jdm65's JDM-inspired Gen3 Coupe Build

[jdm65]

Lets gooooooo engine is in, all brake lines are ran and mounted, caliper setup is complete, pedalbox is welded in, in theory I could roll the car down a hill and it would stop and steer!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8D1qGiUGAFOzcNBXn5gdAqN9jJIk66Y4RLyYcCV4Q61WO 2iyRmto59PlW8ANYv6q_hJ8T93M9d4V7_JalUVQHESKjOWTr-oc6iJpCT6na2qLJyUcmSEtZRChGYS2i4qkqNmpAebg5wcuXHF1 NejoUByow=w2594-h1946-s-no?authuser=0


Why I decided to build a Factory Five, and who am I?

My interest has always been with JDM stuff, but sometime in highschool, one of my best friend's father built a Factory Five '33 Hot Rod with a Gen1 Coyote. That car was SO cool, that I started to dive really deep into the super rich American car culture. My first time seeing the Coupe was actually on Factory Five's website - I didn't even know anything about Cobras! Over the next few years dipping in and out of school and life, my dream Factory Five flipped from the 818C, to the GTM, back to a Cobra, but ultimately I settled on the Coupe. Fastfoward to today, sometime in December of 2020, I decided that, if there was any time to build the car, it would be now.

I'm a freelance artist running a vinyl shop - so I'll probably end up drawing my Coupe at some point... but I've decided to save that for AFTER I finish the car hahah


So, what am I building?

As an artist by trade and a JDM guy at heart, my plan for the car mostly revolves around the aesthetics of the car rather than the performance - which isn't to say it'll be slow, I don't think ANY Factory Five can be slow considering the usual powerplant offerings and the sheer minimal weight of EVERY F5 car haha... That being said... this is my first experience with anything American, and I wanted something special. So whatever results from this project will hopefully reflect my experiences building Japanese cars and a new interest in stuff from this side of the pond!

At first when I pulled the trigger on the kit back in December, I just wanted to experience something American for the first time - so I had pretty simple plans for the car. I wanted a Coyote-powered coupe, and some cool Japanese wheels, but aside from that I didn't have a lot of other plans.

But I guess in the months in between I kinda let my mind run wild with the car and here we are haha!

Around the beginning of the 1980s in Japan, tuning culture, especially top speed racing, was exploding in popularity in Japan. The best drivers and the most well-known tuners would drive what's known as the Tomei Expressway in everything from Datsun Z cars to imported Panteras. It's actually a really interesting history to what is essentially the beginning of the Japanese car tuning craze - lots of the drivers and tuners went on to open some of the best-known tuning companies today out of Japan like Trust, HKS, and Top Secret.

Here's an awesome photo of Trust founder Mr Okawa in his '71 Trans Am racing a privateer's Pantera at the Yatabe High Speed Test Track!

https://i.imgur.com/FHrtqFB.png

So, what am I building? A JDM inspired Coupe! A Coupe that would look perfectly in place alongside those Japanese-tuned American cars of the 80s and 90s.


Here's the shortlist...

Gen 3 IRS Complete Kit
3.73 Torsen diff
Gen1 F150 Coyote with custom BMW ITBs, Boss 302 Cams, managed by a Link G4+ Thunder
Tremec TKX
Cadillac ATS 4-piston Brembos, stock S550 PP1 rear brakes (vented!)
Volk Racing TE37V Mark II, 18x11 -7 front, 18x11 -33 rear


A few custom things that are a little less traditional...

Air cup suspension (retains regular spring+shock for regular driving, but can be raised 2-3" when needed)
BRIDE Zieg III Bucket Seats
STACK digital instrument cluster
Assisted electric power steering, controlled via the Link G4+ to only be active under 15 kph.
Full 10-step traction control
Again, the ITB'd Coyote, with velocity stacks off an AE86 Corolla

Body wise, I'm not planning to do anything radical with the Coupe shape, I honestly think it's one of the prettiest shapes to come out of the 60's and 70's. But I do want to add my personality to it, so the current plan is solid color, no stripes, and a shakotan-style slit spoiler under the cam tail. I'd like to do some kind of airdam as well, but I'm going to focus on getting the car together so I don't get caught up on lengthy custom projects. I could have gotten the Coupe-R airdam, but I don't think I actually can due to the ride height of my car haha.


The Drivetrain

Early on into the build I had MUCH more budget oriented plans which revolved around an SBC with quad webers (I'm so sorry!!) but thankfully a friend talked some sense into me, and with the fortunate timing of a low mileage Gen1 F150 Coyote showing up on FB Marketplace, I pulled the trigger to the correct side!

I know some people are looking into the F150 swap as it's much cheaper, so I'd like to share what I've found:

The main differences are as follows:

Intake

The intake is different than on the Mustang Coyotes across all three generations. It's got longer runners which are optimized for better bottom end torque. No problem, either run it or swap for a very cheap 2018+ intake.

Firing Order

The Gen1 F150 Coyote and Mustang Coyote use the same firing order, however, the Gen2 and Gen3 F150 Coyotes use a different firing order.

Oil Pump

The F150 Coyote uses a smaller oil pump. It's not possible to just replace the gears (afaik) as the housing is different, so a complete Mustang pump is needed! I've been told the F150 timing cover will fit over the mustang pump fine (it's different) but I haven't confirmed this yet. I'm just gonna do it and find out, haha

Compression

This is slightly more significant to me, the Gen1 F150 Coyote has a 10.5:1 compression compared to the Mustangs 11:1. This has been changed with the Gen2 and Gen3, and both the F150 Coyote and Mustang coyote are now 12:1 comp

Cams

The F150 uses a different intake cam, not sure if the exhaust is different, but probably!

Other Differences

The F150 tune is optimized for towing and low end torque, whereas the Mustang is optimized for performance. Also the F150 Coyote has an oil cooler that apparently will not clear on the Gen3 Coupe.


What I've done to mitigate these differences:
So seeing as the Coyote's weakest point is apparently the powdered metal oil pump, I've decided to just replace the whole F150 oil pump with a billet gear replaced unit from Boundary Racing Pumps. As for the cams, I've got a set of Boss 302 cams I'll be using instead, and the entire intake I've replaced with my custom BMW ITB setup. The differences in the tune are also irrelevant to me, as I'm using a standalone ECU. I'm leaving the compression as is, and I don't have to mess with the firing order as I have a Gen1 Coyote. As for the front timing cover, I cannot recall which builder documented this, but he just used the F150 timing cover and alternator and called it a day, which is what I'm also planning to do.

All in, I'm rolling into this setup at around $9k CAD (around $6500 USD), which is under what a crate Coyote goes for. I should match, or exceed the performance of a crate motor from Ford! The majority of that is in the very custom ITB setup and ECU setup, so you could do this for far cheaper simply by using a 2018+ Mustang manifold or similar.

Here's how that $9k breaks down:

$3000CAD: 113k kms Gen1 F150 Coyote
$500CAD: Donor ITBs from a BMW M5
$2000CAD: Custom ITB setup using aforementioned ITBs
$500CAD: Boundary Racing Pumps billet oil pump
$300CAD: Used Boss 302 Cams
$2000CAD: Link G4+ Thunder+custom modified harness


I'll need some miscellaneous stuff like my custom fuel rails and BMW throttle actuators (which are fairly cheap used at around ~$200 a set), so for sure, absolutely, under 10k CAD all said and done for the motor setup.

Disregarding the custom ITB setup which can be swapped for any other Coyote intake manifold, for essentially half the price, I have a Mustang Coyote with .5 less compression. Or, a better way to look at it, for a little less than what a crate Coyote goes for, I have a standalone ECU and custom ITBs!

If you really wanted to work on a budget - you could easily score a higher mileage Gen1 for under $1500USD, and completely disregard the internals, only changing the intake. That would get you a Coyote powerplant for quite a budget!

Also as a final note: The gen1 engines don't have the plasma'd cylinder sleeves. I'm scared of touching that kinda tech (hopefully I never have to), so I'm happy I have a regularly sleeved engine. Haha.


