Minimalist Dash Layout for Coyote?

[richtersand]

Hi all, after doing a lot of research online I am closing in on my final plan for my dash for my gen 3 coyote. I have seen lots of options for cool bells and whistles, but I am planning a relatively minimalist dash with only the lights/switches that will be needed frequently when driving the car. I have complete kit (RF wiring harness) and competition layout (picked up a 0.050" laser-cut competition dash from CDXXVII - thanks again!). I wanted to share my plan to see if I am missing anything critical. I am throwing a lot out there, so apologies for that. Any/all input is welcome, and thanks in advance for your feedback!

Dash Lights (converting to LED)

Turn signal (one light for both turn signals? also used for hazard lights? Or is separate light better for that?)
High beam on
Coyote MIL error


Under Dash

Odometer button
Clock button
Turn fan on (is this needed? I see a lot of people have this but not sure if it's necessary...)
Courtesy lights (is it better to run these always on when the headlights are on, or should I manually turn on via switch)


Dash Switches

Ignition
Fuel pump on/off
Headlights on/off (can I use the rotation of the headlight as dash dimmer? or should I use this for high beam? What is easier install?)
Hazard on/off
High beam on/off
RT turn signal, horn button on stalk


Gauges

Vintage gauges, standard setup: speedo, tach, oil pressure, volts, fuel, water temp, clock


I will be fabricating custom glove box aluminum. Considering a magnet close mechanism rather than lock/switch.

You'll notice I am not planning a power cutoff switch. I have an old corvette and have found this is unnecessary unless there's a power drain. Battery tender keeps it topped off. I could be talked into this, but leaning away from it.

I think that's about it. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Matt

[Fixit]

I also opted for the "less is more" look on #9365. Take a look here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-At-the-quot-House-of-Kleiner-quot&p=344109&viewfull=1#post344109), there are more details in posts further down.

[Avalanche325]

I am a less is more on the dash guy too.

Use the same light for turn and hazard. I don't know why, but I have never liked cars with one turn signal indicator. I like a left and right. That's just me.
You don't want courtesy lights on when driving. Mine come on when I turn the headlight knob. Put a switch in.
You cannot really use the headlight switch dimmer for the gauges. IRRC for the needles yes, but not the backlighting. They have their own dimmer as part of the inverter.

Fan on - This would be for if the thermostatic switch ever failed. Hopefully you never need it.

A lot of people, me included, use the button on the turn signal stalk for high beams. It also acts as a flash to pass when the lights are off. I can imagine breaking it off in a hit the horn panic.

[Jryasko]

I would delete the fan switch. Gen 3 Coyote controls the fan well, not like Gen 2 which is always on. Gen 3 will cycle.

[egchewy79]

I have my hazard on a momentary push button switch under the dash. I figure I won't need it too much, hopefully. You could also move the high beam to a foot controlled switch on the floorboard to keep the dash minimalistic.

[Avalanche325]

I have my hazard on a momentary push button switch under the dash. I figure I won't need it too much, hopefully. You could also move the high beam to a foot controlled switch on the floorboard to keep the dash minimalistic.

You mean you have to sit there and hold it for the hazards to be on? If so, I would be changing that.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Pretty minimal Coyote dash. Some extras in console but not needed for operation of the car. 6th year do over based on my normal daily driver experience. Moved some stuff around from original layout for ease of access.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/850x637/80-90__61ce2cf663c9ad2c8cf3762ec956ce9922031fa7.jpg

Left to right Upper - Speedo, LT/HZ, HB, RT/HZ, Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, Water Temperature

Left to right Middle - Turn Signal (long toggle spring loaded center off), Fuel, Volts

Left to right Lower - Steering column trim, Horn, Ignition, Hazzard, Lights (With Panel Dimer below), High/Low Beam, Heat Fan Speed (Pic with knob off - Knob same as Lights/Temp), Heat Temperature (electric)

Was doing install when I took the picture fan speed knob same as heat knob. Turn signal can be activated without taking hands off the wheel. Went with an electric bypass & heat control for the Coyote since coolant circulation needs to be maintained. Wanted to keep hot coolant out of the heater core in summer.

Semi-finished complete new setup.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/766x563/80-final_mock_up_82830bc566c465bcd22e97fb987ae7e0bc55 0243.jpg


Original 2014 layout

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116423&d=1571680123

Snake & Script are back on the new layout in same location - did not do a glove box.

Most guys do their own thing & unless you are trying to maintain accuracy to the original do what you like the best.

[Fixit]

Just a few pics:

Final Layout is (L to R):
Temp, Turn/Hazard indicator, MIL, Tach, (top 3) Volts, Fuel, Clock
Flanking the Speedo:
L upper = Horn
L lower = Ign
R upper L = Wipers
R upper R = Hazards
R lower L = Lights
R lower R = Heat/Fan/Temp (push/pull/twist)
Under the dash lip are the gauge dimmer, speedo function, and clock buttons.

I'm using the speedo indicator for High-Beams. The speedo turn indicators are useless (connected, but useless) in bright daylight. (My single turn indicator uses diode-blocking to serve multi-function.)
RT turn-signal stalk button is hi/low beam/flash to pass.
Headlight switch is as-supplied... 1st click is parking lights, 2nd click is headlights. Twist for needle dimming, all the way over to click for interior/footwell lighting.

The horn is actually very easy to use with hands @ 2 & 10 (fingers uncurled from the wheel will touch), and doesn't take much "memory" to remember it's on the dash, not in the wheel hub.
143372 143373

[egchewy79]

You mean you have to sit there and hold it for the hazards to be on? If so, I would be changing that.
Using the signal dynamics module. Push once to turn on, push again to turn off. Located on my left under the turn signal momentary toggle 143377

[richtersand]

This is great and exactly the input I was hoping for. Thanks everybody!

