View Full Version : Rear splash panels
egchewy79
02-13-2021, 09:50 PM
Can someone confirm that the rear splash guards attach where the 2 rivets are circled in the pic? I'll drill out the rivets. Are 2-3 1/4"-20 rivnuts enough to hold the panel? And should it be totally vertical or slightly angled? 142610
Mark Eaton
02-13-2021, 10:22 PM
I think mine wound up a little further back
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122519&d=1581656727
chuckster
02-14-2021, 11:10 AM
I think mine wound up a little further back
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122519&d=1581656727
Mine look like yours, plus I attached the bottom flange to the body with a 8-32 s/s screw with washers.
Mark Eaton
02-14-2021, 12:35 PM
It is mounted to the body in back with an L-bracket and a 1/4-20" stud (from McMaster) which I secured to the body with HSRF. You can see the HSRF at the bottom of the photo
egchewy79
02-14-2021, 02:21 PM
I'm thinking of a nutsert/rivnut in the panel and a SS screw through the body for the lower attachment.
I'm going to add rivet nuts in order to make them removable. Same with the front ones.
George
boat737
02-14-2021, 10:41 PM
Can someone confirm that the rear splash guards attach where the 2 rivets are circled in the pic? I'll drill out the rivets. Are 2-3 1/4"-20 rivnuts enough to hold the panel? And should it be totally vertical or slightly angled? 142610
It looks like my inner fender panels (elephant ears) are about where you show in your picture. I used nut-certs to make them removable (same with the fronts), and I also made some brackets to stabilize the lower inside portion of the panels. (The brackets got powder coated black as well, but they don't show up very good in the pictures.). I have a 3-link which I used as mounting points for the brackets.
cv2065
02-15-2021, 09:27 AM
Mine align right behind where you have your circle, just behind the welded seam. I drilled and tapped with 4 1/4-20 button heads versus using rivnuts and are supremely solid.
egchewy79
02-15-2021, 10:49 AM
Mine align right behind where you have your circle, just behind the welded seam. I drilled and tapped with 8 1/4-20 button heads versus using rivnuts and are supremely solid.
besides the 2" frame, what did you tap into? it's mostly aluminum panel there, right? there is the diagonal 3/4" tubing but not sure if that's thick enough to tap.
cv2065
02-15-2021, 04:33 PM
besides the 2" frame, what did you tap into? it's mostly aluminum panel there, right? there is the diagonal 3/4" tubing but not sure if that's thick enough to tap.
Can't recall. I think I tapped into the 2" frame. I was looking at a front picture when I mentioned the 8 1/2-20 button heads, but it was actually 4 on each side in the back.
phileas_fogg
02-15-2021, 08:26 PM
Like Mark, I attached them through the trunk side aluminum but a little farther back than what you've indicated in red. I used #10-32 riv-nuts so the splash guards could be easily removed if necessary.
John
https://live.staticflickr.com/932/41941134710_a6326097ff_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26Uch9f)IMG_4822 (https://flic.kr/p/26Uch9f) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr
rich grsc
02-16-2021, 09:40 AM
You realize this is just a splash panel, not a structural part of the car? Pop rivet removal is as fast as a drill bit in the middle of the rivet.
Scott Zackowski
02-16-2021, 02:52 PM
You realize this is just a splash panel, not a structural part of the car? Pop rivet removal is as fast as a drill bit in the middle of the rivet.
I agree.
The splash panels are a custom fit part of the build. See where they fit best and where you can attach them, trim as needed. I used AL L-shaped (made) brackets to attach both front and rear splash guards to lower fiberglass body.