9967 Build - Here We Go!

[Daddy O]

Hello!

So very excited to be here! After following build threads for a couple years and salivating over the F5 SEMA booth, I finally got to start on my bucket list project of building a Roadster. My son and I attended build school 9/2020 and placed our order not long after getting home. It's great to see a couple others on here from the same class starting theirs as well.

First, a huge thank you to all on here. This forum was a big driver in getting me into building one. I am humbled by the amount of knowledge and the willingness to share.

Second, I have turned a few wrenches in the past but nothing even close to the extent of this kit. I appreciate all of your patience and understanding with my impending questions. I know I will be posting a lot of "does this look right" type questions.

I will add details about the build to my signature line but in general I like the vintage look with 15"s, single hoop, comp dash, etc.

Already have the drop trunk kit, FF thick firewall, Moog tie rod ends, replacement boots. Planning on forward battery and many more Breeze goodies.

SEMA 2019
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Body Buck and Chassis Dolly Done
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Inventory is complete. Notable missing items are spindles, seats, front LCAs

Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like the UCA came with the parts oriented properly?
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Thanks everybody, really looking forward to this journey!

[Daddy O]

Already have a question. I am putting the brackets on my rebuilt rear end (3 Link) and have a sizable gap between the F5 bracket and the OEM one on the axle. I was thinking of adding a washer or two to fill the void. Any issues with this?

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[JohnP]

Congratulations on your new build… I’ll be following your build Lauren along with you

John P

[Straversi]

Congratulations and welcome. Funny how sitting in one at SEMA will loosen up the check book. Can’t wait to follow along.
-Steve

[txboiler]

Already have a question. I am putting the brackets on my rebuilt rear end (3 Link) and have a sizable gap between the F5 bracket and the OEM one on the axle. I was thinking of adding a washer or two to fill the void. Any issues with this?

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I checked mine and the gap is tapered with it touching on the outboard side of both. Since yours is a consistent gap I would put a washer in there. That being said if you left it alone it would probably not be an issue....I doubt the gaps closes when you torque it.

[Daddy O]

In anticipation of eventually building a Roadster, my son and I purchased a 1998 Mustang rear end off Offer Up in December 2019 for $160 . We then proceeded to disassemble it, grind off the quad shock brackets and get it powder coated. Yama Bro's thread was a big inspiration here, thanks Yama Bro! After attending Build School, we decided we were going to push forward and get it completed. I had a local shop do the diff install. It is now ready to go with all new components (31 spline fox length axles, Trac Loc/3.55 gears, new bearings/seals). we also went with the VPM brace since I elected not to get the bracket welded due to concerns over warping the axle. The F5 Banana Bracket did not align with the factory hole on the Pumpkin Flange so I had a local shop cut the tube and reweld at the correct angle. Also the 1/2" ID tube F5 uses as a bushing was a little weird since the bolt supplied is 3/8". We had that changed to 3/8" id when the welding was being done. I elected to change out the supplied distorted thread lock nuts for new distorted nuts from McMaster, I was having some problems with a couple of them. I think they were made too distorted, they were going on super tough and I felt I would snap the bolt. I am using torque stripe paint to mark my bolts/nuts.

The diff girdle cover got Sharkhide on it as well as all the bolt heads. I also put Sharkhide on the backs of the axle hubs and anything else I did not want to oxidize or rust. I did the recommended task of adding a bead of black rtv on the bearing load bolts before running them down and torqueing them, not sure what thread that came from but thank you.

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Friendly Tip - Be careful of the oil passageway inside (green box) it is great for swallowing Axle C Clips. Learned this the hard way after the diff had already been installed. Could not get it out with a magnet stick, shaking, etc. Had to have the diff removed to gain access.

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Please let me know if anybody spies anything needing attention. Thanks!

[Daddy O]

Got the body pulled with the help of my Wife, Son and his girlfriend. Definitely recommend 4 people for this like others have mentioned. Hoisted the buck up and got the body up into its "window seat". Wonder what the neighbors think?

