Factory Five GTM Supercar, fastthings video build log

[fastthings]

Hi everyone,
I'm Gene. I have started a video build log. I am a couple weeks into it, here we go.

http://youtu.be/qQLWQK9jBYk

http://youtu.be/50bmdsrIfBA

Let me know if I am missing something, please.
Thanks

[fastthings]

And here is part 3.

http://youtu.be/_nlSySq84YM

[VD2021]

Gene,
This is what I'll be using on my hatch. I'll use it for mock up and reinstall for my final seal.


McMaster Carr. 1120A311 16 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 3/16" Edge, 3/8" Bulb Width .

[fastthings]

Gene,
This is what I'll be using on my hatch. I'll use it for mock up and reinstall for my final seal.


McMaster Carr. 1120A311 16 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 3/16" Edge, 3/8" Bulb Width .

Ya, I could not find in the manual what seal they want us to use. Regardless, that one fits the bill. I'll go with that also. If I find that I robbed a part that I may need later I will get more.

[LeRoy]

Just checked out your update...Thanks!

Later....

[fastthings]

Just checked out your update...Thanks!

Later....

Yep, here is #4, ruff fit the hood.

http://youtu.be/Tx18C0T_BQI

[VD2021]

Gene,
Another nice video. Just wanted to point out a few items I am seeing right now with my hood. I am still working it to a nice happy median. You may have addressed these, but just incase.

1. There needs to be enough space for the wiper to be mounted and operate. Unless you're not running one.
2. The rise of the upper radiator hose elbow needs clearance as to not have the hood causing any unnecessary stress. Just means the front needs to be adjusted higher.

[fastthings]

Gene,
Another nice video. Just wanted to point out a few items I am seeing right now with my hood. I am still working it to a nice happy median. You may have addressed these, but just incase.

1. There needs to be enough space for the wiper to be mounted and operate. Unless you're not running one.
2. The rise of the upper radiator hose elbow needs clearance as to not have the hood causing any unnecessary stress. Just means the front needs to be adjusted higher.


Oh. nice tips, thank you.

I am doing the door now, and want to apply power to the window motor. Shouldn't I be able to put power to the motor, one way or anather to make it go up and down?

[VD2021]

Oh. nice tips, thank you.

I am doing the door now, and want to apply power to the window motor. Shouldn't I be able to put power to the motor, one way or anather to make it go up and down?

If you're asking. 12v DC applied to the terminals and just reverse it for the opposite direction. If you have a 12v battery pack from a battery powered tool its very convenient. A 9.6v hobby battery pack will work too.

I sent you a PM.

[fastthings]

Mornig guy's. I got passenger door news.

http://youtu.be/xjqXvareM5A

[fastthings]

Holly crap, fitting the door glass is tough. I feel bad for guys paying someone to do this stuff, lots of back and forth stuff. It will be interesting to see haw quik the other door goes, after doing one for the first time.

http://youtu.be/yxwccUtGzX4

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/M4BmIjb6wnk

Working window. Glad to get that far, still a ton af work to do on the door. I'm looking for new seals for the door and window, same design but thicker, any ideas?

[Presto51]

http://youtu.be/M4BmIjb6wnk

Working window. Glad to get that far, still a ton af work to do on the door. I'm looking for new seals for the door and window, same design but thicker, any ideas?

Get a bottle of Jack :eek:

[VD2021]

My Nemesis............

[fastthings]

My Nemesis............

While doing a search for seals on the forum, I noticed that I took on the tough side first, huh. I read lots of threads dealing with the window, lots of frustrations. I was able to get it done, as intended by FFR.

Anyway, I did not find a good source of seals to choose from, anyone have ideas, without the bottle of Jack, I like a blended whiskey.

[VD2021]

While doing a search for seals on the forum, I noticed that I took on the tough side first, huh. I read lots of threads dealing with the window, lots of frustrations. I was able to get it done, as intended by FFR.

Anyway, I did not find a good source of seals to choose from, anyone have ideas, without the bottle of Jack, I like a blended whiskey.

McMaster has a huge selection of seals. Though I have not seen any with felt or flock.

Did you do the track on the aft vertical? I like the potential of more stability and better sealing with the glass in the closed position. However it will not affect the glass until it’s almost in the fully closed position. I am planning to use the SPW UC-1 and CRL 10G96 if I add the track. Did you find a salvage alternative in your search?

[Presto51]

While doing a search for seals on the forum, I noticed that I took on the tough side first, huh. I read lots of threads dealing with the window, lots of frustrations. I was able to get it done, as intended by FFR.

Anyway, I did not find a good source of seals to choose from, anyone have ideas, without the bottle of Jack, I like a blended whiskey.

Don't think you're gettting off easy by doing the right side first....Just wait till you get to the left side door :D

Ok so the bottle of Jack is not for you, have you look at the C-5 door and window seals??? The GTM has it's DNA just wondering if the Vette stuff could be modified to work.

[RustySprocket]

Good Stuff Gene....

When you get this done I'll supply a bottle of Mason County drip:p or Crown.

[fastthings]

Don't think you're gettting off easy by doing the right side first....Just wait till you get to the left side door :D

Ok so the bottle of Jack is not for you, have you look at the C-5 door and window seals??? The GTM has it's DNA just wondering if the Vette stuff could be modified to work.

Is it the driver side that gives everyone troubles?

[VD2021]

Is it the driver side that gives everyone troubles?

Both require hours and hours of work. The Driver's side may take you a few less, but chances are you will not say it was easier. The doors are different. Driver's is thicker and the frames are not the same.........

[RF RIDER]

My question would be is why is the doors so time consuming. Would be nice if someone from FFR would chime in and give a reason why there are so many modifications to get the windows/latches and most importantly the seals to work. I'm fortunate to have a dad that is creative with fiberglass and will help rework these doors. Maybe FFr should have made their own window lift mechanism instead of using the corvettes. Did they not have these difficulties when assembling/test fitting before production began?
I am very thankful for the crew here on the forum helping out with video's like this and advice to what to do and what not to do. This will definitely help when my time arrives to tackle these doors.

[VD2021]

My question would be is why is the doors so time consuming. Would be nice if someone from FFR would chime in and give a reason why there are so many modifications to get the windows/latches and most importantly the seals to work. I'm fortunate to have a dad that is creative with fiberglass and will help rework these doors. Maybe FFr should have made their own window lift mechanism instead of using the corvettes. Did they not have these difficulties when assembling/test fitting before production began?
I am very thankful for the crew here on the forum helping out with video's like this and advice to what to do and what not to do. This will definitely help when my time arrives to tackle these doors.

Your time is consumed solving and fixing issues. It takes hours initially just to get the door frame initially fitted to the body. As you progress through the steps you continually run into issues that you have to address. Some require you to go through most of the initial steps again. Ultimately I believe the majority of the time is spent trying to get a decent seal if you stay frame-less or redoing the donor tracks and creating a full frame if you go that route.

[fastthings]

Well, it's no joke. I'm still not done with that door. I now am going to use partial frame up the post on the door.
Still have to work out a seal for the door. I'll get it, and it will be good.

RF RIDER, I think they havn't done it because it's not easy.
Ya know, I have no complaints to FFR. The kit is what it is. Sure ya got to work at it, but the reward must be immense. For me the first time I saw one I was hooked. If you want one, put your head down, and plow threw it, and smile. That's what I'm doing. And yes, I have been reading the other for a year or so, and this this forum since it's start, it makes it nice for all, all our cars end up being better than not.

None of us are as smart as all of us, right.

[fastthings]

Well I got the door sitting in much better form. Still need to take it back apart and paint the internals. Then all I have left is to get it to seal without wanting to bind the door while it shuts.

http://youtu.be/Y9_3FkCdzpY

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/XKKWhL4wNXE

I got the passenger door 80% done, now time to do it again on the other side. Looking forward to it only taking half the time, now that I know what I'm after.

[fastthings]

Well after a little distraction called life I have the drivers door done now. Moveing on to the hood.

http://youtu.be/5BhFUL_72jM

[fastthings]

Video 11, bodywork on the hood.

http://youtu.be/_fYkOqT0efk

[Presto51]

Gene very nice work on the hood.

Coffee came out my nose when I laugh at the PIA comment at the end though, now I have to change my shirt :)

[fastthings]

Gene very nice work on the hood.

Coffee came out my nose when I laugh at the PIA comment at the end though, now I have to change my shirt :)

That's funny.

[Kempo]

I really like seeing this videos. They are full of useful information. Thanks for sharing all those years of knowledge with us in those very detailed videos.

H

[fastthings]

I really like seeing this videos. They are full of useful information. Thanks for sharing all those years of knowledge with us in those very detailed videos.

H

Thanks,

Hey Kempo, I have the ISIS touch also, have not even got it out of the box yet. I've been thinking of what to have on a regular switch, or just run from the touch. What are you doing?

[LCD Gauges]

Same as Kempo:

Thank you for posting these detailed videos of your progress and sharing your techniques. I'm glad you reached the door stage before I did, and that I can steal some tips from you!

These windows are giving me nightmares just reading about the difficulties. I've often thought about alternatives , like some sort of fixed window that can be removed like a
t-top and stored in the car when not needed...

ummm, alright...it's not the greatest Idea, but it would probably be easier than spending two weeks on one door, right? :D

[Kempo]

Thanks,

Hey Kempo, I have the ISIS touch also, have not even got it out of the box yet. I've been thinking of what to have on a regular switch, or just run from the touch. What are you doing?

