Question about Tremec trans top

[ggunter]

I have the TKO 600 Tremec trans. I heard you can take the rear shift tower off and turn it 180 degrees and reinstall to move the shifter forward by a couple inches. Looking at the bolt pattern I see that would work, but is there another rail forward for the shifter stub to go in?

[edwardb]

Nope. It's really that simple and what it's designed to do. Remove the six bolts. Pry it off (can be a little stubborn). Flip it 180 degrees. Ideally clean up the sealant and apply a new layer. Replace the six bolts. There's nothing to do inside. The end of the shifter fits into a ball joint inside. There's one on the shift rail for each position as I recall. Whatever, it will be obvious when you take the shifter off. There's nothing else to do but turn the shifter around.

[nucjd19]

Nope. It's really that simple and what it's designed to do. Remove the six bolts. Pry it off (can be a little stubborn). Flip it 180 degrees. Ideally clean up the sealant and apply a new layer. Replace the six bolts. There's nothing to do inside. The end of the shifter fits into a ball joint inside. There's one on the shift rail for each position as I recall. Whatever, it will be obvious when you take the shifter off. There's nothing else to do but turn the shifter around.

Edward, did you flip yours? Also how is it from a ergonomic perspective? Thanks!

[edwardb]

Edward, did you flip yours? Also how is it from a ergonomic perspective? Thanks!

Yes, I've done it a couple times. There are a number of variables so can't answer your question directly. Like a lot of things also depends on your personal preference. Engines are different. A SBF block puts the shifter about 1" further back than a Coyote. The shift handle you use makes a big difference. I've used the 427 style shifter from **********. It has enough bend to put the shifter in just the right place. But still straight up enough to be front to back versus up and down like the kit shifter.

The picture below is from my #7750 Mk4 Roadster with the rear flipped and the ********** shifter. Was very happy with it. Note in this pic the TKO is in one of the forward position gears (1st, 3rd, etc.) to show it just clears the trans tunnel cross piece. That's not always the case. Guys end up sometimes cutting them. Also note the T-56 is the same. Rear shifter flips around the same. Also based on pictures I've seen of the new TKX, it's also the same.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/.highres/IMG_2426_zps0fc55316.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/f8469dcf-d1a4-4cd5-8ce5-627ad3c5b0f5/p/5eb017a0-4da0-410e-91ba-b828ec5a823f)

[CDXXVII]

I did mine exactly like Edward did his. Remove the 6 bolts and rotate 180 with new sealant. My shifter is the 427 style from ********** which I thing is also in Edwards photo. Places the ball when in first gear even with the steering wheel. Ergonomically is works perfectly for me. Without moving the shifter forward I felt like I might hit the rear firewall with my elbow when shifting. I did not have to cut anything with the TKO600.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140335&d=1563580292

[ggunter]

Thanks for the input, I went on you tube and your right it's easy peazy just flip it.

[nucjd19]

Thanks edwardb and CDX. Just what I needed know! I have the same shifter from ********** and was thinking of swapping the position as I am 6'3" and the seat is going to be back as far as possible and I was worrying about banging my elbow into the back of the firewall when shifting.

[Vspeeds]

I rotated mine 180 degrees also. However, I'm using the Pro 5.0 short shifter and in certain gear positions the arm was just hitting the black square frame member. So I decided to notch the frame member.

Sorry but I just realized that I never took a photo of that notch that I made on the square frame tube. I know that after cutting the tube I used POR15 on the exposed metal surface.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96602&d=1540880958

[Cutter 54]

Full disclosure: I am early in the FFR journay; awaiting arrival of my Mk 4 complete kit, my first car build and doing ground work; SO.
what about the idea of using a more forward location on the transmission to move the shifter forward? If I understand Johnny McDevitt on this question, it is because the tunnel framing is in the way. Paul B's photo seems to show that. In an ideal world, it would make sense to use the middle position to place the shifter more forward. Am I missing something, or is this a "Capt Obvious"?

[ggunter]

You can use any option for the shifter, however turning the rear shift tower around is the cheapest. 0$. The forward locations may require cutting the cross tubing and of course buying a new shift tower... unless your trans has one already.

[edwardb]

Full disclosure: I am early in the FFR journay; awaiting arrival of my Mk 4 complete kit, my first car build and doing ground work; SO.
what about the idea of using a more forward location on the transmission to move the shifter forward? If I understand Johnny McDevitt on this question, it is because the tunnel framing is in the way. Paul B's photo seems to show that. In an ideal world, it would make sense to use the middle position to place the shifter more forward. Am I missing something, or is this a "Capt Obvious"?


You can use any option for the shifter, however turning the rear shift tower around is the cheapest. 0$. The forward locations may require cutting the cross tubing and of course buying a new shift tower... unless your trans has one already.

Just to confirm, the middle location (commonly called "mid-shift") and front location (haven't ever seen on our builds) require a kit from Tremec to use. The case has to be opened and parts changed. I don't have any personal experience, other than I've read not too difficult but probably best left to your Tremec professional. https://www.tremec.com/anexos/Mid-Shift%20Conversion%20Kit.pdf

[CP82AERO]

I love your toggle switches and knobs. Where did you get them?

[Al_C]

For what it's worth, I have a different perspective on why you should do the rotation on the rear shift location. I did the mid-shift. It required the talked-about changes to the transmission, and it interfered with the frame cross-brace. I went through all this because I thought the shifter would be in a more natural position for my right arm. While it is, there is one downside: If I'm not careful, I will slam my knuckles into the dashboard shifting into third gear.

Make the change you are asking about and you won't have to worry about your knuckles. ;)

[D Stand]

167640Here is my TKO with a Pro 5.0 shifter and the tube cut and patched back in. Engine is a 427W and the shifter was just barely touching this cross bar without notching.

[nucjd19]

For what it's worth, I have a different perspective on why you should do the rotation on the rear shift location. I did the mid-shift. It required the talked-about changes to the transmission, and it interfered with the frame cross-brace. I went through all this because I thought the shifter would be in a more natural position for my right arm. While it is, there is one downside: If I'm not careful, I will slam my knuckles into the dashboard shifting into third gear.

Make the change you are asking about and you won't have to worry about your knuckles. ;)

Great point. I flipped mine like Edward did and the shifting position is perfect. I could totally see hitting the dash going into 3rd now if I moved to the mid shift position.