Jesse builds a Cobra #10,008

[Blitzboy54]

Hi Guys,

I ordered my kit October 6th. My completion date was February 13th. I haven't heard from Stewart yet but I hope to soon. I have been a lurker around here for a while and have been following most of the recent builds and have gone back through a number of the highly recommended ones. I'm starting my build thread in hopes of adding to the community and to document my experience. I want to try and give direct credit whenever possible to those of you whose cars i am taking inspiration from (or in some cases straight stealing good ideas). I've been riding and occasionally racing motorcycles since my early 20's. Part of how I sold the build to my wife was I am trading in my bikes for the car so I sold my last Ducati to pay for the drivetrain. I still have one bike left but I'm confident I will need something that selling that one will pay for :)

Looking to do something with modern touches. We will see how it goes

My kit from FFR

306 - At the machine shop in waiting for the dyno
T5 - Rebuilt and reinforced
8.8 rear end 3:55 (Moser axles)
Full Kit
Powder Coated Chassis
Body Cutouts
3-Link
Ultra Lite Gauges
Winds wings/Sun visors
Wipers
Heater/Defroster
Duel Roll bar
High back race seats
Leather steering wheel
Assembled Louvers
Trunk strut kit
Power steering
Hydraulic Clutch
Wilwood Front and Rear

Add on's

Holley Sniper EFI and Hyperspark ignition
Thompson Drop trunk
Breeze Battery relocation
Breeze Storage cubby
Whitby SS Windshield inserts - Thanks Chris
Herbs door panels
Push button self canceling turn signals - Thanks Papa
FFMetal Firewall
FFMetal Trans cover

Entire shelves of items I've picked up from watching your builds.


So here she is! My cradle shot came yesterday

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143054&d=1613854803

Here's my space ready for delivery. Hopefully mostly done with the snow. I have to say some of you have the most incredible garage/shops.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143050&d=1613854638

I don't have much to show off yet, but this is where I am going wheel wise

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143053&d=1613854754

Rear end and tranny ready to go except I am still debating about grinding the quad shock. If I do it it will be soon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143051&d=1613854673

Lastly I was originally going to install the PBR breaks but upgraded to the Wilwoods. As a result I have a complete set of Ford rear brakes (calipers POR-15 red, rotors and all lines/brackets for an 8.8 rear end). I have no use for them, if anyone would like them they are yours for whatever they cost to ship. Might not be worth it for these parts as they are heavy but if anyone wants them let me know.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143049&d=1613854592

[achi]

PM sent

Thanks.
Achi

[BadAsp427]

Welcome to the craziness. Your in a good place here on the forum..

[GoDadGo]

Looks Like You Are Well On Your Way!

.Congratulations & Welcome Aboard!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Sorry about the Ducati but we’ve all been there. Gotta make room for new toys.
Enjoy the build and thanks for posting.
-Steve

[Blitzboy54]

I forgot to add, for those of you looking at build threads that haven't purchased yet. If you're a vet make sure to mention that at purchase. FFR offers a $500 discount on the full kit. It certainly pays for an an upgrade or 2.


I'll add this cuz my car isn't here and why not. Almost done!! lol

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143160&d=1613915712

[Straversi]

You see people? That’s how you deal with parts shortages. Work with what you got.
Making great progress.
-Steve

[BeePea]

Nice build, similar to mine! My completion date was 2/6, also haven't heard from Stewart yet on shipping timing, they estimate pickup first week of March then 10-14 days delivery after that, COVID has slowed them down. On the plus side, seems like lots of part shortages right now, so hoping that an extra month sitting for transport makes the POL shorter.

Who did you ask for to get your cradle shot? I want to see mine as well.

Blake

[Blitzboy54]

Nice build, similar to mine! My completion date was 2/6, also haven't heard from Stewart yet on shipping timing, they estimate pickup first week of March then 10-14 days delivery after that, COVID has slowed them down. On the plus side, seems like lots of part shortages right now, so hoping that an extra month sitting for transport makes the POL shorter.

Who did you ask for to get your cradle shot? I want to see mine as well.

Blake

Funny, I just got off the phone with Stewart. They are loading up on March 1st/2nd. I am the 2nd stop (apparently a bunch of delivery's in NY). I am looking at the 3rd or 4th. Obviously delays due to weather are day for day but we will see what happens. He mentioned the truck finishes up in Washington so I would assume that's your car (congrats!!!) You should be getting a call soon.

On the cradle shot I did not have a lot of luck at first with my sales guy. I ended up sending a request to the generic info@facotryfive.com and got a response in a couple of hours.


It's all happening! This is starting to have a very 12 years old Christmas Eve vibe to it. I'm very pumped.

[BeePea]

I did just get off the phone with Stewart as well, and yup, we are on the same truck! Sounds like I am second to last (there is another Washington delivery after me).

[hineas]

I am so excited for you!!! It is a good feeling to know when it will be loaded, but the remaining days will drag slower and slower....

It is definitely worth the wait!

[460.465USMC]

I forgot to add, for those of you looking at build threads that haven't purchased yet. If you're a vet make sure to mention that at purchase. FFR offers a $500 discount on the full kit. It certainly pays for an an upgrade or 2.


I'll add this cuz my car isn't here and why not. Almost done!! lol

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143160&d=1613915712

Hello Blitzboy! Excited for you the big day is almost here!

Dang! I've already learned two things this morning about ordering from F5: yours is the second thing...your tip about the veteran discount. Bummer for me I missed it, but really glad you were able to take advantage of the discount!

I like your wheel choice. Mine are on back order, but I seriously considered a wheel just like yours. I'm not a fan of the Halibrand look, so went with different design, and black wheels as well. I also went with the Nitto G2--also on backorder.

Welcome aboard!

[hineas]

It's getting closer! March 3rd or 4th is just a handful of days away. Here's to hoping it is March 3rd!!!

[Blitzboy54]

I’m barley holding it together if I’m being honest can’t believe it’s almost here.

[Fman]

Subscribed! Congratulations, I am excited for you... delivery day is really awesome. Looking forward to following your build.

and those wheels you selected look great!

[Blitzboy54]

Thank you! I'm glad I can make them fit. Turns out the 10.5 rear wheels are a little thicker than some and the standard Wilwood from FFR doesn't fit them. Fortunately Gordon Levy is super great and set me up with a different set for the rear. Going to a 4 piston with a shoe for a parking brake. These apparently fit the 15 inch wheels as well for all the purists out there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143669&d=1614811893

[Blitzboy54]

"The new phone books are here, the new phone books are here"




Well, It happened. The Stewart showed up bright and early at 7:30 and it was glorious. Enough snow has melted that I didn't have to do anything crazy to make the driveway dolly friendly. I had a blow torch plan in my back pocket (a little disappointed I didn't need it if I'm being honest) to clear the hard ice but it's been warm the last couple of days. The delivery experience was first rate. It was painless and fun. The diver told me a few of his best delivery stories including a driveway that was so long and hard to navigate he ended up spending the night at a customers house. He ate pizza and watched him and his son do the inventory.

So FFR build number 10,008 is home. When I ordered my kit I did some back of the napkin math and thought I had a shot at being build #10,000 alas I overshot my mark by probably a week. My consolation prize is a I have a bad*** Cobra kit in my garage so big winner chicken dinner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143672&d=1614812043

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I ordered my kit 10/6. I asked for a completion date of mid February mostly because I don't have a heated garage (I have propane heater that takes the edge off). My thought was I would receive it right around March when the weather turned. Another side effect is because the longer lead time my POL is not that bad. It was a full page but 60% was filled before it shipped. Most items are not an issue and I will likely have them in hand before i need them. The big hitters are LCA's (of course), spindles, dash, engine mounts and steering rack. I did get a radiator, I was surprised by that. The last 2 if push comes to shove I can purchase aftermarket but I have plenty of work to do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143679&d=1614813530

With inventory being done I sent a note to FFR for my few missing items and one damaged one (drivers side roll bar is nicked to the metal) I'm not sure I care as I think I may want to PC them a different finish but I thought they should know. In retrospect I should have had them sent unfinished. As a matter of fact I will ask FFR to send my missing passenger side roll bar in just that state.

I have 2 questions for the group. My trunk fiberglass has some separation. I am assuming this is fairly normal but it is quite a bit thicker in that spot because of it. I am quite a ways away from body work but would like some opinions if its a concern. Second are the brackets that bolt on to the front quick jack bolts and the blinkers. Are those just for shipping or will I nee them again?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143677&d=1614812186

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143678&d=1614812231




I was talking to a forum member last week and I recounted why I wanted to build a Cobra. I was born in the 70's so I have no direct exposure to the original. To be honest I had never heard of Shelby or Cobra until I was well into adulthood. My parents were not car people. I never even saw one until my late 20's, but when I did it was simply the sexiest car I had ever seen. Then a guy at work told me I could build one and my imagination has been running wild ever since. Now 20 years later, after all the parenting, husbanding, working and saving its here. It's in my garage and I could not possibly be more excited.

[Blitzboy54]

Another question I have is I have a hydraulic clutch and Wilwood front and rear brakes. I only received 2 reservoirs. One for the clutch and one for the brakes. Shouldn't I have 3?

[hineas]

Another question I have is I have a hydraulic clutch and Wilwood front and rear brakes. I only received 2 reservoirs. One for the clutch and one for the brakes. Shouldn't I have 3?

The reservoir for the brakes feeds both the front and rear master cylinders. The manual has you put a "Y" in the hose after the reservoir to be able to feed both master cylinders.

Many people end up separating the system entirely and putting in a third reservoir.

[edwardb]

Congrats on your delivery. Now the fun begins. I wouldn't really call that a separation on the trunk lid. More like a void. You or your body shop can jam some HSRF in there (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Marine-High-Strength-Repair-Filler/?N=5002385+3293087022&rt=rud) and it will be fine. If you look closely, you'll probably find similar although smaller voids in other pieces. Typically not an issue. For those front brackets, yes they're intended to be used on the final product. Not just for shipping. Many of us, me included, don't use them.

[BeePea]

Congrats on the delivery and I love the story of you dreaming for 20 years of this day!

I also did the math and was hoping for something between
or equal to 9999 and 10001, sounds like I'll be slightly above that, oh well!

Can't wait to see your progress! There are a few of us siblings!

[egchewy79]

does FFR number their chassises by model? in other words, is there a #10000 roadster, or is there a possibility that the #10000 chassis is a 818 or GTM?

[Blitzboy54]

does FFR number their chassises by model? in other words, is there a #10000 roadster, or is there a possibility that the #10000 chassis is a 818 or GTM?

I dont actually know, I’ve thought about it and I think it’s by model. Dave said recently on one of their videos they’ve shipped over 12,0000 cars so I assume than it has to be model specific unless they changed their system at some point. I’ve also poked around the other builds and their numbers are much lower.

Having said that I am prepared to be wrong

[FFinisher]

Serial numbers run by model.


There is a serial #10,000 cobra, It has been sold to a customer and I am building it for the customer. It should be completed and in the customers hands in the next month or so.

[BeePea]

Serial numbers run by model.


There is a serial #10,000 cobra, It has been sold to a customer and I am building it for the customer. It should be completed and in the customers hands in the next month or so.

Do you know the FFR completion date of #10,000? Trying to ballpark my number.

[FFinisher]

I don't recall. I think the are at about 10035 now.

[Blitzboy54]

Serial numbers run by model.


There is a serial #10,000 cobra, It has been sold to a customer and I am building it for the customer. It should be completed and in the customers hands in the next month or so.


That dude got my Cobra :)

[BeePea]

That dude got my Cobra :)

I thought it was mine! ;) How long did inventory take you?

[Blitzboy54]

I thought it was mine! ;) How long did inventory take you?

I got lucky and took delivery at 7:30 am. I had everything in the garage and was waiving goodby to the driver by 8:15. I was done by 4:00 ish. That included a 30 minute lunch/shower break. I also have to move most of my parts to a shed for storage and that took some time. I was missing a few minor items the only real issue is my passenger side roll bar and grommet set, I received neither but it was not on my POL, looks like an oversight. It was added to my missing parts list

I had the music going and enjoyed it thoroughly. After dinner I removed the doors, hood and trunk. Now I'm waiting for my friends to come over and help me move the body off to the buck Friday night. I'm guessing that will be the end of the progress as beer was promised and I think we will likely sit around BS the rest of the night.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143754&d=1614897445


Speaking of inventory does anyone know if this is in fact the correct part (16915 - 1-2" id FILLER HOSE)? I assumed it was but could be wrong also what is it for?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143752&d=1614897372

[NYMike]

Do you know the FFR completion date of #10,000? Trying to ballpark my number.

I must have just missed it. Our date was 2/13 and we got 10002. I think I remember Dave saying in the FF live the other day that they finish 2 per day. Not sure if that’s roadsters or everything they make.

[460.465USMC]

Congratulations, Jesse! What a great feeling to have it in your garage!! Looks like you have a nice setup for your build.

[Fman]

Super cool! Time to get wrenchin';)

[FFinisher]

Yes , that is the filler hose. It goes between the filler pipe and the Lemans cap. You will cut it approximately in half.

[Blitzboy54]

It's been a fun week. I spent some time putzing around the car getting my head straight and putting together a build strategy. One of the deals I made with myself is no deadlines. I don't want to feel the gotta get it done pressure. That's a work thing. But I then realized I actually do have a bit of a weird deadline. My Dad is coming out for a week to help with the build in April. I am taking a week off. A lot of my POL parts are suspension related so we will have to move to the next thing. That gets us to the peddle box and steering. Since I am powder coating a lot of the aluminum I do need to get that done as it seems I need the front of the drivers foot box in place and to a lesser extent the firewall.

So I started getting my aluminum figured out. The manual says to pull off all of it then mark and drill it. I decided to go a different route. Most of the panels pre installed are already where I want them with the machine screws holding them in. So I decided to mark and drill them in place. The few panels that needed trimming I marked and those that I wanted to be shifted I removed the machine screws and used Cleco's to adjust. I then went ahead and marked everything then drilled in place. This way after PCing I can rivet without a lot of drilling outside of cleaning up the holes. At least that's what I told myself but I am prepared for the conventional wisdom of the board to explain why I was wrong. :)


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143903&d=1615155478

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143897&d=1615155181


For underneath the I just jacked up one side at the time to access the foot box floor

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143896&d=1615155144

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143904&d=1615155518

[Blitzboy54]

I am installing the heater defroster so I got that mocked up as well. This is where I made my first mistake. I have read so many build threads I feel like in some ways I've done this before. I haven't, I jumped right in and after I had everything cut I found my holes didn't line up that well. Then I read the instructions and first thing is says is sometimes the holes don't line up that well and to double check the unit you have with the template. This was a good lesson and I got lucky as it didn't require a new firewall. I may ask next week the lead time on one but I suspect it's a while. The 2 feed through holes are off center but with the grommet in there I think its ok


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143899&d=1615155331

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Now she's down to the bare frame. I'll get the panels organized this week and remove the glass from the windshield. Those things and the exhaust I would like to get to my guy next week.

Also a word of caution. The heater has a warning tag that says it’s pressurized and to be careful removing the cap. That thing blew off like a gunshot, funny in retrospect but it would have ruined my day it it hit me in the eye.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143905&d=1615155589

[Fman]

Jesse, If you need a new firewall check out these options... it is a much stouter .090 thickness compared to the .040 FFR. Especially if you have a heater mounted to it, worth the investment imo. FFmetal also makes a really nice transmission tunnel piece that is an upgrade from the FFR piece.

https://www.ffmetal.com/#fw1

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse, If you need a new firewall check out these options... it is a much stouter .090 thickness compared to the .040 FFR. Especially if you have a heater mounted to it, worth the investment imo. FFmetal also makes a really nice transmission tunnel piece that is an upgrade from the FFR piece.

https://www.ffmetal.com/#fw1

This is great. Agreed it's pretty floppy with the heater on it. Ordering this evening.

Thank you

**Update, Already have a tracking number and will be here Thursday, really good stuff**

[Blitzboy54]

Not for the faint of heart but I managed to remove the chrome frame from the window. I want to PC it. Takes lots of patients and I like to use rubbing alcohol has a lubricant. Seems like it will be an adventure re assembling.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144422&d=1615775987

There are 8 soft brass screws that hold it together then it’s just press fit.