I will not be using a regular switch with a key. The inTouch requires that you splice the yellow wire (IIRC) on its harness to add a switch to turn off the screen. My plan is to hide that switch somewhere in the car. That hidden switch and the 6 digit code in the system should be safe enough for a car I won't be leaving parked just anywhere.

[lrt1941]

Great videos: When done you should make a cd of all of them and sell the cd. I bet a lot of new GTM buyers wood buy it. Alot of old ones all so. I know I would. I wish I had your tallent.
Leonard

[fastthings]

Great videos: When done you should make a cd of all of them and sell the cd. I bet a lot of new GTM buyers wood buy it. Alot of old ones all so. I know I would. I wish I had your tallent.
Leonard

Wow,thanks. It's all on youtube, for free. I guess it would be nice on cd. That's why i put it on youtube though is becaue I don't have to store it forever, and youtube will.

[VD2021]

Gene,
Outstanding. This is the most informing video log yet. You are talented. What's next?

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/UwNcN6fVVWw

Hood pretty much ready for primer. Time to work on the hatch.

[fastthings]

part 13
http://youtu.be/pgtFMi9AjI4

[Kalstar]

"thats a good place for that" too funny.

Watched to whole thing, you are a craftsman!

Noticed a few things slightly off, the LS2 first came in the 05 Vette and Shane lives in Iowa.

Please keep the videos coming, very informative.

[fastthings]

Ya I couldn't remember the year, now that you say that, I think it's out of a 06. It's been a year. And I guess I never knew where Shane was, another bad guess.

Thanks Kalstar

[scottns]

You're going to have one sweet ride...!

[fastthings]

part 14, roof scopp done.

http://youtu.be/VyZiYZ9jk_w

[fastthings]

Part 15, Iv'e got both sides done. Prety much ready for primer.

http://youtu.be/tOfGxy1Rwm8

[fastthings]

part 16

http://youtu.be/-NDizV_tzWg

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/Bsc6BJep8kU

getting closer

[Jayman174]

Love the vids... keep 'em coming. Would love to pick your brain sometime on the materials you used to do all your body work.

[fastthings]

Pick away. All I have used so far is 3M brand fiberglass resin, and I'm using a new bondo to me that I like, U-POL. Both the bondo and glaze sand real nice. The bondo pin holes real easy, but I found mixing it with a little glaze smooths it right out.

[Jayman174]

Thanks for the info. Is the 3M resin polyester or epoxy? Also what specific products did you use from U-POL.

Jayman

[fastthings]

The resin is poly, I buy it at Wall Mart, cheaper. The bondo is lightweight gold, and the glaze is liquid gold. I have also tried their primer, seems to be good.

Here is #18. I've got the tail lights started.
http://youtu.be/qtnprtLd1J0

[Jayman174]

Thanks for the info.

Jayman

[LCD Gauges]

After watching most of your video logs, something tells me your daily profession is not sewing. ;)

[Edgeman]

Keep the videos coming they have been very helpful.

[fastthings]

Really, it's hard to believe that I'm getting that old. Since 1998 doing body work is just a hobby, I have been cutting cars apart all my life. I now wear a shirt and tie to work,(hard to believe also). Now that I think about it, I have been constructing since third grade, building balsa wood planes, it's in my blood. In 7th grade I did sew a ski jacket, came out nice.

Anyway, I am haveing a blast building this GTM, love the kit. The videos are really for my family and friends, when I start building a car they don't know what I do, and they don't see me for a while.
And lets face it, it never hurts to have more than one set of eyes looking at it, to point out something going the wrong direction before it's to late.

I am so looking forward to the last vid of me doing a nice smokey burnout.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/bxXXBmuBSjs

More work on the back.

[fastthings]

Tail lights done.

http://youtu.be/4sn7MCjEf-s

[fastthings]

#21, diffuser

http://youtu.be/lkIXHBxU93s

[mmaragos]

Cool. Diffuser and the louvers look really good. How about an expanded metal / screen for the open area between the top of the diffuser and the body? Any attachment points could be hidden behind the screen. Might make a cleaner, more finished look?

The work you have done is awesome!

[kabacj]

I am so looking forward to the last vid of me doing a nice smokey burnout.

Ha me too! Nothing like tire smoke to celebrate a completed car.

Great videos.

[fastthings]

Thanks guys, I just picked up a 5/8 round stock of aluminum, I'll drill and tap the round stock for the connection from the diffuser to the body. I just don't like the brackets I made.

[posthaste]

Yup, been following since the first video:) I always grin when I log on here and see your thread at the top, knowing I'm about to get to see something new from you.
Those brackets, the idea was there, but you know, I get the feeling it was a lack of symmetry that bugged you about them.
Anyways, love the vids.
Thanks

[fastthings]

Yup, been following since the first video:) I always grin when I log on here and see your thread at the top, knowing I'm about to get to see something new from you.
Those brackets, the idea was there, but you know, I get the feeling it was a lack of symmetry that bugged you about them.
Anyways, love the vids.
Thanks

Well today I came home, just found out how much I owe in taxes. My job, commision sales, has been sucking lately. Just kinda depressed feeling. Thought I log on and pass a half hour, saw your reply. You just put a grin on my long face. THANKS!! I needed that.

[Fraser D]

Gene,
Looking at the standoffs that you made I agree that the symmetry is a little off, maybe little or no radius on the rear edge. I believe that part of the body on that axis is quite flat and square-ish looking with the curves only being across the diffuser axis. If you are looking for a 3 dimensional shape maybe a tear drop profile rather than round stock.
Keep the videos coming and don’t let the tax man get you down. ;-)

[VD2021]

Gene,

Again, another great video.

I also sent you a PM.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/6Djfe_pG-Ls
Part 22...difuser, hatch prop, bodywork, pretty much done

[Edgeman]

Very nice Gene, I sure like what you did to the hatch props. You just made some more work for me ( hope you don't mind me using your idea) but it sure makes them look OEM. Another great video!

[kabacj]

Gene awesome job with the lightening holes in the hatch props. Having executed a few projects like that recently where it's a great idea but massively time consuming, I can appreciate the effort involved.

When I was watching the video I was thinking uh oh. This is going to be tough, but you pulled it off perfectly. Nice modification. No fancy CNC machines needed! Just brute force. Awesome.

John

[fastthings]

Thanks guys, of course I don't mind Edgeman.

Kabacj, sometimes I wonder why I start stuff like that. That was an all day deal, and I killed my back leaning over fileing alll day. It's all fun, right?

Gene

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/fuiyaVdJc1I

doors and hood in final prime

[posthaste]

I am pretty sure most of the people on this forum are aware of the way building a car can bring a father and son together, but Gene, did you know your awesome videos and YOU building that car do the same?
It's true. As we work on ours, I find Dad and I talk quite often about what FastThings Gene has going on in his latest video:)

So thank you, not only for incredibly useful ideas and tips on the build, but also for some really good conversation topics, and more things in common.
I know it's kind of an odd post, but I think it's important to note.
You never know who's trolling the message board, maybe some other Dads looking for something cool to share with their kids, grown or otherwise.
Nice touch with the bed liner, looks real clean.
Chris
(igor to the owner of gtm#12)

[fastthings]

That's cool, Thanks man.

[Radkat]

Gene
First, thanks so much for all the videos, they are very helpful and you are doing an incredible job!:)
I may have missed the answers to these, but if you could tell me what
you used to fill in the GTM seams and whether or not you added any fiberglass cloth or mat,
I would appreciate it.
Also, can you tell me what product you used to fix the "Roof Scoop" to the body?
I watched your video, but I wasn't sure what it was.
I would really appreciate your expertise.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Radkat


http://youtu.be/fuiyaVdJc1I

doors and hood in final prime

[fastthings]

Hi, I used bondo in the seems. I ground them down first. Lots of voids in the seems and at the edges, corners of the body.
Then check out video #14, I used fiberglass to bond hte roof scoop.

No problem,
Gene

[riptide motorsport]

cool vids.......spotless garage in the first vid...not so much now!!!

[Radkat]

Thanks so much for the feedback and I will take a look at video #4.
Radkat



Hi, I used bondo in the seems. I ground them down first. Lots of voids in the seems and at the edges, corners of the body.
Then check out video #14, I used fiberglass to bond hte roof scoop.

No problem,
Gene

[Radkat]

Oooops, I meant video #14.



Hi, I used bondo in the seems. I ground them down first. Lots of voids in the seems and at the edges, corners of the body.
Then check out video #14, I used fiberglass to bond hte roof scoop.

No problem,
Gene

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/PGfSmTiTHf8

Body work is done.

[LCD Gauges]

Oh Baby, so nice! Are you doing the paint, or taking it elsewhere?

[rev2xs]

And what colour are you considering? For some reason, i get the impression that your planning on black. That would seriously look sweet in black.





Oh Baby, so nice! Are you doing the paint, or taking it elsewhere?

[fastthings]

I will be doing the paint, and I am planning on doing it in my garage. So far I'm thinking black, black wheels for sure.

[shinn497]

paint in your garage?! Isn't that risky? Don't you need a booth to filter the air and make sure dust and other things don't stick to the surface...

[Kempo]

paint in your garage?! Isn't that risky? Don't you need a booth to filter the air and make sure dust and other things don't stick to the surface...