Are you gonna slam it?

Yes, I'm sorry ��



If you've made it this far, thank you! I'm looking forward to feedback and criticism from this community - and I'll accept all of it in earnest!

[jdm65]

Here are some of the cars I've put together over the years:

142007
142008
142009

[jdm65]

Even though my kit completion date is late March - I've started to collect some of the things I'll need ahead of time!

Here is a photo of the Gen1 F150 Coyote, and the 2020 Bullitt Mustang IRS I picked up off eBay for a VERY reasonable price - the whole setup only has 2800 miles on it!

The motor is also very very low mileage at 55k, even if it looks a little hurt (I live in Alberta and I think this was out of a daily driven F150, so it's got some typical 'berta dust, salt, and corrosion). I paid a little above average, but I got to see the engine running in the donor truck before purchasing, so I think it was worth it.

142011

And one bank of the S85 throttles - you can see the central ground shaft connecting all 5 throttles. The first and last are unique - the first has some bolt hole castings that I'll be using to mount the linkage setup, and the last has the OEM BMW hall effect TPS sensor that we will be wiring into our Link G4+. The three in the middle are identical, so one of these will obviously be not used and removed from the bank of throttles haha.

[edwardb]

Age jabs aside, welcome to the fun. Many of us (myself included) were living paycheck to paycheck raising a family, buying a house, making car payments, getting kids through college, etc. etc. when in our younger days. So even considering a car build or hobby like this one was out of the question. Obviously don't know anything about your life situation but congratulations on being able to swing a build like this at an earlier time in your life. Enjoy it. You'll be my age faster than you can believe. Trust me.

Your build sounds interesting and I will enjoy following along. I'm curious why you describe the Coupe as "Mustang based" and therefore more reliable. Yes, a Coyote (although obviously highly modified) and a couple IRS pieces. But not many signs of a Mustang elsewhere. These aren't yesterday's donor builds. Especially not the latest Coupe. Not saying it can't be a reliable daily driver if that's what you want. But not necessarily because of Mustang roots IMO.

I finished our Gen 3 Coupe about a year ago, and was able to drive it about 2,000 miles this past shortened season. We absolutely love it. Build thread and video in my sig line below.

Again, congrats and welcome aboard.

[jdm65]

Age jabs aside, welcome to the fun. Many of us (myself included) were living paycheck to paycheck raising a family, buying a house, making car payments, getting kids through college, etc. etc. when in our younger days. So even considering a car build or hobby like this one was out of the question. Obviously don't know anything about your life situation but congratulations on being able to swing a build like this at an earlier time in your life. Enjoy it. You'll be my age faster than you can believe. Trust me.

Your build sounds interesting and I will enjoy following along. I'm curious why you describe the Coupe as "Mustang based" and therefore more reliable. Yes, a Coyote (although obviously highly modified) and a couple IRS pieces. But not many signs of a Mustang elsewhere. These aren't yesterday's donor builds. Especially not the latest Coupe. Not saying it can't be a reliable daily driver if that's what you want. But not necessarily because of Mustang roots IMO.

I finished our Gen 3 Coupe about a year ago, and was able to drive it about 2,000 miles this past shortened season. We absolutely love it. Build thread and video in my sig line below.

Again, congrats and welcome aboard.

I've actually already combed through most of your build thread - really big fan of what you've done to the interior. I also really appreciate your attention to cleanliness with the Coyote install - the modifications you made to the cover are really nice and I actually prefer that look a lot over the shapes that Ford gave it.

Well, I basically figured, major wear components are mostly Mustang ones (brakes, steering components, some engine components), so if anything were to go wrong once the car's complete it shouldn't be too difficult to keep on the road, which is basically my definition of a reliable driver - something that doesn't break often, but when it does, is very simple to get going again. I do realize that the entire rear IRS cradle is Factory Five, alongside my entire front and rear suspension, as I'll be going with the Complete kit, so I see where you're coming at there!

Apologies about the age jabs though guys - I promise those will be the only ones in this build thread haha!

[David Williamson]

Where in Alberta are you? I am just outside Edmonton so if you want to see a finshed one you are welcome to a "masked" outside visit when it warms up.
you mentioned complete kit, you know it can't be imported into Canada and you need to get a special "Canada" kit. The parts that are not in the kit have to be purchased from another supplier.
Check out the "Canadian section" of the web site for lots of info on how to do it.
What you are planning looks interesting, you will have a unique car whan it is done.
David W

[Straversi]

Congratulations and welcome. Look forward to following along with this one. Sounds like it is going to be awesome.
-Steve

[jdm65]

Where in Alberta are you? I am just outside Edmonton so if you want to see a finshed one you are welcome to a "masked" outside visit when it warms up.
you mentioned complete kit, you know it can't be imported into Canada and you need to get a special "Canada" kit. The parts that are not in the kit have to be purchased from another supplier.
Check out the "Canadian section" of the web site for lots of info on how to do it.
What you are planning looks interesting, you will have a unique car whan it is done.
David W

I'm down in Calgary but I spend a lot of time in Edmonton! When things clear up I'd be happy to do that!

I'm currently chatting with Ryan Valin right now for the rest of the kit - hoping that I can get the completion parts ahead of time so I can have something to work on right away haha!

Thanks all for the kind comments. Can't wait to get started.

[David Williamson]

Ryan got into this after I got mine and from what everyone says he sounds like the guy to deal with. wish he was in business sooner. My Coupe was the first Gen 3 in Canada.
David W

[Logan]

Welcome jdm65! Like you, I think I’m on the younger side of the average FFR-builder scale.

I like the plan, especially the ITBs! Keep the forum updated with your build once you get going.

[jdm65]

Welcome jdm65! Like you, I think I’m on the younger side of the average FFR-builder scale.

I like the plan, especially the ITBs! Keep the forum updated with your build once you get going.

Thank you! I was actually taking a look at your thread the other day - helped me figure out how to run M14 studs on all four corners - thanks for sharing that info!

It's already been a blast picking up a lot of knowledge from a side of cars I've never touched before haha

I should have an update soon... like you I picked up my motor ahead of the rest of the kit, so the plan is to have a relatively drop-in driveline setup before the kit arrives. Sending the harness and other items off to my friend at Carmena Performance to get made this week, and I'm pretty sure my wheels will be here sometime late week! Sadly got an update from Summit on my TKX, delayed until April! Hopefully that's the only delay, but I guess its only understandable since it's a brand new trans.

[ProJoe]

welcome to the fray fellow JDM fan.

question on those Cadillac brakes, are they a direct bolt on? if not what's required to fit them? I really dislike my SVE mustang calipers when compared to the OEM S550 IRS rears and would love a simple upgrade.

best of luck on the madness. If I can give any advice it's to not have a timeframe. this isn't a race, it's about doing it the right way. time be damned.

[jdm65]

welcome to the fray fellow JDM fan.

question on those Cadillac brakes, are they a direct bolt on? if not what's required to fit them? I really dislike my SVE mustang calipers when compared to the OEM S550 IRS rears and would love a simple upgrade.

best of luck on the madness. If I can give any advice it's to not have a timeframe. this isn't a race, it's about doing it the right way. time be damned.

As far as I can tell they're a really simple swap for SN95s with a kit from a company called S&S Engineering, the kit is just two press-in offset nuts and a rotor spacer.

Here's a picture of them completed on an SN95. I think the only thing I don't like is that I now have to figure out how to go a smaller rotor out back since my S550 takeout IRS is from a Bullitt Mustang with 13" rotors

143060

Totally agreed on the process of things! Just aiming to get it on the road relatively quickly, I enjoy modifying things a step at a time instead of pulling cars off the road for years at a time to do everything all at once haha

[jdm65]

Couple very fun but fairly uneventful updates!

We've mounted the ITBs to a different Coyote now to test fitment and get a few things made, namely the harness and fuel rails! Turns out that the intake runner spacing between the BMW S85 V10s and the Coyote is EXTREMELY close - almost! We're gonna have to definitely make a new central shaft though unfortunately.

