Body filler questions?

[D Stand]

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Looking for advise from the experts here. I am starting with fitting panels and grinding down parting lines. I have been digging out what is I think uncured gel coat and have found some air pockets that I have partially ground down. I have purchased HSRF and have been reading that I should purchase Rage gold. Are any of these big enough to need to use HSRF versus Rage gold? On some of the holes that are along the parting lines should I be feathering these out before applying filler? Any other advise appreciated too!

Thanks Dale

[GoDadGo]

Dale,

I'm a Bodywork Novice, but I think that's an excellent choice for filling deep voids since it is a Vynilester base material.
Also, please know that I tried to do the bodywork myself but called in my pal Sammy since he's been doing that kind of work for over 30 years.
I learned a lot while working with Sammy and we used a ton of tips and pointers that Jeff Kleiner gave us.
Evercoat Fibertech is a good product too and is often used to do repairs on Corvettes.

Hopefully, these videos help:

Parting Line Removal:
https://youtu.be/_3sLamdkIFg

Parting Line Smoothing:
https://youtu.be/meBYeI96_A8

Bodywork Begins:
https://youtu.be/6QXWP5H8mT0

Bodywork Gets Serious:
https://youtu.be/6UK6K2jcwTU

Bodywork Is Nearly Done:
https://youtu.be/po1Bb2_XDDk

Body Is Removed & Back Side Coated:
https://youtu.be/FVMCA4_UZHU

Reassembly Starts:
https://youtu.be/ELFJDOVKb4g

Reassembly Continues:
https://youtu.be/A0Jb1tjjtPU

Graduation Video Minus Wipers:
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

Finally, what you are likely digging out is modeling clay they use to fill seams where the molds are joined!

Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

It's not gelcoat but like Steve said it's the clay that they use to fill gaps in the molds so that the gelcoat doesn't run through (it's just a cruel joke that the body manufacturer uses red clay making it more difficult to find!) It isn't uncommon, especially if you get a body out of a set of molds that have seen a lot of use and are near the end of their life cycle. Remember the mold is a negative of the body so anything that is convex on the mold will be concave on the body. If the clay isn't smoothed to flush in the mold the gelcoat runs around it rather than filling over it causing what you're seeing. That said, it has to come out before proceeding.

Looks like you have what I often call a "blowout" along what appears to be the hood or trunk opening flange. This happens when the glass mat and resin aren't pushed tight into the mold and it leaves an air void between the gelcoat and 'glass and most often show up on outside corners of the body flanges (which are inside corners of the mold). Make sure you open it up all the way to solid 'glass before you start building it back up with HSRF and then Rage Gold. These things can be sort of like the proverbial "tip of the iceberg" and what at first looks like a tiny pinhole may become a crater.

Voids along the parting line like the one you show in the photo at that 3 way intersection need to be cleaned up (I use a round or oval cutting bit in a die grinder) and then filled to just below flush with HSRF. You'll then shape over it with Rage.

The gaps like you show along the edge of the hood, doors and trunk lid occur between the inner and outer skins and also need to be filled (Rage is OK unless they are really wide) but wait until the panels have been brought to their final size because you'll likely expose more when the edges are sanded to fit.

Good luck!

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

For The Record, I Hated Every Part Of The Bodywork Process Except The Finished Product!

[Fbird]

I will be doing this soon when weather becomes hospitable in Wisconsin again. Great organized links. Thank you Go dad.

[John Nizman]

Our Restoration Company uses 2 different products depending on application.

We prefer to use 3M Platinum Plus Filler (product part #01131) for the seams after you have carefully removed the wax residue.

For areas that have deep sections or larger pinholes, we like to use Evercoat Vette Bond (product #870).

We have been restoring Classic C1 to C5 Corvettes and building FFR bodies for numerous years now and we are very happy with the results with the above mentioned products.

Hope this helps you!

John Nizman
Last Chance Auto Restore.com

[D Stand]

Thanks for all of the replies so far. I think I am going in the right direction. So I forgot to ask this question before but how far is too far in me doing this kind of work before a professional will not touch this car for paint? I have built everything on this car so far and saying that I did the body work and paint is appealing to me. But I hear so may people say don’t touch it and leave it to the professionals. I have never painted a car so is it the putting the filler down the point of no return...?

[GoDadGo]

Thanks for all of the replies so far. I think I am going in the right direction. So I forgot to ask this question before but how far is too far in me doing this kind of work before a professional will not touch this car for paint? I have built everything on this car so far and saying that I did the body work and paint is appealing to me. But I hear so may people say don’t touch it and leave it to the professionals. I have never painted a car so is it the putting the filler down the point of no return...?

Those questions are for the Bodyshop Owner that you intend to work with.
Most shops in my neck of the woods Will Not Touch A Car that someone started doing the bodywork on.
If I build another Factory Five, which may happen in a few years, then it will most likely go to Jeff Kleiner if he's still putting up with us.