It's a bit more complicated but it can be done. Mine was done in my garage as well and turned out really nice.

[fastthings]

Iv'e painted at least 5 cars in that garage, including one that made it in a magazine. It should be fine. And yes the garage goes into quite a transformation when I turn it into a paint booth, and yes it's crowded.

[mendo]

Iv'e painted at least 5 cars in that garage, including one that made it in a magazine. It should be fine. And yes the garage goes into quite a transformation when I turn it into a paint booth, and yes it's crowded.

Would be great to show us the setup, how you move the air, how you cover the stuff etc.

Thanks, I have been watching this the whole time!

[shinn497]

Yeah that would be nice. I would like to paint my miata myself. Do you think it would be possible to do custom work?

[posthaste]

*crickets chirping* Hello? It's too quiet in this thread!
We the semi-fanatical followers of the FastThings GTM build log videos can't help but wonder how it's going;)
I imagine there's some serious painting going on in a garage somewhere, and like everyone else on this board I can't wait to see how it's going along.
It's almost like waiting for Christmas! Well fingers crossed for you Mean Gene, I'm sure most of the us are pretty excited for you. Into the home stretch now;)

[skullandbones]

Iv'e painted at least 5 cars in that garage, including one that made it in a magazine. It should be fine. And yes the garage goes into quite a transformation when I turn it into a paint booth, and yes it's crowded.

Hi Gene,

When you "transform" the garage, do you drape everything that you don't want to paint or do you actually construct a booth? I have seen some with plastic temp walls. I've got a preliminary plan to hang plastic but it would be a real project in itself. Also, what do you do about the floor? I'm just getting to the body work on my roadster so I want to have this part figured out by the time I need to put some paint on it. Enjoyed your videos. Don't have time to see them all but I'm amazed at your attention to detail and patience! WEK.:cool::cool:

[fastthings]

HI guys, no paint, yet. I will paint sometime later. I tape plastic to the ceiling and let it drape down. put in a few filters and a fan. I don't worry about the floor, it's already got paint on it.
Here is #25
http://youtu.be/2YQyY8cwvSM

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/NebShP_qHjg

#26, had to mod the steering colum, pedals in

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/Irspe2Hg-O0

got the motor in

[narkosys]

going with the ac/heat was a good idea. I am not sure how comparable Olympia weather is to Seattle but I remember a day when it alternated between sunny, rain, sleet and snow every few minutes. It was surreal. With the AC plenum relocated with Shane's kit do you still need to move the battery over to the left like it says in the manual?

I love your videos. They are giving me great ideas and it is making the body work less scary as the only experience with fiberglass I have is rebuilding and repairing boat hulls.

P

[fastthings]

going with the ac/heat was a good idea. I am not sure how comparable Olympia weather is to Seattle but I remember a day when it alternated between sunny, rain, sleet and snow every few minutes. It was surreal. With the AC plenum relocated with Shane's kit do you still need to move the battery over to the left like it says in the manual?

I love your videos. They are giving me great ideas and it is making the body work less scary as the only experience with fiberglass I have is rebuilding and repairing boat hulls.

P

Thanks,
looks like I will be able to put the battery in a good spot, wich will be more twards the middle. I haven't got all in yet to decide. I will be trying to get the biggest battery I can fit,

[narkosys]

I prefer to have the battery more on the X as there is more support. If I can do that with Shane's kit (which is on my list) that is a bonus. Battery wise I am thinking an Optima battery made to fit a Z06 vette.

P

[fastthings]

Ya well, if I have to go more tward the steering colum the battery will have to be really small, because of the colum. Getting it out in the center more should allow a more normal sized battery.

Hey Shane, the relocate worked out good, sorry for always messing up your name on my videos. Did you see what I did with the left over cover that came with the vintage air setup? It kinda complements your relocater.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/3Mg8eIZsBR8

I'm at the stage, that a lot have talked about. Taking a pause and letting my family know I'm alive.

[LCD Gauges]

Gene, you have an indescribable amount of restraint to put the project aside when you are so close to completion. I doubt I could do the same!

Congrats on getting to this point.

[fastthings]

Hey guys, I'm back on it again. Got the brakes plumbed. I'm still in the middle of helping my boy on his Scirocco, so it will be back and forth for a while.

http://youtu.be/75x3oroEXx4

[Taz Rules]

Hey guys, I'm back on it again. Got the brakes plumbed. I'm still in the middle of helping my boy on his Scirocco, so it will be back and forth for a while.

http://youtu.be/75x3oroEXx4

Woohoo!
I'm addicted to your videos. I learned a lot just from watching them. I really like the idea of doing the bodywork first (and getting the messy stuff out of the way before the enthusiasm inevitably wanes!)

I'm going to be watching with interest!

[Taz Rules]

Just watched it.
I posted a reply earlier, but it didn't show up. I've learned a lot watching your videos, and I hope to apply it soon.

I really like the idea of doing the bodywork first (and getting the really messy stuff out of the way before enthusiasm for the project wanes!)
I'm watching eagerly to see the results.

[fastthings]

Hi Taz, thanks for the kind words, good luck on your dream. I am slowly getting back into full swing on the GTM. My son and I almost have his Scirocco done. I'm at kind of a weird spot, trying to consider where everything will go, so it's hard to get anything done when your not sure where it will go, but I'll get it.

I love your signature, my buddy and I have had a conversation about that brfore.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/n_fTztybWrQ

Update..I'm starting to get rolling again.

[MEDIC1236]

http://youtu.be/n_fTztybWrQ

Update..I'm starting to get rolling again.

Love the videos and information very good stuff for me and my daughter, thanks.

[fastthings]

No problem, I'm haveng fun.

Enjoy your build, and thanks.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/quBlpvbyaWA

Well, here is 31. Alot of figureing out in this part of the build. Searching for the best spot for things to set, and doing it so they will not interfear with the next.

[dm65]

Just for your information, when I installed my short shifter I just drilled a very small hole in the shaft where you have to cut the factory keeper off. Then put in a carter pin. You can put washers behind the pin hole to get the correct tension. The shaft is soft so the hole is easy to drill. I don't have a picture. I think the hole was drilled with a #45 drill bit. Just get a small carter pin and measure the diameter and drill to fit. Just an idea!

Don

[fastthings]

Thanks Don, that is a good idea. I have a Ace Hardware store in town that has 2 isles of every nut, bolt, clip, spring, spacer, bearing, retainer, you could ever think of. I love it, I've built 2 or 3 cars from those bins. so ya, Ill just grab another the next time I'm there.

I hear ya though, it's little tricks like that, that will get a project done instead of stuck.
Thanks

[Kempo]

Very nice progress Gene. I really enjoy watching your videos keep them coming. Make sure the A/C compressor has oil in it. Adding the oil with the refrigerant on this cars can ruin the compressor as it will run dry for too long before the enough oil reaches the compressor. I wasn't able to see it that clearly on the video but it seems you are missing the idler pulley for the compressor belt. You should have the tensioner on the lower side and the idler on top. That might be the reason why your belt is not fitting correctly.

[Joe Mush]

Kempos right make sure the A/C compressor has oil putting it in after really sucks I learned the hard way.

[fastthings]

Glad you guys brought that up, I have been wondering. I bought a remaned pump. It came with 2 ounces of oil in it, is that good? The manual says the system needs 8 ounces. So am I good to go, just add an additional 6 ounces after the evac?

Now the idler, on my LS2 it has no idler, just the tensioner. When I researched the difference between the LS1 and the LS2 pumps I wasn't sure if the 1 pump would fit on the 2 mounting bracket, it does. The only difference on the LS2 mounting bracket is the idler is deleted, so I think I'm ok to run it without the idler.

Kempo, did the LS3 come with a LS2 pump, did you switch to the LS1 pump. The bracket that came on the LS3 must have the idler, I assume, otherwise you wouldn't be wondering if I am misssing it.

What do you guys think?

[Edgeman]

14301

I have the LS3 crate engine with LS1 bracket.

[Kempo]

Glad you guys brought that up, I have been wondering. I bought a remaned pump. It came with 2 ounces of oil in it, is that good? The manual says the system needs 8 ounces. So am I good to go, just add an additional 6 ounces after the evac?

Now the idler, on my LS2 it has no idler, just the tensioner. When I researched the difference between the LS1 and the LS2 pumps I wasn't sure if the 1 pump would fit on the 2 mounting bracket, it does. The only difference on the LS2 mounting bracket is the idler is deleted, so I think I'm ok to run it without the idler.

Kempo, did the LS3 come with a LS2 pump, did you switch to the LS1 pump. The bracket that came on the LS3 must have the idler, I assume, otherwise you wouldn't be wondering if I am misssing it.

What do you guys think?

Gene, I think 2 ounces should work and be enough for that first start until the rest circulates with the refrigerant. just in case double check with someone that works on A/C systems on a daily basis to make sure.

I checked some belt routing diagrams and seems like you are good to go. on LS 2 and 3 models they only show the idler pulley on the A/c belt. On my car I have the LS1 set up with the LS1 bracket,compressor,tensioner,idler and belt like the one on Edgeman's picture.

The catalog shows the belt number for the LS2 as a gates number K040410. This means 4 ribs and 41.0 inches in length. Use a wire or something like that and route it around the compressor and engine damper and measure it. This should give you an idea if that 41 inches is the correct one for your set up.

[fastthings]

OK good, thanks you guys.

Your 2nd paragragh states on the LS2,3 there is only the idler, I think you ment tensioner only, Right?