[BeePea]

Not for the faint of heart but I managed to remove the chrome frame from the window. I want to PC it. Takes lots of patients and I like to use rubbing alcohol has a lubricant. Seems like it will be an adventure re assembling.

143992

There are 8 soft brass screws that hold it together then it’s just press fit.

Eee, you are very brave. I am not doing this. :)

[Blitzboy54]

Started getting my rear end put together. I pulled the axles. Since i am going to have a shoe for a parking brake I will leave them out until they arrive so I don't have to take them out again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144051&d=1615349273


I have a fill port on my cover so I can still install it onto the frame and add the fluid after the axles are back in. I got it setup on the bench and got cranking. The manual says you can use a 1/2 drill bit to remove the powder coating. I don't see how that's in any way optional. It's too tight otherwise. I also found it helpful to run the drill through the back of the shock mount and even out the opening between the FFR bracket and the original hole.

Getting the upper bracket on requires a lot of patients. I highly recommend reaming all the holes in both ends. My biggest bit is 1/2 but going a 1/16 larger would have been better in my opinion. Getting all the bolts to simply slide through was tough. All in all it was a little like wrestling an alligator. It was fun though and I think it would take me half the time to do it again. Between the paint on the housing and the powder coat on the bracket its tight. I used a pneumatic impact gun. If you used hand tools it would be a lot of sweat equity. The brace didn't line up with my pumpkin hole so I drilled that out. My only issue is the you can see the bolt isn't long enough. I need another quarter inch so it gets into the nylon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144053&d=1615349338

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144054&d=1615349366

Thoroughly greased the LCA,s. Question - The manual says to put it on the lower bracket for "better traction" What does the upper position get you? is this just ride height or a stiffer suspension?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144052&d=1615349316

[Blitzboy54]

I'm trying to decide if I like the satin finish of the frame PC better than the gloss. It's a moot point because I am not re coating it no matter what but I think the real test will be how does it look in a few years.

I took the axle down and mocked it up in the frame. One of the things I had been back and forth about was the quad shocks. I built the rear end out of a donor housing that was in remarkably good shape. They are useless but at the end of the day nobody really sees them. Why fix something that's not broke and besides they made for a great place to get a sling attached to. I took it off the stand and mocked it up in the frame and I had a change of heart. I just don't like the way they look and I could tell it was going to bother me till the end of time so I pulled it back down, took off the new parts then wrapped and taped the rest.

I used a sawsall and angle grinder. It went really well. I wish I had stopped to take pictures but I just got in the zone and forgot to.

Mounted everything back up. I did run into an issue where my axle was resting on the panhard bracket. It bothered me enough to make a thread on the main board but Dr. Kleiner said it was normal so that's good enough for me. I had the upper link tube shortened. In my mind that would put the axle at it's highest point, this is exactly backwards. When you lengthen it it rotates the axle up and away from the bracket. So learned a little something. So now I have it just off the bracket for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144204&d=1615570963

Re mounted the shocks and lined everything back up. I have the axles floating in there for now (nothing holding them in) and the back cover is loosely attached until my brakes come in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144202&d=1615570891

One thing I had to do was I made the groove too deep on my frame dolly for the 4" round tubes to sit in. I had to modify it to make room for the LCA's. No big deal but something to keep in mind when designing yours. I also think your dolly has to sit behind the back 4' cross member. I had it in front and it was really easy to lift the front end. I would think rear axle would have been enough weight to make it tippy. Short term issue as you put things on the car it will balance itself out. Just my observations.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144205&d=1615571034

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[NYMike]

Looking great! I’m also on the fence about the powder coat, but part of that is because on mine it flaked off by a few of the suspension mounts. I probably would have gone gloss if i had gotten it coated myself.

[Blitzboy54]

Looking great! I’m also on the fence about the powder coat, but part of that is because on mine it flaked off by a few of the suspension mounts. I probably would have gone gloss if i had gotten it coated myself.

Thanks Mike,

Yup, where the panhard bracket bolts to the 4 inch tube a bunch of PC cracked and came off when I torqued it. I’ll POR 15 it but again it won’t match because the satin finish.

[Blitzboy54]

I received my new firewall from FFMetal. Great product and I had it in hand 4 days after I ordered it. Fman was right, the heater blower is heavy and makes the firewall a bit floppy. the new piece is cut well and is more than double the thickess. I am probably going to pick up the transmission cover as well when it's time.

Got it mocked up and ready just in time to get everything to the powdercoater tomorrow. Also be aware that the FFR supplied template for the heater really isn't close. Perhaps it was at one time but it was off by a lot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144390&d=1615746727

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[egchewy79]

I found the same problem with my heater template, off by about half inch. Measure twice. Cut once. I was lucky enough to read about it in other build threads. Pretty well documented issue.

[Blitzboy54]

I purchased an oven I found on Ebay. A guy that owned rentals was selling this IKEA oven brand new for $100. He didn't realize it was a cabinet mounted unit when he purchased it and couldn't use it. It's 30 inches and I set it up in the basement. Our house is quite old and the basement is unfinishable space for a lot of reasons. It sets up perfectly for powder coating. I plan to powder coat as much as possible. I sent 4 tins to a business I found in Albany. I need my F panels and driver footbox front right away and the firewall doesn't fit in my oven. I plan to do the rest. But first need to learn how

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144572&d=1615940654

I have 2lbs of gloss black from Prismatic Powders and a Harbor Freight powder coat system. The Easton unit and HF are inexpensive are reviewed comparably. I had a coupon so that was ultimately the decider. I reached out to Mark Eaton, he was the first guy I saw that did it himself. After reading his build thread It gave me the confidence to give it a try. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25895-Eaton-s-Mk4-9130-Oregon-Build-quot-Cobra-on-the-Coast-quot

I used a cut off piece of aluminum panel and one of the steel brackets that bolt on to the nose of the car since I am likely not going to use it it seemed like it was good for practice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144599&d=1615947027

I need to pick up some proper cleaner tomorrow but in order to get started I used degreaser and brake cleaner to prep the metal. I prepped the aluminum panel and pre heated the oven to 400 degrees. I set the regulator to 15 psi and coated the metal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144573&d=1615940676

I used an IR gun I borrowed from work to measure the metal temp. The curing instructions were 10 minutes at 400 after the metal reaches the proper temperature. I needed to heat the oven to 425 to get to 400 on the gun.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144574&d=1615940700

Then set the timer

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[Blitzboy54]

The first piece came out with a lot of thin spots, but not awful for the first try but not really close either. The edges were also bare in spots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144575&d=1615940767

I obviously need more powder so I turned up the regulator to 20 psi. I spent twice as much time coating the bracket and made sure to spend more time in the little spots. I was also curious if you can add a "second coat", so I reshot the panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144576&d=1615940788

You definitely can re coat pieces so that's a relief if mistakes are made and mistakes will be made. The bracket looks better but I can still see some details in the edges I don't like yet. You can see in the panel a blemish. This was me accidently touching it with my glove when it was coming out of the oven. When it's still hot and soft it's super important not to touch it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144578&d=1615940860

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144577&d=1615940833

I plan to experiment with better cleaners and different metal prep as well as PC thicknesses and layers. I am going to take the some time this week to try and find the best combinations with the equipment I have, then get to work on the panels.

[Railroad]

My powder instructions are 20 minutes at 400* F. Different powders, different melting points. I usually set the oven temp higher than recommended curing temp. After opening the door and hanging items the temp is close to the recommended setting.
My powder gun does best at 5 to 6 lbs of pressure. I hang the part on a stainless wire and that on a stainless clothes line. The clothes line is connected to the guns static ground. That way everything is grounded at one time.
You can pre cook your items for cleaning and cooking out oils.
With the glass oven door you can watch the powder melt to molten and gloss.
I practice hanging all items in the oven, before powder coating. Very frustrating to have parts get bumped and having to spray the powder again.
Body, parking light brace looks good.

[Lidodrip]

I am learning to powder coat as well. I have a Redline EZ50 gun which works great. This is what I have learned along the way.

Grounding is critical and relying on your household electrical system may not be good enough. If you have direct access to your grounding rod in your house, that works, otherwise you can add a new grounding rod which is pretty easy. I put one in my basement workshop - 6' copper coated rod was $17 from Ace Hardware, drilled a hole in the basement floor and fairly easy work pounding it in with a small sledge hammer. Adhesion of powder was significantly improved once I did this.

As Railroad mentions, each powder has its own bake temp and duration. It is important to note that this temp is the surface temperature of what you are coating, not the oven temperature. A thin piece of metal will reach the desired temperature quickly, but a brake caliper will take a while. You need an infrared thermometer to measure surface temperatures - $20 at Harbor Freight or most auto parts stores. Once the surface temp hits the target, that is when you start your bake time. You may need to dial back your oven temp once you get the correct surface temperature so as not to overshoot too much.

If there is trouble with adhesion, it could be a prep problem. Parts need to be thoroughly cleaned and de-greased. General rule is that parts should be clean enough that you can put them on your best white linen and leave no mark. I too do a pre-cook like Railroad for any cast parts. Sand blasting is ideal, but not something I have access to. Treatment with iron phosphate will help and there are a few companies that sell it in small quantities (gallon size). Also, turning down your pressure can help too as it reduces the rate of powder delivered and allows better charging of the powder.

I find second coating a challenge with getting consistent adhesion. General recommendation is to reduce your voltage (if your gun supports it).

Bracket looks good, nice job. Good luck with your panels, I ended up sending most of mine out as I didn't have a big enough oven.

[Blitzboy54]

Excellent feedback, Thank You both.


Grounding is critical and relying on your household electrical system may not be good enough

I would assume then if you see a random spark while coating your grounding is not good enough. That's what happened on my first piece, maybe had more to do with my inconsistent coating on the first try. I ended up attaching my rack differently the second time. I will harden that up first.


I practice hanging all items in the oven, before powder coating. Very frustrating to have parts get bumped and having to spray the powder again.
Body, parking light brace looks good.

This I learned last night too. Order of operation will be test hang and remove, then pre heat the oven while I clean, pre bake if necessary then shoot.


What di you guys do differently with chrome? My plan was to scuff it giving it a brushed finish for better adhesion. I was planning to buy a few cheep chrome items to test on.

[Railroad]

The spark is indication, the ground is good, also holding the gun too close to target.
I have not coated over chrome. Maybe some light glass beading or fine sanding prior to coating will help. Any change in surface texture will show in the powder coating.

[Lidodrip]

What di you guys do differently with chrome? My plan was to scuff it giving it a brushed finish for better adhesion. I was planning to buy a few cheep chrome items to test on.

I have not done a previously chromed piece. You might want to try calling a local powder coater and ask their advice or posting the question on the Powder365 Forum.

[Blitzboy54]

I got some of my panels back from PC and mounted them. I realize I still need to put holes in my firewall but felt ok about drilling them later. The grommets will be covering them anyhow. I've learned blue tape is your friend. I've been using a pneumatic riveter a coworker loaned me. It's really nice and will make the 3/8 rivets go easier I would assume. On my driver side F panel the day after I mounded them I realized I missed one. So I grabbed my hand rivet tool and installed it. The tool jumped in my hand and of course put a nice little scratch in my panel. So disappointing, I don't mind learning lessons but would have preferred a near miss. I used POR 15 and tooth pick to fill it in. It's not immediately obvious unless your looking for it but ooph.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144861&d=1616331319

Now that my F panels are in I started on my front suspension. The POL fairy stopped at my house this weekend and I got my LCA's. Like everyone else running power steering I modified my upper arms to create enough adjustment. I cut off the the sleeves (right about 3/8 on each side) and the same to the threads. I don't have a band saw and I was not comfortable using a sawsall so I did it the old fashioned way. Wasn't that bad. The aluminum went easy. The welded threads on the ball joint plate are another story. I just took my time and it eventually got through. Let me know if there are any obvious issues.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144863&d=1616331364

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144864&d=1616331388

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144865&d=1616331418

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144866&d=1616331433

[Jeff Kleiner]

You have installed the shortened link on the front on the driver's side; it needs to go to the rear. Your passenger side is correct.

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

You have installed the shortened link on the front on the driver's side; it needs to go to the rear. Your passenger side is correct.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, that makes more sense.

I got stuck on the idea that the shorter sleeve had to be on the solid welded leg. Unfortunately that means on the drivers side I trimmed the wrong threaded pieces. Hopefully that doesn’t come back o bite me. I’ll get that down and fixed.

Update** swapped. Hopefully I’m back on track.

144890

Another thing is after every phase start reading back through a few choice build threads. I was looking at Fman's and he had that issue already sorted via Paul. There is just so much great information on this forum.

[Blitzboy54]

I wish I had a cleaner build space. I have an old dusty detached garage that I vacuum with a shop vac every night. Despite that it will always be hard to keep clean. It's just one of the challenges of this build. At some point I am going to have to cover it at night. I could make the garage better or I can build a Cobra. It was an easy choice.

So on to the pedal box. Nothing fancy just trying to do it like everyone else. I've always liked the look of the Wilwood pedal box and master cylinders. Just think they look sharp. Since I have my powder coat setup in the basement and am starting to get consistent results I decided to PC all the brackets because why not.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144993&d=1616463434

I the manual didn't say anything about removing the pedals to drill the switch bracket hole, it wasn't until I rewatched an FFR build video they mentioned it. I had already drilled from the top. The hole lined up right where it needed to be. For anyone that hasn't done it yet if you drill from the top you don't have to remove the pedal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144994&d=1616463501

I am going to keep the pistons fairly even to start. I have 4 piston Wilwoods in the rear vs the FFR offered 1 piston. Both masters are 3/4 so I'm guessing I will need less bias. I may invest in the remote bias adjuster knob but I feel like once the breaks are set that will be that. I trimmed the recommended 5/8 off the end of the MC rods. Seemed like a lot but the instructions were clear and I haven't read in anyone's thread that there was a problem

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144995&d=1616463529

I set the switch all the way out and brought the pedals in to meet them. As the system gets fine tuned I assume this will change but I'm generally happy with them for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144996&d=1616463555

Once the accelerator pedal is installed I may need to move the brake pedal over one slot

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144997&d=1616463584

My seats are on back order so I'm sitting low but I like the setup so far.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144998&d=1616463614

[BeePea]

Looks nice! We are in very similar spots it looks like. I drilled mine switch holes from the underside without removing my pedals, it worked okay. The clutch bracket didn't seem like it was going to fit no matter what I drilled, I cut a small amount off of it in the rear with my hacksaw and it installed perfectly after that.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks nice! We are in very similar spots it looks like. I drilled mine switch holes from the underside without removing my pedals, it worked okay. The clutch bracket didn't seem like it was going to fit no matter what I drilled, I cut a small amount off of it in the rear with my hacksaw and it installed perfectly after that.

The back of the pedal box is rounded a bit. Its easy to push the bracket too far back and not notice it's not totally flat. Then when you bring it around to the other side its a touch off.

We are sort of tied at the hip on this thing since the beginning:) So far it's been a lot of fun, hope you feel the same.

[BeePea]

The back of the pedal box is rounded a bit. Its easy to push the bracket too far back and not notice it's not totally flat. Then when you bring it around to the other side its a touch off.

We are sort of tied at the hip on this thing since the beginning:) So far it's been a lot of fun, hope you feel the same.

I am enjoying it quite a bit, just wish I had my IRS parts so I can work on that.

[NYMike]

Looks great! When you put the gas pedal in, I would recommend mocking up the inside footbox panels to make sure you have clearance for the pedal. Its pretty tight in there and ours was not going to work where we initially thought we wanted it.

