Opinions on engine plan

[Florida Dave]

My basic build plan is to get the engine ready this year, the transmission and rear axle components next year, and pick up my kit in 2023 and start that. This plan is primarily based on cost and paying cash as I go. Basic firm planned specs are: fuel injected 302,T5, power steering, AC, soft top.

The engine that I am starting with is a 1990 302 HO with about 80,000 miles that ran perfectly fine when it was removed from another member's roadster (thanks, Mark!). I could leave it as is, but what is the fun in that?

I want to install the Edelbrock Pro Flow 4 EFI because I like the classic look but has multi point injection with the ECU able to be located away from the direct engine heat. I have ran several combinations of cams and cylinder heads through computer simulators and they indicate that I can use the stock cam and replace the heads and easily achieve the power range I am looking for: 300+ HP. My intent is a street car that most likely won't ever see a track, driven daily for work and fun cruises whenever I want. I have built several engines before, but never a Ford V8. The stock cam should provide good performance at idle to about 5500 rpm. I can get more HP with different cams but to see the power I want I have to change the cylinder heads. Changing the cylinder heads should produce the desired power without changing the cam.

Has anyone run this or a similar combo?

Thanks,
Dave

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hit the easy button; Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads and their Stage 1 cam. Valves will clear with OEM pistons, it’ll produce 325-350ish HP along with great low RPM torque and will pull strong up to 6,000.

Jeff

[Fman]

I am running Pro Flo 4 on a Dart 427 build. I have limited time with it, maybe 10 heat cycles and about 8 miles on go-kart but so far it has been flawless since my first start. Installation was also not too bad. Edelbrock's customer service has been overall pretty good, they get back to you same day with callback option. The hand held tablet is also very easy to navigate and connects via bluetooth, would definitely recommend ordering it for the extra $100. Aside from entering parameters for the engine the only adjustment I had to make was setting the IAC which overall was pretty easy. I am pretty confident it is only going to get better once I start driving the car.

My air cleaner also cleared hood with the PF4 supplied intake manifold and Gordon Levy motor mounts.

[narly1]

My basic build plan is to get the engine ready this year, the transmission and rear axle components next year, and pick up my kit in 2023 and start that. This plan is primarily based on cost and paying cash as I go. Basic firm planned specs are: fuel injected 302,T5, power steering, AC, soft top.

The engine that I am starting with is a 1990 302 HO with about 80,000 miles that ran perfectly fine when it was removed from another member's roadster (thanks, Mark!). I could leave it as is, but what is the fun in that?

I want to install the Edelbrock Pro Flow 4 EFI because I like the classic look but has multi point injection with the ECU able to be located away from the direct engine heat. I have ran several combinations of cams and cylinder heads through computer simulators and they indicate that I can use the stock cam and replace the heads and easily achieve the power range I am looking for: 300+ HP. My intent is a street car that most likely won't ever see a track, driven daily for work and fun cruises whenever I want. I have built several engines before, but never a Ford V8. The stock cam should provide good performance at idle to about 5500 rpm. I can get more HP with different cams but to see the power I want I have to change the cylinder heads. Changing the cylinder heads should produce the desired power without changing the cam.

Has anyone run this or a similar combo?

Thanks,
Dave

Dave, I'm on pretty much the same track as you, except my '88 302 was a non-HO version that came with an AOD transmission. You can check out my engine build thread for the process/my progress.

Like you I am planning on using the ProFlo4.

Plan is to have the engine paid for and running on the stand well in advance of starting the car build.

Earl

[Florida Dave]

Hey Earl, yours is one of the many many threads that I have read. I appreciate the detail you have gone into documenting your engine build. Are you going to dyno your engine or just stand run it?
Dave

[narly1]

Hey Earl, yours is one of the many many threads that I have read. I appreciate the detail you have gone into documenting your engine build. Are you going to dyno your engine or just stand run it?
Dave

Thanks!

Documenting and learning as I go along has been a blast.

The plan is to use the stand for engine run-in purposes. I want to make sure there are no issues (insert butt pucker here) before it gets put into service. A 1/2 hour long session of open header or manifold running should be epic.

I wonder if my neighbors will still be talking to me afterwards?

I have have a pretty fair estimate of what to expect in terms of performance, about 350 hp. Maybe one day the whole lot will go up onto a chassis dyno, but it's not a priority.

[narly1]

Also check out Richard Holdener's videos on Youtube for test results on just about every 302 head that was ever made.

[CraigS]

I'd bump up your cam slightly. I had an 89 Mustang as a daily driver years ago and the problem w/ the stock cam is you might as well shift at 5000 because the power falls off beyond that. I wouldn't do it for more hp, but to change the engine character some. You will get a bit of hp but getting the engine to feel like it isn't being strangled at >5000 would really be nice. Ford has been selling their letter cams for ages and of course there are many other manufacturers.

[rich grsc]

I'd bump up your cam slightly. I had an 89 Mustang as a daily driver years ago and the problem w/ the stock cam is you might as well shift at 5000 because the power falls off beyond that. I wouldn't do it for more hp, but to change the engine character some. You will get a bit of hp but getting the engine to feel like it isn't being strangled at >5000 would really be nice. Ford has been selling their letter cams for ages and of course there are many other manufacturers.
I agree with jumping up a bit with the cam, try the Stage 2 cam. It's a very good cam, has a great flat torque curve. I would stay away fro the old Ford letter cams, they where good in their time but are outdated now.