*My plan is to get the engine running with the belt off, and then hook it up prior to the evac and charge as to keep the pump from running dry.

[Kempo]

Correct I meant tensioner.

[MGDBuddy]

For the best luck with the compressor you should really fill it with the correct amount of oil once you are ready to mount it for the last time and rotate it by hand multiple times with the pulley end down a little to be sure that you get the back side of the seal well lubricated. It may not show a problem right away but it could easily shorten the seal life. You need to keep the system closed as much as possible after putting the oil in the compressor.

[fastthings]

For the best luck with the compressor you should really fill it with the correct amount of oil once you are ready to mount it for the last time and rotate it by hand multiple times with the pulley end down a little to be sure that you get the back side of the seal well lubricated. It may not show a problem right away but it could easily shorten the seal life. You need to keep the system closed as much as possible after putting the oil in the compressor.

But, your'e not saying how much. The directions I have say to rotate 14 times, and came with the 2 ounces in the comp. They also say you must replace the orifice and the dryer. And for certian manufactures, like Honda, you must replace the condensor. Certianly your not recomending to put the full 8 ounces in the comp?

[mendo]

OK good, thanks you guys.

Your 2nd paragragh states on the LS2,3 there is only the idler, I think you ment tensioner only, Right?


*My plan is to get the engine running with the belt off, and then hook it up prior to the evac and charge as to keep the pump from running dry.


the compressor won't turn unless you apply power to the electric clutch. leave the plug disconnected if you are not sure and it won't turn.

[sressue]

Kempo,
Here are the instructions I have for the Oil in the A/C components.

8 ounces total system charge. You will want to split that oil up between 2 or 3 components. A few ounces in the compressor (there’s a bolt on the side of the body of the compressor; pour it in there to get directly to the crankcase), a couple in the accumulator, and the rest in the condenser, and you’ll be good to go.

Steve


But, your'e not saying how much. The directions I have say to rotate 14 times, and came with the 2 ounces in the comp. They also say you must replace the orifice and the dryer. And for certian manufactures, like Honda, you must replace the condensor. Certianly your not recomending to put the full 8 ounces in the comp?

[sressue]

Sorry.... Info should have been for fastthings.


Kempo,
Here are the instructions I have for the Oil in the A/C components.

8 ounces total system charge. You will want to split that oil up between 2 or 3 components. A few ounces in the compressor (there’s a bolt on the side of the body of the compressor; pour it in there to get directly to the crankcase), a couple in the accumulator, and the rest in the condenser, and you’ll be good to go.

Steve

[MGDBuddy]

With every compressor I install (automotive), I first add all the recomended oil to the compressor first, It was said that 8 ozs was called for. I would add the 8 oz of oil, I normally rotate the compressor at least 30 times ( full turns), after closing the system. Even though some new freons say that you do not have to run a vacuum the system is still very sensitive to moisture and it will still preform better if charged after a good vacuum is pulled on the system. All though the oil does migrate throughout the system when it is running it is still best to load all oil in the compressor to start with. Although oil can be put in other locations in the system, it can cause a momentary dry state in the compressor during start-up, not dry enough to kill the compressor right off but enough to shorten the life of the unit, it also has the possibility of overloading the orfice with oil in a surge and possibly creating high enough pressure to blow a seal. These cases do not happen everytime , but they do happen. Just passing on info learned over time and from training as well as attending several refrigeration/ ac siminars and over the years.

[fastthings]

Nice, thanks for the help guys.

Mendo, I realized that on the way to work as my mind was wondering, thanks.

OK, 1 more. The supplied preasure switch fits on a fitting up front by the condensor. The FF manual says to put the Corvette donar preasure switch in the line at the tunnel near the pump. I don't have one, do I need one at that location. Not sure what it is, or what it does. The two locations have a different thread size.

[VD2021]

Nice, thanks for the help guys.

Mendo, I realized that on the way to work as my mind was wondering, thanks.

OK, 1 more. The supplied preasure switch fits on a fitting up front by the condensor. The FF manual says to put the Corvette donar preasure switch in the line at the tunnel near the pump. I don't have one, do I need one at that location. Not sure what it is, or what it does. The two locations have a different thread size.

Gene,

The location on the AC lines (Compressor Side in the tunnel) is where the pressure switch will be installed. The donor pressure switch should be used if you're using the stock PCM and the trianry (VA supplied swt) if you're using a stand-a-lone.

Unless there's something unique about your lines, the only fittings up front are the high and low pressure service ports.

You can get the VA GenIV and trianry wiring diagrams on the VA website. I tried to upload them here but it appears they are too large.

HTHs.

[fastthings]

This type of thing is what we need a sub category for.

I do have a fitting up close to the condensor that does accept the switch fron the VA kit. It does not match in threads at the tunnel location. I am not to sure what stand alone means, versus stock PCM. Stand alone sounds like what I want to do, but I am going to use the box that came with the LS2, is that the PCM? Electronics is not my stong point. It sounds like your saying I will need to get the Corvette trianry, (what does that thing do?) and not use the VA supplied one.

Now, back to the oil. I did some research at the Corvette forum, all the advice says do not put all the oil in the compressor as it will choke it out and my blow a seal. Not saying anyone is wrong or right, it's that I'm getting different stories and trying to pan it out.

OK, I called an AC guy. He said don't put all the oil in the pump. It is designed to compress freon, not oil and may damage the pump. He said during the evap stage it should be done slow enough to not suck out any oil. He said 2 ounces in the comp is fine, add some in the dryer, and add some in the exit line of the comp. He said make sure I do the evap before the charge so no air is in the system. So ya, this is what I'm going to do.

[fastthings]

I've got the water and feul mapped out. Time to start on the wiring.

http://youtu.be/LsicC88P4TM

[VD2021]

This type of thing is what we need a sub category for.

I do have a fitting up close to the condensor that does accept the switch fron the VA kit. It does not match in threads at the tunnel location. I am not to sure what stand alone means, versus stock PCM. Stand alone sounds like what I want to do, but I am going to use the box that came with the LS2, is that the PCM? Electronics is not my stong point. It sounds like your saying I will need to get the Corvette trianry, (what does that thing do?) and not use the VA supplied one.

Gene,

Sorry, as I am just now seeing this post. I'm not sure why you have the additional port up front, but keep it capped as I don't see a use for it.

I should have clarified, but I was referring to your engine management system. You stated in one of your videos that you were supplied a stand-a-lone engine harness but since you are using the stock Power-train Control Module (PCM) (the electronic box that came with your LS2, sometimes referred to as the Engine Control Module (ECM)) you may be able to use a donor pressure switch.

The donor pressure switch works with the PCM to manage the AC operation. System pressure, fans off/on, compressor on/off, WOT compressor off are some of the items managed and your AC will work efficiently and as designed.

Per the instructions the VA trinary switch is wired to activate the compressor and fans only. I used the donor switch so maybe someone with a crate engine can give the details using the VA trinary switch. Or Shane, as I'm sure he has experienced both setups and can give a good assessment.

HTHs.

[fastthings]

Thanks Vidal.

I am just now getting into the wiring, very overwhelming for me. I am trying to figure out where to mount the isis modules, and what each will control. Trying to figure out this engine harness, I will have to relocate the wts, and the oil prs sensor.

I need a pedal and tac for the computer and motor I have. I found out the LS2 is least comon, E-38 ecm, 58x reluctor. pedal, tac combos have to match the ecu, Iv'e been reading.

[VD2021]

Gene,

I just watched you last video. Love the details you give.

I did notice something that you may have addressed in a location that I can't see on your video. Which if this is the case you can disregard the following.

The line connections to you overflow tank.

I see one line connected to the bottom and another of the same size connected to the side.

The braided line you are using to replace the 5/8” hose that would run from the water pump to the heater core, should be essentially cut and both of those ends should be connected with a “T” to the bottom of the header tank.

The vent, coming off the engine headers, should be connected to the side of the header tank.

The header tank fitting at the cap opening is used for an overflow tank (though it will likely not be needed).

My Race Shop (Crash) has some pictures detailing the install.
http://www.myraceshop.com/Header_TankHBV_Picture.html

I have a diagram I put together when I was doing my coolant system.
http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/cooling-system.html

[fastthings]

I think I'm OK, lets see.

I'm adding a port at the top of the can for the steam vent. I have 3/4 hose at the bottom of the can going to the big end at the water pump. I have 5/8 at the top of the can coming from the vavle (from Crash). At the small side of the water pump it goes dow to the valve.

So if the flow of the water goes, sucking in from the big/under preasure from the small, then it will fill from the top of the can and suck from the bottom.

[crash]

Vidal is correct. You need to put the head steam vent line into the higher half of the header tank and leave the two main lines down low. If you add a line from the water pump housing to the header tank, then it should also be in the bottom of the tank to keep the pump from sucking air under any circumstances. My personal setup for my race engines has just that. So there are three lines going into the bottom of the tank, and one line going to the top of the tank.

The kit that www.myraceshop.com sells is just a bunch of fittings I found that acheives this(minus the pump line) at a resonable cost. As I have told customers that inquire about the setup, it is cleaner if you have the fittings going into the tank with welded in NPT bungs, but for me to do that to all the tanks would add a considerable cost to the header tank kits. As most builders are cost conscious, the brass fittings are the cheapest and easiest way for builders to get a reasonable result.