[Blitzboy54]

FFR has clearly moved on to a new accelerator pedal since the manual was published. it's unclear how to move the pedal leg. I eventually figured out you had to remove the spline from the pedal body but you need to use a little force

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145051&d=1616550058
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145052&d=1616550073
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145053&d=1616550091

I finished the accelerator pedal and moved on to the throttle cable. Like NYMike I was a little confused as to how it goes together. Also like him I got into the forum and there were answers there. The manual is definitely vague on the subject, you need to cut both ends and put the larger end through the bulkhead. A little tip for folks if you cut a braided cable you definitely do not want to use wire cutters. If the cable frays you will be chasing it and its never really right after that. I worked in bicycle shops growing up and my wife and I are life long cyclists. Lots of bike tools hanging around our house. If you want a perfect cut on a braided cable get a set of bicycle cable cutters like these. Park Tools are the best but lots of brands work just fine. If you don't want to buy a set for one cut bring your cable by any bike shop and ask them to cut it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145055&d=1616550141

Like everyone else I am missing my steering rack. FFR says mid to late April on those. So I mocked up the upper shaft. I'll need to go back put Loctite on the set screws in the shaft when the whole steering system is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145058&d=1616550251
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145057&d=1616550183

Finally, FFR had originally sent me a couple powder coated roll bars. Both were scratched pretty bad. They were super great about sending replacements and sending return shipping for the old ones for re work but since I want a gloss finish on them I asked for mild steel and they obliged. Then gave me a credit for the "inconvenience" I thought that was a very classy if an unnecessary gesture on their part.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145054&d=1616550120

Now it looks like I'm on to footbox and cockpit aluminum. Lots of mocking and powder coating this week. I have a little extra time this week. My wife and I get our second vaccine dose this weekend so we will have to see if that knocks us out any. Hopefully not.

My dad comes out Easter for a week to help with the car. I'm super excited to hang out in the garage and tinker.

[BeePea]

Looking very nice!

[Blitzboy54]

I'm on to footbox aluminum so I've been focusing on powder coating. For the thin panels I seem to have my sea legs under me. After some experimentation and advice this is the process I've landed on.

I start with a clean surface, Acetone, IPA (rubbing alcohol), gloves and lint free rags. I rub down both sides really good with the acetone. Then use a new rag and do the same with the IPA.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145090&d=1616623787

I then use a clean wire wheel I picked up at harbor freight and run it across all surfaces. It takes a little practice not to have it run off on you but just roll it over to one edge and make nice even passes. Then I shake it out and rub everything down again with IPA. This will take several rags. Rub until clean. This removes any sheen and exposes the native metal. This by far gives me the best adhesion.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145091&d=1616623806

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145092&d=1616623825

I then pack up all the panels I am doing in that batch and roll them up in clean paper. I've been using the packing paper that comes in all the FFR boxes. Each piece gets test fit in the oven then pre baked at 400 for about ten minutes. It doesn't take long for them to get hot. Take them out, let then cool and shoot. The Harbor Freight gun has some quirks (I mean it was like $50 with a coupon) Depending on the angle you tip it is how much powder comes out. The nice thing is I've started using this as a feature. It helps even out the coats. I could definitely see if I was to do this with any kind of regularity why you would want a quality gun. But for this project if I was to spend real money on a powder coating system I mind as well just pay someone else to do it.

Practicing has helped a lot. I now recognize what an even proper coat looks like before it goes in the oven. I've only dealt in one color. I have others so we will see but the product is greatly improved I am quite happy with the results. Metal prep is the key I think it's 90% of getting a good finish

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145093&d=1616623846

[NYMike]

FFR has clearly moved on to a new accelerator pedal since the manual was published. it's unclear how to move the pedal leg. I eventually figured out you had to remove the spline from the pedal body but you need to use a little force


That took us a while to figure out too and even longer to actually force it apart without destroying it after we figured it out. They said the angle could be matched later in the car too, but I don't know how I would get it apart without removing it from the car. Hopefully it wont come to that.

Your powder coating looks great and I'm jealous! A separate oven is not in the cards for me so its not something we are going to be able to do on our build.

[Blitzboy54]

That took us a while to figure out too and even longer to actually force it apart without destroying it after we figured it out. They said the angle could be matched later in the car too, but I don't know how I would get it apart without removing it from the car. Hopefully it wont come to that.

Your powder coating looks great and I'm jealous! A separate oven is not in the cards for me so its not something we are going to be able to do on our build.

Thank you,

Yeah I made my best guess based on what other build threads looked like and the manual. Agreed if you have to adjust it you need to take it back out. That's why my drivers footbox won't have the outer panel installed until I am passed having a running motor.

[BeePea]

I hated that stupid accelerator pedal, I dinged it up trying to get it in the right position. On the flip side, drilling the holes in the differential was not problem at all, which I have seen quite a few others complain about it.

[frankeeski]

a bunch of PC cracked and came off when I torqued it. I’ll POR 15 it but again it won’t match because the satin finish.

POR makes a chassis black spray top coat. It's a really good match for the satin F5R PC.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145141&d=1616737361

[Blitzboy54]

When I got home from work Friday I had a surprise. The rear brakes I ordered from Gordon Levy arrived. Interestingly the brakes from FFR that were ordered a month earlier are still MIA.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145281&d=1616967617

The FFR offering is a single piston with an integrated parking brake. As it turns out my 17" wheels were a touch too small for those so I am using these instead, they are 4 piston on the same 12.19" rotor with an shoe for a parking brake. I had to remove the axles to get the shoe assy on. I then refitted everything and adjusted the shoe to the rotor. I figured out after that this actually would have been a lot easier off the car. Just put the rotor on the bench then adjust the nut most of the way and finish the last few turns on the car. That's not what I did but what I would do if I was to do it again. The rotor had to come on and off a lot the way I did it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145283&d=1616967679

After getting it set the way I wanted I measured the gap so I could pre set the second one and make life a bit easier.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145282&d=1616967663

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145284&d=1616967695

I have it so the shoe contacts the rotor and stops about 1/3 of the actuator travel while pulling it by hand. I may have to fine tune it later but it's close and I might get lucky. If not I will have to take the rotors back off but only once.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145285&d=1616967723

[Blitzboy54]

The instructions were really clear and easy to follow. These are not floating rotors so they need to be centered. The kit comes with a number of .031" shims. Center the caliper on the rotor and then torque down and use blue thread lock. It has an 1/8 NPT to AN fitting. I used a little thread tape on the NPT side, installed the pads from up top and put in the cotter pin.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145286&d=1616967759

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145287&d=1616967772

I mocked up my wheel because I really wanted to see how she would look. I'm pretty happy with it. I have about 1/2" clearance between the upper tire and the coil over spring. In a car like this that seems like plenty.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145288&d=1616967794

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145289&d=1616967811

On another note. I finished pretty much all my aluminum panel powder coating and prep so I can start installing footbox panels as early as tomorrow. I will chip away at it this week. My I have Easter week off from work and my dad is coming up for the holiday and to help work on the car for 4 or 5 days. Really looking forward to working on it together

I also "installed" this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145290&d=1616972340

[Blitzboy54]

Got the passenger side aluminum installed. The dumb thing I discovered i did was by pre installing my heater I cannot access the 2 rivet holes that are under the upper footbox. When I put the heater in I fully sealed it and do not want to take it back out. So I used a couple black button head screws. Not a big deal but something to avoid for future builders.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145367&d=1617072222

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145369&d=1617072258

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145368&d=1617072239

[NYMike]

So jealous that you have brakes. The wheels and panels look incredible! Those wheels are going to look awesome with the body on. Beer fridge is definitely a good addition to the build.

[BeePea]

So jealous that you have brakes. The wheels and panels look incredible! Those wheels are going to look awesome with the body on. Beer fridge is definitely a good addition to the build.

I agree on all 3 counts!

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks guys! The beer fridge has been a solid addition.

[Blitzboy54]

First thing I was able to get ironed out this week was to fix a mistake. Myself and at least one other builder were struggling with the pedal rubbing against the aluminum of the inner footbox wall. It seemed weird because I've read a lot of build threads and not seen it as an issue. Then I figured I must have received a newer pedal and this is a recent problem. Well, it was neither, simply when I took the pedal apart to set the arm I reversed it. I had the arm on the left and pedal on the right. I took it back apart and now it fits just fine. FYI to any future builders. It's a little thing but it took me longer than I would like to admit to figure out.

This is the correct orientation

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145606&d=1617500514

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145600&d=1617499295

Completed as much driver footbox as I care to for a while. I test fit the rest but tucked it away for later. I can see that gap management will be a thing. Some of these gaps will require me to fabricate some pieces from scrap aluminum. However I can see I will need a water sealing solution. I think I may use a spray on sealer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145601&d=1617499328

I'm on to the cockpit. I plan to put my charging ports behind the transmission tunnel on the u joint cover. I've seen it done. If anyone knows why this would be terrible mistake please let me know.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145603&d=1617499384

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145602&d=1617499363

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145604&d=1617499399

[460.465USMC]

I also "installed" this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145290&d=1616972340

Best addition yet! :p

[BeePea]

This thing is starting to look like a car! I'm happy and jealous. Congrats and nice work!

[Blitzboy54]

Best addition yet!

Thanks Chris! It’s been a nice addition, if the garage door is open my friends know to pop in. Wife has been spending time hanging out too.



This thing is starting to look like a car! I'm happy and jealous. Congrats and nice work!

Thanks man. Take your time and enjoy the journey. I had a head start and have had an unusual amount of time to work on it. My dad is out this week so it’s going to be a full weeks worth, but I expect things to slow down soon. I appreciate the kind words

[NYMike]

Completed as much driver footbox as I car to for a while. I test fit the rest but tucked it away for later. I can see that gap management will be a thing. Some of these gaps will require me to fabricate some pieces from scrap aluminum. However I can see I will need a water sealing solution. I think I may use a spray on sealer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145601&d=1617499328

I'm on to the cockpit. I plan to put my charging ports behind the transmission tunnel on the u joint cover. I've seen it done. If anyone knows why this would be terrible mistake please let me know.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145604&d=1617499399

Your black panels look great! Its really coming together. We are probably going to use some silicone and HVAC tape to seal some of those smaller gaps and scrap aluminum like you said for the bigger ones.

I really like that idea for the charging ports. My only concern would be the back side getting wet under the car. Not sure if that is actually an issue though. Where did you get the charging ports from?

[Blitzboy54]

Your black panels look great! Its really coming together. We are probably going to use some silicone and HVAC tape to seal some of those smaller gaps and scrap aluminum like you said for the bigger ones.

I really like that idea for the charging ports. My only concern would be the back side getting wet under the car. Not sure if that is actually an issue though. Where did you get the charging ports from?


I don’t think it will be an issue honestly. Everything is sealed plastics and I plan to use heat shrink over the connections.

This is the port I used. I originally got the link from Terry in LV. It’s what he used. I considered putting it in the dash but I’m installing a cubby and thought I could tuck the phones in there while charging. It’s been done both ways.

Ginsco Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Dual USB 2A/1A Charger Power Adapter Outlet for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV DIY Kit (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B79F8CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XRSZN7PDQN2C2C3XC9EJ?_ encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[Blitzboy54]

Been wrenching a lot the last few days. I'll have a lot of updates in the next week or so. I was hoping to get my motor back in the shop this week but the shop called and there are unfortunately a few setbacks. I'm probably a couple weeks out before I get it home.

I manged to finish the cockpit aluminum, up to the point of moving on to breaks and fuel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145773&d=1617765362

Interestingly enough I have been using gloss black from Prismatic Poweders. The 2lbs I originally ordered were getting low so I ordered more. I filled up my hopper and coated my battery box. After baking it it was a satin finish. I reached out with pics and they apologized. They accidentally sent me "stone black". it turned out to be a happy accident because I love it. I plan to use it for the wheel wells. I coated the back of the seat panels with it since they sort of act as the front of the wheel well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145774&d=1617765389

The fuel tank is installed and like everyone else we went with a longer bolt. Ordered a bunch of HW including Kleiner Mod parts. Also ran the fuel hard lines

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145775&d=1617765417

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145776&d=1617765467

[egchewy79]

looking good. good catch on the back of the cockpit aluminum. I didn't recognize that the backs of the rear wall would be the front of the wheel well until the panels were on. I had to tape them off and sprayed them w/ bed liner to match the rear splash panels.

[BeePea]

Very nice and clean! My box 15 with tank should arrive this week, I'm excited to do some more wrenching and not sheet metal work. I did build my e-brake, that was fun. Your panels are looking really clean, and I love the fuel lines on the passenger footbox, very jealous!

[Blitzboy54]

Very nice and clean! My box 15 with tank should arrive this week, I'm excited to do some more wrenching and not sheet metal work. I did build my e-brake, that was fun. Your panels are looking really clean, and I love the fuel lines on the passenger footbox, very jealous!

Thanks man!

[Blitzboy54]

We started putting in the brake lines and all in all went pretty smooth. I tried to avoid routing in a way that left a lot of "service loops". My only real tip is the brake line is really easy to manipulate. I found a large socket worked better than the tube bender for tight turns.

My dad is out this week and we've been getting a lot done. It's been fun putzing around the garage together. Really moving along.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145861&d=1617851895

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145862&d=1617851921

I couldn't find a route for the rear that I liked. A lot of guys go through the footbox and that was my first choice but it requires manipulating the line in a way that is difficult without a lift. I also didn't want the line in front of the footbox. This is my solution was to run down the lower 3/4 tube to the "F" panel and then drop straight down to the 4" main tube and run all the way back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145863&d=1617851964

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145864&d=1617852025

My Wilwoods will be here Friday. Yay but I don't have spindles or a stearing rack so they will stay in the box for a while.

[Blitzboy54]

I am running a Holley Sniper, when I ordered it I also purchased the complete kit. This included the fuel pump, filters and lines. A lot of builders run an in tank pump and I think that is probably the best option but since I already purchased the external setup I am going to run with it. The first real problem is I need to be below the fuel tank. If I was running IRS there is a bracket to attach to but not with the live axle. This is my solution. I am running it below the seat pan. I used button head screws and some spacers. I plan to make a steal plate and install nutserts to make it removable. This will protect it from stray debris. A lot of cars run the pumps in this area but these cars run low to the ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145867&d=1617852140

There wasn't enough room for both filters so we mounted the first one just outside the tank

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145866&d=1617852112

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145865&d=1617852086

[Fman]

Jesse nice to see you and your dad working on the car together. I had some build days with my dad too, will always remember those times with him.

Keep up the good work!

[JB in NOVA]

I couldn't find a route for the rear that I liked. A lot of guys go through the footbox and that was my first choice but it requires manipulating the line in a way that is difficult without a lift. I also didn't want the line in front of the footbox. This is my solution was to run down the lower 3/4 tube to the "F" panel and then drop straight down to the 4" main tube and run all the way back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145863&d=1617851964


That's what I did, too. Works just fine.

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse nice to see you and your dad working on the car together. I had some build days with my dad too, will always remember those times with him.

Keep up the good work!

Thank you, it was a good week.

[Blitzboy54]

My whirlwind week continues. Now that the brake lines are finished we spent some time dialing in the front pedal setup. We narrowed the gap between the front and rear master cylinders to 0.23' that puts us in spec on slack. We also set the pedal height, rough set the bias and tested the clutch and break switches. Once that was settled it was time to move on to the reservoirs. Like a lot of you I mocked it up in front of the pedal box. It was fun to "fabricate" something. Even as simple as this

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145941&d=1617930269

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145942&d=1617930309

Powder coated and picked up some nice button head screws. As luck would have it a True Value opened up a half mile from my house this winter. It's been fantastic. I live in the hardware section.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145943&d=1617930324

[Blitzboy54]

We pulled out the Ron Francis wiring harness and started setting that up. The fuse box wouldn't fit correctly in the bracket. What we found was there is the relay for the inertia switch is attached from the factory with a screw. It was placed incorrectly. We backed the screw out and re attached. now everything fits correctly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145944&d=1617930387

I added a couple of zip ties to keep the trunk off the steering shaft. I also connected the pedal box ground and both pedal switches. I have 1.2 ohms resistance from the far end of the loom the chassis at the seat pan. I get .8 ohms to the same spot from the ground lug so I feel pretty good about it. In my experience weird things happen if your don't have a clean ground

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145946&d=1617930566

Everything is laid out and roughed in. They make it pretty easy. Like most people there are elements of this build I am not particularly confident about, wiring is something I am pretty comfortable with. This guarantees I will have a problem. LOL

Also installed the Breeze battery box. Solid piece and those SS rivets are no joke.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145948&d=1617930782

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145945&d=1617930509

My dad and I rewarded ourselves for our productive week by mocking up the dash. It really makes it look like a car. I have to start thinking about how I want to lay it out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145947&d=1617930602

[BeePea]

You're making nice progress, great work. Everything is looking really clean.

[hineas]

Your build is looking great!

Are you going to do the Kleiner mod on the rear body mount bolts? Somebody reminded me to do it before I did the trunk aluminum and I really appreciated the reminder.

[Blitzboy54]

Your build is looking great!