Also got a chance to check clearances with my AE86 20V velocity stacks - no problems! Now just to get the adapter flanges made and a second set of stacks purchased....

I'm still very happily surprised that the ID of my corolla stacks is the same as my BMW V10 ITBs haha. Wouldn't have guessed. My corolla is a 1.6L, the BMW V10 is a 5 liter, yet the velocity stack ID is the same, crazy.

https://i.imgur.com/jfcMj9H.jpg

Something also showed up at my door this week... My wheels!!!

I did some calculations with wheel fitment, here's what I've found:

Allegedly the Logano Coupe that Factory Five built on the Forgestars ran 18x10 +6 up front, and 18x12 +6 out back with a 40mm spacer, effectively making it a -34.

With the Rays ZE40s, the wheel size was 18x11 +15 square, with a 1 inch spacer out front, and a 1.5" spacer in the rear, making the effective wheel offset 18x11 -10 and 18x11 -23

My wheels are 18x11 -7 in the front, and 18x11 -30 out back. So, in theory, they should fit fine. I really hope they do, because if they don't, I can't really fit them on anything else I own hahahahah

https://i.imgur.com/FynwKCo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gdYZW2r.jpg

Check out that dish though! The rears are the most aggressive face and lip combination available, it's something like 5.5" of dish.

Anyways. my Mustang cams also came, so it's time to wrap up the very mild amount of engine assembly.

Here's what is getting done to the Coyote:

Mustang Cams
Boundary Billet Oil pump+gears (this is a failure point for Coyotes)
16lb Exedy flywheel
Moroso 20570 Oil pan / pickup

For the Gen1 F150 Coyote, the oil pump gears are actually smaller than the Mustang counterpart, so a complete Mustang pump is needed. Boundary pumps sells a fully assembled unit so that's what I'll be using. From what I've read there's no issues with running a Mustang pump with the F150 timing cover, but if I run into any issues I'll report back haha. Still planning on running the F150 alternator.

Fun!!

[q4stix]

Very nice! I'm looking forward to seeing this all come together!

[Bluemont]

Awesome wheel choice. I've ordered my kit and am waiting for it to arrive in early July. Just pulled the trigger on ordering my drivetrain too. I'll be following along.

[Rsnake]

Love the wheels! How much did they cost if I may ask?

[jdm65]

They were around $3500USD, definitely not cheap, but they're very very light forged wheels, so I guess you get what you pay for haha!

[jdm65]

Oh boy, here it is, and with the state of the world in consideration, actually in quite good time.

The Coupe is here!!

Sadly, most of the things I need to put it together, is quite a long ways away, so I'm going to have to plan around that.

Sadly I don't get to see a Stewart truck like most of you guys, BUT, I did get to crack open what is basically a life-size model car box!

https://i.imgur.com/1jqwR47.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DtPYKqE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iXVK7qH.jpg

Stressful, but fun overall! I used a pair of car dollies to get it rolling and off a makeshift ramp into the garage.

https://i.imgur.com/tvg52gt.jpg

Actually shocked at how large the Coupes are - for some reason I was picturing something a bit smaller. Sitting next to my JZX100 the huge width of the car is super obvious. Only a foot shorter than my JZX!

Naturally I have to do SOMETHING, so before I go and check all the stuff that was sent to me - here's the TE37s mocked up!

https://i.imgur.com/jHM1wW6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2ed2MwA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CNrP1ls.jpg

Very cool! Obviously not physically drivable at that height, but it was cool to see!

Anyways! Onto the chassis! I gotta find a way to store the back half and nose section before I can get started, so it'll probably be a bit until the next update. Rough plan right now is to just get the aluminum fitted with clecos and sent off to powerdercoat alongside the rest of the items that need to be coated.

I'm not even sure if I should run brake lines and fuel lines without literally the majority of the pieces needed to get it to be a rolling chassis. Hopefully not held up too long on that stuff, but I'm sure I can keep myself busy.

But yes! Very exciting

[TheMole]

What a nice start! What helped me at this stage was going through the boxes and checking off every part in every box against the insanely long inventory lists (At this point you might be thinking.."Dang this is going to be a lot of work!").

Then you'll have a clean "future delivery" list you can check off as items come in (which they will, sporadically). It helps to be very detailed, focused and organized here (there's probably some stuff that got missed and you will want to let FFR know). I'd also start a step farther back and review your on-line order against the detail -as much as you can. Of course, not enough detail on the summarized online order to be sure, but in my case they forgot to include the gauges (which have a unique part number on the online order form and therefore made the missing parts easy to find).

Enough of the old dude talk. Dive in and have fun!!

[jdm65]

What a nice start! What helped me at this stage was going through the boxes and checking off every part in every box against the insanely long inventory lists (At this point you might be thinking.."Dang this is going to be a lot of work!").

Then you'll have a clean "future delivery" list you can check off as items come in (which they will, sporadically). It helps to be very detailed, focused and organized here (there's probably some stuff that got missed and you will want to let FFR know). I'd also start a step farther back and review your on-line order against the detail -as much as you can. Of course, not enough detail on the summarized online order to be sure, but in my case they forgot to include the gauges (which have a unique part number on the online order form and therefore made the missing parts easy to find).

Enough of the old dude talk. Dive in and have fun!!

Thank you!!

Conveniently, I deleted the gauges from the kit hahah! I have something different planned so, it looks like I'm good there!

That sounds like a great plan! I have some ideas of what I can do now for the car, so inventorying what I have and what's coming will help me plan what I can do on the car and what I can't do.

The three items I really really want, are the rear control arms and front upper control arms. The rest can actually wait a bit.

Since I'm so limited on what I can do right now, I think I'll get a start on the aluminum panels - it would be fantastic to have the chassis all bonded up and ready for mechanicals. I know I'll be more limited on space, but after reviewing the build guide again, I think it should be alright.

I wonder if anyone has ever done bodywork BEFORE go-karting? Haha

[James Morse]

You mentioned early on about "complete sound deadening". Could you say a bit more about your plans for that? IIRC, Paul mentioned in his "what I would do different next time" section (which was short) something about the sound deadening near the exhaust. If you could talk a little about your plans there I'd be interested to hear. My feel is, the cars are generally so overpowered that adding some weight in interest of sound doesn't really matter much. I'm talking about a street car - no doubt some will throw up their hands at the idea of adding weight, but, I think if it's effective, for street use it only makes sense. I think. Also of course I would love to hear from anyone who has addressed the sound issue. Thanks!

[jdm65]

You mentioned early on about "complete sound deadening". Could you say a bit more about your plans for that? IIRC, Paul mentioned in his "what I would do different next time" section (which was short) something about the sound deadening near the exhaust. If you could talk a little about your plans there I'd be interested to hear. My feel is, the cars are generally so overpowered that adding some weight in interest of sound doesn't really matter much. I'm talking about a street car - no doubt some will throw up their hands at the idea of adding weight, but, I think if it's effective, for street use it only makes sense. I think. Also of course I would love to hear from anyone who has addressed the sound issue. Thanks!

I do have an answer for this!

So I have a couple friends who do a lot of car audio stuff and one of them recommended to me to use mass loaded vinyl in addition to the usual Dynamat type material. He did his whole floor and inner doors and I can personally say that it made a huge difference.

I'm also planning on doing the backside of the body with some sound deadening - right behind where the side pipes mount.

[Logan]

Hey jdm65, the forum is hungry....feed us Coupe build updates!

Have you got a rolling chassis yet? Very interested in your wheel fitment, as you have some of the most aggressive offset specs discussed on the Coupe forum.

[jdm65]

Update coming!

Also, thanks for reaching out!

[jdm65]

Hi all!!

It's been a while!

So, as many other builders are experiencing right now - we're in an unprecedented time for supply chain issues and manufacturing.

I wasn't able to get the majority of my components until a week or so before Christmas, so instead of jumping around the manual, in the months leading up to right now I decided to just put the project aside and wait for the parts patiently. I really wanted to hang all the suspension and get the car on the ground first, with the body on, so I could determine if I needed to make any chassis or body changes and to confirm fitment before proceeding.