[fastthings]

The steam vent is at the top of the can.

In theory, if the pump sucks from the large side coming from the bottom of the can, and the can stays full. As the other one keeps filling it up. I thought it would work???

No??

[crash]

Yes, but when things cool off they contract. The head steam vent doesn't matter and will likely have some air in it during correct operation. The other lines though, you want to avoid air getting into them by having a reservoir of water on top of them so that when things cool down they suck water and not air. :)

[fastthings]

So, I'm 90% convinced the way I have it will work, but I'll chage it for you guys:) I believe many systems expansion tanks run like that. I think the tank I have is designed to run like that. I am however worried about haveing a smaller sized tank, so with that and your worries I agree to change it. No big deal, better safe than sorry. THANKS

I'm starting to figure out the wiring a bit.
The harness I got is really cool. I didn't order it or really have any good directions with it. I'm wundering about a couple things.
rememder this is a 2006 LS2
The sensor plug for the water temp and the vehicle speed sensor are the same, any thoughts.
What is a Mill Lamp, it is a open ended wire coming out of the harness, up by the gauge wires. Is this my check engine light??
Do I need to run a neutral saftey switch?? I have a open ended wire labled.
I have a heavy gage open ended wire, green, coming out opposite a relay, you sapose it's for the feul pump.
How do I wire in the AC, do I do all that threw the ISIS, do I need to add a wire to the ecu to let the motor know the AC is on?? I have no wires in the harness that could be for the AC.

[fastthings]

One more thing I found out the ECU E-38 for the 2006 LS2, 58 tooth reluctor, does not use an external TAC module. I ordered a new pedal and it will plug straight into my harness. So I think I'm good on that.

[crash]

The stand alone ECUs have issues with the A/C situation. Talk to Shane, he seems to have worked through those. MIL is indeed a "check engine" light. No you dod not need to run the neutral safety switch if you do not want to.

[fastthings]

Thanks Crash, if it where you would you use the neutral switch. And were would you put it, at the shifter?

[crash]

No I don't like them. Usually they go on the clutch pedal. They are primarily a safety feature to keep the engine from being started while the transmission is in gear, so the OEMs put the switch on the clutch so that the clutch must be disengaged before the starter will turn over. This could be extremely important in cars like the Lexus that have push button start, as the start circuit will run the starter for quite awhile to try and get the engine to start, so if the car was in gear and that start system was engaged it would be difficult to shut the starter off before the car hit something in front of it. With a key, of course, if it is in gear and the clutch isn't disengaged, then when you let go of the key, the starter stops turning, and hopefully it doesn't start the engine before you realize that the car is moving. Anyway, to me it is not something I care for, but it is a reasonable safety switch.

[dm65]

I decided to be able to go either way and put a switch under the dash to bypass the clutch switch. I put a small limit switch on the clutch peddle. I don't have a picture of the switch on the clutch. See photo of the bypass switch.[ATTACH=CONFIG]14569

[fastthings]

Allright cool. So I suppose that will something to turn on or off when doing the tune?

[mendo]

then when you let go of the key, the starter stops turning,

some new cars keep the starter turning even if I let go of the key, my MB does that and my Smart does that too. you hit the key and let go, the starter turns until it fires.

I will not be installing the clutch switch on mine, just personal preferance. it has saved me a few times in cars that the clutch cable broke, I would turn the engine off at the light, put it in first gear, when the light goes green, hit the starter, move on, shift up to get home.

[LCD Gauges]

In Ontario you'll need the safety switch to pass certification; it's one of the tests done on manual transmission cars.
Check with your local mechanic to get a list of what needs to function in order to pass.

My car is currently wired directly to the starter, but I plan on adding the switch for the final build. It will also prevent a clutch-circuit code from flagging
in the OBDII (doesn't affect anything however).

Most newer cars are using the electronic start. It's one of the new trends for anti-theft, and offers a new method to start/kill the engine remotely.

[LCD Gauges]

Gene,

I just watched your video. Everything looks freakin' amazing as usual! It makes me wish I purchased a brand new kit to get all the shiny roll-cage, and parts as opposed to buying a car that was
sitting out-doors.

A word of caution: Check the temperature on your fuel pump after a short period of use. With two filters to push through, and no fuel to cool it, you may run the risk of overheating. You may want to opt for one filter (pre-pump), or run a vented air duct in that area if she starts getting hot.

EDIT: You also need to consider the heat from the headers. If the filters, and pump are touching the panels, the heat may transfer through.
Cool air, and cool fuel = more power potential.

[fastthings]

Gene,

I just watched your video. Everything looks freakin' amazing as usual! It makes me wish I purchased a brand new kit to get all the shiny roll-cage, and parts as opposed to buying a car that was
sitting out-doors.

A word of caution: Check the temperature on your fuel pump after a short period of use. With two filters to push through, and no fuel to cool it, you may run the risk of overheating. You may want to opt for one filter (pre-pump), or run a vented air duct in that area if she starts getting hot.

EDIT: You also need to consider the heat from the headers. If the filters, and pump are touching the panels, the heat may transfer through.
Cool air, and cool fuel = more power potential.

Well shoot, I hope it's OK. Maybe I should add some heat sheild. There is no room for nothing in that car, man.

[fastthings]

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/116XQZb1K3A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://youtu.be/116XQZb1K3A

more progress, gathering pieces

[VD2021]

Gene,
Awesome Idea on making that radiator aluminum panel removable.

[fastthings]

Thanks Vidal. I'm going to do the same on the pannel on the driver side tunnel, my ecu will be in there.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/1uWgZ7QD0gc

Pretty much have the motor stuff handled, now time to move onto the wiring.

A little extra excitement, we did get the Scirocco running. Now we learn how to tune dual Webers.

[crash]

I hope you have a flow guage?


http://youtu.be/1uWgZ7QD0gc

Pretty much have the motor stuff handled, now time to move onto the wiring.

A little extra excitement, we did get the Scirocco running. Now we learn how to tune dual Webers.

[Kempo]

Nice progress Gene. If I recall correctly I think that the port next to the starter can be used for coolant temp not oil pressure. Please double check on that.

[fastthings]

Crash, I don't have one nor do I know how to use it. But I bet a month from now I will own one and know haw to use it.:)

Kempo, I hope your not right. But please, thanks for speaking up.

I read somewhere, that was an alternate location. I found this(http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LS2-LS6-LS3-LQ4-LQ9-Engine-Block-Plug-Kit-COOLANT-OIL-/130858179559) as I was double checking. Down at the bottom is 2 pics. th guy is selling plugs for the oil gallery and water drain. The pics describe the location of the oil gallery on the LS block. The one I'm using is the one on the second pic beside the wire connector, for the crank I think.

What do you guys think?

[Kempo]

That info is wrong. On page 355 of the digital FFR manual states the following:

"Water Temp Sending Unit
Remove the coolant plug in front of the crank position sensor on the back passenger side of the engine
block."

[fastthings]

That info is wrong. On page 355 of the digital FFR manual states the following:

"Water Temp Sending Unit
Remove the coolant plug in front of the crank position sensor on the back passenger side of the engine
block.".

WTF, so your saying the digital manual has that as being wter? I don't have the manual, so I can't check. Why does the manual have you removeing that plug for? Isn't the water temp sensor up at the heads? Are the LS blocks the same as far as oil and water galleries? The manual would be refering to a LS1, I have the LS2.

Thanks Kempo, I will be looking somemore.

[Kempo]

Correct all LS engines have the same galleries. The manual have you remove that one for the water temp sensor installation using the provided fitting. I also installed my coolant sensor in one of the cylinder heads as you plan on doing. You can get oil pressure on top of the engine from the valley cover or on the driver side of the engine just above the oil filter. Just tap that small cover in case you don't have a fitting in there which you should have from the stock Vette oil temp sensor (if equipped). Where this black part is located. You can also access the oil galleries in the plug just behind it or the small one behind the alternator in that same side of the block.

Hope this helps.

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y1pluraDQXL9zhaASs75Dt3nFYkZ-h2Pen-wU5E9LqUdcHiJUBQX_61ihJtl-MU_JPJqaa9n-w6W_sYIfx7pXv9BaEqef3EVGwZ/IMG_0986.JPG?psid=1

[fastthings]

Ya, it helps alot. I knew of the location by the altenator and the oil filter. I miss read or was dreaming or something, about the location I chose. Then I find things on the net about the location up by the crank sensor. Iv'e spent the last half hour looking, and it would seem your right. I'll look somemore at work.

Anyone have any input on this????

[crash]

Sorry, not to side track, but a flow meter is a REQUIRED TOOL for multiple carbs. Some call it a synchronizer or synching meter. Without this tool it is next to impossible to get the butterflies matched from carb to carb. Without that, the engine will not idle smoothly or perform as well.

They aren't all that expensive, and some kits come with multiple units that are themselves synchronized to each other so you can put the meters on multiple carbs at the same time.

Really anything with multiple seperate butterflies with seperate runners, like ITBs, requires the use of a flow meter to get it tuned right. This is one of the reasons I really do not like ITBs. They can go out of synch very easily with something as small an intake backfire. Also linkages between butterfly units is IMPERATIVE that they are precision.

Good luck with the dual carbs. :)

[fastthings]

Sorry, not to side track, but a flow meter is a REQUIRED TOOL for multiple carbs. Some call it a synchronizer or synching meter. Without this tool it is next to impossible to get the butterflies matched from carb to carb. Without that, the engine will not idle smoothly or perform as well.