Are you going to do the Kleiner mod on the rear body mount bolts? Somebody reminded me to do it before I did the trunk aluminum and I really appreciated the reminder.


Yes sir. I just ordered the couplers and rods from McMaster Carr. I could not find it locally oddly enough. Thanks for the reminder

[BeePea]

Jesse, just sent you a PM

[hineas]

I'm glad you ordered them. I didn't understand how useful the modification was until I played with the quick jack bolts after installing the gas tank. Now I completely understand why the mod is so popular!

[JB in NOVA]

I'm glad you ordered them. I didn't understand how useful the modification was until I played with the quick jack bolts after installing the gas tank. Now I completely understand why the mod is so popular!

If you plan to do a "drop trunk" mod, the Kleiner mod is pretty much mandatory. You lose a lot of access to the space between the trunk and the gas-tank/body with the drop-trunk mod. The Kleiner mod really comes in handy.

[BadAsp427]

The build is coming along really nicely. Cool to see that your dad is also able to help out. I noticed in one of the photos that you mounted the steering rod bearing on the outside of your foot box. You may want to consider putting that on the inside of the foot box. This extra 1/4" or so is very helpful when working with the steering rod installation. Just an observation that could save you a bit of hassle.

[Blitzboy54]

The build is coming along really nicely. Cool to see that your dad is also able to help out. I noticed in one of the photos that you mounted the steering rod bearing on the outside of your foot box. You may want to consider putting that on the inside of the foot box. This extra 1/4" or so is very helpful when working with the steering rod installation. Just an observation that could save you a bit of hassle.


Really appreciate the advice and will do! I’ll switch it when I get my steering rack.

Thanks

[Blitzboy54]

Alright it's been a minute. i spent a lot of time looking at and planning my dash. For me this one area I want to put my own signature on. At the end of the day the only FFR supplied switches I am going to use are headlights and the heater. I really like the headlight switch and changing the heater switch is impractical although not impossible. After planning out what switches I want and how I plan to power them I went back through my harness layout. I permanently mounted my rear harness.

My Wilwoods arrived this week. I test fit the fronts in the empty wheel and they fit great. They will be in the box for a while as I've been told not to expect spindles until June. FFR is sending me a return label for the rear brakes I can't use. Another classy touch in my opinion as shipping these kits is not cheap.

I don't have seats yet so I have this really cool backpacking chair that uses a Thermorest that sits in a shell. I haven't used it in years but man it was perfect for getting me in position so I could find dash layout that works best for me. I just noticed the rear corner of my transmission tunnel is not riveted correctly. The tab is supposed to be under the tunnel cover. I will drill out the rivets and fix it tomorrow

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146373&d=1618533260

This is what I am going to go with. This is a rough layout I will be measuring and making everything symmetrical. Also I received my leather hide. I am going to do the dash transmission cover and tunnel sides in leather.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146374&d=1618533279

While waiting for some of the switches I ordered to arrive I decided to work on the drop trunk. Since I had to drop the gas tank anyhow to get the Kleiner bolts in for the quick jacks (passenger side bottom won't clear the tank) it made sense to do the drop trunk as well.

I have to say this was quite a project. I have been surprised at some of the things that have been easier than I expected, this was the opposite. It was really challenging figuring out how to get everything lined up especially with the gas tank basically loose. The other thing I didn't think about was all the metal shavings that end up all over the gas tank. Now that I've done it I'm sure it would be easier a second time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146370&d=1618533151

I know the pan is supposed to not go over the top corner but in order to get the cutout to center over my sending unit that was the best location.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146371&d=1618533185

The final product was not my best work but will be carpeted so any lapse in craftsmanship will be covered up. But it's in and I'm generally happy with it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146372&d=1618533227

[BeePea]

Nice work Jessie, I have similar thoughts around my drop trunk install, but like you said, it will be covered (and in the trunk...). Nice progress!

[Blitzboy54]

I've spent most of the week working on getting the dash mocked up. I had a few early challenges to work out. The horn button I've opted to use is smaller than the pre cut hole that came with my dash. I swapped the horn and ignition because it was a better layout for the buttons I've opted to use. The other issue I had was I purchased from another builder the original FFR ignition with the branded keys. The precut hole for the other ignition is too small. No big deal but I had a friend stop over and i wasn't paying close enough attention and drilled out the wrong hole so I had to come up with a solution for that. I could have just swapped the ignition and the headlights but I just didn't like it. In retrospect if I was to do this again I would probably get a blank dash and go from there.

I used some scrap aluminum and JB Weld to get started. The horn button is only slightly smaller so I pre drilled it then cut it out. For my ignition mistake I put a blank plate behind the hole and then cut another piece to fit inside and glued it in. I don't own any hole saws, they are very expensive and I didn't want to spend the money for a single job so I used snipers instead.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146499&d=1618781037

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146501&d=1618781251

I then used body filler (bondo) and sanded everything smooth. For some reason in the pre cut dash there are lots of little 1/8 holes all over the place. I don't know what purpose they serve but i filled those in as well. Well, almost I missed one up near the water temp gauge but I plan to implement hidden brackets for the upper dash mounts ala edwardb and fman (I'm sure lots of other builders too) so I will fill it when I cover up those holes. I put key notches in for the ignition and headlight switch to help keep them from rotating

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146500&d=1618781102

This is what I'm running with. The 3 holes between the tach and speedo are for the turn signal and high beam indicators. I'm using LED's that have not arrived yet. I am also waiting on my foam and adhesive to arrive. I am going to upholster it in leather and use the exact method that edwardb highlighted in his anniversary build. I have some test pieces of aluminum and and some scrap leather that I plan to practice with.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146503&d=1618781315

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146509&d=1618784105

This has been a really fun part of the build so far. Even with the mistakes. Also anyone with any real world experience with the precut dash has any input on my gauge locations I would appreciate any feedback.

[egchewy79]

FWIW others have pointed out that the speedo is more visible when positioned on the R of the steering column.

[John Ibele]

Great progress. I thought doing the dash layout was a lot of fun. I had more flexibility (and therefore more opportunity for bad layout decisions) with a blank dash as a starting point. I think your knobs and switches are thoughtfully laid out from the front view. Make sure things are adequately separated in the back - check to make sure you can plug in the headlight plug right below the electrical gauge.

You can get a carbon copy of the light / wiper knobs and use it on the heater. At first I thought there was something special about the heater knob, and had visions of having to use epoxy / mold-making ... or some other elaborate scheme to get a better looking knob on the heater. But on close inspection its just basically a set screw engaged in a slot in the shaft that does the work.

I don't have your layout, but personal preference for me in terms of visibility / proximity would be oil pressure, water temp, volts, fuel, and oil temp. I don't think you're going to be monitoring oil temp unless you're in an endurance race with a lot of time at sustained high RPM.

One final tip: if you place the dash face down after leather application, make sure the weight / pressure is ALWAYS very evenly distributed across the dash face. Not only the days / weeks you have the dash down on towels when you're doing the dash wiring, but also the minutes / hours when you're hooking the dash up to the main harness and installing. Ask me how I know. :rolleyes:

[Blitzboy54]

FWIW others have pointed out that the speedo is more visible when positioned on the R of the steering column.

Yes, I think you are right. Great point, thank you


Great progress. I thought doing the dash layout was a lot of fun. I had more flexibility (and therefore more opportunity for bad layout decisions) with a blank dash as a starting point. I think your knobs and switches are thoughtfully laid out from the front view. Make sure things are adequately separated in the back - check to make sure you can plug in the headlight plug right below the electrical gauge.

You can get a carbon copy of the light / wiper knobs and use it on the heater. At first I thought there was something special about the heater knob, and had visions of having to use epoxy / mold-making ... or some other elaborate scheme to get a better looking knob on the heater. But on close inspection its just basically a set screw engaged in a slot in the shaft that does the work.

I don't have your layout, but personal preference for me in terms of visibility / proximity would be oil pressure, water temp, volts, fuel, and oil temp. I don't think you're going to be monitoring oil temp unless you're in an endurance race with a lot of time at sustained high RPM.

One final tip: if you place the dash face down after leather application, make sure the weight / pressure is ALWAYS very evenly distributed across the dash face. Not only the days / weeks you have the dash down on towels when you're doing the dash wiring, but also the minutes / hours when you're hooking the dash up to the main harness and installing. Ask me how I know. :rolleyes:

I have the stand for the dash and generally plan to use that. But what am I avoiding, does the foam shift? I've not heard laying it down is an issue. I appreciate the heads up, your leather work is excellent. On the spacing I spent quite a bit of time making sure it would all fit. My only "compromise" is I rotated the headlight switch 90 deg to best fit all the wiring. I'm a tiny bit concerned that my defroster is going to be an issue but that's down the line and I don't have louvers yet so I can't mock it up.

I had not considered changing the heater knob, now I'm intrigued.

[John Ibele]

Hmm ... maybe we're stuck on two uses of the term 'laying it down'. It applied just fine and stays in place. And when it's all done it does exactly what you want ... when you push on it, it gives. You push on it hard with a sharp edge for long enough, you're going to leave a permanent dent that won't bounce back. That's all. And it took a lot less than I thought, in weight and time, to do that.

90 deg ... really good idea, and worst case, I'm going to have to do some time-consuming work from the back side with the Dremel to do that. I think flag terminals will fit though.

Heater knob, I remember now ... there's an allen screw hidden deep in all that tacky plastic. Loosen that up and you can take the knob off and see that it's a lot less than what you thought. And, you can see that the shaft not only has the 'D' shape in cross section, they also put another flat on it so that the pull / push function isn't going to result in the handle coming off in your hand.

[NYMike]

Looks really nice! The buttons you picked are going to look great with the leather dash.

[hineas]

Things are looking great! We will be starting our dash and doing the drop trunk fairly soon (if I ever get time to get back to the car--work gets in the way). It's nice to see your solutions before I do it!

[Blitzboy54]

Does anyone living in the Northeast know why it's winter again? It's April 22nd and it has snowed twice this week. TWICE!!

I am learning a ton. I almost never make the same mistake twice but I make almost all of them once. I stripped down my dash and made brackets for my hidden dash mounts. I used 6-32 pan head screws per Paul's recommendation and counter sunk the holes on the dash. I used a counter sink tool i use to clean up burrs and wouldn't you know it i over did it and the screws slipped right through. DOH! So I move up a size and ground down the heads to make them flush. I used rivnuts in the bottom of the hoop. I made some brackets with steel stock I had lying around and secured them to the frame with 1/4 20's. The dash is now very secure. I moved the car around my garage a bit just using the grab bar and nothing else flexes so I am feeling pretty good about it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146725&d=1619144166

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146721&d=1619143635

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146722&d=1619143652

Next I will take it down, powder coat the brackets, then upholster the dash. Then start putting it together for good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146720&d=1619143613

So far the only thing I would go back and tell 2 months ago Jesse is don't use gloss black on the engine bay panels. it's already a pain to keep clean and finger print free and it doesn't have an engine in it yet. I am building a driver not a show car so I wish I had given that more thought. It's not a real big deal. On the bright side this has been as much fun as i hoped it would be

I got an update from FFR on my POL. The only real surprise is my Kirkey seats have no eta. I guess they are having some real supplier issues too. So since I am stuck with my camping chair for a while I upgraded it to leather (no that's not my dash leather)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146723&d=1619143675

Last I was sorting out some aluminum and I saw this. It's listed as a fuse panel bracket. Is it safe to assume this is for a donor harness perhaps? I'm not clear what it's for and I don't see it anywhere in the manual.

Thanks

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146724&d=1619143702

[BeePea]

Nice work on the dash, things are looking great!

I'm seeing dust/more on my panels as well, it's a bummer for sure.

[John Ibele]

Last I was sorting out some aluminum and I saw this. It's listed as a fuse panel bracket. Is it safe to assume this is for a donor harness perhaps? I'm not clear what it's for and I don't see it anywhere in the manual.



You're looking in the manual for the wiring harness, correct? I don't know if there's more than one version of this panel in your kit, but you need this to hold the fuse panel which is connected to the main harness up on the top of your DS footbox.

Here's a link to a photo of Fman's (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-Dart-427-build-9818-Nor-Cal-More-driving-miles-and-cockpit-heat&p=419238&viewfull=1#post419238) in his build thread.

[Blitzboy54]

You're looking in the manual for the wiring harness, correct? I don't know if there's more than one version of this panel in your kit, but you need this to hold the fuse panel which is connected to the main harness up on the top of your DS footbox.

Here's a link to a photo of Fman's (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-Dart-427-build-9818-Nor-Cal-More-driving-miles-and-cockpit-heat&p=419238&viewfull=1#post419238) in his build thread.

Thanks John, The RF harness had an aluminum mount packed with it for the fuse box. I used it. The pic is a close up, but it's in there. I think I must have either received 2 or its for the donor harness.

146831

As an aside, I'm taking on the upholstery this weekend, definitely a little nervous. If it comes out half as good as yours I'll be happy.

[John Ibele]

Looks like you’re set - good luck with the weekend project!

[Blitzboy54]

So this for me was the most stressful part of the build BY A MILE! If you screw up the dash there really isn't any hiding it. I knew at the beginning of last week I was gearing up to do this and the closer it got the more it was on my mind. Going in I had an idea of what I wanted to do and how I thought I wanted to do it but I have never upholstered anything in my life and you just don't know what you don't know. Right out front I want to thank Paul (edwardb) and John Ibele for so thoroughly documenting their experience. It was an enormous help.

I started using the Landau Top and Trim like a lot of other builders including the fellas I just mentioned. Like Paul has said it's meant for a spray gun but can be brushed on. When I went to purchase it I found it is now available in a spray can (score!) so I went that route. On Friday I started testing it with scrap pieces of aluminum and leather and I am glad I did. I found the spray version to have issues. The product itself is fine but the spray can isn't awesome. It comes out clumpy and sprays very inconsistently. This was my experience your mileage may vary. Since I didn't have any more on hand I picked up both some 3M super 77 and 3M 90. I ended up using the latter. So after about 10 different experiments I went for it.

I used paper to trace out my bigger holes and set them in with the dash lying face down on the leather. I have a layer of 1/8' upholstery foam from yourautotrim.com glued to the dash. Now with everything masked off it was time to spray.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147015&d=1619565994

You have like 3 minutes before you are in the tacky zone. I carefully laid it down then hand pressed it and finished it off with a hobby roller

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YDNKSH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147016&d=1619566011

After letting that dry overnight I carefully worked the holes with a hobby razor knife. Like everyone else has said buy extra blades the leather is tough on them. I re masked in sections and after cutting my pie pieces started folding it over. This is where you can learn from my experience. I cut my first pie section all the way to the edge of the dash metal. DO NOT DO THIS!!! When you fold it over you see the metal underneath. Thankfully I was at least smart enough to do it in an area that is tucked into the car and can't be seen. Leave at least an 1/8th of an inch (probably more) of material around the dash to stop your pie cuts.

The other thing to keep in mind that I had not previously picked up on others builds is the dash is significantly thicker with the foam and leather. I mocked up my dash on bare aluminum, all the switches fit (the ignition is a VERY tight fit). The only real casualty is the grab bar I purchased has really long stand offs. I cut them down but now that the dash is thicker I think they are too short. So I may need purchase a replacement. So account for that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147018&d=1619566039

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147017&d=1619566025

All in all I am very pleased with how it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147019&d=1619566056

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147020&d=1619566077

Like this entire experience I learned so much and would be better at it the next time, but this was my first "Built Not Bought" moment. I feel like I accomplished something significant. It feels great.

For anyone looking to use leather I picked up a hide that was a tremendous value. I can't remember who I got the tip from, I think Fman but it could have been edwardb (or any number of other builders). It's an entire hide and the quality is excellent.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162592582983

[nucjd19]

Excellent build thread BLitz! I just got caught up on it. Keep on cruising. You will be go karting in no time. Like you my biggest issue for slowing me down is the POL. Also my other issue slowing me down is analysis paralysis..... Too many options to do one thing that has ramifications down the road so I sit on it and ponder too long.

[John Ibele]

Well, that was a successful weekend! Congrats on a big milestone - it's definitely a 'built not bought' item, and the first finished part of the interior that you get to see. The next goofy milestone is sitting in your car, in the dark, in the garage, enjoying the gauge lighting :rolleyes:

[Fman]

That dash turned out excellent, very nice job!:cool:

I really like how each builder does there own recipe on the dash layout.

