Upper radiator hose question(petcock question)

[capt1black]

I am using the parts that came with the kit for radiator hoses. Lower was a piece of cake. Top i am having trouble. Do these 2 parts work together? I can not get the metal pipe into the rubber tube with the cap. This is the last step before first start. Thanks.

140808

[Caddy Dad]

Just a word of caution on using the supplied parts for radiator hoses. It might be OK for a first start, but I wouldn't use them beyond that. My upper hose blew off just as my engine was reaching operating temperature. This topic has been discussed quite a bit, usually its not If but When. :-( Invest in the Boig cool pipes. They're a much better product and easier installation.
Cheers!

See posts #80 and 90.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34344-Caddy-Dad-Mk-IV-Roadster-build-Driving-impressions-and-first-cars-and-coffee/page2

[Papa]

X2 on the Boig Cool Tubes with the integrated filler.

https://boigmotorsports.com/product-category/cool-tubes/

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84666&d=1524442443

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136461&d=1602970245

[capt1black]

Thanks guys. I thought some would suggest those. I did see the past posts and did some sandpaper on the chrome ends as some have suggested and was planning 2 clamps. Looked at the boig tubes but another $200+ is not in the budget right now. We’ll see how it goes.

Cheers

[RBachman]

Just a couple suggestions going with the corrugated pipes.
Make sure there are no bending or tension loads on the rubber connectors. Make sure there are no irregularities in the pipe that may cause a failure, such as being out of round, having large burrs, etc. Double up on the clamps and secure them firmly but don't over tighten. Assuming the radiator fluids are properly filled, run the engine. If there are no leaks, let it get warm enough to open the thermostat, let things circulate and get warm, shut it down, let it cool and tighten the clamps again. Heat it up again letting it get hotter for longer while always looking for leaks. Let it cool, and check the clamps again. After that, periodically check the clamps especially after the first good fun/hard runs. And always be noticeable of potential leaks. But get the Boig kit when funds allow anyway.

Edited to add: You can a little antifreeze with water to help lubricate the rubber connectors.

[ThreeSpore]

X2 on the Boig Cool Tubes with the integrated filler.


Hey Papa, what's the bracket you are using to secure the bottom pipe?

[Papa]

Hey Papa, what's the bracket you are using to secure the bottom pipe?

Simple bracket from Breeze. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/lower-radiator-hose-bracket-for-round-tube-x-brace/

[ThreeSpore]

Simple bracket from Breeze. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/lower-radiator-hose-bracket-for-round-tube-x-brace/

thanks. Purchased!

[nucjd19]

Every time I click on a capt1 thread I end up buying something LOL! Been looking at those Cool Tubes for a while and Papa's post pushed me over the ledge. One less thing to worry about when I fire it up :)

[capt1black]

Every time I click on a capt1 thread I end up buying something LOL! Been looking at those Cool Tubes for a while and Papa's post pushed me over the ledge. One less thing to worry auto when I fire it up :)

Don’t feel bad, every time I post it costs me money.

[frankb]

I used a combination of gates hoses, top #1601 and #22301, bottom #22083 and #21953. With the Cleveland block, the top is different, but the bottom will be the same with the Windsor block.140853140854140855

[ggunter]

X3 on the Boig pipes. The frustration level alone will make you buy them. That corrogated piping from FFR is just not good. After I got it to stop leaking it just made me wonder when and where it was going to blow off and leave me setting.

[ggunter]

X3 on the Boig pipes. The frustration level alone will make you buy them. That corrogated piping from FFR is just not good. After I got it to stop leaking it just made me wonder when and where it was going to blow off and leave me setting. Looks like FrankB was able to come up with a hose configuration that works.

[Norm B]

I am going to be a contrarian. I have run the FFR supplied metal radiator pipes for 6 years with no leaks. The simple mod of the pipe, recommended by Jeff Kleiner I think, to instal 3 #6 button head metal screws at the each end of pipe to give holding power to the clamps prevents the slip off problem. Tightening the clamps after the first couple of heat cycles probably helped.

To answer the OP question about getting the rubber hose over the pipe, heat the rubber with boiling water and put a little dish soap the end of the metal pipe. A little lube helps things slide together.

HTH

Norm

[AC Bill]

I am using the parts that came with the kit for radiator hoses. Lower was a piece of cake. Top i am having trouble. Do these 2 parts work together? I can not get the metal pipe into the rubber tube with the cap. This is the last step before first start. Thanks.