They aren't all that expensive, and some kits come with multiple units that are themselves synchronized to each other so you can put the meters on multiple carbs at the same time.

Really anything with multiple seperate butterflies with seperate runners, like ITBs, requires the use of a flow meter to get it tuned right. This is one of the reasons I really do not like ITBs. They can go out of synch very easily with something as small an intake backfire. Also linkages between butterfly units is IMPERATIVE that they are precision.

Good luck with the dual carbs. :)

It will be fun getting them dialed in. If your real good you can tune them with a listening tube. And Iv'e been watching howto videos:)http://youtu.be/bbsfOpyc_oM

[crash]

I've done the listening tube thing...and then compared with a flow meter. The differences in idle are very apparent when you actually use a meter. You can get it close by tube, but it will never be "right". That said, my neighbor was also quite upset at how long it took me to get it "close" without the meter. He never complained about noise before, but when I did the dual carb tuning he was not happy. It took a LONG time without the flow meter.

[fastthings]

I've done the listening tube thing...and then compared with a flow meter. The differences in idle are very apparent when you actually use a meter. You can get it close by tube, but it will never be "right". That said, my neighbor was also quite upset at how long it took me to get it "close" without the meter. He never complained about noise before, but when I did the dual carb tuning he was not happy. It took a LONG time without the flow meter.

That's funny, they are loud!! I'm going to be able to hear that boy 2 1/2 miles away, down our valley. :)

[fastthings]

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv100/dave033149/ls1-6-oil-flow-diagram.jpg

After seeing pics like this, and with no other info supporting, looks like I need to move the sensor.

Thank you, sooo much, Kempo.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/toTj8Z67gDk

Moveing along, Can't wait till I get this thing wired up.

[posthaste]

Man, it's almost cart time! I can't wait to see you take it out.
On that note, I can't wait for ours to be built either. Almost, just another million things to go over, twice;)
Quite a lot of isis modules, I am jealous as hell, a little past our budget (for now haha), I bet you saw it on the 2 guys garage with the gtm?
So slick with the instant diagnosis and visual confirmation....
Sorta makes the painless-systems look old.

[fastthings]

Man, it's almost cart time! I can't wait to see you take it out.
On that note, I can't wait for ours to be built either. Almost, just another million things to go over, twice;)
Quite a lot of isis modules, I am jealous as hell, a little past our budget (for now haha), I bet you saw it on the 2 guys garage with the gtm?
So slick with the instant diagnosis and visual confirmation....
Sorta makes the painless-systems look old.

Ya, lots of modules, I don't like that part. I got it for the touch screen, that I do like. And I got it on a group buy before the price increase, it is much more expensive now. I have baught parts and pieces at seperate times, to help spred out the cost over the months.
I did see the install, they make it look so easy.

I really like the painless products, I've done 2 of the universal kits, never had a problem.

Have you started a build thread?

[posthaste]

Not as of yet, we picked the car up off the original owner at almost cart stage and we're going over some of the bits done, and picking out some things we'd like to change. (On that note, I'd wager it's easier to build from start then to pick up in the middle for anyone out there wondering) It's coming along though, sooner then later we'll get a build log up. Pretty sure painless is how we'll handle our setup.
Still, I'm envious, nice bit of kit there.

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

Gene,

if I remember correctly, you said a while back that you were waiting on getting a tranny... have you ordered one yet & if so, which one???

[Taz Rules]

Not as of yet, we picked the car up off the original owner at almost cart stage and we're going over some of the bits done, and picking out some things we'd like to change. (On that note, I'd wager it's easier to build from start then to pick up in the middle for anyone out there wondering) It's coming along though, sooner then later we'll get a build log up. Pretty sure painless is how we'll handle our setup.
Still, I'm envious, nice bit of kit there.
Hey, posthaste, I'm in BC, too. Sent you a PM.
(sorry for the off-topic. we now return to our previously scheduled thread.)...

Gene, your vids are what got me started thinking about a GTM. I can't wait to see how yours turns out. I may even have to make a trip to WA to see it for myself!
Keep those vids coming, and great job!

[fastthings]

Cowboy, I'm waiting on the Mendeola. I'm getting the 4-11 gears. Maybe Juneish. I like 0 to 100mph, I won't be doing any 200mph runs. Car won't be good for long highway runs, so 4-11's it is.

Taz, let me know.


Hey guys, this isn't a GTM, but it is related to my build, since it's been holding me up. And my son and I are excited, we got the Scirocco done. It has a leaner idle jet, than it had in the video, now. Running real good, and real strong. Runs nice and cool. We've got about 38 to 40 degrees total advance in it, it loves it.


http://youtu.be/eIVCsjzn6Gs

[crash]

Hey guys, this isn't a GTM, but it is related to my build, since it's been holding me up. And my son and I are excited, we got the Scirocco done. It has a leaner idle jet, than it had in the video, now. Running real good, and real strong. Runs nice and cool. We've got about 38 to 40 degrees total advance in it, it loves it.

http://youtu.be/eIVCsjzn6Gs

Fun stuff. Very clean build.

[fastthings]

Fun stuff. Very clean build.

Thanks Crash. From start to finnish, what alot. I made him go threw evey part, every piece. I pitty the kid who thinks he's funny and sits on that car.

[fastthings]

I'm moveing along with the wiring. I need to put the tanks in and then get the ECU flashed, and I'll start it up. Any suggestions on who to send my ECU to?


http://youtu.be/BvbdG5yEHqo

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

Gene... great job dude.... won't be long now & you'll be ready to show your boy just how sluggish that Scirocco is... :D
I most definitely am going to have to quicken the additions to my GTM fund (aka: mason jar on the dresser)... keep the vids coming....

having your boy invest the elbow grease into his first car is the BEST way to insure he takes care of it.... I screwed up & bought my oldest daughter's first car.... learned RERALLY quickly that was a mistake... when my son got around to being "legal" he had already helped me on several projects & pretty much built his first truck himself...

JT...

[fastthings]

Man, I can't wait until this wiring is done.


http://youtu.be/6S-Bmrmk2EU

[fastthings]

Question guys, I think I get how to wire up the trinary switch to the VA. It came with a harness that has 2 relays. One to run the comressor, one to run the heater control valve. I think I need to run one of those trigger wires over to my fan relay so the fans come on with the ac, correct?

Also, do I need a relay for each fan, or is one relay good to supply power for both fans?

I also want to run a fan override switch, I will run the override wire to the fan relay trigger wire, correct?

This is the 3rd car I've wired from scratch, I wish I had a better understanding of this stuff.

[VD2021]

Question guys, I think I get how to wire up the trinary switch to the VA. It came with a harness that has 2 relays. One to run the comressor, one to run the heater control valve. I think I need to run one of those trigger wires over to my fan relay so the fans come on with the ac, correct?

Yes, but it is not a direct trigger for the fans. The fans and the compressor will be triggered/activated by outputs from the trinary switch. http://www.vintageair.com/DownloadsSection/Quick%20Reference%20Wiring%20Diagrams/24678-VUS%20Trinary%20Safety%20Switch%20Wiring%20Diagram .pdf



Also, do I need a relay for each fan, or is one relay good to supply power for both fans?

I'm not sure of the current draw of the fans. I would opt for one per fan.


I also want to run a fan override switch, I will run the override wire to the fan relay trigger wire, correct?

Yes. This should be the same relay coil input as the trianry switch trigger input.

HTHs.

[fastthings]

I think I'm starting to get it. See if this makes since.

In addition to the two relays that came with the VA, heater valve control relay and comressor relay, I have a relay in my engine harness for one fan.

I will leave the existing fan relay alone and let the ECU run that fan for engine temp.

At the trinary switch I will use one side to ground the relay for the compressor.

I will add a fourth relay, pin 30 will be 12v 40 amp supply, pin 86 I will run threw the trinary switch and then ground, pin 85 will be the 12v from keyed power, pin 87 to the second fan.
Now, I have an option within ISIS for an aux fan, when switched on it supplies 12v to a wire, 25 amps max. Where will I connect the 12v wire to turn on the fan from the aux fan switch, to pin 85? It doesn't seem like that is correct, because then I would have to have the aux fan turned on in order for the 2nd fan to work.

See, this is the part I don't get. How or what is the trinary switch doing? If the fourth relay is wired to the 2nd fan threw the trinary switch with keyed 12v power, will it come on by itself by being grounded threw the trinary switch because the AC was turned on? Should I make both fans operate as one, or is it ok to use them as two sepperate fans like I described? And then last but not least, how would I intagrate the opton af having the aux fan switch, wich when activated supplies 12v power, were would I hook it to?

[fastthings]

Maybe the 12v wire from the ISIS is for a low amp aux fan, not a switch to turn on the engine cooling fan.

[fastthings]

Scatch that.

I already had a fourth relay in the fuse pannel, it had the pin 30 and pin 85 hooked up. Pin 86, and 87 were not hooked up. I tied into pin 86 from the other relay, added a wire to pin 87.

So now I have two fan relays triggered by the ECU at pin 86. I tied into pin 86 and ran that to the trinary sitch.

If I have this correct, now the fan will come on one of two ways. Triggered either by the ECU or triggered from the trinary switch. Do I have this right?????

I guess I could call Jay at ISIS, but can you guys see how I could use the fan override?