[Blitzboy54]

Well, that was a successful weekend! Congrats on a big milestone - it's definitely a 'built not bought' item, and the first finished part of the interior that you get to see. The next goofy milestone is sitting in your car, in the dark, in the garage, enjoying the gauge lighting :rolleyes:

I'm really looking forward to that part for sure

[John Ibele]

Just noticed a couple things. First, really nice work, it looks great. I picked the vintage gauges but the Auto Meters really pop and have a more race-ready look. Nice. I also like the simplicity of the layout.

Second thing, particularly since I don't see a warning light, for your small gauges I would have water temp and oil pressure closest to me. That way you have 'something's not right' and 'pull over now' gauges closest. After that probably volts and fuel, then oil temp last unless you're planning on long stints at high RPM. FWIW.

[Blitzboy54]

Just noticed a couple things. First, really nice work, it looks great. I picked the vintage gauges but the Auto Meters really pop and have a more race-ready look. Nice. I also like the simplicity of the layout.

Second thing, particularly since I don't see a warning light, for your small gauges I would have water temp and oil pressure closest to me. That way you have 'something's not right' and 'pull over now' gauges closest. After that probably volts and fuel, then oil temp last unless you're planning on long stints at high RPM. FWIW.

Thanks John

All good points. I thought about warning lights but the gauges are right there, although I could easily add a red indicator. I used the same line of thinking. While sitting in the cockpit my eyes were naturally up to that first row. The first 2 gauges on the top row are the ones I see best. I agree those are the two most critical and for me most in my line of site.

[NYMike]

Congrats Jesse! You did a great job. It looks amazing.

[BeePea]

The dash is a huge accomplishment (speaking from someone who hasn't done it yet...) You did a great job, really like the look of it. Nicely done!

[460.465USMC]

Nice, Jesse! Looks great!

[Blitzboy54]

While I was in mid dash assembly my steering rack arrived. It's nice to get that in as I am able to finish installing the steering shaft as well. It's good timing as the dash will be going back in relatively soon. Per a recommendation from a fellow builder (BadAsp427) I reversed the footbox bearing to create more room. Everything is centered and fits real nice. Looking forward to getting spindles in June so I can make her a roller. I am roughly 2 weeks out from my motor getting dyno'ed. would love to get that back in my garage and prepped for install soon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147184&d=1619970634

One thing that came up on the dash post upholstery is the heater switch is not designed to be keyed. I put a grip washer in it but it takes quite a bit of force to turn the fan on and I could never get the switch tight enough not to turn. This was my solution. It's not pretty but it works pretty well. I just bent some spare aluminum and used JB weld. Now I can turn the switch all I want and it sits nice and still.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147185&d=1619970663

I finished the dash wiring minus a few odds and ends I plan to button up this week. The fan override, the cockpit lights, LED module and the charging port. Once that's complete I will be ready to bolt the dash on. One of the best $7 I've spent is on this little guy. It's a simple 12v power supply with open leads. This has allowed me to test everything along the way and I highly recommend it. It's already paid for itself several times over.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AZLA9XQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147187&d=1619970701

Here she is with all the running lights on

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147188&d=1619970735

I was also able to test the self canceling turn signals that I was introduced to on Papa's build. If you are interested you should check out his thread. It's terrific in general but anything electrical Papa's threads are pure gold. Everything you need is in here including PN's, instructions and a schematic (because Dave is awesome). The hazards will work when both buttons are pushed and the key is on. The switch works with the ignition off.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30959-Signal-Dynamics-Self-Canceling-Turn-Signal-Module-Question&highlight=signal+dynamics

I pulled the turn signal relay and added a jumper in the fuse box. I was able to test the signals with the power supply. I made a video, because why not.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySLF8zQ_s3g

[Blitzboy54]

Wiring, wiring and more wiring. It has a little bit of riveting feel in the early stages. I now have everything either terminated or staged. I have tested most of the circuits individually. I have a few more small items to button up. Mocking up my backup lights will wrap the electrical until I get the motor in.

I tested my interior lighting. Going with red LED's in the foot boxes and cubby and white LED's in the trunk. I am working on a center console/glove box that will probably have an internal light as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147414&d=1620265637

I ran wiring to the rear for reverse light and the cubby / trunk lights. got everything fed into the loom then cleaned up and mounted. Connect the sending unit portion of the harness and ran it through the firewall and drilled a hole for the heater cable and fitted it with a grommet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147416&d=1620265704

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147417&d=1620265725

I organized the harness and made the rest of the dash connections.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147415&d=1620265681

I made some final adjustments on my steering shaft and wheel. I get a dead even number of turns in each direction, my total length is a touch over 53' and my exposed threads to the jam nut are even on both sides.

I then sat in the cockpit and made vroom noises until it was time to come in the house.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147418&d=1620265742

[NYMike]

Wiring looks really nice. I'm looking forward to seeing your reverse light solution. I have some ideas for mine but they're not fully baked yet.

[Blitzboy54]

Wiring looks really nice. I'm looking forward to seeing your reverse light solution. I have some ideas for mine but they're not fully baked yet.

I should have it mocked up by Sunday. Interestingly enough I purchased my backup lights before I ordered a kit. I was poking around the forum and I found an old post with a NY builder who's solution I liked. He had a link to the lights he bought so I purchased them. They were inexpensive but I had to buy 10 so if you like them let me know I can mail you down my leftovers. :)

[BeePea]

I should have it mocked up by Sunday. Interestingly enough I purchased my backup lights before I ordered a kit. I was poking around the forum and I found an old post with a NY builder who's solution I liked. He had a link to the lights he bought so I purchased them. They were inexpensive but I had to buy 10 so if you like them let me know I can mail you down my leftovers. :)

Dumb question, but why do we care about updating the backup lights? Does the kit not come with them and I didn't notice?

[hineas]

I then sat in the cockpit and made vroom noises until it was time to come in the

This made me smile. Especially since we have done exactly the same thing! We even unpacked our seats so we could sit in them while making vroom noises... I do like your solution for a temporary seat!

I am also jealous you have a steering wheel.

And I'm jealous you have the steering rack.

Your build is looking great! Keep up the good work!

[Blitzboy54]

Dumb question, but why do we care about updating the backup lights? Does the kit not come with them and I didn't notice?

The kit does not come with them. The original did not have them and it depends on your state as to whether they are needed. So it’s up to the individual builder how they want to do it, same with the 3rd brake light (NY does not require a 3rd brake light)

[Blitzboy54]

This made me smile. Especially since we have done exactly the same thing! We even unpacked our seats so we could sit in them while making vroom noises... I do like your solution for a temporary seat!

I am also jealous you have a steering wheel.

And I'm jealous you have the steering rack.

Your build is looking great! Keep up the good work!

I’m jealous you have a motor. Lol

I appreciate the kind words. It feels a lot like we (those of us in the same build cycle) are all in the same class. Like high school or boot camp. Really adds to the enjoyment of the board for me. We are becoming “cobra friends”

[NYMike]

I should have it mocked up by Sunday. Interestingly enough I purchased my backup lights before I ordered a kit. I was poking around the forum and I found an old post with a NY builder who's solution I liked. He had a link to the lights he bought so I purchased them. They were inexpensive but I had to buy 10 so if you like them let me know I can mail you down my leftovers. :)

Interesting. I’ll keep an eye out for your post. Might have to take you up on that.


I’m jealous you have a motor. Lol

I appreciate the kind words. It feels a lot like we (those of us in the same build cycle) are all in the same class. Like high school or boot camp. Really adds to the enjoyment of the board for me. We are becoming “cobra friends”

Love this. Its so true. It’s been so much fun following along with you guys as we all work through our builds together. This place is such a great community.

[hineas]

I’m jealous you have a motor. Lol

I appreciate the kind words. It feels a lot like we (those of us in the same build cycle) are all in the same class. Like high school or boot camp. Really adds to the enjoyment of the board for me. We are becoming “cobra friends”

This is so true! I keep telling my brother to join. I also tell him all about the others that are in the same build cycle and how much I have learned from all of you.

Any update on a timeliness for your motor?

[Blitzboy54]

Yeah, I seem to be perpetually two weeks away. There have been a number of no fault setbacks and like everyone else that needs parts there are supply issues. He is also slammed because everyone (I mean everyone) seems to be doing an engine projects. Having said all that if I tell him my motor is gating the build he will prioritize it.

It should be soon. It’s being dyno’d with a carb and vacuum distributor. I need to finish dressing the motor then put the EFI stuff on it.

[hineas]

Isn't that the truth!

That is exciting that it is being dyno'd! I can wait to see it!

[Blitzboy54]

I didn't get to work on the car much this week. I was able to finally visit my grandmother (She's 96) in Boston. Everyone is vaccinated now so it was a real treat to spend a couple days with her. I won't bore you with the details but really all you need to know is she's the best. Then with mothers day there was just other things to focus on.

I did manage to get my backup lights sorted

I picked up a Ron Francis plug for my T5 backup switch. I still need to attach a shifter to it to test the circuit closes when in reverse. (will do that this week)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147573&d=1620594374

I pick up these LED's on Amazon. They are DOT compliant, narrow and easy to hide.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4KRJ9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I attached them to a piece of steel stock that I picked up from the HW store. I plan to powder coat them mat black and will seal the wires with silicon where it comes through the hole I drilled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147574&d=1620594411

I thought about trying to work them into the body but this is much easier solution. They will be under the body but tucked away in the back and not immediately obvious. Once I get them fully wired up I'll take a pick and update. The Kleiner mod makes a great place to attach them I added a washer and sandwich it in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147575&d=1620594440

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147576&d=1620594458

I won't have the body on for a while but I lined it up with the hole to show where it would sit in relation to the body. I have 2 of these (one for each side)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147577&d=1620594526

I found the original thread from the builder I got this from. He has picks with it on a completed car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27197-Backup-lights&highlight=Backup

[Blitzboy54]

So on to the parking brake. I put the handle together and installed per the instructions, however like a lot of others my handle was rubbing pretty bad on the aluminum side wall. I was getting inflection when the handle was down. I ultimately reversed the position of the upper bracket to the inside and this allowed me to push out the front away from the panel when it's down. Once that was sorted I wanted to setup the parking brake but I had a few things to figure out first.

Number one is I have the shoe parking brake. The FFR Wilwood package uses the ferule on the end of the cable but this setup requires a clevis. Wilwood offers an ebrake cable package but it's $140 plus shipping and tax so my preference is to make my setup work. I found a set of mustang ebrake clevis's from eBay but they did not quite fit so I had to modify them

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147705&d=1620779250

After lengthening the hole and putting a groove in for the cable I test fit them. They work just fine

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147706&d=1620779269

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147707&d=1620779303

The next issue is the distance from the bracket on the shoe to the lever is longer than the FFR setup. This creates a problem where my cable (running under the 4" tube) is a little short. Ultimately I will add the pulley's and shorten the cable but I wanted to setup the parking brake so for now it's under the tube. I had to make the linkage a little longer. I have a box with all my left over bits and I found everything I needed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147708&d=1620779383

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147709&d=1620779397

With the parking brake fully engaged my handle ends up about here. So all is well there. I did end up trimming a tiny bit but it all works pretty well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147710&d=1620779413

[Blitzboy54]

Now the bad news.

In order to set my brake I had to get back into the shoe. I removed my calipers and took off the rotors. After making many adjustments and was satisfied with the result I started putting everything back together. The instructions on the Wilwood brakes have you torque the 3/8-24 bolts that hold on the caliper to 40 ft/lb's. I was only at 25 ft/lbs on the top bolt and it suddenly got real loose. I backed it out and sure enough the nutsert installed in the bracket threads failed.

I called Gordon Levy (I purchased the brakes from him) and like the super awesome guy he has proven to be he had me send him some pics and he will reach out to Wilwood to send out a replacement bracket. The really fortunate thing is the bracket does not require the removal of the axle. If it did I would have to drain the rear end. So all in all not the end of the world but a setback none the less

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147711&d=1620779435

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147712&d=1620779472

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147718&d=1620780785

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the tip on the 12V supply for testing circuits, Jesse. I will need something once I start electrical.

[BeePea]

For anyone looking to use leather I picked up a hide that was a tremendous value. I can't remember who I got the tip from, I think Fman but it could have been edwardb (or any number of other builders). It's an entire hide and the quality is excellent.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162592582983

I am considering this route as well. What did you use for the foam? Is the enough hide and foam for the transmission tunnel?

[Blitzboy54]

I am considering this route as well. What did you use for the foam? Is the enough hide and foam for the transmission tunnel?

There is enough hide for 5 transmission tunnels. I am planning to do a glove box, and the entire transmission tunnel (sides too) and will still have lots left over. The foam is 1/8 inch from yourautotrim.com. Same stuff edwardb used in his builds.

https://www.yourautotrim.com/1thscfo.html

[Blitzboy54]

I didn't do a ton this week. The weather was incredible and we hosted an outdoor block party (so much fun). I did manage to get a few things squared away though. First is the power plant. My guy said he was 85% sure he could have it ready for pickup on Friday, so I countered with how about 100% sure on the following Friday. He agreed so I am a week and half from having my engine back in house.

I left off on the parking brake, of all the "that was way harder than I expected" moments this is near the top. Drop trunk 1, parking brake 2. My advise for any new builders is DO NOT install your cockpit aluminum until you have completed the parking brake. If I had a lift it probably wouldn't matter very much but if you don't you've been warmed.

I had the cables routed under the 4" tube to rough it in but while putting my pulley's in I discovered why that's just not a good move.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148039&d=1621386472

I routed the cables in their own non rubbing path and shortened the ends I used a threaded crimp that seems to be working well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NCUY2O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCQ06/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148037&d=1621386472

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148038&d=1621386472

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148040&d=1621386472

I received my replacement bracket from Wilwood (Gordon Levy for the win). I installed that and I am now officially 2 spindles away from a roller

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148043&d=1621386500

The thing I am onto next is a glove box. I've played with some different concepts but I am going to do something like this. I think this size and shape best fits with how I want the cockpit to look and feel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148042&d=1621386500

[NYMike]

Looking good Jesse. It's killing me how close we are to having a roller. Congrats on the engine news. Can't wait to see it.

[Mitchelle]

Progress is so beautiful, I like your selection of black wheels.

Would you mind telling me the make and model of your mags? I am currently checking the options on 4wheelonline because I need a replacement for my ride.

[Railroad]

I cleaned my front rotors in preparation for the new Hawk pads. Using a scotchbrite pad on a 90* die grinder.
So glad I can swap pads without pulling the calipers.
Now for the rant. I ordered my pads from Summit Racing early on 5/14. I received notice today that item is being shipped. Normally, I get orders in 1 day, 2 at the most. Item showed in stock and was $21 more than Amazon.
I checked them after getting delayed shipping, my fault. Car has been on the lift with front tires off for a week.
Should have been driving it.

Sorry posted this on someone's build thread, mod please move as needed.
thanks,

[BeePea]

There is enough hide for 5 transmission tunnels. I am planning to do a glove box, and the entire transmission tunnel (sides too) and will still have lots left over. The foam is 1/8 inch from yourautotrim.com. Same stuff edwardb used in his builds.

https://www.yourautotrim.com/1thscfo.html

Ugh, went to buy it and the foam is all sold out. :( Also just got word my engine won't be started until July at best due to the shortages on everything right now. boo

Edit: Found some on Amazon, hope it is a good!

[460.465USMC]

My guy said he was 85% sure he could have it ready for pickup on Friday, so I countered with how about 100% sure on the following Friday. He agreed so I am a week and half from having my engine back in house.

I left off on the parking brake, of all the "that was way harder than I expected" moments this is near the top. Drop trunk 1, parking brake 2. My advise for any new builders is DO NOT install your cockpit aluminum until you have completed the parking brake. If I had a lift it probably wouldn't matter very much but if you don't you've been warmed.

I routed the cables in their own non rubbing path and shortened the ends I used a threaded crimp that seems to be working well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCQ06/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Great news on your motor! Appreciate the tips on the e-Brake pulley Mod. I have all my cockpit panels installed except for the rear wall.
I installed my pulleys prior to the panels. However, now that I have a roller, and with your encouragement re: the e-brake and lift, I'm going to give my four-post lift a try. I also saw JohnK using his four-post as well. I'm not sure if the ramps on the four-post will be in the way, but it's worth a shot. Thanks, Jesse.