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Marked up the aluminum with panel number and info on what goes over/under and took loads of pics. Got the aluminum off and stored.

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Nice to be done with inventory and disassembly. Time to move forward, thinking we will install the rear end first then do the F panels. I have been experimenting with how to treat the panels and kinda like the look of jitterbug sanded with 180 grit and then a coating of Sharkhide.

[Daddy O]

Hi All,

I had posted above about the gap between the axle bracket and the supplied F5 bracket. I decided to add a couple Grade 8 washers. Thanks TX for your input. I think this will be OK but please speak up if somebody objects.

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[Jeff Kleiner]

Hi All,

I had posted above about the gap between the axle bracket and the supplied F5 bracket. I decided to add a couple Grade 8 washers. Thanks TX for your input. I think this will be OK but please speak up if somebody objects.

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Sorry, I didn't see your earlier post regarding this but yes that will be fine. In fact Factory Five used to provide a spacer with the hardware for exactly that purpose and I believe it was mentioned in the instructions. I haven't built a 3 link car for 2-3 years so I am not sure if they still do; perhaps you overlooked it but in any case you're good to go!

Jeff

[Daddy O]

Thanks Jeff, you input is very much appreciated!

[JB in NOVA]

Looking good, Daddy O! I like your elevated body storage solution. I kinda wish I had done that. Instead, I let the body take up an entire bay of my garage for 10 months. Just this weekend I finally put it on the chassis and cleared the way for my daily driver to return to the garage. Not a moment too soon with more snow on the way this week!

[Daddy O]

Hi JB,

It was either suspend or build the lifted buck on stilts, only have 2 bays and promised the wife she would be still able to park inside. I have been following your build and greatly appreciate your thread!

[Daddy O]

Got the rear end installed last weekend. No major issues. We put the control arms on the rear end first then wheeled into position using a Harbor Freight motorcycle jack I got a deal on Offer Up. In build school they mentioned cutting channels to allow the grease to flow out on the bushing surface. I used a razor saw to cut an initial path to keep the hack saw blade from wandering. Afterwards pumped some Royal Purple grease in to check the zerk and put in just enough until the grease started to come out the end. Please let me know if anybody sees any errors in my work.
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[Daddy O]

Rear brakes are installed now too. I was a little puzzled with the anti rattle clips. I did see the idea of using zip ties to hold them in place but elected to go another route. I squeezed the clips in the vice a bit to reduce the amount of spring tension. Next I cut a diagonal in the clip so it would fit better. the clips are a bit too wide for the space and ride up on the radius in the caliper recess. Cutting the angle just on one side helps the clips center better and sit flat. They still give a bit of pressure on the pads. Doing this allowed me to mount and torque the caliper bracket and then put the pads on followed by the caliper. I sprayed some Duplicolor caliper paint on the rotor hubs to ward of rust.
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[Daddy O]

A bit of progress to update since my last post. UCAs tubes and threaded rods cut per previously posted methods, assembled the stock ball joints after wire wheeling and blue loctited in place, added witness marks. Torqueing the rear bolt attaching the UCA to the frame was interesting, wedged a large flat blade screwdriver in there to keep it from turning. F panels powdercoated satin black on one side, the inboard sides got jitterbug sanded with 320 then grey scotchbright marks added using a guide block and making scotchbrite sanding block using some carpet tape to hold the scotch to the wood, finished up with 2 coats of Sharkhide, best to wait at least 24 hrs before adding second coat. Pedal box brackets powdercoated and all assembled and installed, no major issues. FF metals thick firewall (nice piece!) drilled and cleco'd. PS footbox drilled and cleco'd. Unfortunately no POL items have arrived yet. Still waiting on front LCAs, power rack, spindles just like many others. Oh, well will keep on working the sheetmetal. Have the RT drop trunk mod in hand to install too so plenty to stay busy with while waiting on POL. Please let me know if anybody sees anything I should be concerned about.

So grateful for all the fantastic build threads and knowledge shared on here, has saved me from stupid mistakes many times already!

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