I have not seen that particular plastic T filler used before. Is that what FFR supplies with a complete kit nowadays? How is the rubber ends connected to the T-filler, by a crimp ring?

If you look at the picture Norm posted, you can see the he has three rubber connectors, that were meant to be used with the corrugated stainless hose, and were provided by FFR, for that purpose. These allowed you to connect the hoses at the rad, water pump, or T-filler, to the stainless hose. The nice thing about that system, was the connectors came with various size adapters, that could be used to connect two different size fittings. IE; T-filler to stainless hose, (when a metal T-filler is used) Personally, I'd prefer using a metal one over a plastic one.

Like Norm, I have used the stainless corrugated hoses (for ten years now), with no issues of them ever blowing off, leaking, etc.. Do it right the first time, and check the clamps routinely. There are hundreds of builds driving around with the stainless hoses. You only hear about the odd one that has issues, not the hundreds that don't. Save your money.:)

[Jeff Kleiner]

I am going to be a contrarian. I have run the FFR supplied metal radiator pipes for 6 years with no leaks. The simple mod of the pipe, recommended by Jeff Kleiner I think, to install 3 #6 button head metal screws at the each end of pipe to give holding power to the clamps prevents the slip off problem.
Norm

Yep. Some guys will tell you that the rubber hoses blow off of the corrugated tubing. You can keep that from happening by simply adding three or four 1/4" long stainless steel oval head sheet metal screws around the perimeter to create sort of a bead at the end of the corrugated hose

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_2043-1.jpg

Once the coupler is slipped over and the clamp tightened (plain ol' garden variety screw type) there's no way it's gonna' come off. Speaking of the couplers---silicone the hose bushing/adapter thingies to the inside of the couplers when you use them.

With all that said, those stainless tubes sure are a thing of beauty!

Jeff

[capt1black]

I have not seen that particular plastic T filler used before. Is that what FFR supplies with a complete kit nowadays? How is the rubber ends connected to the T-filler, by a crimp ring?

If you look at the picture Norm posted, you can see the he has three rubber connectors, that were meant to be used with the corrugated stainless hose, and were provided by FFR, for that purpose. These allowed you to connect the hoses at the rad, water pump, or T-filler, to the stainless hose. The nice thing about that system, was the connectors came with various size adapters, that could be used to connect two different size fittings. IE; T-filler to stainless hose, (when a metal T-filler is used) Personally, I'd prefer using a metal one over a plastic one.

Like Norm, I have used the stainless corrugated hoses (for ten years now), with no issues of them ever blowing off, leaking, etc.. Do it right the first time, and check the clamps routinely. There are hundreds of builds driving around with the stainless hoses. You only hear about the odd one that has issues, not the hundreds that don't. Save your money.:)

Yes that is what I got from FFR. Thought it was strange and not what I saw on other builds. I was able to get the tubes in using soapy water but now I guess i have to take it all apart again based on Norm and Jeff’s answers with the screws. Another 1 step forward, one step back, one step forward. As my Dad said today, look at all you are learning. Lol thanks everyone.

[egchewy79]

instead of the SS corrugated tubing, I used the plastic T piece supplied by FFR and some straight and angled silicone tubes that I got from pegasus racing. I made a custom lower radiator tube since my water pump inlet is on the PS rather than the DS (darn pre 1969 engines). I made a template with extra brake line and water heater insulation foam and had a shop mandrel bend the shape for me.

[Kmcallahan]

Yep. Some guys will tell you that the rubber hoses blow off of the corrugated tubing. You can keep that from happening by simply adding three or four 1/4" long stainless steel oval head sheet metal screws around the perimeter to create sort of a bead at the end of the corrugated hose

[IMG]http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_2043-1.jpg[/

Once the coupler is slipped over and the clamp tightened (plain ol' garden variety screw type) there's no way it's gonna' come off. Speaking of the couplers---silicone the hose bushing/adapter thingies to the inside of the couplers when you use them.

With all that said, those stainless tubes sure are a thing of beauty!

Jeff

Thanks for the pic.

[emac]

I tried to use the corrugated hose and didnt like the looks or the fit. I went with fortes Degas tank and the breeze lower pipe. Hard to see in this picture but it just uses simple hoses.