[John Ibele]

Ugh, went to buy it and the foam is all sold out. :( Also just got word my engine won't be started until July at best due to the shortages on everything right now. boo

Edit: Found some on Amazon, hope it is a good!


Another option which worked well for me: Midwest Fabrics 1/8" closed cell foam (https://midwestfabrics.com/1-8-closed-cell-foam.html)

Jesse, looking great. Nice to see the wheels turning on the glove box :)

[Blitzboy54]

Another option which worked well for me: Midwest Fabrics 1/8" closed cell foam (https://midwestfabrics.com/1-8-closed-cell-foam.html)

Jesse, looking great. Nice to see the wheels turning on the glove box :)


Thanks John, I’m really up against the limits of my skills/experience on this but I’m hoping to pull it out. If I didn’t have your thread to work off if I don’t know if I would have even tried it.

[msbrown6]

Love this thread. The red covered switches on the dash are great - dash design looks good too. If you have a link for buying those red covered switches and can post, please do. I looked through and couldn't find that in this thread. Thanks!

[Blitzboy54]

Love this thread. The red covered switches on the dash are great - dash design looks good too. If you have a link for buying those red covered switches and can post, please do. I looked through and couldn't find that in this thread. Thanks!

Sure, keep in mind these are simple 2 pole switches. I actually only used one of these for the cockpit lights. Since I already had them I ordered some other types for hazards and fan override. This style of switch are nearly all universally sized so you can just buy covers as well. Thank you for the kind words, Good luck

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QKFD7Z7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J31PRBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBMZT3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Blitzboy54]

I have 2 items keeping me from moving into the next phase, my motor and spindles. My motor is supposed to be ready for pickup this week and spindles are due in June (fingers crossed on it being early June). So I'm getting close. I have been working around the edges staying busy. I made some progress on the glove box but it's a rough draft and I can see it's going to take me a while to iron the bugs out. I am up against the limits of my fabrication skills and I don't want to do it if it's not right but we will see.

In the mean time I put my rotors together and safety wired them. I will not share a picture of my wiring job because it's not pretty. It's correct but not pretty. One piece of advise I will share is I purchased the safety wire pliers from Harbor Freight because they were cheap and I was only going to use them once. I used to safety wire in the Marines so I've done it before but those pliers are such pieces of junk that I would recommend going with something else. Maybe I got a bad set but they took a monster effort to close them to the point of hurting my hands. and the locking mechanism started falling apart pretty quickly

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148041&d=1621386500

After that I went to work on the rear end. I secured the rest of my wiring/hoses and began putting my trunk space together. It had been a while since I did all that drilling and riveting, it was fun to get back into it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148347&d=1621812218

I cut my cubby hole, like Fman did on his build I found the recommended 17.5" hole to be a bit too big for my taste so I also cut it at 14". I used the oval cover that comes with the kit to cover up the fuel pick up in the trunk. It's an almost perfect template.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148360&d=1621815539

I don't have anything that will hold a piece of aluminum that big steady so my solution was once everything was drilled I cut it on the car securing it with clecos. I used a jigsaw with a metal blade. It worked pretty well although I did slip up. I literally lost my footing and over cut in one spot. Fortunately it's an area that will be covered with trim.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148348&d=1621812218

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148350&d=1621812218

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148349&d=1621812218

Everyday it looks a little bit more like a car. Looking forward to driving it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148361&d=1621815539

[460.465USMC]

Semper Fi, Jesse!

Your build is looking good! I also bought the Harbor Freight safety wire pliers. For whatever it's worth my experience was decent, though I have nothing to compare to as it was my first time safety wiring. You probably had a better quality tool in the Marines. It was kind of a fun task, though I had to break out the magnifying glass to thread the wire through the bolt.

You reminded me about the cubby hole. Thanks. I also want to do a cubby, so putting it on my "don't forget to order" list.

[usafajk610]

Your build has answered a question I had about doing a car. There is plenty that can be done without the motor. Dash looks great too. And seeing the cubby modification, there is a lot of space to be used in there. I had only seen a video on youtube of someones MKIII with it. With their top on it and an overcast day, lighting didn't give a great impression of it.

[NYMike]

Looking good Jesse. It’s really coming together. Looking like late June unfortunately for the spindles as of last week when I spoke with them. :(

[Blitzboy54]

Looking good Jesse. It’s really coming together. Looking like late June unfortunately for the spindles as of last week when I spoke with them. :(

That sucks

[Fman]

Nice work on the cubby Jesse, your build is really progressing along. We use that Cubby all the time I cant imagine having a Cobra without one. Probably one of the best most used upgrades I did on my car.

You will be turning the key to your first start before you know it!:cool:

Enjoy the build...

[BeePea]

Looking good Jesse. It’s really coming together. Looking like late June unfortunately for the spindles as of last week when I spoke with them. :(

Ouch

[Blitzboy54]

My motor was not ready this week unfortunately. I’m going to need to start getting creative. Maybe I’ll paint the bell housing ��*♂️

I guess I can start insulating my cockpit. Man I could really use some spindles

[CaptB]

My motor was not ready this week unfortunately. I’m going to need to start getting creative. Maybe I’ll paint the bell housing ��*♂️

I guess I can start insulating my cockpit. Man I could really use some spindles

Sorry it didn't make it. At my order in March, I got an August ship date so I went ahead and jumped off and got the axle and engine/transmission ordered and delivered. Now the hard part, looking at all that money sitting there waiting on August to come but when it does, I should have everything there (except what FFR doesn't have in stock)!

[Blitzboy54]

Well like a said above I didn't get my engine from the machine shop as planned. I've been assured it's close but I'm not counting any chickens until it's in my garage. Since I can't work on installing the engine and I don't have spindles I have decided to button up a few loose ends, seal my cockpit and install the sound/heat barrier.

One small thing on the list was to make sure my transmission reverse switch worked. I dug the shift lever out of storage and gave it a go. I have a different shifter (something a little special) for my build but this works fine for now. Not huge surprise but it works just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148716&d=1622340966

Next is my bell housing. My engine is going to have a very distinct color scheme It will mostly be black and red. I thought since you can see the bell housing from the engine bay it would be cool to have it the right color. Shot it with some high temp paint. It wont get too hot in that area so I would not expect a lot of discoloration.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148717&d=1622340966

Next I pulled the trunk hinges and powder coated them. I used the "stone black" from Prismatic Powders. I cant say how much I like this powder enough. It goes on smooth and perfect first try every time. One thing I've learned is mattes go on so much easier and more consistently than gloss colors. If you are going to powder coat as an amateur like me my advise would be to at least start with if not exclusively use matte colors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148718&d=1622340966

I finished riveting in my cubby wall and then sealed up the trunk and cockpit. I will be installing thermo tech the rest of the weekend. I put a few pieces in already and it's a super interesting product. I also test fit my transmission cover and decided to order the FFMetal version. There is nothing really wrong with the part that came with the kit but I don't want rivets on top (using leather) and I would like a thicker piece. The FFR cover has a lot of flex. Also since we are talking about this what size cup holder is everyone using? Could use some recommendations

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148719&d=1622340966

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148720&d=1622340966

I fabricated a glove box and decided to shelve it. At the end of the day it just wasn't good enough. I may give it another shot I also have some other ideas. Plan B for right now is to install a map light under the dash and run it off of the headlight switch.

[Fman]

Jesse, not sure what everyone is using for cupholders but I used the deeper style that will fit just about any drink/cup you can throw at it, especially a Venti Starbucks or a Ice Cold 64 oz Big Gulp aka Cobra air conditioning :cool:. IMO the smaller cup holder is more of a "change" holder not a true cupholder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132987&d=1596514833
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132989&d=1596514891

If you mount them in this location you will need an o-ring under them to lift them above trans (TKO600). Not sure how they would fit under a different trans, so far they have been great. If you reference my build thread there are links to the cupholders and o-rings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140662&d=1610505067

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hadn't caught up with your build thread for a while but just got up to date---looking great Jesse! I suggest you hold off on the cup holders until the trans is in place so that you can avoid interference. BTW, your tires are on the wrong sides:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148347&d=1621812218

Carry on!

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Hadn't caught up with your build thread for a while but just got up to date---looking great Jesse! I suggest you hold off on the cup holders until the trans is in place so that you can avoid interference. BTW, your tires are on the wrong sides:

Carry on!

Jeff

Ha!

Thanks Jeff. Good advice all around. I actually only have one wheel on the car for show. I would like to tell you I already knew it was on the wrong side but I didn’t notice.

[Blitzboy54]

Fman! Thanks as always! Every time I have a question Travis shows up with an answer. Really appreciate the support. Hope your enjoying your car.

I’ve always wanted to build one of these but more than that what I really want is to drive it. I keep a collection of videos of guys ripping through the twisties with their cobras for motivation. This is one of my favorites



https://youtu.be/01xWrt2all8

[Blitzboy54]

I started insulating my footbox and cockpit. I have seen this done dozens of times before on the forum but I have never actually worked with this material. So like anything done for the first time. I leaned some stuff.

First, it cuts best with a razor. I tried using scissors but the under layer is tar like material that gums them up pretty quickly. That being said change your razors fairly often. They also get gummed up and lose there effectiveness.

I started with the passenger footbox and moved back from there. Before starting I went back to some of my go to build threads and noticed something I missed. Fman said he was glad he pre cut his pieces before installing the panels. If you have not built your car yet and plan to use a heat/noise insulating mat I highly recommend doing this. It is really tough working in the footbox area with a sticky material. Measuring is tough as well, the space is awkward. I got it done so certainly not the end of the world but would do it differently next time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148850&d=1622495081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148849&d=1622495081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148848&d=1622495048

This stuff really works. Once laid and you like the location I used a hobby roller to mat it down. If you knock on the aluminum panel before there is a tin sounding ring. After this stuff is in it's a dead thud. I have a few panels not installed yet so I took the opportunity to pre insulate them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148846&d=1622495048

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148847&d=1622495048

I purchased two 36"x60" rolls. I managed to use most if it. There was very little waist if you plan it out. It's a little on the spendy side so I wanted to make sure to only get what I needed. I have one more box on order and that should be about it. So I should be able to finish it up this week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148844&d=1622494930

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148845&d=1622494930

[NYMike]

Looks great Jesse! Thanks for the tips. I think we’re going to go the thermo tec route as well so your approval makes it easier to pull the trigger.

[460.465USMC]

Looks good, Jesse. Times two on the cutting and installing the Thermo-tec before riveting the panels in place. Definitely easier. The only drawback I've found to that approach is you still have to cut the 3/4" strips to place where the panels overlap, which can only be done after the panels are in place. Keep up the good work!

[460.465USMC]

Jesse, I forgot to mention above just in case you hadn't thought about insulating the firewall. I applied the Thermo-tec there as well.

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse, I forgot to mention above just in case you hadn't thought about insulating the firewall. I applied the Thermo-tec there as well.

Thank you

I did think of it but not until after I put the dash in. I realize I can take it back out but I really don’t want to I have a much thicker FW but if I end up taking it back off for any reason I’ll do it.

[Blitzboy54]

Just got an email from Factory 5. Now they are saying early July for spindles. I’m trying to keep a stiff upper lip but I’m definitely getting frustrated.

Good news is seats are in and my engine guy called to confirm I wanted to keep the rear sump so it’s in final assembly. If I get the motor this week I should be pretty busy until July but will be getting stuck if it keeps slipping.

[Blitzboy54]

The theme on this car is going to be a lot of black and probably very dark grey with spots of red. In that vein I have some red powder coat to try out. I tested it on the side exhaust bracket. I'm glad I did. The powder goes on nicely but not the match I was looking for. I will sand them down and redo them on the "racer red" I have coming tomorrow that by all accounts should be a pretty good match to the Wilwood red.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148892&d=1622564939

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148957&d=1622671717

But the bigger news is my engine is scheduled to go on the dyno on Friday. He was planning to use the stock alternator that originally came with the car but the pully's didn't line up well so I dropped off my one wire and brackets for that and the power steering pump (although I don't think he will need it for dyno purposes but just in case). Since I was there I got to see it on the stand and it's exactly what I was hoping for. Mind you it's not fully dressed, I will put a Sniper and electronic distributor on it when it gets home. He is using a carb and vacuum distributor for break in and dyno purposes. Also my big dumb hand is covering the really sweet valve covers but here is an early preview. This really put me in a great mood and got my mind off my spindle troubles. This should keep my busy for at least the rest of the month.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148956&d=1622671717

[hineas]

I feel exactly the same way about the spindles!

Man, the engine looks great and the red powder coating is going to be sweet. Getting the engine in really makes it feel like a car. I can't wait to see pics of it in your car!!!

[NYMike]

Just got an email from Factory 5. Now they are saying early July for spindles. I’m trying to keep a stiff upper lip but I’m definitely getting frustrated.


Well that really sucks. Hopefully it doesn't slip any more. Even though July is probably about right for go karting for us, I really want to get this thing on it's own wheels so we can roll it around.

Engine looks awesome though! Can't wait to see it in the car. Your color scheme is going to look pretty mean.

[Blitzboy54]

I am going with blacked out trim. Like my aluminum panels gloss black is my color of choice. I dropped my roll bars and windshield frame off at a local powder coater. My plan has long been to coat my headlight bezels and mirrors in gloss black as well. One of the things I have wondered/worried about is how to powder coat mirrors that I cannot remove the glass. So it became time to experiment. I like the mirrors Skidd used on his build. I think they look sharp so I ordered one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AGHNIXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The glass is removable on the dash rear view but not the side mirrors I chose. Long story short I purchased high temp powder coating tape and covered the glass.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZ7K481/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I disassembled both mirrors as far as I could and powder coated every component and screw head. I have read on many forums that the glass would discolor or possibly fall out if the glue got hot. Neither was the case. It coated really nicely and as you can see the glass is just fine. Overall I am very pleased with the results

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148996&d=1622770302

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148995&d=1622770302

[Blitzboy54]

Ok, so I have been doing a lot of odds and ends working around my 2 big show stoppers, spindles and engine. I have some good news on the engine front. My motor is physically on the dyno and ran it's break in today. It gets power tested tomorrow and I plan to pick it up Thursday. So I'm pretty excited about that

In preparation I mounted my ignition box. Found a nice open spot on the firewall and used nutserts

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149186&d=1623089733

My original plan was to fabricate a glove box and put a light inside it switched with the courtesy circuit on the main headlight switch. I tried 2 different designs and at the end of the day I'm just not skilled enough. I didn't like either so I will move on to other ideas for storage. In it's place I shored up the center section of the dash and installed a map light that will run off that switch instead.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149185&d=1623089733

I also completed my insulation. I have a little left over for filling in the footbox but for all intents and purposes it's done

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149184&d=1623089733

I also created some simple side panels. If I have time between now and the engine arriving I will move onto the trunk and cubby carpet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149190&d=1623099830

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149189&d=1623099830

[Blitzboy54]

I got a pic getting hooked up to the dyno. The bad news is they only got one incomplete power pull before they had a technical problem with the load. They seem confident it will be fixed in the morning (waiting for a part or something). Good news was it peaked at 372 hp and 368 ft/lb. I’m pretty happy with that. This car is going to scream

I’m feeling really good that my 0-60 numbers and more importantly it’s 60-0 numbers are going to be excellent. Can’t wait to see the final report. I would also assume EFI and electronic timing will smooth out the performance as well.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149230&d=1623186982

[BeePea]

I got a pic getting hooked up to the dyno. The bad news is they only got one incomplete power pull before they had a technical problem with the load. They seem confident it will be fixed in the morning (waiting for a part or something). Good news was it peaked at 372 hp and 368 ft/lb. I’m pretty happy with that. This car is going to scream

I’m feeling really good that my 0-60 numbers and more importantly it’s 60-0 numbers are going to be excellent. Can’t wait to see the final report. I would also assume EFI and electronic timing will smooth out the performance as well.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149230&d=1623186982

Looks great Jessie! Will you get a video to post? Want to see it if so!

[Railroad]

I would watch for belt slip on the water pump pulley. If no issues, good, but a shorter belt would lower the alt some and allow more belt wrap on the pulley, IMO.

