge dimmer switch is the rheostat in headlight switch unless you mean the high beam switch. It’s a toggle ON ON with 3 prongs

** My mistake, like John said below. I missed the "vintage" part. My gauges are different.

[John Ibele]

Is the vintage gauge dimmer switch located in the gauge box? I am hunting around for it and not locating it yet, maybe it is somewhere else in the kit boxes?

Nope, it's not the rheostat in the headlight switch. Would be nice if it were. It comes with the vintage gauge set, so you should find it in the box below the gauges. It's kind of in the shadow in the lower right of this photo, mounted to the bottom lip of the dash.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51060502777_b6cc3f1714_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kN3qya)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kN3qya) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

[BeePea]

Nope, it's not the rheostat in the headlight switch. Would be nice if it were. It comes with the vintage gauge set, so you should find it in the box below the gauges. It's kind of in the shadow in the lower right of this photo, mounted to the bottom lip of the dash.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51060502777_b6cc3f1714_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kN3qya)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kN3qya) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

Awesome, I do no think I was shipped one.

[BeePea]

Hey guys, is my heater too high up on my firewall? I'm worried about body clearance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153877&d=1632840836

[egchewy79]

unfortunately, it does appear to be a tad too high. the body rests on the bulb seal on top of the firewall.

[BeePea]

unfortunately, it does appear to be a tad too high. the body rests on the bulb seal on top of the firewall.

That's what I figured, I was really hoping for some other miracle. Time to do some surgery!

[Blitzboy54]

First, welcome back. Second yes, I'm afraid that is too high. It needs to be below the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143900&d=1615155372

[BeePea]

First, welcome back. Second yes, I'm afraid that is too high. It needs to be below the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143900&d=1615155372

Thanks, I've been here, but very bad a putting updates in.

Below are some shots I took a week ago or so.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153880&d=1632848964

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153881&d=1632848973