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/_U6CAQCihQM

[fastthings]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-uwSAQrDLs&feature=share&list=UUUGm49lOviicv8vE8zoWZoA



Getting there, working on the intake at the moment. Then finnish the install of the tanks, flash the ECU, and fire it up.

[fastthings]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w40ZF853Ftw&feature=share&list=UUUGm49lOviicv8vE8zoWZoA

[VD2021]

Gene,

Your CAI is too cool. Great job.

[fastthings]

Gene,

Your CAI is too cool. Great job.

Thanks Vidal, I really stuggled to get the best of both worlds, functional and pretty.

[Aman]

WOW

Gene that is looking out of this world. Amazing job! Your ingenuity and attention to detail are unreal. Really enjoying the videos!

Aman

[Kempo]

Very nice progress Gene. That is one cool intake setup you have there.

[Kalstar]

Hot damn, that is one purdy engine bay. You are truely gifted.

[fastthings]

Thanks guys, I can't wait to see if it all works. If not, you all will see me cry on video.

[kabacj]

Awesome intake setup Gene.

Its going to work. Im sure of it.

I am designing an intake myself and its not easy to make somthing as nice as you have.

great job!

John

[fastthings]

I haven't put much time in on the GTM latley, but Iv'e been rounding things up. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

http://youtu.be/QG4Un33unrk

[LCD Gauges]

Gettin' close Gene! What do you have in mind for rear-view visibility? Do you plan on using a dedicated camera, or no rear-view at all?

[fastthings]

Gettin' close Gene! What do you have in mind for rear-view visibility? Do you plan on using a dedicated camera, or no rear-view at all?



I have a front and rear camera that comes up on the side of the rear view mirror.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/vlbjxmQZfJk

Sent off my ECM to get flashed today. Can't wait to fire it up.

[VD2021]

Gene,

Cool, more Progress.

Have you placed the body to see where the wheels are relative to the wheel wells?

[fastthings]

Gene,

Cool, more Progress.

Have you placed the body to see where the wheels are relative to the wheel wells?

Hey Vidal, nope, I havn't checked yet. It is what it is, I feel it should be good, from all the checking I did. I would hate to have to chop up the body at this point, but if I have to I sure will.

I bet there is a group of guys waiting to see if it fits, givin the sequence I chose. I will go ahead and finnish the gokart, then ?

[mmaragos]

I am thinking the body to wheel spacing will be good too - I definitely hope that it is. You will be on the road that much sooner then. Great build by the way! It has been awesome to watch your videos and watch you use your impressive talent.

[VD2021]

Hey Vidal, nope, I havn't checked yet. It is what it is, I feel it should be good, from all the checking I did. I would hate to have to chop up the body at this point, but if I have to I sure will.

I bet there is a group of guys waiting to see if it fits, givin the sequence I chose. I will go ahead and finnish the gokart, then ?

Yeah. It will validate taking care of the body work up front so you move to the fun stuff through completion. I don't foresee there being any issues in the rear, but with the 100+ hood positions and wheel alignment, the front may or may not be good to go. If there is, I'm sure you'll have it squared away in an afternoon.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/dlFu9Q8Biiw

Next is getting the motor prepped to fire.

[Aman]

Loved the updates Gene, thanks!

What kind of foam strips did you use on the tanks, and what kind of foam sleeves on all the coolant lines? the multiple thickness strips is nice, and I can't find something 'high heat' enough for the coolant lines so far.

Thanks man
Aman

[fastthings]

Thanks Aman,
The selection of foam for the tanks came from Lowes, it's in the door section. Different seals for doors and windows. The coolant line stuff is just a pipe insulator, you can get that from Lowes also. It should be good for 200 degres. I think a heat gun would melt that stuff, but I can't imagine it melting with bioiling water. It is desinged for water pipes, hot and cold, should be good.

[Edgeman]

Gene,
I did have that stuff melt, it says that it is good to the 200 range but it will melt. It was closer to the engine and water pump ends. I just ended up using the welding blanket instead, it has a higher temp rating.

[fastthings]

Gene,
I did have that stuff melt, it says that it is good to the 200 range but it will melt. It was closer to the engine and water pump ends. I just ended up using the welding blanket instead, it has a higher temp rating.

Well, hmm. It's good up to 220 degrees. I will at least do some testing, and I may need to replace it.

thanks for the heads up guys.

[fastthings]

And it runs,

http://youtu.be/Qb-Om58rozQ

[LCD Gauges]

Looking good as always. What is that whirring sound - the fuel pump? If so, you may want to isolate the body & pump with rubber to reduce the resonating.

[Aman]

Congrats on the huge milestone Gene, that must've felt great to hear the engine run!!

Aman

[fastthings]

Looking good as always. What is that whirring sound - the fuel pump? If so, you may want to isolate the body & pump with rubber to reduce the resonating.
Should I buy it a pink pillow to rest on? It's a race car, a gokart, a bad *** performace machine, it can make a noise or two, it will be fine.
Thanks


Congrats on the huge milestone Gene, that must've felt great to hear the engine run!!

Aman

Thanks, yes, it was quite a relief. Now Iv'e got some work to do.

[LCD Gauges]

Should I buy it a pink pillow to rest on?

Hey Gene, I was going to write you a private message, but if I ruffled a few feathers I'd like to apologize to you in front of everyone.

I'm only trying to help out a GTM brother, but if you like the pump configured that way, it's all good!

For what it's worth, I'm always looking for tips on body work & paint so don't be a stranger.

[fastthings]

Hey Gene, I was going to write you a private message, but if I ruffled a few feathers I'd like to apologize to you in front of everyone.

I'm only trying to help out a GTM brother, but if you like the pump configured that way, it's all good!

For what it's worth, I'm always looking for tips on body work & paint so don't be a stranger.

Hard to tell from text, huh. Don't worry bro, no problem. I just thought it was pretty funny.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/7FThGrWjXoM

I wish the madness would stop, I have no buisness adding more debt to my project. But the engine will get an upgrade, I have to do it.

[fastthings]

http://youtu.be/DwSHLCaBS1I

I found some major stuff after pulling the motor apart, so glad I found them.

[flotowngtm]

Youtube has been blocked here for sometime but its working today, I think the last video of your's I seen was way back in the body work. Good to see your making some progress. That engine bay is going to be ..... WOW

[dhanisch]

I just contacted FF about buying a full replacement interior for my GenI and they mentioned that they are not offering replacement Gen2 pieces currently until they work out the production defects. It's a shame to see it lifted like that.

[scottvette1989]

Gene
Give FFR a call, they replaced my interior two times. They said there was a problem with the glue that was used for a while.
Scott

[Edgeman]

I called last week to see if they would replace mine, for the third time and yes they will. The manufacture has the process fixed and they are just waiting on a shipment from them, then they will replace.

[fastthings]

Youtube has been blocked here for sometime but its working today, I think the last video of your's I seen was way back in the body work. Good to see your making some progress. That engine bay is going to be ..... WOW

Thanks, do you live in a different country?

[fastthings]

OK, I may give them a call. It's just that the last time I complained I felt put out. See here I go, I just better keep my mouth shut.

I should give them a call. Why don't they contact me if they are worried about the quality of the stuff they put out, it's their reputation.
Here I go again-----mouth shut-----

Thanks guys

[flotowngtm]

I am in Afghanistan with the military

[Kempo]

Gene,

I love the progress you are making on your car. At that pace you will be on the road soon. I'm glad you found those issues in your engine before it was too late. If I was in your shoes I would pull out the rod caps and crank caps and inspect the bearings just to be sure there wasn't any damage done down there. Better safe than sorry since you already have the engine out.

On the interior issue you can take it to an upholster and have the stock covers removed and re-glued with some quality glue. I know this is an FFR issue that should not cost you a cent but, it will solve the issue ASAP. You can also get a quote from the upholster and talk to FFR and see if they would cover the expense. I figure that work should be cheaper than just shipping those two boxes from and to FFR.

[Kempo]

I am in Afghanistan with the military

Thanks for your service buddy!!!! Stay safe.

[sk7500]

Double "thank you" from me.


Thanks for your service buddy!!!! Stay safe.

[fastthings]

I am in Afghanistan with the military

Wow, I guess your in a different country. Somewhere I would not want to be, so thank you!

I pulled a coulple caps and it's not good, minor marks on the bearings. I will take the short block in and have it all done. Pollish the crank, new bearings, and what ever he thinks about the rings.

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

dang... it's been a while since I was able to get caught up on this build....
I really don't want to grow up... but when I DO, I wanna grow up to be 1/2 as talented as Gene!!!!
I sooooooooo wish I had the attention to detail that you have... GREAT work...

on your transaxle, I remember you saying you were going with the 4.11 R&P.... what internal gear ratios did you go with???
I would think dropping the R&P to 4.11 with even the same gearing as a stock vette would still be a 200 mph car... if my calcs are correct at 6000rpm in high gear with a 26" tall tire & 4.11 final would give 225mph....I have played with quite a few of the VW gear boxes (basicly the same as the porsche 4 spd) & with the relative weight of the GTM I think I would want to go with a little taller first & second then a closer 3rd 4th 5th & 6th on a 3.75 r&p... would give a little lower top speed (like 219mph @ 6000rpm in 6th) but would be closer ratio throughout the box & would be a hell of a lot of fun to drive....