[Blitzboy54]

I would watch for belt slip on the water pump pulley. If no issues, good, but a shorter belt would lower the alt some and allow more belt wrap on the pulley, IMO.

Good eye

That was when they were mocking it up. The belt you see there didn’t work and they had to mount the PS pump and dress it completely. We looped the pump back into itself for the test. Also then had to put my alternator on it as my pulleys and belt are 8 rib

[CaptB]

Great work on the engine! I have the same valve covers.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great Jessie! Will you get a video to post? Want to see it if so!

That’s a good idea. Let me see what I can do

[Blitzboy54]

I started my trunk carpeting. I ordered an extra piece of carpet from FFR to fill in the cubby and the sides not included with the kit. I should have that in the next day or two. I cut the drop trunk per edwardb's advice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149351&d=1623372627

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149350&d=1623372627

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149352&d=1623372627

I finished my engine grounding and connected my positive battery with a jumper just to have some fun with the lights. These are my cockpit and trunk lights

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149353&d=1623372668

Dash lights

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149354&d=1623372668

Map lights off the courtesy switch

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149355&d=1623372668

[Blitzboy54]

I am at a weird spot in my build. Between delays on my engine and FFR back orders I've had to find new ways to keep going. I have a box coming from FFR of parts I ordered, I am curious if any of my POL stuff will be in it. So Operation Continue To Stay Busy moves ahead.

First my engine. There was a problem with my motor. We have twice tried to dyno it and twice not been successful. My builder is convinced I have a bad water pump. I am deferring to his judgment. I am glad we found it on the load instead of my car but the short story is parts are on the way and he will reach out when it's ready. I am not going to update anything engine related until it's actually in my hands.

So on to wiring and powder coating.

I started working on all the light bezels and other odds and ends. I dropped my windshield and roll bar off at a professional as those parts will not fit into my oven. I finished all the light bezels and license plate bracket. I also finished the passenger side mirror. Items still to do are Lemons cap (when I get it), hood latches, roll bar bezels and wiper arms.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149475&d=1623612200

I also broke out the "racer red" I received this week. I decided to PC my fuel tank covers in it. I thought it came out nice. This will be the red I stick with.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149474&d=1623611495

You can see the difference between the "racer red' vs the "very red" I was using before. I will redo those brackets eventually.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149486&d=1623615977

I mocked up all my lights. I wired everything in and ran a jumper wire from my positive terminal to the RF wire harness and tested everything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149471&d=1623611495

I was very pleased and a bit surprised to discover everything worked correctly the first time. I made a video of me running through all the lights. Not included is me testing the brake lights. They work like they should with both running lights on an off.


https://youtu.be/BF2aiwicvmw

[Blitzboy54]

First my engine. There was a problem with my motor. We have twice tried to dyno it and twice not been successful. My builder is convinced I have a bad water pump. I am deferring to his judgment. I am glad we found it on the load instead of my car but the short story is parts are on the way and he will reach out when it's ready. I am not going to update anything engine related until it's actually in my hands.



Ha! so my builder called today. Motor is fixed and dyno'd. Can be picked up as early as tomorrow. Will have it home this week.


Yay!

[BeePea]

Ha! so my builder called today. Motor is fixed and dyno'd. Can be picked up as early as tomorrow. Will have it home this week.


Yay!

Congrats! Can't wait to see it installed

[NYMike]

Ha! so my builder called today. Motor is fixed and dyno'd. Can be picked up as early as tomorrow. Will have it home this week.


Yay!

Congrats! Cant wait to see it. Trunk carpet looks great and I love the lights. Its coming together really nicely.

[460.465USMC]

Right on, Jesse! It's going to be a great feeling getting your motor in your garage.

[Blitzboy54]

It's been a busy week. Unfortunately mostly at work. I got a bunch of POL items and my SEATS! I now have a complete order minus the spindles. So plenty to do. I want to talk about the high back Kirkey seats for a second. I will be cataloging all of that but a couple things. They do not come with brackets. The instructions say to just bolt them to the floor or purchase the mounting brackets. The base is curved so bolting them down is more complicated than that. Also they sit so low I can barely see over the wheel. Word of advice right off the bat, if you purchase the competition seats you are going to need the side mount brackets as well. I don't see any way around that unless you can weld your own.

I completed my trunk carpet. I am generally happy with how it turned out. As I posted in another thread I goofed up and installed the cubby wall before installing my gas struts for the trunk. I am now going to have to mess up my work a little. Fortunately everyone around here is super supportive and I now have a plan to fix it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149539&d=1623797668

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149575&d=1623894510

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149574&d=1623894510

I was also able to bring my motor home! It seemed like it took forever but I can finally get that going so I will start putting it together in earnest. I need to build the wires, drain the brake in oil, remove the filter (install the relocation kit), then mount the clutch and transmission. I am also going to pull off the thermostat housing and powder coat it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149576&d=1623894510

Lastly I need a new belt. I purchased 64.25" at the recommendation of the folks I bought the pully's from and that is clearly wrong. My pump is canted in and my alternator tensioner is retracted fully. I think I may need as much as 2 more inches. Will contact them today about an exchange.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149586&d=1623940661

[rthomas98]

Fman! Thanks as always! Every time I have a question Travis shows up with an answer. Really appreciate the support. Hope your enjoying your car.

I’ve always wanted to build one of these but more than that what I really want is to drive it. I keep a collection of videos of guys ripping through the twisties with their cobras for motivation. This is one of my favorites



https://youtu.be/01xWrt2all8

I love that video. But I live right near where this was filmed and trust me you can't do that anymore. The roads are pretty destroyed. FYI that is around the willow run airport in ypsilanti MI. great historical site if you ever visit michigan.

[nucjd19]

Great job Blitz!!!I have enjoyed catching up on your build. Loving the powder coating you are doing. I am starting my carbon fiber skinning adventures and was thinking about covering everything that is getting black'ed out with these rides with high gloss carbon fiber.

[Blitzboy54]

Great job Blitz!!!I have enjoyed catching up on your build. Loving the powder coating you are doing. I am starting my carbon fiber skinning adventures and was thinking about covering everything that is getting black'ed out with these rides with high gloss carbon fiber.

That will look sweet. Post some pics when your done.

[TMartinLVNV]

It looks like you are running the Holley Sniper and a heater. The two ports on the intake manifold should be used for the dash gauge temp sensor and the Holley Sniper temp sensor. This means that you will need a third port for your heater line. I drilled and tapped the water neck for this very purpose. If you are having your water neck powdercoated, now would be a good time to do this. When the thermostat opens up at 180 degrees, you will get heat at this location.

You may have something already planned out for the third coolant port for the heater. If you don't, this is something to keep in mind. In my build, I have a lot of instructions about this and the tap size that you will need. This caused me a lot of time figuring it out after everything was all together.

[Blitzboy54]

Just a beautiful weekend. We had a big family gathering and then Fathers day there wasn't a lot of time to work on the car. But I did manage to get a few things done.

First a little progress on the motor. I got the correct size belt on and installed all my sending units. I powder coated my thermostat housing. I know the neck looks a little funky but I wanted the tip with the rib to be bare metal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149721&d=1624232403

I am running the Holly Sniper and decided to add the ignition system as well. I plan to have the computer control the fuel and timing. The Hyperspark distributor comes stock with a cast iron gear. I needed steel, when I ordered it they said they could sell me a steel gear and then I would have to take it to a machine shop. For what that cost the Duel Spark distributor was more expensive but about a wash if you consider the other costs, plus it was in stock.

Anyhow the Hyperspark has to find TDC on cylinder 1 then it comes with a jig to put the rotor in the right spot. The duel spark is a little different. You set the timing mark 50 degrees before TDC on cylinder 1, then set the rotor over the ignition mark. You can choose any location you want. You then rotate the housing until the first LED goes out then you turn it back until just after the LED turns back on. That's it, you set the timing electronically from there. I used the 12v power supply to turn it on and set it up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149720&d=1624232403

I started putting my Kirkey comp seats together. They do seem like they will be quit comfortable but will also take a little getting used to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149722&d=1624232462

I played around with seat height and think I need to be between 1.5-2.5 inches off the deck. The mounting brackets that Kirkey makes is does not put the seat where I want it. I don't want it angled back as far as it is. Also they are $65 a set

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149724&d=1624232462

I ordered these. They are made by Invictus and were $55 for 2 sets. They are steel but I'm not concerned about the weight. I think I can manipulate these to get what I am looking for. I would like to put the driver seat on an adjustable track. I need to play with it a bit more but it's promising.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149723&d=1624232462

[Blitzboy54]

It looks like you are running the Holley Sniper and a heater. The two ports on the intake manifold should be used for the dash gauge temp sensor and the Holley Sniper temp sensor. This means that you will need a third port for your heater line. I drilled and tapped the water neck for this very purpose. If you are having your water neck powdercoated, now would be a good time to do this. When the thermostat opens up at 180 degrees, you will get heat at this location.

You may have something already planned out for the third coolant port for the heater. If you don't, this is something to keep in mind. In my build, I have a lot of instructions about this and the tap size that you will need. This caused me a lot of time figuring it out after everything was all together.

Thanks man, my intake manifold actually has a 1/4 port that I plan to use for that. I put the fan switch in the thermostat housing. I realize this is redundant but I am not sure if I am going to use the sniper for the fan. If I do I will take the switch out and put a plug it's place.

I love your build thread. I've been referencing it for a long time.

[TMartinLVNV]

Sure thing. I think you are going to like the Hyperspark setup. It will allow you to use your Sniper tablet to set the rev limiter. I had to add a rev limiter to mine (gotta watch those rpms doing donuts :cool:) since I didn't have the Hyperspark.

[Fman]

Jesse, are you running a CDI box? Not sure about Sniper but I was told by Gordon Levy the PF4 EFI will run even better with a CDI box. Maybe this is the same thing as the Hyperspark setup you are using? Not really familiar with that.

One thing on seat sliders and brackets, make sure they will not cause your seat to be too high and have you looking right into the center of the upper windshield frame.

Here is the CDI box Gordon recommended:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5520?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzruGBhBAEiwAUqMR8DyVxTrXdv7MyDkRPvXI Y6Jju9q67wCb7wL7MdYe9c0Iq5Php3WHkBoC76oQAvD_BwE

Engine looks great, cant wait to hear it come to life!

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse, are you running a CDI box? Not sure about Sniper but I was told by Gordon Levy the PF4 EFI will run even better with a CDI box. Maybe this is the same thing as the Hyperspark setup you are using? Not really familiar with that.

One thing on seat sliders and brackets, make sure they will not cause your seat to be too high and have you looking right into the center of the upper windshield frame.

Here is the CDI box Gordon recommended:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5520?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzruGBhBAEiwAUqMR8DyVxTrXdv7MyDkRPvXI Y6Jju9q67wCb7wL7MdYe9c0Iq5Php3WHkBoC76oQAvD_BwE

Engine looks great, cant wait to hear it come to life!

Yes sir, I sure am

I am using the following

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/556-151

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/556-152

Good looking out on the windshield. I am actually sitting pretty low right now. 1.5" seems to be the minimum. I'm not going to do anything permanent until I'm sure. But, since you mentioned it what is the height of the upper frame off the body?

[Blitzboy54]

Well, hells bells boys

It’s on now!!!!

149815

I was planning on dropping in the motor this weekend but I think I’ll get her shoes on first.

[BeePea]

Well, hells bells boys

It’s on now!!!!

149815

I was planning on dropping in the motor this weekend but I think I’ll get her shoes on first.

I literally clicked your build thread to see if anyone has gotten notification yet. Congrats! I hope I get mine soon as well!

[CaptB]

I literally clicked your build thread to see if anyone has gotten notification yet. Congrats! I hope I get mine soon as well!

Yeah man!!!!!!

[Blitzboy54]

I finished the seat setup. Interestingly the high back comp seats have A LOT more room than the standard bucket seat. It's kind of shocking actually. A fellow builder in the area has let me drive his car and I recently sat in it again. The comp seats sit much lower and put your body further away. I have my brackets with almost 2 inches of lift and I still sit lower than the vinyl bucket seats and have to move them forward in order to properly reach the pedals. When I sit in the stock seats all the way back I am a little closer to the controls than I need to be.

The comp seats are super comfortable, but a few things. They hug your hips so you have to drop into them. Also you can't really move laterally that much, so to access my cubby I will likely have to be out of the cockpit to access it properly. The good news is I can't imagine it would be that big a deal to change out the seats later if I changed my mind but they hug your body so i am looking forward to ripping the twisties in them.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149855&d=1624579877

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149856&d=1624579877

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149857&d=1624579877

[Blitzboy54]

I got my spindles on Friday and went right to work. Broke out the manual, it's all pretty straight forward. I had been stressing about the 250 ft/lb of torque for the hub bolt but that wasn't that big of a deal. The wrench eventually clicked.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149937&d=1624827124

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149938&d=1624827124

I checked the front wheel for brake fitment and had no clearance issues of any kind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149939&d=1624827124

I then moved on to brake bleeding. This is an inexpensive little bugger from Harbor Freight but works really well. There were a number of initial leaks other than getting brake fluid everywhere is was a good way to test the system. Eventually everything flowed bubble free. I think after the go cart stage I will take the wheels back off and bleed them again just to be sure

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149940&d=1624827197

Once that was done it was time to get her shoes on and get the dolly out of the way. The dolly wheels were starting to buckle at times, so it was good to get the real wheels on

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149941&d=1624827197

I am now officially the proud parent of a roller.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149942&d=1624827197

I do have a question about the front wheels. I don't have the motor in yet but does this seem like a lot of camber? It makes me question if I needed to modify the upper control arms at all seeing they will need to be extended.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149943&d=1624827248

[egchewy79]

Get the drive train in before messing with the alignment. Typically no mods are needed to achieve the proper camber (-0.5*) but you will need to modify/ shorten the rear adjustment sleeve to achieve more caster (7-8* with power steering)

[Fman]

Looking good Jesse, you are really making good progress. If you have power steering I would definitely modify the UCA. I did a string alignment on mine for go-kart then took it to a professional shop after body was on and the ride height was set.

and those wheels look great they will really pop once you get the body on and painted.

[CaptB]

Great work.

[Railroad]

Looks like he has already cut the adjusters on the rear leg of the upper control arm. Well done!

You might want to see what that loop in the flexible brake line does when the wheels are turned lock to lock.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks like he has already cut the adjusters on the rear leg of the upper control arm. Well done!

You might want to see what that loop in the flexible brake line does when the wheels are turned lock to lock.

Great point. Is the lock to lock adjustable because my wheels when turned all the way rub the F Panel and the brake hose, but only the last 10-15% if the turn

[Railroad]

You can install limiters on the steering rack, or just stay off the limit of your steering range.
Might want to get engine wt and alignment before addressing the tire rub. The flex brake line can be twisted to correct rub.

[Fman]

On your brake lines, I ended up calling techna fit to have custom lines made for my rear that were way too long. They do great work and will have new lines to you in a few days.

https://www.techna-fit.com

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132302&d=1595527795

[RJD]

Here's the steering limiters if you need them and how to install.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-ste...2004/p/HW2324/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HG3bH1l_36Y

Edit: Link was broken; try this one: https://www.cjponyparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=hw2324

[Blitzboy54]

Here's the steering limiters if you need them and how to install.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-ste...2004/p/HW2324/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HG3bH1l_36Y

You guys are the best

[Blitzboy54]

I have a couple updates. First is I got my windshield back from powder coating along with my roll bars. So the first order of business is to re assemble my window frame. This turned out to be both much easier than I expected and easier than it came apart.

I lined up the top section. At work we use IPA a lot (I work in a semi conductor clean room) and have found that rubbing alcohol makes for decent lubricant. Plus it evaporates when done so this is what I used. Once in this position I pressed everything together with my hands and it came together quite nicely. One mistake I made is I forgot to remove the brass inserts before coating. But it's under the outer rail so it wont be noticed when I knock them out and re install the SS ones from Whitby's.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150180&d=1625178776

After that I re installed the 2 brass corner brackets

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150181&d=1625178855

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150182&d=1625178855

After that I simply pressed in the bottom, added the last 4 screws and slid in the rubber. I did a rough cleaning before putting it back in the box but all in all I like how it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150183&d=1625178855

On the engine front I got my clutch and transmission in. Come hell or high water I am going to try and drop her in on Saturday. I am equal parts nervous and excited.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150178&d=1625178776

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150179&d=1625178776

Funny story. The purple slave cylinder on the T5 is an aftermarket addition. The push rod is simply a piece of threaded 3/8 rod. I had to put it in and remove it a number of times. The instruction said it would have to be trimmed but I cut too much because when I originally measured it the piston in the slave wasn't fully retracted (doh). So I had to run to Lowes and buy a replacement because it was too short. I re cut the rod and installed it. Then after probably over thinking it I decided it was a touch too long still so instead of removing it again I cut it in place. Just as I cut off the end of the rod it of course fell in the bell housing. Soooo stupid. I walked away and went to bed. I purchased a cheap pointer magnet from Harbor Freight and was lucky it worked so I didn't have to separate my transition.