140931

[rich grsc]

I don't like the looks of the corrugated hoses, they look cheap and fugly. I would never open the hood to let anyone see them.:(

[BradCraig]

Yep. Some guys will tell you that the rubber hoses blow off of the corrugated tubing. You can keep that from happening by simply adding three or four 1/4" long stainless steel oval head sheet metal screws around the perimeter to create sort of a bead at the end of the corrugated hose

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_2043-1.jpg

Once the coupler is slipped over and the clamp tightened (plain ol' garden variety screw type) there's no way it's gonna' come off. Speaking of the couplers---silicone the hose bushing/adapter thingies to the inside of the couplers when you use them.

With all that said, those stainless tubes sure are a thing of beauty!

Jeff

Yep, buttonhead screws work like champ!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I don't like the looks of the corrugated hoses, they look cheap and fugly. I would never open the hood to let anyone see them.:(

Well Rich, that's where the underhood stripes come into play...because as a wise man once said "The only reason to have stripes under the hood is if you have a crappy looking engine" ;) ;) ;)

Jeff

[rich grsc]

Well Rich, that's where the underhood stripes come into play...because as a wise man once said "The only reason to have stripes under the hood is if you have a crappy looking engine" ;) ;) ;)

Jeff
Well, now I understand why you refused to stripe the underside of my hood. ;):rolleyes:

[boat737]

Yep. Some guys will tell you that the rubber hoses blow off of the corrugated tubing. You can keep that from happening by simply adding three or four 1/4" long stainless steel oval head sheet metal screws around the perimeter to create sort of a bead at the end of the corrugated hose

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_2043-1.jpg

Once the coupler is slipped over and the clamp tightened (plain ol' garden variety screw type) there's no way it's gonna' come off. Speaking of the couplers---silicone the hose bushing/adapter thingies to the inside of the couplers when you use them.

With all that said, those stainless tubes sure are a thing of beauty!

Jeff

I used stainless rivets.

[phileas_fogg]

I did the same...used rivets.


John

[capt1black]

Another stupid question. The petcok screw does not come completely out. Is the valve closed when it is screwed in or out? Rather not find out after I spill fluid all over. Thanks.

[Papa]

Out is open (counter clockwise turn) if I recall correctly.

[Avalanche325]

Lefty loosey - righty tightey

[egchewy79]

remember to leave the upper radiator petcock open when filling the system to purge air out of the radiator. I kept filling from the T piece until my helper noted some weeping out of this area. then I filled the rest of the intake from the heater hose held up high in the air, like a beer bong, until the coolant came up to the top of the bung for my temp sender in my water neck.

[Avalanche325]

.... like a beer bong, ....

Ah, the international point of reference.

[rich grsc]

Out is closed on petcocks.

[Papa]

Out is closed on petcocks.

Thanks, Rich. I was second guessing my response.

[capt1black]

Out is closed on petcocks.

Thanks, that is what I was thinking but conventional wisdom would be when the screw is screwed in it would be closed. But when I was unscrewing it and it got tight I starting thinking maybe there was some kind of stopper that gets pulled closed.

[richtersand]

Great thread. I’m starting to think about this now that I have my radiator!

How are the coyote guys running the upper hose? Boig has a kit for the coyote lower but nothing for the upper...

[egchewy79]

Ah, the international point of reference.

I like to use terms that everyone understands :)

[JohnMac]

Good morning from from the frozen state of Delaware! And no, I have no idea where Joe Biden is even though he only lives a few miles away!

I noticed your post regarding the supplied parts for radiator hoses. My partner in crime is George Alderman, IMSA champion, SCCA member, car builder, etc. At 88 he’s still going strong and surprised me when he decided to buy a complete but unbuilt gen1 coupe. We started the process back in June and have been going at it in a rather unorthodox, helter-shelter way. Being a kit from 2012 I’ve found FF5 doesn’t have much interest in helping out and the assembly manual isn’t organized in any real logical order. But, getting back to the radiator issue- George didn’t like the ss corrugated radiator hose nor the angle of the angle of the lower radiator outlet neck. So we cut it off and rewelded it. He found a piece of 1.25” aluminum tubing and various hose to make the connection to the water pump and engine, very similar to the Boig Motorsports parts but without all the bends. We attached our filler-cap to a support clamped to the 4” frame which makes for a very solid location when removing the filler cap. I have some photos but they’re too large to post. Happy to send in an email though.
Regards,
Mac Morgan
Hockessin Delaware

[BradCraig]

Great thread. I’m starting to think about this now that I have my radiator!

How are the coyote guys running the upper hose? Boig has a kit for the coyote lower but nothing for the upper...

This is what I used for my Gen3 Coyote, believe its an F150 upper. I got the recommendation from Paul I believe. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TKKU0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1