Despite the large parts delivery, I was actually missing two key components preventing me from getting the car on the ground, namely, Heim joints for the IRS toe arms, and a pair of springs. I got the missing Heims from a performance store in-town and just used some springs off some AE86 coilovers I had lying around (which happen to be the correct diameter) just to get the car on the ground.

Also included in my IRS prep was to get the center section and spindles off my donor rear end. Since it only has 2000kms on it, I decided to just take them off the subframe and put them directly on the car. Originally, like Logan did on his Coupe-R, I wanted to run M14 studs all around instead of the 1/2" recommended by Factory Five, but more on that later.

Corolla springs!
https://i.imgur.com/rAO5zex.png

Cutting and drilling the spindles was super straightforward. Clean up the aluminum afterwards!!
https://i.imgur.com/moLAwop.png

Center section in! This is a 3.73 torsen out of a 2020 Bullitt Mustang
https://i.imgur.com/babiNwS.png

Rear suspension complete!
https://i.imgur.com/zkNg7qf.png

I'm still waiting on pads for my ATS-V Brembos and my bumpsteer kit to finish the front suspension, so I just threw it together with the included Mustang brakes with no tie rods and steering arms for now. Didn't tighten the axle nut down, I'll do that when the front suspension is complete.

[jdm65]

And now... time for wheels!

First up just for fun was a set of 17x9.5 +38 OG Volk TE37s just for fun - totally not the right look hahahaha. There is a HUGE spacer on this haha!!
https://i.imgur.com/o3sCv1C.jpg

Next up are a set of borrowed Cosmis XT206Rs in 18x11 +8, with a 45~mm spacer, effectively making it a 18x11 -37, with a 265/35R18 Zestino Gredge 07R (this is the tire size I'm planning on running) - it's absolutely bang on! This was with approximately -3.5deg of camber. I'm planning to dial as much of that out as I can.
https://i.imgur.com/lmFQrTR.png
https://i.imgur.com/PEqjHzm.png

And finally, my Volk TE37V Mark IIs - in 18x11 -30 and 18x11 -7 without spacers! These tires are an extremely small 235/40 thrown on purely so I could test fit these wheels - these will not be used!
https://i.imgur.com/4zvmeGE.png
https://i.imgur.com/npiqekg.png

All in all, I'm EXTREMELY happy with my fitment - 18x11 -30 and 18x11 -7 fit perfectly without camber and without spacers. With the tire size I'm planning on running (265/35), the fitment will be perfect.

So, as I mentioned earlier, I originally wanted to run M14 studs all around, but it turns out that most Rays/Volk wheels are only drilled for M12 studs. Instead of drilling out my wheels, I decided to just run the 1/2" studs provided by Factory Five. It was an extremely close fit, but 1/2" studs fit TE37s fine! I do know that certain Japanese wheels are made for European/American cars, namely the TE37 Ultras in 20", but mine were not.

Using the race suspension pickup points and lowering the car an additional ~2" or so makes this possible, but the car is definitely far too low for most. The chassis is an even 2" off the ground with this fitment. It's not possible with the Konis and the chassis is not designed for it, which is completely understandable. I'll be using a set of custom coilovers (which I can build now that I know the dimensions I need!) and a bumpsteer kit specifically made for low Mustangs to correct my tierod angles. I'm also planning on adding an air cup kit that gives me an additional 2-3" of ride height with a push of a button!

[Bluemont]

Those wheels look killer - well done! I'll be following along to see how it goes. I just started receiving parts the week before Christmas. They must have gotten a big shipment in around that time.

[jdm65]

Those wheels look killer - well done! I'll be following along to see how it goes. I just started receiving parts the week before Christmas. They must have gotten a big shipment in around that time.

Thank you!! I'm really happy with how they fit!

[ProJoe]

Yes!! That looks incredible!

[slarson]

I love the lowered look! Reminds of my high school and college days.
My coupe delivery is in July. I'll be following along to see suspension details.

[jdm65]

Thanks guys!!

Yeah, the chassis is not meant to go this low, so a couple changes need to be made haha. I'll be sharing the whole process of course!

The whole chassis is only about 2" off the ground so it's quite low

[jdm65]

Not a super interesting update but a few parts for the car are rolling in and I thought I'd share:

First off are these super slick carbon-kevlar Bride Zieg III seats! Most don't like how uncomfortable full buckets are to get in and out of, but I like them enough to have them in every car I've owned, and this isn't going to be any different.

https://i.imgur.com/YgimziT.png

Second are these Cadillac ATS Brembos - a few others have used this kit, if you don't know about it already, these are roughly $120USD/side from RA and the conversion kit can be had pretty cheap as well.

https://i.imgur.com/6lO9mZ0.jpg

These aren't for the car, but that's certainly not gonna stop me from test fitting them anyways, some new and shiny Advan GTs that are for my S15 (since I robbed it of its wheels last week lol)

https://i.imgur.com/QR0kimd.jpg

I also got my ECU in~! This is a Link G4+ Thunder. It'll support both the mixed speed density/alpha N tune I'll need to run the ITBs and also the Coyote's 8 injector/spark drives + the 4 VVT drives and (potentially later) dual e-throttle. It'll also allow me to run full traction control and launch control, as well as some other trick features like flex fuel mapping with a flex fuel sensor, and more! I'm also going to run my EPAS off this, allowing me to turn it off at driving speeds.

https://i.imgur.com/LS8ODIV.jpg

And lastly, got a chance over the holidays to strip the accessories off the Coyote and get ready for that Mustang cam swap, Boundary billet oil pump gears, and billet crank sprocket. All upgrades necessary for the 8000+RPM I want to run!

https://i.imgur.com/ss7Abbx.jpg

Happy holidays and new years everyone! I hope it was great! :)

[q4stix]

Nice parts update!
I have the Gias II ready to go in but I'm keeping the Zieg III in the back of my mind in case I can't get the right position for the reclining seats.
I didn't know the G4+ could do cam control too for the Coyote so that's good to know. Hopefully your ITBs will be singing in no time!

[Alphamacaroon]

Gonna be honest with you... I want to hate this build. You're talking to a guy who built an old school coupe who doesn't generally like stanced rides— but I gotta say... I'm completely digging that profile. It definitely works with the Coupe. Can't wait to see how this turns out. :cool:

[jdm65]

Nice parts update!
I have the Gias II ready to go in but I'm keeping the Zieg III in the back of my mind in case I can't get the right position for the reclining seats.
I didn't know the G4+ could do cam control too for the Coyote so that's good to know. Hopefully your ITBs will be singing in no time!

I saw your build, amazing work, and as a big fan of Bride seats I'm stoked to see a set in another Coupe haha!

Honestly, what I really wanted were the Histrix, but without actually having tried, they seem super hard to get a hold of and likely extremely expensive. I might throw a inquiry email towards some of the parts importers I use but I think the Coupe has enough expensive eye-candy parts for now haha.

Bride Histrix seats for reference:

https://i.imgur.com/nTKYK7k.png

And regarding the ECU and VCT control, it's able to do it! My friend Blaine from Carmena Performance was the one to help Link with the Coyote's VCT. He's the one who sold me the ECU.

I'm working on the ITBs now, they're likely going to take me a while as it's an entirely custom one-off setup, but the bulk of the work (the adapter plate to the throttles themselves) is finished, and I just need to design and produce the adapter to the velocity stacks (super easy), the intake spacer, the central bell crank mount, and the throttle linkages.

I'm foreseeing some sensor calibration issues as well, so that's likely to sink most of my time with the driveline prep. It's super funky with BMW TPS sensors, likely a GM open element IAT, and probably a LINK MAP sensor haha


Gonna be honest with you... I want to hate this build. You're talking to a guy who built an old school coupe who doesn't generally like stanced rides— but I gotta say... I'm completely digging that profile. It definitely works with the Coupe. Can't wait to see how this turns out. :cool:

Thanks for having an open mind! I think what's fantastic about Factory Five is that these cars are essentially entirely blank canvases... there's so much potential for creativity and individuality within these cars, and that's the part of them I like the most. What's great is that nobody has to like my car - I'm building it because I have a vision in my head I really want to see through, and if someone disagrees, they can just build their own! Really appreciate your kind words and honesty. I'm also very excited to see this project through haha. Me personally I'm just waiting for the first JZ or RB powered Factory Five :P

[Alphamacaroon]

Thanks for having an open mind! I think what's fantastic about Factory Five is that these cars are essentially entirely blank canvases... there's so much potential for creativity and individuality within these cars, and that's the part of them I like the most. What's great is that nobody has to like my car - I'm building it because I have a vision in my head I really want to see through, and if someone disagrees, they can just build their own! Really appreciate your kind words and honesty. I'm also very excited to see this project through haha. Me personally I'm just waiting for the first JZ or RB powered Factory Five :P

Hah— and truly I could never actually "hate" someone's build (just said that for shock value :D). Every build is a joy to watch. Like you said, that's why we build these things— the creativity and individuality.

I have to admit that now I'm curious what a set of Aerodiscs would look like on it...

Also, I am REALLY interested in your ITBs. Are you going to try to retain the DBW? If I could find a set of ITBs that retain the DBW, I would buy them in a heartbeat.

[jdm65]

Hah— and truly I could never actually "hate" someone's build (just said that for shock value :D). Every build is a joy to watch. Like you said, that's why we build these things— the creativity and individuality.

I have to admit that now I'm curious what a set of Aerodiscs would look like on it...

Also, I am REALLY interested in your ITBs. Are you going to try to retain the DBW? If I could find a set of ITBs that retain the DBW, I would buy them in a heartbeat.

I can answer that haha! Here is a photoshop with some SSR Formula Aero Mesh wheels. Super cool. But I wanted really lightweight wheels, so I had to go with the forged 1-piece TE37s.

https://i.imgur.com/yfKTbuB.png

So, I actually do have a solution for DBW and ITBs that I was going to use, but it requires a little bit of programming that I want to bypass for now. My solution was to use two BMW M3 DBW actuators connected to my Link ECU (the ECU needs to support dual DBW, which is really uncommon). However, Innov8 has this brilliant setup using the stock Coyote DBW throttle body, and from what I've read online, their setup is around 8k. I know everyone likes to talk about the Borla setup, but I personally think Innov8's ITB setup is a little better engineered for the same, or less money.

https://i.imgur.com/YDvw9ln.png

Another solution is to simply attach a DBW actuator to any of the more commonly available ITB setups, something like this would probably work:

https://i.imgur.com/WiU3rvi.png

This setup is made by EFIhardware, but you'd likely need two, making things super expensive and again, you'd need the ECU to support dual DBW, which most do not. I do know there's a workaround involving just syncing both the actuators to act like one, but then you run into funky issues with making sure they are opening the same amount haha.

[J R Jones]

me personally i'm just waiting for the first jz or rb powered factory five :p

jdm65
pics attached
jim

[jdm65]

jdm65
pics attached
jim

This is awesome - where can I find that build thread?

[cgundermann]

Really, really looking forward to following along on this build. Like your taste!

Chris

[jdm65]

Really, really looking forward to following along on this build. Like your taste!

Chris

Thank you!!

Probably no updates for a while as work is back in full swing, but I hope to wrap up the brake/steering soon, couple neat things there I'm looking forward to :)

Excited to see progress on your build thread too! Hope to see lots of carbon haha!

[gtrclark]

Hey there, just checking to see if you have any new pics of this build! Would love to see some more angles of those wheels on the car!

[jdm65]

Hey hey I have a LOT of updates!!

Sorry for being quiet for the past few months life got pretty busy with the whole world opening up again but I finally got a chance to work on the car again.

I'll write up a big big post later in chunks but here's a sneak preview for now!

spoiler alert I redesigned my entire ITB setup, it now uses BMW M3 ITBs which are larger and have a straight intake chamber instead of the angled M5 ones

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXpZxoJvh_iL86hUk19kOx7g2O_3JykoL_SeGInd5VAUQ Ema1aIqEuhwNAK36QC1Hvh8uSoZSIdjtLzII81LT8AGi70pJ6S YHPgHLqwnb1vvNv0vg06j1RkDMP9KxXM35kOaLc1YZlMMj7fYE GupCAkUg=w1460-h1946-no?authuser=0

[q4stix]

Awesome! Glad to hear of the progress. I'll be looking forward to reading the writeup about it all!

[jdm65]

Ok guys, here it is

I spent probably well over a hundred hours into this project over the past few months but we're nearly finished!

Here are my fully custom BMW ITBs for my Coyote!

Originally I was going to use an adapter from my friend Blaine at Carmena Performance but I decided to remake it myself using M3 ITBs instead of M5 ITBs.

This new design does away with the angled adapter and the angled M5 ITBs for a direct 15 degree angle (matching the angle of the ports on the Coyote head)

Really quick as a note before I go into this I'm absolutely not an engineer of any kind, and this was actually my first CAD project, but I did get a lot of input from a lot of my close friends who are engineers of all shapes and sizes!

But here it is! This is a 3D render I did of all the assembled components.

ITB manifolds will require some kind of vacuum collector, and that's the two black boxes directly underneath the filter plates.

The velocity stacks are my design, but for the actual car I'm just going to use Toyota 4AGE ones because I made an adapter to make them fit (they are approximately the same inner diameter as the 52mm BMW ITBs)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/91Vuu9k1WwpGu7-o_6U7N_-Sa_BLlo7tka5FsSlqU-NcV2620t4BMlBWwzfVOXWWhGxntBLEuixOgBnkWZyuotrxGCJ7 t-50xqT9v0-qk1KiAuhiU6TmFQVnrPJfikMkt22KYOwo_5guhdOAQb32er-dRUY9-4ASLYTCboIEn0nOGnrT4ZgKP6JNrNvt7O4ZuLadqCgJq8AiQbp NJ0d5Ax9f29HLzYej2hMRpWOfPsC2vBYmdzyJjvcoG6fFVkEea eWBxhfT9tZ1hYIr3nEJQf4QBjFSYzY2Gyck29vYmcI6nOzo9Td zJhh6QDqwzTCXOuCHHAWAjOrizKbKPVbmV5iHMDpyNmqe2H54Z W8S9BSnCi-yECRBHqBxHMw_BFHc5dPK27jMUpP0hBVMCVKajG5cUQITsTGZu bRWLx2C-gYVO8FOOc5-USCl5g_IR-5KUZEMkvcnzJVs4pzINZL0hcafKrPML4Tyv-6cwv5yt1Ytn2QoObreVnmOo8iZbxDXwbJfQJGglv1vjw2yPasp yYA_A0hb6OqsjZvgXybiQ-xv2FCDEJi9qCvM7aKuEjqRZx0s_vnns32X1WwKHtlBLvkmDQBA mIgJKALQwv4tkgvv90XzyZk2Hx5nmqQzVFzn5Q3Ncd_Wlmc21K q76Hz8JbHC7Y0LQILdBuD9qcpiCVLL5LT6esj2mT3-Jqdgwnp8S85J0GF2Oa7XRkqofUHORPiGHw9GstXRPGGGz6kxoN 4YH9KaRZIFQPbwe2A4rcGKVKzYqtwgMuNaBQDu21gksH9kyhtS YTRFd5x-vc269IuJlsxAJ3vIPcnedFBeSNHQ4YkDpIZS4-RQ3J4-_OarMX_H5R3VglYguJAFixplLIAmeu-M6lYBq7RNkkpdeXj7M9-Lp6U1I9OK3HNwZYbQ2nXhwLCM_TaJL4VGpGThJUKiFKxXIw=w1 296-h1296-s-no?authuser=0

Here's a close look at the throttle mechanism, which reuses a factory Ford electronic throttle body! The center brace that holds all the pieces together is going to be made out of 1/4" thick 304 stainless, cut and bent from Sendcutsend. The rod ends in this iteration of the design are just 12mm rod ends from McMaster-Carr but I'm working on a redesigned version that uses 3D printed housings with needle bearings instead which will work better and also cost significantly less. The anodized blue linkage components are my design, but I've since also resigned those to be 3D printed instead, so the new ones are uglier, and not cool and blue haha

I guess this is basically the expensive pretty design, whereas the one on the car will be the utilitarian cheap 3D printed design LOL

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v0O6qGa9sHgv01J4PLQbZCFzHHN1872nsFyx-9jRJGiBBP_kxPalqnetdci6S9z_E7s9srj3jJiWIAMrhGw9riE hOedK8OmnWhigcuM_UtwyLl8bv154fV1IjjCobJ5nlzPkw6JLO NAaXgNB4v5AWUtxoU2ptik0uPhqUHvHvG3BoB5i9Em_jmdJ7PV SFF1-t62z-hG3bXEOoRyPXl_o2Imh0NvmMCv53SQLsiZmMM29qB78co-MzIpx0fP6iXsZCQ7Qj4x9tMFw1El6xodiizU6asJurXhl672nx wNn2O97MuonG8LLZbswafhwpZGHc6CtN5oE066PJB7G7-MgNTW_KjLnv4gDGWl8TBekND3n1GXcIL30foQd1k_uNHQlYT2C vOazwj5S3uPxKxPk0C4N-JkFjtya_v--igB_1e1P6BUc8ZThyxrkH2qAaiEQT1Umxn645MjFqHgfhs-xbS2NgHcdGONRzsaEVYrMZSs0_0BnupwL2fDDkug6jv6H-GfDFPcr4BP36wvbwTSYWoD4m1es5fNCUNyn9w1gEMdw1rZZv_t ahT8Br1UqVEE0aMvCd5Vt3D_ZURmgtlT4KeI8m67SiQ0vPIXCa 6VEKH_0hdIB_VeNEshlMmtQiduzjv7O4ol4NGEAnot0QfCESh5 cH6866YKMxJPxQcvhiRAf1S7eOftOznSTcjflYBGV-QxIZ2JAIpqgA-mBf_DWZ_IOKkYewEN0dZ-wg_PzvWAw_b9OlHATAHPubCEox32_Kt1rYnWOp5HldW0Mdg1Xo lncu3Q3ee-qXtU4f2VnXt2CpmiMk_5FsBuqdHisSQgmDGwMJkmZdANh5WWXZ aFD1zrxPFA_nboA0MMGoaz3AseQmbuEr0VIAfxL_hLBuOaad1o Bg7VOAD4XncYRr0zlZOLnS0G9QlAepeK64FJvPInJp9agNg=w1 296-h1296-s-no?authuser=0

And here's the real important part - here it is on the engine, on the car, showing that both throttle rods move at the same rate. All the components in this photo except the throttle body and BMW ITBs were 3D printed out of PLA, but the final version, where there are printed parts, will be printed in carbon fiber infused nylon. The materials called PA12-CF and it's very strong, very heat resistant, and fuel resistant!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t9cTtqBtFGq2VHTzih2z6fDdM9kXWdQA7iDowaxq5w2VN10d9-jv5kGuoGp6dGcYYSujzUNkWsk0zZXqsej7qPp14PMcx70UqNB2 bT8ddUxIrVSwlwA9ndOUo0SnKH9MLaX9U7QL0sVdadPBrhkhEo EpVn4xrYZhrW2T6BFEpCWWiCnKXorb_lO8tIf0xnzTmLyJRrc7 Qk9S9A5Ps0jjvouT3-29oRI1fkW3YQpKNGh7wKdXvZX5FAUVGdLqWAiU9kiGkQKVey3N wf6fnLyDOrPBFO6H1WjNjgkoCP7SLYr8YwW7dRyIQGnmrd0TAC EpSiTYvzmq3xjHjfn0W5Tvn1RaQOt_ZM9cq00Ok7jY5ifTJXwc HagutaO4YlmjU9r1sjUvrlLNLQMFiF9A54gjOfWJOE4ByUK-xKzb_7wh-HcteK6xoUIX9lLDzOe37mZCFETQY4SAL767otkETN-xvj4eCK9iZOfCjXNEu4Ns8KiizblDmYAEr9M160LLcnyZExsx1 J4OfUQG0E5fKQcm7iEytse6TF3mtjP0Ljy3uDAW3tx5MXKvvkx U3Fy6TvQVn10KrilbU4TWPuVZ74WfALVDHWnju3s-e7Vg9-SLDQ-RfBVaNW32ijBnLXy78aR3C5qLiiSFaAmipgSnGtkQpYL8DSxXg QDrkESfYxmvyH32Lv3s2NV4ZFuw8tgqib9245jOZHoI6v36mV0 br-2PZhh-ef6mJNNVQHUNNlJWVRjQqjTWCyJmGdudRDIQzKC9OZuU2J34dd F0T8GEoqCEyw2g5iEfGa1NPiohUM4gw8wDa7EaSnaD8Fc5wpu0 rnpiztpaPCZeDiesRgDEJnX8yLdjLYDJPxRrRv_kDt1ah4MJva wDpYNnxrJqycemawQW3oj_idI3SGepc75Du3GTsQzxToNwxwkH 3dt9gpAnqhjs43MxNQ=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

Here's a cool photo of the adapter printing! This one's a prototype, so it's mostly hollow. I still have to make some final tweaks before I get this thing produced.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lu6NK6sPQ654f0nkg2EEDPTJlxo1ftSwMjmbcOdAwtV3syzGt3 6d-gPdwnXd1QYuzxQfHvBwwDusyfHCu52F9wlaCVAGL_Mhe-2VeZqktUQMx2M-iEzh900_7VDvTgvUBMssFwOaGQWUDf4joi1fGl4Wt21i_ICLkM 1nMz-BOKZXROev5MZhuiR40KJLP24j7jlIW2lUo7ZIu-mdzGaiVRUqhuVgU1Bzf_Ulhj_-m8Is1OP2h1IYZJtsGxPTqdMyZLkglrHF88DyYnKwi_na2j49n0 cQZSBcbsaSTDPK5clamZplIelF6tXlFksfGiBNOmWg0leqhp08 ebaunGTBXoELKaxXr6T0qTMdGeOhiVzoTvAmWe5ziZ6DMD1ath aFpa824jRzwrW9_XuO0uhL-LDkGEnt6Drmg5N3YUqcT0Cwf209JjxJrxSoH8Xf1pSLXf1Qtjy JtLX20MB4LMPTHFWJ85n4d7HpQ4h0TgMv3xd4oNoXxA3gIgFjL ox5QYnFbNs2vbBPF8YQGhrSzDxPPbrOXBFhxtjSEwyu-PJQaeCu6MkRu7G2wroJ5DyqB0pKBBc7KmOj23WkhkUXfYNtzle jzI5ybWQvfva7FnygHMBaPi9PP5RQftWU47sQXPVYUsGRzfh1s 6bUZAiean7sgiVCdlVoZDkXqJ1eisM7eVp1KBGyUw1YG0Rdzvv tfWQ7IpqLoo2WAMd_2altDOOjyCBTfVSPmZ4LnCLULPTNvNanN MbTZZszI7u7GhXgrN1KO9JkbTpIylTcqvs3tkHelpizrOeRAqo cA74yXKmQwY2B9IiXV5HMLHaGxadBp_61-Z_UVEXQVmIAhbFIG9utFQgajKbbtKx-pAKNU9R7f4kWKdAjSruClgCmSxC07il7KQ8QBQN68bH41M2MjN HoZAMP4VBbvbRf1jvpaPgnI3od9B0V8w=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

But more or less, that's basically it for the ITBs!

I'm going to split my updates into posts as I've been really bad about updating this build thread - the car has gotten a ton of progress and I haven't posted about it LOL

[jdm65]

Ok here's the next project LOL

Here is my custom floor mounted Tilton pedalbox setup!

I chose this for a multitude of reasons but one of the reasons was that I've always wanted a car with floor mounted pedals, and I am still missing my Wilwood pedal box from my POL haha

First I just loosely mocked up the box in the drivers side footwell where I wanted it and clamped it down with a 2x4 underneath it.