[Sdonnel]

I also minimized what was on my dash. Start button, hazard, fan over ride, and horn, All other switches are hidden on the lower dash supports .

143379

[Straversi]

I sent my Speedo back to Speedhut and they installed the high beam and indicator lights for minimal charge. They are very small so you don’t notice them when they are off. I only have the Coyote MIL above the steering wheel. I don’t have a fan switch. I like the horn on the end of the turn signal stock, works well. My courtesy lights are controlled by rotating the headlight switch. I mounted my ignition to the left of the steering wheel. I like it there and it cleans the dash up a bit more. It’s all personal preference. Play with it until you love it.
-Steve

[i.e.427]

This is our idea of a minimalist dash. This one isn't a Coyote but we've done the exact layout for a Coyote as well, this just happens to be the one in the shop right now. Sniper on this one controls the cooling fan.

~Horn button
~Ignition Switch (Key)
~Low oil pressure light (Red)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143384&d=1614226117

We chose to install the headlight switch and the hazard switch over to the left and behind the dash to eliminate as much clutter as possible. We're using the button on the end of the turn signal switch for the high/low beams

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143383&d=1614226100

[Jdav]

Like Straversi said, turn signals, high beam and flash indicator can be integrated into the speedo. Mine was already like that (received in 2017). If your vintage gauges are that age or newer, you should have it too.
Hi-low switch can use the button on the end of the RT turn signal lever.

In total, I have 11 holes in my dash:
1: Tach gauge
2: Speedo gauge
3: MIL light
4: water temp gauge
5: volt gauge
6: clock
7: oil pressure gauge
8: fuel gauge
9: horn button
10: ignition switch
11: light switch

[Alan_C]

I highly recommend you go with a competition dash layout from the start. I did not like having either the tach or speedo on the left side of the steering wheel. The steering wheel spoke can obscure your view.
Moving the indicator lights into upgraded gauges is a good suggestion to remove clutter. Consider upgrading the speedo to GPS as it provides additional functions accessible by a under dash switch.
If you install the FF heater and want a glovebox, you can only have one that is 1 inch deep, but still useful for keeping registration and other infrequently accessed paperwork. I added a storage area behind the rear seats and made a pocket door for access to that storage. Great for storing sunglasses, sunscreen, windbreaker, snacks, phone and the like. I also installed USB outlets in there to charge my phone.
Although not part of the dash, consider 2 cup holders in the console, they will get used from more than drinks.
Again, not part of the dash, but do the drop trunk floor as you will gain useful storage space in the trunk.
I also added door cards with map pockets, again they are great to store small items.
Do all you can to add to the storage and utility of the car, it will pay dividends down the road.

[Avalanche325]

Using the signal dynamics module. Push once to turn on, push again to turn off. Located on my left under the turn signal momentary toggle 143377

Got it! That sounds good.

[Jdav]

Like Straversi said, turn signals, high beam and flash indicator can be integrated into the speedo. Mine was already like that (received in 2017). If your vintage gauges are that age or newer, you should have it too.
Hi-low switch can use the button on the end of the RT turn signal lever.

In total, I have 11 holes in my dash:
1: Tach gauge
2: Speedo gauge
3: MIL light
4: water temp gauge
5: volt gauge
6: clock
7: oil pressure gauge
8: fuel gauge
9: horn button
10: ignition switch
11: light switch

Forgot to note that my hazard switch as well as my heated seat switches are below the dash above the trans tunnel on the a-shaped pillar
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23204-JDav-s-MK4-9028-Build-Thread&p=279787&viewfull=1#post279787
You can barely see the seat heat switches and hazard switch here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23204-JDav-s-MK4-9028-Build-Thread&p=291518&viewfull=1#post291518

[GTBradley]

...and doesn't take much "memory" to remember it's on the dash, not in the wheel hub.
Pff...does too! In a panic honk to stop a person from changing lanes into me I shut my engine off before I got to the dash mounted horn button. Don't ask:o

BTW, John. The diode-blocked light is an interesting way of combining things, what do you have displaying through that? I can imagine the Coyote MIL, oil pressure, water temp, etc might be piped through a single dash light.

[richtersand]

Does anyone have a link to LED lights that you guys have used and like? I searched for 30 minutes last night but didn't come up with anything definitive...

[phileas_fogg]

Enough folks have used these https://www.delcity.net/store/LED-Indicator-Lights/p_800791.h_679631.t_1 that I bookmarked the part.

I haven't, so I can't speak to their use.


John

[Fixit]

The diode-blocked light is an interesting way of combining things, what do you have displaying through that? I can imagine the Coyote MIL, oil pressure, water temp, etc might be piped through a single dash light.

The L, R, and Hazards all "blink" on a common lamp. The hazards are a bonus/by default as the circuit uses the same indicator bulb feed wires as the turn signals.
The cathode/short/neg of the LED is grounded in the typical manner. Each turn indicator feed has a blocking/steering diode installed in-line, with the banded end (anode) toward the LED (IN4001 is fine). The two anodes (banded end) of the diodes are tied together, and attached to the anode/long/pos of the LED.

** If your LED's are "direct drive/12v ready" you are done. If you are using raw LED's you will need to calculate the value, and install a resistor in-line with either leg of the LED.**

[Joe Campbell]

While the body is off for repairs I'm making upgrades including the CF dash. Moved heater, courtesy, hazard and cruise switches all under the dash.

144376

[olson_adam]

Gauge mounted blinkers and high beam here