Onward and upward

[Fman]

T minus and counting... so cool, looking forward to seeing it come to life.

What oil pan did your builder use? I hope it is low profile, I had 8" Canton on mine and it was down below the frame, ended up going with a 7" Champ from Gordon Levy which brought it up inside frame.

[Blitzboy54]

T minus and counting... so cool, looking forward to seeing it come to life.

What oil pan did your builder use? I hope it is low profile, I had 8" Canton on mine and it was down below the frame, ended up going with a 7" Champ from Gordon Levy which brought it up inside frame.

Your running a 427. My bottom end is a standard 302 so the original oil pan should clear. I haven't measured actually but according the F5 it should fit.


**Update, well I just ran outside and measured and it looks like I'm right at 7". Thanks as always for looking out.

[Fman]

Your running a 427. My bottom end is a standard 302 so the original oil pan should clear. I haven't measured actually but according the F5 it should fit.


**Update, well I just ran outside and measured and it looks like I'm right at 7". Thanks as always for looking out.

Jesse, glad to hear this, I also used fixed engine mounts which lower the engine another 3/4" from the poly mount setup. Sounds like you are good to go!

[Railroad]

Removing the shifter will make the installation a lot easier.

[Blitzboy54]

Removing the shifter will make the installation a lot easier.

Great point, thanks!

[Blitzboy54]

Happy 4th everyone! Got a lot done today just in time to take tomorrow off for some BBQ, cornhole and family time.

After my mishap of dropping a cutoff piece of 3/8 rod in my bell housing I decided to modify the clutch cable cover to perform the same function with the slave cylinder. Even though most new builds seem to use a throw out bearing and have that area open I figured it would be my luck to pick up some piece of debris and there goes my fly wheel, so....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150335&d=1625366620

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150336&d=1625366620

Now that the engine is prepped there is really nothing left to do then stuff her in. I got everything setup, they sort of look like they are staring each other down

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150337&d=1625366620

I had my daughter and a young guy I work with that we recently hired that's really into engines to come over and help. Everything went really smoothly. I would say we had everything in the car in about an hour.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150338&d=1625366682

It ended up being a lot easier than I thought it would be. There have been a number of jobs that were a lot harder than I expected (see drop trunk) but this was kind of the opposite.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150339&d=1625366682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150340&d=1625366682

The lift wouldn't clear the bottom of the frame so I put the car on these platforms. As an aside I have seen a lot of builds that use the wheel jacks. Those are awesome but also pretty spendy. In my case I would never use them again so I got these at Harbor Freight. They were on sale at the time for $8 each. They are rated for 1000 lbs each and work great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150344&d=1625367710

[Blitzboy54]

We did have some interference issues that had to be addressed.

First is the oil pressure sender. This seems to have been a common problem with shorty headers but looks easy enough to fix. I ordered a brass 45 degree NPT fitting that should move it out of the way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150341&d=1625366720

Next, the T5 has a tab that interferes with the parking brake bracket. Simply crawled under the car and buzzed it off with a pneumatic sawsall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150343&d=1625366720

And last is the power steering bracket from CVF Racing. I thought this might be an issue as I measured a few days ago and there have been other threads about this. I ended up trimming the tip off and polishing it up. looks fine but unfortunately I still have a clearance issue with the back of the pump and the header. With the shortly backwards there is a lot going on in that space. I may have to move some of the screw holes to bring it in. We will see I have help thread on the main board.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150342&d=1625366720

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Jesse! I bet it must feel really good to see your motor nestled into place. Great milestones: roller and drivetrain in. You're really clicking along.

[Blitzboy54]

Well I cleared up my interference issues.

First and foremost was the PS pump. After a lot a reserch and a whole bunch of help on the main board I decided the best move was to modify the bracket and bring the pump in closer. I drilled 2 new holes and counter sunk them. The only down side is I need a shorter belt, but I was able to return the old one so basically a wash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150419&d=1625538319

This brought everything almost 2 inches closer to the water pump and clears the exhaust.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150420&d=1625538319

Last was the oil pressure sender. I used a 1/4 NPT 45 degree fitting instead of the long standoff that comes with the motor

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150421&d=1625538319


I installed the drive shaft and discovered that using 2 pulley's on my parking brake put me uncomfortably close to disaster. So I removed one and put a shorter bolt in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150467&d=1625607218

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150469&d=1625607245

[Blitzboy54]

I got a lot of other business done today as well. First I got hydraulic line run to the clutch and bled. Works really well. Slightest touch of the pedal and the fork moves.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150466&d=1625607218

I plumped my power steering and oil filter relocation kit. I was then able to get all my fluids in. I have juice in the transmission, clutch, brakes, power steering and engine. Only thing left is the radiator and coolant system.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150470&d=1625607245

Last I started working on the wiring for the ignition and sniper. I also ran my positive battery terminal and wired up the alternator and starter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150471&d=1625607245

[Fman]

Nice work Jesse! You'll be turning the key soon...

One question on your headers, are those a custom application? I have only seen the style that bends in front of the foot box area and aims towards the side pipe cutout in the body.

[Blitzboy54]

Nice work Jesse! You'll be turning the key soon...

One question on your headers, are those a custom application? I have only seen the style that bends in front of the foot box area and aims towards the side pipe cutout in the body.

Those are standard 302 headers flipped around. I’m using the Jpipes. I went that route because it was a little less expensive and I figured it would give me more adjustability. Then F5 changed their headers with a ball joint and now adjust the same way. At the time I ordered that wasn’t the case and folks needed to use wedges and shims on the engine mounts so times to get the pipes to look right.

[NYMike]

Looks great Jesse. Congrats on getting the engine installed. Looks like you will be cruising around in no time.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great Jesse. Congrats on getting the engine installed. Looks like you will be cruising around in no time.

Mike! Thanks, I haven’t seen you in a while. Glad to see out and about

[Blitzboy54]

Lots of progress the last couple of days. I installed the shorter replacement drive belt after I adjusted my brackets. I put my headers on permanently and installed the Jpipes. I roughed up the side pipes just to see how they fit. Initial look is the driver looks good, I may need a spacer or wedge for the passenger side but not too bad. I installed the sniper and put this Lokar carb bracket on. It works fine but I can see why folks abandon the F5 throttle cable. It's not awesome and doesn't have any adjustment. I am open to any replacement suggestions.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150612&d=1625875811

I installed the horns and started working on the radiator and fans. Maybe because the car is in the garage but the horn is shockingly loud. I was pretty impressed. When I started mocking up the radiator I marked the center line then offset it 5/8th per the instructions. I did a little forum research and the biggest reason I see to do this is it gives you the ability to use the shroud aluminum pieces. I know they are not the most popular and I may not use them but I wanted the option so I went with the factory setup.

However as you can see the radiator doesn't sit flush to the mounts because of the location of the mount and the weld on the radiator. So I made a modification.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150608&d=1625875730

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150609&d=1625875730

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150610&d=1625875730

Now it sits nice and flush

I completed the ignition/Sniper wiring. I managed to get the battery plugged in so I was able to do the initial setup. My best dyno numbers were at 34 degrees at WOT so that is what I set the timing to. I was able to test all my systems accept the starter for obvious reasons. I am getting close to first start though. Maybe next weekend.

I did bleed the fuel line per Holley's instructions on a new line and I am glad I did. I put 5 gallons of fuel in my tanks and pulled the supply line and fed it into a bottle. You can see from the picture that there was all kinds of residue. I dumped what you see here and did it again and everything was clear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150611&d=1625875811

Last but hardly least I have decided to go a different direction to the Kirkey competition seats. I am very committed to a high back seat for all kinds of reasons from performance to safety to looks but these just were not right for me. They are very comfortable once in them but for getting in and out and being able to move my shoulders around the cabin I needed something else. It was a tossup between the Cobra Clubman (Jeff Kleiner's seat) or the Cobra Monaco Pro suggested by Gordon Levy. Ultimately I went with the Monaco because it's wider. This does create some other headaches as the parking brake may need to move but for now I think I can make it work as is. I like the look and they are exactly the fit vs function that I wanted.

I also started putting some of my drivers footbox aluminum in permanently now that everything is bled. I used nutcerts on the cover and would like to put some weather seal between it and the top of the footbox.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150615&d=1625878578

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150613&d=1625875851

I now have 2 Kirkey comp seats I don't need anymore. I will sell them on the forum. If anyone reading this wants to get a jump on them let me know. Thanks

[hineas]

I just got caught up on your build. You are moving right along!

First off, those valve covers are amazing! They sure make the engine look clean and mean.

You will be driving that in no time! I am excited to hear about your first drive. I hope your first drive goes smoother than mine!

[Railroad]

On your throttle cable, ball connector on the fuel injector body,,,,flip the ball so it is pointing to the outside of the car. The way you have it will pull the cable across all the linkage. It needs to be clear for the full sweep of opening and closing.

[BadAsp427]

The build is looking really nice. In the last few photos of your engine install, I could not see if you installed your ground strap from the chassis to the engine. You will want that as you will have all kinds of problems without it as the motor/trans mounts do not conduct very well.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Don’t get all ahead of yourself and try to install those seats before the body is on Jesse. You’ll find that you won’t have much room at the rear cockpit corners or in the door latch area.

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Don’t get all ahead of yourself and try to install those seats before the body is on Jesse. You’ll find that you won’t have much room at the rear cockpit corners or in the door latch area.

Jeff

Outstanding advice and will do

[Blitzboy54]

The build is looking really nice. In the last few photos of your engine install, I could not see if you installed your ground strap from the chassis to the engine. You will want that as you will have all kinds of problems without it as the motor/trans mounts do not conduct very well.

Thank you for looking out! I did connect it I used the 4 gage wire that came with the Breeze forward battery kit. It’s bolted directly to the frame (but a little farther up than the engine mount. I’ve actually checked the resistance to ground from every sender and switch. Very low resistance.

[Blitzboy54]

On your throttle cable, ball connector on the fuel injector body,,,,flip the ball so it is pointing to the outside of the car. The way you have it will pull the cable across all the linkage. It needs to be clear for the full sweep of opening and closing.

Yes sir, I was playing with it because I didn’t like the way it felt. I ultimately decided it’s the cable. I ordered an adjustable Lokar and will re route it when it arrives.

Thanks for for the feedback, much appreciated.

[BadAsp427]

Thank you for looking out! I did connect it I used the 4 gage wire that came with the Breeze forward battery kit. It’s bolted directly to the frame (but a little farther up than the engine mount. I’ve actually checked the resistance to ground from every sender and switch. Very low resistance.

Went back in the photos... I see it... again, you have a very nice build coming togther.

[NYMike]

Mike! Thanks, I haven’t seen you in a while. Glad to see out and about

Thanks Jesse. Life went from 0 to 100 real quick as soon as summer hit and my available time for building and forum surfing instantly went to 0. Cant wait to see some videos when it roars to life.

[Blitzboy54]

A couple quick updates. I didn't like the stock throttle cable or my throttle setup at all really. I purchased a Lokar cable and mount and it's now much better and adjustable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150879&d=1626354843

I am waiting on a few coolant fittings and them I'm pretty much ready for first start. That's the good news. The bad news is it's going to be a while before I can get them in. I had surgery on my left index finger so I'm stuck in the short run at least until the stitches come out. I was hoping to get it running before the procedure but just didn't quite make it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150880&d=1626354843

[Blitzboy54]

The definition of Addiction - Noun - the fact or condition of being addicted to a particular substance, thing, or activity.

Despite being one handed I just can't walk away. I am moving at a snails pace but as it turns out I am unable to just let it sit.

So I started with my heater corps Nothing super fancy except I ended up needing a 90 degree elbow out of the intake manifold and a pre molded bend back into the pump. I still need to pickup some hose clamps for the heater hoses. I have them zip tied for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151005&d=1626644071

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151006&d=1626644130

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151004&d=1626644071



Next is getting the overflow reservoir installed and the rest of the coolant lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151008&d=1626644130

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151007&d=1626644130

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151010&d=1626644193

That puts me at a few system checks, coolant and side pipes away from first start. I am equal parts excited and nervous. The engine ran on the dyno but not with the sniper or electronic timing. Ultimately it will be fine but hopefully without drama. I'm assuming I will be ready to turn the key next weekend.

Question - how much coolant did you need to fill the system?

[egchewy79]

About a gallon

Edit. Sorry, meant to say about 4 gallons

[Fman]

Jesse, mine took about 3.4 gallons (dart block) to fill entire radiator/block and a little extra for the overflow. I would buy 4 gallons. Would also highly recommend the burping kit to get all the air out of your system after the first fill up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085759CPH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope your hand heals up quickly we are all looking forward to hearing your first start!

[JB in NOVA]

Looking great! Nice job with the heater. I also found I needed to use a pre-molded elbow to make the fitting to the pump.

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse, mine took about 3.4 gallons (dart block) to fill entire radiator/block and a little extra for the overflow. I would buy 4 gallons. Would also highly recommend the burping kit to get all the air out of your system after the first fill up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085759CPH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope your hand heals up quickly we are all looking forward to hearing your first start!


Thank you and I will look into it for sure.

[Blitzboy54]

Rumble Young Man Rumble!!!!


I didn't like the upper hose setup. It sat too proud at the top and I wanted the cap to be at least parallel to the high point. So I ordered an elbow and it now sits more to my liking. I also installed the PCV valve. Ran vacuum to the sniper and the other side through the air cleaner.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151094&d=1626909318



Well after all that time thinking about I pulled the trigger. It was awesome but not without hiccups but it's done. My neighbors father happened to be visiting and we talked turkey for a while. He's built dozens of cars including an original 427 side oiler he has in a Fairlane (I am most definitely going to see it at some point). He walked me through his pre start routine. It was fun, I learned so much in 15 minutes. Going to invite him over again.




https://youtu.be/HC6RU2OEYFc



https://youtu.be/VirCqfhQBRk - Engine at Idle




I had some drama with my thermostat housing. It was a new one I purchased and after I filled the car with coolant it started pouring out of the housing. So I drained it, pulled it apart and put a new gasket in it. Rinse and repeat until I finally figured out one of the bolts that came with it was too long. One washer later she seems to be holding in her liquids now. I ran it up to temp and the fan works like it should. The sniper seems to be idling well. Going get her jacked up and double check all my bolts are torqued. My good friend is a cop in my town. He once told me if I was ever going to get into trouble to do it at 3:00 cuz that's shift change :)

Gonna be go karting Saturday at 3:00





I decided put my shifter and knob on. I really wanted to see how it looked and how the shifter felt. I wanted to put a Marine touch on on the car and this what I chose. A lot of how I ended up in life was informed and shaped by that experience. The choices I made personally and professionally all started there, I want my car in some small way to reflect that.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151092&d=1626909318

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151093&d=1626909318


Oohrah

[egchewy79]

Nice job. Sounds good!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Exciting milestone moment. Looks and sounds great. Also love the shift knob. It’s the little things that make these cars so fun to build and personalize.
-Steve.

[Fman]

Way to go Jesse! Sounds mean and healthy.... congratulations on the first start! Shifter ball is also a nice personal touch on your build!

And thank you for your service in the Marines, we all appreciate the sacrifice you made for our freedom we enjoy in this country.

[hineas]

What a great milestone, feels good to hear the engine run!

Good luck with the go-karting, that is another huge milestone coming your way!

[CaptB]

Congrats and Semper Fi.

[NYMike]

Congrats Jesse! Sounds awesome and love the shift knob. Such a great piece of you to put into the car. Can’t wait to see some go karting videos. Good luck!

[JB in NOVA]

Congrats! Sounds great and looks terrific.