I'm fairly tall and I also have long legs, so this actually gives me a little bit extra legroom, and also frees up the space behind the dash for a future, completely hidden EPAS setup!

I chose the standard Tilton 600-series floor mounted pedalbox over the underfoot one due to cost and simplicity, but if I were to do it again, I'd probably go underfoot as the clearance between my header and brake lines is probably gonna be tight enough to warrant a very serious heat shield.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8AOc-wfSo8Hbd7hqyGzyTJ3V8nKLIPO5CUyrUFQp420rl8Hu3tZAGl3 Vo1MQ5ztVRGRXn4g9rRqWLcTtiSNVsPo00AfYqd3_KUp1MEXct slnxj24bYWelL8JFI0rtYVOnCr2LxZLN9ffKk9O9MEpwOevQ=w 1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

Once I had it perfect, I went to go design a brace to go under the pedalbox to be welded to the floor of the chassis. Since the floor pan is the lowest part of my car, I don't want the pedalbox to be bolted in as I might just scrape the bolts off, so I want to keep the floor of the car completely flat.

I designed this as a sheet metal part, so if needed I can go back and make it thicker, but after welding it to the chassis, it's not going anywhere so I'm probably done with it haha.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8Dsq6gKu_KRr1xYak4MBt7Dh_na0-VzndlkDxVOJ49yuydcDX7yc6fhN8tPsBcmBNZVhAYWfRceDBsc VdWbVL6CJdiU0yBWib78D29X7LMSwC_0ThK2dxiSfBlTQJEilw Fwd2gdIAjfSwbO7kOoC_JD4g=w2177-h1611-s-no?authuser=0

A few days later and Sendcutsend sends me this:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8D7USiE9O755P5gBpOW2G8qw-3FWi5Hg9HX8VM69CM_vHjxMJAVPEX7JKi1J6U0LC4oa5HoucRQ 84VUDkbhzD_yIi3jRzJkieo4isoquthCckgCoyujcAj1AnJID5 V1T_TrdPGaJatgihud6EWePq1LDg=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

And here it is welded in with the pedalbox mounted properly. The back bolts on the box go into that bit of chassis at the back of the pedalbox, and the front (closer to you) are secured using two nuts that are spot welded to the pedalbox mount.

I'm also going to make an adjustable heelplate later, but with the shoes I usually wear and my big feet it's pretty much perfect so I'll just leave it for now. The holes below the pedals are for mounting stuff in the future and that bend is there to give the bracket rigidity.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/44r8hlY6j9cpLnyMJQRPKu4E5yL9pusDxGp7sos9vrIFFkkxAC qOC8ft-NL3tFR6vz9fayFK8F8WDQNWPbRpulc3MPqnc-Xsn8mWf-BynuqMC6AuCNBV-dsgitHtwS8d-pzxP3ZzwKy1qvQEPFyc-wCYEUrfEdrpunDO5pD1OHYNKBkLyR8vYNjpEKQAL9nxJCkgxxo oV6_Mq9NkA0XCnrLOlikv7AC9wpcKuRClTQTKnVoNNjuOE0ScA 890Iz6Zt4t_ZjRRoJjRmk36NTn8ayPywXFd-Vvr7q-Et2IP3wG5FXcqJ9J2oNsfbDJfP3dVVVitceCLYc8v3CsqawbXL WLNckOjF_L0vpJPWn3Sj7RPqIORfumCJKYVl_2P8ahQQnKMx8x RfynBiowOH0G_Z7kw_h8S7b8vnveu0PfVH5-_jysF3vRE3EleoYh0c934jTpRYcuwfGPMIVGwDcJfb6C8KR7Pt M76-K5vUMojoA7FcF9iLA4STigkU8PURWlT4ebnPxH8ns_N0CU7boK xWISjQit3OqgIQGQmbUnJF8IjRhi_OsTuqAEzGbp1xorGNwTkO BtNCAcnFboarUe86xUPTOP59vdH7RSQl5s4BL_dfc7Ur7gOVAt DFRUJfbA8NdMa2sR1RZWgIs9NVI9boT0LoxOpvrdYrl3obRlqR SA4PXzSdOnVDZaCgeyubCCpcqtZIiMzvAuCzSzofR2Dtt8IWHq rVCd6yDEk_BrOmCECNCYaKwXb5wFauT2yaHgxeWZwdijsEagjQ oCQBzaKzS-Zn8L4D2oHQN6hay7OIE19FBc-nqfbVwX9hVBGfpkvGxlV1mMfcuX1xfYIIQk0XnAF9OePDYxieB n8ZwX8Xlels8NGA8Nhl717XHIYDxZTYTeOKpuBSHmnvkuHNAmk MRzhtdjpCv12AzYC2LRPhKhayH6-Dg=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0p

I also ran and secured all of my brake lines. This loop is just to make it easier for me to get the nut in

I'm contemplating being super extra and also making a hardline for the clutch, but I honestly cbf so I'll just leave it for now haha

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BOKyolbE9ASojo_Nvh31tZGyQ15EOZO9CXrULHZ9iL0P qe6UZE25FqsPXw80rvb7W-wfCkmDusfvG9nx8ySMQkvVaz65iQyrn5WNXdBs9SJ95ys9_4uR TVJpJHbwRKLX-4D9U_mYSY3dfvZsiXOUV71Q=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

That's basically it for the pedalbox for now - I'm still going to have to cut the aluminum panel since the master cylinders mount sandwiched to the panel now, and I'm definitely going to have to make a very serious heatshield. I did check the header clearance and everything clears with a couple inches of space, but if need be I'll modify the headers to clear. I won't need that side header next year anyways ��

[jdm65]

Here's a dog photo just before we get into the next part of this update

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CBpFDKDhpHXl7qyOCVRB5dRPjp2FqCUnX4Ql7vbvsTLu ucODjfdMOjG3kNZrBsYeXjEQs1OStCAK3rG51r8qa0guqt27sz iFkAWBVppGeHWj2NABLs9lfiBiyJRhSGXFMeo361qjszFRB576 1UcjBZeA=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

Anyways brakes!! The car does need to stop so I do need to do this hahaha

For brakes, like I said at this point years ago, I wanted to use Cadillac ATS brembos. I know a couple other builders have used this now but I figured I might as well document my experience. My adapter kit is from S&S engineering and consists of 4 offset mounting nuts that have to be pressed in, and two thin spacers to space the rotor out to match the caliper.

To do this swap you need to first knock out the pressed in mounting nuts in the calipers as sent. I'm sure there is an elegant way but I chose to stick it in my vise, thread a bolt in, and whack it really hard with a hammer. I didn't use enough microfibers when clamping the caliper down so I unfortunately scratched the finish quite a bit, but that's no big deal as I'm planning to paint these calipers anyways!

Here's the nuts knocked out of the caliper, and the new nuts installed! I used a cheap Harbor Freight (Princess Auto, my Canadian homies!!) hydraulic press to press the new nuts in!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DV6QbItM4lEbrYTcIZMEof857X_0K-HnUFbb_mOzUEr0HyztcRHOpC6MR-k6xpjCJMi7uSVlXauJe58hmQLQgBNU8Fo01p8kFLI6SdUPR6If jXDzMpEqsZo_0hwBTCTnMfMBabDVvu5F62Pb6YmKTBwA=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CAyW10v8txDPAglEQsJLDB2RoRO29c6zpjGtCvIGo1KV U6C0t2ynwXlK28baUJ65_8HOiMFCzfmM0h42DdTdfnFLLnXhwF OtTYnsTsq8l4NVrAD9l-s_Qaghk09iJGfQf4sF3vmaSxXiKtNwImRhnnRQ=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

Pretty sick!!! Basically the bolt spacing on the SN95 spindle is just a little wider than the ATS so all these nuts do is offset the bolt holes in the caliper. That's it. The spacer is just to space the rotor out.

I can't remember which rotor, but I'm pretty sure this is a SN95 Cobra rotor. 13" or something? Also, since I wasn't sure if this setup would fit the Factory Five spindles, I bought the absolute cheapest rotor in the case they did not. They fit, so I'll be buying slotted an drilled ones!

Looks sick!!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8AU9bfRB88UFVcB5cGLIjCfGmNkUtlcBMatHCcJ3zTcV_ 3SzlwE7gvt0k0glzgpDyuRkmw563_WuoiZBq-WSeUy_UtIoQHYRfpMfIBO6LvGe16Okb3gtKiYkdncHyKwvm6Ov b0rjM0HaJHD2BozhuvYeQ=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

Oh also, here's that spacer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8C8ALb9o6Ti8zHUxie8huvqjo1k4URPrsqZXAzZ74ZMxm YfAu6FvtlWwGJ2ffDVEva6URxhWrJKXoiBaEVs0BZXugzV6rKP GcaU6OmwdgVgl7Ogi7g2nhHkgourczSWTJVS4GVvbAyoK1_JpL 4uGklXBg=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

I also drilled out my steering arms for my bumpsteer kit. There's kits out there that have the correct balljoint taper, but mine requires you to just drill the taper out to straight so I just did that and finished the setup.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DrQm2Q797mShvjiV5tWTxGEpKVdx2nnKSv5I6P5cb0-YrcyXwSOl_gR0CIzsV393INHYa0vvHVBsTp8nvH7nBNGhIOLn0 NrJIl9P5N1AYGsUPrlDd6zN4Irws4GONUT0fwCIfnPmlB-LfEI1kGx2l3Xw=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

Whew! That was a good bit of work! Really happy with the results though.

[jdm65]

Headers are in and MAN... that is CLOSE

I will have to build a very good heat shield...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaW0tFTLf6IEd5MfKZiWPSRc8fUzAfBpVghStv4U7Z4f2h dMl0o1gBN31Sfw4aAWZhih1mpiSzwUg4ufepJIVnOZ8-YvOD_YwxSfZqMfMJxPa3x5cBRqS9zEz7duB0b9hhA1cfB9-F1-9iP8Rl7aA0xSaQ=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUaQtA1YkdHA2ZffJm3UmmddP2nSoiCsVjK264OtuX0jQ 3vLmtwo_xzeOOMI51GgKGtVsl2B9iQ6kEtlZH5Q6UXeRbljYVe SDzQogRrUYpgWJJOWrDZ4yiKKpO5W4PwRKdEXADM3zorw6Yj-GeT1StYow=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

I can slip a hand in, so I'll make a heat shield, worst case scenario I'll probably have to modify that header

Also, I was finding it really hard to mount my Bride seats to the flat steel floor provided on the chassis by Factory Five, so I boxed the whole floor in instead

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUhON3pbL5goDHiXFcrI6p9EojRld_1LEnaM-A0-ItCGRk8qDhPEZJC0kS7aEmFDDmuecOy7Mwkh-wB6pKxSTXFrIXxUTBvpQaj02j82mw9z4_hm27TpaRIX_p7htCE Mvm3RQTrc5o69StclHqDs-YgOw=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaU-kKxCpSVuedzPIWmkhxfQQGruduee1XBK7zV2ycqq3_p_rmp16_ vyXD9rExwkQhkVlRQ0Qparhd2NBPiCJSwb5P_IIHTob-RmFGsNqfBf9FN_W3hsLy5Tb3bPGrQpqMrHELbpZ56UDC2qgjii fYdOAg=w1460-h1946-s-no?authuser=0

[jdm65]

Tiny updates

Rad is on, and I also redesigned part of my ITB setup to be 3D printed

This used to be a 12mm heim joint but now it's a 3D printed adjustable rod holder that uses a really easy to get needle bearing

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUCCWUp2NXkYlZEnk7TtkQkssbr6lM4rwxgxuCr_bZXOs vxTOVYcyk2EFBQiHjgWwlYeoqY83MFra-RZ7IrUPAZNl5UaPkQDxERKs8joY0HDsooZrw14sQ5Z_YUw_rGI vxNcgHYwEZvwLcyKmcMJw3McA=w2160-h1231-s-no?authuser=0

It replaces this, which I used originally to hold the center throttle shaft

https://cdn3.volusion.com/jvvsn.zmqva/v/vspfiles/photos/Kit14030-2.jpg?v-cache=1666167998

I also mocked up all the aluminum paneling for the radiator and mounted the rad using a 6mm rivnut instead of the specified self-tapper

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVW-NTyx2B6wQUCbFW53VDH-GMMV-kibZs-B3TpKz4ipZDQqqTmi9KY_VpBEgTsqBNVlwI7eGHsbakleIHG6a 807Ijqv1Ezwuq1HtwNwK1WNk4eUd60WOwpaUJm4FgQ7jd_2vxB 7tbdOKu2ODY_9gBKWA=w1395-h1860-s-no?authuser=0

Seems to be normal that the rad is shifted over to the drivers side, but I actually might be able to center it since I'll be cutting the barb fittings off for -16AN fittings instead, so I can straighten out the inlet and outlet pipes. More on that soon :)

[jdm65]

Oh and, I figured I might as well share some 3D rendered eyecandy of the ITB setup. The prototype one on the car is gonna be pretty ugly with a lot of 3D printed pieces and haphazard hardware, but I'll replace everything once I get it running right with nice billet pieces and polished rods and whatnot :)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaXVMr9exf-3fBJsn8NaKcX1nbYXygKAYGOQweS7EMvHhg12DjhbgaddAi_Np guOskJ4NfQlpGtdcWIJkz5a0ktZtMXVndZ9zkeURg4c3Y7Q7OH rhONYx8rblP-ssGCzSEewIyRfU2T__jZQiL8nUoM4PQ=w1296-h1296-s-no?authuser=0

The linkage setup looks so good

It looks a little confusing but basically how it works is that the two banks have to rotate their throttle shafts mirrored to each other. Meaning from the front of the engine, one will turn counter clockwise and the other will turn clockwise. The throttle shafts connecting the outer rods to the center one are different bank to bank, one bank's throttle shaft rotation is matched to the other, and the other bank is mirrored, so when the bank's throttle shaft rotates one way, the center shaft rotates the other. Basically once everything's all adjusted (I ran into some issues getting the throttles to open exactly the same but sorted it out) rotating the center shaft will rotate both outer shafts equally.

BMW saved the effort and just used two throttle actuators, one for each bank, lol. Shoulda done that. I'm not the first to use a setup like this but it's also uncommon enough that I can't just copy someone's homework and base the design on someone else's so unfortunately this is entirely my own (completely untested) design lmao

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVLgutTvAoNJCnj6TJNpWnT2Etfy1up17LKgko4UIiVDe Ybw19X-nM4kov-yjYK9jb_xjygcehjposKZcpCp0Ve5rNBCJTEqdzCbi3EabqRr6 EgJsUqVMd9KUGrUBM1iV9cp3v3ahXXYA27AsP0v3Bk9w=w1296-h1296-s-no?authuser=0

Also here's an incomplete idea of what I kinda want with this setup

I'm gonna have the airbox seal to the hood of the car with some thick foam or weatherstripping and have twin intakes that go to the airbox. That way everything is nice and filtered (and cold!) as it enters the engine, but when you open the hood you can still see the stacks. I have this as an aluminum airbox right now (designed to be made out of bent sheet aluminum) but I think I'm gonna make a carbon one instead using a 3D printed form, seems a little easier

I also designed some really simple couplers that can go into the airbox so I can use pretty much any 4" pipe. Not sure on filters yet, maybe I'll throw in some more JDM and do some HKS mushroom filters? hahahah

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWtgiCL85QERAiRR7tayAssN-JNkU1T1n_nv_0KdgQYf91m0lyeUIldGpN_Xcf6QeslS8HtNqOF 81OlLGCFtsi14GnNDo3fgkBKxK8uyLQz3z_elrir_JPSbjAnPT 0Ezr8skc6DOzsipqYgmHUvdsEF-w=w1860-h1860-s-no?authuser=0

Anyways to anyone that's reading this and wants to do ITBs - just buy the innov8 setup, this wasn't worth it to save a few grand LOL