[fastthings]

Thanks man

4.11 final drive with 2.21,1.5,1.14,.89,.70
I will never see 200 miles an hour.
http://youtu.be/ctEPxBQ0IhII like 0 to 150 as fast as I can. Also I live 10 min from a 2.5 mile road coarse. I will be on the track for fun, the 4.11's should be what I want.

I do have the box in my garage now, it looks nice. I am sending the engine block to a builder to get it pollished up.

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

oh... you went with a 5 spd... the 6 speed I was thinking about has about that same gear ratio with a .50 6th gear on top to get the 200+...

[fastthings]

Yes, I finnaly got my Mendeola SDR.

[scottvette1989]

Gene
SDR?
How long was it from order to delivery?
Scott

[fastthings]

Gene
SDR?
How long was it from order to delivery?
Scott

Lets say 9 months, they claim they are working tward a much shorter time frame.

[crash]

Mendeola is looking at ramping up stock so that lead times are drastically reduced. This requires a large investment of both space and $$. I have been talking with Ian and Mike and they say that demand for the SDR is picking up so they are looking at possibly stocking all parts on the shelf so it comes down to a matter of assembly time only as opposed to having to wait on an outside vendor for one part or another. This, as far as I know, has been the major sticking point in getting the boxes out in a quick fashion. One of the suppliers seems to ALWAYS have some sort of delay which puts the whole build process on hold. Just part of the deal when working in relatively small volumes of transaxles, but it sounds like things are changing for the better. :)

[fastthings]

The pieces of the puzzle don't add up. When I pullled the heads off it had felpro gaskets, the guy at the machine shop noticed that one of the oil plugs was not factory, real diry oil. So I don't get it, for a motor that only has 200 miles on it, it sure has been threw alot. None the less, it will be all new in a few short weeks.


http://youtu.be/w6qAB4q7k6k

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

Gene,
I have been sifting through some other threads & have seen quite a few folks talking about the tires not centering in the wheel wells once they got the alignment where they wanted it.. I've looked through your build a couple times & have to say your attention to detail is something I wish I could claim but I'm wondering after reading the issues of others, have you checked wheel positioning after alignment??? hope you don't have to start cutting into the body again...

JT

[fastthings]

Gene,
I have been sifting through some other threads & have seen quite a few folks talking about the tires not centering in the wheel wells once they got the alignment where they wanted it.. I've looked through your build a couple times & have to say your attention to detail is something I wish I could claim but I'm wondering after reading the issues of others, have you checked wheel positioning after alignment??? hope you don't have to start cutting into the body again...

JT


Lets hope I covered everything. If not, yes, I'll be cutting into it.

[fastthings]

Lets hope I covered everything. If not, yes, I'll be cutting into it.



When I got my kit, that's all I had. And no money to buy any parts. So I started building what I had.

The problems I saw on other threads was the back was kicked over and the front was not a circle. I was able to center the body at the rear, I measured from the suspension mounts to the body in a few key spots. At the front when I put the nose on, I could see what it was not a circle. By mounting the nose higher in the front and lower at the glass, I had to trim the area behind the wheel insteaad of add. And I didn't have to remake a circle out of the hole. Now by doing that it was real tight at the wiper area, but I got that to work in a different way.

So long story short, Ive done collision work all my life. When your turning 200 hours a week I got real good at knowing when the frame, susenion mounts, fenders, is going to fit while it's still mounted to the frame rack. You can't let it set on the ground with the wheels on it to check if it's going to pass. then mount it back up, set up the measureing system, and do another pull. It has to be right. So as I did the bodywork I feel I got it real damn close with what I had, so we'll see. Yes, I would hate to have to cutt into it and redo something, at the end, but that was the chance I took to be able to work on it with no parts. I still don't have all I need to put the body on and check, I'm waiting for some mounts for the rear shock.

[fastthings]

My motor is done, so back together.

http://youtu.be/YE7TCtGOyfc

[LCD Gauges]

Good to see the engine back at home, and done up right! Nice to know you made the effort worthwhile as you found more
issues hiding inside the motor.

[Kempo]

Very nice motor you got there Gene. I'm glad to see its back in the car. Keep those videos coming.

[VD2021]

Oh yeah..............You'll be karting soon:cool:.

[fastthings]

Ya it's getting there guys. I put in the Mende last night. I need to research a good breather system. I'm going to delete the pcv, I don't want all that oil.

[kabacj]

Gene the build looks awesome. I can see all of the custom touches you have added. Let me tell you, they are all worth it. Its so nice to have all the special things that make the GTM your own exactly the way you want it.

Boy it sounds like going through the motor was the best outcome. Now you have a well built motor to go with all of the other quality parts on your car.

Looking at your car reminds me of how cool it is to have this giant collection of brand new parts sitting in your garage. I really enjoyed that part of the build. I guess thats why people build kit after kit.

Every part of the process is fun. I cant wait to hear what you think of your first drive.

John

[fastthings]

John,
I'm goin to freak out on the first drive. I have zero experience with such a beast, I can't wait.

[fastthings]

Still putting in the hours.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAh6KF-E_-s&feature=share&list=UUUGm49lOviicv8vE8zoWZoA

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

come on Gene.... I NEED a fix....
seriously dude.... no updates since LAST YEAR!!!!!!! sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesh....

[fastthings]

come on Gene.... I NEED a fix....
seriously dude.... no updates since LAST YEAR!!!!!!! sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesh....

LOL, I get it.

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

Gene... sorry, I couldn't resist.... I am hooked on your build log.... I have been through all your videos several times & my girlfriend was in the kitchen last NYE as I was watching through them yet again... (think I was on like # 42 when she said "either he is going to have to get some new material OR you are going to have to hurry up & start on your car, I am about tired of listening to the same videos over & over"... (she is NOT a supporter of me building a car....) I HAD to laugh out loud at her when I played the video you posted that same night... told her she had to stop griping since you posted new material....

[fastthings]

I am sitting hear laghing at the thought of your poor girlfriend haveing to sit listen to my lame voice over and over again. I can't even stand to listen to myself,LOL. What can I say, I'm not Hollywood material.

[Taz Rules]

I am sitting hear laghing at the thought of your poor girlfriend haveing to sit listen to my lame voice over and over again. I can't even stand to listen to myself,LOL. What can I say, I'm not Hollywood material.

What are you talking about, Gene???!!! You sound EXACTLY like Ben Stein! He's made a pretty good living in Hollywood....

Bueller? Bueller?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhiCFdWeQfA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhiCFdWeQfA

:p J/K

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

I am sitting hear laghing at the thought of your poor girlfriend haveing to sit listen to my lame voice over and over again. I can't even stand to listen to myself,LOL. What can I say, I'm not Hollywood material.

you obviously have NOT heard ME speak... I'm a thick tongued Cajun from the swamps of deep south La transplanted to Texas with a drawl from hell... people I have known for years & see on a regular basis have trouble understanding me & quite a few close friends are ALWAYS making fun of my talking.... (think of Sam Elliot with a real southern drawl & a French accent...)

[fastthings]

That's funny Taz, it's hard to talk to myself with excitement. I don't care if my hair is combed either.:)

Video 50 may be a go kart ride.

[fastthings]

Well the weather has been bad so no go kart ride, but it is ready. A few things to still work out, but all in all it's ready. Vidal, I got your PM but it keeps freezeing my browser. I'll put the body on it for a "make sure" look and paint it. It needs a tune so I'll wait to run it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlbO6UPEAN0&feature=share&list=UUUGm49lOviicv8vE8zoWZoA

[Kempo]

Looking good Gene!!!! You might want to double check your exhaust mount. In the video it is attached to the rear sub-frame. That sub frame will not move with the engine. You might want to change that mounting point to the frame that is attached to the trans-axle so that they move together. You might be able to get away with the current configuration you have if you can get some bushings in there to take care of that movement. Make sure those bushing can handle the heat that will transfer thru the mount bracket.

[fastthings]

It's always something, huh, Kempo. I never thought of that. I get no movement out of the motor, at all. Do you have the stock mounts, or the Pfat mounts. I think for now I might be OK? I'll scope it out somemore, thanks for the heads up.

[Kempo]

Yes I do have the stock mounts.

[kabacj]

Hey Gene

Looking great. I also have the phadt mounts.

I did this to isolate the engine twist while attaching the exhaust to the frame. http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/5BED40D5-62B8-439A-8FB1-4DE627809729-12897-000024A95E36AED5.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/5BED40D5-62B8-439A-8FB1-4DE627809729-12897-000024A95E36AED5.jpg.html)


Following Hugo's suggestion I isolated the clamp from the exhaust tube with a layer of fiberglass wrap. The bushings have been ok all year.

John

[Erik W. Treves]

So, while I like the execution of the catch cans....you might think about moving them outside the beautiful engine compartment (either in both corners behind the rear wheels or over the tail housing of the tranny). What I think you find happen is that oil mist/vapor WILL come out of those filters and then turn back into liquid and make a mess in your engine compartment. I have both covers vented to one catch can and it still makes a mess...maybe cause you have 2 you'll have better luck....in any event sounds really good.

[Edgeman]

25271
Gene,
The exhaust twists with engine, I also have the factory set up. I used Kempo's set up to have the exhaust bolted to the sub frame.

[fastthings]

I really appriciate the help guys, thanks. I'll redo the mount, when will it end???? Man, I want this thing done.

[Fugly_Old_Cowboy]

sounds good Gene....
& my girlfriend is gonna LUV it when she hears you added a new TWENTY SIX MINUTE video to your build log...:eek: